#Tall Ship Model Kits

[naturecoastroger-blog]

Wooden Model Ships

Find custom made and handcrafted wooden model ships from the exclusive range of tall sailing ships from Naturecoast.com. It features variety of model ships to choose from. And above all you will get the top quality and with a discounted price.

 For more information: Mail id- rjeya@utsca.com, Contact Number- 866-865-7900, http://www.naturecoast.com/, Address- 822 N A1A Highway, Suite 310 Ponte Vedra Beach, FL 32082, USA.

[lunarlegend]

anyway, it's a nice time to have an Ignis pillow

Ignis would never hurt anyone, i've said this before but he's the perfect example of how a man can be kind, gentle, and compassionate while still being strong and masculine

i think i ranted about it in one of my essays after i read all that homophobic yaoi doujinshi that didn't know how to characterize Ignis in a relationship with Gladio unless they were pretending he was a woman (one author even admitted to it, which is why i was so pissed)

anyway

that's one of the reasons i can't stand when people misgender Ignis or refer to him as Gladio's 'wife', etc., even as a joke

because you can be a man and still be kind and understanding?? you can be a man and still cook and clean and sew, i promise it's not going to revoke your masculinity

aside from the glaring homophobia when it comes to ships, that's why it bothers me so much to see that

basically saying Ignis can't also be masculine if he does things a woman 'should' do, or even -gasp- expresses concern for other people

which is obviously bullshit

like we have a character who is canonically male and who also canonically does all of these things. and people can't believe it, it has to become a meme or something

instead of just acknowledging him as he is, which ironically the other characters already do

Ignis is a role model for men, and i'm not kidding. i mean Gladio is too, all four of them are in their own ways, but Ignis specifically is tall and intimidating and wears a nice suit and could absolutely kick your ass, but then you realize he's actually very soft-spoken and empathetic and would be happy to take care of you. not only that, but he is extremely well-respected by everyone around him, and relied upon by his friends for pretty much everything.

you know that old joke post making fun of so-called 'alpha' males and it's like 'loud aggressive guys think they're the alphas, but alphas take care of their pack. the alpha is the one who remembered to bring a first aid kit and snacks.'

yeah.

[moonsinkfoxgirl]

hi! i remember you once talked about being into gunpla and as a new gundam appreciator i have been thinking of buying a couple of kits but it all seems so intimidating? i dont really get the “grades” and idk if i should have some tools at home already or if i can just order the kit without needing extra tools? also im in europe too and i thought they would be super expensive but i found them for like €10 so im worried i am on a scammy website and idk how to tell 😭 (the website i found is called hlj.com btw idk). anyway sorry this is a lot i just feel very lost and intimidated maybe you have some advice on how to get started?

Uhhh.. as of right now I do not own a single gunpla yet. I ordered a couple but unfortunately I'm still waiting. In any case, I'll gladly answer your questions as far as I can:

Hobby Link Japan is legit, the reason the gunpla are cheap is that the company isn't based in Europe meaning you'll be the one to pay the import tax, so an HG model is around 10 euros; as opposed to e.g. if you buy from riseofgunpla.com, which is a french site, then you pay ~10 bucks extra but you will not have to worry about the shipping company charging you taxes plus a fee because they paid the taxes for you. I still think hlj comes out cheaper in total, but I'm not sure.

As for the grades, you probably want to start out with HG, which stands for High Grade, which is basically the standard tier: 1/144 scale (so ~13 cm tall, though of course the exact size depends on the exact model), and they cost around 1500 Yen (plus minus some depending on the exact model), which comes out at ~10 euros, plus whatever cut your international/european store wants to make their little profit on top.

Then there's:

SD (Super Deformed) which is for like chibi style ones with huge heads, they're also relatively cheap iirc.

RG (Real Grade) also 1/144, but more realistic and more expensive

MG (Master Grade) 1/100, which are bigger ~19cm, and cost ~double I think?

FM (Full Mechanics) also 1/100 but maybe slightly cheaper? and only for specific Gundam shows? I'm not sure tbh, they're not on the same list as I get my info from

PG (Perfect Grade) 1/60, ~30cm sized ones where you get to pay money in the triple digits

As for tools I heard you want a side cutter (ideally one made for modeling), some kind of box cutter or otherwise sharp knife (ideally one for modelling), and a pair of tweezers (for stickers). And maybe some fine sand paper, or files made for modeling. You can probably get that kind of stuff from any local shop that sells model kits (whether they sell gunpla or not). Or I think there's complete tool sets for that kind of stuff on amazon. I'm probably just gonna see if I can raid my dad's model train toolbox.

[craftcompare]

Occre 1/100 Scale Amerigo Vespucci Model Kit

Occre Amerigo Vespucci 1:100 Model Ship Kit Specifications: Scale: 1:100 Length: 980mm Height: 560mm Width: 304mm The Amerigo Vespucci is a tall ship ... http://dlvr.it/T5kpwz

[noseliiroa]

wooden model kits are available for you to enjoy the process of building the model.

[woodenmodelkits]

Crafting History: Expert Tips for Building Exquisite Wooden Ships

Wooden ship building has a deep tradition and heritage that dates back to the long years of sailing in the seas. The evolution of the ship design and construction techniques give enthusiasts a greater appreciation for the history and craftsmanship that went into building wooden ships. Unveiling the tapestry of remarkable vessels, majestic tall ships to agile schooners, gives inspiration and respect for this enduring artistry. Constructing miniature ships is an exciting and a satisfying process that involves talent, accuracy among others as well as historical knowledge. This in-depth guide will provide you with all the important tips and tricks needed to develop impeccable models of maritime history.

Selecting the Right Model Ship Kit

Understanding the Components

Attention to detail

Finishing Techniques

Rigging and Detailing

Historical Accuracy

Patience and Perseverance

Attention to Scale and Proportion

Incorporating Innovative Techniques

Community and Resources

Showcasing Your Work

Selecting the Right Model Ship Kit

Selecting an ideal model ship kit is very critical when starting your wooden-ship building expedition. Evaluate the level of detail, scale and also historical fidelity of the model ship kits. You can also try and start off with smaller wooden ships so that you can get used to the process before stepping into larger projects. Selecting good quality miniature ships that suit your knowledge and interests is very important. Initially building these ships might seem a bit tricky but it is surely a great experience.

Understanding the Components

Get acquainted with the constituents of the kit that include wood, rigging and also metal fittings. Understand the instructions and the diagram carefully to determine what parts connect in which way. Spending some time on getting well acquainted with all the details of the kit will create a perfect premise for an easier and much more enjoyable assembling process, which would also introduce you to the delicate intricacies within each element that makes this building experience highly rewarding.

Attention to detail

When constructing the wooden ship, details are very much important. Be methodical as you make sure that every single piece is perfectly in place, with the right adhesives and also the necessary tools. Consider the complexity of the miniature ships, and carefully check how aligned their parts are. By scrupulously focusing on such minor details, you’ll not only improve the visual design of your model ship kits but will also create a higher appreciation for craftsmanship and precision that goes into wooden ships-building.

Finishing Techniques

After the basic construction is completed, pay much attention to the details. Sanding, staining and varnishing the wood surfaces can help improve the visibility of the wooden ships so that the original look comes out naturally which adds to it an aura of authenticity. Moreover, the careful painting of the details including the hull, deck and especially intricate ornaments will make your model ship kits alluring as well as historically authentic. These last steps should be done with sincerity and accuracy, which will not only enhance the aesthetic appeal of your creation but also develop an admiration within you for creating the wooden ships.

Rigging and Detailing

The rigging of wooden ships is so very characteristic that it needs lots of skill and perseverance. Look into the past references and drawings to ensure that the appropriate reproduction of rigging detail is done. Use some fine strings and delicate tools in order to produce a very realistic rigging. Researching historical rigging techniques and incorporating them into your miniature ships will not only make it more authentic, but also reflect the passion of seafaring history. Through the detailing of rigging, your model ship can become a living organism full of maritime skills and also a tale from history.

Historical Accuracy

For enthusiasts who are also concerned with historical accuracy, you can research the time period and nature of the wooden ships that you would like to replicate. Focus on the detailed design, colors and also insignia that one could expect to see in your model ship at this time. By exploring the historical background and the details of the miniature ships, you can open new horizons for your personal understanding. Your model ship built on historical accuracy, makes your model ship kit an effective tangible link to a splendid and unforgettable maritime history.

Patience and Perseverance

Wooden ships, especially model boats are a labor of love by which one has to have immense patience and determination. Accept the process and be patient enough to perfect your techniques, then learn from blunders, and also enjoy the act of creating an art piece. Every step in the construction process provides you with many new tools for your growth and mastery, from the application of knowledge about different materials to enhancement of skills. You will not only connect to the ship building but also gain a sense of achievement as you see your hard work and skills transform into the stunning details of your model.

Attention to Scale and Proportion

It is very important to ensure that the model has the right scale and proportion of wooden ships for precision and also aesthetic beauty. Make certain that every part, from the hull to even a small detail fits into an appropriate scale thereby producing a scaled replica of an authentic ship. Paying great heed to the scale not only allows for an accurate depiction of the ship but also displays your dedication towards accuracy and art. If you maintain the scale integrity from start to finish, your model ship kits will be utterly fascinating in its appearance of exact size - a scale that calls admirers into captive wonderment over the details and also historical accuracy achieved in this incredible piece.

Incorporating Innovative Techniques

Research the possibilities of incorporating laser-cut wooden parts, 3D printing for detailed elements and also advanced painting methodologies to increase craftsman level in your miniature ships. Using such technological developments increases the breadth of your creative horizons and also ensures a higher level of accuracy and complexity when replicating historical ship details. By applying these modern technologies and methods to your craftsmanship, you can create a perfect blend of classical artistry with the innovative technology.

Community and Resources

Participate in the lively community of model ship builders to share your ideas, solicit advice and get some inspirational tips for your projects. Find online forums, workshops and also model ship building clubs to interact with other enthusiasts about this timeless hobby. Through such a communal exchange of insights and experiences, one is bound to gain not only from the collective wisdom but also get connected with the individuals who share your passion. With such a collaborative setting, your wooden ships building adventure becomes an excellent opportunity for development in terms of learning and creativity as well as sharing.

Showcasing Your Work

A testimony of your commitment and skill is the collection of finished model ship kits. Take part in the model ship displays, post your artwork on various social media networks and also build a legacy with the concept of wooden ships by motivating others with it. With your expertise and passion, you motivate a new generation of model ship builders while also keeping the interest in this art form alive. Your participation in the exhibitions and also online platforms does not only represent your commitment, but also makes an eternal mark on the thick motley patchwork of maritime craftsmanship devoted to wooden ship models.

Crafting wooden ships is an incredibly satisfying and alluring activity. Indulging in the hobby of model ship construction allows you to improve your artistry and acquire invaluable knowledge, ultimately producing exquisite miniature ships that eloquently capture the spirit of nautical history. Through commitment and the deft use of tried-and-true techniques, you can go on a creative expression and historical appreciation journey. In the end, you will refine your skills to create outstanding models that serve as examples of your enthusiasm and knowledge in the fascinating field of model ship building.

[grayysanwestey]

wooden model kits are available for you to enjoy the process of building the model.

[anitagaikwad]

wooden model kits are available for you to enjoy the process of building the model.

[pretta12000]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Lego Sunflowers, 2 Sunflowers in a Box, Lego 40524.

[historicships-blog]

Welcome to Historic Ships, here you will discover an amazing selection of excellent quality Wooden Model Ships.  Our Wooden Model Ships are high in quality and are available in a variety of shades in large quantity too. Just order these Model Ships online at www.historicships.com.

 For more information: Mail id- rjeya@utsca.com, Contact Number- 866-865-7900, http://www.historicships.com/, Address- 822 N A1A Highway, Suite 310 Ponte Vedra Beach, FL 32082, USA.

[pitter-patter-esikars]

forget drawing it, Pillars REAL

holy shit

[naturecoastroger-blog]

Find custom made and handcrafted wooden model ships from the exclusive range of tall sailing ships from Naturecoast.com. It features variety of model ships to choose from. And above all you will get the top quality and with a discounted price.

 For more information: Mail id- rjeya@utsca.com, Contact Number- 866-865-7900, http://www.naturecoast.com/, Address- 822 N A1A Highway, Suite 310 Ponte Vedra Beach, FL 32082, USA.

[doll-collecting-aerialist]

Make Addy’s House With Me!!

So.. I made Addy a house. More like a room, but same difference. While this house isn’t completely modeled on Addy’s main house in her books (the house owned and managed by the Golden’s), as I wanted to use this as a photography set some of my other dolls (Kirsten, Kit), it still models after what a house could of looked like.

And because I like to talk, I will give you a not so concise tutorial on how I made this set. This project took about ten days. Sorry for no “keep reading,” I’m on mobile.

You’ll Need:

Thick Cardboard (I used three big boxes that were used to ship dolls)

A cereal box (or a similar weight of card board)

Card stock. I used an entire stack in the printing of all the different wood pieces. Printer paper tends to wrinkle and tear, it’s not ideal for making a photo set that you’ll eventually be putting doll furniture on.

Acrylic paint. I used two dark browns and a reddish brown.

Modge Podge. I used a matte all purpose modge podge and then a glossy paper modge podge. I definitely recommend using matte all purpose, it was much easier to work with and well.. not annoyingly shiny. I ended up using two full bottles, so you will need a lot.

Tacky glue. Make sure it dries CLEAR.

Two clear sheet protectors.

Duck tape. Or weird, off brand washi tape that your weird slavic grandma gave you.

Yarn.

A good pair of scissors. Or a craft knife if you’re fancy.

A sharp pencil to poke holes in things.

A color printer (or you can go to the store and buy paper that looks like wood, but that can get expensive)

Free stock photos and/or digital download scrap book papers. I got the floor of my set from as a digital download from an Etsy seller, and everything else was a free stock photo.

Paint brushes. You’ll need a large one for modge podge, and a couple smaller ones for the paint. Make sure you don’t like the large paint brush because it will get ruined. Even if you wash it.

A ruler.

A dark permanent marker

Something sharp to poke a hole into the tacky glue lid. And keep poking a hole in it because it WILL glue itself shut.

First off, you need the walls and floor, or else you will have no house. Unless you have really large boxes and are able to cut an entire wall from one card board piece, you will need to duck tape a couple pieces of cardboard together in order to make a wall. You’ll need two side walls, a floor and a back wall. I didn’t take measurements of my walls and floor because I was generally just trying to work with what cardboard I had.

Double check and make sure your walls are tall enough for your AG, preferably a couple inches higher. If you’re planning to put specific furniture into your set, make sure it fits in comfortably!! I checked the floor space with an AG bed I had on hand.

Make sure the walls are sturdy. I promise that you’re wasting less ducktape by wrapping it around a couple times, then you would be if you needed to fix your set everytime you wanted to use it. Make sure you can move it, and walk past it without it coming undone and dying.

One of my favorite things about my set is that I made it so it can fold in on itself. I do not have a lot of space for sets, so the fact that I can fold it up when I’m done is great (not to mention means that I can have more than one set). Now that you have your walls, it’s time to poke some holes with your sharp pencil.

This is me attaching the floor and the back wall. I marked out how many inches across the two pieces of cardboard were, and then from that I decided where to poke my holes. You can eyeball this, but that makes me anxious. Don’t poke your holes to close to the edge, or else the cardboard might rip (not fun). You’ll want to do the same with your two side walls, although you will be attaching the side walls to the back wall, not the floor.

After you poke all your holes, you’ll want to string the walls together with yarn or twine. Make sure it’s tight enough that the walls stand on their own without flopping, but loose enough so that it doesn’t tear the cardboard, and you can fold it up with ease. I left a generous amount of string left with each “hinge” in case I ever need to tinker with it, and I just tied each “hinge” with a double knotted bow.

Thus began my long relationship with modge podge. You’ll need to modge podge the wallpaper and flooring to the card board, which is very time consuming and boring, so make sure you have something to watch. Be sure what you’re using is of a heavier weight than printer paper, or it will wrinkle. And tear. And then you will cry. Don’t be overly concerned with white spots, or small places where the cardboard shows, because you can go over those later with paint.

**BE SURE YOUR PATTERNS LINE UP OR YOU WILL CRY**

Wow!! The modge podge is done!! That only took a week!! As you can see, I added some texture and touched things up with paint. (The popsicle sticks are not supposed to be there, long story)

Now for my other favorite part, the windows.

I wanted to be able to change the scene in my windows, so I used clear sheet protectors!! I cut it to be roughly 9in x 9in. Make sure you don’t accidentally glue the sheet protectors shut. That wouldn’t be fun. I made the window frame out of singular wood planks from the photo I used for the floor, and I glued each one to thick cardboard.

You’ll want to tacky glue the window frame together, and then to the wall. BE SURE NOT TO GLUE THE WINDOW SHUT WHILE DOING THIS!!!

For the background, I just found a scene on Google and glued to to a cereal box weight cardboard, before sliding it into the sheet protector.

That should lead you to having a really cool house for your dolls!! I can’t wait to fill this one with furniture. For reading (or scrolling past this long post) have a picture of my cat interfering:

[hacash]

If you’re still taking them, Tom O’Brien for the (Himbo) Headcanons, hashtag when is this boy’s butt gonna heal

@ignoramace is this you continuing to lead the Tom O'Brien renaissance? :P

Tom O'Brien

Sexuality Headcanon: gay, in a long-term relationship with that dark-haired player with the designer stubble whose name I believe is Tyler Shannon (as evidenced here and here) Gender Headcanon: nb, his attitude to gender is like that post about 'people thinking you work at target because you wear a red shirt and you don't but I'll just go along with it because whatever'. A ship I have with said character: Aforementioned Tom/Tyler. A BROTP I have with said character: Tom & Thierry: they joke about hooking up because they're the only two players tall enough for each other on the team. Plus goalie solidarity bb. A NOTP I have with said character: None that I can think of! A random headcanon: Big on uncool hobbies which might have had him socially ostracised at school, were it not for his sporting prowess - model kits, lego sets, watercolours, that sort of thing. Tyler jokes that the only reason they haven't moved in together yet is Tom's ridiculous collection of various paraphernalia (though he still instagrams the shit out of it whenever Tom finishes a big project.) General Opinion over said character: pray for his torn butt #2021

send me a character and i’ll share my headcanons!

[craftcompare]

Occre 1/100 Scale Amerigo Vespucci Model Kit

Occre Amerigo Vespucci 1:100 Model Ship Kit Specifications: Scale: 1:100 Length: 980mm Height: 560mm Width: 304mm The Amerigo Vespucci is a tall ship ... http://dlvr.it/T5ShyN

[okayto]

Murderbot Reference: Character Descriptions Part 3

Fandom reference! I tried to note every time a person/thing got a physical description, as well as additional info like how augments work, etc. Please note that there may be spoilers for all five books, but especially Network Effect.

This post contains:

Murderbot, Body

Murderbot, Armor

Murderbot, Outfits

Corporation Rim Work Clothes + Business Attire

Safety Suits/Environmental Suits

EVAC Suits

Other posts: Part 1; Part 2

Murderbot, Body

·        No sex-related parts at all. Skin gets regenerated by cubicle or MedSystem fairly frequently. Organic and inorganic parts meet on arms, legs, chest and back. Until altered by ART, has no hair except top of head and eyebrows. SecUnit code normally keeps hair short to avoid interfering with armor.

·         Post-ART, eyebrows get a little thicker, grows fine body hair that hopefully make the organic/inorganic meeting areas look more human-natural. Head hair grows a few centimeters and “I could feel it, and it was weird.” ART also altered the way its skin met edges of inorganic parts, so they look more like augments. It grows its hair an additional 2 centimeters (~1 inch) in ES as more human camouflage.

·         Probably taller than most most humans: definitely taller than Mensah, Amena,Tapan, and multiple humans who were eyeing Tapan in the hall of their motel-thing. Grips Ratthi’s and Gurathin’s shoulders in ES after knee damage in order not to fall, which means it doesn’t have to reach up to their shoulders. Plus, was created to be able to carry humans.

·         Can peel back the skin around its shoulder joint to stick in an ID tag. It hurt, but no bleeding/leaking.

·         Skin in right arm can be peeled back where it meets the edge of energy weapon, and MB can store memory clips (fingertip-size) there. It feels weird and bulky. Inorganic parts around arm weapon port might look like augment designed to correct injury, but weapon port looks like weapon port.

·         Skin on fingers is very sensitive.

·         Knee is inorganic joint with skin right above; in ES injury that affects knee too close to inorganic joint for wound sealant to work. Feet have no organic parts and don’t look like medical augments for injured humans.

·         Dataport in back of neck can be hidden with shirt/jacket collars. Looks similar to interfaces of some augmented humans.

·         At least some inorganic parts have the company logo etched in.

·         Has a compartment under its ribs where it can store ART’s comm

·         Looks more human after ART’s change and most humans haven’t seen SecUnits before, but those who have are often still able to identify it as a SecUnit.

Murderbot, Armor

·         During contracts, stays in armor full-time unless damaged. Armor completely hides body. Comes in pieces; during ASR it has an alternate set it can pull out, but first would have to do diagnostics and fitting. Faceplate can be opaque or clear, and can also be retracted. Almost always kept helmet opaque and consequently is very bad at controlling its expression.

·         After killing GrayCris SecUnit, it and Mensah swap out key/identifiable pieces: arm and shoulder pieces on both sides, leg pieces that have the armor’s inventory code, chest and back piece with logos. Other pieces they don’t swap.

·         Skin suit goes on under armor.

 Murderbot, Outfits

·         ASR, patrolling non-uniform: Based on standard research group’s uniform, meant to be comfortable inside habitat: knit gray pants, long-sleeved T-shirt and jacket, like exercise clothes, plus soft shoes.

·         ASR, after repair and Mensah purchase: uniform, pants, long-sleeved T-shirt and jacket that cover all inorganic parts, with possible exception of neck dataport.

·         Stolen clothes after running away: Gray and black work clothes, long-sleeved T-shirt and jacket, pants and boots, stolen knapsack. Dataport visible, but looks like augmented interface.

·         ART’s crew uniform without logos: pants with lots of sealable pockets, long-sleeved T-shirt with a collar high enough to conceal dataport, soft hooded jacket, all in dark blue or black. Clothes get damaged with shrapnel in RP, but holes not very visible due to dark colors after cleaning.

·         Shop in ES: likes idea of long skirts, wide pants, full-length caftans, tunics and jackets that go to the knees. Likes idea of wearing them all. Chooses self-sizing workboots with shielding to protect against heavy things dropping, pants with lots of sealable pockets, long-sleeved shirt with a collar to cover dataport, and soft hooded jacket, in arrangement of black and dark blue. Also gets new knapsack with more sealable pockets.

·         In NE, once ship enters wormhole it changes into clothes it likes: human work boots, pants with lots of pockets, T-shirt, soft jacket, all in dark colors with no logos. Under jacket also is deflection vest from Station Security to add some protection against inert blades, slow projectiles, fire acidic gas, low energy pulses, etc.

·         Later wears ART’s crew uniform and logo doesn’t bother it “as much as usual.”

 Corporation Rim Work Clothes + Business Attire

·         Some miners wore coveralls and jackets with logos from various installation

·         Hired thugs in AC wore jackets and pants with deep side pockets big enough to conceal weapons or batons.

·         Most things MB wears are variations on generic human work clothes

·         The GrayCris rep in ES (a tall pale human with light-colored hair) wears “one of the many local variations” of business attire: a dark long-sleeved jacket that went to the knees, over wide pants.

 Safety Suits/Environmental Suits

·         In RP: Abene’s group wears “full suits” for safety protocol, include filtering, emergency air supply, and some protection for vulnerable human bodies. Abene’s includes a helmet with an emergency release tab at its bottom, on Abene’s neck. Once the tab is broken, the helmet won’t stay on. Abene’s group’s suits include pinlights visible in the dark. Abene wears a harness over hers that includes an emergency kit.

·         Environmental suits from ART: material feels thin but protects against a lot of toxic substances, has a closed breathing system attached. Fits under an EVAC suit.

 EVAC Suits

·         Kept in lockers. A full suit includes maneuvering jets, and has air supply. Has room for MB to stuff its small knapsack under its jacket before putting on EVAC suit.

·         Models in NE the lab module are slightly different, “more expensive”, where person can step in and pull it up with an assist from the suit’s own power supply. Amena has to tie up her hair when putting it on.