#Spring 2014 Haute Couture

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schiaparelli spring 2022 couture

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Zuhair Murad Haute Couture Spring 2014

[judith-orshalimian]

A Detail Of A Decomposing Moth Wing at Yiqing Yin Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014!

[zegalba]

Sheguang Hu Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014

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Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014

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Claude Montana, "Dream Maker"

(29 June 1947 – 23 February 2024)

Claude Montana began his career in London with a jewelry line that was instantly noticed by the professional press. When he returned to Paris in the late 60s, he joined John Voigt's team at Mac Douglas, where he learned leatherwork, which he would later democratize through his own collections.

In 1975, he presented his first fashion show, to international acclaim. He launched his own House in 1979, assisted by his sister Jacqueline, and joined the Official Calendar of Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall-Winter 1981/1992, in April 1981. In 1989, he became artistic director of Lanvin, where he successfully experimented with Haute Couture.

During his time there, he was awarded two Dés d'or for the Autumn-Winter 1990-1991 and Spring-Summer 1991 collections.

After leaving Lanvin, he launches a new ready-to-wear line, Odyssée. Claude Montana was promoted to Commandeur dans l'Ordre des Arts et Lettres in July 2014.

Claude Montana leaves an indelible legacy in the fashion industry, his singular style still inspiring many contemporary designers.

With his unique vision and boundless approach he created his own vocabulary of fashion that continues to live on today; inspiring contemporary designers such as Alexander McQueen – who cited Montana in many of his collections – and most recently Montana’s influences can be seen in the sumptuous proportions of Tom Ford’s debut women’s wear collection.

As power dressing makes a return to the catwalk, it is Montana’s 1980s designs that create the basis for Stella McCartney’s autumn/winter 2011 voluminous silhouette, Balmain’s pointed and padded shoulders and Martin Margiela’s exaggerated angles.

Your work will forever be timeless and legendary.

Rest In Power !

[bejustlikethem]

Amal Clooney

Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Spring 2014 Dress

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Dita Von Teese wearing the Jean Paul Gaultier butterfly corset

Paris Fashion Week, JPG Spring Summer Haute Couture Collection 2014

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Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2014

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diversity on the catwalk

fashion creatives are embracing inclusivity and body positivity, exploring themes such as size, gender, age, race, and disability.

Precious Lee, Ashley Graham, Paloma Elsesser

The fashion industry is constantly improving and evolving, we are starting to see more culture and diversity through ought each season.

In July 2020, Gucci launched its new genderless shopping category on its website called ‘Gucci MX’ using only gender neutral models to showcase the pieces.

Brands such as Simone Rocha, Rachel Comey and Vivienna Westwood are starting to include many more older models to showcase their work this is making the fashion world more diverse and as the seasons go on their seems to be more inclusivity each time.

AlexandraKutas

Hailing from Ukraine, Alexandra Kutas claimed the title of the world’s first runway model in a wheelchair as well as Ukraine’s first fashion model with a disability. Alexandra modelled on the runway during Ukraine Fashion Week in 2015 and a couple of months later unveiled a photography exhibition called “Break Your Chains” alongside photographer Andrei Sarymsakov in an effort to break down society’s stereotypes and negative perceptions of people with disabilities.

Kelly Knox for Grazia 2018

Greater diversity within the fashion community opened up a space to celebrate all beauty and gave a platform for people with disabilities to be more visible. As a result we are seeing more people with disabilities making appearances on runways, on the cover of magazines, in fashion ads and beauty campaigns.

Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture spring/summer 1998

among the roster of major designers Jean Paul Gaultier is notable for his concerted adoption and celebration of queer aesthetics from placing men in skirts in 1985 to repeatedly drawing on the homoerotic motif of the Genet-esque muscly. Over the years he has had many collaborations and with friend and muse Tanel Bedrossiantz to various striking ends. In his spring summer 1998 Age of Enlightenment influenced couture show, Bedrossiantz apps rated in a tightly corseted ruffled gown over a white shirt and tie an image so iconic it was included in the catalogue for vogues 2019 camp.

Somali-American model, Halima Aden 2017

Halim Aden was the first Muslim woman to wear a hijab on the international high fashion catwalk at the Max Mara show held in Milan on 23rd February 2017.

Madeline Stuart is a 20-year-old model with Down syndrome from Brisbane, Australia. Madeline has walked in Art Hearts Fashion Week, Mercedes Benz Fashion Week China, Style Fashion Week, Melange Fashion Week, Runway Dubai, Sunshine Coast Fashion Festival, and Birmingham Fashion Week. She has appeared in Vogue, Teen Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Woman’s Day, Women’s Weekly, Elle, New York Times, People, Marie Claire, Huffington Post, and many more. She was also named Model of the Year in 2016.

Nina Marker famous model with autism

Nina Marker was scouted at a McDonald’s in 2014 and was quickly snatched up by Elite Model Management. She has walked the runway for Chanel, Dior, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Valentino, Givenchy, Fendi, and Versace, among many others. Nina is an advocate for the Autistic community, as she herself has Asperger’s. She has talked openly about being treated differently when she was young and the depression she experienced following that; she is passionate about creating awareness for Autism and wants to show people that Autistic people can do anything they want to do.

Harvard Referencing:

Shutterstock (2020). Unforgettable Photographic Moments: 2020’s ‘Big Four’ Fashion Weeks. [online] The Shutterstock Blog. Available at: https://www.shutterstock.com/blog/big-four-fashion-weeks [Accessed 28 May 2023].

Mcloughlin, L. (2017). Ashley Graham shows off curvy figure in clinging latex mini dress. [online] Mail Online. Available at: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-4871728/Ashley-Graham-shows-curvy-figure-latex-mini-dress.html [Accessed 28 May 2023].

Brain, E. (2020). Gucci Mx Line Explores Gender Fluidity Within Fashion. [online] HYPEBEAST. Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2020/7/gucci-mx-non-binary-gender-fluid-collection-fall-winter-2020-jackie-1961-bag-lookbook.

Tsui, D. (2019). Finally, Some Age Diversity on the Runway. [online] The Cut. Available at: https://www.thecut.com/2019/02/older-models-of-all-ages-were-on-the-runway-at-fashion-week.html.

Managment, M. (2018). | MiLK Model Management. [online] www.milkmanagement.co.uk. Available at: https://www.milkmanagement.co.uk/women/women/1152-kelly-knox/ [Accessed 28 May 2023].

The Photo Studio. (2018). 20 Disabled Models And How They Got Their Starts. [online] Available at: https://thephotostudio.com.au/all/modelling/20-disabled-models-and-how-they-got-their-starts/. [Accessed 7th June 2023]

Stuart , M. (2015). Madeline Stuart NYFW 1st catwalk appearance with my Jellyfish men. [online] www.youtube.com. Available at: https://youtu.be/n9PMB9y9xAc [Accessed 7 Jun. 2023].

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[dollyprescriptions]

—-Lagoona (Monsters Ball)

——Lagoona is definitely always serving some type of 80s prom moment.

———The dress is not for everyone but I think if you take a look a past dolls from lagoona and she’s sporty but has a love for vintage. So the dress reminds me of multiple designers @betseyjohnson Spring 2012 Rtw| @betseyjohnson Fall 2011 Rtw| @betseyjohnson Spring 2010 rtw| Javier Haute Couture 1982! | @alexandermcqueen Spring 2010 rtw. From the ruffles and colors. The trims and shape fits perfect for lagoona.

———The shoes have a @miumiu Spring 2017 rtw , these are monster high shoes perfectly.

—————The tentacle necklace reminds me of @preenbythorntonbregazzi (London fall 2020)

———————Last but not least, the giant Ariel flower in her hair reminds me of the butterfly in the @jeanpaulgaultier spring couture 2014.

[disarmarchive]

Is Balenciaga a Social Experiment?

Balenciaga is a recognisable name, and a brand that recently has been the centre of many controversies. Even before that however, Balenciaga has been, and continues to be, publicly criticised, ever since the introduction of Demna Gvasalia as creative director. Their abstract designs, along with a hiked-up price tag, create a lot of buzz within the fashion realm. Before I begin to discuss Demna-era Balenciaga however, I believe it is important to know a brief history of the brand, and a brief history of Demna himself.

Balenciaga is a luxury fashion house founded by Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga in 1919. The brand quickly gained recognition for its innovative designs and unique approach to silhouette and structure. Throughout the 1950s and 60s, Balenciaga was known as a leader in the world of haute couture and was favoured by high society women and royalty. In 1968, Balenciaga closed its doors due to the death of its founder and changing fashion trends, but the brand was later resurrected in 1986, but struggled to regain its former glory. However, since the brand appointed Demna Gvasalia as creative director in 2015, it has once again solidified itself as a prominent luxury fashion house.

Demna Gvasalia is a Georgian fashion designer and creative director, born in 1981. He grew up in the Republic of Georgia and later moved to Germany to study at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium. The Royal Academy of Fine Arts is a prestigious school that has produced many notable names such as Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester and Dries van Noten (members of the group the Antwerp Six).  After completing his studies, he worked as a designer at various fashion houses, including Maison Martin Margiela, Louis Vuitton, and his own brand, Vetements. In 2014, Demna co-founded the avant-garde fashion label Vetements, which quickly gained recognition for its unconventional designs and streetwear inspired aesthetic. Under Demna's creative direction, Vetements became known for its oversized silhouettes, bold graphics, and deconstructed pieces that challenged traditional fashion norms.

The belief that Balenicaga’s recent designs are ‘trolls’ is a highly popular one, generally throughout the general public, who are not very informed on Demna and his designs. Balenciaga has released a number of products that received great amounts of criticism under Demna, namely the $1,790 ‘trash’ bag, or the Balenciaga Crocs, many models which retailed above $1,000. Putting myself in a fashion outsider's shoes, I can see how these items could be seen as jokes, as if Balenciaga is playing a prank on the consumers, especially with the outrageous price tags on many of their items. However if one does their research into Demna, they will find that he has stayed true to his original philosophy of tearing down any preconceived notions surrounding fashion, and rebuilding the public’s perceptions. 

The Balenciaga NYC Show Spring 23 Collection, is known for its bold and thought-provoking designs that often carry symbolic meaning. In this particular collection, Demna sought to explore themes of consumerism, environmental degradation, the impact of technology on society, and the fetishism of finance. The collection features exaggerated silhouettes, oversized and distorted shapes, and a colour palette inspired by environmental waste and pollution. These elements symbolise the negative impact of consumerism and modern society on the environment. The use of bright, eye-catching colours serves to draw attention to these issues, while the distorted shapes represent the damage that has already been done. In addition, the collection incorporates elements of technology and digital culture, such as computer-generated prints, circuit board patterns, and internet-inspired graphics. These elements symbolise the all-encompassing presence of technology in our lives and its impact on the way we see and experience the world. The show takes place in the New York stock exchange, and it provokes thoughts about the fetishism of finance, which is also shown through the exorbitant price of the garments themselves.

However, to counter my argument, Balenciaga is owned by the Kering Group, a group that owns Gucci, and many other luxury fashion brands. This means that Balenciaga is a primarily profit-driven company, and could mean that Demna’s outrageous, and polarising designs are simply publicity stunts, used only to bring profit to the Kering Group. While this completely counters my argument, I believe that this was an important point to bring up, as I want to open myself up to the idea that the general public’s opinion on Balenciaga is in fact correct.

Balenciaga’s recent controversies and collaborations also point to this fact, such as their recent collaboration with Kanye West, an undeniable polarising public figure. This, along with their collaborations with the video game ‘Fortnite’, or with ‘The Simpsons’, drum up large amounts of chat within the fashion space, and while deeply criticised, generally help in creating buzz around a brand, and as they say, any publicity is good publicity. I think that their creative ways of creating buzz, or shocking the consumer, is also what they attempted to do in their recent campaign that received a very large amount of backlash. The campaign advertisements contained old court cases surrounding child sexual abuse, and one ad was even of a young girl holding a toy bear that had many BDSM style accessories on it. I believe that while this was absolutely inappropriate from Balenciaga, their intentions remained the same as with their older campaigns, which was to shock the viewer.

In conclusion, Balenciaga, a luxury fashion house with a rich history, has been the centre of many controversies and public criticism since the appointment of Demna Gvasalia as creative director in 2015. Demna's unconventional designs have been met with mixed reactions, with some viewing them as artistic and innovative, while others see them as outrageous and simply publicity stunts. Despite the polarising opinions, Balenciaga has solidified itself as a prominent fashion house with thought-provoking designs that challenge traditional fashion norms. Balenciaga's designs and controversies will continue to spark discussion and debate within the fashion industry and the public eye, and continue to feel like a joke to those less informed.

[knittinganddrinkingtea]

Atelier Versace Spring 2014

Model: Sasha Luss

[judith-orshalimian]

Georges Chakra Bridal Spring/Summer 2014 Haute Couture Collections!

[zegalba]

Sheguang Hu Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014