#Solvent-based Coatings

[ibtikaruae]

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[crayfurbs]

how did you do a new furby custom how

OK so the first thing that I ended up doing was drawing up some concepts of 1998 furbies that I liked as the 2023 furby.

The design that I ended up going with was the skunk just because to me that feels like the “furbiest” furby if that makes sense 

 So after I had my concept in mind, I started to skin the Furby, again. As you may have noticed in my previous posts, I had skinned this furby previously, which is why I felt more comfortable, making him into a custom.

After skinning, I did some minor disassembly, mainly taking off the ears and the eyes. I haven’t quite figured out a good enough way to takeoff the feet yet.

For the eyes, I wanted to try and take the paint off and prime them so I worked my way up from solvents finding that 99% IPA was the best, I took the eye paint off, and then proceeded to give the eyelid section a coat of black paint 



I then started on the face plate, painting, it, black, and giving everything a coat of Mr. super clear and while that was drying I started on the eyes and did my first test fit

after finishing the eyes and leaving them to dry, I started on patterning the pelt,

I used standard methods, scanned it, and then imported it into inkscape where I cleaned it up and cut it out. It was pretty simple (only 3 pieces) so it was a very quick process to sew it and the faceplate back on, I was then able to do my 2nd test fits.

After the 2nd test fit, I decided to try and work on the heart gem, it’s a bit finicky so I had to use a pretty thick embroidery needle to push and pick the fur into place but I got it,

I didn’t take any pics of reassembly because getting the ears back on is pretty frustrating, but here we are

I was super happy with the final result, all and all it only took me 2-3 hours to complete and was pretty fun to do.

I wouldn’t say it was a very complex disassembly process, you didn’t have to deal with any eyechips to change the eyes, yet the eyes weren’t an accessible like on a 2005. The pelt was also pretty straightforward , only being 2 pieces before I modified it so it could be sewn In less than 5 minutes. All of the parts unscrew pretty easily and go back together really well, and the plastic takes paint amazingly. It’s a pretty solid base for customs

But ye, that’s how I ended up making Slunk. :p

[stevethefishdotnet]

Argo Nauts 1:72 Y-Wing sofubi build update August 7th, 2024

I had posted a scan of this kit's box a few months ago. This is a sofubi (soft vinyl) kit with some brass, pewter, and resin pieces. The main body is vinyl, the disk ventrals at the tail ends of the nacelles are resin, the nacelle beams are brass, and the guns and landing gears are pewter (I think).

This picture above is a quick dry fit of what it looks like so far. I didn't tape the pieces together or anything, but just quickly assembled it for this picture. I later realized that I had hastily attached the nacelles upside-down. I just threw this quickly together to take a photo.

The kit does not come with any decals, so I gave it my own, unique paint scheme. This is a Blue Squadron Y-Wing and I am happy with the stripes I fashioned on my own with masking tape. I painted the vinyl parts with V-Color paints, which are made specifically for painting sofubi kits and toys. This paint is great because when applied properly to vinyl, you cannot scratch it off. It's extremely durable and flexible paint.

I first mixed Light Gray in with Black to make my own German Gray color which I used as an undercoat. I splotched Mr. Masking Neo in areas with a sponge for paint chipping, then went over it with Light Gray. I used Blue and Pastel Blue for the trim, and Orange Yellow to have one panel be a replacement. For the non-sofubi parts, I used Mr. Color 325 (JASDF Gray, IIRC) which is a good match for the V-Color Light Gray. The engine cans were painted a mixture of V-Color Gloss Black and Silver, resulting in a nice gunmetal color.

I later decided to not go with the pastel blue trim for the nacelle tips and re-masked and re-painted them with the matching medium blue I'd used on the cockpit fuselage, which you can see in the photo below. It was a bit tricky, but I also added a small ring of Flesh 1 color on the sensor domes. V-Color has its own clear Smoke color. I made sure to use the Smoke to stain the area around the proton torpedo launchers on the underside. After applying that and a clear gloss top coat, I applied a wash. You cannot use enamel paints on vinyl since they do not react well to each other. Instead I used some Turner Acryl Goache paints, some black with a bit of gray mixed in. Turner paints can be found at any stationery store here in Japan and elementary students use these paints for their classroom art projects. (The jibungous Tsutaya mega bookstore in Maebashi has a great hobby section that has a wide selection of these paints as well as artist oils, pastel chalks, and plenty of other hobby supplies.) I thinned it with Mr. Hobby's Weathering Paint Goache Solvent. (I don't know what "goache" means because I forget... Go look it up if you care.) This is made for making a wash out of acrylic paints. Simple water or acrylic thinner can cause the paint to dry in splotches, but this solvent is made to help the paint run into contours and stay still instead of spreading into splotches.

There is no flat clear V-Color paint, so I had to create my own with Clear and Flat Base and tested it out on some spare vinyl until it looked right. I think maybe it might be a bit too flat, but I'm alright. After this flat coat, the blue looks considerably subdued and blends in better with the light gray.

The photo above is just another sloppy dry fit. Thus, it doesn't look straight. So far I have only glued the nose cannons to the cockpit pod, the sensor array domes to the nacelle tips, the engine cans and the exhaust shrouds that cover them to the engine pods, and I have glued the disk vectrals to the support pylons at the ends of the nacelles. I have yet to secure these beams to the engine pods, which are also not glued to the engine pylons. Nor have I glued the fuselage, cockpit, canopy, and such.

To quote Han Solo, "Here's where the fun begins." While this kit provides brass rods for the support pylons, you have to provide your own wires for the piping and bend them all into shape. If I don't get this part right, the model won't look good. So, I am a bit nervous. I am using Wave's C-Line brass rods. Since I have seen some Y-Wing builds in which the pipes were painted a metallic color, I think I might just leave mine unpainted. A viewer on YouTube suggested to me to paint the wires a metallic color for scale, but I think it looks fine as it is. What do you think? They look a bit too shiny since the fluorescent light is shining directly onto them in this picture. I will apply a wash on the brass rods and I was thinking that I will hand-brush Mr. Metal Primer since it is clear and the enamel or whatever should stick to it better after that. Maybe I'll use that Games Workshop Nuln Oil as a wash over the pipes. The pipes should add the bonus value of acting like pins to keep the pieces together. 

So far, my only complaint is the cockpit canopy. It was difficult to cut out the windows and I think it really should have been molded in resin. The Astromech was painted V-Color Gloss Black and masked off. I will paint its trim with Mr. Hobby Aqueous Gloss White. I also need to paint the cockpit instrumentation with various colors too.

I'm really enjoying this build and as a result I'm getting back into the three Nadia sofubi kits by Tsukuda that have been languishing for years as shelf queens. I've made good progress with those and I will post an update on those soon. I've also begun working on a Deedlit sofubi kit by Kaiyodo.

[ckao03]

Part 3 - Priming (For covering the skin color (ie, for an oc))

If you want to change the skin color (such as for an OC turtle), you need to start with a blank slate by covering the original color.

[Please note that no matter how you prepare and protect the figure, the joints in the arms and legs will always scrape away your paint and reveal the original plastic sooner or later in those areas.]

If you still want to continue...

You'll need: A can of white spray primer (Mr Hobby's Mr Base White 1500 or Citadel's White Scar work well. Citadel products are found in most model/hobby shops)

Arrange your figure in a t-pose, lay it on newspaper or paper towel and, IN A WELL VENTILATED OR OUTSIDE AREA, spray the figure in light sweeps from side to side, from about 10-12 inches away. You do not want to coat the entire figure all at once; you want to let it dry, and apply thin coats until the figure is eventually covered. Spraying too much too fast will cause the primer to run down and 'flood' the details.

If you flood your model, it can be a difficult and lengthy process to remove the primer. Solvents used to dissolve and wipe away the paint can sometimes melt or disfigure your toy...

If you want to practice first, try it on a cheap toy or figure from the dollar store (You could always paint that, too!). Use extra patience with this step.

Also, always read the safety instructions on the can before using any sort of spray and use breathing protection, like a chemical rated respirator when recommended.

[firespirited]

So it’s not so much hard rules about ‘do nots’ for dolls but a reminder that clothes, accessories, fibres are often other plastics that can interact especially if you add a catalyst like a solvent based glue, gel, heat or pressure.

Your pony with plastic coated glass pearls braided into the hair might be fine, the one with plastic coated acrylic pearls could stain. The pony’s hair might be fine but it could stain against the leg or stain against another pony’s accessories while in storage against each other. G1 might be fine when G2 isn’t.

Part of the reason I haven’t bought Rainbow High clothes is because my bratz clothes that were plastic or partially plastic hit the twenty year mark and turned into dust or sticky messes. We know that something about the Begoth fashion dolls made them melt and yellow. Some pale skin Barbies lose the pink from their skin.

For newer dolls we won’t know how they hold up and given that the doll community is dispersed we just haven’t heard from all the people who bought $150 MH customs except via thrift finds.

It’s why it’s important documentation when people get out their old customs and explain what they wouldn’t do this time around. I have a tag called “mistakes I make so you don’t have to” precisely because I spend my time futzing around with dollar store junk and upcycled materials... and then finding out!

[ode2miss-shared-epiphany4you]

“Theircoming”

.

Hard ground and soft ground etched- acids! solvents! mineral spirits! I went over it with drypoint too. Aquatint for the elephant shadows…it’s where you put the copper plate on a rack, close the door, and turn a handle really fast 20 something times to make a cloud of rosin that evenly coats the plate. There were a lot of shifts in the plate such as using a roulette tool to give textured shadows to the other idols and scraping, sanding, and burnishing parts of where I’d mistakenly drawn to then drypoint over. These were based on some minuscule animalistic beads I’ve got that stand on a shelf. For the cloverlets I did Chine-collé by cutting out and gluing this green dyed paper so that I can carefully lay it on its back on the plate to then align paper on top and print . I have some more that I will share later but this was good to work with my hands I could have done better at wiping the plate of its ink but let me know what you think

[stitcherton]

I'm experimenting with using wood stain on my embroidery hoops to give them a more high quality look and feel. Was inspired by this article on craftingcheerfully.com.

This turned out a lot better than I expected it to. Instead of the gel stains the author recommends, I used oil stains.

Prepared the hoop by removing the screw and covering up the metal bits with some masking tape. After that I roughed it up with some sandpaper (I used 80 grit, but I'd probably recommend 100 or higher for a more even colouring) and cleaned off all the dust.

Then I applied a coat of varathane pre-stain wood conditioner, let it sit for 30 minutes as suggested and then applied 4 coats of varathane oil-based stain in the Ebony colour.

I let that dry overnight and then applied a coat of varathane's oil-based polyurethane coating.

All told, for my first time ever working with wood stains, it didn't go terribly. Definitely do all of this outside or in an otherwise very well ventilated area and be careful because all of these steps involve working with highly flammable volatile organic solvents or solutions thereof.

I'll definitely keep experimenting with this. Would love to hear about anyone's experiences working with wood stains either for embroidery or otherwise.

[ibtikaruae]

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[oak23]

I have a question, you mentioned in an earlier post that YouTube(?) repaint tutorials were cringy/hard to watch. What are some of the most common mistakes made in these tutorials and what should they do differently??

Improper use of sealer lol. A lot of the time MSC mistakes happen cuz the can wasn't warmed up enough either via shaking it rapidly for long enough or the environment was too cold. And also the can is usually sprayed too close so the face remains shiny instead of matte.

Of course you should shake the can but sometimes in the middle of winter it's too cold for that so I usually stick my can in a cup of hot tap water and let it warm up for a few minutes before spraying. I also mentally try to keep the spray layers light and misty. It's a lot better to do a billion thin coats than one thick one.

Another is using hot glue or water soluble materials on dolls you're gonna boil or style later. Like yeah, the hot glue is gonna melt under boiling water and the water based glue is gonna melt when you wash the doll.

Using stuff like nail polish, makeup or stationary instead of artist grade materials is also a big cringe factor for me cuz you can see, not only are they uninformed and taking shortcuts, but they're wasting really expensive materials that are not designed to last forever. There's a reason why stuff meant for human use is meant to degrade and come off eventually versus something that can be archived indefinitely. It's why we don't spray gorilla glue in our hair and why we don't use nail polish on dolls.

Plus i literally have art supplies I've been using for over 15 years at this point. The $10 i paid for a tube of paint or the $3 chalk pastel I got in 2007 has outlasted even the nicest nail polish or whatever. Customising and art requires a bit of investment but they can literally last you years.

Another cringe thing is people not understanding different hair fibres need to be styled differently. Saran can dry out and needs to be conditioned and it can stay silky smooth. However the silky smoothness means you need to put a lot more work for the hair to take a curl.

Nylon takes curls like a champ but it's notorious for tangling and matting because it holds its shape so well. Seeing customisers pick one or the other and having to struggle to style their dolls because they don't understand is frustrating to me.

Also people not knowing dolls are made up of different materials and thinking all chemicals or art supplies can applied to each thing uniformly. A doll's vinyl head is gonna react differently to the ABS plastic of the torso to the injected molded vinyl of the hands to the nylon joints in a doll. Like of course acetone, a solvent that can melt ABS plastic won't have the same effect on the vinyl head and etc. Of course enamel and nail polish work okay on the ABS plastic of a doll torso but will remain tacky on a vinyl head.

I could go on but I won't.

[emporium-floor-sanding-supplies]

WaterKote 2K

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[washninja]

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[materialsscienceandengineering]

Highly sensitive infrared polarizer based on sulfur waste created

Polarimetric images can provide information such as shading and surface morphologies by using polarizers that selectively reflect the transverse electric (TE) field and transmit the transverse magnetic (TM) field of unpolarized incident light. However, current IR polarizers are mainly based on expensive and brittle ceramics (such as semiconductors and chalcogenides) with nano-gratings usually fabricated by time- and cost-consuming interference lithography.

Recently, a sulfur-rich polymer, synthesized by "inverse-vulcanization," has received much attention as a suitable candidate for IR optics, owing to its intrinsic high transmittance in the IR region. The sulfur-rich polymer is mainly composed of an elemental sulfur-based backbone. Notably, there are 7 million tons of sulfur created annually as a surplus from petroleum-refining processes. Hence, this sulfur-rich polymer can be mass-produced with high economic feasibility.

Unlike conventional IR materials, the sulfur-rich polymer can be solubilized in an organic solvent which means a solution-based process, represented as spin-coating, can be applied. In addition, the viscoelasticity and dynamic covalent disulfide bonds allow the sulfur-rich polymer to be molded to diverse nanostructures by thermal-based processing represented as thermal nanoimprinting lithography (thermal NIL).

Read more.

[mynailsart]

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If you have the necessary tools and know how to follow instructions, doing nails may be done quickly and easily, even if you're a beginner. Having the best organic nail polish on hand anytime you want to alter the color of your nails is one of nails supply wholesale the things you need to have to guarantee that your nails will have an attractive finish and last longer than standard nail colors.

However, there is no genuine reason to go to the salon every time. You will succeed even on your first attempt if you know how to adhere to straightforward directions. Soon, you'll discover that doing your nails is quite simple and maybe even enjoyable.

I'll get back to what this post is supposed to achieve. We all understand that it is not realistic to visit the nail salon every time your nails need to be painted. Finding out that you still need to wait hours before your nails are finished could even aggravate you. Even worse are the side effects brought on nails supplys by the hazardous chemicals that are frequently used to clean and paint your nails.

Along with the lengthy exposure to dangerous chemicals, you also run the risk of getting unwanted side effects like nausea, headaches, and confusion.

You must make sure that only safe ingredients are mixed in every bottle of nail polish that you use or permit to be applied on your nails if you want to make sure that all you get from your mani or pedi experience is pure joy.

Searching for the top natural nail polish? For your next application of nail color, you might wish to take into account one or more of the brands listed below.

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PIG GLASS

When it comes to a healthy alternative to nail polish, Piggy Paint is one of the most popular choices. This non-toxic, water-based product is designed to be 5 Free, 7 Free, vegan, and cruelty-free toward animals. No formaldehyde, toluene, dibutyl phthalate (DBP), formaldehyde resin, bisphenol A, ethyl acetate, acetone, or any other chemical is present.

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Another excellent option for an organic nail polish that has been getting excellent ratings from many people is Karma organic. The popular two-in-one base coat from the company is mentioned in this product description.

The company is well renowned nail supply online for its all-natural goods that are devoid of formaldehyde, formaldehyde resin, toluene, DBP, and camphor. They are also made with vegans in mind.

Nail Polish Zoya

The well-known nail product company Zoya provides healthier nail lacquer solutions for more attractive, trendy nails. The world's top selections for pregnant women and women who value their health are its nail colors. This nail color is Big 10 free in addition to being vegan-friendly.

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It is said that Emosa Nail Polish is completely non-toxic. All of those vibrant colors are created using a water-based solution that also contains natural components. This formulation does not contain any formaldehyde, toluene, or DBP compounds.

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