#Solvent-based Coatings

[ibtikaruae]

Top Benefits of Using Solvent-Based Intumescent Coatings for Fire Protection

Solvent-based intumescent coatings are one of the most advanced fire protection solutions. They expand significantly when exposed to high temperatures, creating a protective char layer that insulates the underlying structure. When exposed to fire, the active chemicals in these specialty coatings, which are distributed in organic solvents, undergo a chemical reaction that causes the coating to inflate up to 50 times its initial thickness, effectively forming a thermal barrier.

Visit Us: https://ibtikar-uae.com/top-benefits-of-using-solvent-based-intumescent-coatings-for-fire-protection/

[crayfurbs]

how did you do a new furby custom how

OK so the first thing that I ended up doing was drawing up some concepts of 1998 furbies that I liked as the 2023 furby.

The design that I ended up going with was the skunk just because to me that feels like the “furbiest” furby if that makes sense 

 So after I had my concept in mind, I started to skin the Furby, again. As you may have noticed in my previous posts, I had skinned this furby previously, which is why I felt more comfortable, making him into a custom.

After skinning, I did some minor disassembly, mainly taking off the ears and the eyes. I haven’t quite figured out a good enough way to takeoff the feet yet.

For the eyes, I wanted to try and take the paint off and prime them so I worked my way up from solvents finding that 99% IPA was the best, I took the eye paint off, and then proceeded to give the eyelid section a coat of black paint 



I then started on the face plate, painting, it, black, and giving everything a coat of Mr. super clear and while that was drying I started on the eyes and did my first test fit

after finishing the eyes and leaving them to dry, I started on patterning the pelt,

I used standard methods, scanned it, and then imported it into inkscape where I cleaned it up and cut it out. It was pretty simple (only 3 pieces) so it was a very quick process to sew it and the faceplate back on, I was then able to do my 2nd test fits.

After the 2nd test fit, I decided to try and work on the heart gem, it’s a bit finicky so I had to use a pretty thick embroidery needle to push and pick the fur into place but I got it,

I didn’t take any pics of reassembly because getting the ears back on is pretty frustrating, but here we are

I was super happy with the final result, all and all it only took me 2-3 hours to complete and was pretty fun to do.

I wouldn’t say it was a very complex disassembly process, you didn’t have to deal with any eyechips to change the eyes, yet the eyes weren’t an accessible like on a 2005. The pelt was also pretty straightforward , only being 2 pieces before I modified it so it could be sewn In less than 5 minutes. All of the parts unscrew pretty easily and go back together really well, and the plastic takes paint amazingly. It’s a pretty solid base for customs

But ye, that’s how I ended up making Slunk. :p

[stevethefishdotnet]

Argo Nauts 1:72 Y-Wing sofubi build update August 7th, 2024

I had posted a scan of this kit's box a few months ago. This is a sofubi (soft vinyl) kit with some brass, pewter, and resin pieces. The main body is vinyl, the disk ventrals at the tail ends of the nacelles are resin, the nacelle beams are brass, and the guns and landing gears are pewter (I think).

This picture above is a quick dry fit of what it looks like so far. I didn't tape the pieces together or anything, but just quickly assembled it for this picture. I later realized that I had hastily attached the nacelles upside-down. I just threw this quickly together to take a photo.

The kit does not come with any decals, so I gave it my own, unique paint scheme. This is a Blue Squadron Y-Wing and I am happy with the stripes I fashioned on my own with masking tape. I painted the vinyl parts with V-Color paints, which are made specifically for painting sofubi kits and toys. This paint is great because when applied properly to vinyl, you cannot scratch it off. It's extremely durable and flexible paint.

I first mixed Light Gray in with Black to make my own German Gray color which I used as an undercoat. I splotched Mr. Masking Neo in areas with a sponge for paint chipping, then went over it with Light Gray. I used Blue and Pastel Blue for the trim, and Orange Yellow to have one panel be a replacement. For the non-sofubi parts, I used Mr. Color 325 (JASDF Gray, IIRC) which is a good match for the V-Color Light Gray. The engine cans were painted a mixture of V-Color Gloss Black and Silver, resulting in a nice gunmetal color.

I later decided to not go with the pastel blue trim for the nacelle tips and re-masked and re-painted them with the matching medium blue I'd used on the cockpit fuselage, which you can see in the photo below. It was a bit tricky, but I also added a small ring of Flesh 1 color on the sensor domes. V-Color has its own clear Smoke color. I made sure to use the Smoke to stain the area around the proton torpedo launchers on the underside. After applying that and a clear gloss top coat, I applied a wash. You cannot use enamel paints on vinyl since they do not react well to each other. Instead I used some Turner Acryl Goache paints, some black with a bit of gray mixed in. Turner paints can be found at any stationery store here in Japan and elementary students use these paints for their classroom art projects. (The jibungous Tsutaya mega bookstore in Maebashi has a great hobby section that has a wide selection of these paints as well as artist oils, pastel chalks, and plenty of other hobby supplies.) I thinned it with Mr. Hobby's Weathering Paint Goache Solvent. (I don't know what "goache" means because I forget... Go look it up if you care.) This is made for making a wash out of acrylic paints. Simple water or acrylic thinner can cause the paint to dry in splotches, but this solvent is made to help the paint run into contours and stay still instead of spreading into splotches.

There is no flat clear V-Color paint, so I had to create my own with Clear and Flat Base and tested it out on some spare vinyl until it looked right. I think maybe it might be a bit too flat, but I'm alright. After this flat coat, the blue looks considerably subdued and blends in better with the light gray.

The photo above is just another sloppy dry fit. Thus, it doesn't look straight. So far I have only glued the nose cannons to the cockpit pod, the sensor array domes to the nacelle tips, the engine cans and the exhaust shrouds that cover them to the engine pods, and I have glued the disk vectrals to the support pylons at the ends of the nacelles. I have yet to secure these beams to the engine pods, which are also not glued to the engine pylons. Nor have I glued the fuselage, cockpit, canopy, and such.

To quote Han Solo, "Here's where the fun begins." While this kit provides brass rods for the support pylons, you have to provide your own wires for the piping and bend them all into shape. If I don't get this part right, the model won't look good. So, I am a bit nervous. I am using Wave's C-Line brass rods. Since I have seen some Y-Wing builds in which the pipes were painted a metallic color, I think I might just leave mine unpainted. A viewer on YouTube suggested to me to paint the wires a metallic color for scale, but I think it looks fine as it is. What do you think? They look a bit too shiny since the fluorescent light is shining directly onto them in this picture. I will apply a wash on the brass rods and I was thinking that I will hand-brush Mr. Metal Primer since it is clear and the enamel or whatever should stick to it better after that. Maybe I'll use that Games Workshop Nuln Oil as a wash over the pipes. The pipes should add the bonus value of acting like pins to keep the pieces together. 

So far, my only complaint is the cockpit canopy. It was difficult to cut out the windows and I think it really should have been molded in resin. The Astromech was painted V-Color Gloss Black and masked off. I will paint its trim with Mr. Hobby Aqueous Gloss White. I also need to paint the cockpit instrumentation with various colors too.

I'm really enjoying this build and as a result I'm getting back into the three Nadia sofubi kits by Tsukuda that have been languishing for years as shelf queens. I've made good progress with those and I will post an update on those soon. I've also begun working on a Deedlit sofubi kit by Kaiyodo.

[ckao03]

Part 3 - Priming (For covering the skin color (ie, for an oc))

If you want to change the skin color (such as for an OC turtle), you need to start with a blank slate by covering the original color.

[Please note that no matter how you prepare and protect the figure, the joints in the arms and legs will always scrape away your paint and reveal the original plastic sooner or later in those areas.]

If you still want to continue...

You'll need: A can of white spray primer (Mr Hobby's Mr Base White 1500 or Citadel's White Scar work well. Citadel products are found in most model/hobby shops)

Arrange your figure in a t-pose, lay it on newspaper or paper towel and, IN A WELL VENTILATED OR OUTSIDE AREA, spray the figure in light sweeps from side to side, from about 10-12 inches away. You do not want to coat the entire figure all at once; you want to let it dry, and apply thin coats until the figure is eventually covered. Spraying too much too fast will cause the primer to run down and 'flood' the details.

If you flood your model, it can be a difficult and lengthy process to remove the primer. Solvents used to dissolve and wipe away the paint can sometimes melt or disfigure your toy...

If you want to practice first, try it on a cheap toy or figure from the dollar store (You could always paint that, too!). Use extra patience with this step.

Also, always read the safety instructions on the can before using any sort of spray and use breathing protection, like a chemical rated respirator when recommended.

[firespirited]

So it’s not so much hard rules about ‘do nots’ for dolls but a reminder that clothes, accessories, fibres are often other plastics that can interact especially if you add a catalyst like a solvent based glue, gel, heat or pressure.

Your pony with plastic coated glass pearls braided into the hair might be fine, the one with plastic coated acrylic pearls could stain. The pony’s hair might be fine but it could stain against the leg or stain against another pony’s accessories while in storage against each other. G1 might be fine when G2 isn’t.

Part of the reason I haven’t bought Rainbow High clothes is because my bratz clothes that were plastic or partially plastic hit the twenty year mark and turned into dust or sticky messes. We know that something about the Begoth fashion dolls made them melt and yellow. Some pale skin Barbies lose the pink from their skin.

For newer dolls we won’t know how they hold up and given that the doll community is dispersed we just haven’t heard from all the people who bought $150 MH customs except via thrift finds.

It’s why it’s important documentation when people get out their old customs and explain what they wouldn’t do this time around. I have a tag called “mistakes I make so you don’t have to” precisely because I spend my time futzing around with dollar store junk and upcycled materials... and then finding out!

[ode2miss-shared-epiphany4you]

“Theircoming”

.

Hard ground and soft ground etched- acids! solvents! mineral spirits! I went over it with drypoint too. Aquatint for the elephant shadows…it’s where you put the copper plate on a rack, close the door, and turn a handle really fast 20 something times to make a cloud of rosin that evenly coats the plate. There were a lot of shifts in the plate such as using a roulette tool to give textured shadows to the other idols and scraping, sanding, and burnishing parts of where I’d mistakenly drawn to then drypoint over. These were based on some minuscule animalistic beads I’ve got that stand on a shelf. For the cloverlets I did Chine-collé by cutting out and gluing this green dyed paper so that I can carefully lay it on its back on the plate to then align paper on top and print . I have some more that I will share later but this was good to work with my hands I could have done better at wiping the plate of its ink but let me know what you think

[stitcherton]

I'm experimenting with using wood stain on my embroidery hoops to give them a more high quality look and feel. Was inspired by this article on craftingcheerfully.com.

This turned out a lot better than I expected it to. Instead of the gel stains the author recommends, I used oil stains.

Prepared the hoop by removing the screw and covering up the metal bits with some masking tape. After that I roughed it up with some sandpaper (I used 80 grit, but I'd probably recommend 100 or higher for a more even colouring) and cleaned off all the dust.

Then I applied a coat of varathane pre-stain wood conditioner, let it sit for 30 minutes as suggested and then applied 4 coats of varathane oil-based stain in the Ebony colour.

I let that dry overnight and then applied a coat of varathane's oil-based polyurethane coating.

All told, for my first time ever working with wood stains, it didn't go terribly. Definitely do all of this outside or in an otherwise very well ventilated area and be careful because all of these steps involve working with highly flammable volatile organic solvents or solutions thereof.

I'll definitely keep experimenting with this. Would love to hear about anyone's experiences working with wood stains either for embroidery or otherwise.

[emporium-floor-sanding-supplies]

WaterKote 2K

WaterKote 2K GLOSS / SATIN / MATT / BARE is a new generation 2 component water borne polyurethane finish, incorporating an extended open time that provides exceptional flow and levelling resulting in a polyurethane gloss film offering extremely hardwearing and long lasting protection to flooring and parquetry of all timber species. Because water is used as the alternative carrier to solvent, URETHANE COATINGS mixed WaterKote 2K GLOSS / SATIN / MATT emits low VOC (volatile organic compounds) and is therefore user and environmentally friendly but this advanced technology retains all the durable and hard wearing benefits of solvent based polyurethane.

[washninja]

@WashNinja #biodegradable 🍓 #CarWashShampoo easily cleans exterior vehicle surfaces. Non-toxic VOC, solvent free, paraben-free vegan product combines plant-derived ingredients that produce a spot free finish.

- - - - -

Features & Benefits

• Super suds formula removes dirt and grime.

• Powerful plant-based cleaning agents.

• No alcohol, bleach, phosphates, or dyes.

• Formula safe on existing wax or coatings.

• Strawberry scent.

- - - - -

Directions

• Wash vehicle in a shaded location away from direct sunlight.

• Wash vehicle when surface is cool.

• Rinse vehicle to remove loose dirt.

• Dilute 1-2 oz. EcoSuds per gallon of water in bucket.

• Use a second bucket with plain water for rinsing wash mitt.

• Wash vehicle with premium wash mitt or sponge.

• Rinse vehicle and dry immediately with towel.

[materialsscienceandengineering]

Highly sensitive infrared polarizer based on sulfur waste created

Polarimetric images can provide information such as shading and surface morphologies by using polarizers that selectively reflect the transverse electric (TE) field and transmit the transverse magnetic (TM) field of unpolarized incident light. However, current IR polarizers are mainly based on expensive and brittle ceramics (such as semiconductors and chalcogenides) with nano-gratings usually fabricated by time- and cost-consuming interference lithography.

Recently, a sulfur-rich polymer, synthesized by "inverse-vulcanization," has received much attention as a suitable candidate for IR optics, owing to its intrinsic high transmittance in the IR region. The sulfur-rich polymer is mainly composed of an elemental sulfur-based backbone. Notably, there are 7 million tons of sulfur created annually as a surplus from petroleum-refining processes. Hence, this sulfur-rich polymer can be mass-produced with high economic feasibility.

Unlike conventional IR materials, the sulfur-rich polymer can be solubilized in an organic solvent which means a solution-based process, represented as spin-coating, can be applied. In addition, the viscoelasticity and dynamic covalent disulfide bonds allow the sulfur-rich polymer to be molded to diverse nanostructures by thermal-based processing represented as thermal nanoimprinting lithography (thermal NIL).

Read more.

[ibtikaruae]

How Solvent-Based Intumescent Coatings Improve Fire Safety in Buildings?

Building safety is critical in the field of fire prevention, and solvent based intumescent coatings help to improve it. These coatings are intended to protect structural elements from fire. They maintain the safety and security of the building during emergencies.

Visit Us: https://kateoliver.livepositively.com/how-solvent-based-intumescent-coatings-improve-fire-safety-in-buildings/

[mynailsart]

2023 REVIEWS OF THE BEST ORGANIC NAIL POLISH

If you have the necessary tools and know how to follow instructions, doing nails may be done quickly and easily, even if you're a beginner. Having the best organic nail polish on hand anytime you want to alter the color of your nails is one of nails supply wholesale the things you need to have to guarantee that your nails will have an attractive finish and last longer than standard nail colors.

However, there is no genuine reason to go to the salon every time. You will succeed even on your first attempt if you know how to adhere to straightforward directions. Soon, you'll discover that doing your nails is quite simple and maybe even enjoyable.

I'll get back to what this post is supposed to achieve. We all understand that it is not realistic to visit the nail salon every time your nails need to be painted. Finding out that you still need to wait hours before your nails are finished could even aggravate you. Even worse are the side effects brought on nails supplys by the hazardous chemicals that are frequently used to clean and paint your nails.

Along with the lengthy exposure to dangerous chemicals, you also run the risk of getting unwanted side effects like nausea, headaches, and confusion.

You must make sure that only safe ingredients are mixed in every bottle of nail polish that you use or permit to be applied on your nails if you want to make sure that all you get from your mani or pedi experience is pure joy.

Searching for the top natural nail polish? For your next application of nail color, you might wish to take into account one or more of the brands listed below.

BONTIME ORGANIC EASY PEEL-OFF NAIL POLISH, WATER-BASED

If you're seeking for a secure substitute for nail paint, this is a fantastic choice. Bontime is a water-based, odorless, economical, and environmentally friendly polish that works well for everyone���even expectant mothers, nursing mothers, children, and toddlers. There are no chemical solvents in this formula, which is entirely organic.

A Bontime polish that is applied correctly can last up to three days. No UV lamp is necessary for the quick drying, simple to use polish to work its magic. When it is already time for a color change, there is no need to apply a polish remover as well. Even a novice won't have any trouble utilizing it the first time because of how simple it is.

PIG GLASS

When it comes to a healthy alternative to nail polish, Piggy Paint is one of the most popular choices. This non-toxic, water-based product is designed to be 5 Free, 7 Free, vegan, and cruelty-free toward animals. No formaldehyde, toluene, dibutyl phthalate (DBP), formaldehyde resin, bisphenol A, ethyl acetate, acetone, or any other chemical is present.

Piggy Paint has no offensive odor because it is produced from natural substances. Since it has no smell, it is a fantastic option for children, pregnant women, nursing mothers, even toddlers and babies.

With each coat of this non-toxic nail paint, all you get is a tough, long-lasting finish that can last for up to two weeks.

Organic Karma Nail Polish

Another excellent option for an organic nail polish that has been getting excellent ratings from many people is Karma organic. The popular two-in-one base coat from the company is mentioned in this product description.

The company is well renowned nail supply online for its all-natural goods that are devoid of formaldehyde, formaldehyde resin, toluene, DBP, and camphor. They are also made with vegans in mind.

Nail Polish Zoya

The well-known nail product company Zoya provides healthier nail lacquer solutions for more attractive, trendy nails. The world's top selections for pregnant women and women who value their health are its nail colors. This nail color is Big 10 free in addition to being vegan-friendly.

If Zoya nail polish is applied correctly, it will leave a long-lasting finish that won't peel, chip off, or break until your nails require a fresh coat of your favorite shade of nail varnish.

It is said that Emosa Nail Polish is completely non-toxic. All of those vibrant colors are created using a water-based solution that also contains natural components. This formulation does not contain any formaldehyde, toluene, or DBP compounds.

Kids adore it since it is also odorless. You may think of Emosa as the finest option for your children acrylic nail brushes because the firm makes sure that the nail polish they offer is environmentally friendly.

And not just that. This particular brand of nail paint has an easy-soak formula. Simply soak your nails in warm water for one to two minutes if you ever want to change the color. Without the use of nail polish remover, the previous coating can be simply peeled off from one corner.

[laureljaycarpenter]

Exhibition of new work: coming April 2023

TENDER CUSPS is a new series of performative video and printed textile works. Informed by the artist’s thirty-year practice in visual performance, the exhibition reconsiders the body in our current era, extending intimacy and duration to domestic material processes and digital technologies. This particular body: white, female, fleshy and aging, attempts to suspend time and prolong the tipping point: the moment right before collapse, dangling, almost falling, almost overflowing. During the months of pandemic anxiety and countless self-tests, the artist noticed a large white spot forming in her throat. The doctor said it was of no concern, just a seed under the surface, gradually getting coated. The image of becoming like an oyster, the body under strain producing pearls, inspired two body-based videos and a series of textile works with beaded embroidery. Interior images of the artist’s own body—including a capture of the white spot and various medical scans from breast to eye to brain—are pigment ink printed on oxford cloth, lightly altered with kitchen solvents, and hand-stitched with glass beads and actual pearls, indicating the vulnerability, familiarity, and lusciousness of the flaws within. The exhibition also includes an edition of diptych Riso prints, as transportable and affordable companion pieces to ‘Horizon,’ a 5.5-meter (18-foot) textile work. http://www.oberwelt.de/

[atan-orofarne]

One other thing to be aware of with DEET, the most common insect repellent in use (which has been in use for decades, and which is very well-studied for safety at this point): it's a non-polar molecule, and it will act as a solvent on certain plastics, including some hiking gear. It can do the same to the oleophobic coating on your phone screen. ("Oleophobic" means "oil repellent". It helps keep your screen more clear of fingerprints and smudges.) Something to be aware of.

Also, be aware that most purported "natural" insect and tick repellents just are not effective — or only have efficacy numbers published for mosquitos:

https://www.washingtonpost.com/wellness/2023/08/11/deet-free-bug-spray/

If you don't want to use DEET due to the potential risks to gear, picaridin-based repellents are also well-studied at this point (not as much so as DEET, but still well studied), and have similar efficacy against mosquitos and ticks:

https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/insect-repellents.html#:~:text=Picaridin%3A%20Though%20it's%20been%20around,on%20plastics%20and%20other%20synthetics.

My husband and I have been using a picaridin-based repellent for the past few years when we hike. We always keep some in one of our packs, in a pouch alongside the sunscreen.

I'm trying to write a post about tick safety and avoiding tick bites, but a lot of the info on websites is like "Avoid going in the woods, in plants, and where there are wild animals" and "Activities like hiking and gardening can put you at risk" and I'm like thanks! This is worthless!

As ticks and tick borne illnesses are expanding their range, I think it's important for people to be educated about these things, and I think it's especially important to give people actual advice on how to protect themselves instead of telling them to just...avoid the natural world

Rough draft version of Tick Advice:

Ticks don't jump down on you from trees, they get on you when you brush against grass, brush, bushes etc.

Ticks get brought to an area when they get done feeding from an animal and fall off them. In the USA, the main tick-bringing animal is deer, but I've seen plenty ticks on feral cats and songbirds.

Ticks get killed when they dry out so drier areas with more sunlight are less favorable to ticks.

The above is useful for figuring out whether an area is likely to have lots of ticks, and how vigilant you have to be in that area.

Wear light-colored, long pants outside. Tuck your pants into your socks, and tuck your shirt into the waist of your pants. Invest in light, breathable fabrics idc

IMMEDIATELY change out of your outside clothes when you come back from a tick-prone area, wash them, and dry them on high heat to kill any ticks that might be stuck on.

Shower and check yourself for ticks after coming inside. Hair, armpits, and nether regions in particular. You can use a handheld mirror or rely on touch; an attached tick will feel like a bump kinda like a scab

While you're outside, you can just periodically check for ticks by running your hands down your legs and checking visually to see if anything is crawling on your clothes. Light colors make them easy to spot, and they don't move fast.

Combing through each others' hair to check for creepy crawly critters is a time-honored primate ritual and is not weird. When hiking, bring a friend who will have your back when you feel something on your neck and need to know if it's sweat or a tick

If you're careful, you can usually catch ticks before they bite you, but if one does bite you, it's not the end of the world. Since tickborne diseases are different regionally i suspect this advice will differ based on where you are, but the important thing is remove the tick with tweezers (DON'T use butter, a lit match, or anything that kills the tick while it's still attached, please) and contact a doctor to see what to watch for. Most illnesses you can catch from ticks are easily treatable if you recognize them when symptoms first appear

[sandlessseattle]

Floor Wax Stripping Chemicals Seattle WA: Restore the Shine of Your Floors with Professional Solutions

Over time, floors—whether wood, vinyl, or tile—can accumulate layers of wax and dirt that dull their appearance. If you notice that your floors no longer shine as they once did, it might be time to consider using floor wax stripping chemicals Seattle WA. Stripping the old wax is an essential part of maintaining floors, ensuring that they remain clean, vibrant, and well-protected. In this blog post, we’ll explore the benefits of floor wax stripping, the chemicals involved, and why professional services in Seattle, WA, are your best option for the job.

Why You Need Floor Wax Stripping Chemicals in Seattle, WA

Wax is often applied to floors to protect them from scratches and wear. However, over time, wax layers can build up, trapping dirt and grime underneath. This can make your floors look dull, dirty, and aged. Regular cleaning may not be enough to remove the accumulated layers of wax, which is where floor wax stripping chemicals Seattle WA come in.

Using the right chemicals to strip the old wax allows for a fresh start. Here's why it's necessary:

Restore Floor Appearance: Stripping old wax removes unsightly buildup, allowing your floors to shine brightly again. This gives your space a refreshed, clean look.

Remove Stubborn Stains: Wax buildup can trap dirt and stains, making it hard to get your floors looking their best. Stripping the wax removes those stubborn spots.

Prepare for Reapplication: If you plan to reapply wax or a new floor finish, stripping the old wax is crucial. It creates a clean surface for the new coating to adhere to, ensuring a smooth, long-lasting finish.

Preserve Floor Integrity: Over time, excess wax can start to dull the floor and make it appear uneven. Stripping the wax helps protect the underlying surface from damage and keeps your floor in top condition.

Types of Floor Wax Stripping Chemicals

There are several types of floor wax stripping chemicals Seattle WA on the market, each designed for different kinds of flooring and wax buildup. The key is to choose the right product for your specific needs.

Alkaline-Based Strippers: These are among the most common floor wax stripping chemicals. They are powerful and effective for removing wax from vinyl, tile, and other hard floors. Alkaline-based strippers break down wax layers quickly but need to be used with caution, as they can be harsh on certain surfaces if not applied correctly.

Solvent-Based Strippers: Solvent-based strippers work well on stubborn, heavy wax buildup. They’re often used for more resilient floors like wood and commercial spaces with high traffic. While they work quickly and efficiently, they can emit strong fumes and require good ventilation.

Bio-Based Strippers: For a more eco-friendly option, bio-based or natural wax strippers are available. These use plant-derived ingredients to remove wax without the harsh chemicals. They tend to be milder but may require longer application times.

Citrus-Based Strippers: These are often used for floors in homes or areas with children and pets. They are less toxic than other options and offer a natural solution for floor wax stripping. Their citrus scent also leaves the area smelling fresh.

The Floor Wax Stripping Process

Using floor wax stripping chemicals Seattle WA involves a series of steps to ensure the job is done correctly. Here's what to expect from the professional process:

Assessment: A professional technician will first assess the condition of your floor to determine the type of wax and the best stripper to use for your surface.

Application of Stripper: The wax stripper is applied to the floor in a uniform layer. This step is crucial for even results. The chemicals need time to break down the wax, so the solution is left to sit for a specified period.

Scrubbing: After the stripper has had time to work, technicians will scrub the floor with appropriate equipment, loosening the wax and grime. For tough spots, additional applications may be needed.

Removal of Wax: After scrubbing, the wax is removed with a mop or a floor machine. The floor is then rinsed thoroughly to ensure that no chemical residue is left behind.

Drying: Once the wax is removed and the floor has been cleaned, it’s allowed to dry completely before any new wax or finish is applied.

Why Hire Professional Services for Floor Wax Stripping in Seattle, WA?

While you can purchase floor wax stripping chemicals Seattle WA for DIY projects, hiring a professional to handle the job has many advantages:

Expert Knowledge: Professional floor care specialists have the knowledge and experience to choose the right products and techniques for your specific flooring type.

Advanced Equipment: Professionals use industrial-grade equipment that can strip wax more efficiently and safely than manual methods.

Safety: Stripping chemicals can be harsh on your floors if not used properly. A professional ensures that the process is done safely, protecting both your floors and your health.

Time-Saving: Stripping and refinishing floors can be a time-consuming process. Hiring a pro allows you to avoid the mess and hassle while ensuring quality results.

Long-Lasting Results: A professional job will not only restore the shine but also ensure that the new finish or wax is applied correctly, helping it last longer.

When Should You Consider Floor Wax Stripping?

It's important to strip the wax from your floors at the right time. Here are a few scenarios where it’s recommended:

Before Reapplying Wax: If your floors are looking dull despite regular waxing, stripping and reapplying wax is a great way to restore the shine.

When You Notice Buildup: If you’ve been applying wax to the same floors for years, it might be time to strip the buildup and start fresh.

For Cleaning and Maintenance: If your floors are heavily soiled and cleaning isn’t enough to restore their appearance, stripping is an excellent solution.

Choose Expert Floor Wax Stripping Services in Seattle, WA

Don’t let wax buildup diminish the beauty of your floors. Floor wax stripping chemicals Seattle WA can help restore your floors to their former glory, but it’s essential to use the right products and techniques for a successful outcome. By choosing professional services, you ensure a thorough, efficient, and safe waxing process that will leave your floors looking brand new.

Contact a trusted Seattle floor care company today to learn more about floor wax stripping services and get your floors back to their shining best!

[firespirited]

Last night I did a five minute youtube search of doll repair and doll custom. Just super fast. These aren’t terrible in of themselves.

First two are not going to do much except make the hair sticky.

Cutting with big sharp scissors is fine you just have to be super careful, it is really easy to nick the ears or ever the scalp itself if you’re doing a close cut.

The last three are being applied to a face that’s been coated with MSC, so those layers of thin resin will protect from any nail varnish damage, from those shiny nail arts melting to the vinyl, from the black yarn+ glue turning the vinyl blue (though I suspect Cleo’s ears could go grey or blue if the glue used is anything non water based).

The problem is that if you do those things without MSC, you can end up with staining. Acrylic yarn is plastic, AB coated nail art is plastic, cheap ribbon is often plastic and nail varnish has some solvent in it so applying glitter to the eyebrow for a piercing could possibly damage the eyebrow paint.

Not a huge deal unless you have a strong attachment to that doll or plan on selling customs.

I used to use nail art quite a bit before I knew it could leech into the plastic. I once had a yarn reroot stain the head (it was a vivid purple acrylic yarn). It was disappointing but fixable.

It’s just that if you don’t fully understand what MSC is, and you watch these high-traffic “customize your doll” videos, well, you have no idea that you can’t jazz up your own dolls like that until you notice that your Bratzillaz with a nail art beauty mark now has a big grey patch underneath or the ribbon rose stained the pale hair or the stretch fabric has melted to the doll’s legs etc etc...

We don’t have much of low to mid tier customizing and repair apart from myfroggystuff and I don’t expect the entertainment custom doll creators to specify that these methods won’t hold up without the specific materials but again, without a base like a forum, people can’t check in and ask “what glue is safest to do some euphoria styles makeup with nail art?” or “the scrunchy left a blue mark on the blonde hair, how do i fix this?” or “why did my Frankie’s blue streak turn into frizz when I ironed them, I can’t get it straight again?”