#Santubong River | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

irisundfranziunterwegs · 5 years

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Malaysia - The Culvert Tag19

Heute wollen wir es uns richtig gut gehen lassen. Haben für 2 Nächte eine total abgefahrene Unterkunft gebucht. Wir fahren nach Santubong 45 Minuten von der Stadt entfernt.

Unsere Unterkuft heißt " the culvert". ( übersetzt der Abwasserkanal ) Geschlafen wird in riesengroßen Kanalröhren. Auf kleinstem Raum ist hier alles untergebracht. Sportlich sollte man schon sein, denn um ins Bad zu kommen , musst du dich übers Bett rollen. Total irre. Aber sonst fehlt es hier an nichts. Musst nur alles im Backpack lassen und unters Bett schieben, da sonst kein Platz ist.

Wir nehmen Platz in der Lobby mit angrenzender Bar. Es scheint nicht viel los zu sein.

Mit uns sind vielleicht nur noch 6 Urlauber hier.

Möchte wenigstens noch eine Tour unternehmen. Damit nerve ich so lange, bis wir endlich eine Nachttour auf dem River buchen. Hatten wir bisher noch nicht.

Die Zwischenzeit wollen wir am Pool verbringen. Es gibt einen direkt bei der Bar. Die Liegemöglichkeiten sind überdacht , jedoch hat sich durch den Regen das Wasser in der Überdachung gesammelt und tropft auf die Kissen der Liege. Es scheint hier auch keinen zu interessieren. Naja ist auch nicht Hauptreisezeit und je weniger Gäste da sind desto unmotivierter ist man. Kenn ich ja auch von früher aus der Gastro.

Also versuche ich kurzerhand selbst das Wasser aus der Plane rauszubekommen. Man muss ja nur mit etwas Schwung von unten dagegendrücken....Nun ja ......das ging wohl etwas daneben. Plötzlich nimmt das Wasser Fahrt in eine andere Richtung auf und ergießt sich über mich ...zur Freude von Franzi und Heiko.😂

15 Minuten später zeigt uns ein Mitarbeiter, wie das geht. Er kippt die Liegen einfach im Ganzen an und schon läuft das Wasser nach hinten ab.

Nun ja. Es gibt ja noch einen zweiten Pool. Nur da gerade nicht viel Betrieb ist, nutzen sie hier die Zeit zum umbauen. Verständlich , nur es macht auch die zweite Poolbenutzung für uns unbrauchbar.

Na dann eben ab zum Strand. Da steht aber " schwimmen auf eigene Gefahr" . Es wird gewarnt vor Schlangen und Krokodilen.

Zum Glück gibt es noch eine Lounge hier. Mit etwas weniger Lärm warten wir dort auf unsere Abholung zur Rivernight.

Kurz vor der Abholung sehen wir noch einen Makaken in der Nähe von unseren "Röhren". Heißt also, keine Türen offen lassen, sonst fehlt wieder was....

Pünktlich 17.00 Uhr werden wir von unserem Hotel abgeholt. Eine Rivertour nur für uns drei. Sofort als wir die Anlegestelle verlassen haben, sichtet unser Guide Delphine. Es sind mindestes 5 an der Zahl. Es muss auch etwas ganz besonderes sein, da unser Guide selbst alles minutenlang mit dem Handy filmt. Er ist total aus dem Häuschen .

Es geht weiter und es fängt an zu dämmern. Jetzt wird es schwierig mit Tieren sichten. Aber ein paar Nasenaffen bekommen wir noch zu Gesicht. Wusste gar nicht, dass Affen auch große Strecken schwimmen können, denn unser Guide erzählt uns, dass sie von einem zu anderen Ufer schwimmen. Da würde selbst ich untergehen...

Versuchen noch Krokodile zu erspähen. Das bleibt uns aber verwehrt. Dafür sehen wir leuchtendes Plankton, eine riesige Qualle und noch viele Glühwürmchen.

Man sieht nicht mehr die Hand vor den Augen. In einem Affentempo geht es zurück durch die Nacht . Das Boot berührt kaum noch das Wasser und wenn doch , dann nur mir hartem Aufschlag . Wir sind mehr als erleichtert als wir anlegen.

Es wird noch ne Runde gespielt und dann ab in die Kiste...

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viralhottopics · 8 years

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Kuching, Malaysia: what to see plus the best restaurants, hotels and bars

The capital of Malaysian Borneo is one of Asias most alluring cities, with fabulous food and new hotels, but little traffic and few high-rises to spoil the laid-back vibe

Just as Penang was swiftly transformed into one of Asias hottest destinations a few years ago, the buzz in Malaysia right now is all about another under-the-radar spot, the little-known city of Kuching, riverside capital of Sarawak on the island of Borneo. There are several theories as to how the city got its name (Kuching is cat in Malay), but its roots are as a trading post, built up by the family of Sir James Brooke, the first of the white rajahs who ruled Sarawak for a century. When I first visited 20 years ago, Kuching was a backwater, where tourists would hardly break their journey on their way to trek in Borneos rainforests and national parks.

Kuching, Malaysia, map

Going there today still reminds me of a time when Asian cities were not clogged with traffic, pollution and skyscrapers. Kuchings architectural heritage and historic Chinatown are well-preserved, even though it lacks Unesco protection, and there is scarcely a high-rise to spoil the skyline.

The street food has always been spectacular here, but now there are also bistros and fun bars, and a great choice of accommodation from boutique hotels to backpacker hostels. Despite its growth it retains a laid-back, small-town ambiance, with friendly locals who love to meet travellers who have made it all the way to Borneo.

What to see and do

Ji India, a popular street in Kuching. Photograph: Alamy

Kuching is defined by its historic waterfront, and the perfect introduction is to take a sunset stroll along the one-mile pedestrian promenade that follows the snaking Sarawak river. Across the water lie sleepy Malay kampongs, the once-imposing colonial Fort Margherita and the White Rajahs palace, both dwarfed today by an immense modern parliament building resembling a surreal golden spaceship. There are river cruises, but the simple sampan ferry, which rows people back and forth for M$1 a ride (under 20p), is more fun.

A tambang (sampan water taxi) boatman on the Sarawak River. Photograph: Andrew Watson/Getty Images

At the end of the prom, opposite the ancient prison that is now a fashionable restaurant, is the jewel in Kuchings colonial crown, the 19th-century Old Court House withcolonnaded terraces, which has become a culture hub since it was taken over by the people behind Penangs bohemian China House arts and leisure centre. Today the various court buildings host exhibitions, theatre, poetry reading and live music, as well as a fashion boutique, cafe and restaurant. Parallel to the waterfront runs Main Bazaar Street, lined with shops selling tribal handicrafts. The back streets behind form Kuchings Chinatown, a maze of incense-filled temples, coffee shops, street food stalls and noisy workshops full of tinsmiths, cobblers, carpenters and tailors.

Kenyah Dayak mural in the Sarawak Museum. Photograph: Andrew Watson/Getty Images

Kuching is not big on sights, but one venue not to miss isSarawak Museum, which has barely changed since it first opened in 1891, with an incredible collection of local flora and fauna, and a genuine insight into the indigenous tribes of the Borneo rainforest.

Local designer Jacqueline Fong has opened Tanoti Crafts, a workshop/boutique for young weavers that produces ethnic silk songket cloth, including affordable accessories like shawls and bags.

Tanoti Crafts

No one could fail to notice the large number of tattooed people in Kuching: body art is an integral part of the indigenous culture, especially the Iban, once also known for headhunting. Today, more than 20 tattoo studios draw in travellers. The man to visit is the world-renowned Ernesto Kalum, whose Borneo Headhunter studio (47 Wayang Street) offers both contemporary tattoos using modern machines and tribal designs created with the traditional tap technique.

For a less invasive insight into local life, book a course at Bumbu Cooking Class (about 28pp), where Joseph Jissin, from the Bidayuh tribe, takes small groups to the market to shop for ingredients from the jungle such as ferns and pineapples, colourful Malinjau nuts and fragrant pandan leaves, which everyone then cooks under his supervision before eating everything for lunch.

Where to eat

Prawn laksa, a traditional Sarawak dish. Photograph: Andrew Watson/Getty Images

Kuching is a foodie paradise, particularly the street food, where most dishes cost less than a pound. Begin at Chinatowns Seng Kee (main dishes about 90p, 37 Carpenter Street), where theres a choice of fishball soup, pork satay, Sarawak laksa, Chinese rice porridge with salted egg and preserved vegetables, or the adventurous kueh chap, a feast of slow-braised pork ribs and intestines.

In nearby Padungan Road, theres always a queue for Noodle Descendents (188 Padungan Road) which serves an awesome bowl of kolo mee, the favourite local dish of minced pork and noodles, served by a tiny lady who has been cooking here since 1957.

Top Spot food court is on top of a multi-storey car park. Photograph: BobSam

At night, the crowds head to Top Spot (main dishes from 1.80, Bukit Mata Street), an immense open-air food court on the roof of a car park. More than 500 diners sit at communal tables, ordering from neon-lit seafood stalls displaying live crabs, prawns, razor clams, wriggling squid, grouper, pomfret and parrot fish.

There are plenty of fine dining addresses too, from Asian fusion cuisine at Bla Bla Bla (27 Tabuan Street, mains 7) to excellent pasta and pizza at Junk (mains from 4, 80 Wayang Street), decorated with eclectic antiques collected by flamboyant chef George Ling. He also owns a row of Chinese shophouses, the latest being the lovingly preserved Barber Cafe just up the road, serving comfort food: tangy prawn soup, chilli burgers and healthy salads accompanied by a bloody mary or dirty martini.

Kuching street food stall. Photograph: John Brunton for the Guardian

But what is really exciting in Kuching right now is the rediscovery of the cuisine of Sarawaks indigenous tribes in creative restaurants such as Lepau (395 Ban Hock Road) and the.Dyak (29 Simpang Tiga Road). Dishes include manok lulun (chicken stewed in bamboo with tapioca leaves and herbs); umai (thinly sliced river fish marinated ceviche-style); and vegetables such as cangkuk manis (star gooseberry leaves) and midin (wild ferns).

Where to drink

The Monkeebar

For the best river views, take afternoon tea or sunset cocktails at the James Brooke Bistro (7 Tunku Abdul Rahman Street), which recalls the days of the white rajahs. Locals, though, tend to prefer freshly roasted coffee from beans grown on Sarawak plantations, at Black Bean Coffee (87 Ewe Hai Street). From early evening happy hour until well after midnight, the Drunk Monkey (68 Carpenter Street), in Chinatown, is Kuchings latest hot spot, though easily confused with the equally popular Monkeebar (12 Song Thian Cheok Street), owned by a conservation NGO that gives a third of its profits to an orang-utan conservation project. For live reggae and heavy metal, head for The Canteen (7 Tun Haji Openg Street) at weekends. And21 Bistro (64 Padungan Road) is a gritty bar where Filipino musicians entertain a raucous crowd: its the place to try a glass of tuak, lethal home-brewed rice wine.

Where to stay

The Ranee hotel

Kuching has plenty of modern five-star hotels, but a much more original place to stay is the Ranee (doubles from 53 B&B), a romantic boutique hotel in two former Chinese shophouses, decorated with antiques and tribal handicrafts. Just next door is a charming budget alternative, the Waterfront Lodge (doubles 21) with a traditional interior courtyard. There are a host of inexpensive backpacker hostels, such as Singgahsana Lodge (dorm bed 6.50, singgahsana.com), which has a rooftop bar with pool tables and occasional live music, or in Chinatown, the hip DIY Dorm (dorm bed 4.60) with its popular Wrong Place cafe.

Trips out of town

Bako national park. Photograph: ElenaMirage/Getty Images/iStockphoto

There are several destinations an hour or so from Kuching that offer an exciting taste of Borneos ancient rainforests (see sarawaktourism.com for contacts). Bako national park, the oldest and one of the smallest national parks, is reached by a steamy boat ride along the Santubong river (full day 55pp). Jungle trails weave past mangrove swamps and dense tropical vegetation, with several coming out at quiet sandy beaches on the South China Sea. For staying overnight, there are simple two-person jungle chalets to rent (about 30) or dorm beds (under 4), with the chance to go on after-dark treks.

Mother and baby orangutans at Semenggoh Wildlife Centre. Photograph: Grant Dixon/Getty/Lonely Planet

A trip to the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre (24) offers a rare opportunity to see orangutans in their natural habitat. Travellers need to understand though, that this is a rehabilitation centre for a species whose future is still seriously threatened, not a tourist attraction. Semenggohs 26 orang-utans roam free in the jungle and swing through the trees when forest wardens arrive for the twice-daily feeding. Visitors can respectfully watch in silence from a platform around 100 metres away.

The Night Market in Siniawan Old Town. Photograph: Chee Jiun Chong

Rarely mentioned in guidebooks is Siniawan Old Town whose night market held in an abandoned 1860s gold mining settlement makes an offbeat foodie escapade just 30km from Kuching (about 15pp). On Friday, Saturday and Sunday, from sunset till 11pm, this riverside ghost town of clapboard houses comes alive as scores of food stalls set up shop, frying noodles and vegetables, grilling fish, chicken wings and satay. Tables are set up all along the high street, under red Chinese lanterns, to cater for hundreds of hungry visitors.