#SMD board

[jalina268]

if you just engage in or somehow need this printed circuit assembly or custom another new one,welcome contact me to know more details

[strawberry-graveyard]

by the way. i love the username change. it's super cool

thank you!! it’s one of the first names we came up with and it’s just never left our head lmao

[pcbcircuit]

High-Quality PCB Manufacturing: Choosing the Right Materials

At Pcbcircuit, we specialize in high-quality PCB manufacturing, delivering precision-engineered solutions tailored to various industries needs. Our commitment to excellence is reflected in our state-of-the-art technology, stringent quality control processes, and experienced team of professionals. Choose Pcbcircuit for high-quality PCB manufacturing that combines innovation, efficiency, and unmatched quality—empowering your projects to succeed in today’s competitive market.

[purpletechnologies]

Arduino R3 SMD Micro Controller Board Kit | Diykit Solutions

Discover the Arduino R3 SMD Micro Controller Board Kit at Diykit Solutions! Unleash your creativity with high-quality DIY kits in electronics, robotics, and crafts sourced from trusted suppliers.

Arduino R3 SMD Micro Controller Board Kit

[singhsonia]

Affordable SMD PCB Assembly Services in Hyderabad

Looking for affordable SMD PCB board assembly in Hyderabad?Pcbcircuit offers high-quality, cost-effective solutions tailored to your project needs. With advanced technology and expert technicians, we ensure precise assembly and quick turnaround times. Whether for prototypes or large-scale production. Contact us today for a competitive quote!

[biggelectronics]

Exploring the Top 3 Arduino-Compatible Boards: Uno R3, UNO SMD, and Pro Micro

Arduino boards have become a popular tool for hobbyists and professionals alike to create a wide range of projects, from simple LED displays to complex robotics systems. With so many different Arduino-compatible boards available, it can be overwhelming to choose the right one for your project. In this blog post, we will take a closer look at three popular Arduino boards: the Uno R3 Board, the UNO SMD Board, and the Pro Micro.

Uno R3 Board:

The Uno R3 Board is one of the most popular Arduino-compatible boards available. It is based on the ATmega328P microcontroller and has 14 digital input/output pins, six analog inputs, and a 16 MHz quartz crystal oscillator. The Uno R3 Board also has a USB interface for programming and serial communication. It is a great board for beginners due to its ease of use and wide availability of resources and tutorials.

UNO SMD Board:

The UNO SMD Board is a smaller, surface-mount version of the Uno R3 Board. It is essentially the same as the Uno R3 Board, but it is more compact and uses surface-mount components instead of through-hole components. The UNO SMD Board has the same pinout and features as the Uno R3 Board, but it is smaller and more lightweight, making it a great choice for projects with limited space.

Pro Micro:

The Pro Micro is a compact, low-cost Arduino-compatible board that is great for small projects. It is based on the ATmega32U4 microcontroller and has 12 digital input/output pins, five analog inputs, and a 16 MHz quartz crystal oscillator. The Pro Micro also has a USB interface for programming and serial communication, and it is compatible with many Arduino libraries and software. The Pro Micro is particularly popular for projects that require a small footprint, such as wearables or small robots.

Conclusion

The Uno R3 Board, UNO SMD Board, and Pro Micro are all popular Arduino-compatible boards that have their own unique features and advantages. The Uno R3 Board is a great choice for beginners, while the UNO SMD Board is more compact and lightweight. The Pro Micro is an excellent choice for small projects that require a small form factor. Ultimately, the best board for your project will depend on your specific needs and requirements.

[szbrtlight]

Customized 50W 100W 120W 200W 240W 3000K 3500K 4000K 5000K Quantum Board Full Spectrum Samsung LM301H LM301B LED Grow Light PCB

[auberylis]

Reverse-engineered a serge gain cell that i have a while ago (and then found another person's schematic online, and they matched - good job us). Today i made a layout for it with smd parts. Here it is next to a DIL14 package for reference :3

I split the 8-pin header into two 4-pin headers, cause the one thing i dislike about ken stone style implementation is it's flimsily fixed to the board: it's one 8-pin header and an almost-square board sticking out perpendicular or laying parallel to the motherboard, IMO both options are unreliable unless you glue them up. So, two headers like this make sure that the board is securely fit to its motherboard.

Also this version has the power header rotated 90 degrees. There's a version where they are both vertical and yes the board looks prettier, but - think about it - serge designs always use a bunch of these, not one. So it makes sense to make it easier to run power through all of the gain cells like a skewer on one side, while breaking out the signal taps on the other side. It is a *slightly* less secure mount than two headers parallel, and definitely less pretty as a board, but i think it's good enough for such a huge improvement in board tracing ease.

VCFQ here i come!... next year probably

[recalledproduct]

Lol I soldered one good joint on the SMD, moved onto the second point and completely melted it off of the board

[trainsinanime]

Adventures in soldering

Do not click on the images to make them large. The iPhone 15 Pro Macro mode looks good at pretty much exactly Tumblr image size, and deteriorates rapidly if you look at all the pixels.

Anyway, I tried something weird. For the model railroad streetcar project that I keep talking about, I want to light up the destination display, and that works best if I can find a side-emitting LED that is at most 0.5mm but not very wide. The problem is that side emitting LEDs are rare; most standard electronic LEDs, in particular the tiny SMD ones, emit their light to the top, so I had a bit of a problem…

…until I remembered that any LED is side-emitting if you just put it on its side and solder it in like that. Which was amazingly basically no problem at all (note: Requires at least cheap precision ESD pliers and a binocular microscope and some experience). The LED has size 0402, which means 0.04 inches long and 0.02 inches wide, or in reasonable terms, a millimetre long and half a millimetre wide (and about as tall). There's a picture with the standard cent coin for scale, but all of that is very tiny.

I am happy to report that this worked on the first try, and I managed to not drop any LEDs or resistors, which goes to show: Soldering is a thing you get better at through practice. I certainly used to think I was no good at it just a couple of years ago.

As for the circuit board, I designed this a while ago specifically to challenge myself. I did manage to solder in the 0201 resistors, but I didn't have any 0201 LEDs, and now that I do have them, I have been too scared to use them yet with their weird contacts on the rear instead of sides.

By itself, this is functionally useless, but it means that I will be able to use this technique for the streetcar project. Next time I'll try taking better pictures, though.

[jonphaedrus]

let's build ANOTHER KEYBOARD, the 1up level 60: weird keycaps edition

this is a budget custom level60 board from 1up keyboards in turquoise with tecsee purple panda tactile switches, akko screw in stabilizers in transparent pink (which i happened to have leftovers of from my wife build), and then some wonky keycaps cobbled together from the idobao gradient oem keycap set (a cheaper version of drop's artifact bloom rainbow set), cherry profile de/qwertz keys from kp republic's international set, and one random constellation key from my xda profile constellation set that's filling the # space.

this time, let's talk keycaps.

my husband is working his way to b1 fluency in german so he'll have an easier time getting permanent residency after we move (i also need to study, since i... dont speak much german despite being a citizen) and it's been driving him crazy to have to enter ¨ with alt on his standard keyboard, so he asked me to build him a qwertz layout keyboard. so, for black friday i kept my eye out on sales.

what he wanted:

a 65% or smaller keyboard (no need for f-row, arrows, etc, since he'll be using it specifically for typing in german and will have his laptop accessible)

underglow, not show-through per-key rgb

he wanted that rainbow keycap set from drop real bad

qwertz keycaps

lighter tactiles than his current work board, which has akko jelly purples on it

something that would be small and light enough to hook up on his lap on the couch

so, i went through all the bf/cm sales and found 1up, and then showed him and he said "yes that's exactly what i want"

the hardest part of the buying process was picking switches, since he wanted both something cheap and something a little lighter than the jelly purple actuation, and i didnt want to buy from elsewhere when i could get them included with the 1up build. i was going to do gateron milkies (since he doesnt care about per-key) but they were sold out, and i've heard a lot of good stuff about panda tactiles, so i took the jump on the tecsee.

if you're wondering: they're just as nice as people say. they're really nide. they aren't as thunky and im sure they sound even better lubed & filmed, but they're silky smooth and light enough i can use them without wanting to die.

this is the third stacked acrylic board i've built, and i have to say, stacked acrylic is both really affordable and really nice to work with. there's a lot less fidgeting with making sure things fit in solid housings, and i enjoy the peeling sticky off of each layer process because i have ocd.

some glossary:

underglow: there are LEDs on the bottom side of the pcb

per-key rgb: there's an LED for each key, called per-key or smd LED, it all means the same thing. this means every key lights up. there are some switches that aren't built to fit smd boards, so always double check that you have ones with a gap to fit.

keycap profiles: the different alignment and ways that keycaps are made, including height, shape, curve, and edge. there are about a billion. there will be a section more in-depth later.

and this time, i remembered photos!

here's all the acrylic peeled and stacked, with the top side of the pcb, on my messy dining table. so you can see here, it's really easy to take these apart and put them back together—great for upkeep.

one of the really cool parts about this pcb is that it's hotswap (i.e., no soldering required, just stick the switches in) but the hotswaps are soldered in such a way as you can adjust the layout slightly for your preference. i'm not sure if you could set it up as an iso (i didn't check) but you can see here how it looks on the bottom row, where the pink line is one switch orientation and the blue line is the other

since this isn't a per-key rgb, that means there's no need to make sure there's space for a top-facing smd led, so the switches can be placed in either direction. which is super cool!

when installing switches on a hot swap board, you have to be really careful of pin alignment. the spaces that the pins go into in the hot swap can be jarred loose, and the pins, if bent, won't make connection, preventing the switch from working. here's an example of what bent pins look like

the top switch in both these photos has straight pins, the bottom in both photos has one bent pin. the good news is, bent pins are really easy to fix: you can usually bend them back with your fingers, if it's just a slight misalignment, or you can use tweezers.

to prevent bending, when you insert a switch, always press in the pin-side first. so if you look at the holes on the pcb above, a "north" facing pin insert (the pink line) you'd push in the top side of the switch first. a "south" (the blue line) you'd push in the bottom first. you can then flip the pcb over to check and make sure everything went in.

here's a close-up of hot swap sockets on the bottom of the pcb. the pink circles show where the pins are in the housings. success! all of these are inserted correctly.

once this board was built, it came time for the keycaps. as i said up top, this is a bit of a cobbled-together keycap set, in that there's a few different-height sets combined. so let's talk about.... keycaps.

there are about a billion different guides to keycap profiles. rather than rehash them here, i'm going to talk about the simple stuff, because i was so confused trying to figure this out.

there are, put simply, two different "styles" of keycaps, broken up into dozens of different profiles. there are "uniform" keycaps, where all the keys are the same height, and "sculpted", where the keys are staggered to shape the profile of the board to be taller at the top, lower in the middle, and rise again at the bottom. the most popular uniform keycap profiles are xda and dsa. the most popular sculpted keycap profiles are cherry and oem. you can find a whole bunch of other types and options, too. some companies (like tai hao and akko) tend to only produce certain profiles (tai hao and osa respectively)

here's a side by side of xda, oem, and cherry keycaps all in the same row. they're all slightly different heights, shapes, and sculpts.

in sculpted keycap profiles, each row is of a slightly different height. for qwety layouts that would be r1 (number row), r2 (qwerty row), r3 (home row), r4 (zxcv row), r5 (space/ctrl row). function row usually is either r1 or r5.

since this keyboard is a little cobbled together, keycaps wise, you can see here the different height of some of the keys. if you're looking into non-qwerty layouts, i'd suggest a uniform profile. you can get international inserts like the ones i got for my husband here, or buy the international sets for nor/de/fr, but you can also just buy dsa or xda and swap keys around as needed.

now, be aware when mixing and matching sets, unless you can guarantee that your keycap sets come from the same manufacturer (i.e., cannon keys, idobao, drop, etc... so if you aren't buying knockoffs or recolors) the printing may be slightly different. here are two different xda profile keycap sets, side by side.

you can see the constellation set is wider and a little flatter, while the night sakura set is taller and a little skinnier. they're both still xda, but the print is very slightly different. (in all fairness, the night sakura may actually be kam knockoffs, im not sure. they were advertised as xda, but they don't quite match the profile).

one of the other things keycaps will be marked as is PBT vs ABS—this is the variety of plastic they're made from. pbt is more sturdy. thats really all you need to know.

finally, there are what are called "doubleshot" and "show-through" keycaps. doubleshot means that the keycap is made from two different types of plastic, machined together, and it makes them a little more sturdy. most show-through keycaps are also doubleshot, but the lower plastic isn't the full body of the key, but a transparent layer to allow the light from the per-key rgb to show through.

finally, you can get what are called "artisan" keycaps. these are single keycaps, usually custom or small-run, and they can be made of ceramic, plastic, resin, glass, metal...etc. some are standard shapes, some arent.

from left to right, this is an oem r1, cherry r1, artisan from hirosart, and osa r1. as you can see, these are all very different heights and shapes. artisans are super cool (expensive) but also very fun. you should get one if you have a mechanical keyboard. they spark So much joy.

finally, here's a sound test. not plugged in because im lazy. sorry about the horrible flashing of my actual keyboard in the background (flashing light warning: please just listen if you want to hear the sound test and you're light sensitive)

[pcbcircuit]

Essential Tips for Efficient Two-Layer PCB Stencil

Please discover essential tips for achieving maximum efficiency with two-layer PCB stencils. From accurate alignment and stencil thickness selection to the right solder paste application techniques, this guide covers everything you need to know for precise, high-quality, two-layer PCB assembly.

[purpletechnologies]

Arduino R3 SMD Micro Controller Board Kit | Diykit Solutions

Discover the Arduino R3 SMD Micro Controller Board Kit at Diykit Solutions! Unleash your creativity with high-quality DIY kits in electronics, robotics, and crafts sourced from trusted suppliers.

Arduino R3 SMD Micro Controller Board Kit

[mediawallsolution]

COB LED vs. SMD LED, What is the Difference? Which is better?

SMD stands for Surface Mount Device, a type of LED packaging technology where LED chips are mounted directly onto a printed circuit board (PCB). This process involves packaging components like lamp cups, brackets, and crystal elements into different sizes of light beads. These beads are then attached to the PCB using high-speed SMT machines and high-temperature reflow soldering.

https://mediawallsolution.co.nz/cob-led-vs-smd-led/

[hitech-pcba]

Through Hole PCB Assembly

THT PCB Assembly Manufacturer – One-stop service

sales12@hitechpcb.com

What’s mean for Through Hole (THT) PCB Assembly and Surface Mount Technology（SMT）PCB Assembly ?

Surface Mount Technology (SMT) is necessary for PCB assembly. If the PCB has no through-hole components, Through Hole (THT) PCB Assembly is not needed.

SMT assembly: SMT stands for surface mount technology, which is a versatile PCB assembly technology. Currently, all electronic components can be made into surface-mounted devices (SMD). SMDs are interconnected to the PCB pads with solder paste. SMT assembly is automatic.

THT assembly: THT, or PTH or DIP, means through-hole technology. The electronic components that require THT assembly have long pins. Usually, they are capacitors, fuses, and connectors. The PCB is pre-drilled, and these components' pins plug in the holes and wave reflowed. THT assembly is manual.

In the PCB assembly process, SMT assembly happens before the THT assembly.

What are the benefits of Through Hole PCB assembly?

Through-Hole PCB Assembly comes with a range of benefits including:

Withstanding stress-As opposed to SMT components, through-hole components are known for their ability to withstand mechanical and environmental stress.

Perfect for large components-Through-hole works well for large components that have to undergo high power and high voltage

High heat tolerance-Known for their high heat tolerance, they find application in a number of industries, particularly military and aerospace.

Ease of Prototyping- Through-hole PCBs also lend themselves to ease of prototyping and improved reliability

High Reliability-Through-hole PCBs are best used for high-reliability products that require stronger connections between layers.

Little surprise then, that even though surface mount components allow for denser configurations, for larger and heavier components that require strong bonds, through-hole technology has remained resilient and relevant.

What are the capabilities you offer for Through Hole PCB assembly?

We provide through-hole PCB services to a variety of industries including medical, electronics, instrumentation, and military, all thanks to our complete assembly capabilities:

• Hand soldering 

• Dual wave flow solder

• Hand Insertion of components 

• Automate axial or radial insertion

• RoHS soldering using tin-lead solder

• Use of high and low melting point solder

• Prototype build to high-volume assembly

• Functional test and automated inspection

• Support various types of PCBs including metal core PCBs, Rigid PCBs, Flex-rigid PCBs, FR4 PCBs, etc.

Disadvantages of Through Hole Assembly

Like any other manufacturing or assembling techniques, Through Hole PCB Assembly has its disadvantages too.

These include:

Longer production time-It takes a lot of time to drill the multiple holes through which the leads are expected to run.

Expensive-because the drilling process is difficult and time-consuming, it increases the cost of production

Minimizes space on the boards-drilling the holes on the surface of the board limits the routing area for tracing signals.

Also, by feeding the leads through the board, only one of its sides is usable, thus making the THT PCB a bit slower in operation speeds.

Through Hole Assembly Components – What are the Best Components for Through Hole Assembly?

Radial lead components

Axial lead components.

Types of Through Hole PCB Assembly

There are two (2) main types of the Through Hole PCB Assembly. The first is the Automated Through Hole PCB Assembly. The second is the Manual Through Hole PCB Assembly.

On the one hand, the automated variant is roundly touted to be faster and cost-effective because it takes little time to be completed. It also demands little human inputs, which makes it cost-effective.

On the other hand, the manual Through Hole PCB Assembly involves the traditional or manually-operational model of drilling the holes into the Printed Circuit Boards (PCBs). This model tends to take time and attracts more costs.

Functional tests and automated inspection for Through Hole PCB Assembly

Using automated inspection is very critical in minimizing turnaround time to ensure timely delivery of the boards.

Conclusion

As you can see, Through Hole Assembly of PCB can be time consuming.

However, in some applications, it is worth it more so when mounting heavier and bulkier components.

You can easily achieve the strength by soldering the components on the reverse side as you have seen.

In fact, it is virtually impossible to pull components assembled using Through Hole Assembly.

The good news, today’s guide has simplified the Through Hole PCB Assembly technique.

Do you have questions or inquiries on Through Hole Assembly process?

Contact us now.   sales@hitechpcb.com

In addition to through hole PCB assembly, we also provide value-added services, such as conformal coating, labeling, and complete PCB encapsulation.

Through-hole PCB Assembly Testing and Inspection at Hitechpcba

In-Circuit Testing: 

This type of testing is conducted for high volume production lines, and helps us check every minute soldering and other components in detail.

Automated Optical Inspection: Abbreviated as AOI, these tests are performed to ensure that product is free from soldering, component, and BGA defects.

Automated X-Ray Inspection(AXI): 

This testing is performed to inspect insufficient fills, short circuits, fills, etc. The automated X-ray inspection helps reduce the number of defects and improve the quality of the Through-Hole circuit.

Burn-in Tests: 

These tests detect components’ failure or reliability in real environments.

Assisted Visual Inspection: 

Our experts use a wide range of advanced visual inspection equipment to perform a detailed inspection of soldering and component placement accuracy.

What’s difference between SMT assembly and THT assembly?

Most contract PCB Assembly manufacturers concentrate on their surface mount technology capabilities for PCB assembly. The SMT lines can be almost completely automated making it possible to run a high volume of boards with little human intervention and a low cost per board. Through whole assembly whether automated or manual is a slower process, it takes resources away from the high-volume business that many manufacturers prefer.

Only about 10 percent of the parts we buy are through-hole. Nearly 75 percent of the boards we run are mixed technology, which is a combination of through-hole and SMT parts one reason for this is that nearly half of our board assemblies are for high powered boards which use capacitors inductors and transformers to transfer energy. The size of these components is proportional to the energy they can store so for a high-power board we need to use some fairly large and heavy components and that means through-hole technology, in addition things like customer accessible connectors, that have to withstand stress as cables are connected and removed are likely to be through-hole components. Through-hole components are held in place by the pins as well as the solder so you can get a much stronger and more reliable mechanical bond than with surface mount components that have only solder to hold them in place. If a contract manufacturer is focused on higher volume SMT business, it's important to understand how they will handle through-hole components when you need them at z-axis. We run mixed technology boards every day we have a modern stuff line with a paperless process for assembly instructions and assemble in a single piece flow from the stuff line to a wave solder to inline inspection, d-paneling, qc testing. 

In addition to PCB Assembly, be it through hole or surface mount, at Hitech Circuits Co., Limited we also undertake PCB assembly rework offering complete reliability, high quality and optimal costs. Not only are we well-versed in inventory management, fabrication and process control, we also have a stringent control on vendor component management.