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[hydraulichoses]

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[otrstore]

51 MM Inlet Cone style CNC Tip Stainless Steel Universal Slip-On Without DB Killer for Loud Exhaust note Mid Size 51 MM Inlet Cone style CNC Tip Stainless Steel Universal Slip-On Without DB Killer for Loud Exhaust note Mid Size. Made from High Quality Rust-Free Stainless with detailed attention to quality and finishing. Comes with Laser Brand Logo/ Sticker. Cost effective Replica Replacement. Can be Installed on any motor vehicle with exhaust pipe size between 38MM to 51MM (1.5 to 2 inches). Comes with all required fitment. Bike Specific Slip-On/ Mid-pipe/ Header to be purchased seperately. Please don not expect Hayabusa like sound on single cylinder Indian bikes by changing to this muffler. Can be fitted on Yamaha R15, TVS Apache RTR, Honda CBR, Unicorn, Hornett, Bajaj Pulsar, Dominar, Unicorn, Suzuki Gixxer, Hero Karizma, Hunk, Xtreme, Kawasaki Ninja, ZX6r, ZX10R, ZX14R, Honda CBR600, CBR1000, Yamaha R3, R1, R6, MT, FZ, Suzuki GSX600, GSX750, GSX1000, BENElli TNT300 TNT 600i, 302, TRK, GT600, KTM Duke, RC, BMW G310, Triumph daytona, Street Triple, Ducati Monster, Diavel Panigale, etc

[ghost-cinnamon]

Since I crocheted Error last time I wanted to crochet Ink so they could hold hands :3

If you also want to crochet him I attached my pattern below

Have fun crocheting :)

Ink Sans

Abbreviations

R - Row

Rd - Round

ch - chain

ss - slip stitch

sc - single crochet

hdc - half double crochet

dc - double crochet

trc - treble/triple crochet

inc - increase

dec - decrease

flo - front loops only

bl - back loops

[…] x2/3/6 - repeat what is inside the brackets 2/3/6 times

(…) - the number inside of the brackets is the number of stitches that round is supposed to have

Legs x2

Rd1: 6sc into Magic Ring

Rd2: 6inc

Rd3: [1sc, inc]x6

Rd4-18: sc around

don’t tie off the second leg, connect it to the other leg with a ss

Rd19-21: sc around (36sc)

Change color to black

Rd22-30: sc around

Rd31: 2sc, Dec, 5sc, Dec, sc,Dec, 6sc, Dec,6sc, Dec, sc, Dec,3sc

Rd32: 8sc, 3dec,7sc, 3dec, 3sc

Rd33: 7sc, 2dec, 2sc, 2dec, 2sc, 2dec, 1sc

Rd34: [1sc, Dec]x6

Rd35: sc around (12sc)

3sc to middle of the back and change color to white

Rd36: [1sc, inc] x6

Rd37: [2sc, inc] x6

Rd38: [3sc, inc] x6

Rd39: [4sc, inc] x6 *fertig

Rd40: [5sc, inc] x6

Rd41: [6sc, inc] x6

Rd42: [7sc, inc] x6

Rd43-47: sc around

Rd48: [7sc, Dec] x6

Rd49: sc around

Rd50: [6sc, Dec] x6

Rd51: sc around

Rd52: [5sc, Dec] x6

Rd53: [4sc, Dec] x6

Rd54: [3sc, Dec] x6

Rd55: [2sc, Dec] x6

Rd56: [1sc, Dec] x6

Rd57: 6 Dec

Arms x2

Rd1: 6sc into Magic ring

Rd2: 6inc

Change color to brown

Rd3-4: sc around

Change color to black

Rd5-18: sc around

Toes x2

R1: ch7

R2: 6sc

Sew body together and add the face

Pants

Rd1: ch31

Rd2: ss into first chain, 30sc

Rd3-4: sc around

Rd5: [8sc, Dec] x3

Rd6-7: sc around

Rd8: [7sc, Dec] x3

Rd9-11: sc around

Rd12: [6sc, Dec] x3

Rd13: sc around

Don’t tie off the second pant leg, connect with ss to other pant leg

Rd14-15: sc around

Rd16: [12sc, Dec] x3

Rd17: [11sc, Dec] x3

Rd18: 16sc, flo 9sc, ch1, turn

R19: 9sc, ch1, turn

R20: 9sc, ch1, turn

R21: 9sc, ch1, turn

R22: 9sc

Suspenders x2

R1: ch21

R2: 20sc

Sew the suspenders to the pants

Shirt

Panels x2

R1: ch17

R2-12: 16sc, ch1, turn

R13: 13sc, ch1, turn

R14: 10sc, ch1, turn

Sleeves x2

Rd1: ch13

Rd2: ss into first chain, 12sc

Rd3-7: sc around

Rd8: 6sc, ch1, turn, 6sc, ch1, turn, 12sc to end of round

Rd9: sc around

Sew everything together

(The white wool I had was thinner than the rest of the wool that I used. So now the stitches are bigger than I would’ve liked but if you use the right wool it should be fine)

Crop top

Panels x2

R1: ch19

R2: 18sc, ch1, turn

Change color to brown

R3-4: 18sc, ch1, turn

R5: 15sc, ch1, turn

R6: 12sc, ch1, turn

R7: trc, dc, 2hdc, 4sc, 2hdc, dc, trc

Scarf

R1: ch6

R2-90: 5sc, ch1, turn

Brush

Rd1: 3sc into magic ring

Rd2: 3inc

Rd3: [1sc, inc] x3

Rd4: [2sc, inc] x3

Rd5: [3sc, inc] x3

Rd6: [4sc, inc] x3

Change color to brown

Rd7: [5sc, inc] x3

Rd8: [6sc, inc] x3

Rd9-11: sc around

Rd12: [2sc, dec] x6

Change color to yellow

Rd13: flo sc around

Rd14: sc around in the previously unworked bl of the last brown row

Change color to beige

Rd15-30: sc around

Change color to yellow

Rd31: flo sc around

Rd32: sc around in the previously unworked bl of the last beige row

Change color to beige

Rd33-36: sc around

Rd37: 6dec

Belt

R1: ch4

R2-46: 3sc, ch1, turn

Sew the ends together to make a loop

R1: ch4

R2-11: 3sc, ch1, turn

Sew onto loop (this will be where the brush is being held)

Optionally you can cut out the vials out of felt and sew them onto the front of the belt

Now just dress your Ink and finished

Now he‘ll be able to hold hands with your Error :>

You’ll find the crochet pattern for Error here

You can slo find the pattern for classic here

This is my second ever pattern so if you have any questions feel free to ask me and I’ll try to clear things up. Have fun :)

[aryamistwood]

Erissa's Doll

It's finally done! Here is my take of Erissa's dolls..or puppets? Do we know what SSO is calling them yet? I admit, I messed up the proportions a bit and it isn't exact to the game model, but I'm still so proud and think it came out really cute! This was the first time I made my own pattern, and while there are things I think I would do differently next time, I'm still pretty happy with her!

Free Amigurumi Pattern below!

DISCLAIMER! This is my first pattern, so it may read rough. These are the exact steps I used to make the doll in the picture, but feel free to modify to look closer to the original.

MATERIALS

Weight 4 in 3 colors. I don't have exact amounts because this yarn came from my stash of rug yarn. Definitely less than a full ball, probably about 1/3 to 1/2. I believe it was Loops and Threads brand. The bows used a very small amount, less than a fist's size each.

4mm crochet hook

tapestry needle

safety eyes or buttons

stuffing material

LEGEND

r# - round/row

mc - magic circle

inc - increase

sc - single crochet

fo - fasten off (pull the tail through to knot)

ch - chain

dec - decrease (I used the invisible decrease, where you pull up the inside loops only of the 2 stitches you're decreasing)

slst - slip stitch

LEGS (make 2)

r1 - mc 4sc [4] r2 - inc x4 [8] r3 - (inc, 3sc) x2 [10] r4 - (inc, 4sc) x2 [12] r5 - (inc, 5sc) x2 [14] r6 - (inc, 6sc) x2 [16] r7 - 16sc [16] r8 - (inc, 7sc) x2 [18] r9 - 18sc [18] r10 - (inc, 8sc) x2 [20] r11 - 20sc [20] r12 - (inc, 9sc) x2 [22] r13 - 22sc [22] r14 - (inc, 10sc) x2 [24]

Don’t FO the first leg, leave a hands length tail.

After you finish the second leg, chain 2 and join with the unfinished loop of the first leg.

sc once into the next stitch on the first leg, and then sc 2x into the side of the chain 2.

Rejoin leg 2 with a sc and continue to sc around leg 2.

Continue to sc down the chain and around the next leg. You should have about 52-54 stitches in this round, give or take. Consider the point where you rejoined the second leg after coming back on the side of the chain 2 the start of your round.

NOTE: About here on, your stitch counts might not match mine, and that's okay. The rest isn’t so precise, so if it looks good to you, you’re good!

BODY (continuing from last step)

r1 - r3 - sc around (54)

Stuff the legs.

This is where we start decreasing. On each “decrease round”, you’re going to DEC at the front and back of (for lack of a better term) the crotch.

r4 - (25sc, dec) x2 [52] r5 - 52sc [52] r6 - (24sc, dec) x2 [50] r7 - 50sc [50] r8 - (23sc, dec) x2 [48] r9 - 48sc [48] r10 - (22sc, dec) x2 [46] r11 - 46sc [46] r12 - (21sc, dec) x2 [44] r13 - 44sc [44] r14 - (9sc. dec) x4 [40] r15 - (8sc, dec) x4 [36]

Another reminder to stuff here.

r16 - (7sc, dec) x4 [32] r17 - (6sc, dec) x4 [28] r18 - (5sc, dec) x4 [24] r19 - (4sc, dec) x4 [20]

FO and leave a long tail for sewing (2 hands length)

HEAD

r1 - mc 6sc [6] r2 - 6inc [12] r3 - (1sc, inc) x6 [18] r4 - (2sc, inc) x6 [24] r5 - (3sc, inc) x6 [30] r6 - (4sc, inc) x6 [36] r7 - (5sc, inc) x6 [42] r8 - (6sc, inc) x6 [48] r9 - (7sc, inc) x6 [54] r10 - (8sc, inc) x6 [60] r11-18 60sc [60] r19 - (8sc, dec) x6 [54]

If you are adding safety eyes, add them between rows 17 and 18, about 12 stitches apart

r20 - (7sc, dec) x6 [48] r21 - (6sc, dec) x6 [42] r22 - (5sc, dec) x6 [36] r23 - (4sc, dec) x6 [30] r24 - (3sc, dec) x6 [24] r25 - (2sc, dec) x6 [18] r26 - (1sc, dec) x6 [12]

FO and leave a few inches to weave in

Stuff firmly and sew to body, stuffing the joint as you close it. Be careful to line your stitches up so the eyes face forward, and don't list to the left like mine did.

ARMS (make 2)

r1 - mc 4sc [4] r2 - inc x4 [8] r3 - (inc, 3sc) x2 [10] r4 - (inc, 4sc) x2 [12] r5 - (inc, 5sc) x2 [14] r6 - (inc, 6sc) x2 [16] r7 - 16sc [16] r8 - (inc, 7sc) x2 [18] r9-13 - 18sc [18]

So at this point, I know it would be more accurate to attach the arms fluffed and sewn a bit open to the body…but I decided to lightly stuff and slst the opening closed, leaving a tail for sewing.

BOWS (make 2 in different colors)

r1 - ch36, slst into first chain to close the loop, making sure the chain doesn’t twist [36] r2 - (into the sides of the chain) ch1, sc35 [36] r3-10 sc36 [36]

slst and weave the ends.

With the same color, we’re going to make the bow’s knot.

r1 - ch 11 [11] r2 - sc in the second stitch from the hook and down the remaining 9 stitches, ch1 and turn [10] r3-4 - 10sc, ch1, turn [10] r5 - fold your work so the short ends touch and slst to join down the short side [4]

Leave a long tail for sewing.

To assemble, scrunch/gather the first part of the bow you made and slide it through the “knot” with the openings at the top and bottom. Rolling it up and twisting helps. Then fluff out the sides so it looks how you like.

Then assemble! Your head should already be attached. Go ahead and add the arms about 6 rows down from the head connection, or place them visually. Attach the bows to the top using the tail from the knot. Fluff the bows and you're done!

[eldritchgriffin]

Shadow the Hedgehog Scarf Pattern

Some people said they wanted the Sonic Speed Simulator character scarves in real life, so I made the Shadow Scarf!

I wrote up the pattern below the cut, so you can create your own!

This is a crochet pattern based on the Shadow Scarf model designed by Gamefam. You may use anything you make from this however you like, but please credit me if you redistribute the pattern. You may not sell the pattern. I will not stop you from selling items created from the pattern, but you should check Gamefam’s and Sega’s policies for fanworks first to avoid copyright infringement. You may modify this pattern, and share modified versions of it. You may not sell modified versions of this pattern.

Tools and materials:

Crochet hooks in sizes N, K, and G

Yarn needle

Super bulky (6) weight yarn in your main color (black if you’re making Shadow). It took almost an entire 160 yard skein. I used Lion Hometown in South Dakota Black.

Super bulky (6) weight yarn in your secondary color (red if you’re making Shadow). I used Lion Hometown in Tampa Spice.

Super bulky (6) weight yarn in white. I used Lion Hometown in New York White.

Medium/worsted (4) weight yarn in brown/tan. I used Lion Basic Stitch Anti Pilling in Cedarwood.

Stuffing

Abbreviations:

R - Round

Sk - skip

Ch - Chain

Slp - slip stitch

Hdc - Half-double crochet

Fhdc - Foundation half-double crochet

Blo - Back loop only

Sc - Single crochet

Inc - increase (single crochet)

Dec - decrease (single crochet)

Inv-dec - invisible decrease (single crochet)

Sc3tog - single crochet 3 together

[something] * 6 - repeat “something” 6 times

Alternate techniques:

The listed stitches are the ones I used. However, as some of them are a bit tricky, there are substitutions that can be made. Any invisible decrease may be replaced by a standard decrease. A magic ring may be replaced by chaining 4, slip stitching to the farthest chain from the hook, then chaining one (for height) and working stitches into the center of the chain-ring like you would a magic ring; note that this will leave a hole in the center of your circle, which you may want to cover with the tail while weaving in the ends. Also, the foundation half-double crochets may be replaced by adding a starting chain as follows:

Row 0: Ch 5 in red; change to black, ch 5; change to red, ch 5; change to black, ch 77 (75 + 2 for height), turn.

Then simply use regular half-double crochets instead of the foundation stitches, beginning in the third chain from the hook.

I have tried to make this easy to follow, but if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out to me, and I will do my best to answer them.

Pattern, scarf:

Starting with black yarn (N hook) Row 1: Fhdc 75 in black. Change to red, fhdc 5. Change to black, fhdc 5. Change to red, fhdc 5. Ch 2 and turn. Row 2: Hdc 5. Change to black, hdc 5. Change to red, hdc 5. Change to black, hdc 75. Ch 2 and turn. Row 3: Hdc-blo 75. Change to red, hdc-blo 5. Change to black, hdc-blo 5. Change to red, hdc-blo 5. Ch 2 and turn. Rows 4-5: Repeat Rows 2-3. Row 6: Hdc 75 in black. Change to red, hdc 5. Change to black, hdc 5. Change to red, hdc 5. Finish off and weave in ends

Head:

Starting with white yarn (K hook) R1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, then sc 6 in the ring. R2: Inc 6 R3: [sc 1, inc 1] * 6 R4: [sc 2, inc 1] * 6 R5: [sc 3, inc 1] * 6. Change to black R6: [sc 4, inc 1] * 6 R7: [sc 5, inc 1] * 6 R8-9: Sc 42 R10: [sc 5, dec 1] * 6 R11: [sc 4, dec 1] * 6 R12: [sc 3, dec 1] * 6 R13: [sc 2, dec 1] * 6. Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Forehead/top of eyes:

With black yarn (K hook) R1: Sc 6 in MR R2: Inc 6 R3: [sc 1, inc] * 6 R4: [sc 2, inc] * 6 R5: [sc 3, inc] * 6. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Large spikes (create 2):

With black yarn (K hook) Ch 8 Row 1: Ch 1 and turn, dec 1, sc 4, dec 1 Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, sc 1, dec 2, sc 1 Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, inc 1, dec 1, inc 1 Row 4: Ch 1 and turn, sc 1, sc3tog, sc 1 Without chaining, slp to the farthest stitch from the hook. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Small spike:

With black yarn (K hook) Ch 6 Row 1: Ch 1 and turn, sc 1, dec 2, sc 1 Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, inc 1, dec 1, inc 1 Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, sc 1, sc3tog, sc 1 Without chaining, slp to the farthest stitch from the hook. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Red, lower spike:

With red yarn (K hook) Row 1: Ch 2, 2 sc in second ch from hook Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, sc 1, inc 1 Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, sc 3 Row 4: Ch 1 and turn, sc 3. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew to one of the large spikes, attaching the first row of the red portion to the final row of the black portion.

Red, middle spike:

With red yarn (K hook) Row 1: Ch 2, 2 sc in second ch from hook Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, sc 1, inc 1 Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, sc 2, inc 1 Row 4: Ch 1 and turn, sc 4 Row 5: Ch 1 and turn, dec 2. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew to one of the large spikes, attaching the first row of the red portion to the final row of the black portion.

Red, forehead/upper spike:

With red yarn (K hook) Ch 10 Row 1: Ch 1 and turn, sc 10 Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, sc 10 Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, sc 6 Row 4: Ch 1 and turn, dec 1, sc 2, dec 1 Row 5: Ch 1 and turn, dec 2 Row 6: Ch 1 and turn, dec. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Face:

With tan yarn (G hook) Ch 26 Row 1: Ch 1 and turn, [sc 2, dec 1] * 6, sc 2. Ch 1 and turn Row 2: sc 20, finish off Row 3: Slp to join in 6th stitch, sc 8, slp 1 Row 4: Ch 1 and turn, sk 1, slp 1, sc 7, slp 1 Row 5: Ch 1 and turn, sk 1, slp 1, sc 1, dec 1, sc 1, dec 1, sc 1, slp 1 Row 6: Ch 1 and turn, sk 1, slp 1, sc 3, slp 1 Row 7: Ch 1 and turn, sk 1, slp 1, dec 1, slp 1. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Ears (Create 2 in black and 2 in tan):

With black yarn (K hook) With tan yarn (G hook) Ch 3 Row 1: Ch 1 and turn, sc 3 Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, sc3tog. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Assembly:

Start by sewing the forehead onto the main head. Next, sew the spikes to the right side of the head, starting from the bottom and attaching each right above the previous one; stuff the lower two spikes before finishing attachment. Add the upper red stripe with the large triangular portion in the center of the forehead and the side portion attached to the upper spike, stuffing the upper spike before closing it. Sew on the face (you may want to create the mouth before attaching the face if you dislike sewing through multiple layers).

Using red yarn, embroider on the red “eyeliner” using a backstitch. Use one line of backstitching along the top of the eyes and two lines of backstitching along the sides of the eyes, trying to cover the join between the white and black. Use black yarn and a satin stitch to create the nose and the pupils; you can also cut ovals out of felt and sew them on if you prefer. Backstitch with the black yarn to make the mouth.

Sew the tan parts of the ears to the black parts, then attach the ears to the head. Finally, attach the head to the black end of the scarf, stuffing the head before closing the gap completely.

[that-lynx-named-breeze]

Here's the KinitoPet Pattern!

(Also, shoutout to @rateater2000 for their funny antics)

(Also also, this is my first pattern that i've posted publicaly, so sorry if it's not the best ^^;)

(Also also also, once you're done, you can send a photo of them in the reblogs. I'd love to see it :))) /gen /nf)

What you’ll need: - 4-ply yarn in pink, darkish pink, black, and white. - Stuffing - 3.5 mm hook - Tapestry needle

Crochet Terms: SC – Single Crochet INC – Increase DEC – Decrease 3SC1 – 3 Single Crochet in one stitch SC3TOG – Single Crochet 3 stitches together [x] x – repeat a certain amount of times MR – Magic Ring R – Round/Row ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Head (Pink) R1- MR of 6SC (6) R2- [INC] x6 (12) R3- [SC, INC] x6 (18) R4- [2SC, INC] x6 (24) R5-8 SC (24) R9 [2SC, DEC] x6 (18) (stuff) R10 [SC, DEC] x6 (12) R11 [DEC] x6 (6)

External Gills (Darkish Pink)(Make 6) R1- MR of 4SC (4) R2-7 SC (4)

Legs (Black)(Make 2) R1- MR of 6SC (6) R2- 4 SC (6)(stuff and keep stuffing) R5- 3SC1, SC, SC3TOG, SC (6) R6- SC, 3SC1, SC, SC3TOG (6) R7-9- SC (6)

Eyes (White)(Make 2) R1- MR of 6SC (6) (For the pupils, you can just emborder black yarn into the white parts)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

AAAAAAANNNDD You're done! Now you have a Best Friend FOREVER!!! :D

[karkod-art]

Since @lukewarmhomie asked how I made the hood of my raccoon hoodie,

> How to make a crochet hood

Disclaimer: This is not a full tutorial, only guidelines on how to make a crochet hood. It is not meant for beginners.

Disclaimer 2: Sorry it's too math for you, I'm a mathematics undergrad so

1. Measurements

Pick your favorite hoodie! Measure:

Note that A is an approximate measure

2. Main part

R0: Chain until you reach measurement A, let's call X that number of chains. ch 1 (don't make it tight since we'll add stitches here). sc in the back loops of the chain, X in total. You should have 2X+1 stitches: X in each side and one chain in one end.

R1: ch 1, turn, sc X, inc in the ch, sc X.

R2: ch 1, turn, sc on top of every stitch (2X + 2 total)

R3: ch1, turn, sc X, 2 inc, sc X

R4: ch1, turn, sc on top of every stitch (2X + 4 total)

R5: ch1, turn, sc X+1, 2 inc, sc X+1

R6: ch1, turn, sc on top of every stitch (2X + 6 total)

R7-R?: Repeat rows 5 and 6 until you reach measurement B. Note that at every odd row the number of sc goes up by 2 (the numbers in red increase!!), since the hood gets bigger and the increases should be at the middle.

Once you reach measurement B, work an even number of sc rows until you reach measurement C. These measurement are taken with a folded hood so keep that in mind when you measure your progress.

3. Cord

If you already have a cord, skip this part. Otherwise use this (https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4tGB1DOXL7/?igsh=MWprYjhtbGd2bjNrZQ==) tutorial on how to make a crochet cord.

4. Ribbed part

It's worked basically as a cuff ribbing, only that it is later folded and it must have holes to pass the cord. You can adjust the size by modifying the number of chains at the start.

R0: ch 8

R1: ch1, turn, sc blo 8

R2: sl st in the next 2 st, turn, sc blo 8

R3-R?: Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you are done. You'll have to leave two holes for the cord, I've done them in the fifth row (counting from the beginning and from end, so you'll have to predict what is going to be your 5-th last row or like me undo it after it's done).

First hole round (R5): ch1, turn, sc 5, ch 2, sk 2, sc 1

Second hole round (5-th last):

If you are working from outside to the main part of the hood: ch1, turn, sc 5, ch 2, sk 2, sc 1

If you are working from the main part of the hood to the outside: sl st 2, turn, sc 1, ch 2, sk 2, sc 5

5. Assembly

Pass the cord through the holes (otherwise it's gonna be more complicated later!). Then fold the ribbed part and sew it together:

6. Extra

I added ears to my hood, since it was part of a raccoon hoodie ^^

To join the hood, I did sc in the bottom of the hood the same number of stitches that the body panels had in the neck, and then simply used slip stitches to join them.

Hope you found this tutorial helpful!!

[ms-paints-sometimes]

a while ago i knitted nepeta's hat from homestuck and i just remembered that there's a pattern on my deviantart but i'm never active on there so i thought i'd share it here!!

disclaimer: i am aware this is not canon-accurate. it's my own design inspired by the original disclaimer 2: idk much about yarn weights or size charts. this is by no means a professional pattern. i'm just writing down what i did incase someone wants to do it too

pattern under keep reading!!

tools & materials: circular knitting needles (i used 3,5mm) a crochet hook (for the edging, mine is 4,5mm) a sewing needle blue, orange, red and yellow yarn (i'm unsure of how much exactly is needed, but it's less than a ball each) 8 stitch markers (it doesn't have to be anything fancy, i literally used safety pins)

abbreviations used: r[n] - row number k - knit p - purl mk1r - make one right (tutorial) mk1l - make one left (tutorial) k2tog - knit two stitches together (tutorial) ssk - slip, slip, knit (tutorial)

ear flaps (make 2): cast on 7 stitches r1: p7 r2: p1, mk1r, k untill 2 stitches before the end of the row, mk1l, p1 r3: k1, p until 1 stitch before the end, k1 repeat rows 2 and 3 for 12 rows (you should have 21 stitches by then) r4: k1, p until 1 stitch before the end, k1 r5: p1, k until 1 stitch before the end, p1 repeat rows 4 and 5 for 10 rows do not cast off

hat: (tip: when knitting on circular needles, place a stitch marker at the beggining of the row) put the 1st ear flap on circular needles, cast on 18 stitches, put the 2nd flap on, cast on 28 stitches knit for 35 rows r36: *k11, place stitch marker*, repeat between ** until the end of the row r37: *k untill 2 before stitch marker, k2tog, put stitch marker on right needle*, repeat between ** until the end of the row r38: k whole row repeat rows 37 and 38 for 20 rows (you should have 8 stitches left) cast off, leave a tail and sew up the top 

horns (make 4): cast on 15 stitches with red yarn r1-r5: k r6: k2tog, k13, ssk switch to orange yarn r7-r9: k r10: k2tog, k11, ssk r11: k r12: k2tog, k9, ssk switch to yellow yarn r13: k r14: k2tog, k5, ssk r15: k r16: ktog, k3, ssk r17: k r18: k2tog, k1, ssk cast off

sew together 2 horn peices and stuff them with scrap yarn/stuffing, then sew onto hat (i recommend pinning it first, so you're sure of the placement)

stars (make 4): stars were made following this pattern, exept i purled uneven rows (1, 3, 5, ect) sew 2 stars together, purl side out. stuff them with scrap yarn/stuffing

border: with a crochet hook and orange yarn, crochet a border around the edges of the hat. this is opional but makes the edges not curl up. i don't know much about crochet so i can't rlly explain this part

chain about 30 stitches with a crochet hook and make a border around the stars. do this twice for both ear flaps

if y'all have any questions lmk in the comments and i'll try to answer!! :3

[postsofbabel]

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[ldrfanatic]

Writing Prompts (from my top favorite taylor swift albums)

how to read/request: the letter at the beginning of each prompt represents the album key below. The number attached is to distinguish the lyrics.

key: t - tortured poets; r - reputation; f - folklore; l - lover;

you can request as many prompts as you’d like!

example request:

t16 & f12 for theodore nott

tortured poets

t1 - "I'm having his baby" no I'm not but you should see your faces

t2 - the coward claimed he was a lion

t3 - "I'll never leave" Nevermind

t4 - You know how to ball I know Aristotle

t5 - Who's gonna know you like me?

t6 - Everything comes out teenage petulance

t7 - If I can't have us, I might just not get up

t8 - two graves, one gun

t9 - I'm just getting color back into my face

t10 - If you wanted me dead, you should've just said

t11 - Is it a wonder I broke, let's hear one more joke

t12 - I was tame, I was gentle

t13 - I'm always drunk on my own tears

t14 - I'm fearsome, and I'm wretched, and I'm wrong

t15 - what we thought was for all time, was momentary

t16 - Did you sleep with a gun underneath our bed?

t17 - Who are we to fight the alchemy?

t18 - Cause the sign on your heart said it's still reserved for me

t19 - This town is fake but you're the real thing

t20 - They said "Babe you gotta fake it till you make it" And I did

t21 - He said he'd love me for all time

-

reputation

r1 - In my dreams, you should see the things we do

r2 - You and me would be a big conversation

r3 - I'm one call away whenever you need me

r4 - I don't wanna be just another ex love

r5 - You've been calling the bluff on all my usual tricks

r6 - They say I did something bad, then why's it feel so good?

r7 - don't blame me, love made me crazy

r8 - my drug is my baby, I'll be using for the rest of my life

r9 - For you I would fall from grace, just to touch your face

r10 - If you walk away, I'd beg you on my knees to stay

r11 - I'm yours to keep and I'm yours to lose

r12 - You know I'm not a bad girl but I do bad things with you

r13 - I'm so chill, but you make me jealous

r14 - You ruined my life by not being mine

r15 - Guess I'll just stumble on home to my cat. Alone. Unless you wanna come along?

r16 - You had turned my bed into a sacred oasis

r17 - I'm a mess but I'm the mess that you wanted

r18 - My hands are shaking from holding back from you

r19 - I don't want you like a best friend

r20 - Only bought this dress so you could take it off

r21 - I want to wear his initial on a chain 'round my neck. Not because he owns me, but cause he really knows me.

r22 - You don't need to save me, but would you run away with me?

-

folklore

f1 - If you wanted me you really should've showed

f2 - If my wishes came true, it would've been you

f3 - If one thing had been different, would everything be different today?

f4 - I knew you leaving like a father running like water

f5 - You drew stars around my scars but now I'm bleeding

f6 - I knew you'd linger like a tattoo kiss

f7 - I knew to love would be to lose my mind

f8 - I knew you you'd come back to me

f9 - I had a marvelous time ruining everything

f10 - I loved you, I swear I loved you, til my dying day

f11 - You can aim for my heart go for blood, but you would still miss me in your bones

f12 - I'm still trying everything to keep you looking at me

f13 - Love you to the moon and to Saturn

f14 - Then you won't have to cry. Or hide in the closet.

f15 - Passed down like folk songs, our love lasts so long

f16 - I didn't know if you'd care if I came back

f17 - I just wanted you to know, that this is me trying

f18 - It's hard to be anywhere these days when all I want is you

f19 - You showed me colors you know I can't see with anyone else

f20 - You know damn well for you I would ruin myself

f21 - Don't want no other shade of blue but you

-

lover

L1 - I forgot that you existed, and I thought that it would kill me but it didn't

L2 - It isn't love, it isn't hate it's just indifference

L3 - What doesn't kill me makes me want you more

L4 - I don't wanna keep secrets just to keep you

L5 - I love you, aint that the worst thing you ever heard?

L6 - He looks up grinning like a devil

L7 - This is our place, we make the rules

L8 - Have I known you 20 seconds or 20 years?

L9 - Can I go where you go?

L10 - I'm so sick of running as fast as I can

L11 - I've got a hundred thrown out speeches I almost said to you

L12 - Help me hold onto you

L13 - Who could ever leave me darling, but who could stay?

L14 - They see right through me. I see right through me. Can you see right through me?

L15 - All the king's men, couldn't put me together again

L16 - All of my enemies started out friends

L17 - His hands around a cold glass make me wanna know that body like it's mine

L18 - Wanna see what's under that attitude

L19 - I want you, bless my soul

L20 - You know I adore you

L21 - It's you and me, that's my whole world

L22 - Voted most likely to run away with you

L23 - I think you should come home

L24 - I'll never let you go cause I know this a fight that someday we're gonna win

L25 - Kiss you twice cause it's gonna be alright

L26 - I'd marry you with paper rings

L27 - That's the kind of heartbreak time could never mend

[monkeyssalad-blog]

428 de Havilland Tiger Moth DH 82A (1942) G-ANEN by Robert Knight Via Flickr: de Havilland Tiger Moth (1931-34) Engine 130 hp (97 kW) de Havilland Gipsy Major piston engine Production 8,868 Registration Number G-ANEN AIRCRAFT ALBUM www.flickr.com/photos/45676495@N05/albums/72157626970256152 The de Havilland DH.82 Tiger Moth is a 1930s British biplane designed by Geoffrey de Havilland and built by the de Havilland Aircraft Company. It was operated by the Royal Air Force (RAF) and other operators as a primary trainer aircraft. The Second World War had RAF Tiger Moths operating in other capacities, including maritime surveillance and defensive anti-invasion preparations; some aircraft were even outfitted to function as armed light bombers. The Tiger Moth remained in service with the RAF until it was replaced by the de Havilland Chipmunk during the early 1950s. The DH82A Tiger Moth, sometimes refereed to a Tiger Moth II is a two seat primary trainer aircraft. Powered by a 130 hp (97 kW) de Havilland Gipsy Major piston engine and fitted with a hood over the rear cockpit for blind flying instruction. Named Tiger Moth II in RAF. Tiger Moth G-ANEN Was taken on charge as DE410 at 10 MU RAF Hullavington, Chippenham, Wiltshire, 25.03.1942. Transferred 23.8.42 To 28 EFTS RAF Pendeford, Wolverhampton, Staffordshire 23.8.42 coded “93”. To 9 MU RAF Cosford, Wolverhampton, Staffordshire 21.7.45. To 23 RFS (Reserve Flying School). RAF Usworth, Sunderland, County Durham 26.1.50 coded “RSA-G”. To 7 RFS (Reserve Flying School) RAF Desford, Leicestershire 26.3.51. To 9 MU RAF Cosford, Wolverhampton, Staffordshire 14.11.51 for storage pending disposal.. Struck off charge charge when sold 15.10.53 to Association of British Aero Clubs. UK civil registered asa G-ANEN (C of R R4158) 2.10.53 to Link Training Services Ltd, London SW3 (aircraft based at Elstree Aerdrome, Elstree, Herfordshire). C of A not known. Registration G-ANEN cancelled 11.10.53 as 'sold to Belgium - OO-ACG'.. Delivered 25.10.53 and re-registered in Belgium as OO-ACG [C of R 995] 18.2.54 to L Vlieghe, Lier/Keerbergen. Re-registered 22.3.55 to D Jordens, Tienen/Aalst. Re-registered 12.6.57 to J Bogaerts, Grimbergen. Re-registered 4.3.58 to Publiciel sprl, Grimbergen. Registration G-ANEN 2.4.92 restored (C of R G-ANEN/R2) to Michael David Souch, Durley, Hants. Rebuilt at Hedge End and reflown in 1995; C of A renewed 21.7.95. Re-registered (C of R G-ANEN/R3) 22.3.96 to Robert James Jackson, Salisbury. Wiltshire [aircraft based at Old Sarum]. Sold 7.2000 and re-registered (C of R G-ANEN/R4) 15.5.2001 to Dr Anthony John Douglas Douglas-Hamilton, Chichester (based Goodwood). Damaged 17.3.2003 in a forced landing at Goodwood, Chichester, West Sussex. According to the AAIB Report into the incident:. Repaired and returned to service. Damaged when tipped on nose on take-off Goodwood 13.7.2005..Repaired and returned to service. Sold 8.2007 (but not re-registered) to David Wildridge & Simon Holland, Bicester. Oxfordshire. Re-registered (C of R G-ANEN/R5) 18.5.2009 to David Brian Wildridge, trustee of the G-ANEN Group, Bicester, Oxfordshire. C of A replaced by Permit to Fly 28.11.2014. Re-registered (C of R G-ANEN/R6) 14.5.2019 to Timothy William Kenyon Emrys-Roberts, trustee of the G-ANEN Group, Bicester, Oxfordshire. Currently registered and airworthy. Diolch am 89,103,703 o olygfeydd anhygoel, mae pob un yn cael ei werthfawrogi'n fawr. Thanks for 89,103,703 amazing views, every one is greatly appreciated. Shot 10.10.2021 at Bicester Scramble, Bicester, Oxon. Ref. 122-428

[hydraulichoses]

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[dailyhorseracingselections]

The Long Shot Report Tuesday, July 11th 2023 – Presque Isle Downs

Playable Long Shots

Presque Isle Downs

7-11-2023

For a list of live long shots on the weekend, buy my weekend long shot report.

R1: #1 Bourbon Over Ice, #4 Ante Up Alex (Place $21.40)

R2: #3 Cappy, #6 Cereal ID

R3: #6 Sgt Reckless USMC (Show $5.20)

R4: #6 Marsac, #2 Inclusive

R5: #4 Pat’ssewingmachine (Win $12.20)

R6: #6 R Girl Faith, #7 Lightning Round

R7: #6 Happy Bee

R8: #8 Twelvetwo (Show $36.60), #2 Piton

Buy handicapping books written by professional players, and then read them again and again. Develop your own handicapping-book library. The more books you read, the better you will get at picking winners. This is a game of information! Learn how to spot information that the general public glosses over. And then, after you’ve educated yourself on the most important aspects of horse race handicapping, track your wagers and track your ROI!

[ghost-cinnamon]

Sooooo, I kinda had to do a lot of other stuff so I wasn’t able to continue crocheting different Sans AUs. Buuut I’m back now and crocheted classic. I really like the fluff on his jacket :3 it’s adorable

I attached the pattern for him below if you also wanna crochet him. Have fun!

Classic Sans

Abbreviations

R - Row

Rd - Round

ch - chain

ss - slip stitch

sc - single crochet

hdc - half double crochet

dc - double crochet

trc - treble/triple crochet inc - increase

dec - decrease

flo - front loops only

blo - back loops only

[...] x2/3/6 - repeat what is inside the brackets 2/3/6 times

(...) - the number inside of the brackets is the number of stitches that round is supposed to have

The legs, main body and head will be crocheted in one piece just cuz I hate sewing the head onto the body, it always ends up crooked :(

Legs x2

Rd1: 6sc into Magic Ring

Rd2: 6 inc

Rd3: [1sc, inc]x6

Rd4: [2sc, inc]x6

Rd5-19: sc around

don’t tie off the second leg, connect it to the other leg with a ss

Rd20-31: sc around (36sc)

Rd32: 2sc, Dec, 5sc, Dec, sc,Dec, 6sc, Dec,6sc, Dec, sc, Dec,3sc

Rd33: 8sc, 3dec,7sc, 3dec, 3sc

Rd34: 7sc, 2dec, 2sc, 2dec, 2sc, 2dec, 1sc

Rd35: [1sc, Dec]x6

Rd36: sc around (12sc)

Rd37: [1sc, inc] x6

Rd38: [2sc, inc] x6

Rd39: [3sc, inc] x6

Rd40: [4sc, inc] x6

Rd41: [5sc, inc] x6

Rd42: [6sc, inc] x6

Rd43: [7sc, inc] x6

Rd44-48: sc around

Rd49: [7sc, Dec] x6

Rd50: sc around

Rd51: [6sc, Dec] x6

Rd52: sc around

Rd53: [5sc, Dec] x6

Rd54: [4sc, Dec] x6

Rd55: [3sc, Dec] x6

Rd56: [2sc, Dec] x6

Rd57: [1sc, Dec] x6

Rd58: 6 Dec

Arms x2

Rd1: 6sc into Magic ring

Rd2: 6 inc

Rd3-18: sc around

Sew body together and add the face

Pants

Rd1: ch31

Rd2: ss into first chain and sc around (30sc)

Rd3-4: sc around

Rd5: [8sc, Dec] x3

Rd6: sc around

Rd7: [7sc, Dec] x3

Rd8-9: sc around

Don’t tie off the second pant leg, connect with ss to other pant leg

Rd10-11: sc around (48sc)

Rd12: [14sc, Dec] x3

Rd13: [13sc, Dec] x3

Rd14: [12sc, Dec] x3

Rd15: [11sc, Dec] x3

Rd16: sc around

Shirt

Panels

R1: ch19

R2-13: 18sc, ch1, turn

R14: 16sc, ch1, turn

R15: 14sc, ch2, turn

R16: 2trc, 2dc, 1hdc, 4sc, 1hdc, 2dc, 2trc

Sleeves

Rd1: ch13

Rd2: ss into first chain, 12sc

Rd3-15: sc around

Sew everything together

Jacket

Sleeves x 2

Rd1: ch25

Rd2: ss into first chain, 24sc

Rd3-10: sc around

Rd11: [6sc, Dec] x3

Rd12: [5sc, Dec] x3

Rd13: sc around

Rd14: 12sc, ch1, turn, 9sc, ch1, turn, 7sc, ch1, turn, 5sc, ch1, turn, 5sc

Rd14: 8sc to end of round

Rd15: sc around (18)

Back panel

R1: ch23

R2-16: 22sc, ch1, turn

R17: 18sc, ch1, turn

R18: 14sc, ch1, turn

R19: 14sc, ch1, turn

R20: 2trc, 2dc, 1hdc, 4sc, 1hdc, 2dc, 2trc

Front panels x 2

R1: ch9

R2-16: 8sc, ch1, turn

R17: 5sc, ch1, turn

R18: 5sc, ch1, turn

R19: 1hdc, 2dc, 2trc

Hood

R1: ch31

R2: 30sc, ch1, turn

R3: 3ss, 24sc, ch1, turn

R4: 24sc, ch1, turn

R5: 23sc, ch1, turn

R6: 22sc, ch1, turn

R7: 21sc, ch1, turn

R8: 20sc, ch1, turn,

R9: 19sc, ch1, turn

R10: 18sc, ch1, turn

R11: 16sc, ch1, turn

R12: 14sc, ch1, turn

R13: 12sc, ch1, turn

R14: 10sc, ch1, turn

R15: 10sc, now sc down the side of the piece to the last ch of the row on the bottom 10sc, ch1 turn

R16: 1dec, 10sc, 3dec, 2sc, sc down the side of the piece to the first chain 8sc, 1dec

Sew everything together and optionally add white yarn strings to the edge of the hood and brush them out until fluffy

Slippers x 2

Rd1: 6sc into magic ring

Rd2: 6 inc

Rd3: [1sc, inc] x6

Rd4: [2sc, inc] x6

Rd5: blo 10sc, ch1, turn, 10sc, ch1, turn, 10sc

Sew onto body

Now just dress your classic and finished

I hope you liked the pattern, as always if you have any questions or anything is unclear you can just ask me. I’ll answer as fast as possible.

Sadly for this pattern I won’t be able to give any close-up pictures, should you ask for them to see a detail better because this is a gift for a friend and I will no longer have any direct contact to the plushie. Still, I hope this pattern is coherent enough to not need any more pictures

You can find my pattern for Error here

You can find my pattern for Ink here

Also if I continue making these patterns it might actually make sense to make a masterpost at some point to make it easier to navigate. Right now I feel like the patterns are still easy to navigate cuz I barely have anything on my blog but let me know how you feel about navigating the posts so far <3

[thephoblographer]

What The Canon EOS R5 Mk II Needs to Be Great

Rolling shutter is a big problem that should be addressed for photographers.

There are reports of a new Canon EOS R5 Mk II on the horizon. For many years, Canon did not push technology out all that fast. But it seems like now things are changing. In the past few years, we’ve seen tons of innovations from them in just autofocus alone. So it shouldn’t be so farfetched to think that the Canon EOS R5 Mk II isn’t coming. And if it does come, here’s what we’d want. (more…)

[xensilverquill]

i found a Creature in my kitchen today

this is my child now

(free pattern below the readmore!)

TBH/Autism Creature Pattern  

Materials

White yarn (Any weight)  

Black yarn (1 weight size smaller than white yarn)  

Fiber fill  

Hook sizes appropriate to your yarn and tension style (I reccomend at least one hook size smaller than what is reccomended on yarn label.)  

Optional:  

Poly pellets  

Panty hose  

Pattern Terms

SC: single crochet  

R#: row #

MR: magic ring

INC: increase (i.e. two SC in same stitch)  

3INC: three SC in same stitch  

DEC: invisible decrease  

CH: chain  

SLST: slip stitch  

[#] # of stitches at end of row  

Ultimate Finish: See tutorial  

Invisible Finish: See tutorial  

Eyes [x2] (Black Yarn, Smaller Hook)

R1: 6 SC in MR [6]

R2: (INC) x 6 [12]

R3: (1 SC, INC) x 6 [18]

SLST, Invisible Finish, and leave long tail for sewing.

Head [x1] (White Yarn, Larger Hook)

R1: 6 SC in MR [6]

R2: (INC) x 6 [12]

R3: (1 SC, INC) x 6 [18]

R4: (1 SC, INC, 1 SC) x 6 [24]

R5: (3 SC, INC) x 6 [30]

R6: (2 SC, INC, 2 SC) x 6 [36]

R7: (5 SC, INC) x 6 [42]

R8: (3 SC, INC, 3 SC) x 6 [48]

R9: (7 SC, INC) x 6 [54]

R10-R15: SC around (6 rows) [54 x 6]

R16: (7 SC, DEC) x 6 [48]

R17: (3 SC, DEC, 3 SC) x 6 [42]

R18: (5 SC, DEC) x 6 [36]

R19: (2 SC, DEC, 2 SC) x 6 [30]

(i): Begin stuffing with fiber fill.

R20: (3 SC, DEC) x 6 [24]

R21: (1 SC, DEC, 1 SC) x 6 [18]

R22: (1 SC, DEC) x 6 [12]

R23: (DEC) X6 [6]

(ii): Finish stuffing.

(iii): Sl St, bind off with Ultimate Finish.

Legs [x4] (White Yarn, Larger Hook)

R1: Ch 4, 1 SC in 2nd Ch from Hook, 1 SC, 3 SC in last Ch, 1 SC along other side of starting chain, 2 SC in turning chain [8]

R2: 3 SC, 3INC, 3 SC, 3INC [12]

R3-R8: SC around (6 rows) [12 x 6]

(i): SLST, leave long tail for sewing, and stuff with fiber fill, taking care not to overstuff and stretch the legs.

Body [x1] (White Yarn, Larger Hook)

R1: Ch 7, INC in 2nd chain from hook, 4 SC, INC, then working along the opposite side of chain, INC, 4 SC along opposite side of chain, INC [16]

R2: 1 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 2 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 1 SC [20]

R3: 2 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 2 SC [24]

R4: 3 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 6 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 3 SC [28]

R5-R17: SC around (13 rows) [28 x 13]

R18: DEC, 6 SC, DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 6 SC, DEC, 4 SC [24]

(i): If you want to add some weight and balance to your creature, stuff according to the instructions below. Otherwise, stuff as normal with fiber fill.

(ii): First make a pellet packet. Cut a length of pantyhose, making a tight knot in one end. Fill the pocket with enough poly pellets to give weight to the body, but avoid overstuffing at this will stretch out and make gaps in the body. Close the pocket with a knot on the open end of the pantyhose and cut away any excess material.

(iii): Stuff some fiberfill into the front end of the body before inserting the pellet fill packet, then lightly stuff fiberfill between the packet and top inside of the body.

R19: DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 4 SC [20]

R20: DEC, 2 SC, DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 2 SC, DEC, 4 SC [16]

R21: 2 DEC, 4 SC, 2 DEC, 4 SC [12]

(iv): Leave long tail for sewing body closed.

(vi): Finish stuffing, squish sides of end row together and sew closed.

Assembly  

(1) Pin the legs to the body with the long side pointed forward and parallel with the body. The left and right leg of each pair should be 2 to 3 stitches apart. Pin the front legs between R4 and R9 of the body. Pin back legs between R12 and R17. Sew to attach, hide thread ends in body.  

(2) Pin the head to the body, connecting R3 and R10 of the body to the R22 and R19 of the head, respectively. Sew to attach, hide thread ends in body.  

(3) Pin eyes 3 to 4 stitches apart between R10 and R16 of the head. Sew to attach, hide thread ends in head.  

(4) Use a long length of white yarn to embroider highlights in the upper left portion of each eyes. Hide thread ends in head.  

(5) Use a length of black yarn to embroider mouth 2 to 3 rows below the eyes. Hide thread ends in head.  

(6) Fluff up your scrungly little creature (they will be a little squished from all the sewing) and enjoy!