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[hydraulichoses]

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[otrstore]

51 MM Inlet Cone style CNC Tip Stainless Steel Universal Slip-On Without DB Killer for Loud Exhaust note Mid Size 51 MM Inlet Cone style CNC Tip Stainless Steel Universal Slip-On Without DB Killer for Loud Exhaust note Mid Size. Made from High Quality Rust-Free Stainless with detailed attention to quality and finishing. Comes with Laser Brand Logo/ Sticker. Cost effective Replica Replacement. Can be Installed on any motor vehicle with exhaust pipe size between 38MM to 51MM (1.5 to 2 inches). Comes with all required fitment. Bike Specific Slip-On/ Mid-pipe/ Header to be purchased seperately. Please don not expect Hayabusa like sound on single cylinder Indian bikes by changing to this muffler. Can be fitted on Yamaha R15, TVS Apache RTR, Honda CBR, Unicorn, Hornett, Bajaj Pulsar, Dominar, Unicorn, Suzuki Gixxer, Hero Karizma, Hunk, Xtreme, Kawasaki Ninja, ZX6r, ZX10R, ZX14R, Honda CBR600, CBR1000, Yamaha R3, R1, R6, MT, FZ, Suzuki GSX600, GSX750, GSX1000, BENElli TNT300 TNT 600i, 302, TRK, GT600, KTM Duke, RC, BMW G310, Triumph daytona, Street Triple, Ducati Monster, Diavel Panigale, etc

[thephoblographer]

What The Canon EOS R5 Mk II Needs to Be Great

Rolling shutter is a big problem that should be addressed for photographers.

There are reports of a new Canon EOS R5 Mk II on the horizon. For many years, Canon did not push technology out all that fast. But it seems like now things are changing. In the past few years, we’ve seen tons of innovations from them in just autofocus alone. So it shouldn’t be so farfetched to think that the Canon EOS R5 Mk II isn’t coming. And if it does come, here’s what we’d want. (more…)

[ghost-cinnamon]

Since I crocheted Error last time I wanted to crochet Ink so they could hold hands :3

If you also want to crochet him I attached my pattern below

Have fun crocheting :)

Abbreviations

R - Row

Rd - Round

ch - chain

ss - slip stitch

sc - single crochet

hdc - half double crochet

dc - double crochet

trc - treble/triple crochet

inc - increase

dec - decrease

flo - front loops only

bl - back loops

[…] x2/3/6 - repeat what is inside the brackets 2/3/6 times

(…) - the number inside of the brackets is the number of stitches that round is supposed to have

Legs x2

Rd1: 6sc into Magic Ring

Rd2: 6inc

Rd3: [1sc, inc]x6

Rd4-18: sc around

don’t tie off the second leg, connect it to the other leg with a ss

Rd19-21: sc around (36sc)

Change color to black

Rd22-30: sc around

Rd31: 2sc, Dec, 5sc, Dec, sc,Dec, 6sc, Dec,6sc, Dec, sc, Dec,3sc

Rd32: 8sc, 3dec,7sc, 3dec, 3sc

Rd33: 7sc, 2dec, 2sc, 2dec, 2sc, 2dec, 1sc

Rd34: [1sc, Dec]x6

Rd35: sc around (12sc)

3sc to middle of the back and change color to white

Rd36: [1sc, inc] x6

Rd37: [2sc, inc] x6

Rd38: [3sc, inc] x6

Rd39: [4sc, inc] x6 *fertig

Rd40: [5sc, inc] x6

Rd41: [6sc, inc] x6

Rd42: [7sc, inc] x6

Rd43-47: sc around

Rd48: [7sc, Dec] x6

Rd49: sc around

Rd50: [6sc, Dec] x6

Rd51: sc around

Rd52: [5sc, Dec] x6

Rd53: [4sc, Dec] x6

Rd54: [3sc, Dec] x6

Rd55: [2sc, Dec] x6

Rd56: [1sc, Dec] x6

Rd57: 6 Dec

Arms x2

Rd1: 6sc into Magic ring

Rd2: 6inc

Change color to brown

Rd3-4: sc around

Change color to black

Rd5-18: sc around

Toes x2

R1: ch7

R2: 6sc

Sew body together and add the face

Pants

Rd1: ch31

Rd2: ss into first chain, 30sc

Rd3-4: sc around

Rd5: [8sc, Dec] x3

Rd6-7: sc around

Rd8: [7sc, Dec] x3

Rd9-11: sc around

Rd12: [6sc, Dec] x3

Rd13: sc around

Don’t tie off the second pant leg, connect with ss to other pant leg

Rd14-15: sc around

Rd16: [12sc, Dec] x3

Rd17: [11sc, Dec] x3

Rd18: 16sc, flo 9sc, ch1, turn

R19: 9sc, ch1, turn

R20: 9sc, ch1, turn

R21: 9sc, ch1, turn

R22: 9sc

Suspenders x2

R1: ch21

R2: 20sc

Sew the suspenders to the pants

Shirt

Panels x2

R1: ch17

R2-12: 16sc, ch1, turn

R13: 13sc, ch1, turn

R14: 10sc, ch1, turn

Sleeves x2

Rd1: ch13

Rd2: ss into first chain, 12sc

Rd3-7: sc around

Rd8: 6sc, ch1, turn, 6sc, ch1, turn, 12sc to end of round

Rd9: sc around

Sew everything together

(The white wool I had was thinner than the rest of the wool that I used. So now the stitches are bigger than I would’ve liked but if you use the right wool it should be fine)

Crop top

Panels x2

R1: ch19

R2: 18sc, ch1, turn

Change color to brown

R3-4: 18sc, ch1, turn

R5: 15sc, ch1, turn

R6: 12sc, ch1, turn

R7: trc, dc, 2hdc, 4sc, 2hdc, dc, trc

Scarf

R1: ch6

R2-90: 5sc, ch1, turn

Brush

Rd1: 3sc into magic ring

Rd2: 3inc

Rd3: [1sc, inc] x3

Rd4: [2sc, inc] x3

Rd5: [3sc, inc] x3

Rd6: [4sc, inc] x3

Change color to brown

Rd7: [5sc, inc] x3

Rd8: [6sc, inc] x3

Rd9-11: sc around

Rd12: [2sc, dec] x6

Change color to yellow

Rd13: flo sc around

Rd14: sc around in the previously unworked bl of the last brown row

Change color to beige

Rd15-30: sc around

Change color to yellow

Rd31: flo sc around

Rd32: sc around in the previously unworked bl of the last beige row

Change color to beige

Rd33-36: sc around

Rd37: 6dec

Belt

R1: ch4

R2-46: 3sc, ch1, turn

Sew the ends together to make a loop

R1: ch4

R2-11: 3sc, ch1, turn

Sew onto loop (this will be where the brush is being held)

Optionally you can cut out the vials out of felt and sew them onto the front of the belt

Now just dress your Ink and finished

Now he‘ll be able to hold hands with your Error :>

You’ll find the crochet pattern for Error here

This is my second ever pattern so if you have any questions feel free to ask me and I’ll try to clear things up. Have fun :)

[aryamistwood]

Erissa's Doll

It's finally done! Here is my take of Erissa's dolls..or puppets? Do we know what SSO is calling them yet? I admit, I messed up the proportions a bit and it isn't exact to the game model, but I'm still so proud and think it came out really cute! This was the first time I made my own pattern, and while there are things I think I would do differently next time, I'm still pretty happy with her!

Free Amigurumi Pattern below!

DISCLAIMER! This is my first pattern, so it may read rough. These are the exact steps I used to make the doll in the picture, but feel free to modify to look closer to the original.

MATERIALS

Weight 4 in 3 colors. I don't have exact amounts because this yarn came from my stash of rug yarn. Definitely less than a full ball, probably about 1/3 to 1/2. I believe it was Loops and Threads brand. The bows used a very small amount, less than a fist's size each.

4mm crochet hook

tapestry needle

safety eyes or buttons

stuffing material

LEGEND

r# - round/row

mc - magic circle

inc - increase

sc - single crochet

fo - fasten off (pull the tail through to knot)

ch - chain

dec - decrease (I used the invisible decrease, where you pull up the inside loops only of the 2 stitches you're decreasing)

slst - slip stitch

LEGS (make 2)

r1 - mc 4sc [4] r2 - inc x4 [8] r3 - (inc, 3sc) x2 [10] r4 - (inc, 4sc) x2 [12] r5 - (inc, 5sc) x2 [14] r6 - (inc, 6sc) x2 [16] r7 - 16sc [16] r8 - (inc, 7sc) x2 [18] r9 - 18sc [18] r10 - (inc, 8sc) x2 [20] r11 - 20sc [20] r12 - (inc, 9sc) x2 [22] r13 - 22sc [22] r14 - (inc, 10sc) x2 [24]

Don’t FO the first leg, leave a hands length tail.

After you finish the second leg, chain 2 and join with the unfinished loop of the first leg.

sc once into the next stitch on the first leg, and then sc 2x into the side of the chain 2.

Rejoin leg 2 with a sc and continue to sc around leg 2.

Continue to sc down the chain and around the next leg. You should have about 52-54 stitches in this round, give or take. Consider the point where you rejoined the second leg after coming back on the side of the chain 2 the start of your round.

NOTE: About here on, your stitch counts might not match mine, and that's okay. The rest isn’t so precise, so if it looks good to you, you’re good!

BODY (continuing from last step)

r1 - r3 - sc around (54)

Stuff the legs.

This is where we start decreasing. On each “decrease round”, you’re going to DEC at the front and back of (for lack of a better term) the crotch.

r4 - (25sc, dec) x2 [52] r5 - 52sc [52] r6 - (24sc, dec) x2 [50] r7 - 50sc [50] r8 - (23sc, dec) x2 [48] r9 - 48sc [48] r10 - (22sc, dec) x2 [46] r11 - 46sc [46] r12 - (21sc, dec) x2 [44] r13 - 44sc [44] r14 - (9sc. dec) x4 [40] r15 - (8sc, dec) x4 [36]

Another reminder to stuff here.

r16 - (7sc, dec) x4 [32] r17 - (6sc, dec) x4 [28] r18 - (5sc, dec) x4 [24] r19 - (4sc, dec) x4 [20]

FO and leave a long tail for sewing (2 hands length)

HEAD

r1 - mc 6sc [6] r2 - 6inc [12] r3 - (1sc, inc) x6 [18] r4 - (2sc, inc) x6 [24] r5 - (3sc, inc) x6 [30] r6 - (4sc, inc) x6 [36] r7 - (5sc, inc) x6 [42] r8 - (6sc, inc) x6 [48] r9 - (7sc, inc) x6 [54] r10 - (8sc, inc) x6 [60] r11-18 60sc [60] r19 - (8sc, dec) x6 [54]

If you are adding safety eyes, add them between rows 17 and 18, about 12 stitches apart

r20 - (7sc, dec) x6 [48] r21 - (6sc, dec) x6 [42] r22 - (5sc, dec) x6 [36] r23 - (4sc, dec) x6 [30] r24 - (3sc, dec) x6 [24] r25 - (2sc, dec) x6 [18] r26 - (1sc, dec) x6 [12]

FO and leave a few inches to weave in

Stuff firmly and sew to body, stuffing the joint as you close it. Be careful to line your stitches up so the eyes face forward, and don't list to the left like mine did.

ARMS (make 2)

r1 - mc 4sc [4] r2 - inc x4 [8] r3 - (inc, 3sc) x2 [10] r4 - (inc, 4sc) x2 [12] r5 - (inc, 5sc) x2 [14] r6 - (inc, 6sc) x2 [16] r7 - 16sc [16] r8 - (inc, 7sc) x2 [18] r9-13 - 18sc [18]

So at this point, I know it would be more accurate to attach the arms fluffed and sewn a bit open to the body…but I decided to lightly stuff and slst the opening closed, leaving a tail for sewing.

BOWS (make 2 in different colors)

r1 - ch36, slst into first chain to close the loop, making sure the chain doesn’t twist [36] r2 - (into the sides of the chain) ch1, sc35 [36] r3-10 sc36 [36]

slst and weave the ends.

With the same color, we’re going to make the bow’s knot.

r1 - ch 11 [11] r2 - sc in the second stitch from the hook and down the remaining 9 stitches, ch1 and turn [10] r3-4 - 10sc, ch1, turn [10] r5 - fold your work so the short ends touch and slst to join down the short side [4]

Leave a long tail for sewing.

To assemble, scrunch/gather the first part of the bow you made and slide it through the “knot” with the openings at the top and bottom. Rolling it up and twisting helps. Then fluff out the sides so it looks how you like.

Then assemble! Your head should already be attached. Go ahead and add the arms about 6 rows down from the head connection, or place them visually. Attach the bows to the top using the tail from the knot. Fluff the bows and you're done!

[eldritchgriffin]

Shadow the Hedgehog Scarf Pattern

Some people said they wanted the Sonic Speed Simulator character scarves in real life, so I made the Shadow Scarf!

I wrote up the pattern below the cut, so you can create your own!

This is a crochet pattern based on the Shadow Scarf model designed by Gamefam. You may use anything you make from this however you like, but please credit me if you redistribute the pattern. You may not sell the pattern. I will not stop you from selling items created from the pattern, but you should check Gamefam’s and Sega’s policies for fanworks first to avoid copyright infringement. You may modify this pattern, and share modified versions of it. You may not sell modified versions of this pattern.

Tools and materials:

Crochet hooks in sizes N, K, and G

Yarn needle

Super bulky (6) weight yarn in your main color (black if you’re making Shadow). It took almost an entire 160 yard skein. I used Lion Hometown in South Dakota Black.

Super bulky (6) weight yarn in your secondary color (red if you’re making Shadow). I used Lion Hometown in Tampa Spice.

Super bulky (6) weight yarn in white. I used Lion Hometown in New York White.

Medium/worsted (4) weight yarn in brown/tan. I used Lion Basic Stitch Anti Pilling in Cedarwood.

Stuffing

Abbreviations:

R - Round

Sk - skip

Ch - Chain

Slp - slip stitch

Hdc - Half-double crochet

Fhdc - Foundation half-double crochet

Blo - Back loop only

Sc - Single crochet

Inc - increase (single crochet)

Dec - decrease (single crochet)

Inv-dec - invisible decrease (single crochet)

Sc3tog - single crochet 3 together

[something] * 6 - repeat “something” 6 times

Alternate techniques:

The listed stitches are the ones I used. However, as some of them are a bit tricky, there are substitutions that can be made. Any invisible decrease may be replaced by a standard decrease. A magic ring may be replaced by chaining 4, slip stitching to the farthest chain from the hook, then chaining one (for height) and working stitches into the center of the chain-ring like you would a magic ring; note that this will leave a hole in the center of your circle, which you may want to cover with the tail while weaving in the ends. Also, the foundation half-double crochets may be replaced by adding a starting chain as follows:

Row 0: Ch 5 in red; change to black, ch 5; change to red, ch 5; change to black, ch 77 (75 + 2 for height), turn.

Then simply use regular half-double crochets instead of the foundation stitches, beginning in the third chain from the hook.

I have tried to make this easy to follow, but if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out to me, and I will do my best to answer them.

Pattern, scarf:

Starting with black yarn (N hook) Row 1: Fhdc 75 in black. Change to red, fhdc 5. Change to black, fhdc 5. Change to red, fhdc 5. Ch 2 and turn. Row 2: Hdc 5. Change to black, hdc 5. Change to red, hdc 5. Change to black, hdc 75. Ch 2 and turn. Row 3: Hdc-blo 75. Change to red, hdc-blo 5. Change to black, hdc-blo 5. Change to red, hdc-blo 5. Ch 2 and turn. Rows 4-5: Repeat Rows 2-3. Row 6: Hdc 75 in black. Change to red, hdc 5. Change to black, hdc 5. Change to red, hdc 5. Finish off and weave in ends

Head:

Starting with white yarn (K hook) R1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, then sc 6 in the ring. R2: Inc 6 R3: [sc 1, inc 1] * 6 R4: [sc 2, inc 1] * 6 R5: [sc 3, inc 1] * 6. Change to black R6: [sc 4, inc 1] * 6 R7: [sc 5, inc 1] * 6 R8-9: Sc 42 R10: [sc 5, dec 1] * 6 R11: [sc 4, dec 1] * 6 R12: [sc 3, dec 1] * 6 R13: [sc 2, dec 1] * 6. Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Forehead/top of eyes:

With black yarn (K hook) R1: Sc 6 in MR R2: Inc 6 R3: [sc 1, inc] * 6 R4: [sc 2, inc] * 6 R5: [sc 3, inc] * 6. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Large spikes (create 2):

With black yarn (K hook) Ch 8 Row 1: Ch 1 and turn, dec 1, sc 4, dec 1 Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, sc 1, dec 2, sc 1 Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, inc 1, dec 1, inc 1 Row 4: Ch 1 and turn, sc 1, sc3tog, sc 1 Without chaining, slp to the farthest stitch from the hook. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Small spike:

With black yarn (K hook) Ch 6 Row 1: Ch 1 and turn, sc 1, dec 2, sc 1 Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, inc 1, dec 1, inc 1 Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, sc 1, sc3tog, sc 1 Without chaining, slp to the farthest stitch from the hook. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Red, lower spike:

With red yarn (K hook) Row 1: Ch 2, 2 sc in second ch from hook Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, sc 1, inc 1 Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, sc 3 Row 4: Ch 1 and turn, sc 3. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew to one of the large spikes, attaching the first row of the red portion to the final row of the black portion.

Red, middle spike:

With red yarn (K hook) Row 1: Ch 2, 2 sc in second ch from hook Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, sc 1, inc 1 Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, sc 2, inc 1 Row 4: Ch 1 and turn, sc 4 Row 5: Ch 1 and turn, dec 2. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew to one of the large spikes, attaching the first row of the red portion to the final row of the black portion.

Red, forehead/upper spike:

With red yarn (K hook) Ch 10 Row 1: Ch 1 and turn, sc 10 Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, sc 10 Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, sc 6 Row 4: Ch 1 and turn, dec 1, sc 2, dec 1 Row 5: Ch 1 and turn, dec 2 Row 6: Ch 1 and turn, dec. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Face:

With tan yarn (G hook) Ch 26 Row 1: Ch 1 and turn, [sc 2, dec 1] * 6, sc 2. Ch 1 and turn Row 2: sc 20, finish off Row 3: Slp to join in 6th stitch, sc 8, slp 1 Row 4: Ch 1 and turn, sk 1, slp 1, sc 7, slp 1 Row 5: Ch 1 and turn, sk 1, slp 1, sc 1, dec 1, sc 1, dec 1, sc 1, slp 1 Row 6: Ch 1 and turn, sk 1, slp 1, sc 3, slp 1 Row 7: Ch 1 and turn, sk 1, slp 1, dec 1, slp 1. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Ears (Create 2 in black and 2 in tan):

With black yarn (K hook) With tan yarn (G hook) Ch 3 Row 1: Ch 1 and turn, sc 3 Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, sc3tog. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Assembly:

Start by sewing the forehead onto the main head. Next, sew the spikes to the right side of the head, starting from the bottom and attaching each right above the previous one; stuff the lower two spikes before finishing attachment. Add the upper red stripe with the large triangular portion in the center of the forehead and the side portion attached to the upper spike, stuffing the upper spike before closing it. Sew on the face (you may want to create the mouth before attaching the face if you dislike sewing through multiple layers).

Using red yarn, embroider on the red “eyeliner” using a backstitch. Use one line of backstitching along the top of the eyes and two lines of backstitching along the sides of the eyes, trying to cover the join between the white and black. Use black yarn and a satin stitch to create the nose and the pupils; you can also cut ovals out of felt and sew them on if you prefer. Backstitch with the black yarn to make the mouth.

Sew the tan parts of the ears to the black parts, then attach the ears to the head. Finally, attach the head to the black end of the scarf, stuffing the head before closing the gap completely.

[that-lynx-named-breeze]

Here's the KinitoPet Pattern!

(Also, shoutout to @rateater2000 for their funny antics)

(Also also, this is my first pattern that i've posted publicaly, so sorry if it's not the best ^^;)

(Also also also, once you're done, you can send a photo of them in the reblogs. I'd love to see it :))) /gen /nf)

What you’ll need: - 4-ply yarn in pink, darkish pink, black, and white. - Stuffing - 3.5 mm hook - Tapestry needle

Crochet Terms: SC – Single Crochet INC – Increase DEC – Decrease 3SC1 – 3 Single Crochet in one stitch SC3TOG – Single Crochet 3 stitches together [x] x – repeat a certain amount of times MR – Magic Ring R – Round/Row ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Head (Pink) R1- MR of 6SC (6) R2- [INC] x6 (12) R3- [SC, INC] x6 (18) R4- [2SC, INC] x6 (24) R5-8 SC (24) R9 [2SC, DEC] x6 (18) (stuff) R10 [SC, DEC] x6 (12) R11 [DEC] x6 (6)

External Gills (Darkish Pink)(Make 6) R1- MR of 4SC (4) R2-7 SC (4)

Legs (Black)(Make 2) R1- MR of 6SC (6) R2- 4 SC (6)(stuff and keep stuffing) R5- 3SC1, SC, SC3TOG, SC (6) R6- SC, 3SC1, SC, SC3TOG (6) R7-9- SC (6)

Eyes (White)(Make 2) R1- MR of 6SC (6) (For the pupils, you can just emborder black yarn into the white parts)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

AAAAAAANNNDD You're done! Now you have a Best Friend FOREVER!!! :D

[ms-paints-sometimes]

a while ago i knitted nepeta's hat from homestuck and i just remembered that there's a pattern on my deviantart but i'm never active on there so i thought i'd share it here!!

disclaimer: i am aware this is not canon-accurate. it's my own design inspired by the original disclaimer 2: idk much about yarn weights or size charts. this is by no means a professional pattern. i'm just writing down what i did incase someone wants to do it too

pattern under keep reading!!

tools & materials: circular knitting needles (i used 3,5mm) a crochet hook (for the edging, mine is 4,5mm) a sewing needle blue, orange, red and yellow yarn (i'm unsure of how much exactly is needed, but it's less than a ball each) 8 stitch markers (it doesn't have to be anything fancy, i literally used safety pins)

abbreviations used: r[n] - row number k - knit p - purl mk1r - make one right (tutorial) mk1l - make one left (tutorial) k2tog - knit two stitches together (tutorial) ssk - slip, slip, knit (tutorial)

ear flaps (make 2): cast on 7 stitches r1: p7 r2: p1, mk1r, k untill 2 stitches before the end of the row, mk1l, p1 r3: k1, p until 1 stitch before the end, k1 repeat rows 2 and 3 for 12 rows (you should have 21 stitches by then) r4: k1, p until 1 stitch before the end, k1 r5: p1, k until 1 stitch before the end, p1 repeat rows 4 and 5 for 10 rows do not cast off

hat: (tip: when knitting on circular needles, place a stitch marker at the beggining of the row) put the 1st ear flap on circular needles, cast on 18 stitches, put the 2nd flap on, cast on 28 stitches knit for 35 rows r36: *k11, place stitch marker*, repeat between ** until the end of the row r37: *k untill 2 before stitch marker, k2tog, put stitch marker on right needle*, repeat between ** until the end of the row r38: k whole row repeat rows 37 and 38 for 20 rows (you should have 8 stitches left) cast off, leave a tail and sew up the top 

horns (make 4): cast on 15 stitches with red yarn r1-r5: k r6: k2tog, k13, ssk switch to orange yarn r7-r9: k r10: k2tog, k11, ssk r11: k r12: k2tog, k9, ssk switch to yellow yarn r13: k r14: k2tog, k5, ssk r15: k r16: ktog, k3, ssk r17: k r18: k2tog, k1, ssk cast off

sew together 2 horn peices and stuff them with scrap yarn/stuffing, then sew onto hat (i recommend pinning it first, so you're sure of the placement)

stars (make 4): stars were made following this pattern, exept i purled uneven rows (1, 3, 5, ect) sew 2 stars together, purl side out. stuff them with scrap yarn/stuffing

border: with a crochet hook and orange yarn, crochet a border around the edges of the hat. this is opional but makes the edges not curl up. i don't know much about crochet so i can't rlly explain this part

chain about 30 stitches with a crochet hook and make a border around the stars. do this twice for both ear flaps

if y'all have any questions lmk in the comments and i'll try to answer!! :3

[ldrfanatic]

Writing Prompts (from my top favorite taylor swift albums)

how to read/request: the letter at the beginning of each prompt represents the album key below. The number attached is to distinguish the lyrics.

key: t - tortured poets; r - reputation; f - folklore; l - lover;

you can request as many prompts as you’d like!

example request:

t16 & f12 for theodore nott

tortured poets

t1 - "I'm having his baby" no I'm not but you should see your faces

t2 - the coward claimed he was a lion

t3 - "I'll never leave" Nevermind

t4 - You know how to ball I know Aristotle

t5 - Who's gonna know you like me?

t6 - Everything comes out teenage petulance

t7 - If I can't have us, I might just not get up

t8 - two graves, one gun

t9 - I'm just getting color back into my face

t10 - If you wanted me dead, you should've just said

t11 - Is it a wonder I broke, let's hear one more joke

t12 - I was tame, I was gentle

t13 - I'm always drunk on my own tears

t14 - I'm fearsome, and I'm wretched, and I'm wrong

t15 - what we thought was for all time, was momentary

t16 - Did you sleep with a gun underneath our bed?

t17 - Who are we to fight the alchemy?

t18 - Cause the sign on your heart said it's still reserved for me

t19 - This town is fake but you're the real thing

t20 - They said "Babe you gotta fake it till you make it" And I did

t21 - He said he'd love me for all time

-

reputation

r1 - In my dreams, you should see the things we do

r2 - You and me would be a big conversation

r3 - I'm one call away whenever you need me

r4 - I don't wanna be just another ex love

r5 - You've been calling the bluff on all my usual tricks

r6 - They say I did something bad, then why's it feel so good?

r7 - don't blame me, love made me crazy

r8 - my drug is my baby, I'll be using for the rest of my life

r9 - For you I would fall from grace, just to touch your face

r10 - If you walk away, I'd beg you on my knees to stay

r11 - I'm yours to keep and I'm yours to lose

r12 - You know I'm not a bad girl but I do bad things with you

r13 - I'm so chill, but you make me jealous

r14 - You ruined my life by not being mine

r15 - Guess I'll just stumble on home to my cat. Alone. Unless you wanna come along?

r16 - You had turned my bed into a sacred oasis

r17 - I'm a mess but I'm the mess that you wanted

r18 - My hands are shaking from holding back from you

r19 - I don't want you like a best friend

r20 - Only bought this dress so you could take it off

r21 - I want to wear his initial on a chain 'round my neck. Not because he owns me, but cause he really knows me.

r22 - You don't need to save me, but would you run away with me?

-

folklore

f1 - If you wanted me you really should've showed

f2 - If my wishes came true, it would've been you

f3 - If one thing had been different, would everything be different today?

f4 - I knew you leaving like a father running like water

f5 - You drew stars around my scars but now I'm bleeding

f6 - I knew you'd linger like a tattoo kiss

f7 - I knew to love would be to lose my mind

f8 - I knew you you'd come back to me

f9 - I had a marvelous time ruining everything

f10 - I loved you, I swear I loved you, til my dying day

f11 - You can aim for my heart go for blood, but you would still miss me in your bones

f12 - I'm still trying everything to keep you looking at me

f13 - Love you to the moon and to Saturn

f14 - Then you won't have to cry. Or hide in the closet.

f15 - Passed down like folk songs, our love lasts so long

f16 - I didn't know if you'd care if I came back

f17 - I just wanted you to know, that this is me trying

f18 - It's hard to be anywhere these days when all I want is you

f19 - You showed me colors you know I can't see with anyone else

f20 - You know damn well for you I would ruin myself

f21 - Don't want no other shade of blue but you

-

lover

L1 - I forgot that you existed, and I thought that it would kill me but it didn't

L2 - It isn't love, it isn't hate it's just indifference

L3 - What doesn't kill me makes me want you more

L4 - I don't wanna keep secrets just to keep you

L5 - I love you, aint that the worst thing you ever heard?

L6 - He looks up grinning like a devil

L7 - This is our place, we make the rules

L8 - Have I known you 20 seconds or 20 years?

L9 - Can I go where you go?

L10 - I'm so sick of running as fast as I can

L11 - I've got a hundred thrown out speeches I almost said to you

L12 - Help me hold onto you

L13 - Who could ever leave me darling, but who could stay?

L14 - They see right through me. I see right through me. Can you see right through me?

L15 - All the king's men, couldn't put me together again

L16 - All of my enemies started out friends

L17 - His hands around a cold glass make me wanna know that body like it's mine

L18 - Wanna see what's under that attitude

L19 - I want you, bless my soul

L20 - You know I adore you

L21 - It's you and me, that's my whole world

L22 - Voted most likely to run away with you

L23 - I think you should come home

L24 - I'll never let you go cause I know this a fight that someday we're gonna win

L25 - Kiss you twice cause it's gonna be alright

L26 - I'd marry you with paper rings

L27 - That's the kind of heartbreak time could never mend

[dailyhorseracingselections]

The Long Shot Report Tuesday, July 11th 2023 – Presque Isle Downs

Playable Long Shots

Presque Isle Downs

7-11-2023

For a list of live long shots on the weekend, buy my weekend long shot report.

R1: #1 Bourbon Over Ice, #4 Ante Up Alex (Place $21.40)

R2: #3 Cappy, #6 Cereal ID

R3: #6 Sgt Reckless USMC (Show $5.20)

R4: #6 Marsac, #2 Inclusive

R5: #4 Pat’ssewingmachine (Win $12.20)

R6: #6 R Girl Faith, #7 Lightning Round

R7: #6 Happy Bee

R8: #8 Twelvetwo (Show $36.60), #2 Piton

Buy handicapping books written by professional players, and then read them again and again. Develop your own handicapping-book library. The more books you read, the better you will get at picking winners. This is a game of information! Learn how to spot information that the general public glosses over. And then, after you’ve educated yourself on the most important aspects of horse race handicapping, track your wagers and track your ROI!

[selenafreshfriendkidoaf]

Best Selling Digital Camera

The (generally speaking) most famous advanced cameras Beneath, we include the main five most famous models:

1. Ordinance EOS Renegade T7 DSLR Camera Most Famous Group Advanced Camera The Ordinance EOS Radical T7 tops our famous camera list for a couple of reasons.

In the first place, it's a Group camera, so it accompanies a name that everybody knows and regards.

Best Selling Digital Camera

Second, its cost is difficult to beat: the T7 costs under $500 - including a 18-55mm unit focal point.

The T7 is an incredible decision for anybody new to photography searching for their most memorable camera. And keeping in mind that there are cameras with better determinations (large numbers of which are on this rundown), the T7 gives you a 24 MP APS-C sensor, an implicit glimmer, 1080p video, and 3 edges for every second nonstop shooting. You might involve it as a webcam!

See the ongoing cost of the Ordinance T7 (with a unit focal point) here.

Purchasing suggestion: In the event that you have a couple hundred additional dollars to spend, we would suggest the Group EOS Dissident T8i. It's two or three years more youthful than the T7 and accompanies a few updated highlights.

2. Sony a7 IV Mirrorless Camera Most Well known Sony Computerized Camera The Sony a7 IV couldn't be more unique in relation to the T7, yet it's an extremely commendable #2. As a matter of fact, among our perusers, it just sold one less unit than the T7. (Likewise, the dPS pioneer just got this very camera!)

And keeping in mind that it has a precarious sticker price, its determinations uncover why.

The a7 IV is the fourth-age model in the a7 setup, and it accompanies a 33 MP full-outline sensor, 10 edges for every second consistent shooting, 4K/60p video, 5-hub optical picture adjustment, 759 self-adjust focuses, eye following for people, creatures, and birds, thus substantially more.

In the event that you're searching for a genuine crossover camera, you can't turn out badly with the a7 IV.

See the ongoing cost of the Sony a7 IV here.

Purchasing proposal: In the event that you don't have the spending plan for the a7 IV, look at the Sony a7 III. It's the a7 IV's ancestor and is as yet accessible (with an entirely tantamount arrangement of determinations).

3. Ordinance EOS R6 Mirrorless Camera second Most Famous Group Computerized Camera Standard has been making genuine advances with their R-series mirrorless cameras lately, so it's nothing unexpected to see an EOS R model on our rundown of well known cameras.

The Group EOS R6 might not have includes very as staggering as those presented by its kin, the Standard EOS R5, yet its details are entirely decent. An extraordinary decision for lovers need a camera with both photograph and video capacities.

It has a 20 MP full-outline sensor, in-body adjustment, 20 FPS persistent shooting with the electronic screen, 12 FPS ceaseless shooting with mechanical shade, 4K/60p video, and considerably more.

See the ongoing cost of the Group EOS R6 here.

Purchasing proposals: Group is rapidly growing their EOS R arrangement. In the event that you have a bigger financial plan, look at the generally delivered EOS R5 and EOS R3. Likewise, at the hour of composing, Standard has declared a couple of extra cameras, including the EOS R7 and the EOS R10 (the two of which cost not exactly the EOS R6 and are expected out this late spring).

4. Standard EOS 5D Imprint IV DSLR Camera third Most Famous Ordinance Advanced Camera You could do a great deal more terrible than going out on task with a Standard EOS 5D Imprint IV staying nearby your neck.

While the 5D Imprint IV is the most established camera in our main five (it was delivered back in late 2016), 5D cameras have highlighted on our famous advanced camera records since the first 5D sent off in 2005.

5D models have been utilized by a large number of devotees and experts. The Imprint IV has a 30.4 MP full-outline sensor, a 61-point AF framework, 7 FPS constant shooting, and 4K video. As a stills camera, the 5D Imprint IV holds up well indeed. As a matter of fact, we know various stars who actually utilize the 5D Imprint IV as their essential camera.

See the ongoing cost of the Group EOS 5D Imprint IV here.

5. Sony a6600 Mirrorless Camera second Most Famous Sony Advanced Camera Sony's APS-C camera setup has forever been noteworthy, and the a6600 is the ongoing top choice. This camera is little yet packs all in all a punch, it's perfect for both still and video content makers.

It accompanies a 24.2 MP APS-C sensor, human and creature eye identification, 4K video, 425 stage discovery and 425 differentiation recognition AF focuses, and picture adjustment.

See the ongoing cost of the Sony a6600 here.

Purchasing proposal: Don't have the spending plan for the a6600? Look at Sony's remarkable a6400 model and the more up to date Sony ZV-E10. (The last option is arising as a famous camera among vloggers and content makers.)

Most well known Ordinance computerized cameras The Most Well known Computerized Cameras (in 2022) This previous quarter, we've seen extraordinary contest among Group and Sony, with Standard simply surpassing Sony among our perusers.

Ordinance's cameras by and large fit into three classes: the EOS R arrangement (full-outline mirrorless as of now, however it's soon to highlight two APS-C models), the EOS M setup (smaller APS-C mirrorless), and the DSLR arrangement (both full edge and APS-C).

[hydraulichoses]

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[xensilverquill]

i found a Creature in my kitchen today

this is my child now

(free pattern below the readmore!)

TBH/Autism Creature Pattern  

Materials

White yarn (Any weight)  

Black yarn (1 weight size smaller than white yarn)  

Fiber fill  

Hook sizes appropriate to your yarn and tension style (I reccomend at least one hook size smaller than what is reccomended on yarn label.)  

Optional:  

Poly pellets  

Panty hose  

Pattern Terms

SC: single crochet  

R#: row #

MR: magic ring

INC: increase (i.e. two SC in same stitch)  

3INC: three SC in same stitch  

DEC: invisible decrease  

CH: chain  

SLST: slip stitch  

[#] # of stitches at end of row  

Ultimate Finish: See tutorial  

Invisible Finish: See tutorial  

Eyes [x2] (Black Yarn, Smaller Hook)

R1: 6 SC in MR [6]

R2: (INC) x 6 [12]

R3: (1 SC, INC) x 6 [18]

SLST, Invisible Finish, and leave long tail for sewing.

Head [x1] (White Yarn, Larger Hook)

R1: 6 SC in MR [6]

R2: (INC) x 6 [12]

R3: (1 SC, INC) x 6 [18]

R4: (1 SC, INC, 1 SC) x 6 [24]

R5: (3 SC, INC) x 6 [30]

R6: (2 SC, INC, 2 SC) x 6 [36]

R7: (5 SC, INC) x 6 [42]

R8: (3 SC, INC, 3 SC) x 6 [48]

R9: (7 SC, INC) x 6 [54]

R10-R15: SC around (6 rows) [54 x 6]

R16: (7 SC, DEC) x 6 [48]

R17: (3 SC, DEC, 3 SC) x 6 [42]

R18: (5 SC, DEC) x 6 [36]

R19: (2 SC, DEC, 2 SC) x 6 [30]

(i): Begin stuffing with fiber fill.

R20: (3 SC, DEC) x 6 [24]

R21: (1 SC, DEC, 1 SC) x 6 [18]

R22: (1 SC, DEC) x 6 [12]

R23: (DEC) X6 [6]

(ii): Finish stuffing.

(iii): Sl St, bind off with Ultimate Finish.

Legs [x4] (White Yarn, Larger Hook)

R1: Ch 4, 1 SC in 2nd Ch from Hook, 1 SC, 3 SC in last Ch, 1 SC along other side of starting chain, 2 SC in turning chain [8]

R2: 3 SC, 3INC, 3 SC, 3INC [12]

R3-R8: SC around (6 rows) [12 x 6]

(i): SLST, leave long tail for sewing, and stuff with fiber fill, taking care not to overstuff and stretch the legs.

Body [x1] (White Yarn, Larger Hook)

R1: Ch 7, INC in 2nd chain from hook, 4 SC, INC, then working along the opposite side of chain, INC, 4 SC along opposite side of chain, INC [16]

R2: 1 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 2 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 1 SC [20]

R3: 2 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 2 SC [24]

R4: 3 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 6 SC, INC, 4 SC, INC, 3 SC [28]

R5-R17: SC around (13 rows) [28 x 13]

R18: DEC, 6 SC, DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 6 SC, DEC, 4 SC [24]

(i): If you want to add some weight and balance to your creature, stuff according to the instructions below. Otherwise, stuff as normal with fiber fill.

(ii): First make a pellet packet. Cut a length of pantyhose, making a tight knot in one end. Fill the pocket with enough poly pellets to give weight to the body, but avoid overstuffing at this will stretch out and make gaps in the body. Close the pocket with a knot on the open end of the pantyhose and cut away any excess material.

(iii): Stuff some fiberfill into the front end of the body before inserting the pellet fill packet, then lightly stuff fiberfill between the packet and top inside of the body.

R19: DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 4 SC [20]

R20: DEC, 2 SC, DEC, 4 SC, DEC, 2 SC, DEC, 4 SC [16]

R21: 2 DEC, 4 SC, 2 DEC, 4 SC [12]

(iv): Leave long tail for sewing body closed.

(vi): Finish stuffing, squish sides of end row together and sew closed.

Assembly  

(1) Pin the legs to the body with the long side pointed forward and parallel with the body. The left and right leg of each pair should be 2 to 3 stitches apart. Pin the front legs between R4 and R9 of the body. Pin back legs between R12 and R17. Sew to attach, hide thread ends in body.  

(2) Pin the head to the body, connecting R3 and R10 of the body to the R22 and R19 of the head, respectively. Sew to attach, hide thread ends in body.  

(3) Pin eyes 3 to 4 stitches apart between R10 and R16 of the head. Sew to attach, hide thread ends in head.  

(4) Use a long length of white yarn to embroider highlights in the upper left portion of each eyes. Hide thread ends in head.  

(5) Use a length of black yarn to embroider mouth 2 to 3 rows below the eyes. Hide thread ends in head.  

(6) Fluff up your scrungly little creature (they will be a little squished from all the sewing) and enjoy!  

[sudden-stops-kill]

r world

[crochets-trinkets]

GLAMROCK FREDDY

Pattern below cut

MR = magic ring

sc = single crochet

(#) = the number of stitches at the end of the step/row

inc = increase, two stitches in one stitch

dec = decrease, stitch-2-together

R# = row number

* = where I stuffed polyester filling

Ch = chain

slst = slip stitch

BLO = back loop only

FLO = front loop only

Body -> Head (Orange)

R1: MR + 6 sc

R2: inc x 6 (12)

R3: sc, inc x 6 (18)

R4: 2 sc, inc x 6 (24)

R5: 3 sc, inc x 6 (30)

R6: 4 sc, inc x 6 (36)

R7: 5 sc, inc x 6 (42)

R8-11: sc x 42 (42) - 4 rows

R12: 5sc, dec x 6 (36)

R13: sc x 36 (36)

R14: 4 sc, dec x 6 (30)

R15-16: sc x 30 (30) - 2 rows

R17: 3 sc, dec x 6 (24)

R18: sc x 24 (24)

R19: 2 sc, dec x 6 (18)

R20-21: sc x 18 (18) - 2 rows

R22: sc, dec x 6 (12)

R23: sc x 12 (12)

R24: sc, inc x 6 (18)

R25: 2 sc, inc x 6 (24)

R26: 3 sc, inc x 6 (30)

R27: 4 sc, inc x 6 (36)

R28: 5 sc, inc x 6 (42)

R29: sc x 42 (42)

R30: 5 sc, dec x 6 (36)

R31: 4 sc, dec x 6 (30)

R32-34: sc x 30 (30) - 3 rows

R35: 3 sc, dec x 6 (24)

R36: 2 sc, dec x 6 (18)

R37: sc, dec x 6 (12)*

R38: dec x 6 (6)

sc edges together

Ears x2

**Yellow**

R1: MR + 6 sc

R2: inc x 6 (12)

R3: sc, inc x 6 (18)

R4: 2 sc, inc x 6 (24)

Fasten off

**Orange**

Repeat rows 1-4

R5: 3 sc, inc x6 (30)

R6: 4 sc, inc x 6 (36)

Fasten off & sew the yellow and orange pieces together

Legs x2

**start with yellow yarn**

R1: MR + 6 sc

R2: inc x 6 (12)

R3: sc, inc x 6 (18)

R4: 2 sc, inc x 6 (24)

R5: 3 sc, inc x 6 (30)

R6: 4 sc, inc x 6 (36)

**Invisible Color Change to Orange**

R7-9: sc x 36 (36) - 3 rows

R10: 4 sc, dec x 6 (30)

R11-12: sc x30 (30) - 2 rows

R13: 3 sc, dec (24)

R14-16: sc x24 (24) - 3 rows

R17: 2 sc, dec x6 (18)

R18: sc x18 (18)*

R19: sc, dec (12)

R20-21: sc x12 (12) - 2 rows

sc edges together

Arms x2

**start with yellow**

R1: MR + 6 sc

R2: inc x6 (12)

R3: sc, inc x 6 (18)

**Invisible Color Change to Orange**

R4-6: sc x18 (18) - 3 rows

R7: sc, dec (12)

R8-9: sc x12 (12)* - 2 rows

Mouth/Snout (Yellow)

R1: MR + 6

R2: inc x6 (12)

R3: sc, inc x6 (18)

R4: 2 sc, inc (24)

R5: 3 sc, inc x6 (30)

R6-9: sc x30 (30) - 4 rows

Belly

- May need adjustment based on leg placement OR sew belly on first

R1: Ch 7

R2: sc

R3-10: Ch 1, then sc in every stitch except last stitch (inc/2 in last stitch) - 8 rows

R11-15: ch 1, then sc in every stitch - 5 rows

R16-18: ch 1, then sc in every stitch except last 2 stitchs (dec/stitch-2-gether last 2 stitches) - 3 rows

R19-21: ch 1, then sc in every stitch - 3 rows

**Cross stitch/embroider the blue lightning bolt before sewing the yellow belly onto the body**

Eyes x2

**White**

R1: MR + 6 sc

R2: inc x6 (12)

R3: sc, inc x6 (18)

R4: 2 sc, inc x6 (24)

**Blue**

Rows 1-3

**Black**

Row 1 + slst

Alt. Eyes (Untested) x2

**start with black yarn**

R1: MR + 6 sc, slst

**switch to blue yarn**

R2: inc x6 (12)

R3: sc, inc x6 (18)

**Invisible Color Change to White**

R4: 2 sc, inc x8; then slst

Hat (Black)

R1: MR + 6 sc

R2: inc x6 (12)

R3: sc, inc x6 (18)

R4: BLO sc x18 (18)

R5-7: sc x18 (18)

R8: 3 sc, inc x6 (24)

Bow Tie

[knitpool]

Free Pattern for you

Happy Sunday, all! I recently typed out the pattern I used to make my Nano Hulk. It’s the same as the knit-along, but without the pictures and probably more legible. (I’ve learned more about writing out patterns since then.) You can find the knit-along series by searching for #nanohulk. Please let me know if you spot mistakes or confusing bits. I’m glad to help.

The Nano Other Guy Pattern

Materials and Tools:

Fingering weight yarn in:

Green

Black for eyes, mouth, and hair (for the hair, you can use worsted weight to save time and for a fuzzier hairdo)

Brown (or other color for trousers)

Small amount of polyester stuffing

2.5 mm double pointed needles (or two circular needles) for knitting in the round

Darning needle

Crochet hook

Gauge:

Since this is not a garment, gauge is not as important. The fabric should be tight enough that the stuffing won’t show through – about 9 stitches per inch. If you decide to use worsted weight, I recommend 3.25 mm needles.

 Abbreviations:

BO = bind off

CO = cast on

inc = increase into next stitch (I usually use RLI – right lifted increase or LLI - left lifted increase, but any increase method should be fine. I have marked in [brackets] where I would put RLI or LLI.

k = knit

k2tog = knit two together

kfb = knit through front and back

p = purl

R = Round

ssk = slip 1, slip 1, knit slipped stitches together

sts = stitches

 Instructions:

Feet:

CO 18 sts

Divide to work in the round.

Round 1: Join and knit

R2: Kfb every stitch (36 sts)

R3-5: Knit 3 rounds

Start foot shaping:

R6: K1, ssk, k6, k2tog 3 times, k6, ssk 3 times, k6, k2tog, k1 (28 sts)

R7: K7, k2tog twice, k6, ssk twice, k7 (24 sts)

R8: K7, k2tog twice, k2, ssk twice, k7 (20 sts)

R9: K6, k2tog twice, ssk twice, k6 (16 sts)

R10: K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k4, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1 (12 sts)

Start leg:

R11-14: Knit 4 rounds

R15: k1, inc [RLI], k10, inc [LLI], k1 (14 sts) [My preferred increase is RLI or LLI, but any increase should work.]

R16: Knit

R17: K2, inc [RLI], k10, inc [LLI], k2 (16 sts)

R18-23: Knit 6 rounds

Break yarn and place on holders. Knit another leg.

Body:

Redistribute the live stitches at the top of each leg onto the needles so the legs are side by side, and you have 8 stitches in front and 8 in back.

Round 1: Starting in the middle of the back, join yarn and knit 1 round to join legs. (32sts)

R2: K6, k2tog, ssk, k12, k2tog, ssk, k6 (28 sts)

R3-8: Knit 6 rounds

R9: K3, inc [RLI], k22, inc [LLI], k3 (30 sts)

R10-11: Knit 2 rounds

R12: K4, inc [RLI], k8, inc [LLI], k6, inc [RLI], k8, inc [LLI], k4 (34 sts)

R13-14: Knit 2 rounds

R15: K4, inc [RLI], k10, inc [LLI], k6, inc [RLI], k10, inc [LLI], k4 (38 sts)

R16-20: Knit 5 rounds

R21: K4, k2tog 6 times, k6, k2tog 6 times, k4 (26 sts)

 I usually sew up the bottom of the feet and crotch here. You can also stuff the legs.

 Head:

Round 1-6: Knit 6 rounds

R7: (k1, kfb, kfb) 8 times, k2 (42 sts)

R8-25: Knit 18 rounds

R26: (k2, k2tog) 10 times, k2 (32 sts)

R27: Knit

R28: (k1, k2tog) 10 times, k2 (22 sts)

R29: k2tog 11 times (11 sts)

Break yarn and thread through stitches, leaving a longish tail for sewing up. Finish stuffing the head, body, and legs. Pull tight and fasten off.

Make his neck by running yarn through stitches on the third round below the increases for the head. Pull the yarn to make a neck and fasten off. No need to make this super tight.

Arms:

CO 12

Round 1: Join and knit

R2: Kfb every stitch (24 sts)

R3-8: Knit 6 rounds

R9: K1, ssk twice, k2, k2tog twice, k2, ssk twice, k2, k2tog twice, k1 (16 sts)

R10: Knit

R11: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1 (12 sts)

R12-14: Knit 3 rounds

R15: K2, inc [RLI], k7, inc [LLI], k3 (14)

R16: Knit

R17: K3, inc [RLI], k8, inc [RLI], k3 (16)

R18-23: Knit 6 rounds

R24: K3, inc [RLI], k1, inc [RLI], k8, inc [LLI], k1, inc [LLI], k3 (20 sts)

R25-27: Knit 3 rounds

R28: (K1, k2tog) 6 times, k2 (14 sts)

R29: Knit

R30: K2tog to end (7 sts)

Break the yarn, thread through the remaining stitches, stuff and fasten off. Make an identical second arm.

Making up: Sew the arms to the body by pinning the arms to the body. Using a darning needle, pass a strand of yarn through the shoulder of one arm, though the body, and into the other arm. Go back and forth two or three times, then fasten off, hiding the ends in the body. Now is also a good time to make a little green stitch for a belly button.

Eyes and mouth:

Mark eyes with pins about halfway up Nano Hulk’s face with 4 stitches between each pin. Once you have them in the right place, embroider the eyes and mouth by using whatever technique works. I usually do three simple stitches for each eye and chain stitch a mouth. Don’t forget the eyebrows!

Ear: (Knit flat)

CO 4

Knit 5 rows of stocking stitch.

BO

Make 2.

Fold the ears in half, lining up the CO and BO edges. Sew to the sides of Nano Hulk’s head. Line them up  about even with his eyes.

Hair:

Cut strands of yarn in 4 in. lengths. I use worsted weight so that it goes more quickly. Fold in half and hook through the top of his head using a crochet hook in the way you might make a fringe or latch hook rug. You will have to give him a haircut, but using shorter strands is fiddley. There are probably other ways to add hair, but I like this because his hair ends up floofy.

 Trousers:

Trousers are knitted from the waist down, then divided, and each leg knitted separately in the round.

CO 32 sts

Round 1-2: Join and work 2 rounds of k1 p1 rib.

R3-10: Knit 8 rounds.

Divide for legs

R11: K8, CO 2 (for the crotch), slide next 16 sts to holders (to be knitted later), continue to knit remaining 8 stitches. (18 sts on the needles)

R12-15: Knit 4 rounds

BO

Add new yarn at side.

R1 (of second leg): K8, CO 2 for crotch, k8 to end of round

R2-5: Knit 4 rounds

BO

Sew in ends, and sew up crotch. Dress your nano!!

 Contact me at knitpool@gmail.com for questions or comments!

©Tanglepenny LLC (2021). Provided for fun and personal use only. Reproduction for sale or profit is not permitted. For further information.