#Polishing of Intermediate Shaft | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

thecolourfuleye · 3 years

Text

How Are Colored Contact Lenses Made?

The contact lens is a device worn in the eye to correct vision, although some people wear colored contact lenses to enhance or change their eye color. The thin plastic lens floats on a film of tears directly over the cornea. For some forms of eye disease, contact lenses correct vision better than conventional spectacles. Many people prefer contact lenses over glasses for cosmetic reasons, and active sports enthusiasts prefer contact lens because of the freedom it provides them. There are basically three types of lenses: soft, hard, and gas-permeable. Soft contact lenses are usually more comfortable to wear, but they also tear more easily than hard contact lenses. Hard lenses also tend to "pop" out more frequently. Gas-permeable lenses are a compromise between the hard and soft, allowing greater comfort than hard lenses but less chance of tearing than soft lenses. Contacts are usually worn during the day and taken out every night for cleaning. Extended-wear lenses allow users to leave in their contacts for longer periods of time, even when they're sleeping. More recently, one-a-day contact lenses are gaining popularity among lens wearers. These contacts are worn for only one day and thrown away, eliminating the hassle of cleaning them every night.

Raw Materials

The raw material for contact lenses is a plastic polymer. (A polymer is a blend of materials created by linking the molecules of different chemical substances.) Hard contact lenses are made of some variant of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA). Soft contact lenses are made of a polymer such as poly hydroxyethyl methacrylate (pHEMA) that has hydrophilic qualities, that is, it can soak up water and still retain its shape and optic functions. The science of lens material is always being updated by lens manufacturers, and the specific material of any contact lens may differ depending on the maker.

The Manufacturing Process

Contact lenses may be produced by cutting a blank on a lathe, or by a molding process. The forming of the lens involves shaping the plastic into specified curvatures. The major curves of the lens are named the central anterior curve (CAC) and the central posterior curve (CPC). The CAC refers to the overall curve of the side of the lens that faces out. This outer contour produces the correct refractive change to fit the patient's visual needs. The CPC is the concave inner side of the lens. This conforms to the measurements of the patient's eye. Usually these two curves are formed first, and the lens is then called semi-finished. The lens is deemed finished when peripheral and intermediate curves are formed, and the edge is shaped.

Molding method

1 Molding the lens can be carried out in several different ways. The lenses first developed in Prague were spin-cast. Three different fluids were poured into open rotating molds. The outside curvature of the lens was shaped by the mold, and the inside curvature was formed according to the speed of the rotation of the mold. The centrifugal force of the spinning mold led to the polymerization of the fluids so that the molecular chains linked to form the required hydrophilic plastic. A more reliable mass-production Contact Lens method is injection molding. In injection molding, the molten plastic is injected into the mold under pressure. Then the lens is removed from the mold and cooled. The lens is then finished on a lathe. It is also possible to produce lenses entirely through molding, that is, they need no lathe cutting. This is a recent development, made possible through highly automated, computer controlled mold production.

Lathe process

2 The initial forming of the lens can also be done by cutting on a lathe. First a blank is made. The blank is a circle only slightly larger than the size of the finished lens. This can be cut from a plastic rod, or stamped from a plastic sheet. Next the blank is fastened to a steel button with a drop of molten wax. The button is then centered on a lathe, which begins to spin at high speed. A cutting tool, which may be a diamond or a laser, makes concave cuts in the blank to form the CPC. Indicators on the lathe measure the depth of the cuts to guide the lens operator.

The button holding the blank is next moved to a lapping machine. The lapping machine holds the blank against a lapper, which is a revolving disk coated with an abrasive compound. The shape of the lapper matches the CPC of the lens. The lapping machine spins the blank in one direction, and the lapper in the other. It also moves the blank in a small figure eight motion. The abrasion polishes the lens surface.

The polished lens is then mounted on a steel shaft called an arbor. The end of the arbor has been ground to match the CPC so the lens will fit on the shaft. The arbor is installed in a lathe, and the operator makes convex cuts in the lens to form the other major curve, the CAC. Now this side of the lens is polished, and the lapper is modified to fit the convex CAC. When this second side of the lens is polished, the lens is considered semi-finished.

Finishing

3 The contact lens requires several more curves to be ground before the lens will fit exactly on the patient's eye. The final curves are the peripheral anterior and posterior curves and the intermediate anterior and posterior curves, which govern the shape of the lens nearest and next-nearest the edge. The lens is mounted on an arbor again by suction or with double-sided tape. The arbor is installed in the lathe or grinding machine. These shallower cuts may be ground with emery paper or cut with a razor blade. The diameter of the lens may also be trimmed at this time.

Quality control

4 Quality control is very important for contact lenses, since they are medical devices and they must be custom fit. The lenses are inspected after each stage of the manufacturing process. The lenses are examined under magnification for anomalies. They are also measured by means of a shadow graph. A magnified shadow of the lens is cast on a screen imprinted with a graph for measuring diameter and curvature. Any errors in the lens shape show up in the shadow. This process may be automatically performed by computer.

Packaging

5 After the lens has passed inspection, it is sterilized. Lens are boiled in a mixture of water and salt for several hours to soften the lens. Next, the lens are packaged. Standard packaging for lenses is a glass vial, filled with a saline solution and stoppered with rubber or metal. The hydrophilic material of soft contact lenses soaks up the saline solution, which is similar to human tears, and becomes soft and pliable. The lenses in this state are ready to wear.

The Future

The material for contact lenses is the subject of much research. Scientists are investigating different chemical recipes that may give plastic more desirable characteristics. One polymer currently being researched is a silicon-oxygen compound called siloxane. Siloxane forms a thin, flexible film and admits oxygen through to the eye 25 times better than current standard soft lenses. There are disadvantages to this compound, however: siloxane does not wet easily and it attracts lipids (fats) to its surface, causing it to cloud. Researchers have found a way to add flourine molecules to the siloxane compound, causing the material to resist lipids. Then they chemically attach a wetting agent, which changes its molecular shape when boiled in a saline solution, so that the material can soak up water like traditional soft lens. This material may ultimately lead to extended-wear contacts that can be worn for weeks at a time.

Researchers are also investigating new polymers that can be used for sclera lenses. For most people, comeal lenses are the norm, but the large sclera lenses are useful for patients with severely damaged corneas. Depending on the eye problem, some patients cannot regain their sight without a corneal transplant, but sclera lenses may help patients avoid eye surgery. Sclera lenses rest on the white part of the eye and form a vault over the cornea itself. This space over the cornea is filled with artificial tears, which serve to smooth out the cornea's damaged surface. In the past, sclera lenses have been uncomfortable because they do not allow enough oxygen to the eye, but investigations into new materials are focusing on more oxygen-permeable lenses.

Material for oxygen-permeable lenses has also been experimented on the space shuttle Endeavour. The designers of the experiment believe that micro-gravity conditions would promote a lens material that repels debris better and processes oxygen more effectively than polymers made in traditional labs. If commercially feasible, a new generation of contact lenses may be manufactured in space.

#coloredcontacts coloredcontactlenses contactlenses howcontactlensesmade

3 notes · View notes

fastpcba15 · 4 years

Text

Four special electroplating methods for circuit board electroplating

It is often necessary to plate rare metals on board edge connectors, board edge protruding contacts or gold fingers to provide lower contact resistance and higher wear resistance. This technique is called finger row plating or protruding part plating. Gold is often plated on the protruding contacts of the board edge connector with the inner plating layer of nickel. The gold fingers or the protruding parts of the board edge are manually or automatically plated. At present, the gold plating on the contact plug or gold finger has been plated or lead , Instead of plated buttons. The process is as follows:

1) Strip the coating to remove the tin or tin-lead coating on the protruding contacts

2) Rinse with washing water

3) Scrubbing with abrasives

4) Activation is diffused in 10% sulfuric acid

5) The thickness of nickel plating on the protruding contacts is 4 -5μm

6) Clean and demineralize water

7) Gold penetration solution treatment

8) Gold plated

9) Cleaning

10) Drying

The second type, through-hole plating

There are many ways to build a layer of electroplating layer that meets the requirements on the hole wall of the substrate drilled hole. This is called hole wall activation in industrial applications. The commercial production process of its printed circuit requires multiple intermediate storage tanks. The tank has its own control and maintenance requirements. Through-hole plating is a necessary follow-up process of the drilling process. When the drill bit drills through the copper foil and the substrate underneath, the heat generated melts the insulating synthetic resin that constitutes most of the substrate matrix, the molten resin and other drilling debris It is accumulated around the hole and coated on the newly exposed hole wall in the copper foil. In fact, this is harmful to the subsequent electroplating surface. The molten resin will also leave a layer of hot shaft on the hole wall of the substrate, which exhibits poor adhesion to most activators. This requires the development of a class of similar stain removal and etch back chemical technology.

A more suitable method for prototyping printed circuit boards is to use a specially designed low-viscosity ink to form a highly adhesive and highly conductive film on the inner wall of each through hole. In this way, there is no need to use multiple chemical treatment processes, only one application step, followed by thermal curing, can form a continuous film on the inside of all the hole walls, which can be directly electroplated without further treatment. This ink is a resin-based substance that has strong adhesion and can be easily adhered to the walls of most thermally polished holes, thus eliminating the step of etchback.

The third type, reel linkage type selective plating

The pins and pins of electronic components, such as connectors, integrated circuits, transistors, and flexible printed circuits, all use selective plating to obtain good contact resistance and corrosion resistance. This electroplating method can be manual or automatic. It is very expensive to selectively plate each pin individually, so batch welding must be used. Usually, the two ends of the metal foil that is rolled to the required thickness are punched, cleaned by chemical or mechanical methods, and then selectively used like nickel, gold, silver, rhodium, button or tin-nickel alloy, copper-nickel alloy , Nickel-lead alloy, etc. for continuous electroplating. In the electroplating method of selective plating, first coat a layer of resist film on the part of the metal copper foil board that does not need to be electroplated, and electroplating only on the selected copper foil part.

The fourth type, brush plating

Another method of selective plating is called "brush plating". It is an electrodeposition technique, and not all parts are immersed in the electrolyte during the electroplating process. In this kind of electroplating technology, only a limited area is electroplated, and there is no effect on the rest. Usually, rare metals are plated on selected parts of the printed circuit board, such as areas such as edge connectors. Brush plating is used more when repairing discarded circuit boards in electronic assembly shops. Wrap a special anode (a chemically inactive anode, such as graphite) in an absorbent material (cotton swab), and use it to bring the electroplating solution to the place where electroplating is needed.

#PCB manufacturing #pcb assembly #flexible pcb #custom circuit board

0 notes

yarotours · 5 years

Text

Egyptian pyramids

The Egyptian pyramids are ancient pyramid-shaped masonry structures located in Egypt. As of November 2008, sources cite either 118 or 138 as the number of identified Egyptian pyramids. Most were built as tombs for the country’s pharaohs and their consorts during the Old and Middle Kingdom periods.

The earliest known Egyptian pyramids are found at Saqqara, northwest of Memphis. The earliest among these is the Pyramid of Djoser, which was built c. 2630–2610 BC during the Third Dynasty. This pyramid and its surrounding complex were designed by the architect Imhotep, and are generally considered to be the world’s oldest monumental structures constructed of dressed masonry.

The most famous Egyptian pyramids are those found at Giza, on the outskirts of Cairo. Several of the Giza pyramids are counted among the largest structures ever built.[8] The Pyramid of Khufu at Giza is the largest Egyptian pyramid. It is the only one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World still in existence.

Historical development By the time of the Early Dynastic Period, those with sufficient means were buried in bench-like structures known as mastabas

The second historically-documented Egyptian pyramid is attributed to the architect Imhotep, who planned what Egyptologists believe to be a tomb for the pharaoh Djoser. Imhotep is credited with being the first to conceive the notion of stacking mastabas on top of each other, creating an edifice composed of a number of “steps” that decreased in size towards its apex. The result was the Pyramid of Djoser, which was designed to serve as a gigantic stairway by which the soul of the deceased pharaoh could ascend to the heavens. Such was the importance of Imhotep’s achievement that he was deified by later Egyptians

The most prolific pyramid-building phase coincided with the greatest degree of absolutist rule. It was during this time of the Old Kingdom of Egypt that the most famous pyramids, the Giza pyramid complex, were built. Over time, as authority became less centralized, the ability and willingness to harness the resources required for construction on this massive scale decreased, and later pyramids were smaller, less well-built and often hastily constructed.

Long after the end of Egypt’s own pyramid-building period, a burst of pyramid building occurred in what is present-day Sudan, after much of Egypt came under the rule of the Kingdom of Kush, which was then based at Napata. Napatan rule, known as the 25th Dynasty, lasted from 750 BCE to 664 BCE, and during that time Egyptian culture made an indelible impression on the Kushites. The Meroitic period of Kushite history, when the kingdom was centered on Meroë, (approximately in the period between 300 BCE and 300 CE), experienced a full-blown pyramid-building revival, which saw more than two hundred Egyptian-inspired indigenous royal pyramid-tombs constructed in the vicinity of the kingdom’s capital cities.

Al-Aziz Uthman (1171–1198), the second Ayyubid Sultan of Egypt, tried to destroy the Giza pyramid complex. He gave up after only damaging the Pyramid of Menkaure because the task proved too large.

Pyramid symbolism

The shape of Egyptian pyramids is thought to represent the primordial mound from which the Egyptians believed the earth was created. The shape of a pyramid is thought to be representative of the descending rays of the sun, and most pyramids were faced with polished, highly reflective white limestone, in order to give them a brilliant appearance when viewed from a distance. Pyramids were often also named in ways that referred to solar luminescence. For example, the formal name of the Bent Pyramid at Dahshur was The Southern Shining Pyramid, and that of Senwosret at el-Lahun was Senwosret is Shining.

While it is generally agreed that pyramids were burial monuments, there is continued disagreement on the particular theological principles that might have given rise to them. One suggestion is that they were designed as a type of “resurrection machine.”

The Egyptians believed the dark area of the night sky around which the stars appear to revolve was the physical gateway into the heavens. One of the narrow shafts that extend from the main burial chamber through the entire body of the Great Pyramid points directly towards the center of this part of the sky. This suggests the pyramid may have been designed to serve as a means to magically launch the deceased pharaoh’s soul directly into the abode of the gods

All Egyptian pyramids were built on the west bank of the Nile, which, as the site of the setting sun, was associated with the realm of the dead in Egyptian mythology

Number and location of pyramids

In 1842, Karl Richard Lepsius produced the first modern list of pyramids – now known as the Lepsius list of pyramids – in which he counted 67. A great many more have since been discovered. As of November 2008, 118 Egyptian pyramids have been identified.[3]

The location of Pyramid 29, which Lepsius called the “Headless Pyramid”, was lost for a second time when the structure was buried by desert sands after Lepsius’s survey. It was found again only during an archaeological dig conducted in 2008.

Many pyramids are in a poor state of preservation or buried by desert sands. If visible at all, they may appear as little more than mounds of rubble. As a consequence, archaeologists are continuing to identify and study previously unknown pyramid structures.

The most recent pyramid to be discovered was that of Sesheshet at Saqqara, mother of the Sixth Dynasty pharaoh Teti, announced on 11 November 2008

All of Egypt’s pyramids, except the small Third Dynasty pyramid of Zawyet el-Amwat (or Zawyet el-Mayitin), are sited on the west bank of the Nile, and most are grouped together in a number of pyramid fields. The most important of these are listed geographically, from north to south, below.

Abu Rawash is the site of Egypt’s most northerly pyramid (other than the ruins of Lepsius pyramid number one)[5]— the mostly ruined Pyramid of Djedefre, son and successor of Khufu. Originally it was thought that this pyramid had never been completed, but the current archaeological consensus is that not only was it completed, but that it was originally about the same size as the Pyramid of Menkaure, which would have placed it among the half-dozen or so largest pyramids in Egypt.

Its location adjacent to a major crossroads made it an easy source of stone. Quarrying, which began in Roman times, has left little apart from about 15 courses of stone superimposed upon the natural hillock that formed part of the pyramid’s core. A small adjacent satellite pyramid is in a better state of preservation.

Giza

Giza is the location of the Pyramid of Khufu (also known as the “Great Pyramid” and the “Pyramid of Cheops”); the somewhat smaller Pyramid of Khafre (or Chephren); the relatively modest-sized Pyramid of Menkaure (or Mykerinus), along with a number of smaller satellite edifices known as “Queen’s pyramids”; and the Great Sphinx of Giza.

Of the three, only Khafre’s pyramid retains part of its original polished limestone casing, near its apex. This pyramid appears larger than the adjacent Khufu pyramid by virtue of its more elevated location, and the steeper angle of inclination of its construction – it is, in fact, smaller in both height and volume.

The Giza pyramid complex has been a popular tourist destination since antiquity and was popularized in Hellenistic times when the Great Pyramid was listed by Antipater of Sidon as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Today it is the only one of those wonders still in existence.

Zawyet el-Aryan

This site, halfway between Giza and Abusir, is the location for two unfinished Old Kingdom pyramids. The northern structure’s owner is believed to be pharaoh Nebka, while the southern structure, known as the Layer Pyramid, may be attributable to the Third Dynasty pharaoh Khaba, a close successor of Sekhemkhet. If this attribution is correct, Khaba’s short reign could explain the seemingly unfinished state of this step pyramid. Today it stands around 17 m (56 ft) high; had it been completed, it is likely to have exceeded 40 m

Abusir

There are a total of fourteen pyramids at this site, which served as the main royal necropolis during the Fifth Dynasty. The quality of construction of the Abusir pyramids is inferior to those of the Fourth Dynasty – perhaps signaling a decrease in royal power or a less vibrant economy. They are smaller than their predecessors, and are built of low-quality local limestone.

The three major pyramids are those of Niuserre, which is also the best preserved, Neferirkare Kakai and Sahure. The site is also home to the incomplete Pyramid of Neferefre. Most of the major pyramids at Abusir were built using similar construction techniques, comprising a rubble core surrounded by steps of mud bricks with a limestone outer casing. The largest of these Fifth Dynasty pyramids, the Pyramid of Neferirkare Kakai, is believed to have been built originally as a step pyramid some 70 m (230 ft) high and then later transformed into a “true” pyramid by having its steps filled in with loose masonry.

Saqqara

Major pyramids located here include the Pyramid of Djoser – generally identified as the world’s oldest substantial monumental structure to be built of dressed stone – the Pyramid of Userkaf, the Pyramid of Teti and the Pyramid of Merikare, dating to the First Intermediate Period of Egypt. Also at Saqqara is the Pyramid of Unas, which retains a pyramid causeway that is one of the best-preserved in Egypt. Together with the pyramid of Userkaf, this pyramid was the subject of one of the earliest known restoration attempts, conducted by Khaemweset, a son of Ramesses II.[17] Saqqara is also the location of the incomplete step pyramid of Djoser’s successor Sekhemkhet, known as the Buried Pyramid. Archaeologists believe that had this pyramid been completed, it would have been larger than Djoser’s.

South of the main pyramid field at Saqqara is a second collection of later, smaller pyramids, including those of Pepi I, Djedkare Isesi, Merenre, Pepi II and Ibi. Most of these are in a poor state of preservation.

The Fourth Dynasty pharaoh Shepseskaf either did not share an interest in, or have the capacity to undertake pyramid construction like his predecessors. His tomb, which is also sited at south Saqqara, was instead built as an unusually large mastaba and offering temple complex. It is commonly known as the Mastabat al-Fir’aun.

A previously unknown pyramid was discovered at north Saqqara in late 2008. Believed to be the tomb of Teti’s mother, it currently stands approximately 5 m (16 ft) high, although the original height was closer to 14 m (46 ft).

Dahshur

This area is arguably the most important pyramid field in Egypt outside Giza and Saqqara, although until 1996 the site was inaccessible due to its location within a military base and was relatively unknown outside archaeological circles.

The southern Pyramid of Sneferu, commonly known as the Bent Pyramid, is believed to be the first Egyptian pyramid intended by its builders to be a “true” smooth-sided pyramid from the outset; the earlier pyramid at Meidum had smooth sides in its finished state – but it was conceived and built as a step pyramid, before having its steps filled in and concealed beneath a smooth outer casing of dressed stone. As a true smooth-sided structure, the Bent Pyramid was only a partial success – albeit a unique, visually imposing one; it is also the only major Egyptian pyramid to retain a significant proportion of its original smooth outer limestone casing intact. As such it serves as the best contemporary example of how the ancient Egyptians intended their pyramids to look. Several kilometres to the north of the Bent Pyramid is the last – and most successful – of the three pyramids constructed during the reign of Sneferu; the Red Pyramid is the world’s first successfully completed smooth-sided pyramid. The structure is also the third largest pyramid in Egypt – after the pyramids of Khufu and Khafra at Giza.

Also at Dahshur is one of two pyramids built by Amenemhat III, known as the Black Pyramid, as well as a number of small, mostly ruined subsidiary pyramids.

0 notes

seanoheronlukebrownyachts-blog · 6 years

Text

US $ 2,565,000.00

Come aboard at the Palm Beach Boat Show March 28th – 31st – Ramp 8

Additional Specs, Equipment and Information:

Boat Name

ARMAGNAC

Specs

Builder: Offshore Flag of Registry: United States

Dimensions

LOA: 76 ft 0 in Beam: 19 ft 3 in Maximum Draft: 5 ft 8 in Dry Weight: 140000 lbs

Engines

Engine 1: Engine Brand: Caterpillar Engine Model: C-32 Engine Type: Inboard Engine/Fuel Type: Diesel Location: Port Engine Hours: 1560 Engine Power: 1550 HP

Engine 2: Engine Brand: Caterpillar Engine Model: C-32 Engine Type: Inboard Engine/Fuel Type: Diesel Location: Starboard Engine Hours: 1560 Engine Power: 1550 HP

Tanks

Fresh Water Tanks: (600 Gallons) Fuel Tanks: (2400 Gallons)

Accommodations

Number of cabins: 3 Number of heads: 4

Introduction This one owner 76 Offshore features a long list of desirable options in addition to the industry’s most impressive standard equipment inventory.

Armagnac features optional Caterpillar C-32 1550 HP engines and a breathtaking high gloss interior finish that will impress the most demanding future owner. Add to that, bow & stern thrusters, ABT 9 sq. ft. stabilizers, two Northern Lights 25 KW generators, his and hers heads in the master stateroom, plus excellent crew quarters aft of the engine room….In short, a total “big boat” systems design with the legendary Crealock “Softest ride on the water” hull design, built for all sea and weather conditions!

Annual maintenance just performed on 10/22/18 to include but not limited to: Engine/Generator service, bottom paint, zincs, hull wax, and thru hull service.

Hull Design Planing hull, deep vee bow entry, generous flair @ bow sections, raised chine, prop pockets, integral swim platform, keel extension for propeller protection, underwater exhaust with FRP exhaust barriers.

Hull Construction • Hand laminated FRP utilizing only bi‐directional & uni‐directional material, vacuum bagged Core Cell • Solid laminate below the water line with high quality ISO & Vinylester resins • Full‐length hull girders of high density foam cores with bi & uni‐directional material • Exterior hull finish in high gloss “Cook” gel coat, Reichold Hydrex Vinylester resin laminate • Multiple athwartship girders reducing panel size and increase impact strength • Cored structural bulkheads padded @ hull, bonded as per schedule • Full length keel increasing directional stability and propeller protection • Putty coated bilges for smooth finish • All bonding of hull to deck, roofs to cabins done with FRP, exterior finished w/gel coat • 30 mil epoxy barrier coating and bottom paint with limited 3‐year osmosis warranty • Sealed bow compartment with water tight hatch • Structural upper and lower FRP rub rails capped with solid stainless steel • Prop Pockets to reduce propeller draft • Raised chine to reduce wave noise at anchor • Port and starboard hull doors for convenient access • Portlights recessed in hull sides for protection • Hull side port lights thru bolted for added safety • Detail/whale stripe enhancing appearance

Superstructure and Deck • Hand laminated FRP utilizing bi‐directional & uni‐directional material w/Core Cell sandwich, high quality ISO resin, vacuum bagging, deck mechanically & FRP bonded to hull • Suitable high compression cores as required for hardware mounting • Exterior finished w/high gloss “Cook” gel coat all surfaces, two tone non‐skid finish at decks • Main deck soles and engine room bulkheads padded & cored w/appropriate sandwich materials • High bulwarks protecting recessed walkaround decks • Leak proof window frames molded into cabin sides • Gel coated joint at overhead deck liner to main cabin sides • Molded in multiple facet & plank lines for detailed appearance & strength

External Parts • Hand laminated FRP construction utilizing Core Cell sandwich vacuum bagging where appropriate of exterior doors, molded in recessed window & door frames & exterior window frames, radar arch, internal storage bins, port & starboard bulwark doors • Molded & gel coated finish of interiors of all FRP hatches & doors • FRP forward fashion plates and rear fashion plates • Tinted tempered window glass (10mm forward, 8mm side and aft) • Flush FRP recessed access boxes for exterior plumbing & electrical fittings • Exterior materials of gel coated FRP, stainless or optional teak, no exposed aluminum

Propulsion System • Twin C‐32 1550HP “Caterpillar” diesel engines with vibration damping mounts, 24V/75Amp alternators, ZF‐550A 2.64:1 gears w/Centra dampening & live PTO • Stainless steel #316 (w/316‐L rod) exhaust risers w/zinc plugs connecting to FRP underwater system w/bypass pipes to “Aqua Quiet” mufflers • 3″ “Aquamet #22 High Strength” propeller shafts • Bronze V struts with “Cutlass” bearings & damping insulation • Bronze intermediate struts with “Cutlass” bearings • Five blade expanded ratio computer designed propellers • Hydrodynamic stainless‐steel rudders per design • Dripless propeller shaft glands (“Tides”) with dual cooling lines • “Tides” rudder shaft seal and bearings • ABT 9′ roll fin hydraulic stabilizers and 40 hp bow & stern thrusters w/hydraulic raw water cooling pump • Twin Disc electronic engine controls @ pilothouse, flybridge and aft deck • “Hynautic” power steering system • Engine room start/stop panels with engine gages • Visual & audio alarms for engine systems @ pilothouse & flybridge

Engine Room and Bilges • Annual maintenance just performed on 10/22/18 to include but not limited to: Engine/Generator service, bottom paint, zincs, hull wax, and thru hull service. • White aluminum perforated covering on overhead, side, forward, aft engine room bulkheads covering multiple layers of the latest technology sound insulation • Welded stainless steel engine beds (electro polished) • Two marine grade aluminum fuel tanks @ forward bulkhead, sight gauges (900 gallons each) • All aluminum fuel tanks insulated to minimize condensation and noise transfer • Vinylester/FRP keel/center line fuel tank (700 gallons) • Fuel manifold system for supply & return management with 2″ crossover for port or starboard fuel fill • Sight gages (marine grade w/protective guard) at forward bulkhead fuel tanks • Marine grade bronze sea cocks for through hull skin fittings • “Groco” sea strainers at all raw water intakes • Main seawater intakes plumbed for emergency bilge pump use • Full flow stainless ball valves for all piping systems • Dual Racor marine filter system with vacuum gauge for main engines • Racor #500 marine filter systems with vacuum gauge for both generators • Tank level indicator system for fuel, water and waste tanks • Six high output 24v bilge pumps w/”Ultra” automatic switches & high‐water alarms • High output “Whale” 40 manual bilge pump • “Delta‐T” engine air intake system minimizing water ingestion, recessed & color matched to exterior • Four “Delta‐T” 11″ 120V/AC engine room blowers • Engine room 24V/DC lights X 4pcs and 120V/AC fluorescent lamps X 4 PCS • Engine room video camera system (2 cameras) • “Fire Boy” MA 1800 automatic fire extinguishing system w/engine shut down system • Stainless steel safety rails along inboard engine stringers • 24v “Reverso” fuel transfer pump • “Reverso” 24V/AC oil change system with 2 x 30‐gal oil tanks for main engines, transmissions & both generators • 24v low profile S/S dome lights @ forward pump room & thruster/chain area • Fresh water wash down faucet in engine room • Integrated overhead storage lockers above engines • Stainless floorboard frames, floorboards covered with non‐skid vinyl & trimmed with teak • Labels on all thru hulls

Equipment • Dual “Muir” 3,500lb 24V vertical anchor windlass’ with three station controls • Dual stainless CQR 110 lb. bow anchors with 300 ft 7/16” HT chain each and chain stoppers • “Hynautic” 62” trim tabs with controls @ pilothouse and fly bridge • “Steelhead” 2000 lb. hydraulic davit with cable, boom and rotation functions • “Marine Air” 90,000 BTU expansion air conditioning system • “Reverso” 24V/AC oil change system with 2 x 30‐gal oil tanks • Triple “Buell” low profile dual trumpet air horn w/120v compressor, compressor outlets @ lazarette & engine room • “Exalto” stainless articulating windshield wipers w/washer system • 5 “Tecma” silent flush heads • 120v “Headhunter” holding tank discharge pump • 24v “Sealand” standby macerator pump • Deck discharge for holding tank • Six 24v bilge pumps with “Ultra” automatic switches • “Ultra” system high water bilge alarm w/warning lights at pilothouse • Gate valve at each watertight structural bulkhead • “Headhunter Mach 5” 120v fresh water pressure pump w/filter & accumulator tank • “Headhunter” 24v standby water pressure pump • “Allcraft” 35 gallon and 12‐gallon 220v s/s hot water heaters • Two shower sump tanks designed for convenient access • Port & starboard (or fore & aft) dockside water pressure connection • Central drain system minimizing thru hull fittings • “NuTone” Central Vacuum System • Two Salon AC 12BTU Air Handlers • 18BTU AC Handler with 16BTU

Electrical System • Two “Northern Lights” 25 KW diesel generators, 24V start w/whisper sound shield with gas/water exhaust separators and E.A.R. anti vibration mounts • Four “MKl” 8D gel cell main engine start batteries (24v) • Two “MK” 4D gel cell generator start batteries (24v) • Ten “MK” 8D gel cell batteries for ship’s 24v system • Battery cross over capability for main engine and generator batteries • “Xantrex” SW‐40/24 4kw inverter/120Amp charger with high temp. shut down • “Newmar” PT‐24‐40CE, 24V ship service back up charger with high temp. shut down • “Newmar” PT‐24‐20CE, 24V engine battery charger with high temp. shut down • Additional 60amp 24v alternator on each engine for ship service systems • Digital DC charge rate, DC amp meters and DC voltmeters • 24V & 12V back‐lit distribution/circuit breaker panels w/amp & volt meters • 120V & 24OV back‐lit distribution/circuit breaker panels w/amp & voltmeters • Four “Mastervolt” 20amp converters, 24V to 12V • Two Charles Marine 50amp isolation transformers • “Marinco” Shore power 125/250V‐50A, phone and TV cable inlets port & starboard side (or fore & aft) • “Glendinning” CM‐7 cable master, 24OV 5O amp w/75′ cable located aft • Vimar switches and outlets in accommodations and living areas • Halogen overhead “Cantalupi” lighting w/dimmer controls throughout • Wall sconces or reading lights in staterooms and heads as appropriate • GFI breaker protection as appropriate @ deck, galley, heads, engine room & lazarette • Breaker protection at each AC source • Electrolysis bonding & grounding system w/two 6” x 12” zinc plates and shaft scratchers • High quality shielded RG‐6 CO AX for TVs • Tinned high temperature wiring, UL approved • “Panasonic” phone/intercom system, 7 stations • “Winegard” TV antenna booster & selector switch • ACR Search light • Spreader lights at radar arch

Electronics and Navigation Equipment FOR BOTH PILOTHOUSE AND FLYBRIDGE: • Garmin 7215 Chart Plotter / GPS • Garmin GM1 10 multi display wind/depth • Furuno RD33 depth • Simrad AP28 autopilot �� ICOM‐M604 radio • ICOM Command Mic II two stations • Furuno NavNet Vx2 radar

Entertainment • “BOSE” Stereo system • Direct TV with 5 SAT receivers • 37” LCD TV @ salon & “Polk Audio” surround speakers @ Salon • “Polk Audio” speakers @ pilothouse, master, VIP, mid guest cabin • 20” TV @ master stateroom, 15” TV @ VIP and mid guest stateroom • DVD player

Main Deck • Walkaround decks with high bulwarks midships • Two tone non‐skid @ all decks, pilothouse roof white non‐skid • Molded in multiple facet & plank lines for appearance and strength • Exterior stainless 316 grade (including screws, bolts & nuts), welds ground & polished • 1 ¼” s/s hand rails and bow • Port and starboard bulwark doors • “MarQuipt” three step side boarding ladder with integral bulwark FRP storage locker @ starboard deck • “Manship” overhead hatches w/”Oceanaire” sliding screens/shades • “Manship” s/s port lights powder coated to match gel coat • 316 s/s hawse holes w/cleats, 316 s/s bow chocks, 316 s/s deck cleats • Waterproof “Cantalupi” deck lights and LED safety lights • Aluminum reinforced exterior doors, exterior covered w/FRP & gel coated, interiors covered w/matching interior wood, stainless steel door frames • Bow & stern staffs, s/s sockets allowing port & starboard deck access from pilothouse • Port & starboard storage lockers at bow • Fresh and salt water wash downs at bow

Aft Deck Cockpit and Sport Deck • Aft deck engine & thruster controls, rudder indicator & engine start‐stop switches • Port aft deck storage cabinet with covered sink, Isotherm refer & teak ventilation grates • Starboard aft deck storage cabinet with hatch/ladder to lazarette, crew & engine room • Molded FRP seat • S/S ladder to boat deck with overhead hatch • Two aft deck flood lights with molded FRP pods • Hand held shower @ sport deck • Fresh water wash down @ sport deck • Poly Planar water proof speakers in aft deck overhead with volume control • Camera at aft deck • 60″ swim platform with 4 removable stainless 2″ diameter U‐handrails • S/S pop up cleats @ sport deck • S/S swim ladder @ sport deck folding into storage locker • Teak Decking at California Deck, Port & Starboard Stairs to Cockpit • Teak Cap rail at California Deck • Single large aft deck table with fore and aft slide • Double Gaggenau BBQ with safety switches at starboard aft deck cabinet • Aft deck wing doors

Flybridge and Boat Deck • Manship door/hatch access to/from pilothouse • Strataglass equivalent Enclosure • Helm station w/complete engine instrumentation, function alarms & rudder indicator • Lexan Venturi windshield w/stainless steel frame • Two Pompanette AS21 Helm chairs s/s flush mount pedestals with 360 degrees stainless-steel footrest • FRP “L” seat, storage under with teak ventilation slats • Two large boat deck teak with holly inlay tables with stainless-steel supports posts • Starboard cabinets with sink, stainless steel “Isotherm 85” refrigerator & teak ventilation grates • FRP radar arch with flood lights with molded FRP pods with additional custom stainless‐steel Radar Arch • Steelhead 2,000 lb. hydraulic cable, boom and rotation davit w/ dedicated hydraulic system • Maxwell Chain Counter • Boat deck drained to waterline with integral drains and scuppers • 1 ¼” s/s handrails @ boat deck w/welded s/s life lines • “Manship” stainless-steel hatch and stainless-steel ladder to California deck with stainless-steel safety rail • Stainless-steel ladder to hard top roof • Fresh water wash down outlet • Poly Planar waterproof speakers in radar arch with volume control • Custom hard top w/ stainless steel radar arch w/ dome & radar mounts

Pilothouse • Helm station w/complete engine instrumentation, function alarms & rudder indicator • Hart tank tender system for liquid levels • “Tank Watch” level indicators at holding tanks • Maxwell Chain Counter • Back lit AC & DC distribution/breaker panels • Chart table/locker w/navigation lights and magnetic compass • Halogen “Cantalupi” lighting w/dimmer controls • Rocker switches with indicator lights for bilge pumps, lighting & other functions • Three stainless “Exalto” articulating windshield wipers w/washer system • Port and starboard water tight doors with stainless articulating hinges and stainless frames • Two ventilation overhead hatches with “Oceanaire” sliding screens/shades • Two “Stidd” 500‐200 helm chairs upholstered in ultra‐leather • Raised “L” seat with dining table • Padded vinyl forward helm console counter top • Padded soft vinyl removable headliner • Installed Weems and Plath bilge counters • Mahogany plank with carpet inlay

Salon • Automatic electric opener @ sliding aft door w/fixed glass windows • Optional aft stairway to owner’s stateroom • Low large windows for “sit down” visibility • Built in “L” settee with two low plywood armrests • 37″ LCD TV & “Polk Audio” surround sound speakers • Pop‐Up TV Lift for 37″ TV • Solid wood crown molding surrounding salon • Lambrequins at windows • Halogen “Cantalupi” lighting w/dimmer controls & four 120v wall sconces • Tebe Art Pivot Light at forward port salon with Vimar dimmer • Padded soft vinyl removable headliner with burl inlay wood trim • Buffet cabinet with granite counter top at forward bulkhead • U‐Line Wine Cooler • Forward Lobby: upper cabinet over laundry area with lights and dimmer, marble crema Marfil counter top and marble backsplash • Forward Lobby: baseboards on lower lobby walls and starboard stairway

Galley • Black Galaxy Granite counter tops w/overhead hanging storage cabinets • Halogen overhead lighting w/dimmer control, under cabinet lighting • Fold out soap tray @ galley sink • Drawers and cabinets fitted w/push pull latches & lined with Formica • Large pantry w/slide out shelves & counter cabinets w/slide out shelves • “Franke” single S/S sink PCX 110‐21 with “Grohe” faucet • “Grohe” soap dispenser • “InSinkErator” ‐ S/S Classic 1Hp stainless steel garbage disposal with top switch • “Broan” trash compactor • “GE” 18″ dishwasher AC 120V (Stainless) • “GE” 30″ 220v cook top w/adjustable pot holders • “GE” 24″220V oven (below cook top) (Stainless) • “GE” Microwave/convection oven w/exhaust fan AC 120V (Stainless) • “GE” side by side refrigerator Artica 36” AC 120V (Stainless) • Solid wood crown molding surrounding galley • Mahogany plank sole • Stainless Steel Tile Backsplash

Master Stateroom • King size walk around bed with drawers & lockers under • Four large windows with storm covers • Cedar lined hanging lockers (2 large) • Built in upholstered seat w/ storage • Polk Audio speakers • 32” LCD TV with bureau drawers below • DVD Player • Insulated/cored aft & forward bulkheads • Solid wood crown molding surrounding stateroom • Halogen overhead lighting (“Cantalupi”) with dimmer controls • (2) reading lights with Vimar dimmer • (2) sconces over nightstands with Vimar dimmer • One‐piece beveled mirror over master headboard • Vanity and drawers with mirror and sconces on forward wall • Drawers and cabinet on starboard bulkhead • Curved cabinet doors to starboard cabinet • Safety escape hatch at overhead w/ drop down ladder • Padded soft vinyl removable headliner • Carpet on cabin sole

His and Hers Master Heads • Solid Mahogany high gloss finish counter tops w/6″ back & side splash w/ceramic sink, marble seat in shower • “Newport Brass” faucets, towel bars and towel rings • “Tecma” silent flush toilets (x2) • Shower with polished stainless‐steel frame, frosted glass doors with clear border trim and integral towel bars w/teak grates • Solid wood crown molding surrounding head • Halogen overhead “Cantalupi” lighting with dimmer control • Ultra‐quiet ventilation system • Mahogany plank soles • Two opening s/s port lights powder coated to match gel coat • (2) sconces with Vimar dimmer

VIP Stateroom Forward • Queen size island bed w/hinged top (or “V” berths) with drawers below • Cedar lined hanging lockers • Polk Audio speakers • 15” LCD TV • DVD Player • Solid wood overhead molding surrounding stateroom • Halogen overhead “Cantalupi” lighting with dimmer control & berth lighting • Safety escape/ventilating hatch to forward deck with “Oceanaire” shade/screen • Two “Manship” s/s opening port lights powder coated to match gel coat • Padded soft vinyl removable headliner • Carpet on cabin sole

VIP Head Forward • Marble counter top w/6″ back & side splash w/ceramic sink • Beveled mirror • Marble seat in shower • “Newport Brass” Faucets, towel bars and towel ring • Opening s/s port light powder coated to match gel coat • “Tecma” silent flush toilet • Solid wood crown molding surrounding head • Shower W/frameless glass door and integral towel bar w/teak grate • Halogen overhead “Cantalupi” lighting with dimmer control • Mahogany plank sole • Ultra‐quiet ventilation system

Guest Stateroom – Mid • Twin berths or bunks with desk • Mirror at aft berth wall • Cedar lined hanging locker • 15” LCD TV • DVD Player • Polk Audio speakers • Solid wood overhead molding surrounding stateroom • Halogen overhead Cantalupi lighting with dimmer control & berth lighting • One “Manship” s/s opening port lights powder coated to match gel coat • Padded soft vinyl removable headliner • Carpet on cabin sole

Guest Head – Mid • Marble counter top w/6″ back & side splash w/ceramic sink • Beveled mirrors on fore and aft walls overhead counter • Marble seat in shower • “Newport Brass” Faucets, towel bars and towel ring • Opening s/s port light powder coated to match gel coat • “Tecma” silent flush toilet • Shower W/frameless glass door and integral towel bar w/teak grate • Solid wood crown molding surrounding head • Halogen overhead “Cantalupi” lighting with dimmer control • Mahogany plank sole • Ultra‐quiet ventilation system

Crew Cabin and Head • Two single bunks • Hanging locker • 15″ LCD TV • Halogen overhead “Cantalupi” lighting with dimmer control • Marbleite counter top & sink with Grohe faucet • Enclosed head with “Tecma” toilet and FRP shower • Ultra‐quiet ventilation system • Two “Manship” s/s opening port lights powder coated to match gel coat • “Lonseal” vinyl wood sole • Sink & faucet, refrigerator and microwave for crew

Lazarette • Watertight access door to swim step/cockpit area • Maytag washer & dryer • 40‐gallon crew holding tank with monitor in pilothouse • Cabinets covered in off‐white Formica with teak trim • Work surfaces covered with brushed s/s with teak sea rails • Halogen overhead “Cantalupi” work lighting • Two opening portlights • Vinyl sole • Built in tool box • Full height storage cabinet on forward bulkhead with adjustable shelves

Safety Package • Horn • Ships bell • (6) Type 1 Life Jackets • (6) Type II Life Jackets • 24″ Life Ring • Hand held fire extinguishers (1 TYPE 1, 2 TYPE 11) • Flare gun kit • U.S.C.G. Navigation rules

Miscellaneous Standards • Entire main deck & lower deck interior finished in Mahogany w/ high gloss finish • Solid brass interior door hardware and locks • (4) Polyform fenders • (6) Braided dock lines

Exclusions • All personal items and art (two paintings and 1 sculpture)

Disclaimer The Company offers the details of this vessel in good faith but cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information nor warrant the condition of the vessel. A buyer should instruct his agents, or his surveyors, to investigate such details as the buyer desires validated. This vessel is offered subject to prior sale, price change, or withdrawal without notice.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

76′ Offshore Motoryacht 2010 “Armagnac” US $ 2,565,000.00 Come aboard at the Palm Beach Boat Show March 28th - 31st - Ramp 8…

0 notes

itsworn · 6 years

Text

1968 Plymouth GTX: Old Friends

In the late 1950s, when he was a little boy, Ed Mohr often accompanied his mother to the local Gulf gas station where Mohr’s older brother, Steve, worked. Steve’s pal Bob Wagner also worked at the Gulf station and as Ed grew up he, Steve and Bob became the best of friends. Typical of the time period, the three young men were united by their obsession with muscle cars in general, and their love for a certain 1968 GTX in particular. “In late 1967,” Mohr explains, “my brother and I had a good laugh when Bob went shopping for a new station wagon for his young family and instead came home with a fire-breathing, bright blue 1968 Plymouth GTX.”

Though it obviously didn’t have the cargo or people-carrying capacity of a station wagon, Wagner’s GTX did have a lot going for it. First introduced in 1967, the GTX was designed to be a muscular, upmarket addition to Plymouth’s intermediate size family of vehicles. Along with its Road Runner stablemate and the pedestrian Belvedere upon which they were both based, the GTX got a pretty substantial face-lift for 1968. Changes to the GTX included a new hood with faux vents, new grille, and taillamp assemblies, double stripes running along both sides of the car between the wheels, and revised sheetmetal all around. All together the changes yielded a less boxy, more modern, sportier, and decisively more aggressive looking car.

In 1968, as in ’67, the standard engine in the GTX was Chrysler’s venerable 440 Magnum. It was rated at a very healthy 375 hp and 480 lb-ft of torque, and to the delight of anyone who has had the pleasure of driving a 440-powered Mopar, all of that muscle comes in a package that’s very easy to actually live with, even in a daily driver. With a single Carter four-barrel, moderate hydraulic lifter flat-tappet camshaft, and relatively modest 10.1:1 compression ratio it idled well, ran smooth, required very little maintenance, and was perfectly happy with premium pump fuel. Unlike other ultra-high performance engines of the era, including its more exotic 426 Hemi big brother, which was an available option in the GTX, the 440 made truly impressive power and torque from its sheer displacement rather than hard-to-live-with race-spec high compression, a wild and high-revving solid lifter cam, and multiple carburetors. Equally important, the 440’s power was available lower in the rpm range, making it friendlier for spirited street driving.

GTX came standard with Chrysler’s better transmissions, which were otherwise optional in the company’s other intermediate cars. GTX buyers could have either a 727 TorqueFlite automatic or four-speed manual at no additional cost.

In keeping with its positioning above Chrysler’s other intermediate offerings, the GTX had a noticeably nicer interior, with bright trim and simulated woodgrain appointments borrowed from the well-appointed Sport Satellite cockpit. The GTX also had fancy, embossed vinyl upholstery instead of the Belvedere’s and Road Runner’s plain-Jane seat covers and door panels.

All of these considerations helped convince Bob Wagner that a GTX was a better idea than the station wagon he set out to buy at Van Nuys Plymouth dealer Mashak Motors on that fateful day in October of 1967. He thoroughly enjoyed his purchase for the next six or so years, but reluctantly parked it in 1973, the year that OPEC nations cut production and raised prices for their oil. When the cost of gasoline in the United States rose a staggering 40 percent, to about 55 cents per gallon for regular, in the span of only a few months, fuel-guzzling big-block muscle cars quickly lost their luster for many people. Wagner replaced his GTX with, of all things, a Honda Civic. The Civic’s 71.6-cid, 54hp engine wasn’t nearly as much fun as the seven times larger and seven times more powerful 440 in his treasured GTX, but its fuel consumption was exponentially less, and with premium gas pushing 65 cents a gallon, who could argue with that logic?

Wagner’s GTX sat outside for the next 40 years, baking in the California sun. Though it was in need of just about everything, Ed was attracted to the car — in part because of its inherent beauty but also in large measure because of the memories it held for him. So he inquired whether Wagner would be interested in selling it. “For a period of time, I had been talking to Bob about buying the car,” he recalls, “and, after seeking my brother Steve’s advice and getting his commitment to join me in the rebuild, I made the purchase in the summer of 2014. The planets just seemed to align for this purchase, and the planned restoration as both my brother and I are now retired from lifelong careers in separate auto repair businesses, he in general mechanical repair and me in collision repair. And given that we are both lifelong friends with the original owner, and that we personally know the history of this car since it was purchased from Mashak Motors in Van Nuys, California October 7, 1967, we just had to have it.”

Though the Mohr brothers intended to do a complete nut-and-bolt rotisserie restoration, they decided to try and get the car running before taking it completely apart, just to make sure there were no serious problems with the engine, which hadn’t even been turned over in some 41 years. With very little effort, it was purring like a proverbial kitten, and immediately thereafter they took the engine and drivetrain out.

The 440 engine went to the Mohr’s old friend, Bill Maropulos of Bill Maropulos Racing Engines. Maropulos is a former NHRA Comp Eliminator standout and well-known engine expert who went through the 440 from top to bottom and completely rebuilt it to factory specifications.

After the engine and drivetrain were removed the Mohr brothers systematically disassembled the remainder of the car. “We did our best to label, organize, and store every piece,” Mohr recalls. “In spite of our best effort it later became clear how critical this process was when it came to reassembly.” When the very last bits were removed, the body went to the sand blaster, a choice that the Mohrs later regretted. “We should have used beads to blast it or had it dipped.”

After getting it back from the sand blaster, they went to work straightening out the body. “The body panels were pretty wavy and the left quarter-panel, which had been damaged back when the car was new, needed to be reworked,” explains Ed. “An interesting aside about that quarter-panel, as an 18-year-old apprentice back in 1968 Bob asked me to fix that quarter which I did, or at least I thought I did until I had to rework it! Fearing embarrassment now, I spent the better part of a month just on that quarter, pushing and pulling, picking and filing until I got it where I liked it. Ultimately, every panel was worked over to remove dings and dents and each skim coated and primed and blocked several times.”

Since this GTX was delivered new in California, it never had undercoating, which is generally a blessing for a car that’s lived its whole life in a dry, salt-free, area. But on the other hand, without undercoating it’s impossible to hide cosmetic flaws on the car’s underside. “To get the underside right,” recalls Mohr, “we mounted it on a rotisserie. It stayed on the rotisserie until the underside, trunk floor, passenger compartment and engine bay were all painted, allowing us to install new brake and fuel lines while the car was still upside down.”

The Mohrs were restoring the car in Ed’s spacious home workshop, which was very convenient, but one critical piece of equipment he didn’t have was a downdraft spray booth. To achieve the stunning finish this car deserved, they decided it had to be painted in a booth, which was a logistical challenge since the car was completely disassembled. “We decided it would be easier to get the car to and through the paint shop as a rolling chassis. We bolted the engine, transmission, and K-member all together and mounted it on a dolly. Having a lift at the house the whole assembly went up through the bottom, and in less than an hour it was all bolted in. Over the next few months, we installed the front and rear suspension and made a makeshift temporary steering shaft and wheel so we could steer it around, now off to the paint shop she went. To ensure that all the jambs and pillars looked factory, the deck lid, quarter extensions, doors, fenders, hood, and front panel had to be painted off the car. This created quite a challenge, not just in the logistics of getting the car and all the pieces to and from the paint shop without damaging anything but reassembly of all the painted sheetmetal parts was a major concern and was a particularly nerve-racking exercise. To try and minimize the risk of scratching during this process prior to painting, while still in primer, all the sheetmetal was installed, adjusted for fit and the locations marked, and then removed for painting. In the end, gingerly, carefully, with a lot of help from Steve and Bob, it all went back together without a scratch.”

Over the ensuing year, the Mohrs painstakingly reassembled the entire car with a combination of new and restored original parts. Of the latter, a particular drip molding turned out to be the most challenging. “We straightened, sanded, and polished all of the stainless drip moldings and reveal moldings,” explains Mohr, “and it all went well except for one incident. While polishing a drip molding, I lost control of it and the buffer grabbed it, tied it in a knot, and shot it across the shop. I learned a lot about how far you can go with damaged stainless steel moldings after that as my pride would not let me just throw it away so, to my delight, over the next three days I managed to fix it like new, and it’s now mounted on the car.”

When they encountered difficulties with buying reproduction parts, the Mohrs went the extra distance to restore their original parts. “The grille frame and headlight doors are anodized aluminum and were on back-order forever. Step-by-step we took the old ones apart and sanded off the anodizing by hand with 80-grit, and with progressively finer sandpaper and polish got them looking beautiful. Countless hours were spent in this stage of final assembly making sure everything was as close to how it was when it left the factory. Once we received the new seat covers, headliner, and carpet, we sent it out to the upholstery shop. After a week of worrying about it she came back looking gorgeous, and we could now finish up all the little details yet remaining. The last items on order were the Magnum 500 wheels and the redline Goodyears. While waiting on those we finished the trunk carpet, spare tire, jack, and hold down. After four years, it didn’t dawn on me that we were actually done, completely out of things to do, until my brother held up the spare tire hold down J-bolt and while pointing at it with a funny look on his face and he said, ‘this is it, this is the last piece. We are done!’”

As often happens, finishing the restoration was bittersweet. Despite some difficulties it was, overall, a very enjoyable experience for Mohr, largely because of the memories and emotions attached to his GTX. “To say this car is special to us is an understatement,” he reflects. “It’s not just because of the history, but what this project, on this particular car, has done for me and my family and friends. Everybody wanted to help and to see the progress we made, thus giving them a reason to visit more often. My wife, Elizabeth, joined in handling paper work and keeping us all fed on work days. It gave my brother and I a compelling reason to get together much more than we otherwise would have, and on many occasions, Bob would come over to lend a hand. We are looking for another suitable car now to restore but we know for us there will never be another car like our ’68 GTX!”

1968 Plymouth GTX Ed Mohr, Camarillo, California

ENGINE Type: 440-cid, 375 hp at 4,600 rpm, 480 lb-ft torque at 3,200 rpm Bore x stroke: 4.32 (bore) x 3.75 (stroke) Block: Stock 1968 440-cid V-8 iron block Rotating assembly: original forged steel crankshaft, externally balanced, with 2.750” main journals and 2.380-inch rod journals, iron connecting rods, and forged aluminum pistons Compression: 10.1:1 Cylinder heads: stock cylinder heads, cast-iron Camshaft: stock camshaft, intake: .450-inch lift, 268-degrees duration; exhaust: .458-inch lift, 284-degrees duration. 46-degrees overlap Valvetrain: pushrod-operated overhead valves, 16 valves, 16 conventional hydraulic lifters Induction: Single Carter AVS-4637S four-barrel carburetor Oiling system: stock, full pressure, externally driven mechanical oil pump, 5-quart capacity Exhaust: stock dual exhaust, cast iron manifolds, 2.5-inch pipes Ignition: stock, 12-volt, transistorized coil, one spark plug per cylinder Cooling: stock, mechanically driven water pump, copper-brass radiator, 17.0-quart capacity

DRIVETRAIN Transmission: stock TorqueFlite 727 three-speed automatic Gear ratios (overall): First 2.45:1 (7.91:1), Second 1.45:1 (4.68:1), Third 1.0:1 (4.10:1) Converter: stock Shifter: stock slapstick Driveshaft: stock Axles: stock semi-floating axles Rear end: Dana 60 limited-slip differential, four-pinion hypoid; Sure-Grip limited-slip; 4.10:1 gear ratio

CHASSIS Construction: welded steel unit-body Front suspension: independent, unequal length upper and lower control arms with torsion bars, hydraulic tube shock absorbers Rear suspension: Hotchkis type, asymmetrical leaf springs, hydraulic tube shock absorbers Steering: stock recirculating ball with hydraulic power assist and fixed displacement hydraulic power steering pump, 15.7:1 ratio, 3.5 turns lock-to-lock, 40.8-foot turning circle Front brakes: stock, 11.04-inch disc with single-piston caliper Rear brakes: stock, 11.0×2.5 drum

WHEELS & TIRES Wheels: 15×7 (front) and 15×8 (rear) Magnum 500 chrome-plated steel Tires: G60-15 Goodyear Polyglas GT

WEIGHTS & MEASURES Wheelbase: 116 inches Overall length: 202.7 inches Overall width: 76.6 inches Overall height: 53.1 inches Front track: 59.5 inches Rear track: 59.2 inches Shipping weight: 3,520 pounds

The post 1968 Plymouth GTX: Old Friends appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

from Hot Rod Network https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1968-plymouth-gtx-old-friends/ via IFTTT

#IFTTT #Hot Rod Network

0 notes

rayanrooke · 6 years

Text

Ranking the 10 Best Recurve Bows of 2018

In the hands of an experienced archer, the recurve bow is an extremely useful hunting weapon. A modern recurve bow will make you a better shooter and deadly hunter. Even in the hands of a novice archer, the recurve bow is a great tool for target practice and the refinement shooting form and accuracy.

The limbs of a recurve bow curve away from the archer when unstrung, which means a recurve bow stores more energy and delivers energy more efficiently than a straight-limbed bow. This all boils down to a faster, deadlier arrow (1). The market today is saturated with recurve bows, so separating a decent bow from an excellent one can be difficult.

Our list of the Top Ten Recurve Bows will help you simplify your choice and our Buyer’s Guide contains essential information when choosing a recurve bow that’s right for you.

1. Samick Sage Takedown

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

This 62-inch bow is designed for entry to intermediate level archers. It is designed to accommodate a draw length up to 29 inches and a recommended brace height between 7.25 inches and 8.25 inches.

The limbs of this bow are crafted of hard maple with black fiberglass. This bow offers a single tapered knob and metal limb pocket design. In addition, it comes with pre-installed brass bushings for a brass plunger, stabilizer, sight, and quiver. The package also includes a B-50 bowstring and arrow rest.

2. WOARCHERY Combat

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

This bow from WOARCHERY is ideal for archery battle sports games, archery combat games, and LARP battle events. It is manufactured with a strong nylon bow riser and fiberglass laminated bow limbs.

The Combat Archery Takedown is a 54-inch, ambidextrous recurve bow with a 25-pound draw weight. It is certified by both the CE (2) and ASTM (3) and features a maximum draw length of 32 inches. The package includes a silica gel finger saver, which allows for easy finger release without a glove or tab.

3. SAS Snake

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

This 60-inch bow features an ambidextrous design that makes it an easy-to-use option for both right and left-handed shooters. The bow’s “almost indestructible” design makes it a great fit for youth camps, backyard shooters, or anyone looking to have fun and improve their archery skills.

The bow offers a draw weight between 16 and 22 pounds and a brace height of 8.75 inches. It also features a total weight of 26 pounds, although smaller options that weight 22 and 18 pounds, respectively, are available. The package includes 2 string nocks, 2 right-handed stick-on arrow rests, and 2 left-handed stick-on arrow rests.

4. Toparchery 56” Takedown

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

A great bow for right-handed shooters looking for solid performance at a reasonable price, the Takedown Hunting Recurve Bow from Toparchery is a total length of 56 inches and offers a maximum draw length of 30 inches.

This bow is nicely polished and boasts a high-strength casting aluminum riser, as well as strong fiberglass limb made of maple. It also features a draw weight between 33 and 50 inches and the manufacturer recommends using aluminum or carbon arrows with this bow.

5. Martin Archery Jaguar Elite

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

Designed for experienced archers looking to upgrade to a more comfortable, vibration-free recurve bow, the Martin Archery Jaguar offers a lightweight design that’s also sturdy due to the inclusion of aluminum and magnesium. It’s also a great bow for experienced bow fishers.

The limbs are made from wood and laminated with fiberglass, making them more resistant to bending. This bow comes with an adjustable arrow rest and stabilizer, and the hard plastic carrying case includes a Zebco 808 bowfish reel, fish arrow with a fish point, and no-glove string release.

6. Bear Archery Grizzly Bow

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

An excellent bow for both beginner and intermediate archers, this is a great option for both hunting and target practice because it offers superb accuracy and great arrow speeds in a compact and durable design.

The Grizzly bow is weather-resistant and provides exceptional value for your money because it comes 100% ready for shooting right out of the box with no needs for additional accessories. Many previous users called this bow “a work of art.”

7. SinoArt Falcon

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

Made specifically for right-handed shooters, this bow is crafted for the most comfortable user experience possible. The manufacturer has assured this by rounding the edges of the metal riser and limb pockets to provide a sleeker, lightweight bow.

The SinoArt Falcon is a 60-inch bow forged from aluminum-magnesium alloy. It features a riser height of 18-inches, brace height ranging from 6.9 to 7.5 inches, and draw weights ranging from 30 to 70 pounds. The package with this bow includes a rise and bowstring, as well as two bow limbs.

8. Longbowmaker Hungarian-Style Flagella Horsebow

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

With a draw weight ranging from 20 to 110 pounds, this is one of the most versatile bows on the market today. It’s perfect for anyone seeking a reliable, fast, convenient, and carefully designed recurve bow.

This bow offers a maximum safe draw length of 33 inches and bow body length of 145 centimeters. It also features a string length of 131 centimeters and is handmade by one of the largest professional longbow manufacturer’s in China.

9. Martin Archery Hunter

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

Another amazing recurve bow from Martin Archery, the Hunter is a right-handed bow widely celebrated as “perhaps the most successful traditional bow ever made.” Built for exceptional speed, it’s an excellent bow for experienced archery hunters.

This bow offers an AMO string length of 62 inches and a total mass of 2 pounds, 3 ounces. It also features a draw weight ranging from 35 to 65 pounds and a brace weight ranging from 6.75 to 7.75 inches. The limbs are made of eastern hard maple laminations and black fiberglass and limb tips are crafted of Bubinga with black fiberglass overlays.

10. ATROPOS-177 Takedown

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

ATROPOS offers one of the best all-inclusive packages for anyone just getting into archery. The Takedown hunting bow is a 60-inch, right-handed shooter with aluminum riser and unique release mechanism that makes shooting easier and more accurate.

This bow offers a draw weight ranging from 30 to 50 pounds and a brace height between 7.5 and 8 inches. The total bow package includes a riser, two bow limbs, bowstring, sight, arrow rest, string wax, arm guard, finger tab, target paper, Allen key, and 6 carbon arrows.

–

Buyer’s Guide

Now that you’ve read our list of the 10 Best Recurve Bows, you need to know how to narrow down to just one. This Buyer’s Guide will focus on a few characteristics that should always be considered when buying a recurve bow.

Expertise and Physique

Experience and body type are the biggest factors in determining how fast your bow should be. Beginners and smaller individuals should air on the side of lighter, slower bows while larger, more experienced archers will enjoy the benefits of a heavier, faster bow.

New archers can also benefit from a lower draw weight because it makes it easier to practice, build good habits and shooting posture, and avoid unnecessary injury. When we speak of physique, this includes whether you are right or left-handed. Don’t buy a left-handed bow if you’re right hand dominant!

Draw length is also an important consideration. You can find yours based on your wingspan (the distance from the tip of your middle finger to the tip of the opposite middle finger when your arms are stretched wide). Once you have your wingspan measurement, divide that by 2.5 to determine your draw length (4).

Preferred Use

How you plan to use your new bow will also factor into your decision. For example, if your preferred use will be short-distance target shooting, it doesn’t make sense to buy a super-heavy and super-fast bow. This will put unnecessary strain on your muscles and joints while also destroying your target and arrows much more quickly than it should.

If you plan to use a recurve bow primarily for hunting, however, you should make sure to buy a heavier bow. We recommend a bow with more than 50 pounds of draw weight so that arrows fly fast in enough, and with enough force, to be effective when you hit your target.

Arrow Selection

Choosing the right arrows requires consideration of the draw weight and draw length of your desired recurve bow. The main factor that determines whether an arrow travels straight or veers off the desired path is called “spine.”

There are two types of spine you should be aware of, the dynamic spine and the static spine. Static spine is the stiffness of the arrow shaft when the arrow is at rest. Dynamic spine is the actual spine of the arrow when it is in flight. The physical stiffness of the arrow, the length of the arrow, and the weight of the point affect the dynamic spine. There are many useful charts online to help you find the correct arrow length (5).

Frequently Asked Questions

A more informed decision will result in the purchase of a recurve bow that’s truly going to be a good fit. This list of frequently asked questions is designed to teach you a little more about recurve bows and the many aspects of owning and maintaining one.

How do I properly take care of my bowstring?

The first thing to consider is not to twist your string when you brace your bow. You should also be wary of threading in the string. Special string lubricant or even simple beeswax can be used once in a while to care for the string, especially if you do find threading.

How do I extend the life of my bow?

First, make sure never to leave a bow braced when it is not in use. Avoid leaving your bow in the sun for extended periods and, if your bow gets hot, wait until it cools down to brace. Never shoot a bow without a proper, healthy arrow.

Are there any materials I shouldn’t shoot into?

Yes. Arrows should never be shot into hard targets, including wood.

When should I apply wax to my bowstring?

Wax should be applied when you start noticing small fibers sticking out of your bowstring. Many archers call this “fuzzing.”

How do I apply wax to my bowstring?

Using beeswax or the special string lubricant, start by applying to the entire string as well as the serving. Then use a small piece of clean, soft leather to rub the string vigorously in order to heat the wax and burnish the string. The warm wax will penetrate fibers and bond them while the leather removes any excess.

Should I purchase a string silencer?

String silencers reduce vibration and make your bow quieter. There are many types made from different materials, including rubber, wool, and fur. If you’re a bow hunter, a string silencer can go along way towards helping you remain stealthy.

How do I fix crooked limbs?

Fortunately, this is a relatively easy process. First, restring the bow with a stringer tool. Next, move the string out of the groove and push the limb in the direction needed to correct the twist. Then, let the bow sit for 24 hours and the limb will be straightened.

What is fletching?

Fletching is a noun that refers to the feathers of an arrow. Fletching helps to stabilize the arrow shaft and gives and arrow natural spin during flight.

Are bow tip protectors important?

Many archers tend to lean on their bows. This puts added stress on the lower limb tip and can result in significant damage over time. Installing bow tip protectors is an essential addition to protect limb tips from abrasion and moisture. They also help to keep your bowstring firmly attached to the lower limb. These tips are available in leather, plastic, and rubber, and they cost very little, so there’s no excuse not to have them!

Summary

There are 3 types of bows, recurve, crossbow, and compound bow. Modern recurve bows are made of space-age materials and are the tool of choice for archery events at the Olympic Games (6). We hope you’ve found the information in this article useful and that your new recurve bow will be on the way soon. Hope you shoot straight and your arrows find their targets.

Via https://bestsurvival.org/best-recurve-bow/

source http://bestsurvivalus.weebly.com/blog/ranking-the-10-best-recurve-bows-of-2018

0 notes

bestsurvivalus · 6 years

Text

Ranking the 10 Best Recurve Bows of 2018

Our list of the Top Ten Recurve Bows will help you simplify your choice and our Buyer’s Guide contains essential information when choosing a recurve bow that’s right for you.

1. Samick Sage Takedown

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

This 62-inch bow is designed for entry to intermediate level archers. It is designed to accommodate a draw length up to 29 inches and a recommended brace height between 7.25 inches and 8.25 inches.

2. WOARCHERY Combat

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

This bow from WOARCHERY is ideal for archery battle sports games, archery combat games, and LARP battle events. It is manufactured with a strong nylon bow riser and fiberglass laminated bow limbs.

3. SAS Snake

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

4. Toparchery 56” Takedown

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

5. Martin Archery Jaguar Elite

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

6. Bear Archery Grizzly Bow

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

7. SinoArt Falcon

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

8. Longbowmaker Hungarian-Style Flagella Horsebow

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

9. Martin Archery Hunter

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

10. ATROPOS-177 Takedown

Click here for the lowest price on Amazon

–

Buyer’s Guide

Expertise and Physique

Preferred Use

Arrow Selection

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I properly take care of my bowstring?

How do I extend the life of my bow?

Are there any materials I shouldn’t shoot into?

Yes. Arrows should never be shot into hard targets, including wood.

When should I apply wax to my bowstring?

Wax should be applied when you start noticing small fibers sticking out of your bowstring. Many archers call this “fuzzing.”

How do I apply wax to my bowstring?

Should I purchase a string silencer?

How do I fix crooked limbs?

What is fletching?

Fletching is a noun that refers to the feathers of an arrow. Fletching helps to stabilize the arrow shaft and gives and arrow natural spin during flight.

Are bow tip protectors important?

Summary

source https://bestsurvival.org/best-recurve-bow/

0 notes

gbgolf · 7 years

Text

U.S. Kids Tour Series Golf Uskg Right Handed Right Hand TS 35 Complete Set (Pack of 10 Graphite) Complete Set 10 Parts, Graphite Shafts Perfect Club For Kids Perfect Golfschläger for Children/Teenagers PVD Polish

Price: [price_with_discount] For intermediate to advanced golfers, Tour Series offers the technology expected by serious players while maintaining the U.S. Kids Golf fitting philosophy. Designed for players who show intermediate-to-advanced skills, play competitive golf events, and have club head speeds above 54mph. Tour Series is a natural bridge that prepares a player for adult clubs.10-piece…

View On WordPress

#10Graphite #10Parts #35Complete #ChildrenTeenagers #Club #Complete #Golf #Golfschläger #Graphite #Hand #Handed #Kids #Pack #Perfect #Polish #PVD #Series #Set #Shafts #Tour #TS #Uskg

0 notes

shirleyeddington-blog · 7 years

Text

The Joys Of Playing Car Games

I Car Games

The number one toy shop in the UK (Toys Games Gifts;Toys Games Gifts online] are expanding their online range of toys with some fantastic racing car games from Scalextric sets and Meccano Tuning, GXRacers, GXSkate, Nitro petrol cars, RC helicopters, planes and an even more impressive range of Radio Control Cars for kids of all ages. First up is GX Racers stunt car range and GX Skate trick skateboards , based on a new gyroscope and rip chord technology. A number of racing track sets which can be used for both the GX racing stunt cars and GX Skateboards that can perform amazing tricks and flips. The Max Air Jump racing set demonstrates this by launching cars that can reach upto 10ft in the air with a realistic fire streamer fanning out on take off. One of the most spectacular and impressive racing car games to be releasedlaunchedthis year is the GX Racers tightrope set, where you attach the track to any two points in a room - just watch the cars perform an amazing walking stunt across your living room. GXSkate is the new phenomonen in Skate Board stunts and tricks appealing to children of 6 years and older. Take the GX Skate Half Pipe Set that can perform all the amazing GX Skate stunts and tricks. Ride the half pipe, grind on rails and run along the tight rope. It can also be connected to your Stairs & Rail Grind and used in conjunction with the 360 Sidewinder Set. Another addition to (the toysgamesgifts online shop;our toy range] is the high performance nitro cars,radio controlled planes, RC boats and helicopters. Aimed at teenagers and older, there's some great fun to be had with the either the nitro petrol driven cars and buggies or the electric version. Start off with the entry level and intermediate electric cars with the scale 1:24 Buggy or the scale 1:10 electric truck. What makes these RC cars different to traditional cars is the shaft driven four wheel drive and independant suspension on each wheel, real working differentials and advanced digital proportional Steering and Acceleration - all make for amazing performance. For the speed freaks amongst us try the nitro petrol range off road Buggy a strong performing model that look visually stunning with enhanced blue machined aluminium parts and polished aluminium exhaust - a truly awesome looking and performing buggy. For the younger audience there's always the ever more popular Meccano tuning range that with futuristic ultra designed parts and an easy and fast construction system. Build two cool remote control cars from one set and connect an MP3 player and listen to music through the high quality on board loud speaker. Meccano Radio Control Cars] also have realistic sound effects, screeching tyres when it goes round corners and a 'Vroom' roaring engine when you accelerate. Using optic fibres the Meccano Tuning RC Car has fully working flashing headlights and rearlights and even a neon lighting under the chassis. Use the full function RC controller to turn left, right, forward and backward and decorate your racer with the some cool stickers to make a stunning looking Radio Controlled car. All these amazing toys can be purchased from ToysGamesGifts online shop. (Delivery available to europe and world wide countries.

I Car Games

The first rule undertaking things while driving could be safe although your eyes on the road. Obviously if you are taking public transportation or a part of a carpool, you execute a additional in regards to involvement, but always make use of best judgment when it depends on multi-tasking while on a trip. Not only can keeping the brain busy make the time vehicle productive, it'll pass time quickly and simply. Your commute doesn't have for that father time you dread on a regular basis and just grind your teeth prior to you get to where just be. Is there a favorite stuffed animal or item that the child really is in love with? Make sure is definitely packed on the trip. Interesting stuffed animal is one who can become a comfort girl doll. Trips can be stressful and long. Some thing that brings comfort several child extremely useful. If you have a favorite stuffed animal that the baby sleeps collectively night the objective be essentially the most important one to bring. Since each and every have a DVD player in our car To begin with . to buy audio courses. There are many books that are available that young kids love. I began with the classics, and purchased Edgar Allan Poe's Definitive Range of audio content pieces. Free flash games are good entertainment for children of every age. Though adults are reluctant to confess it, truthfully these games are equally or more common with adults too. Internet is attracting more and more, free 3d car games turn out to be enjoyed by all. These games have transformed madness of free games. There are many racing games which achievable install on computer. A that, really are millions a array of car games which could be played e-commerce. If you perform a web site search for car profiles you will receive a large selection make your choice from. It is common to receive hundreds of results if you want you is able to see if you wish to play and you will also have plenty to choose from. Be in order to split up for sometime. A hardly any people might wish to purchase antiques, a pair may to help golf, and a couple may wish for to go out at the pool. At the end belonging to the day you need to a bunch of happy close relatives ready reveal different funny stories and play a group game or do a hefty group pursuit. Catch via your cell phone calls. Most people have cell phone plans with over enough minutes. While being safe on the road (for example: using hands-free devices by no means being over emotional within your conversations), you will return those individuals calls you meant to but did not have time at the workplace or inside the home. It can be hard to get afflicted with time for the people long-distance family and friends with your regular schedule, but everyone has time stuck in traffic.

I Car Games

0 notes

raunchyrod · 8 years

Link

Penis Wand With Double Bobble at End Penis wands are one of the most popular of the urethral toys on the market. They are great to wear around as the glans ring helps them stay in place. This little fella has got a double bobble on the shaft so you are going to get a little more urethral stimulation that a polished smooth shaft. It is a great plug to start with or for an intermediate cock plug user. Four sizing options for the glans ring to make sure the plug stay secure whilst using. Another fine Hell's Couture surgical steel sex toy. Widest Bobble 6mm Glans Ring 25mm 28mm 30mm 32mm This product is certified 100% Non-Magnate and medical-grade steel. Beware of cheaper products that are not solid surgical steel but chromed steel or poor quality surgical steel that contains Magnate. Magnate is the ingredient that makes steel rust. We will only include this endorsement on our 100% surgical steel products. Hell’s Couture is a leading brand of bondage and fetish gear with a comprehensive range of penis plugs, urethral sounds, leather restraints, crops and punishment devices. Respected throughout the world for the quality and price. Get your kinky on by yourself of with your partner with the amazing products that often will astound you!! So get your FetLife happening now with this ultimate selection BDSM online.

0 notes

itsworn · 7 years

Text

Dress Up Your Small-Block With A Billet Front Drive System

Dress-up accessories for the small-block Chevy are plentiful. In fact, the numerous choices can lead to some mismatched combinations of finishes, textures, and styles. That’s why we prefer to do our engine accessorizing with complete kits. The small-block Chevy in question for this tech piece just received a rebuild and is resting under the hood of Matt Hickman’s ’71 Chevrolet C10. Matt upgraded the appearance of the engine with some modern accessories but wanted to add air conditioning and give his engine bay a little more wow factor. His choice was an All American Billet Silverline Supreme Serpentine kit.

The All American Billet kit offers every component needed to install the system, including 6061-T6 aluminum brackets and pulleys, Tuff Stuff Performance accessories, and stainless steel hardware. The kit also includes a remote power steering reservoir and the necessary brackets to mount it. The kits are available in several finish options. Matt went with polished aluminum—a timeless look. The only items that Matt needed to outsource were the high-pressure hoses for the power steering system. All American Billet recently began offering an upgrade to braided stainless steel hoses for GM and Ford power steering systems.

The All American Billet serpentine kit is easy to install with basic handtools. A weekend in the shop could take your engine from bland to spectacular. The straightforward instructions helped us figure out how the pieces of the puzzle went together. It’s important to note that the design of the pulley system does not accommodate a stock-style mechanical fan so Matt took the opportunity to upgrade his cooling system with an aluminum radiator and dual electric fan setup. Now that the kit is installed and the truck is back on the road, Matt can open his hood with pride at the local cruise night and trust that his accessory drive system is ready for years of service. CHP

1. Our starting point is a potent small-block, sporting an Edelbrock top end and powdercoated Chevrolet valve covers. The front drive system is adequate, but it features a stock power steering pump, a pair of standard V-belt drives, and no air conditioning.

2. The engine already had some good parts on it, including a new aluminum water pump and a chrome one-wire alternator with chrome bracket. These components will be great swap meet material after we switch to the All American Billet Silverline Supreme Serpentine front drive system.

3. We found it easiest to remove the radiator, shroud, and fan before disassembling the front of the engine. From there, we removed the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, and crankshaft pulley.

4. Since our engine is fresh, we didn’t see the need to do a lot of touch-up work on the paint. Most of the painted surfaces will be hidden, so we simply did a quick cleanup with some spray detailer before installing the All American Billet crank pulley with the supplied bolts and the original harmonic balancer bolt.

5. The All American Billet Silverline Supreme Serpentine kit comes in a variety of finishes, we opted for polished aluminum. This kit comes with a polished aluminum water pump from Tuff Stuff, and we used standard water pump bolts to loosely install it.

6. With the temporary bolts in the top holes, we use the supplied bolts to pass through the drive system bracket and through the long spacers into the bottom water pump bolt holes. These are also loosely installed to hold the bracket in place.

7. The alternator will mount to the driver-side of the engine, and it uses this oval bracket for proper spacing. The bracket attaches to the engine via the top water pump bolt. You will use the shortest spacer in the kit to take up the slack between the main accessory bracket and this alternator bracket.

8. Next is the passenger side, which mounts the compressor for the air-conditioning system. The fourth and final long bolt is installed through the intermediate length spacer, and then into a Z-shaped bracket for the A/C compressor.

9. A button head bolt holds the A/C compressor to the Z-bracket. Space is tight with the heater hose installed, so for most cases, it’s best to wait until the accessory drive is fully installed before attaching the heater hose.

10. Out front, the polished Tuff Stuff Performance peanut-style A/C compressor is held in place with two supplied bolts.

11. Now we can bolt the polished 140-amp one-wire alternator into place. This is another Tuff Stuff component, polished to perfection, with a six-groove serpentine pulley and stylish billet aluminum fan already installed.

12. Below the alternator goes the power steering pump, another polished item from Tuff Stuff. The All American Billet kit utilizes a compact Type II power steering pump, which requires a remote reservoir.

13. Two supplied button head bolts hold the aluminum Type II power steering pump in place

14. Next is the belt tensioner, which is a genuine General Motors component. It attaches to the main pulley system bracket with a single bolt.

15. The All American Billet serpentine kit features beautiful polished aluminum pulleys that bolt into place easily using the supplied hardware. The pump turns freely so we were not able to get the four pulley bolts very tight at this stage of the install.

16. The A/C compressor has a black pulley built in, but the All American Billet kit comes with a decorative pulley cover that matches the contemporary design. It attaches to the compressor pulley with three supplied bolts.

17. Four supplied bolts hold the water pump pulley in place. All American Billet serpentine kits are complete, but keep in mind that the kit features a 1985-’91 Corvette-style “SuperCool” water pump, which features a 3/4-inch pilot shaft.

18. Now for the moment of truth, as we snake the supplied six-rib Gates belt around the pulleys and insert a 1/2-inch breaker bar into the square slot on the tensioner. The belt snapped into place perfectly, giving us a tight fit.

19. With tension on the belt, we can now finish tightening the stainless steel bolts that hold the water pump and power steering pump pulleys in place. Now would also be a great time to double-check all of your fasteners to make sure they’re tight.

20. The All American Billet serpentine kit features a Type II power steering pump with an external reservoir. Included in the kit is this cool, ribbed billet aluminum reservoir, complete with mounting brackets, set screws, and an O-ring spin-on lid. We chose to mount it to the radiator support.

21. We had a local NAPA store make up the hydraulic hoses using our measurements and fitting sizes. Although it would cost a few more bucks and require custom fitment for your application, All American Billet offers a braided stainless steel line kit as an option.

22. With the kit fully installed, it’s easy to see why we went with the All American Billet Silverline Supreme Serpentine kit. It gave our simple small-block a big facelift thanks to beautifully polished 6061-T6 aluminum components. The best part? It’s made in the USA!

23. The completed serpentine kit is compact and stylish, and the Tuff Stuff Performance accessories are ready for many years of service. This All American Billet serpentine drive system brightened up our engine bay, and it works as good as it looks.

Sources

All American Billet

844.580.7214

allamericanbillet.com

Chevrolet Performance

chevrolet.com/performance

Edelbrock

310.320.1187

edelbrock.com

Tuff Stuff Performance Accessories

800.331.6562

tuffstuffperformance.com

The post Dress Up Your Small-Block With A Billet Front Drive System appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

from Hot Rod Network http://www.hotrod.com/articles/dress-small-block-billet-front-drive-system/ via IFTTT

#IFTTT #Hot Rod Network

0 notes

itsworn · 7 years

Text

Build A Vintage 392 Hemi On The Cheap & Get 436 HP!

It’s hard to imagine nearly 70 years have passed since Chrysler first introduced the wonders of the highly efficient hemispherical combustion chamber to American motorists—and hot rodders. Back in 1951 when those first 331 Fire Power equipped Saratogas, New Yorkers, and Imperials introduced owners to the thrill of stop-light dominance, the concept of smoking the rear tires away from an intersection wasn’t yet “a thing.”

Sure, kids in their hot rods awoke slumbering suburbanites in the wee hours as their chopped-down, flathead-powered Deuce roadsters spun rubber after midnight, but it was the 331 Hemi that brought the gobs of torque necessary to boil the rear tires at will from a dead stop in a bone-stock, full-sized Chrysler passenger car. While part of the recipe for rubber incineration was Chrysler’s 1951 replacement of the slippery Fluid Drive coupling with a four-element torque converter, the 180-horsepower, 312 lb-ft 331ci Fire Power Hemi was at the core of the revolution.

So here we are now, some 66 years after Chrysler’s hemispherical makeover and once again, Hemi-powered drones scream down the boulevard (to borrow from Bruce Springsteen’s iconic hit song Born to Run). Amazing but true, since 2003, Hemi power has elevated Chrysler from the doldrums as the maker of front-drive-only transportation modules and the cab-forward LH era to creators of the world’s first muscle car capable of cranking a 9.60 and pulling a wheelie! Yep, we’re talking about the 2018 Dodge Challenger SRT Demon.

These are good times indeed but let’s not lose sight of the fact it wouldn’t be happening if not for the exploits of the first-generation Hemis of 1951 – 1958. While the modern 5.7L, 6.1L, 6.2 Hellcat/Demon, and 6.4L Gen III and classic Gen II 426 Street and Race Hemis get all the glory today, we can’t forget the one that started it all: the mighty Chrysler Fire Power. Bolstered by the similar (but not identical) 1952 DeSoto Fire Dome and 1953 Dodge Red Ram, hemispheres have struck fear into the competition ever since. In this story we’ll explore the construction of a 1957-vintage 392 Hemi and test it with intake and exhaust goodies to see how they compliment the inherent ability of Chrysler’s legendary “whale motor” to deliver the happy combination of prodigious low-end torque and upper-rpm horsepower.

We tagged along as Donnie Wood and his crew at R.A.D. Auto Machine refurbished a 392 Fire Power with mild street and strip cruising in mind. Traditional dual-quad induction was compared to a modern high-rise single quad from Hot Heads, and the stock cast-iron log-type exhaust manifolds were compared to Hot Heads’ tube steel block huggers.

The results are impressive and prove that Hemis—vintage and new alike—offer unsurpassed breathing potential and eyeball appeal like no other V8 engine ever made!

After a 0.040 overbore, align honing, and deck squaring, the block is ready for assembly. Unlike the Gen II and Gen III Hemi blocks, the Gen I lacks the deep skirt oil pan rail that makes cross-bolted main caps possible. It’s still plenty stout for 600 horsepower and then some.

After reducing the main and rod journals by 0.010 to reverse wear, R.A.D. sets the factory stock forged steel crank in place. At 68 pounds, the 392 crank is one pound lighter than a Gen II 426 Street Hemi forging (69 pounds) and 12.4 pounds heavier than a forged steel 340 small-block crank (55.6 pounds). All Gen I Hemi cranks feature non-threaded eight-bolt output flanges. Remember this when attaching flywheels and flex plates.

Though girdles and upgraded forged steel main caps are available for the early Hemi, this mild-mannered street/strip mill gets by safely with the stock cast-iron main caps. The 392 main journal diameters measure 2.6875 inches. (The 331ci and 354ci sizes are 2.500 inches.) Cranks and blocks for 392s are a breed apart. The cap fasteners go to 90 ft-lb.

KB Silv-O-Lite hypereutectic pistons deliver a pump-gas-friendly 9.5:1 compression ratio. The mild compression ratio negates the need for heavy high-dome pistons to fill the Hemi’s 103cc chambers.

Though the stock 6.950-inch rods are retained, the beams were polished to remove forging marks and potential stress risers. The floating piston pins are retained by spiral locks.

High-quality ARP rod bolts are tightened to 52 ft-lb. In this naturally aspirated 6,500rpm application, the refurbished stock bottom end is perfectly adequate, though up-sized forged and billet items are readily available.

The Gen I Hemi oil pump may resemble the LA unit (273, 318, 340, and 360) but has different mounting bolt locations and is not interchangeable. Though Milodon, Hot Heads, and others offer race-capable pumps, a basic new NOS item was obtained for this boulevard bruiser. The stock pickup tube and screen match the stock passenger car sourced center-sump oil pan.

Early Hemi cams are currently available from mild to wild, but you need rare factory or costly aftermarket adjustable rocker arms to run solid lifters. Since our Hemi has the common one-piece (non-adjustable) rocker arms, we went for a hydraulic, flat-tappet cam. It’s an Isky Mega 280 with 0.485-inch lift.

R.A.D. found this vintage two-piece FGT front cover and housing to shield the Cloyes True Roller timing set (part No. 9-1103). The removable cover is set up for a Hilborn-type cam-driven fuel pump and is probably from a marine application. Here, it adds eyeball appeal and function.

Numerous sources exist for hydraulic (and solid) lifters. Ours are from Isky. A liberal coat of assembly lube and Joe Gibbs Racing anti-scuff moly lube are applied during installation.

Best composite head gaskets (part No. 585) are part of the recipe that yields a 9.5:1 compression ratio. Once squeezed, they’re 0.040 inch thick. The open-tappet chamber will be sealed by the stock stamped tin valley cover after it gets a thorough clean out. Oil fill and crankcase ventilation are handled by an opening in the cover.

Though 392 heads are excellent, the 331 head is known to have a slightly better port floor contour. Thus, a set of 1955-vintage 331 Hemi heads (casting number 1556157-1) have been selected. The 2.00-/1.750-inch valve’s head diameters remain stock. The 103cc combustion chambers remain stock though the ports have been polished, and bowl relief work was performed.

For kicks, we compared the 331 head (top) to a 1964-vintage 426 Race Hemi head. The major differences are (331 vs 426): 64.4 vs. 58.2 lbs bare weight, 103cc vs. 172cc chamber volume, 2.00-/1.75-inch vs. 2.25-/1.94-inch valves, and 4.5625-inch vs. 4.800-inch bore spacing. The included valve angle is the same at 58 degrees.

Like Gen II and Gen III Hemis, the Gen I heads are interchangeable side-to-side, but must have caps placed over unused water passage outlets at the fire wall end. Note the shiny surfaces of the ported and polished intake ports. The exhaust ports are just as nice. We didn’t flow test the heads but suspect the effort improved flow by about 10 percent.

To keep pace with the Isky cam and assure 6,500rpm stability, Hot Heads dual valve springs (part No. 40062) are used with stock retainers and locks. Spring force is 135 pounds closed and 325 pounds at 0.500-inch lift with a 1.700-inch installed height.

It may not be as simple as a small-block Chevy’s stud mounted, ball-pivot, stamped steel rocker arm setup, but the Hemi’s trademark double rocker shaft architecture is the only way to connect the wildly divergent valve tip angles to the camshaft. The rocker shaft stand fasteners do double duty as head bolts and tighten to 85 lb-ft in two steps.

Though stock one-piece pushrods are acceptable at this level of performance, to enable fine tuning of lifter pre-load with the hydraulic camshaft Hot Heads 3/8-inch diameter chrome moly adjustable push rods (part No. 21086) are used. Proper setting is a half turn beyond zero plunger lash. Adjustable rocker arms were installed in 1955-’58 Chrysler 300 “letter cars” but cost over $2,000 when found today. Aftermarket rockers are no less expensive.

R.A.D. gets set to install the vintage M/T finned aluminum rocker covers. When the Whale motor ruled the world, these beauties were the ultimate Hemi fashion statement on everything from small town hot rods to Don Garlits’ Swamp Rat rail dragster.

Though similar in appearance to Gen II 426 Hemis, Gen I Chrysler Hemi spark plug tubes (6.100 inches long) are 0.250 shorter and are formed for different top seals. Most aftermarket wires sets (aside from length concerns) are interchangeable. Autolite #65 spark plugs are used. The 2003-up Gen III Hemi eliminated the separate spark plug tubes for integrally-cast tunnels.

When Chrysler grew the 1951-’56 331ci and 354ci into the 1957-’58 392ci, the deck height was increased from 10.32 to 10.865 inches. Further complicating things, our shorter 331 heads render the stock thermostat housing (foreground) too short. Hot Heads solved the problem with this adjustable braided hose kit (part No. 21404). Note the stock oil fill neck, mandatory with our non-vented M/T rocker covers.

The Weiand dual-plane 8-bbl intake manifold (part No. 7263) has been a go-to street and strip unit for decades and is still available. How will it stack up against Hot Heads’ high-rise, dual-plane offering (part No. 50000)?

Because our Frankenstein block and head combo yields a non-stock span between intake flanges, Weiand adapter flanges (part No. 8203) are needed for both manifolds.

The early Hemi’s close relationship to the Mopar 273 – 360 small-block family allows sharing of distributors with only minor tweaking. A box-stock Pertronix Flame-Thrower billet unit (part No. D141700) needs only a special Hot Heads intermediate drive shaft/gear assembly and alignment collar (in hand) to complete the ignition. Timing is set at 32 degrees BTDC, all in by 3,000 rpm. All factory distributors employed dual points, even the base two-barrel job!

Our tests will pit the stock center-dump exhaust manifolds (in hand) against Hot Heads’ steel tube block-huggers with 1 7/8-inch primary tubes. Hot Heads also offers a clone of the large-diameter Chrysler 300 iron manifold (part No. 60018) as well as a selection of full-length tuned headers for the Gen I Hemi.

With a box-stock Quick Fuel 750cfm double-pumper atop the Hot Heads high-rise and cast-iron exhaust manifolds, the Fire Power made 408 hp at 5,500 rpm and 463.6 lb-ft at 3,300 rpm. Considering the mild cam, single-digit compression ratio, and restrictive exhaust tract, it’s a strong showing. Now let’s swap to headers…

Not surprisingly, the reduction in exhaust back pressure cranked things up to 431 horsepower at 5,500 rpm and 489.2 lb-ft at 3,700 rpm. Those are gains of 23 hp and 25.6-lb-ft. But what happens when we swap the modern single-quad with an old-school dual-quad setup?

With two box-stock 500cfm Edelbrock Performers (part No. 1405) on the vintage Weiand casting, eye appeal goes through the roof. Contact between the carb’s linkage plates and manifold fasteners forced some trimming. Inch-tall carb spacers would also work but we wanted to keep it simple. The Hot Heads headers remained in place.

Bigger carbs should equal bigger power numbers, right? Not always. With 436.5 horsepower at 5,700 rpm, a mere 6.5 hp was added over the single quad. What’s more shocking is the impact on torque, which fell ten percent (48.8 lb-ft) from 489.2 to 440.4 lb-ft at 4,400 rpm. Bob Walker’s design team really did their homework when they developed the Hot Heads high-rise single-quad dual-plane unit!

Fast Facts

1957 Chrysler Fire Power Hemi Bore: 4.040-inch Stroke: 3.900-inch Displacement 398 cubic inches Compression ratio: 9.5:1 Camshaft: Isky 280 Mega hydraulic, flat-tappet Valve lift: 0.485-/0.485-inch Duration: 232/232 degrees at 0.050-inch lift Lobe separation angle: 108 degrees Rocker arms: stock steel, shaft-mounted, non-adjustable type Lifters: Hot Heads 0.904-inch hydraulic flat-tappet Pushrods: Hot Heads 5/16-inch diameter adjustable tip Piston rings: Speed Pro 24122, gapped at 0.018, 0.020 (top and second) Piston: KB Silv-O-Lite hypereutectic cast aluminum, 0.040-inch oversize (part No. 24536-040) Block: stock iron, bored 0.040-inch over to 4.040, block ID stamping CE5713234 Crankshaft: stock forging, with main and rod journals cut 0.010 inch Rods: stock forged, 6.950-inch with polished beams and ARP fasteners Main journal diameter: 2.6775 inch (0.010 under) Rod journal diameter: 2.3640 inch (0.010 under) Bearings: Federal Mogul (0.010 under) Cylinder head: 1955-vintage iron castings from 331ci Hemi, ported and polished, casting number 1556157-1 Chamber volume: 103cc Intake valve diameter: 2.00-inch (stock) Exhaust valve diameter: 1.750-inch (stock) Valve springs: Hot Heads double, 1.550-inch installed height, 135 lbs closed seat, 325 lbs at 0.500 lift Spring retainers: stock pressed steel Head gasket: Best composite, PN 585, 0.040 crushed thickness Intake manifold: Weiand (part No. 50010) 2×4 versus Hot Heads (par No. 50020) Hi-Rise single four-barrel Carburetor: dual 500 cfm Edelbrock Performers versus Quick Fuel 750cfm Double-pumper Header: stock center-outlet cast-iron manifolds versus Hot Heads block-hugger headers (part No. 60010) Ignition: Pertronix Flame Thrower billet aluminum (part No. D141700) Damper: Power Bond, indexed (part No. PB1115ST) Water pump: Moroso electric dyno pump Oil pan: stock center-sump passenger car, 5 quarts Oil pump: NOS with stock pickup and screen Fuel: Sunoco 92-octane unleaded Timing advance: 32 degrees

The post Build A Vintage 392 Hemi On The Cheap & Get 436 HP! appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

from Hot Rod Network http://www.hotrod.com/articles/build-vintage-392-hemi-cheap-get-436-hp/ via IFTTT

#IFTTT #Hot Rod Network

0 notes

itsworn · 7 years

Text

496ci Big-Block Makes 1,144 hp on 11.2 psi of Boost!

Big-block builds come in many shapes and sizes, or more accurately displacements, but this build offers something special. While a 496 is a common displacement, this combination was designed with more than just additional cubic inches in mind. Dedicated buildups often focus on maximizing for a single purpose. By this, we mean that naturally aspirated engines are built slightly different than ones built for nitrous and different yet for blower combinations. The three distinct combos often differ in things like cylinder head configurations, cam timing, and compression ratio. The cylinder head and cam needs of a nitrous engine differ from those of its naturally aspirated or supercharged brethren. Blower engines typically receive a drop in static compression, which works well under boost, but definitely gives up some off-boost power. Rather than choose a specific path, we decided to build a combination that worked well in all three configurations, essentially capable of supplying multipurpose power.

Were we going racing we might choose a dedicated path, but for street and even street/strip engines owners often change their mind about what they want. After running a naturally aspirated engine, enthusiasts start to want more. Adding more power to any combination is as easy as placing a call to the guys at NOS. No matter what engine you add it to, nitrous oxide makes a huge improvement. Any time you increase the power output by 100, 150, or even 200 (or more) horsepower you’re going to like it. The problem becomes, just like with a naturally aspirated engine, the extra power provided by the nitrous just won’t be enough after a time. Luckily, nitrous kits are adjustable so more power is easily attainable. But what if you want even more power? That’s when boost comes into play. Adding a supercharger, like a ProCharger, to your combo can yield more power, and like the nitrous is easily adjustable for even greater gains. Of course, this all assumes your engine is capable of withstanding the extra power and that the naturally aspirated combination responds well to both the nitrous and supercharger. Big assumptions.

To ensure our build responded well to both nitrous and boost we made sure the engine met two critical conditions: increased internal strength and plenty of power. Upping strength of the internal components was a no-brainer since the crank, rods, and pistons must be up to the task of withstanding the extra power production offered by nitrous or boost. This obviously necessitated forged internals. To maximize power production we assembled a combination capable of producing plenty of power even before hitting it with the NOS Cheater nitrous system or the ProCharger supercharger. The more power the engine makes in naturally aspirated trim, the more power it will make with power-adders.

The internal strength came easy as we combined a 4.25-inch, 4340 forged-steel stoker crank from Scat with a set of Bullet-series Carrillo rods and 4.31-inch, forged CP pistons. The 24cc-dome pistons produced a static compression ratio of 10.5:1, and featured 2618 alloy construction, dual-forced pin oilers, and chromoly wristpins with wire locks. The compression was high enough to help make power, but still low enough to run boost. The Bullet rods were equally stout, being manufactured from 4330 modified forgings with WMC H-11 tool steel fasteners and the set balanced to within 1.0 gram of each other.

With strength taken care of, we set our sights on power production. To help the beefy bottom end pull hard on the top end we enlisted power producers from Comp Cams, ProMaxx, and Edelbrock. With a blower in mind, we chose a suitable blower cam knowing full well it worked on both naturally aspirated and nitrous combos. The 300BR-14 featured 0.652/0.652-inch lift, a 255/262-degree duration split, and 114-degree LSA. The cam was combined with a new set of solid roller lifters, hardened pushrods, and Crane 1.73:1 (BBF) roller rockers. To provide adequate flow for the solid roller cam we installed a set of ProMaxx aluminum heads. These heads featured 340cc intake ports, a 2.30/1.88 stainless (back-cut and swirl polished) valve combo, and 122cc combustion chambers. Thanks to full CNC porting, the intake ports checked in with 412 cfm at 0.900 lift (according to their own flow testing). Having previously exceeded 800 hp with these heads on a wilder 572 stroker, we knew they were more than adequate for our “little” 496. The final of our three major power producers was the single-plane Super Victor intake from Edelbrock. To ensure our stroker had plenty of air and fuel the intake was combined with a Holley 1050 Ultra Dominator carburetor.

While we had the major components taken care of, we added the equally important subsystems to the stroker to make it run, including a billet distributor from MSD, an SFI-approved damper and fabricated valve covers from Speedmaster, and a rock-solid oiling system. The ProMaxx aluminum heads were secured using a set of ARP head bolts and MLS head gaskets from Fel-Pro. We made sure to have the surface finish on the block and heads correct for use with the MLS gaskets.

After a few break-in cycles using Lucas break-in oil we started tuning the big-block combo. Dialing in the Holley carb took all of one jet change, it was nearly perfect right out of the box. After running timing sweeps up to 40 degrees (it ran best at 37 degrees), the big-block pumped out 677 hp at 6,400 rpm and 591 lb-ft of torque at 5,300 rpm. We were plenty happy with the power output, especially since we didn’t go whole hog on a wild cam profile or jack up the static compression. The big-block stroker was plenty stout in naturally aspirated form but things were about to get even more impressive.

The first of our power-adders was an NOS Cheater nitrous system. The carbureted plate system featured a nitrous plate to deliver the nitrous and fuel, a pair of solenoids to deliver said components to the plate, and adjustable jetting to determine just how much to supply. The kit also featured a 10-pound bottle, arming and activation switches, and all the necessary mounting hardware and lines. We removed the carburetor and quickly installed the nitrous kit. After installation of the jetting to provide an additional 150 hp, we filled and heated the bottle (the bottle is shipped empty) then hooked up the requisite fuel lines. With everything ready, we ran the big-block once again and were rewarded with 859 hp and 769 lb-ft of torque. With careful tuning, the 150hp shot improved the power output by 182 hp. We made sure to dial the total timing back per the instructions, but went just 4 degrees instead of the recommended 6. Adding a splash of 100-octane race fuel to the 91-octane unleaded gave us the extra margin of safety.

It was then time to subject the big-block to some boost. In this case, boost came from a ProCharger F-1A-94 supercharger. According to ProCharger, the ultra-efficient centrifugal supercharger was capable of supporting 1,200 hp, but having already exceeded 1,260 hp with the unit on a 427 LSX, we think their ratings were a tad conservative. Regardless, it was more supercharger than we would need for our big-block. In addition to the F-1A-94, ProCharger also supplied an air-to-water intercooler. Though we ran just over 11 psi on the 496, an intercooler is always good idea, especially after we ditched the carburetor in favor of fuel injection. The carb acts as an intercooler, but since we adopted port fuel injection, the benefits of fuel cooling were all but lost. The kit was installed with the supplied crank and 4.5-inch blower pulley, the largest blower pulley of the five they supplied (meaning the lowest boost level). After installation of the converted Edelbrock 454-R intake, Holley EFI management system, and Wilson elbow (with 105mm throttle body), the supercharged 496 pumped out 1,144 hp at 6,500 rpm and 925 lb-ft of torque (also at 6,500 rpm). That we just reached the torque peak and the horsepower was still climbing by over 20 hp per 100 rpm it was a clear indication that there was plenty more power to be had from our multipurpose big-block.

1. The Gen V four-bolt block was machined to accept a Scat 4.25-inch forged stroker crank.

2. The Scat crank was teamed with a set of Bullet-series Carrillo rods and matching forged CP pistons.

3. The forged crank, rods, and pistons combined with the four-bolt factory block to produce a solid short-block capable of withstanding your choice of power-adder.

4. Rather than go ultra-low or ultra-high compression, we chose small-dome pistons with generous valve reliefs from the CP catalog. The added compression (over a typical blower combo) offered extra power when off boost and worked equally well with the nitrous.

5. Because we knew it worked so well on past blower builds (NA and nitrous, too), we installed a 300BR-14 blower cam from Comp Cams. The solid roller grind offered 0.652/0.652-inch lift, a 255/262-degree duration split (at .050), and 114-degree LSA. Comp also supplied the necessary roller lifters.

6. To dial in the cam timing, we installed an adjustable double-roller timing chain. Note the nylon cam button necessary to limit thrust movement with the roller cam.

7. The bottom end was completed with a high-volume oil pump, HD intermediate shaft, and a pickup from Milodon that would match up with the pan we chose. The pump was secured with an ARP oil-pump stud.

8. With a healthy cam and extra displacement, the stroker needed a good set of heads. We actually went a little overkill with these CNC-ported, 340cc heads from ProMaxx. We used them previously on a 572 that exceeded 800 hp, so we knew the 400-cfm intake ports would easily support our 496.

9. The 121cc combustion chambers worked with our small-dome pistons to produce a static compression ratio of 10.5:1. The aluminum heads also featured a 2.30/1.88 stainless-steel valve package.

10. To ensure adequate sealing with our power-adders we enlisted the aid of Fel-Pro gaskets. These MLS head gaskets are plenty stout. Just make sure the head and block deck surfaces are finished properly for them.

11. The ProMaxx heads came equipped with a triple spring package designed to support roller cams up to 0.900-inch lift. Actuating the valves was a set of 1.73:1 (BBF) Crane Gold roller rockers.

12. Edelbrock stepped up with this single-plane Super Victor intake designed for use with a 4500-series carburetor.

13. The Edelbrock Super Victor was topped with a Holley 1050 Ultra Dominator. The three-circuit carb allowed us to properly dial in the air/fuel mixture of the carbureted big-block.

14. After adding a Speedmaster neutral damper and fabricated valve covers, we treated the new engine to a pair of break-in cycles. Once dialed in, we were rewarded with peak numbers of 677 hp at 6,400 rpm and 591 lb-ft of torque at 5,300 rpm.

15. The NOS Cheater nitrous system included everything we needed to increase the power output of our big-block by as much as 250 horsepower.

16. Off came the Holley Dominator to make room for longer studs to facilitate installation of the nitrous plate on the Edelbrock intake.

17. The dual spray bars allowed injection of both nitrous and fuel into the engine.

18. The nitrous and fuel were supplied by solenoids. The amount of fuel and nitrous supplied by the solenoids was determined by jet sizing. We installed jetting to provide an additional 150 hp.

19. We made sure to maximize the nitrous flow by properly heating the bottle prior to injection. The optimum temperature of 92 degrees produced a bottle pressure of over 900 psi.

20. Running the dual-purpose 496 with the first of our two power-adders the nitrous-injected stroker produced 859 hp at 6,300 rpm and 769 lb-ft of torque at 5,700 rpm. The NOS kit added some serious power to our big-block.

21. After the success with the NOS kit, off came the carbureted induction system to make room for fuel injection. Using an Edelbrock 454-R intake converted for EFI use, we added this Wilson billet elbow and 105mm throttle body.

22. Feeding boost to our big-block was an F-1A-94 centrifugal supercharger from ProCharger. The ultra-efficient supercharger was capable of easily supporting over 1,200 hp on the right application.

23. To allow us to dial in the boost on the big-block, ProCharger supplied a variety of different blower pulley sizes to work with their supplied 10-rib crank pulley.

24. Our testing was run with the largest (4.50-inch) of the supplied blower pulleys, meaning there was plenty of boost left in reserve.

25. To keep things cool, ProCharger supplied this air-to-water intercooler. Even at just 11 psi (with dyno water), the intercooler dropped the charge temps by over 80 degrees.

26. Run with the ProCharger F-1A-94 pumping out a maximum of 11.2 psi, the supercharged big-block produced 1,144 hp at 6,500 rpm and the numbers hadn’t even peaked yet! Imagine ripping down the street with that much power under the hood.

27. The first thing you might notice on the graph is the huge gain in power offered by the NOS nitrous kit, but you might do well to take a step back and look at the power output of the 496 before we hit the button. Run sans nitrous, the all-motor 496 produced 677 hp and 591 lb-ft of torque. Who wouldn’t love to have that much power in their Chevy? Thanks to the use of forged Carrillo rods and CP pistons, the plenty-powerful 496 was more than ready for a healthy shot of go juice. After installation of the NOS Cheater system, the peak numbers jumped to 859 hp and 769 lb-ft of torque. There was another 100 hp or so left in the Cheater kit but we think you’ll have no trouble getting your point across with an 850hp, nitrous-injected big-block.

28. To further illustrate the strength of the forged internals and overall balance of our big-block build we subjected the beast to some boost! Our big-block build included two critical elements: internal strength and plenty of power production in naturally aspirated trim. The more power the engine makes on its own the more power it will make under boost. Case in point, we produced 1,144 hp after adding the F-1A-94 ProCharger kit at just 11.2 psi. With each psi of boost worth roughly 47 hp on our big-block, there was maybe an extra 200 horsepower (or so) to be had from the ProCharger, but maxing out the supercharger was not the goal of the build.

Sources:

ARP 800.826.3045 arp-bolts.com

Comp Cams 901.795.2400 compcams.com

CP Pistons/Carrillo Rods 949.567.9000 cp-carrillo.com

Edelbrock 310.781.2222 edelbrock.com

Fel-Pro felpro-only.com

Holley/Hooker/NOS 270.782.2900 holley.com

MSD 915.857.5200 msdignition.com

ProCharger 913.338-2886 procharger.com

ProMaxx Performance 800.235.4323 promaxxperformance.com

Scat 310.370.5501 scatenterprises.com

Speedmaster 909.605.1123 speedmaster79.com

The post 496ci Big-Block Makes 1,144 hp on 11.2 psi of Boost! appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

from Hot Rod Network http://www.hotrod.com/articles/496ci-big-block-makes-1144-hp-on-11-2-psi-of-boost/ via IFTTT

#IFTTT #Hot Rod Network

0 notes

itsworn · 7 years

Text

How to Select and Install High-Performance Engine Bearings

There’s a bearing type for every reason and every possible application. MAHLE Clevite has got you covered, from Mom’s grocery-getter to 11,000hp blown Nitro motors. Here’s the scoop on choosing the right type.

An internal combustion engine’s main and rod bearings must “bear-up” under tremendous stresses and loads. In a pure grocery-getter, longevity is key: Bearings are expected to last for hundreds of thousands of miles, often with minimal maintenance. In a pure race car, they “only” have to survive the race, but to do that, they must withstand extreme high rpm, high heat, and cylinder pressures that can reach 10,000 psi or more. Add to that the increasing use of thin race oil and (rules permitting) ever smaller bearings, as racers attempt to wring out just a little more power. Somewhere in-between is the dual-purpose hot rod, where the engine may make big power, but also has to last for at least many tens of thousands of miles—essentially, a blend between the needs of a grocery-getter and the high-end race car. As technology continues to evolve, we sought out the latest recommendations for selecting high-perf bearings from MAHLE Clevite’s Bill McKnight, who for over 20 years has been training, teaching, and advising engine rebuilders and leading motorsports teams. Clevite has the industry’s broadest race bearing offerings, years and years of experience (it’s been around since 1920), and constantly works with leading race teams to develop new bearing technologies.

How They Work

In a perfect world, bearings work under the principle of “hydrodynamic lubrication.” In theory, direct metal-to-metal contact between the rotating parts should never occur due to a thin protective oil film between the two surfaces that forms a hydrodynamic wedge capable of supporting large loads. Think of tires aquaplaning on a wet road: Water accumulates faster than the vehicle weight and tire tread’s pumping action can push it out of the way, causing the vehicle to slide on that thin water layer. The oil film that forms on the main and rod journals acts the same way.

But here’s the key: For aquaplaning to occur, the car must reach a critical speed. Likewise, the crank must be rotating at a certain speed before the hydrodynamic wedge can form. Additionally, hydrodynamic lubrication assumes a flex-free assembly. In the real-world. Occasional metal-to-metal contact does occur. For the daily driver, this primarily includes start-up and shut-down; for a hot rod and race-car, add to that shaft flex, bending loads, and deflection caused by high loads, g-forces, and inertia. That’s where the bearing does its job: Take the brunt of occasional high-friction, metal-to-metal, contact when the oil film momentarily breaks down so the rest of the engine can continue operating without damage. But to do this they need to be matched to the correct application, then installed with the proper clearances.

Bimetal or Trimetal?

Today, there are two primary means of bearing construction: bimetal and trimetal. Modern bimetal designs consist of two materials: a steel back plus a layer of bearing material. Since the 1990s, the overlay has consisted of a relatively hard aluminum alloy bonded to the steel. It’s what comes stock on nearly all of today’s production cars.

A bimetal bearing has two layers: a steel backing with a top layer of either babbit or (left) aluminum. Babbit bearings for daily drivers have been pretty much phased out. Most performance bearings are a trimetal configuration (right), which consists of a steel back, a copper-lead or bronze alloy intermediate layer, and a relatively thin overlay material that varies per application.

Three-layer or “trimetal” designs have a steel back, a copper-lead intermediate layer, and a top layer of varying materials. They’re the standard for high-performance, racing, and (in the OE world) a select few high-end cars like the supercharged Corvette. MAHLE Clevite’s trimetal bearings are trademarked as the “Clevite 77,” and they first started appearing in the early 1950s.

Most modern cars and light-duty trucks come stock with “hard” bimetal aluminum bearings like Clevite’s A-series (left). The first step up is a three-layer, P-series Clevite-77 “trimetal” (right), that offers a little more shock resistance, but has a slightly shorter service life.

The trade-off between bimetal and trimetal is the expected service length versus resistance to extreme loads. The modern aluminum bimetal bearing is hard, so it wears slowly for a lifetime of moderate duty service. But on high-power engines subject to lots of horsepower and twisting cranks, you don’t want too hard a bearing. That’s where the softer, more forgiving, trimetal comes in. After all, most high-perf cars don’t go hundreds of thousands of miles on the original engine, but they do need to withstand metal-to-metal contact more often.

Modern OE cracked-cap rods are made in one piece. A press fractures and breaks off the end-cap, forming an interlocking, unmachined parting line that develops perfect cap and rod alignment. But they can’t be rebuilt by grinding down the two unmachined mating surfaces. Instead, bore an assembled rod’s big-end slightly oversize and use Clevite’s thicker P-series rod bearing (A, compared to original thin bearing, B).

Race Bearings

“On the street, step up from P- to H-series Clevite-77 trimetal bearings when horsepower output is roughly 50-percent more than the stock power.” —Bill McKnight

Today, Clevite offers four different overlay configurations for high-performance bearings, with a suffix in the part number denoting the material.

Clevite’s racing bearings, from front: Originally developed for NASCAR, H-series trimetal is suitable for most high-perf and racing apps. Don’t polish them: Their “ugly,” dull, top coat is normal. V-series trimetals have a more conformable overlay with better shock resistance. M-series is a severe-duty bimetal with a thick babbit overlay that’s still used by some early Hemi racers.

P-series: A stock replacement trimetal bearing for most older engines with about a 0.001-inch babbit (lead-tin-copper) overlay electroplated onto the bronze. A “P” might be all that’s offered for old-school engines made prior to the early 1960s.

H-series: The H-series Clevite-77 high-performance bearing 90 percent of Clevite’s performance bearing sales. It uses the same babbit formula as a P, but at about half the thickness to hold up better under heavy loads typically encountered in high-performance engines. “HN” variants are slightly narrower to clear enlarged fillets typical of most high-perf aftermarket cranks.

V-series: Originally popularized by the Vandervell bearing company (now owned by MAHLE), it uses a somewhat softer lead-Indium overlay. 98 percent of alcohol and nitromethane racers are said to use this type of bearing. They need fairly soft bearings to withstand the high shocks and loads; it also seems to work well with engines running larger journals. In general, if you are making from 2,500 to 11,000 hp this bearing might be for you. McKnight says supercharged big-block Chevys in the 1,800–2,000hp range might also benefit from this bearing.

M-series: Although classified with Clevite’s modern performance bearings, this is really a legacy bimetal design, with about a 0.020-inch thick babbit layer over a steel backing. Today it’s used primarily by Pro Mods, alcohol dragsters, and pulling tractors. As McKnight puts it, “It offers controlled wear until it’s worn away. Four out of five old 1950s first-gen Hemis use this bearing in tractor-pull applications. It’s effective up to 2,500 hp.”

To a large measure performance bearing selection closely dovetails with power output. “It’s basically a horsepower thing,” explains McKnight. “Zero to 700 hp will often run on stock A- or P-series bearings. 700 to 3,000 hp definitely requires a Clevite H or V series. 3,000–11,000 hp: You better be calling me!”

Journal Size

Although not common on the street or at the Sportsman level, Pro racers have long experimented with smaller-than-stock (for a particular engine) journal sizes—which of course means smaller bearings. There are a number of perceived advantages to smaller journals, including reduced bearing speeds and less rotating and reciprocating mass. With less friction, power improves. Other benefits include reduced inertia problems and an easier-to-balance engine. In NASCAR cup racing, rod bearings got as small as 1.770 inches before NASCAR standardized on the so-called “Honda” 1.850-inch-od. Small bearings are also popular in NHRA Pro Stock.

The downside? A smaller bearing is subject to higher unit loading per square inch of surface area, even as horsepower levels continue climbing. That these engines even survive is, McKnight explains, “due to very good fit-up, very good oil, tight clearances, and frequent replacement (we love that part). NASCAR engine life is about 600 miles; Pro Stock motors, about 8–10 miles. That’s not acceptable to most HOT ROD readers, but that’s what racing is all about!”

For over 10 years, Clevite has offered this indented-lug design for the very narrow shells used in NASCAR. This provides a smooth shell-half parting-line that reduces the narrow bearing’s tendency to fracture at a standard lug’s indentation point.

But for every rule there’s an exception: In the extremes of Funny Car and Top Fuel drag racing, unit loading is so crushing that some competitors use 3-inch mains. Even some blown small-block Chevy stroker “street” engines now make so much power that for long-term durability it’s increasingly common to order aftermarket blocks with larger 400ci main journals. Such larger than “normal” journals add strength to a big stroker crank by increasing the rod and main journal overlap.

Clearance

“Tighter bearing clearance is better than looser; thin oil is better than thick!” —Bill McKnight

What do you do if you’re walking on a frozen lake and hit a patch of thin ice (besides pray)? Lie down and spread your body’s load over as wide a surface area as possible. The same holds for bearing clearances. When the journal and main or rod bores are close to the same diameter (low clearance), the oil film contact area gets wider, spreading the load over a greater area.

On an engine prone to bearing failures, the old-school fix was a high-volume oil pump, thicker viscosity oil, looser bearing clearances, and maybe even fully-grooved main bearings. Current thinking considers these crutches counterproductive in most cases. They’re like a dog chasing its tail: It takes more power to spin a high-volume pump with thick, heavy oil, which is needed because of those big bearing clearances. But big clearances actually make it harder to establish and maintain the hydrodynamic oil film, as explained by Clevite’s technical literature: “Tighter clearances are desirable because they cause the curvature of the shaft and bearing to be more closely matched. This results in a broader oil film that spreads the load over more of the bearing surface, thus reducing the pressure within the oil film and on the bearing surface. This will in turn improve bearing life and performance.”

Bearings aren’t perfectly round or of uniform thickness. Each shell-end is about 0.005-inch longer than a half-circle, and their wall thickness is slightly tapered. This causes an assembled bearing to bulge slightly outward, generating a spring-like “crush,” which is what really holds them in position. It also compensates for bore distortion and aids heat transfer. Taper and eccentricity amounts vary by series and application.

Locating tangs are really just a hand-assembly aid. In fact, some modern rod bearings such as this one for a Chrysler 4.7L OHC V8 have no locator. It was a midstream change for this engine, but the no-tab bearing even replaces the old tanged version on the first-design tanged rods. Eliminating the locators saves up to 26 machining “cuts” per motor. That’s huge cost savings for the OEs.

Such tighter clearances must correlate closely with engine oil viscosity. Thinner oils that reduce friction (whether for more power in racing or better gas mileage on the street) work best with and are intended for tight-clearance operating environments. Even old-school engines can tighten up their clearances if they’re running modern thin oils. “I’m sold on full synthetic oil in my engines,” maintains McKnight.

How tight should the bearing clearances be in a high-perf or racing application? When running SAE 30 or thinner straight viscosity oil as well as modern multiviscosity oils, McKnight recommends a minimum 0.001-inch clearance for every 1-inch of shaft diameter:

Minimum Clearance = Shaft Diameter × 0.001

For example, McKnight says an “LS Chevy has a 2.100-inch rod journal, so around 0.0025 would be a very good clearance to strive for.” And on an old-school, big-journal engine like a 460 Ford with its 3-inch mains? “That calls for 0.003-inch minimum clearance—which seems loose, but it’s still tight relative to such a large journal. If you are running the engine hard and are relatively new at this, add 0.0005-inch more for starters. As you learn from experience and by observing the bearing condition when you teardown the engine, you can start reducing clearance.”

The eccentric bearing shells are thickest at 90 degrees from the parting line split; therefore, measure clearance vertically, 90 degrees from the shells’ parting line. The rule of thumb for performance engines is to allow 0.001-inch of vertical clearance for every 1-inch of shaft diameter.

Photo By: Jeff Smith

Once you get down to 0.002 or less—not atypical with Pro racing engines using small bearings or today’s OE engines designed from the ground up for tight clearances—oil may have difficulty getting into the journals to establish the wedge. That’s where the really thin new-tech synthetic oils come in: Some Pro Stock engines run 0W-7 or 0W-10 viscosities—but they preheat a cold engine before startup.

Many hard-core engine builders are so exacting they use slightly different-size upper and lower shells on a given journal to “split the hair” on clearances. “I’ve recently been working with some NHRA motorcycle teams,” relates McKnight. “They use very small rod journals, make 200 hp per cylinder, and use 0W-10 oil, which means we must have the clearance as tight as possible.” It’s OK to mix bearing sizes if less than 0.001-inch clearance adjustment is needed. Mixing standard with 0.001-inch oversize (denoted by an “X” in the part number suffix) or undersize shells respectively decreases or increases clearance about 0.0005 inch.

Aluminum rods use bearings with a dowel-hole in the lower shells. In a pinch, dowel-hole bearings also can be used in a steel rod. But if you think you need to “pin” a steel rod to prevent spun bearings, something else is wrong: clearance, crush, and/or oil starvation. Tangs and pins are really just assembly location aids only.

On most engines, only the top main bearing is grooved. McKnight: “That bearing should be ‘hydroplaning’ on the oil film. Which hydroplanes easier: slicks or treaded tires? A bearing groove is just like tire tread.” Upper main shells, which see less loads than the lowers, have retained a groove to supply the connecting rods with oil.

Another old-school “trick” was a main-bearing set with a 360-degree groove. Most main bearings are a half-groove, 180-degree design, with a smooth bottom shell and a grooved upper shell to supply oil to the rods. A 360-degree configuration has a full groove on both the upper and lower shells. Although still offered for some engines to appease traditionalists, they’re pretty much obsolete. McKnight explains, “Grooving the bottom shell takes away 20 percent of the bearing’s load-bearing area. Forces are trying to drive the crank down out of the engine, so that’s critical! Today we’re smarter. The oil is better. We know how to improve the oiling characteristics of marginal stock oil systems. Because bearings taper out from the center towards the parting line, grooves actually gives you an avenue to loose pressure. Some of today’s stockers now only have just a 120-degree upper groove.”

Although still offered for some legacy engines, fully-grooved main bearings usually aren’t the way to go. As groove length increases so does horsepower loss and peak oil film pressure, both of which are transmitted directly to the bearing. This fully-grooved small-block Chevy main set goes for $89.97 at Summit Racing. Summit Racing

Traditionally, the top main shell’s groove has always been a “180-degree” style (the top has a full groove, left). However, as technology continues to evolve, some new OE motors as well as high-end motors are reducing the groove to 140 degrees (right) or even 120-degrees

Coatings

“Use a TriArmor coated K-series bearing any time you can get one.” —Bill McKnight

Clevite’s TriArmor coating is a proprietary dry film applied to a trimetal Clevite-77 bearing’s top surface, but not to its parting lines. It adds low-load start-up protection, and serves as a high-pressure, high-load dry film antiwear agent that adds protection across a broad range of temperatures, especially when oil flow is marginal.

A relatively recent innovation, Clevite has offered coated bearings for about 14 years. A blend of polytetrafluoroethylene, graphite, and molybdenum disulfide, its “TriArmor” coating protects the bearing in marginal oiling-film situations that may occur in circle-track, Sportsman racing, Pro Stock drag racing, and even enthusiast street vehicles.

Clevite dark gray TriArmor coating (denoted by a “K” in the part number suffix) protects the bearing under extreme stress. The bearing shown here (PN CB-663HNK-1) is a 0.0001-inch undersize, H-series, narrowed, and coated small-block Chevy rod bearing. Note that on a coated (K) bearing, the K may not be embossed on the shell, but will be present on the packaging. Even on a street car, McKnight says a coated bearing is “really, really, good insurance if your car’s parked all winter.” TriArmor coating increases the bearing thickness about 0.0003-inch, not significant unless you’re running very tight clearances.

Coated bearings couldn’t be used at first in alcohol- or nitro-fueled boats, pulling tractors, and drag-racing engines; their extreme cylinder pressures could wipe the standard coating off in one pass. To solve the problem, Clevite developed its “Nitro V” coating for these specialized Hemi-engine main and rod bearings. Now used by most Pro teams, they may not necessarily last any longer, but when things do go bad, they don’t blacken the crank, saving thousands of dollars.

Some factory stockers now or soon will have coated bearings. While these cars’ bimetal aluminum bearings have a long service life, they don’t have the lubricity of the old babbit bearings they replaced. This can become a problem as fuel-saving traffic-light “start-stop” technology becomes more common. Startup is where a lot of bearing wear occurs, and now it’s happening dozens of times a day in city driving. Small diesels with bimetal aluminum bearings also can experience problems due to a diesel’s higher loads.

Resolving these issues requires a new generation of coatings. Performance-oriented coatings were meant to improve bearing performance under extreme loads, but for relatively short durations. For a stocker, the loads are less extreme, but the bearings need to last 300,000 miles. MAHLE Clevite is now testing a new polyamide polymer coating with exceptional thermal and wear properties to solve these issues. Stay tuned.

Cleanliness

“Some builders used to wipe the dull gray coating off a trimetal H-series bearing. It just means you need more bearings quicker. They’re supposed to be ugly!” —Bill McKnight

Choosing the right bearing, oil, and clearances will all be for naught if care is not exercised during assembly. McKnight says, “40 percent of bearing failures are caused by dirt, most often left in when you build the engine. Don’t polish new bearings with a rag; clean them in acetone with a thin sheet of newsprint paper. Another 40 percent of wear is caused by lack of good lubrication. That starts with assembly lube on the bearings that offers protection until the engine picks up oil and starts pumping it around.” Follow these guidelines and your engine will be loaded for bearings. And if you have any more questions, Clevite has a toll-free tech phone line and its tech advisors also respond to email inquiries.

The post How to Select and Install High-Performance Engine Bearings appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

from Hot Rod Network http://www.hotrod.com/articles/select-install-high-performance-engine-bearings/ via IFTTT

#IFTTT #Hot Rod Network

0 notes