#Paul harnden

[funstealer]

Paul Harnden coat with print of Ilya Repin's 1876 painting, “Sadko in the Underwater Kingdom.”

[paulharnden-and-elenadawson]

synniell

[sweetbitch8888]

[jjimjil-bang]

Paul Harnden

[m0rceauuuxxx]

wearing hair up for the first time in ages

[tbac]

SKINNOSH custom order briefcase.

[shifting---patterns]

Elena Dawson: The Art of Artisanal Fashion

Today's blog post marks a special moment for me. Not only because it's my first on Shifting Patterns, but also because I deeply admire and enjoy the work of this designer. So much so that my wife and I even got married in her garments. Today, I want to introduce you to Elena Dawson.

Elena Dawson, a London-born fashion designer for menswear and womenswear, keeps much of her personal life under wraps.There's no existing website anymore, and her former blog is no longer accessible. Only a Instagram account with a couple of posts and a contact email serves as a point of contact. It all somewhat reminds of the enigmatic Paul Harnden, doesn't it? But we'll get to that later. She studied Art and Fashion Design at the University of Brighton and worked as a seamstress after completing her degree. At that time, she said, "I draw on the knowledge I learned at the tailors still now in the way I make clothing."

In 2000, she co-founded the clothing line "Paul Harnden Clothiers" with her ex-partner Paul Harnden. She was an integral part of the design, concept, and business until 2009 with Paul Harnden, who was primarily known under the name "Paul Harnden Shoemakers" until then, when she decided to establish her own clothing and shoe label in East Sussex. Her studio is located there as well. Despite Dawson's departure, Paul Harnden's ready-to-wear collections continue to this day. Since 2009, the brand has naturally grown, but Dawson still produces her clothes and shoes herself, supported by a small team. Everything is produced in-house in multiple studio spaces, but all is handmade.

The aesthetic of Dawson's work at Paul Harnden and her own brand has definitely evolved over the years. Paul Harnden, who is now known not only for his shoes but also for his blazers/jackets, coats, trousers, and shirts, has a rather clean cut and neatly sewn edges. On the other hand, Elena Dawson has a rather rough look and is known for her unfinished seams with dangling fabric scraps. It's sometimes hard to describe, but she has a very romantic, poetic, Victorian look that partly reminds me of Tim Burton movies.

When I put on one of her beloved blazers, I often feel like a part of Bertolt Brecht's Threepenny Opera, almost like a wardrobe from the 19th century. I own 2 blazers (linen and wool), 1 linen shirt, 2 pants (linen and cotton), and silk accessories from Dawson. My wife has a mix of a coat and dress. All her clothes are labelled with the classic "Elena Dawson - Made In England" label and the washing/material information written in her really unreadable handwriting with a Sharpie.

The coats and blazers (mostly) feature beige/white cotton lining, and the classic look, often seen online, is achieved by rolling the sleeves backward, exposing the lining through the open seams. She works with a dress form, sculpturing everything, and only uses natural materials. Her favorites are English wool, Indian cotton, Irish linen, and Chinese silk. She describes her work as follows: "When you work on alterations you are really tearing the guts out of the garment, performing a sort of autopsy—you really get to see a garment at its most vulnerable point. Observing this state of semi-deconstruction in the making of a garment or shoe is what I like to retain in my finished work."

You'll rarely get the chance to buy her pieces online, as there are hardly any retailers offering her items online. She mentioned: "We don't do much press or social media work and we don't sell online at all. I'm not against that. It's just not the brand's main job." Elena Dawson limits the maximum order quantity and carefully chooses her retailers. She prefers to keep the brand small, and even on classic online platforms like Grailed, Vestiaire Collective, or eBay, you won't find many of her items used.

I highly recommend visiting a retailer near you for the experience alone and trying on the clothes in-store. In my case, it's Harvey's in Berlin. However, the most well-known point of sale is probably Dover Street Market in London, with whom she has a strong relationship, as Dover Street Market has actively supported her brand from the beginning, granting her a significant presence there. In Tokyo, I was also able to find her pieces at DSM and at the Comme des Garcons Pocket Store.

The result is garments full of personality that evolve over time alongside one's own personality, incomparable to any other looks consumed and worn nowadays. Each piece, crafted by her hands, is unique, and I'll tell you, the first time I wore an Elena Dawson blazer at Harvey's in Berlin, it resonated with me. The look, the weight, the fit… it felt like a second skin, and over the course of 2 years, seeing how it aged with me, it became more like an extension of myself each day.

Here's to Elena — may your artistic journey continue to inspire and captivate for years to come!

Davis Jahn

[danielgianfranceschi]

A Softer Touch

[vowism]

Junichiro Tanizaki’s “In Praise of Shadows (1933)” explores the unique aesthetics of Japanese culture, emphasizing the concept of wabi-sabi, which finds beauty in imperfection and transience. Tanizaki delves into how the Japanese appreciation for shadows and subdued lighting contrasts with Western preferences for brightness and clarity.

“If light is scarce then light is scarce; we will immerse ourselves in the darkness and there discover its own particular beauty.”

In his words, “We find beauty not in the thing itself, but in the pattern of shadows, light and darkness, that one thing against another creates.” This reflects the Japanese aesthetic, which values the harmony of light and shadow to create a serene and profound beauty.

In traditional Japanese architecture, natural light is minimized, and shadows are used to enhance the ambiance of a space. Walls and ceilings are often dark-colored, with light entering indirectly to add depth and mystery to the environment. This approach contrasts sharply with Western architecture, which tends to favor open, brightly lit spaces.

The concept of wabi-sabi is central to Japanese aesthetics, celebrating the beauty found in the natural, the aged, and the imperfect. This philosophy is evident in the use of materials and finishes that age gracefully, enhancing their beauty over time. Tanizaki’s exploration of these themes in “In Praise of Shadows” provides a deep understanding of the subtle and nuanced beauty that defines Japanese culture.

Japanese art, music, photography, cinema, furniture, architecture, and design often embody the harmony of light, shadow, and darkness, celebrating simplicity and transience. The wabi-sabi aesthetic values the beauty found in imperfection, seen in the natural aging of materials over time. This approach highlights the delicate interplay of light and darkness, emphasizing the profound beauty in what is worn and imperfect.

[infinitycutter]

paul harnden

[funstealer]

gasparddal

[paulharnden-and-elenadawson]

ola.laszkiewicz

[sweetbitch8888]

marc x archivio

dream combo

[dare-g]

May Tomorrow Shine the Brightest of all Your Many Days as it Will be your Last (2009)

[m0rceauuuxxx]

it was just wickedly hot yesterday

[jammerskrik]