#Pagoda Dogwood

[james-in-pace]

Beautiful illustration of leaves from Catskill Mountain trees - these can be found on the Mountain Top Arboretum https://www.mtarboretum.org/native-trees-gallery

[monardas]

[iicraft505]

who do i have to kill for a pagoda/alternate-leaf dogwood picture that actually shows the leaves alternating 🫠

[blackswallowtailbutterfly]

Native Plants I’ve Actually Seen Growing Wild in Southern Ontario

Acer saccharinum (silver maple) --along the sides of highways

Acer saccharum (sugar maple) --GTA ravines

Achillea millefolia (yarrow) --GTA ravines

Allium schoenoprasum (wild chives) --GTA ravines, Ridgetown

Allium tricoccum (ramps) --Niagara region escarpments

Amaranthus retroflexus (redroot amaranth) --fallow areas in the GTA

Ambrosia artemisiifolia (ragweed) --fallow areas in the GTA

Ambrosia trifida (giant ragweed) --parks in the GTA

Amelanchier spp. (saskatoon/serviceberry) --GTA ravines

Arisaema triphyllum (Jack-in-the-pulpit) --GTA ravines

Aronia melanocarpa (black chokeberry) --ravines and parks in the GTA

Asarum canadense (Canada ginger) --GTA ravines

Asclepias syriaca (common milkweed) --fallow areas, ravines, and parks throughout southern Ontario from Windsor to GTA

Asplenium trichomanes (maidenhair spleenwort) --Niagara region escarpments

Betula spp. (birch) --ravines and parks throughout southern Ontario from Windsor to GTA

Bidens spp. (beggar ticks) --GTA ravines

Caulophyllum thalictroides (blue cohosh) --GTA parks

Ceratophyllum demersum (hornwort) --GTA ravines (native in freshwater across the globe anyway)

Circaea lutetiana (enchanter’s nightshade) --fallow areas in the GTA

Commelina spp. (dayflower) --fallow areas in Windsor

Cornus alternifolia (Pagoda dogwood) --GTA wooded areas

Cornus sericea (red osier dogwood) --GTA ravines and in Windsor riverside parks

Crataegus spp. (hawthorn) --GTA ravines and parks

Echinocystis lobata (wild prickly cucumber) --GTA ravines

Elaeagnus commutata (silverberry) --GTA parks and fallow areas

Epilobium ciliatum (fringed willowherb) --fallow areas in the GTA

Equisetum spp. (horsetail/scouring rush) --GTA ravines and fallow areas

Erigeron spp. (fleabane) --GTA parks and fallow areas, Ridgetown

Erythronium americanum (trout lily) --GTA ravines and parks

Eutrochium maculatum (Joe-Pye weed) --GTA parks

Fragaria virginiana (wild strawberry) --fallow areas in the GTA

Geranium maculatum (wild geranium) --Windsor green spaces

Geranium robertianum (herb robert) --Windsor green spaces

Geum aleppicum (yellow avens) --GTA fallow areas

Geum canadense (white avens) --GTA fallow areas

Geum macrophyllum (large-leaved avens) --GTA fallow areas

Gymnocladus dioicus (Kentucky coffee tree) --GTA ravines

Helianthus spp. (sunflower) --GTA fallow areas and parks

Heracleum maximum (cow parsnip) --GTA ravines

Hordeum jubatum (foxtail barley) --GTA fallow areas

Humulus lupulus (hops) --GTA ravines

Hydrophyllum virginianum (Virginia waterleaf) --GTA ravines

Impatiens capensis (jewelweed) --GTA ravines and in Windsor riverside parks

Juglans nigra (black walnut) --GTA ravines

Lactuca canadensis (Canadian lettuce) --GTA fallow areas

Lilium michiganense (Michigan lily) --GTA ravines

Lupinus perennis (sundial lupine) --GTA parks

Maianthemum canadense (Canada mayflower) --GTA ravines

Maianthemum racemosum (starry false solomon’s seal) --GTA ravines and parks

Maianthemum stellatum (starry false solomon’s seal) --GTA ravines

Matteuccia struthiopteris (ostrich fern) --GTA ravines

Monarda fistulosa (wild bergamot) --GTA ravines and parks

Morus rubra (red mulberry) --fallow areas in Windsor, GTA parks

Myosotis laxa (smallflower forget-me-not) --GTA fallow areas

Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) --GTA fallow areas

Onoclea sensibilis (sensitive fern) --GTA ravines

Oxalis stricta (yellow wood sorrel) --fallow areas and ravines throughout southern Ontario from Windsor to GTA

Parietaria pensylvanica (Pennsylvania pellitory) --GTA fallow areas

Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper) --Windsor fallow areas and GTA ravines and parks

Persicaria lapathifolia (curlytop smartweed) --GTA fallow areas

Podophyllum peltatum (mayapple) --GTA ravines and parks

Portulaca oleracea (purslane) --fallow areas throughout southern Ontario from Windsor to GTA (native globally anyway)

Potentilla norvejica monspeliensis (ternate-leaved cinquefoil) --GTA fallow areas

Prunella vulgaris (selfheal) --fallow areas and ravines throughout southern Ontario from Windsor to GTA

Prunus virginiana (chokecherry) --Windsor fallow areas, GTA ravines and parks, Niagara region escarpments

Pteridium aquilinum latiusculum (western bracken fern) --GTA parks

Quercus spp. (oak) --wooded areas throughout southern Ontario from Windsor to GTA

Rhus typhina (staghorn sumac) --parks and fallow areas throughout southern Ontario from Windsor to Collingwood

Ribes spp. (currants) --GTA ravines and parks

Ribes spp. (gooseberries) --GTA ravines

Robinia pseudoacacia (black locust) --GTA ravines and parks

Rosa spp. (roses) --GTA ravines, parks, and fallow areas

Rubus occidentalis (black raspberry) --ravines, parks, and fallow areas in Hamilton and GTA

Rubus odoratus (purple-flowered raspberry) --GTA ravines and parks

Rubus strigosus (American red raspberry) --GTA parks

Rudbeckia hirta (black-eyed susan) --GTA parks

Salix spp. (willow) --GTA ravines

Sambucus canadensis (common elderberry) --Windsor riverside parks, GTA ravines

Sambucus racemosa (red elderberry) --GTA ravines and parks

Smilax spp. (greenbrier) --GTA parks

Solidago canadensis (Canada goldenrod) --parks and fallow areas throughout southern Ontario from Windsor to GTA

Sorbus spp. (mountain ash) --GTA ravines and parks

Streptopus spp. (twistedstalk) --GTA parks

Symphoricarpos spp. (snowberry) --GTA parks

Symphyotrichum ericoides (heath aster) --fallow areas throughout southern Ontario from Windsor to GTA

Symphyotrichum novae-angliae (New England aster) --fallow areas throughout southern Ontario from Windsor to GTA

Symplocarpus foetidus (skunk cabbage) --GTA parks

Tilia spp. (linden) --GTA ravines

Trillium grandiflorum (white trillium) --parks throughout southern Ontario from Windsor to GTA

Tsuga canadensis (eastern hemlock) --GTA parks

Typha latifolia (broad-leaved cattail) --marshes in Essex county and GTA

Urtica gracilis (slender nettle) --GTA ravines

Uvularia spp. (bellwort) --streams in Windsor green spaces

Verbena hastata (blue vervain) --GTA ravines

Viburnum lentago (nannyberry) --GTA parks and Ridgetown ravine

Viburnum trilobum (highbush cranberry) --Ridgetown

Viola sororia (wood violet) --fallow areas and wooded areas throughout southern Ontario from Windsor to GTA

Vitis riparia (riverbank grape) --GTA fallow areas, ravines, and parks

Waldsteinia fragarioides (barren strawberry) --GTA ravines and parks

Xanthium strumarium canadense (Canada cocklebur) --GTA parks and fallow areas

I’ve likely seen many others and just couldn’t identify them, but there are a lot I’ve never seen growing wild. What I’m hoping is that some of the native species I have in my garden will make their way to the nearby ravine. If I get around to it, though, I might just take a walk with some Asclepias incarnata (swamp milkweed) seeds in the fall. They certainly seem to successfully germinate in my garden whether I want them to or not (don’t have space for them to go crazy). Can’t see why they wouldn’t in a natural swamp area.

[kihaku-gato]

Tulips, Mahonia, Pagoda Dogwood, & Siberian Iris

Cuddy Gardens June 1st

[venusplanetofluv]

[indefenseofplants]

Plant Architecture and Its Evolutionary Implications

I make it a point that during my field season I enjoy my breakfast out on the deck. It is situated about halfway up the canopy of the surrounding forest and offers a unique perspective that is hard to come by elsewhere. Instead of looking up at the trees, I am situated in a way that allows for a better understanding of the overall structure of the forest. Its this perspective that generates a lot of different questions about what it takes to survive in a forested system, especially as it relates to sessile organisms like plants.

Quite possibly my favorite plants to observe from the deck are the pagoda dogwoods (Cornus alternifolia). As this common name suggests, this wonderful small tree takes on a pagoda-like growth form with its stacked, horizontal branching pattern. It is unmistakable against the backdrop of other small trees and shrubs in the mid canopy. The fact that it, as well as many other plant species, can be readily recognized and identified on shape alone will not be lost on most plant enthusiasts.

Even without the proper vocabulary to describe their forms, anyone with a keen search image understands there is a gestalt to most species and that there is more to this than simply fodder for dichotomous keys. The overall form of plants has garnered attention from a variety of fields. Such investigations involve fields of study like theoretical and quantitative biology to engineering and biomechanics. It has even been used to understand how life may evolve on other planets. It is a fascinating field of investigation and one worth a deeper look. 

Some of the pioneering work on this subject started with two European botanists: Dr. Francis Hallé and Dr. Roelof Oldeman. Together they worked on conceptual models of tree architecture. Using a plethora of empirical studies on whether a tree branches or doesn't, where branches occurs, how shoots extend, how branches differentiate, and whether reproductive structures are terminal or lateral, they were able to reduce the total number of tree forms down to 23 basic architectural models (pictured above). Each model describes the overall pattern with which plants grow, branch, and produce reproductive structures. At the core of these models is the concept of reiteration or the repitition of form in repeatable sub-units. The models themselves were given neutral names that reflect the botanists that provided the groundwork necessary to understand them.  

Despite the fact that these models are based on investigations of tropical tree species, they are largely applicable to all plant types whether they are woody or herbaceous and whether they occur in the temperate zone or in the tropics. The models themselves do not represent precise categories but rather points on a spectrum of architectural possibilities. Some plants may be intermediate between two forms or share features of more than one model. It should also be noted that most trees conform to a specific model for only a limited time period during their early years of development. After some time, random or stochastic events throughout a trees life greatly influence its overall structure. The authors are careful to point out that a trees crown is the result of all the deterministic, opportunistic, and chance events in its lifetime.  

Despite these exceptions, the adherence of most plants to these 23 basic models is quite remarkable. Although many of the 23 models are only found in the tropics (likely an artifact of the higher number of species in the tropics than in the temperate zones), they provide accurate reference points for further study. For instance, the restriction of some growth forms to the tropics raises intriguing questions. What is it about tropical habitats that restricts models such as Nozeran's (represented by chocolate - Theobroma cacao) and Aubréville's (represented by the sea almond - Terminalia catappa) to these tropical environments? It likely has to do with the way in which lateral buds develop. In these models, buds develop without a dormancy stage, a characteristic that is not possible in the seasonal climates of the temperate zones. 

Another interesting finding borne from these models is that there doesn't seem to be strong correlations between architecture and phylogeny. Although species within a specific genus often share similar architecture, there are often many exceptions. What's more, the same form can occur in unrelated species. For instance, Aubréville's model occurs in at least 19 different families. Similarly, the family Icacinaceae, which contains somewhere between 300 and 400 species, exhibits at least 7 of the different models. Alternatively, some families are architecturally quite simple. For instance the gymnosperms are considered architecturally poor, exhibiting only 4 of the different models. Even large families of flowering plants can be architecturally simplistic. The Fabaceae, for instance, are largely made up of plants exhibiting Troll's model. 

So, at this point the question of what is governing these models becomes apparent. If most plants can be reduced to these growth forms at some point in their life then there must be some aspect of the physical world that has shaped their evolution through time. Additionally, how does plant architecture at the physical level scale up to the level of a forest? Questions such as this are fundamental to our understanding of not only plants as organisms, but the role they play in shaping the world around us. 

Although many scientists have attempted to tackle these sorts of questions, I want to highlight the work on one individual in particular - Dr. Karl Niklas. His work utilizes mathematics to explain plant growth and form in relation to four basic physical constraints:

1) Plants have to capture sunlight and avoid shading their own leaves.

2) Plants have to support themselves structurally.

3) Plants have to conduct water to their various tissues.

4) Plants must be able to reproduce effectively.

Using these basic constraints, Dr. Niklas built a mathematical simulation of plant evolution. His model starts out as a "universe" containing billions of possible plant architectures. The model then assesses each of these forms on how well it is able to grow, survive, and reproduce through time. The model is then allowed to change environmental conditions to assess how these various forms perform as well as how they evolve. 

The most remarkable part of this model is that it inevitably produces all sorts of familiar plant forms, such as those we see in lycophytes, ferns, as well as many of the tree architectural models mentioned above. What's more, later iterations of the model as well as others do an amazingly accurate job at predicting forest structure dynamics such as self-thinning, mortality, and realistic size/frequency distributions of various species. 

It would appear that the rules governing what we know as a plant are to some degree universal. Because constraints such as light capture and the passive movement of water are firmly grounded in the laws of physics, it makes sense that the successful plant architectures we know and love today (as well as those present through the long history of plant evolution on this planet) are in large part a result of these physical constraints. It also begs the question of what photosynthetic life would look like on other planets. It is likely that if life arose and made its living in a similar way, familiar "plant" architecture could very well exist on other planets.

Photo Credits: [1] [2] [3]

Further Reading: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5]

[gfloutdoors]

Pagoda Dogwood Wisconsin: Native or Not?

Pagoda Dogwood Wisconsin: Native or Not?

Landscaping isn’t all about lush green grass and beautiful flowers blooming cheerfully during the spring and summer months. It’s also about making your yard look great in the fall and winter when everything else is dying back. It’s about striking the right balance between function and form. And it’s about having a little bit of everything, including some unique trees that will add interest and…

[mrmaplematt]

CORNUS ALTERNIFOLIA ‘LEMON EDGE’ PAGODA DOGWOOD https://mrmaple.com/collections/mrmaple-10-new-trees-10am-on-tuesday/products/buy-cornus-alternifolia-lemon-edge-pagoda-dogwood #mrmaple #cornusalternifolia #lemonedge #pagoda #pagodadogwood #dogwood #variegatedplants (at MrMaple.com) https://www.instagram.com/p/CNAPXDih2qz/?igshid=159zwjf1woted

[missouri-witchcraft]

Dogwood Associations & Correspondences

The Missouri State Arboreal Emblem (cough, the State Tree) is the flowering dogwood (cornus florida).

Other dogwoods that make an appearance in Missouri include the cornus alternifolia (alternate-leaved/pagoda dogwood, green osier), the cornus amomum (silky dogwood, red willow, silky cornel, kinnikinnick, squawbush), the cornus drummondii (rough-leaved dogwood), the cornus foemina (stiff/swamp dogwood), and the cornus racemosa (gray/northern swamp/panicle dogwood).

ASSOCIATIONS

Animals

dog

Comets & Planets

Jupiter (cornelian cherry)

Mars

Moon

Pluto

Deities & Figures

Consus (Roman)

Cú Chulainn (Irish)

Diana (Roman)

Svarog (Slavic)

Elements

air

earth

fire

Entities

ancestors

Kranaia (Greek)

Holidays

Beltane

Midsummer’s Eve

Ostara

Summer Solstice

Zodiac Signs

Pisces

CORRESPONDENCES

affection

attraction

banishing

boundaries

comfort

confidence

confidence in meetings

consecration

creativity

defense

desire

divination

fertility

fidelity [especially leaves]

good health

guarding personal books

guarding private letters [oil]

happiness

healing

healing dogs

healing emotions

health

heroism

inspiration

keeping writings secret

love [especially leaves]

love divination

loyalty [especially leaves]

manifestation

miracles

passion

physical healing

privacy [leaves]

protection [especially leaves, sap, wood]

renewal

secrets [especially leaves]

sexual attraction

strength

trust [bark, branches]

will

wishes [especially sap]

[ineffablefool]

I went outside for twenty whole minutes today!  Here are some of the nicest pictures I got from my backyard.

IDs behind the readmore.  Also, all of these photos are © 2021 by ineffablefool and licensed under CC BY-NC 4.0.

Top row: three different clumps of wood violet (Viola papilionacea).  This is Wisconsin’s state flower!  They were in the yard when we got here, although we didn’t know at first because the lawn was kept mowed much more assiduously than we care to bother with.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen the purple-spangled version from the middle picture before, but this year it’s all over the yard.

Middle row: two images of wood poppies (Stylophorum diphyllum).  One of my very favorite flowers.  I planted four or five of them, eight or nine years ago, and now we have... maybe two hundred?  Maybe more?  They spread like whoa but they’re native and they seem to compete well against the garlic mustard so I continue to welcome their ridiculously bright yellow into my life.

Bottom row left: Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica).  We probably bought this at the Friends Of The Arboretum plant sale in 2018 or 2019 and then forgot we planted it?  Had no idea what it was until it bloomed, but Google tells me M. virginica has been sold at the arboretum, so probably it didn’t volunteer. (also ft. a photobombing wood poppy seriously they’re everywhere)

Bottom row right: wood anemone (Anemone quinquefolia).  We definitely planted this a few years back.  It’s doing well, even if we do need to hack the wood poppies back from it.  (they’re everywherrrrre)

Not pictured:

I’ve got at least a half-dozen volunteer prairie trilliums (Trillium recurvatum) in addition to the three or four I planted years ago.  I’m very pleased because I adore prairie trilliums.  (Wikipedia claims that they’re of special concern in Wisconsin, but the source is a wayback’d DNR link, and nowhere on the current DNR website do I find anything about this being true now.  Still like ‘em.)

We’ve planted two pagoda dogwoods (Cornus alternifolia) over the years, and they both started out about 3 feet tall, and now they’re both way taller than me.  The older one is taller than the first floor of my house.  I love you, dogwood pals.

Way over near the back corner there’s something that looks like a non-native bluebell maybe?  I didn’t feel like climbing over the pile of dead branches to get close enough for a good picture.  Guessing it volunteered from a neighbor’s garden, though.

There was a very large bumblebee who looked like an excellent friend.

[jillraggett]

Plant of the Day

Wednesday 9 October 2019

Several specimens of Cornus controversa 'Variegata' (wedding cake tree, variegated table dogwood, pagoda tree) were acting as focal points in the Royal Horticultural Society Garden Wisley, Surrey, Uk. This small deciduous tree has a distinctive, tiered habit and the leaves have broad margins of cream that turn yellow in autumn. The plant needs a well-drained soil in sun or partial shade.

Jill Raggett

[livedrawhkpools]

What Is an Outdoor Living Area? One Definition

What is an outdoor living area? The easy answer is simple and very broad: it can be whatever the owner wants it to be, providing of course that it is outside and that a good deal of time is spent living in it. What are your wants and needs? How do you like to spend your time out-of-doors? These are the questions that will help develop your definition of an outdoor living area. For these reasons, my definition of an outdoor living area includes the following features:

a furnished patio, dining area and kitchen. an activity area including a swimming pool and lounge area. a well designed landscape and garden area to add ambiance. First and foremost, the key elements of an outdoor living area, like the inside of the home, include a kitchen, a dining area and a patio sitting area. When weather permits our family likes to cook, eat, relax and entertain outside; my wife and I like to have our friends over; our three teenage children like to have their friends over. Cooking, then, is important and takes place at all hours from morning until midnight. See it here live draw hk pools

A good barbecue forms the center piece of any outdoor kitchen but an extra burner or two in some form also make life easier for the cook. An ample work surface with a chopping block or cutting board can further increase the cook's pleasure time outside. Access to water, whether it be full outdoor plumbing or simply a hose hook-up or water dispenser, is yet another necessity. One more important feature is a means of keeping food and beverages cool and handy, either in a fridge or cooler on ice. An added bonus for me is a sit up counter area where friends can watch and keep me company while I cook. All of these features should be arranged to form an efficient working triangle just as they are indoors. Next, the kitchen should have easy access to the dining area.

A dining table with seating to accommodate groups larger than just immediate family is a wise move if space permits. Once again, a bonus here would be outdoor storage space to hold patio dishes, flatware and linen. A chest or garden hutch could easily be adapted to fit this purpose. Finally an area to sit, relax, read, converse and even watch TV if possible is a lovely addition to any outdoor living area. Comfortable chairs, couches, side tables, a glider or porch swing and even a daybed can make this area cozy and inviting. Patio furniture can be purchased in a wide range of styles and materials to meet anyone's taste and preference; my bias leans to cedar patio furniture.The goal here, ultimately, is to make the outdoor living area mirror the comfort and design of the indoors.

In addition to eating, relaxing and entertaining outside, we also like to be active; thus my outdoor living area also includes a swimming pool and space for other activities. Pools come in three basic styles: in ground, on ground and above ground. In ground pools are by far the most expensive option but they also offer the greatest range of use and the best aesthetics. The pool is best placed where it can receive maximum sun, an aspect not so necessary in hotter climes perhaps but certainly so further north where summers are a bit shorter and less intense. Ample decking all around the pool is necessary for good traffic flow and for ease of cleaning and maintaining.

I recommend two distinct patio areas be included in the pool deck design. One is an open area where lounge chairs or adirondacks can be placed for sun worshipers. The other should offer an escape from the sun in the form of a covered bar/sitting area or some form of pagoda or tiki hut. As a rule, people will stay by the pool longer if they can get out of the sun for a bit without deserting the entire area. A hot-tub spa or a sauna would be a pleasant addition as well, if for no other reason because they add a year-round drawing card to the patio. Additionally, if space allows I would set aside a relatively long but not needfully wide area for playing catch with a baseball or football, for shooting pucks or practising soccer kicks, or for pitching horseshoes, bocce, lawn bowling, whatever. Most yards can accommodate all, or at least some of these features to some degree; downsizing is preferable to omitting. The more options available, the more enjoyment can be taken.

Finally, atmosphere and ambiance are vital to any outdoor living area; these elements can be created with a well designed garden and complimentary landscaping. The goal here is to set the mood for whatever activities occur, be they pool parties, dinner parties, afternoon barbecues or quiet family time. The greatest compliment is to have guests comment that they feel as if they are visiting a resort. Having a clear theme in mind when designing the landscape and garden is well advised. Some common themes include tropical paradise, desert oasis, north woods retreat, English country garden, Symmetrical Zen inspiration or an eclectic mix of garden features drawn from several themes.

I prefer the tropical theme but with a few elements drawn from the others for effect. Medium sized trees and shrubs such as Japanese maples, tiger eye sumacs, magnolias, dogwoods and smoke bushes provide a very lush, multi-coloured backdrop for any setting; tall ornamental grasses can create an effective privacy screen and mimic a kind of bamboo forest look. The odd succulent adds a desert quality; yuccas, for example will grow anywhere. Honey suckle, trumpet vine, climbing roses, bougainvillea (in hotter climates) or simple ivy can be grown on a fence, or other garden feature such as a trellis, arbor or pagoda. If space permits, add a garden bench or swing along a pathway. Next,

I am also a big fan of natural stone and rock. River rock makes an excellent border around the pool deck and patio and can be laid out to suggest a rock beach or dry river bed. A grotto appeal can be added by stacking quarry stone slabs to establish a variety of raised garden beds around the pool or patio. Larger rocks and boulders are always eye-catching additions. Whatever style is chosen, there are a few factors to keep in mind: the amount of space available (do not overcrowd the space - remember: less is more), the position and movement of the sun, average rainfall and ease of irrigation if necessary, and of course, the cost.

In conclusion, my definition of an outdoor living area is simply that - my definition. It reflects my personality and my taste. It fulfills the wants and needs of my family and how we want to spend our time out of doors. You may wish to set aside space to accommodate a fire pit area or an ice rink in the winter. Make your outdoor living area what you want it to be. I only hope my views have provided a starting point.

[nativeplantenthusiast]

Replacing Invasives! Native Alternatives for Mimosa trees (Albizia julibrissin).

Mimosa is a beautiful flowering tree that is native to parts of Asia and was first introduced to the United States back in 1745. (Source 1) This tree species has been widely used as an ornamental along roads and in people’s yards since its introduction and today it is still sold and planted for its showy pink flowers that bloom during the summer months.  Typically, this species is seen in more southern states, but it can still be found all the way into southern Maine!  Looking at this tree it is no wonder why it is planted for ornamental purposes, however, it is listed as serious threat in most of the states that it thrives in.  

 Some may find it hard to consider a simple and beautiful flowering tree as a threat to anything other than a small plant trying to grow in its shadow, but let it be known for those who are not aware, invasive species are a real threat to the ecology of this country and the world. That may sound hard to believe and a little over exaggerated but the Mimosa along with many other non-native invasive species, are taking over and causing damage to ecosystems all across the U.S.  This is simply my opinion on the subject, if you go to the Department of the Interior’s website they have a large amount of effort being put into the slow down and removal of invasive species in this country. https://www.doi.gov/invasivespecies  

 Dealing with these already established invasive plants requires two major factors, that being money and man hours.  Unfortunately, we find that with most of the high-level threat invasives that they are too strong of a competitor and push out all but other invasive species from our local ecosystems.  I have personally had multiple jobs working in invasive plant removal and hold a degree in environmental science, so you can trust me on this too.  When removing a Mimosa tree, first there are usually a large stand of them in most areas you would find them, you will take a machete most likely and hack vertical slashes into the trunk at an angle all around the base.  The next step is to use a somewhat high concentration of glyphosate (about 5-10% for larger trees) in a mixture with water and spray that into the hacks made in the tree.  Please do not simply try this at home, I am summarizing the techniques used by licensed pesticide applicators.  The goal is to cut into the tissue of the plant that transfers water and nutrients (the xylem and phloem) to spread the herbicide through the whole plant to kill it entirely.  Other options are to simply chainsaw it down at the base and spray the herbicide on the stump or to spray a less concentrated mixture on the leaves of young plants.  

 Regardless of whether or not you have Mimosa planted on your property, we could all do a big service to our local ecosystem by planting native species instead of non-native ones.  Not only does the spread of native species help the local environment, but these species are specifically adapted to live in the areas you are planting them in.  That usually means less watering and maintenance in order to keep them happy and healthy, along with better survival through the cold/heat!  You can look to see if your state, local national park, nursery, or neighbor knows of any native replacements for the non-native species you grow or typically see around.  

The Georgia Exotic Pest Plant Council has a large list of native replacements for the Mimosa and other invasive tree species such as: Red Maple (Acer rubrum), Serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea), Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia), and many more!  

In my experience when you look into what native species you could grow you would be shocked to find that some of the most beautiful plants are growing so close to you!  I love finding out that plants most people call weeds and run over on their lawnmowers are actually some of my new favorite plants to grow!  If you want to know more or want to share pictures from your gardens feel free to message me and we can talk about plants!

Source 1- https://www.gainvasives.org/species/Albizia-julibrissin/

https://www.nps.gov/depo/learn/nature/invasives.htm

[carnegiemuseumnaturalhistory]

A Pittsburgher Undertaking Native Tree, Shrub, and Forest Restoration on a Small Budget

Our guest blogger notes that he has no formal training in gardening or botany which perhaps makes this an even more inspiring story. In the past two years this one individual (with the help of a friend) has planted 1,500 native trees and shrubs as well as numerous native forbs on about 15 acres of his own property and that of willing neighbors. His goal is to attract pollinators such as native songbirds, butterflies, moths, and other insects. His plans include planting at least 500 more native trees and shrubs each upcoming year. We invited him to share his experience, written in his own words, on this ambitious endeavor as part of a blog series inspired by our new exhibition We are Nature: Living in the Anthropocene.

Motivation

My parents taught me bird watching starting from my preteens. I finally saw my first pileated woodpecker (Brookgreen Gardens, South Carolina) at age 14. Canoeing through the Okefenokee swamp in southern Georgia/northern Florida in the spring, we would see brilliant yellow/orange-ish prothonotary warblers flitting some 20 feet away among the knees of towering cypress trees and also the flocks of honking sandhill cranes overhead. One of my daughter’s middle names is Dendroica for the warblers. The other daughter is named after the tallest tree species (if I am pressed, I am not sure if it is for giganteum or sempervirens; my father calls her “little twig”). And my son is named after the last name of the most famous modern biologist. This project for me is about giving back. I am no expert about what I am contributing here. I welcome corrections and comments. The other motivation is that this project is doable with not much money, and anyone could do this. If you do not have the land, find a willing neighbor/friend who does, and start planting natives and removing invasive plants on their property.

Pittsburgh and Western Pennsylvania

Pittsburgh and Western Pennsylvania are marvelous ecological areas and the birth areas of noted environmentalists such as Rachel Carson and Edward Abbey. We get plenty of rain, even in the summer, which means we do not have the droughts observed in other parts of the country. Western Pennsylvania is riddled with creeks, which are ample places to plant native trees and shrubs that will never have to be watered as the creek riparian zone will take care of them. We also have clay soil (I know I will swear about the slate rocks when digging holes with a posthole digger by hand), which holds moisture and minerals. Lots of things can grow here. Because of topography, there are many places where houses cannot be built, so there is ample space for native trees, shrubs, and wildflowers.

Pittsburgh National Park

We can think of Pittsburgh as “Pittsburgh National Park,” and the city already supports a huge biomass of bird populations such as the thousands and thousands of crows wintering here each year. If we would just plant lots and lots of flowering trees such as the dogwoods and redbuds and hawthorns and shrubs such as northern bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica), we could increase the habitat to attract more beautiful songbirds such as rose-breasted grosbeaks, cedar waxwings and scarlet tanagers to spend more of their time here. I grew up in the Piedmont area of North Carolina, and every spring we would be greeted with the explosions of the dogwoods and redbuds that are endemic in the woods. The same could be done here with our hillsides that are refractory to building houses but not to populating them with dogwoods, redbuds, serviceberries, and hawthorns.

Growing native plants in large clusters

I am no expert on native plants and have consulted with many people as well as just Googled information. Somewhere I had read of a research study in which the authors determined that the planting of 250 wild flowers of one species was necessary to get another butterfly species to appear. A guiding principle is to identify multiple high wildlife value specimens, and then plant lots and lots of each of those species. (I should note that most wildlife management principles state that diversity is better than lots of one species; in my case I am promoting clusters of diversity). If we all wanted to purchase watermelons, but the markets would only keep a few in stock, we would eventually stop making plans to go to a market with the purpose to get a watermelon. And if a bird encounters not one serviceberry tree, but instead a forest of 300 serviceberry trees, we may instead have enticed a flock of these birds. For example, I have observed a flock of cedar waxwings rushing back and forth among a cluster of black cherry trees to eat the fruit. A solitary tree would get less activity. With sufficient establishment of native trees, shrubs, and wildflowers, we may entice birds to nest in the area. The Powdermill Nature Reserve (part of Carnegie Museum of Natural History) Bird Banding project has documented the precipitous decline of songbirds, with some declines as much as 70 percent over the last 50 years. We can repopulate our yards and our woods and our cliffs along the rivers and highways with native species that will restore habitats and help stabilize the populations of the songbirds that are left and perhaps even help grow them. 

Early in this project I was fortunate to get a state of Pennsylvania biologist on the phone, and he emphasized that I should concentrate on plant species that use lots of water as these species will generate lots of biomass. With the drainage creek behind by house, I am inspired to plant along its sides every step of its 1000 feet. I am on 2 acres plus. I also have multiple agreeable neighbors on similar or larger acreages, and all these neighbors have acres of woods that they leave alone and have allowed me to remove the invasive trees, shrubs, and grasses and plant the hundreds of native trees, shrubs, and forbs. I am inspired by the biologist at Indiana University who mowed an old overgrown field in Bald Eagle State Park to set back succession to an earlier stage of growth. The mowing was done in wide strips so that as those areas grew back they could mow additional areas. In the following spring he was able to observe several pairs of nesting golden winged warblers, a songbird species that has had a precipice decline in the last 50 years. While I do not expect such spectacular success, one can use the Allegheny County population data from eBird to gauge which songbird species we may be able to attract to nest in the area. In the woods behind my house, I have seen wood thrushes and hooded warblers sporadically each year. Perhaps the growing of a smorgasbord of native trees,  shrubs, and forbs will entice them to lengthen their stays. 

Bambi

One white tailed deer consumes 200 pounds of leaves and twig matter each month, roughly a ton per year. Typically, when one sees one Bambi, there are another 4 browsing within 50 feet, which is the equivalent of 5 tons of leaf and twig destruction each year. As a gardener, I think of Bambi as rats with long legs. While Bambi has evolved to eat everything, they have yet to develop a taste to eat galvanized steel. For this reason, metal cages are used to protect any plant at risk for Bambi. We have made metal cages from half inch mesh hardware cloth, chicken wire and 16 gauge welded wire fencing. Cages range from 1 foot high to 2 foot high, to 3 foot high to 6 foot high with diameters of 6 inches (18 inch linear fencing made into a cylinder) and 8 inches (24 inch linear fencing made into a cylinder). I am not planning to remove the cages. If I had more funds, the cages would be typically 8 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet in diameter as is done at the Pittsburgh Botanical Gardens as well as at Nine Mile Run in Frick Park. 

507 trees and shrubs planted in November 2017 

In November 2017, we planted

100 northern bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica) seedlings, one to two feet in lengths (www.coldstreamfarm.net)

100 Norway spruce (although it is not a native, Norway spruce is recommended by the Penn State Extension, and I hope to someday attract crossbills which also fly over to Norway) four-year transplants, 12-15 inches in height with 12-15 inch long roots (Mussers Nursery, Indiana County, PA)

100 red-twig dogwood (Cornus sericea; www.coldstreamfarm.net) two to three foot in length seedlings

102 two to three foot long pagoda dogwood stakes (Cornus alternifolia; www.wholesalenurseryco.com/product/pagoda-dogwood-stakes/)

100 eastern white pine four-year transplants, 12-15 inches in height with 12-15 inch long roots from Mussers 

5 black willows from Mussers

Soon after planting, 4 inch by 6 inch rectangles of paper were folded over and then stapled in place over the terminal buds of the white pines to protect them from winter browsing by the deer 

In spring 2017, I got 300 six-year eastern white pine transplants (Mussers Nursery) that had roots of 2 feet in length. It took me multiple weekends and after work hours that spring to manually posthole the holes for these six-year transplants.  Rotting in the basement while waiting to be planted, at least 100 trees did not survive the planting process/the summer. 

I learned my lesson. I purchased a gas-powered auger with a 6-inch diameter by 30 inch long bit from Home Depot online. The 6-inch bit is much easier to dig with than the 8-inch bit. My volunteer and I and the gas-powered auger were able to dig over 100 30-inch deep, 6-inch diameter holes in just a couple of hours. This time we got four-year white pine transplants with only 15-inch length roots and planted them the same day we picked them up. The eastern white pines will grow to 100 feet and the spruce trees should grow to 50 to 75 feet. It is like planting an ‘instant forest’.  Half inch mesh two-foot hardware cloth cut into two foot sections to prepare cylindrical cages were used to protect the red-twig dogwood seedlings. Each cage was buried about 4 to 6 inches to prevent deer and weather from knocking over the cage.  I purchased 4 rolls of 100 feet by 6 feet of 14 gauge welded wire fence (Deacero Steel Field Fence 6 ft. H x 100 ft. L (7745)) from Ace Hardware, and what with shipping cost a total of about $500. We made 50 cages from each roll using tin-snips.  102 cages were used for the planting of the pagoda dogwood cuttings. About 12 inches of these 6 foot cages were submerged into the hole to prevent deer and weather from knocking them over. Native dogwoods other than the common flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) were chosen because of the flowering dogwood’s predilection for Anthracnose, a fungal infection that can make the tree look ugly and potentially die. The pagoda dogwoods were planted in moist soils, and the tall cages should protect them from the deer and allow the dogwood to eventually achieve 20 foot heights. 

The costs for planting in November 2017 The 100 spruce, 100 white pine and 5 black willows from Mussers cost $341 plus the cost of gas driving to pick them up. The 100 red-twig dogwood ($146 plus shipping) and the northern bayberry ($172 shipping included) were from Cold Stream Farm. The 102 pagoda dogwood stakes shipped from a Tennessee wholesale nursery were $187. The 200 foot of 2 foot hardware cloth to make the 100 cages for the red-twig dogwoods was about $140. And the pagoda dogwood cages cost about $250. 

So the cost of planting 507 trees and shrubs was about $1250 or about $2.50 total per plant which overall is economical. Labor is considered to be voluntary and is not included in these calculations. On the other hand, I am still living in my old unfixed house with my ancient toilets of which one takes 20 seconds to flush and is relegated only to flushing liquids. In 2015 when I got the house, I had repair insurance for the first year though I was unable to convince a plumber that a toilet that took 20 seconds to flush needed to be replaced under that home repair insurance plan. My skimping on fixing my old house allows me the funds to plant a forest that will live for ages. 

Invasive plant garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata) removal With garlic mustard, I like to pull the first years of this biennial plant whereas others suggest pulling the second year flowers and leaving them to dry and die and decompose. Rosettes are hand pulled and can be left to dry out and die. First year plants including the entire root can be pulled after rains that softened up the grounds. The removed plants are placed in the crooks of tree branches to allow the garlic mustard to dry out and die and decompose.  

Example future project: American woodcock project One section of the woods is fairly open with a couple of acres of privet with moist soil and the idea is to replace the privet with alder (300 alder seedlings can be purchased from Mussers Nursery for $150 total) to improve the area to possibly attract woodcock so that the birds have space for their mating dances and space to look for earthworms. We have a heavy duty hand weedy-shrub pulling device (Pullerbear) which can be used to pull invasive shrubs such as privet, multiflora rose, and Japanese barberry out of the ground.  

Some sources of information on the web 

Landscaping for Birds - A go to website from Cornell Ornithology.  I use this website to help decide which classes of trees and shrubs to plant in mass. 

Beechwood Farms - Audubon Society of Western Pennsylvania. Beechwood Farms has an excellent native plant nursery. 

eBird - (dates and populations and locations) of birds in Allegheny County from ebird.  

PSU Extension Lawn Alternatives - One of many excellent sites from Penn State Extension. 

Garden Planner Dripworks - Where I get my drip irrigation supplies. 

Prairie Moon - This is where I purchase about a hundred-dollars of native forbs and shrub seeds each January. 

Howard Nursery - Inexpensive trees and shrubs that can be ordered each January through early March from Howard Nursery. Presently have been getting grey dogwood and smooth alder seedlings from them. Recommended to order in January as soon as the website opens as they run out. 

Musser Forests - Mussers Tree Nursery. Being only about a 75-minute drive from Pittsburgh. 

Cold Stream - Cold Stream Farm wholesale nursery. Relatively inexpensive source for northern bayberry, dogwood shrubs, buttonbush seedlings and more. 

Audubon Native Plants - Audubon native plants database. For each plant, there is a listing of which native birds are attracted. 

Wildflower - Wildflower database

This blog series depicts Pittsburghers and their commitment to improving the local environment to celebrate our new exhibition, We are Nature: Living in the Anthropocene. Each blog features a new individual and explains the ways in which they are helping in areas of sustainability, conservation, restoration, and climate change. This blog was written in the author’s own words. Any opinions in this blog are the author’s own and do not necessarily represent that of the museum. 

[theoasismidnightbroadcast]

New cryptid:

Dogwood tree.

In the local oak forest there is a pagoda dogwood tree. It’s stout and gnarled with a bounty of green branches, like an old woman hiding beneath a huge hat.

The dogwood tree is far off the main path on a trail that forks northward. Hikers complain about the heavy animal smell that haunts the tree, and so the northern trail is mostly overgrown. The only hikers that ever find their way there are the ones with large dogs.

Every dog that passes marks the tree. They return again and again. And again. Walks turn into runs turn into sprints toward the forest, owners digging in heels, slipping in the mud trying to oppose the tree’s pull. Small dogs are scooped up and carried home howling. Larger dogs break from leashes, pound the earth along the paths the tree’s roots run beneath. Their tracks always halt abruptly at the tree’s base, leashes and collars laying nearby with no sign of the necks they belong to.

The wooden fence on the trail nearby is littered with rain-wet posters: “lost dog,” “reward,” “please call.”

In the night there are howls from the woods. For every dog gone, a new knot in the dogwood tree.

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