#Nomos Ludwig
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#Nomos#Nomos Ludwig#Nomos Sondermodell Ludwig - 375 Jahre Westfälischer Friede#Nomos Ludwig Sondermodell#Westfälischer Friede
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Chubby transgender femme top needs watch, she just got a new job as a banker and wants to look like she belongs there, what watch should she wear? She also does BDSM if that helps.
Banking? Ooh, I hope there’s some budget to play with in this one. I wish beautiful watches were affordable to everyone but until the revolution I am mostly just saying the words Seiko and Timex to people. So let’s make the world worse and flex on the poors. My budget option is $1000 and it’s this Baltic Aquascaphe GMT (for making deals with Hong Kong on time) in grey and blue (to symbolise the rain and concrete of our great financial centres):
You might find a diver a bit ostentatious, though, so let’s go full conservative for the next one, a Nomos Ludwig 38. This will pass muster at the most hidebound institutions in the world:
Maximum money bracket: get a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date or Master:
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QUARANTINE TIME IS READING TIME. EMERGE less ignorant.
Books/Essays, Theory:
Karl Marx- Friedrich EngelsCommunist Manifesto(Fundamental piece for the social sciences, social movements of the 19/20/21 centuries
Karl Marx-The british rule in Indiahttps://www.marxists.org/archive/marx/works/1853/06/25.htm
Sohrab Sepehri - The oasis of now.
Peter Sloterdijk - After God
Antonio Gramsci-gramsci-prison-notebooks-vol1
Secondary literature on Gramsci'sConception of Hegemony Gramsci
Hegel, Nietzsche, Freud-Hegel, Nietzsche and Freud on Madness and the Unconscious
Foucault-The Essential Works of Foucault, 1954-1984, Vol. 3) Michel Foucault, James D. Faubion, Robert Hurley, Colin Gordon, Paul Rabinow-Essential Works of Foucault 1954-1984 Volume 3_ Power-The New Press (2
Zygmunt Bauman-(Themes for the 21st Century Series) Zygmunt Bauman-Globalization_ The Human Consequences-Polity Press (1998)
Hannah Arendt-Arendt-Eichmann-in-Jerusalem
Giorgia Agamben and Walter Benjamin-Bare-Life-and-Historical-Materialism-in-Agamben-and-Benjamin
Rainer Maria Rilke - Letters to a young poet
Rainer Maria Rilke - Stundenglas
Walter Benjamin-The reproduction of the artwork in the 21. century
Guy Debord-Society of the spectacle
Carl Schmitt- Carl Schmitt-The Nomos of the Earth -Telos Press Publishing (2006)
Carl_Schmitt_The_Concept_of_the_Political_Expanded_Edition____2007
Heinrich von Kleist - Penthesilea
Stefan Zweig - Magellan
Luis Borges - the Library of Babel
Renzo Novatore - Towards the Creative Nothing
Renzo Novatore - in the circle of life.
Friedrich Nietzsche-Genealogy of morals
Friedrich Nietzsche-Friedrich_Nietzsche - Human_All_Too_Human_A_Book_for_Free_Spirits_(1996)
Friedrich Nietzsche - Nietzsches critique on religion
Kenneth Waltz-Kenneth N. Waltz-Man, the State and War-Columbia University Press (2001)
Lucien van der WaalLucien Van Der Walt and Michael Schmidt Black Flame vol 1
Eduardo Galeano - Open_Veins_of_Latin_America
Wolfi Landstreicher-wolfi-landstreicher-critical-thinking-as-an-anarchist-weapon
Wolfi Landstreicher- wolfi-landstreicher-the-network-of-domination
Ludwig Feuerbach-Ludwig Feuerbach's conception of the religious alienation of man and Mikhail Bakunin'sphilosophy of negation
Emma Goldman - philosophy of atheism
Voegelin - on modern gnosticism
#nietzsche#corona#quarantine#reading#reading list#Foucault#Emma Goldman#Rainer Maria Rilke#agamben#Carl Schmitt#Walter Benjamin#Hannah Arendt
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Raffi Boyadjian | Chrono24 Buyer’s Guide: NOMOS Tetra
The word tetra is Greek for “four,” and the eponymous NOMOS collection certainly lives up to its name. Every Tetra watch boasts a characteristic square case. The angular case is softened by a bright range of dial colors. NOMOS has periodically added new colors to the collection since its introduction in 2007. Highlights of the series include the Tetra Neomatik and the Symphony line, which was released in 2020 in honor of what would have been Ludwig van Beethoven’s 250th birthday.
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WORN&WOUND: First Look at the Nomos Duo Collection, the German Favorite’s Newest Entry-Level Watches
The four core Nomos models have been updated ever so slightly as part of this year’s Baselworld release slate. While it would be easy to dismiss these new versions of the Orion, Tetra, Tangente, and Ludwig as simply smaller versions meant to appeal to women, there are interesting things happening here from a design perspective that warrant a closer look...
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NOMOS GLASHÜTTE CLUB SPORT NEOMATIK 42 DATE BLUE
The NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik 42 date blue is the brand’s latest divers’ watch. Sporting a blue dial and equipped with a sumptuous bracelet, this new reference looks different from its forebears whilst remaining unequivocally a NOMOS. Angus Davies provides an insight into the brand and goes on to describe what makes this watch wonderful.
The start of my romance
In the traditional world of watchmaking, several brands have been in operation for over 100 years. Indeed, the history of some brands exceeds 200 years. NOMOS Glashütte, on the other hand, was founded in 1990, just over 30 years ago, making it relatively young by comparison. However, despite its youth and modest origins, the company has since become ‘the largest manufacturer of mechanical timepieces in Germany’. So, what is the secret to the brand’s rapid ascent and remarkable growth? Allow me to explain.
My romance with NOMOS began in 2011. Whilst attending an exhibition, I discovered the brand for the first time and I recall being immediately smitten. Each model I appraised between forefinger and thumb was beautifully understated and endowed with a pristine white dial. Moreover, unlike many of the German firm’s rivals which often used third party movements, the NOMOS models on display were fitted with the brand’s own in-house movements. And then, there was the matter of value. The watch firm from Saxony was offering beautiful timepieces for remarkably keen prices.
Commentators at the time talked at length about the brand’s predilection for Bauhaus design. However, the composition of each watch also subscribed to the traditions of the Deutscher Werkbund. This latter movement harks back to 1907. It united craftspeople, artisans and architects in the pursuit of one common objective, namely, combining good design and craftsmanship when making mass produced goods and architectural structures.
Such was my affection for NOMOS and its products, I brought them to the attention of my wife and daughter. When their respective birthdays arrived, I duly gave them a Tangente model each. On a couple of occasions, I have purchased a replacement strap for each watch, but otherwise, they have never missed a beat, serving both my wife and daughter admirably.
Design
NOMOS is known for producing watches that successfully blend form and function. Indeed, part of the attraction of models such as the Ludwig, the Orion and the Tangente is that they eschew any unnecessary adornments, conversing with the wearer with a highly intelligible voice.
However, perhaps wishing to avoid being typecast, NOMOS has also unveiled new models which look different from their forebears. The Lambda and Lux, housed in gold cases, feature high-end finishing and even have some hand engraving adorning their balance cocks. With the advent of these models, NOMOS informed the watch collecting community that it was not limited to making just one genre of watch, but potentially several.
In 2014, NOMOS unveiled the Metro Date Power Reserve, a watch style conceived by external designer, Mark Braun. Again, it was different from its siblings, courtesy of the judicious inclusion of white, red, black and mint-green hues. On one hand, the Metro looked new, yet it was still recognisable as a NOMOS. In my opinion, this has contributed to the NOMOS success story, ie creating watches that look new, but reassuringly familiar at the same time.
When the first Autobahn left the confines of the company’s Glashütte Manufactory and burst onto the watch scene, I freely admit I was shocked. The model displayed hours, minutes, small seconds and the date. However, with its concave dial and centrally positioned, curved band of colour, the Autobahn was, and remains, radically different from any other watch on the market and yet, somehow it still looks like a NOMOS.
Interestingly, the caliber DUW 6101 is at the heart of the Autobahn, a self-winding movement that is now widely used in numerous references. Ordinarily, the date display on most watches should not be adjusted between 2000 hours – 0300 hours ie a 7-hour window (model dependent). However, with the caliber DUW 6101, there are just 90 minutes each day when the date must not be altered. Moreover, the 3-position crown allows the wearer to rotate it in either direction and perform rapid date changes. As well as the Autobahn neomatik, the caliber DUW 6101 also features in the Ludwig neomatik and Tangente 41 Update. Both of these latter models also feature a date display, albeit they are presented in different forms. The date disc is positioned to the outer edge of the movement and, in turn, the outside edge of the dial. This has allowed NOMOS to include a larger than normal date display, augmenting readability.
In recent years, NOMOS Glashütte has changed the perception of the watch-buying public. No longer is the company viewed solely as a purveyor of monochrome designs. Today, the German marque is also a keen advocate of ebullient shades, sometimes adding liberal splashes of luminescent treatment to a dial design, proffering extra eye-appeal and lucidity. Moreover, the Saxony-based firm has been willing to play with contours, placing indications in non-standard locations.
Quite simply, NOMOS is a multi-talented company that can play many roles with aplomb. Indeed, its design prowess has been recognised on several occasions with the award of many prizes and silverware.
Club Sport neomatik 42 Date Black
When NOMOS Glashütte released the Club Sport Neomatik 42 date black, again I was surprised. Save for the Tangente Sport, most versions of the Tangente have tended to look lean, somewhat dressy and are usually water-resistant to 3 ATM. The Club Sport Neomatik 42 date black sets aside the stylised Arabic numerals of the Tangente, still exhibits a degree of formality, albeit it’s more lounge suit than black tie, and, most notably, it’s water-resistant to 30 ATM.
The dial of the neomatik 42 date black is dressed in a brooding, sultry shade of black, the polar opposite of the chaste-white complexion synonymous with Tangente ownership. Furthermore, the Horween Shell Cordovan strap that’s extensively used by the brand is supplanted with a new metal bracelet.
Some time after its release, my colleague, Mark McArthur Christie, wrote extensively about this watch. In his feature it was clear he felt genuine affection for the model.
Now, the German marque is back with another new reference, the NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik 42 date blue. Recently, I was provided with a sample of the model and had the opportunity to get hands-on.
Club Sport neomatik 42 Date Blue – the dial
Many watch brands release ‘animations’ of existing models. A simple change of dial colour and ‘voila’, a new reference. Well, as its name implies, this latest model from NOMOS has a blue dial, however, it brings much more to the table than this may imply. Allow me to elaborate.
Like the Club Sport Neomatik 42 date black, the hands are broad and lined with luminescent treatment. The hour track features a combination of plump Arabic numerals and crisp rectangular batons. Consistent with the hour and minute hands, the hour markers have also received a liberal application of Super-LumiNova. A minuterie sits just beyond the hour track, hugging the interior walls of the case. NOMOS has employed a combination of svelte white strokes marking each minute, while Arabic numerals, in a two-digit format, are presented at 5-minute intervals.
A snailed, recessed subdial, sits at 6 o’clock while a date display is located at 3 o’clock. With many watch brands the ‘bean-counters’ dictate that one date disc should fit all. However, NOMOS has clearly rejected such penny-pinching, choosing to match the date disc with the colour of the dial as horological etiquette dictates. Moreover, the scale of the date display would rival some so-called ‘big date’ displays which utilise two date discs. Indeed, the readability of the date on this latest model is beyond reproach.
Unlike Club Sport neomatik 42 date black, the dial on this version is endowed with a prominent sunburst motif. In my opinion, this provides an additional dose of elegance to proceedings.
Club Sport neomatik 42 Date Blue – the case
Measuring 42mm in diameter, the NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik 42 date blue has presence but without being cumbersome. There are watches on the market which have greater water-resistance, but invariably they come with additional bulk. An attribute of the NOMOS is that its construction and water-resistance of 30 ATM confer a high degree of robustness and practicality whilst remaining genteel and tasteful.
A significant improvement found with this model is the introduction of a new 3-rows bracelet. The German firm has juxtaposed polished and brushed surfaces throughout the case, extending this approach to the bracelet as well. The central row evinces a brilliantly polished gleam, heightening the overall sense of luxury.
I found some of the early NOMOS bracelets a tad fiddly to put on and adjust, however, no such criticisms can be directed towards this latest model. It’s fitted with a twin-blade deployant and the clasp closes with a reassuringly positive click.
The crown is equipped with a wonderful detail. When it is pulled out, for example when changing the date, a red circlet comes into view, reminding the wearer to push the crown home afterwards in order to prevent ingress of dust and moisture. The brand from Saxony always seems to pay close attention to the minutiae.
To the rear of the watch, the caseback is equipped with a pane of sapphire crystal, affording views of the self-winding movement.
Club Sport neomatik 42 Date Blue – the movement
This latest model is fitted with the Caliber DUW 6101, a self-winding movement that appears in several of the brand’s models. As stated earlier, this is an in-house movement featuring the brand’s neomatic date mechanism. The system allows the wearer to rotate the crown in either direction and make rapid date changes.
Upholding Glashütte tradition, the movement features a three-quarter plate. This approach confers greater stability when contrasted with multiple bridges. In a similar vein, the NOMOS features a balance bridge, secured at two points, rather than a balance cock retained with just one screw.
The three-quarter plate and balance bridge are rhodium-plated and adorned with Glashütte ribbing. They also feature golden text and thermally blued screws, while the mainplate is embellished with perlage.
An interesting characteristic of the Caliber DUW 6101 is its slender profile, measuring just 3.6mm in height, affording the brand more options when incorporating it within other watch designs. Indeed, by using the same movement in several references, NOMOS is able to achieve economies of scale, allowing the firm to deliver an impressive quality-price ratio.
Throughout its history, NOMOS has strived to be increasingly independent. In 2014, the German brand unveiled the Metro, powered with a movement containing the NOMOS ‘swing system’. This latter term is used to describe the escapement or assortment. This mechanism controls the flow of time, releasing precise doses of energy to the gear train and ultimately the motion works.
Most companies purchase escapements from third-party specialists, however, NOMOS chose to embark on a difficult journey by creating its own ‘swing system’. One of the most challenging components to make is the balance spring as it must deliver rate consistency and remain unaffected by temperature changes. When making balance springs, the tolerances are measured in nanometers (1nm = 0.000001mm). Needless to say, production processes must be strictly controlled.
Moreover, the balance spring has to work in empathy with the balance wheel, hence the technical challenges don’t simply end with the balance spring. Indeed, every element of the swing system has to be carefully considered and designed to work in harmony.
Another factor that contributes to the overall slenderness of the Caliber DUW 6101 is the design of the gear train. When it developed this movement, NOMOS looked closely at the various movement components, including the gear train. Comprised of several wheels, the gear train transfers energy from the spring barrel to the escapement. Most gear trains are not very efficient. Indeed, the industry average is approximately 80% efficiency. In order to compensate for this loss of power, the norm is to equip the movement with a larger barrel, however, this makes the movement bigger.
NOMOS expended much effort looking at the order, angle and number of teeth on each wheel of the gear train, keen to improve its efficiency. Ultimately, the brand’s work led to a gear train efficiency of 94.2%. This allowed the brand to fit a smaller barrel and, by default, reduce the height of the movement. While the NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik 42 date blue is hardly ultra-thin, measuring 10.2mm in height, the slender profile of the Caliber DUW 6101 makes the movement suitable for use in a number of watches, including some of the brand’s slimmer timepieces.
Closing remarks
In recent years, NOMOS has shown a desire to explore its creativity, unveiling new designs which often incorporate delightful idiosyncratic details. However, despite sometimes embracing avant-garde styles and playfully employing vibrant shades, the German firm cleverly innovates new models which still retain a family likeness.
Irrespective of the model selected, all NOMOS timepieces exhibit notable style, the dials clearly enunciate the time and each movement is always endued with a high level of mechanical integrity. While NOMOS makes a number of different calibres, it has incorporated the Caliber DUW 6101 within several references and I suspect this is one reason why the brand delivers an impressive quality-price ratio.
Prior to receiving the sample of the NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik 42 date blue, I always suspected that I would like it, however, I didn’t expect it to look or feel any different from the Club Sport Neomatik 42 date black I had already worn. But it does. Indeed, the blue dial with its sunray motif and the fabulous three-rows bracelet confers a different appearance yet still looks reassuringly like a NOMOS.
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Introducing new versions of iconic watches. First presented at Baselworld 2018, NOMOS Glashütte’s new neomatik date caliber DUW 610 provided the perfect opportunity to update some beloved timepieces from the brand’s collection. The popular Tangente, Orion and Ludwig now feature subtle and not- See more: https://gessato.design/2kbN9LH
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#NOMOS #Glashuette Ludwig with brown #Horween shell cordovan strap. . We are one of the first independant authorized dealer of #nomosglashutte watches in #SanDiego They can be purchased on our webstore (link in bio) or in our #SanDiego #Hillcrest #NorthPark showroom (By appointment only) WWW.GENTLEMENSFOOTWEAR.COM #nomosglashuette #nomosludwig #hodinkee #qualitywatches #menswear #madeinglashuette #madeingermany🇩🇪 (at Gentlemens Footwear)
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WORN&WOUND: Nomos Ludwig Timeless Edition Review
I’ll admit that I never paid much attention to the Nomos Ludwig. It’s always been there—in fact, it was one of their first models—but it just never caught my eye. Nomos is a brand I associate with Bauhaus sensibilities and a flair for contemporary design, unique color combinations, and a playfulness that is lacking from most other brands entirely. The Ludwig, with its Roman numerals and railroad index, is austere and, dare I say, classical. Now, having spent some time with one, I can say that it’s those very elements mixed with Nomos’ practiced use of restraint that make it so refreshing and successful...
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^@!^ NOMOS Ludwig 32937 Small seconds Silver Dial Hand Winding Men's Watch_546406 https://ift.tt/2AHxyz1
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Nomos Ludwig Sondereditionen mit einer Premiere
Nomos feiert 175 Jahre Uhrmacherei in Glashütte mit drei auf je 175 limitierten Sonderauflagen des Uhrenklassikers Nomos Ludwig und einer Premiere.
Gleich drei limitierte Versionen seines Klassikers „Ludwig“ widmet Nomos diesem Jubiläum: römische Ziffern, feine Indizes, eine Eisenbahn-Minuterie (was im französischen Uhren-Jargon als „Chemin de fer“ noch eleganter klingt), und das alles im…
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METRO NEOMATIK 41 UPDATE – A LESSON IN DESIGN FROM NOMOS GLASHÜTTE
The Metro neomatik 41 Update was unveiled by NOMOS Glashütte earlier this year. It shares many characteristics with the brand’s Tangente neomatik 41 Update. However, the newer watch incorporates many of the design codes found on earlier Metro models, all of which have been styled by Mark Braun. Angus Davies looks closely at the composition of this latest addition to the Metro family, paying particular attention to the model’s design.
Introduction – Caliber DUW 6101
In 2018, Nomos Glashütte unveiled a new in-house movement, the Caliber DUW 6101. It has since gone on to prove a resounding success and is now employed in several of the brand’s models
The Caliber DUW 6101 measures just 3.6mm in height and features a date ring positioned towards its outside edge. The date mechanism allows the wearer to adjust the date by turning the crown in either direction, safe in the knowledge that the movement will suffer no harm. Initially, the movement was housed in three models, each blessed with its own distinctive appearance. This horological trio included the Ludwig neomatik 41 date, the Autobahn neomatik 41 date and the Tangente neomatik 41 Update. I will return to the last watch in due course.
Nomos Glashütte has always shown a strong desire to be independent, manifest with the making of its own movements. Furthermore, in 2014, the firm unveiled its own ‘swing system’, a term used to describe the escapement and regulating organ. This represented a huge undertaking, a task most brands choose to outsource to industry specialists. However, Nomos Glashütte, in collaboration with the Technical University of Dresden, embarked on this journey, eager to augment its independence. Several million Euros later, the ‘swing system’ was unveiled to the world and has since been employed throughout the brand’s caliber range.
Keen to make the Caliber DUW 6101 as slender as possible, Nomos Glashütte looked closely at the various movement components, in particular the gear train. Comprised of several wheels, the gear train transfers energy from the spring barrel to the escapement. Most gear trains are not very efficient. Indeed, the industry average is approximately 80% efficiency. In order to compensate for this loss of power, the norm is to equip the movement with a larger barrel, however, this makes the movement bigger. Nomos Glashütte expended much effort looking at the order, angle and number of teeth on each wheel of the gear train, eager to improve its efficiency. The favourable consequence of its endeavours culminated in a gear train efficiency of 94.2%, allowing the brand to fit a smaller barrel and, by default, reduce the height of the movement.
The Caliber DUW 6101 is also a self-winding movement, a characteristic that makes the watch ideal for daily wear. The mainspring within the spring barrel is energised by harnessing power from the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. The system features an oscillating weight that rotates clockwise and counter clockwise, thereby tensioning the mainspring within the barrel.
Most of the mass needed to make the oscillating weight rotate has to be positioned along its outer edge in order to create inertia, making the rotor bulkier at this point. Nomos Glashütte has placed the bulkiest part of the oscillating weight in a ‘trottoir’, a channel that runs around the edge of the movement. By adopting this approach, the depth of the movement is mitigated, again contributing to the overall slenderness of the watch.
The brand from Saxony has also endowed the Caliber DUW 6101 with various additional refinements. Unlike many Swiss movements which are fitted with numerous bridges and cocks, the Caliber DUW 6101 is fitted with a three-quarter plate. This feature is typical of watches made in Saxony. By using one large plate, the movement construction is more stable. In this instance, the three-quarter plate is embellished with a striped decoration termed ‘Glashütte ribbing’. The balance bridge is secured with two screws, again improving stability. There is a profusion of thermally blued screws, typical of fine watchmaking practise and the mainplate is adorned with perlage.
The balance has a frequency of 21,600 vph and the movement is fitted with 27 jewels. Assuming the mainspring is fully-wound, the Caliber DUW 6101 will run autonomously for up to 42 hours.
Tangente neomatik 41 Update
As stated previously, the Caliber DUW 6101 first appeared in the Ludwig neomatik 41 date, the Autobahn neomatik 41 date and the Tangente neomatik 41 Update. Given the date ring is positioned very close to the edge of the movement, the numerals can be made larger, enhancing readability as is the case with the Ludwig and Autobahn models.
However, the Tangente neomatik 41 Update eschews a conventional date display. Indeed, the dial on this model features 31 rectangular apertures with a disc positioned beneath and marked with vibrant red visible via two rectangles. The two brightly coloured rectangles straddle the prevailing date, imparting meaning in an intelligible format. This distinctive indication, the ‘NOMOS ring date’, is patented and contributes to the model’s eye-catching mien.
The inaugural version of the Tangente neomatik 41 Update was endowed with a white silver-plated dial with soupçons of ebullient red adorning the date ring. The model remains a popular member of the brand’s current collection, however, it has since been joined by two additional references. One model features a ruthenium treated dial, again paired with two red date markers. More recently, the German marque unveiled a further variant encompassing new hues. In this instance, the dial is dressed in ‘Midnight Blue’ and supplants the red date markers, found on its sister models, with two green rectangles. Personally, I prefer the initial version, however, I certainly have no aversion to the notion of choice.
Since its inception, Nomos has always had a remarkable talent for design. The Tangente neomatik 41 Update serves to reinforce this reputation. Indeed, the watch won the ‘Challenge Watch Prize’ at the GPHG in 2018 and it has also been the recipient of an iF Design Award and a European Product Design Award.
The Tangente, arguably the brand’s most iconic design, has always conveyed information with notable efficiency. Indeed, the dial of a Tangente expresses meaning in a clear and simple to interpret form. Supremely slender hands point to the hour and minute tracks with laser-like accuracy. The hour markers comprise slim batons for the odd-numbered hours and Arabic numerals for the even-numbered values. These latter numerals are depicted in a unique font conceived by Berlinerblau, the Berlin-based agency for NOMOS Glashütte, where design is a way of life and creativity is omnipresent.
In common with other Tangente models, the round case of the neomatik 41 Update version is juxtaposed with straight perpendicular sides. It is the repeated collocation of curves and straight lines which contributes to the model’s eye-catching aesthetic appearance. The lugs feature a combination of horizontal, angled and vertical lines. Moreover, the lugs have a narrow profile imbuing them with a refined appearance. When affixed to the wrist, the watch sits close to the skin and limbo dances beneath the cuff of a shirt courtesy of its modest case height of just 7.8mm.
Measuring 40.5mm in diameter, the watch feels a smidgen wider than the stated dimensions would suggest. This is because the slender lugs are slightly elongated, making the watch ‘wear larger’.
Blending satin-brushed and polished surfaces often endows a case with tasteful contrast. However, the Tangente neomatik 41 Update employs highly polished surfaces throughout. When I wore this model, I was somewhat surprised as such overt and ubiquitous gleaming can appear a tad garish. However, no such vulgarity afflicts this model, it is a paragon of good taste and elegance.
The Metro model – an external viewpoint
In 2014, Nomos Glashütte unveiled a wholly new watch, the Metro Date Power Reserve. Interestingly, the German firm looked beyond the confines of its Berlin design studios and appointed Mark Braun, an external designer, to help style this new timepiece.
Braun’s body of work is vast and varied. His portfolio includes furniture designs, fountain pens, glassware, jewellery, cutlery and much more. In addition, Braun is a professor in Saarbrücken and the recipient of numerous design awards.
Over the years, I have interviewed several watch designers and have always found them to be fascinating individuals. They seem to have a heightened appreciation for proportions, shapes, textures and light that can’t be learnt purely within the confines of a classroom. Indeed, it is my belief that great designers have an innate talent from a young age that can be honed but never created.
Having appraised many watches, the first Metro model was like a breath of fresh air. Braun’s website would suggest that prior to his relationship with Nomos Glashütte he had not designed many watches. Personally, I view this as a strength because his work did not seem constrained by industry convention. For example, the power-reserve indicator is circular, sidestepping the customary lone-hand and scale combination. The display blends white, red and mint green tones to convey the status of the mainspring. Eminently logical, yet wonderfully original.
Furthermore, the hour and minute hands are not dauphine-style, Breguet-style or baton-type. On the contrary, Braun’s hands are highly original. Slender near the fulcrum of the dial, of uniform width for two-thirds of their length, they then assume a needle-like appearance for the last few millimetres. They are wonderfully stylish but notably readable. Indeed, Braun’s work is not limited to the prepossessing appearance of a product but also encompasses practicality too.
The hours on the Metro model shun the usual Arabic numerals or large batons typically used on watches, just simple dots say it all. Cleverly, the dots encompass mint green and black hues, distinguishing the hours at the cardinal points from those values positioned in between.
There are several Braun touches which I will return to later, save to say his first design was widely recognised for its brilliance. The Metro Date Power Reserve is the recipient of numerous awards, including a Goldene Unruh, an iF Design Award, a German Design Award, a Red Dot, a Good Design and a Green Product Award.
Mark Braun was subsequently tasked with designing further Metro models. To date, he has designed 14 different versions of Metro, including the latest addition to the collection, Metro neomatik 41 Update.
Metro neomatik 41 Update
One glance at Metro neomatik 41 Update from NOMOS Glashütte and the Metro DNA is clear to see. On the other hand, the dial shares some details in common with the aforementioned Tangente neomatik 41 Update. I suspect this was a tough brief for Braun. On one hand, the resultant watch needed to accommodate the patented date ring but, on the other hand, it still had to look like a Metro.
Recently, I reviewed Metro neomatik 41 Update and waxed lyrical about its design as well as its mechanical attributes. However, in this instance, I want to dissect Braun’s design and the model’s habillage (every element of the watch except for the movement).
The date ring, with its patented 31-aperture design and two rectangular shaped dashes of colour, perpetuates the look of the Tangente neomatik 41 Update, albeit in this instance the watch firm has chosen splashes of ‘neon orange’. Likewise, the case of the Metro neomatik 41 Update is highly polished, again, similar to the Tangente. Where the small seconds dial is smooth on the Tangente, the indication on the Metro is snailed.
Once again, Braun has used his distinctive hour and minute hands, a style unique to Metro. The hours are denoted with dots, however, they are now grey throughout. The German designer has differentiated the hours at the cardinal points by making the dots larger.
In common with all Metro models, the sapphire crystal gently arcs above the dial. This creates a wonderful three-dimensional appearance to the display, masterfully playing with depths and endowing the dial with a sublime reciprocity with light.
The fabric strap is affixed to the case with wire-like loop attachments. However, do not misconstrue, the attachments are strong and conjoined with the case in steadfast union. In common with the Tangente neomatik 41 Update, the watch is equipped with an exhibition caseback. The case is slightly deeper than the Tangente, measuring 9.1mm, but compared with most watches it remains slim.
The crown of the Metro neomatik 41 Update features a series of hemispherical dots on its surface, affording grip. Most watch brands favour a fluted design, hence Braun’s approach is refreshingly different. The Metro’s crown is functional, attractive and bestows a wonderful tactility. In my opinion, it is because Braun has not spent years solely designing wristwatches that he brings a freshness to the design process. The crown may be a small detail, but it perfectly illustrates Braun’s painstaking attention to detail.
Closing remarks
Both the Tangente neomatik 41 Update and the Metro neomatik 41 Update are handsome watches. They both present the date in an ingenious, and patented, format. Likewise, both timepieces are equipped with the impressive Caliber DUW 6101 featuring the brand’s in-house swing system and exquisite finishing.
The crown of the Metro neomatik 41 Update features a series of hemispherical dots on its surface, affording grip. Most watch brands favour a fluted design, hence Braun’s approach is refreshingly different. The Metro’s crown is functional, attractive and bestows a wonderful tactility. In my opinion, it is because Braun has not spent years solely designing wristwatches that he brings a freshness to the design process. The crown may be a small detail, but it perfectly illustrates Braun’s painstaking attention to detail.
Closing remarks
Both the Tangente neomatik 41 Update and the Metro neomatik 41 Update are handsome watches. They both present the date in an ingenious, and patented, format. Likewise, both timepieces are equipped with the impressive Caliber DUW 6101 featuring the brand’s in-house swing system and exquisite finishing.
While NOMOS has a talented in-house design department, reinforcing its passion for independence, it has shown the wisdom in occasionally engaging third parties when this yields advancement for the benefit of its clientele.
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The Nomos Tetra Symphony Ode to Joy, Immortal Beloved, Fidelio, Divine Spark – these are the names of the four new versions of Tetra, the classic square watch model from NOMOS Glashütte. A multiple prizewinner and one of the most renowned mechanical watches “Made in Germany,” NOMOS Tetra is now available in four beautiful colours: copper for Tetra Götterfunken (Divine Spark), olive green for Tetra Ode an die Freude (Ode to Joy), turquoise for Tetra Unsterbliche Geliebte (Immortal Beloved), and dark blue for Tetra Fidelio. All four are powered by the NOMOS manual calibre Alpha, the tried-and-tested mechanical movement that powers many of the manual watches from NOMOS Glashütte. It can be seen at work through the sapphire crystal glass backs Together, they make for an exceptionally harmonious quartet. And their names? They pay tribute to a man that—like NOMOS and Glashütte—represents Made in Germany at its best, an obsession with quality, and timeless classics: Ludwig van Beethoven. Fall 2020 will mark the 250th birthday of the renowned classical composer. That means that his compositions are even older than the watchmaking traditions of Glashütte, which will be celebrating their 175th anniversary this year. This is where NOMOS, one of only a handful of owner-operated watchmaking companies worldwide, crafts fine mechanical timepieces. German engineering skill, outstanding product design (in the traditions of Bauhaus and the Deutscher Werkbund), and above all Glashütte watchmaking craftsmanship—thanks to these three aspects, NOMOS watches are of the highest quality in every respect. To date, they have been awarded about 150 prizes for design, quality, and value-for-money. https://www.instagram.com/p/B9MEGIFqBVS/?igshid=1ggn1oqwqq67m
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The essential carry: notebook, pen, and, watch. In this case for me this was a passport notebook in a cover from @themessdeck, @montegrappaitalia fountain pen, and @nomos_glashuette Ludwig watch on a @molequin_ strap. All are sitting atop my @christian_kimber tote from @nomanwalksalone. . . . . . . . . . #themessdeck #leathergoods #leathercraft #passportholder #passportcover #passportwallet #nomos #nomosglashutte #nomosglashütte #nomosludwig #watchporn #watchgame #leatheraccessories #leathercrafted #handcrafted #madeinusa #notebookcover #craftsmanship #artisan #everydaycarry #classicmenswear #elegant #stylishgent #montegrappa #montegrappa_shop #montegrappaitalia #montegrappapen #molequin http://ift.tt/2ifeWgl
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