#Martin Margiela: In His Own Words

[disease]

[zegalba]

'Martin Margiela: In His Own Words' (2019)

Margiela fondly shows the Barbies he had already subconsciously dressed as 'Margiela models' as Many of Margiela's later collections (such as Autumn-Winter 1994-95 and Spring-Summer 1995) were inspired by the wardrobes of Ken, Barbie and G.I. Joe.

[margielarchive]

from Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019) directed by Reiner Holzemer.

[those70scomics]

Fictober Day 5: "it's a new day; let's go"

That '70s Show Fanfiction

Designs were scattered over a table in Jackie's fashion studio. Design assistants, seamstresses, and her personal assistant all hovered nearby. She was in a quandary. Martin Margiela's show in Paris had sent shockwaves through the industry.

Her own Spring/Summer collection for next year had been completed and shown, but the '90s were going to change the culture -- fashion, music, social mores. Jackie felt it in her blood. 1989 was the end of an era, and her next collection needed to move forward, not stagnate.

"We're starting from scratch," she said, and her work team collectively gasped. "The House of Burkhart can't be viewed as a dilapidated relic from this decade. It must represent the future."

"But we've got orders for our Spring collection!" said Eva, her personal assistant.

"I'm rich as hell. I can afford the financial hit."

"And the reputation hit?"

Jackie learned well from high school how reputation operated. "We'll stage a winter fashion show -- "

Sergio, her head design assistant, cupped his forehead. "That's unheard of. The last fashion week of the year has come and gone."

"We'll establish our own. If Margiela can change the paradigm of the industry -- and, trust me, he has, despite the grousing of every other fashion house -- so can we. I want edgy, non-traditional wedding dresses. Ready-to-wear clothes that resemble haute couture. I've heard some great music from the Pacific Northwest thanks to my fiancé. It's not empty-headed and meaningless like hair metal. It had real emotion. We have to capture that spirit."

"You're talking full-on rebellion," said Shaniqua, another design assistant. Unlike Sergio, she was smiling conspiratorially.

Rachel, her apprentice designer, raised her hand. Jackie nodded at her, and she said, "Can you give us, like, a little more direction than words?"

"I can indeed." Jackie hefted one of Steven's duffel bags from beneath the table. Inside were many copies of Nirvana's album Bleach and singles from Mudhoney, Flaming Lips, Tad, the Afghan Whigs, and Mother Love Bone's EP Shine. Her new favorite song was on the EP, "Chloe Dancer/Crown of Thorns". If her next collection could reflect that one and the overall vibe from Bleach, along with influences from the singles, she'd shake up the industry as much as Margiela. Other fashion houses would need to play catch-up. "Your homework is to listen to this music and design."

Her team grabbed CDs from the duffel bag. They seemed confused, and Jackie clapped her hands once. The sound was so loud it echoed off the walls of her studio.

"It's October fifth," she said. "It's a new day; let's go!"

Her team scattered to their work stations, and she put on her headphones. She pressed play on her portable CD player. "Blew" from Bleach blasted her ears, and she began to sketch the House of Burkhart into the next decade.

[fashion-and-film]

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019)

[jeanlouiecastillo]

Crucifix on Margiela book 2021

“Martin Margiela of the 80s and 90s is Jean Louie’s most valued inspiration, held high on a pedestal, on a Biblical level. There was a time he only spoke about Martin Margiela’s genius tendencies, DIY and Tabi Boots. The raw and DIY aesthetics are what lead Castillo to proceed his dreams of becoming a fashion designer. Although Margiela’s garments are made of high quality finishings, Castillo found himself falling deep into void of purposeful imperfections; a world he didn’t realise was allowed in fashion. He found himself loving the ugly and the unconventional - as he should’ve foreseen due to his admiration for Punk music in college, but there was something completely different between Vivienne Westwood’s DIY to Martin Margiela’s DIY.

Castillo lived (lives) for strong aesthetics, one of his peeves in visual creativity are things not aligning or matching in his own desired way, spaces, art, nature, man-made constructions, designs, architecture, words and aesthetics he has no control over. This is the outcome of a person who was raised on Tumblr and Pinterest, or there was something wrong in his childhood that made him need to latch onto a specific style or colour of something. As a child, he was sickeningly possessed by the colour blue; everything had to be blue: the walls, the bed, the clothes, the shoes, accessories, his belongings, and even his food. He even chose Ravenclaw as his Hogwarts House, even though he was an alleged Gryffindor (according to a Buzzfeed Quiz). He grew out of blue in the end.

Unsure of the exact day, Jean Louie found himself collecting things that are black or white. He found symbolism in the shade Black as an act of rebellion against conformity. He was confused why people only wore black at funerals, so he decided everyday is a funeral (for laughs…but seriously, though). He discovered Underground-England and bought 4inch Creepers that he wore to his cousin’s grandmother’s funeral. He felt alive in black.”

[cosmicanger]

from Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019) directed by Reiner Holzemer.

[fashionobsessed3]

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, 2019.

[whiterose90]

I watched Martin Margiela In His Own Words (2019), directed by Reiner Holzemer yesterday, and I really understand now why he's so popular today. He was such an innovative, non-conformist designer. I love the face mask, it dehumanizes his models so much, they just look like plastic mannequins. I also love the Margiela woman, she really gives off something sexy, but not in a vulgar way, more like mysterious.

[thesundaycoffeeclub]

ALD

There are few fashion brands that have risen to the top of pop-cultural attention over the past years: Supreme, Off White, KITH - just to name a few. Another one is Aimé Leon Dore.

ALDs designer Teddy Santis, a very under the radar-kind of guy, has created a community around an independent fashion brand that many big scale brands can only dream of. Since LVMH decided to invest, ALD is very much on the radar of many. The visuals, the models, the fits, the accessoires,… ALD did not pass the vibe check. ALD is the vibe check. To get a better understanding, quickly scroll through their Instagram feed.

In 2019 Vogue’s Senior Fashion News Writer Emily Farra, wrote How Aimé Leon Dore Became the Coolest Store in Nolita and said the following about designer Teddy Santis:

For this article, [Teddy Santis] preferred not to do a “real interview” and asked not to be quoted. I was aware of this request before I met him at the store, but I figured I’d be able to change his mind. In my six years as a writer, I couldn’t remember someone not wanting their name in print. But Santis was only half joking when he said that it seems like most designers just want to be famous these days. He believes some of the best brands are the ones that the designers or founders rarely speak at all. Their faces aren’t all over Instagram; they aren’t releasing a new collaboration every week; and they rarely, if ever, go on the record to talk about their brand. Santis isn’t trying to align himself with the Rei Kawakubos and Martin Margielas of the world, he just understands the power of anonymity.

Farra goes on about the Nolita based flagship store:

[…] The pristine white-painted exterior is a bright spot on a crowded block, with elegant topiaries and planters nestled in front of the shop windows with scalloped awnings. It isn’t what you imagine for a “streetwear brand,” which is the real draw of Aimé Leon Dore. (The name is an amalgamation of the French word for love, Santis’s father’s name, Leon, and his own full name, Theodore.) Inside, there’s a massive rug with two leather couches, where a few customers were hanging out (we visited the store while it was open and most of the guys seemed oblivious to Santis). There are herringbone wood floors, French-inspired crown molding on the walls, marble display tables, custom brass rails. In a word, it’s gorgeous.

Now, Aimé Leon Dore has opened its second flagship store in London. And the location is just b e a u t i f u l.

Watch the reel here.

[stuff-i-watched]

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words / 2019 — IMDb, TMDb

[fashion-and-film]

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019)

[watchingalotofmovies]

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words    [trailer]

Documentary offering a view on Maison Martin Margiela during Martin Margiela's helm.

I very well understand the difference in social approach. Like, treating models as real persons, getting into contact with the audience, etc. But as a layman it's a little difficult to understand the lauded revolutionary approach to fashion by talking heads. Wearability seems to be of an issue, at least during the first few years. He seemed more like a fashion artist. With the focus more on concept than on practical qualities.

His decision to stay anonymous throughout the years is certainly fascinating. A very good approach.