#Martin Margiela: In His Own Words

[disease]

[zegalba]

'Martin Margiela: In His Own Words' (2019)

Margiela fondly shows the Barbies he had already subconsciously dressed as 'Margiela models' as Many of Margiela's later collections (such as Autumn-Winter 1994-95 and Spring-Summer 1995) were inspired by the wardrobes of Ken, Barbie and G.I. Joe.

[shattereddteacup]

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019)

Dir. Reiner Holzemer

Language: English, French

[margielarchive]

from Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019) directed by Reiner Holzemer.

[those70scomics]

Fictober Day 5: "it's a new day; let's go"

That '70s Show Fanfiction

Designs were scattered over a table in Jackie's fashion studio. Design assistants, seamstresses, and her personal assistant all hovered nearby. She was in a quandary. Martin Margiela's show in Paris had sent shockwaves through the industry.

Her own Spring/Summer collection for next year had been completed and shown, but the '90s were going to change the culture -- fashion, music, social mores. Jackie felt it in her blood. 1989 was the end of an era, and her next collection needed to move forward, not stagnate.

"We're starting from scratch," she said, and her work team collectively gasped. "The House of Burkhart can't be viewed as a dilapidated relic from this decade. It must represent the future."

"But we've got orders for our Spring collection!" said Eva, her personal assistant.

"I'm rich as hell. I can afford the financial hit."

"And the reputation hit?"

Jackie learned well from high school how reputation operated. "We'll stage a winter fashion show -- "

Sergio, her head design assistant, cupped his forehead. "That's unheard of. The last fashion week of the year has come and gone."

"We'll establish our own. If Margiela can change the paradigm of the industry -- and, trust me, he has, despite the grousing of every other fashion house -- so can we. I want edgy, non-traditional wedding dresses. Ready-to-wear clothes that resemble haute couture. I've heard some great music from the Pacific Northwest thanks to my fiancé. It's not empty-headed and meaningless like hair metal. It had real emotion. We have to capture that spirit."

"You're talking full-on rebellion," said Shaniqua, another design assistant. Unlike Sergio, she was smiling conspiratorially.

Rachel, her apprentice designer, raised her hand. Jackie nodded at her, and she said, "Can you give us, like, a little more direction than words?"

"I can indeed." Jackie hefted one of Steven's duffel bags from beneath the table. Inside were many copies of Nirvana's album Bleach and singles from Mudhoney, Flaming Lips, Tad, the Afghan Whigs, and Mother Love Bone's EP Shine. Her new favorite song was on the EP, "Chloe Dancer/Crown of Thorns". If her next collection could reflect that one and the overall vibe from Bleach, along with influences from the singles, she'd shake up the industry as much as Margiela. Other fashion houses would need to play catch-up. "Your homework is to listen to this music and design."

Her team grabbed CDs from the duffel bag. They seemed confused, and Jackie clapped her hands once. The sound was so loud it echoed off the walls of her studio.

"It's October fifth," she said. "It's a new day; let's go!"

Her team scattered to their work stations, and she put on her headphones. She pressed play on her portable CD player. "Blew" from Bleach blasted her ears, and she began to sketch the House of Burkhart into the next decade.

[fashion-and-film]

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019)

[jeanlouiecastillo]

Crucifix on Margiela book 2021

“Martin Margiela of the 80s and 90s is Jean Louie’s most valued inspiration, held high on a pedestal, on a Biblical level. There was a time he only spoke about Martin Margiela’s genius tendencies, DIY and Tabi Boots. The raw and DIY aesthetics are what lead Castillo to proceed his dreams of becoming a fashion designer. Although Margiela’s garments are made of high quality finishings, Castillo found himself falling deep into void of purposeful imperfections; a world he didn’t realise was allowed in fashion. He found himself loving the ugly and the unconventional - as he should’ve foreseen due to his admiration for Punk music in college, but there was something completely different between Vivienne Westwood’s DIY to Martin Margiela’s DIY.

Castillo lived (lives) for strong aesthetics, one of his peeves in visual creativity are things not aligning or matching in his own desired way, spaces, art, nature, man-made constructions, designs, architecture, words and aesthetics he has no control over. This is the outcome of a person who was raised on Tumblr and Pinterest, or there was something wrong in his childhood that made him need to latch onto a specific style or colour of something. As a child, he was sickeningly possessed by the colour blue; everything had to be blue: the walls, the bed, the clothes, the shoes, accessories, his belongings, and even his food. He even chose Ravenclaw as his Hogwarts House, even though he was an alleged Gryffindor (according to a Buzzfeed Quiz). He grew out of blue in the end.

Unsure of the exact day, Jean Louie found himself collecting things that are black or white. He found symbolism in the shade Black as an act of rebellion against conformity. He was confused why people only wore black at funerals, so he decided everyday is a funeral (for laughs…but seriously, though). He discovered Underground-England and bought 4inch Creepers that he wore to his cousin’s grandmother’s funeral. He felt alive in black.”

[cosmicanger]

from Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019) directed by Reiner Holzemer.

[fashionobsessed3]

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, 2019.

[whiterose90]

I watched Martin Margiela In His Own Words (2019), directed by Reiner Holzemer yesterday, and I really understand now why he's so popular today. He was such an innovative, non-conformist designer. I love the face mask, it dehumanizes his models so much, they just look like plastic mannequins. I also love the Margiela woman, she really gives off something sexy, but not in a vulgar way, more like mysterious.

[stuff-i-watched]

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words / 2019 — IMDb, TMDb

[watchingalotofmovies]

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words    [trailer]

Documentary offering a view on Maison Martin Margiela during Martin Margiela's helm.

I very well understand the difference in social approach. Like, treating models as real persons, getting into contact with the audience, etc. But as a layman it's a little difficult to understand the lauded revolutionary approach to fashion by talking heads. Wearability seems to be of an issue, at least during the first few years. He seemed more like a fashion artist. With the focus more on concept than on practical qualities.

His decision to stay anonymous throughout the years is certainly fascinating. A very good approach.

[fashion-and-film]

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019)