#Macre-May 2024

[lobsterplush]

Day 1-2: Cord length and types

Before you can make a project you need to select a cord and cut it to the length needed. There's many types of cord to choose from, each with their own properties. :

A. Limp cord, usually made out of twisted cotton, can be tough to use. It unravels and sometimes doesn't hold it's diameter- a tight knot can compress the cord. However, limp cord is the only type that doesn't hold it's past shape. It can be good for wall hangings where you don't want the hanging cords curly from being sold in a bundle. Since I'm not really into wall hangings I personally avoid this type.

B. Flexible cord like waxed braided cord is my favorite- the cord is strong and brightly colored, the ends don't unravel enough to be an issue, and the texture is smooth and nice on the hands. Sometimes sold in bundles, sometimes wrapped around a piece of cardboard.

C. Stiff cord is usually natural hemp fibers, which are sold in round bundles. This type is really good for trying out new designs without worrying about wasting fancy colored cord, plus the ends don't unravel. Be careful though- this cord is very hairy and can be lumpy and uneven. Natural fiber cord can also come in different colors and stiffness, but even limp natural fibers don't compress in a knot like cotton.

Try not to mix these cord types- limp cord is flattened in a knot with other types, making the knot uneven. Mixing natural fibers with braided cord is fine in certain projects but for the most part the mix of smooth versus hairy+lumpy is awkward.

Other types of cord include synthetic cord, which is limp and can unravel like cotton but can come in vivid colors and weird shapes like flat. I don't have much experience with these. Avoid elastic cords for macrame.

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^ Some cords don't unravel much and you can A) not worry about it. For cords that unravel you can B) tie the end in a knot, or for some synthetic cords C) singe/melt the endings with a lighter.

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One other thing to keep in mind is thickness- the width of the cord is usually given in millimeters (mm) but between you and me, tumblr, I don't think they know what a millimeter is. Who said that.

"1mm" is thin, good for smaller projects like jewelry. This is my default thickness. I've also seen 1mm be called "0.5mm." It doesn't matter much as long as it's thin macrame cord.

"2mm" is thick cord for smaller projects. I don't use thicker cord much because the thicker the cord the (slightly) easier it is for knots to unravel. 3mm and thicker starts getting unwieldy for my style of projects, but is common in stores because wall hangings got trendy.

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When it comes to the length of the cord many tutorials will just give you a length to cut. They give either the length for one specific project or there's a chart for bracelet/necklace/whatever. But people come in different sizes and having a 'one size fits all' measurement leads to wasted cord or a piece that's too small to wear. It can be a bit of a hassle. And I don't like having to dig out a ruler.

So I have my own method.

To measure by feel, use your chosen cord to figure out the length of the project (A). If it is a bracelet, wrap the cord around the wrist. You can make a necklace tight or loose. Whatever you like. Then, add like 3 or 4 inches, 15 to 20cm of bonus cord (B).

(The bonus cord is for you to hold onto when making the knots, and on longer strings it gives much needed wiggle room in case your knots eat up string.)

A and B together is the Project Length, or PL.

Next look at your project. Plan out what each string is doing- if it is used as a base string that goes the length of the project with no turns, it's length is 1 PL. Another string that is used in knots and has lots of turns can be 3 PL. The more PL, the more convoluted the path of the string.

For example, a series of square knots has two base strings and two strings that wrap around them. This project could be one cord, 2 PL, folded in half for the two base strings and a second, 6 PL, folded in half for the two wrapping strings.

So once you measure your project and decide on a PL, fold it back and forth until the cord is the desired length, and use that cord to measure the others in the project.

Another example with pics:

Two strings, natural hemp fiber, as straight as I could get them without taping them down lol. One is 2 PL and the other is 4PL, each folded in half. This makes two 1 PL strings and two 2 PL strings.

The long cords were used to make knots around the base cords, which are straight. (the wrapping cords ended up having more leftovers, but I chose a knot that's really light on the string. And I used string-saving techniques, oops)

(I didn't give myself that much room for the finishing knot, oops x2)

Final product with the strings trimmed! Don't worry about leftovers, the longer ones can be used in other projects or small samples for testing designs. It's better to overestimate the needed cord then to go through the circus of ending up short.

Anyway this way I can give you a design, say the Project Length of each string, and you can use that to build sweeping necklaces to child bracelets.

btw you can always look around at other tutorials of similar designs if you just want a solid number to work with.

(Macre-May Prompt list)

[calibersolar]

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[lobsterplush]

Day 5-6: Square knot

The square knot is one of the most basic knots in macrame, and one of my favorites! They're fast to build and are commonly used as a background knot in a bunch of more complicated patterns. It consists of base strings (usually two) and two strings that wrap around the outside.

A) Start with an overhand knot. The two strings in the center are the base cords, 1 PL each, and the two on the outside will form the knot. For a project of all square knots the outside cords are 3 PL each.

B) Take the left string and fold it over the base cords and then under the right string. This forms an armpit on the left side, arrowed.

C) Move the right string under the base cords and through the armpit.

D) Tighten

E) Follow steps B and C again except in the opposite direction. Start with the right cord folded over the base cords.

F) Tighten to complete one square knot.

G) Repeat steps B through F for multiple square knots.

BTW look for the last completed vertical loop nub on the side, it will be the same side as the next string that goes over the base cords.

A completed square knot (step F) has the nub on the left, so the left cord will start the next knot. At step D the nub is on the right.

A basic square knot project will look like this:

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^ In my diagrams I draw a square knot in the same shape as a lark's head knot. The knots Do have a similar shape on their own.

You can tell them apart by their string interactions- a square knot is fours strings going in and four strings going out, to make an asterisk shape. A lark's head is two strings interacting in a T shape. In diagrams I will also color-code the lark's head knots orange.

^ In a series of square knots I will only draw the vertical loop on one side, like the drawing on the left. Although the project will look more like the drawing on the right, the left drawing it's easier to count the number of individual knots.

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Square knot starter:

You can use a square knot to add the outside cord without securing it with an overhand knot. Great for having only one loop at the start of a project, starting extra square knots in weird places, or just making the start look a little smoother. Be aware that without the overhand knot the square knot can slide along the base cords.

A) Place the outside cords under the base cords. Be careful, the halfway points will be hard to maintain without the overhand knot but you can adjust the strings when the knot is closer to tightening.

B) Move the left cord over the base and under the right like you would for a regular square knot.

C) Fold the right cord under and through the armpit. This is where you would check the outside cords to make sure the left and right are the same length, before tightening.

D) Once the first square knot is completed this is where you would make sure the base cords are the same length.

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If you want the outside cords to be different colors you can fold the strings so that one cord is both a base and outside string. I highly recommend an overhand knot though because it gets really hard to tell where the bend point is located; a quarter of the way down.

It will look like this:

Note the color change of vertical and horizontal loops halfway though. You can change how the colors present by whether the first knot in a series starts with the left cord or the right.

(Macre-May Prompt list)

[lobsterplush]

Macre-May season is here!

Macre-May is an art challenge I'm giving myself for the month of May where I post every other day about macrame knots and patterns, with drawings and photos of examples or past projects.

I have three themes for three years in mind:

Basics and intro to 3D projects

Funky designs and playing with color

Challenge designs

Keep in mind that this is more an art challenge where I get to share a hobby of mine and less professional instructions; there's plenty of places online that will tell you how to start and finish a particular project along with cord type and length. What I want to do is give options and inspiration so you can mix and match your own projects.

I tend to make jewelry because I like the long skinny repetitive format, but I also like to use macrame to build 3D objects. So I'm giving myself this art challenge to push me to try out new methods I haven't tried out before but also so I can post instructions for complicated projects and hopefully people can follow the diagram in my art style.

If my instructions are a little too vague or confusing, free-macrame-patterns.com and youtube tutorials are nice places to look up knots and projects, from people who probably have a better camera than I do lol.

Also if anyone makes anything following my instructions, please tag me!!! I would love to see them! <3

[lobsterplush]

Day 27-28: Spectral line bar

This is a design I've seen online but haven't built before. Because of the shape I can't integrate it into larger projects but it's a fun design on it's own and I wanted to try it out!

There's two strings that go straight through the center at 1PL each, three strings below that make the wave at 2.5PL each, and one string that weaves them together at 3PL.

The sample I've seen online used flat-shaped synthetic cord but it works just as well with regular round cord. It looks really cool and builds fast!

^ Turn the three wave cords beneath the center cords. Then move the weaving cord under the wave cords, over the center and through the armpit. Tighten and adjust.

^ Here's what the back looks like.

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Spectral Line Bar starters:

A) From a row of lark's heads knots, this is the order the cords fall in naturally from left to right. This starter is nice if all cords are the same color, but looks weird if they're different.

B) This method gets the colors in the correct configuration. Putting all the cords into one overhand knot would make a starter cramped, this spaces them out and puts the colors where they need to go. In the over hand knot, add: 'Wave color' 5PL, folded in half 'Wave color' 2.5PL 'Weaving color' 3PL

After the overhand knot, gather the cords that are 'wave color' and tie a lark's head knot across it made of 'center color' 2PL, folded in half.

Colored, they look like this:

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Tying off the end:

(Again, putting everything into one big overhand knot would not only make the ending cramped but would make the overhand knot weak. Larger overhand knots are easier to unravel, and four strings is my limit. So I suggest these finishers.)

A) In the first overhand knot the weaving and center strings are tied together and the center strings are trimmed. Then the weaving cord continues to an overhand knot with the wave cords. This method maintains a proper wave shape on the wave cords.

B) The first overhand knot includes the weaving and wave cords. Then trim the weaving cord and one of the waves. The other two wave cords become the base cords in a square knot, highlighted in blue. The outer cords for the square knot are the center cords; wrapped around the outside of the overhand. You can even build the square knot over the first overhand knot, to hide it. This method is good for a neat, symmetrical ending, or if you want to finish with a square knot sequence.

Colored, they look like this:

For my sample I used starter type B and finished with type A:

This design looked so cool I immediately made another:

(Macre-May Prompt list)

[lobsterplush]

Day 25-26: Extending cord

Say you've cut cord for a project and find out, 90% of the way in, that you're going to be an inch short of where you need to be. A necklace too tight to be worn, a bracelet too small. What do you do?

Extending cord doesn't work on all types of knot designs but for those that are compatible it can save the work and cut cord from becoming a waste.

The trick is to recognize the problem early so you have the space to fix it. Every spot where you exchange one cord out for a longer cord lowers the project's structural integrity so the further these spots are from each other, the stronger the project.

Extending the cords on a projects happens at a sequence of square knots, and works better the longer the sequence since you can put more distance between the weak points. There's two methods- extending the outer cords and the base cords.

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Extending outer cords:

A) Old outer cord is colored light blue, base cords light green.

B) Fold the outer cords down so they are flat against the base cords.

C) Add the new outer cords (dark blue), long enough to last to the end of the project. Place them under the four old cords.

D) Use the new cord to make a square knot starter with the all four old cords as the base cords. This makes the square knot wider than a square knot with two base cords, so pull it very tight not only to make the square knot skinnier but to add friction so the knot doesn't slip.

E) The arrow that goes between D and E points to the new cord that went under the old cords in step C. It forces about half a square knot's length on the project, and creates a visible node.

F) Now that the old outer cords are with the base cords cut them to different lengths. As you work the old outer cords will be hidden under the square knot sequence and the change in square knot width will be gradual as it goes from four back to two base cords.

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Extending base cords:

A) New base cord is dark green. Place one cord in with the old base cords.

B) Tie square knots over the cord and again, pull it very tight where there's more than two cords as a base. After a few square knots cut one old base cord short.

C) Where that old base cord ends add the second new base cord. This keeps the width of the square knots from fluctuating; a steady 3 base cords.

D) The exchange is fully hidden by the outer cord's square knot sequence and doesn't have a visible node like extending the outer cords.

^ Three points of interest when changing base cords, without the outer cords covering them. The further these points are to each other the stronger the project.

Of the two types, extending the base cords makes a project weaker than extending outer cords. Any open squares or breaks in the square knot sequence near these points also decreases the structural integrity.

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Things to avoid/watch out for:

^ If you're trying to extend cord on an open square design it will need to have a sequence of square knots between them. There's no space to secure the old cord on a shorter sequence, and no way to hide the fact that there's extra base cords.

Don't add outer cord right after an open square. Build at least one full knot with the old cord before adding the new, otherwise the shape of the open square loop will come out warped.

^ Don't cut the old cords to the same length. Not only is the square knot size change abrupt but the connection isn't as strong. Square knots can slide over base cords and more cords in the base means they slide easier. Plan space for there to be three cords in the base; it really anchors the cord ends.

Don't change the outer and inner cords at the same time. A hard yank and the square knots can slide off the base cords, pulling the whole project in two.

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Example of a tough cord extension, four square knots between open squares:

If you're running out of base and outer cords around the same time, extend the outer cords first because they run out faster.

A) One square knot of old cord makes the open square loop the correct shape.

B) There's four square knots between each open square, and the square knot starter adds an extra half knot of width. To keep the square sequence four knots in length, the added new outer cord starts with the second half of a square knot.

C) The first old outer cord is cut very short so there's space for both outer cords to run out before the next open square.

D) The second outer cord runs out.

E) First new base cord is added.

F) First old base cord runs out.

G) Second new base cord is added. Unlike the outer cords, the two base cords don't need to be exchanged between the same open square loops.

H) Second old base cord runs out.

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BTW if you're working on a large project and fighting long cords bothers you more than bumps, you can use cord extension on purpose and cut cord as you go.

^ A necklace with outer cords extended. The necklace is strong and the bump isn't that noticeable!

Another strategy if you're running low on cord is to switch to a different knot that is less cord intensive to reach the last bit of desired length.

(Macre-May Prompt list)

[lobsterplush]

Day 23-24: Lego keychain charm Part 2

Time to turn the project 3D by lacing up the sides!

^ The sides will be 1 knot wide by adding 2 cords between the alternating square knot rows 4, 5, and 6. Cut each cord 24in (60cm) and fold them uneven- 10 and 14in (25 and 35cm), with the longer cords on the outsides.

^ You'll be working your way around the outside, stitching up three of the four sides of the Lego.

The hard part is the stretch where you attach the top and bottom of the body, especially tying the securing overhand knots. First lace around the 'top' in between the lark's head's knots, which will be on your right. Then make the square knot, making an open square with an open loop to the left and the lacing on the right. Then tie the ends of the 'bottom' around the open loop, 2 strings per overhand knot, with the knots on the inside.

The 'bottom' strings are wrapped around the open loop in a way that angles them to the inside. Finish tying the overhand knots for one open square loop before you start lacing the next square knot.

^ A diagram of the Hard Part. The two light blue colored square knots are the same knot, as are the two green. On the right, the dark blue dots are where the lacing cord loops between the lark's head knots. On the left are two methods of wrapping strings around the open square loop. Let's take a closer look:

A) For two strings: wrap both ends under and up through the open loop. Then split the strings and wrap them back under, like a backwards lark's head knot. Secure with an overhand knot beneath the backwards lark's head, on the inside of the project.

B) For four strings: wrap the center strings over and down through the open loop. The outer strings don't pass through the open loop but are pulled directly to the inside of the project where they are secured to their respective center strings.

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Let's try it!

^ Cords attached.

^ Lacing down the first side of the Lego.

^ The square knot is built and I'm about to use the 2-string method to tie off the first 2 strings and go around the corner.

^ Knot tied on the inside! Getting the overhand knot close to the open square loop is tricky.

If you're having trouble try making the overhand knot half-tight. Then try to loosen the knot by only pulling in cord coming from the open loop's direction, and only tightening the knot by pulling cord out to the loose hanging strings. This will move the overhand knot in the direction of the open loop.

^ Once the overhand knot is secure you can trim the strings.

^ As you go it gets harder because as the second side gets laced shut the opening where you can access the inside gets smaller. But at least there's less cords in the way.

When you're done lacing the second side it gets easy again. Tie off the 4 strings with one overhand knot, and trim the two shortest cords. The two longer cords can be tied to make a loop to add it to a keychain, or do whatever you like. I added a bead to the end:

It looks so good!!!

And it killed my yellow cord bundle!

(Macre-May Prompt list) | Part 1

[lobsterplush]

Day 21-22: Lego keychain charm Part 1

A little 3D Lego! It matches the sticker on the notebook where I'm putting all my Macre-May drawings. :D

The project is on the simple side and the securing knots are hidden, but it can be tricky at the point where you hide the knots due to the project's small size. But that's in part 2.

First part is you build the main alternating square section of the project:

That's a 4 square knot wide alternating square, 8 cords total, with four buttons at the top. Nine rows, counting the rows with four square knots on them. Do Not tie overhand knots at the bottom.

Let's look at the cord lengths:

Cord group A is two cords on which the lark's head's knots are attached. Both cords are 20in (50cm) and will have about 13in (32cm) on one side and 7in (18cm) on the other so the left and right sides have one of each length. The longer cord forms the knots on the outside.

Cord group B is four cords that pass through buttons. They are 32in (80cm) each, folded with unequal sides. The inside cords, colored in tan, are 15in (38cm) and the outside cords, colored in purple, are 17in (42cm).

Cord group C is two cords that do not pass through buttons. They are 26in (65cm) each, folded in half.

I suggest you adjust the lengths of the Group B and C cords, and once their lark's head knots are in place then adjust Group A.

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I chose a bundle of yellow 1mm cord:

Cut my cord, got the lengths adjusted for the larks heads and secured them to the Group A cords, then adjusted those. The Group A lengths will be slightly shorter than stated because some of the cord length went into crossing the top of the project. It's fine.

^ Me building the top two buttons

Count the square knot rows so they match the diagram. It will be about 3in (7.5cm) long, not including the leftover cord.

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Once the body is built stitch a circle on the bottom:

Use the double sided stitching method. Pick any node as a starter point. Tie the overhand knot on the opposite side of the buttons.

We'll pause there until part 2!

(Macre-May Prompt list) | Part 2

More details on how I figured out the cord lengths below the cut, if you want to follow along.

Wow really? You want to see my math? 😮👀💞

(I calculated everything in inches, and there was plenty of leftover cord when I was done, so the measurements given in centimeters are not exact, but close enough.)

First I drew my project diagram so I knew the number of rows I would have to build. Actually planning out the project aside, it came to 9 rows. Then I checked my sample alternating square knot (flashdrive tag!)...

...and found 9 rows to be about 3 inches. Giving 3 extra inches for bonus cord, I had a working Project Length of 6 inches.

Alternating square knots are 2 PL per string, except the second-to-outer cord, at 1 PL. From there I calculated:

Group A cords 18in (2PL + 1PL) Group C cords 24in (2PL + 2PL)

Group B cords needed to be a little bit longer, for the buttons. Each lark's head knot would have one cord that would act as the base cord and one as the outer cord for a sequence of square knots.

I figured the base cord for a sequence of 8 square knots would be about 2in and the outer cords 4in. I know I said a sequence of squares has a cord length ratio of 1:3 but on an earlier Macre-May I found shorter lengths need less outer cord. Plus I figured the alternating square's 'bonus cord' would cover any problems. So:

Group B cords 30in (2PL + 2PL +2in +4in)

BUT!

I always like to over-estimate, especially since I'm not used to measuring so carefully. I'm used to measuring by feel and I can only cut once. If my calculations ended up wrong, I'd be in trouble.

So I added 2in to each cord length, 1 extra inch per string, just in case. And tbh it came out exactly as I imagined:

The alternating square ended up at 3in and the leftovers were almost all the same length. The shortest cords ended up being the Group A cords, about 3.5in, and the Group B and C cords were all about 4 to 4.5in. Not bad! If each string was 1in shorter I still would have made it.

The leftovers were a bit longer than I personally would have liked, but the longer cord was helpful for the tricky parts in part 2. If I were to make it again I would keep the length of Group A and use the shorter lengths for Groups B and C.

[lobsterplush]

Day 19-20: Square knot button

This is a design I saw online but I hadn't built before. So this Macre-May I wanted to try it out. The instructions I saw were like this:

^Build a sequence of square knots and pull the base cords through the cords before the sequence. Pulled tight it forces the sequence into a loop. Secure with square knot.

This is about all I had to work with, and on its own, there's a few problems. It requires the cords before the sequence to be loose enough to make a hole to pull the cords through, and an open square would be too loose. The securing square knot on the one side and loose cords on the other make the button asymmetrical. How would you make a second button?

So I played around with some ideas:

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Alternating square knot button:

An alternating square knot naturally places a hole above the square knot sequence. The wide base also helps keep the button facing upward. I tried it out and it works pretty well:

One thing I noticed is that the button forces the alternating square knot to be tight. For better spacing I would suggest making the first knot of the square knot sequence loose on the alternating square. Make these cords a bit longer than pictured:

That would place the button closer to where a normal square knot would be on the alternating square.

In my alternating square button sample I tried buttons of different sizes to see how they looked:

^Starting on the left is a button made of a 3 square knot sequence, increased by 1 on each button going to the right, ending at 8. Three is about the limit on how small a button could be.

^ At around button size 6, the size of the button started to bend the alternating square downward.

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Making a button without an alternating square knot:

^ For this sample I used brightly colored cord for visibility. Orange outside cord on the left, pink on the right, and light blue for the two base cords. You'll also need some short scrap cord for this technique.

A) At the place where you want a button, insert a scrap cord folded in half so the loop is pointed towards you, at the front. When you tighten the square knot the scrap forces a small open square in the middle of the square sequence.

B) Build the number of square knots you plan for the button.

C) Take the base cords and feed them through the scrap cord loop.

D) Pull on the ends of the scrap cord, pulling the base cords through the small open square.

^ Woohoo! It works!

^ Size 4 and 6 buttons.

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Diagram shorthand:

^ I'm going to draw square buttons as a lavender square. Number of square knots is drawn on the button.

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Calculating cord length

Button cord length can vary widely by project, depending on how big the buttons and the distance between them.

Generally you would calculate the length of the cord needed for the project without the buttons and the length needed for the buttons on their own, then add those numbers together.

Buttons are built with a sequence of square knots and thus the cords lengths needed have similar proportion. (About 3:1, 2:1 if the buttons are small or sparse.) But they don't add any actual length to a project.

On a single knot wide button, like the second sample in this post, this is easy to calculate. The cord length acts like a very long square knot sequence. The fun part is calculating the length on an alternating square:

(ALT): For the actual length of the project, all cords pass through the alternating square knots, mostly at 2 PL.

(+BUTTON): Cord group B in the center passes through buttons. If the length of the alternating square is roughly equal the length of the square knot sequences that will make the buttons, then the Project Length of the alternating square can be used for the button too.

(TOTAL): Add the distance that the cords pass through the alternating square and the buttons. Cord groups A don't pass through buttons so they're the same as the alternating square.

(CUT CORD): The actual length of cord you cut, basically you add up both sides of one lark's head knot.

I'm... hoping I didn't just make it more confusing. If I put square knot buttons in a project I'll just calculate the cord lengths myself and give them to you.

(Macre-May Prompt list)

Under the cut is some unofficial button variations!

Flat button

For when you want the button to lay flat! Pass the outer cords through the button loop so the securing knot is a few square knots down from the starting open square loop.

This puts the two outer cords on the opposite sides (pink is now on the left and orange on right), so if you want the colors in the square knots to remain the same start your securing knot with the opposite cord.

^ The base cords also are visible on the bottom of the button.

^Flat button below the size 4 and 6 buttons. It's... a little lopsided.

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Not-lopsided flat button

Make TWO small open squares using two scrap cords, both pointed with loops facing towards you. The base cords get pulled through the first loop and the outer cords go through the second.

The first flat button was lopsided because it had one joint spot that allowed for a tight angle to form. It made a tear-drop shape. With two joint spots the button is now shaped more like a lemon. Symmetrical. You can also control the exact number of square knots that form the bottom and loop of the button.

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Spike!

Make that button pointy by forming a gap with the base cords outside the square sequence while making no gap with the outer cords. This forces a sharp turn in the square sequence.

It can be kinda tough to build; it helps to place a temporary object (like another scrap cord, lol) between the base cords and the continuing square sequence, as a placeholder so you don't accidentally tighten the base cords and remove the spike as you build it.

^ I put a spike on my not-lopsided flat button. Pls ignore me fighting for my life with running short on outer cords. I survived.

^ The finished sample! In order: open square, size 4 button, size 6 button, flat button and not-lopsided flat button with a spike.

[lobsterplush]

Day 17-18: Stitching

The main difference between stitching a design onto macrame and other crafts is that the string can only pass through specific holes on the alternating square grid:

^On the left I shaded the holes that are big enough for string to pass through. I draw these diagrams loose so the space between the two strings between two knots looks big enough, but the grid acts more like the diagram on the right. (And the base alternating square knot cords will be colored similarly in this post.)

So when planning a design to stitch on an alternating square knot, make sure the holes support your design: that there's enough space and it's not forcing a design to be out of proportion.

Stitching cord follows the shortest path. If there's a curve, it will follow the inside of the curve. Holes are kinda diamond shaped, and it can affect the end result.

When cutting cord cut it slightly longer than you may think, especially if the cord is prone to fraying. Then you can trim the ends if the cord starts to unravel as you work.

There's generally two methods to stitching that I'm covering here: One sided and double sided designs

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Double sided method:

Simple and easy; it puts the same design mirrored on both sides of the alternating square knot. Note that while I colored these diagrams with the stitching string in two shades of blue, it's one cord. But it makes the paths easier to follow.

Choose a starting point and pass the stitching cord through to the halfway point. Then weave the cords over and under, and with the two cords it forms a continuous line on the surface.

^ The little arrows are pointed to the starting points. When you're trying to make a complex design that has forks in the path you can stitch with multiple cords like on the left, or have one cord branch off and come back, like on the right.

Very neat! Secure the cord with an overhand knot on the back, or in an obscure corner if you're really using it two-sided.

You can make the design bold by going over the path a second time but be careful- passing many cords through one hole can make it crowded and difficult to add more.

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One sided method:

The idea behind a one-sided design is that for the most part both cords are on the front surface and only stitch onto the grid at curve points. I found it's very hard to keep both cords right next to each other, so the cords tend to have a space between them. Play around and find a design path that uses this to its benefit!

^ In the above sample, the ends are made thicker by looping the stitching cord twice around the starting point.

^ The back of the sample.

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Cursed one sided method:

I drew this one and then tested it out and I gotta say, it didn't work as well as I thought it would. The idea was that one cord would hold the other in place at a junction without needing to stitch onto the grid.

Straight up janky. And difficult to get it set just right.

I also used this method to make the ends a bit thicker...

...and this method at curve points...

...but none of these methods really worked out.

I tried it so you don't have to!

(Macre-May Prompt list)

[lobsterplush]

Day 15-16: Flashdrive tag

This one's a simple project. You can put it on keychains and bags, but my favorite spot is flashdrives because if you have multiple it can be confusing which is which. I also have had trouble forgetting them in computer labs because they can be small and hard to spot. I haven't had that trouble since I started doing this:

It's a nice beginner project because you don't need to measure exact lengths of cords and it's a nice way to show off colors. Art stores will often sell cord in color palettes and if you're looking for an easy project to apply a favorite mix of color, I totally recommend these.

ALSO these tags allow you to create wide samples of alternating square knots. If you want to plan new 3D projects it's super handy to have a bunch around to compare number of knots to lengths, how alternating squares would fold, etc.

Say I'm planning a project that is 12 rows of alternating square knots, I would reference a tag to see how long 12 rows actually are irl and use that to calculate the Project Length of a 12-row project.

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^Diagrams based off above photoed flashdrive tags. I tend to use the slow cord addition method for widening the tags.

Cord lengths are all relative to the center; cut a decent length at about 4PL so they're 2 PL folded in half. Added cords are shorter and measured as you go. When you're done adding cords to the outside just keep making knots until you run out of string, and finish with overhand knots.

Note that on the tag to the left, some of the square knots are in the other direction, built starting with the right string rather than the left. This makes the color stripes more symmetrical, for tags where you want the left and right to match as much as possible.

They're very fun to make; I've made a bunch of flashdrive tags for me and my family:

(Macre-May Prompt list)

[lobsterplush]

Day 13-14: 3D lacing

I'm probably not the first person to try this technique, but I didn't learn it elsewhere. I figured it out on my own and have been putting it in projects ever since. 3D lacing adds sides to an alternating square knot:

Lark's head knots attach to the open square loops on the sides, one knot per open square loop. Then, you fold the sides down...

...and build an alternating square knot while stitching the open square loops together:

^Open square loops of the original alternating square knot are colored in blue, matching the first diagram.

These diagrams are drawn loose so you can see the structure but would be tighter in-project.

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Odd numbers of lark's head knots:

This makes the sides an alternating square with an extra half knot. An open square loop is stitched in on each row.

On alternating squares with even numbers, the open square loops line up evenly. But on odd numbers the open square loops will be offset. Odd number alternating square knots do take a bit more planning.

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^Circles are square knots, in relation to how they fold corners.

Okay so. When it comes to the spacing of square knots on an alternating square knot, the grid is ALMOST the same horizontally and vertically. But open square loops on the side are a little bit wider than the square knots side by side on the top.

This spaces the first few square knots farther apart than a normal alternating square, and can make a distinct crease on the corners of wider sides. If you want rounder corners don't make all the lark's head knots into square knots on the first row, but add them in gradually.

Even if you start with loose alternating square knots they tend to grow closer together as you go. (Unless you really pay attention, but that ain't me.) So the width of a 3D project's sides are measured by the square knots, like a regular alternating square, not by the width of the open square loops used.

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If you're working towards a bend rather than away:

Unless the project is really open or shallow, you're not going to be able to hide the overhand knots on the inside. This is my favorite method for securing the cord ends- Two cords per open square loop are brought over and into the loop, an immediately brought back to the outside of the project on the outsides of their cords. Like a backwards lark's head knot. Then those two cords are secured with an overhand knot.

The hardest part in planning a 3D project is trying to hide the overhand knots, but sometimes they just stick out.

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Adding and subtracting cords in the middle of an alternating square rather than the sides to make it bend is not going to be covered. I plan to try some tests for another Macre-May, but for now my 3D projects are kinda square and blocky.

(Macre-May Prompt list)

Extensive sample pictures below the cut:

^Three square knots wide, but I started with two square knots on the first row for a rounder edge.

^I begin stitching!

^I complete one side.

^I narrow the side alternating square knot, then used the outermost cords to wrap over all of the others to make a really thick square sequence. When I got to the other side I did those steps in reverse, using the other side as a guide so they match.

^I work down towards the bend.

^Backwards lark's head knot.

^Overhand knots tied and cords cut.

^SMOL BASKET WOOHOO •°☆▪

[lobsterplush]

Day 11-12: Widen and narrow

You can add and subtract cords from an alternating square knot, or even add to an open square to turn it into an alternating square!

To widen, add lark's head knots to the open square loops on the sides:

A) Slow addition method, with a square knot between lark's head knots. Makes a gentle slope.

B) Fast addition method, with lark's head knots added directly onto each other. Makes a nice 45 degree angle.

In the center is the alternating square knot, all cords 2 PL. When measuring the lengths for the added cords, match them to the lengths of the cords on the alternating squares where they're being added. But always underestimate the cord lengths, especially on the slow addition method, because I find there tends to be a lot leftover.

Here's the above picture with various cords highlighted so you can see their path:

^ Note that the second to last cords on the outside are straight. You can cut the last cord even shorter and save more cord if you account for this. If you do cut the last cord shorter, match the outermost cord length with the inner cords. The second to last cord would be 1 PL, of the remaining project length rather than the initial.

I made a sample of the above diagram; green is the base alternating square knot, yellow is the slow addition method and brown is fast.

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Narrowing:

Narrow an alternating square by building less square knots on each row. Make overhand knots to secure loose cords and to neaten the ends. On a decorative or hanging project these overhand knots aren't too obtrusive, and you can cut the leftover cords longer for a tassel effect.

For jewelry or 3D projects these overhand knots can stand out awkwardly. I'm still trying out ways to make them less prominent, but hiding cord ends is still one of my weak points.

(Macre-May Prompt list)

[lobsterplush]

Day 9-10: Alternating square knot

Good for making wide projects and forming the background structure for wide designs. Most 3D projects are also built using this method. An alternating square knot is a row of square knots that switch their base and outside cords each row down:

^ On the left, the numbers on the bottom are the PLs of each string. The path of most strings is similar to the outside cord of an open square, but on each side there's one string that doesn't form knots. On the right, various cords are highlighted so you can follow their path.

Keep in mind my diagrams tend to be loose so you can see the structure of the cords, but an actual sample tends to be tighter. I suggest you don't try to build it loose because then you have to work extra hard to maintain the same distance between knots.

I measure the width of my projects in square knots. The above project is three wide. Note that every other row it switches from three square knots and two square knots. On the rows that are two knots, there's two strings, half a knot's worth, on each side shaped like an open square. I'll call these open square loops.

Some projects have an extra half knot in width, and the half knot/open square loop is on every row, alternating on the left and right side.

^ Details of square knot and cord interactions. On the right is a 1 1/2 square knot wide example.

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Some examples:

^ This one is five square knots wide. I took a bunch of pictures of the building process for this Macre-May prompt.

Here's an example of a necklace using alternating square. On the front I used red and yellow cord to create a design:

but the wide back is alternating square, 2 1/2 knots wide:

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Starting an alternating square:

A) A row of lark's heads knots formed over two cords. The two cords bend down to join the project. Good for 3D projects.

B) Start with an overhand knot to form a loop at the top. Then add lark's head knots to the strings coming out of the overhand. Good for jewelry.

C) Lark's heads over a separate string , dowel rod, bar, etc. that is not part of the alternating square knot project. Good for wall hangings.

D) Lark's heads knots added to a keychain. You can't add as many cords as the other options, but you can make it wider later.

E) If you want a lot of space at the top you can add less lark's heads knots, with square knot starters (colored in blue) on their cords.

When you are planning an alternating square knot project, first figure out how wide you want the project. Choose a starter method like one of the ones above and add lark's head knots until you reach that width.

Two cords, folded to create two lark's heads knots, hang down to create four strings for one square knot. To give an extra half knot in width, use an odd number of cords.

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Finishing an alternating square:

Finish with a row of overhand knots to secure the ends and make a neat finish. Sometimes I make a knot every two cords or, as pictured, every four. It depends on the project and preference.

A knot every two cords make smaller overhand knots and can draw less attention to the ends, but when you knot four cords it gives you an extra open square loop on the sides of the bottom.

Four cords also tend to angle downward while two cords angle out.

^ Four cord overhand knots

^ Type B starter and two cord overhand knots

(Macre-May Prompt list)

[lobsterplush]

Day 7-8: Open square and twist

These are two simple variations on the square knot. Let's start with the open square:

To make this knot, first loop the outer cords around the base knot as if you were making one full square knot but without tightening the outer cords around the base. This should give you two loose half-knots.

Adjust the size of the loops above the first half knot. Hold the first half knot down in place when the loops form a gap at the desired size. Then tighten the second half knot to the first to create a tightened square knot. Adjust the knot as needed.

Base is 1 PL, outside cords 2 PL. Outside cords should be longer if you plan to have a sequence of square knots between open squares. The length of the cord can also be affected by the size and shape of the gap- larger gaps on an open square generally use less cord.

The open square good for showing off base cord colors or to have a project that uses less cord than a full square knot. The hardest part is making sure all the loops are the same size.

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The twist is a fun variation that doesn't integrate well into larger projects. It's still very pretty and very easy to make.

When making a square knot you go back and forth, folding the left and right cords over the base strings. To make a twist you always fold over the base from one side, never making the second half of a square knot. It creates a twisting effect.

Whether you fold from the left or the right makes the project twist in different directions.

If the outer cords have two colors they form a sort of stripey pattern:

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On twisting effects:

(^ View of the end of a square knot)

The square knot is a knot with a strong twisting effect. That's why you have to do the second half of the knot in the opposite direction, to balance out the twist and make the knot flat.

There's a couple of knots (although I won't get into them on this year's Macre-May) that have a weak twisting effect. They may not be as obvious as the above twist design, but can create a slow shift over the course of a project. I'll give a warning when we come to one.

(Macre-May Prompt list)

[lobsterplush]

Day 3-4: Start and finish

There's two common knots used at the ends of projects:

Overhand knots are good for securing both beginnings and ends of projects, but especially the ends to keep them from unraveling. The knot starts to get loose with more than four strings so on more complicated projects I will try to finish them in multiple overhand knots. Make sure to tug on each string after making an overhand knot so all strings are tight and the knot is strong.

Lark's head knots are good for starting wide projects:

^Ten strings, as an example. You can make your project as wide as you like by adding more lark's head knots. I'll show some examples of other wide project starters on a later post.

When I draw diagrams I will show these two knots like so:

The overhands will be colored yellow and the lark's heads orange, for visibility. So that ten string starter would look like this:

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When starting a project I fold my strings to put useful loops at the top of my projects. (As opposed to cutting four separate strings for a four string project, etc.) I've seen some tutorials where a project is started in the middle and worked outwards, but that means you'll have to trim both sides. Loop starters are less messy imho.

To finish you have to secure the cords. I have to admit, this is my weak spot; I tend to just make a bunch of overhand knots and trim the excess. It's not that clean a finish.

On jewelry I just try to avoid drawing attention to the clasp area but if the project is a bangle, like a keychain, you can trim the leftover string to be longer, like fringe. And on 3D projects I try to find ways to hide the knots from view.

The more strings you cut for a project the more ends to eventually clean up.

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Starting and finishing with clasps!

A) Magnetic clasps: Easy to put on but also easy to remove. They come in different shapes and some are shaped in a way that makes it harder for them to just get yanked apart. I've found the cord holes on these types of clasps to be on the small side (many can only fit one macrame string) so watch out for that.

B) Lobster clasps: It is with heavy heart I must report that many small lobster clasps have sticky joints and are super difficult to fasten, even if you add a little metal circle that makes the target circle thinner, as pictured. It's better than trying to lobster claw grabbie the cord loops, but you're still going to struggle. Even with a second person's help.

C) Barrel clasps: Great for necklaces because it needs two hands to fasten. A fav.

D) Bead clasp: You start the projects with a loop anyway, may as well use it like a button! You could just use a large knot as a button but big beads look nice! As pictured ^, pony beads are just big enough to be worked over an overhand knot and can be secured with glue. A lot of my bracelets were finished this way because it's one of the easier clasps to fasten one-handed, but they work for necklaces too. Make sure to put the bead over the knot before trimming the cords!

E) No clasp: if a necklace is long, you can tie it and skip clasps altogether.

Don't forget: any clasp bits you want on the beginning loop, add them before you start tying knots. When finishing you can slide a clasp on a few strings and secure it with an overhand knot or add the clasp between two overhand knots.

There's definitely other types of clasps I'm less familiar with; you can poke around the clasp section at an art store and see what hits you.

(Macre-May Prompt list)