https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/138d0f62-1ad1-11ec-b8f6-2f9fbbeddc5b?shareToken=4aa5c63b7232d6a281cd0bb09093dfee
INSIDE CARL BARÂT AND GIZZI ERSKINE’S MARGATE CAFE, HOME OF THE FASHIONABLE FRY-UP
The Libertines frontman and the trend‑setting chef are reinventing the great British greasy spoon. Expect crisp sandwiches, Bovril mayo — and not a smashed avocado in sight
Kate Spicer Sunday September 26 2021, 12.01am BST, The Sunday Times
The idea of a Libertine, a member of one of the most decadent bands to come out of Britain for some time, opening a café seems absurd. But here I am at the Love Cafe in sunny Margate, which opens on Thursday, being shown where the coffee machine will go, where the DJ will be for the sunset sessions, hearing that the wallpaper in the loos is by the artist and screen printer Ben Rider, and witnessing the cheers as the Love sign, picked out in lightbulbs like an old Soho strip joint, goes up on the hot pink and black exterior. It’s less Can’t Stand Me Now, more Love Is All You Need — which just happens to be picked out in hexagonal tiles on the lavatory floor.
Since acquiring a hotel, the Albion Rooms, in the seaside town five years ago, the Libertines’ presence has been powerful. The band’s singer and lead guitarist, Carl Barât, owns a house here, and the band sponsors Margate FC — so why, now, a café?
“Carl and I have been trying to work together for ages,” says the chef Gizzi Erskine — the two met through the fashion designer Pearl Lowe and have been good friends for years. ‘‘I love music, he loves food. Then, in February, Ronnie [Traynor, a music manager, Margate resident and an old friend of Barât] found this site, so I came up and we had a fun few days imagining our dream café.”
The result is Love Cafe, a joint project between Erskine, Barât, Traynor and Barât’s longtime partner, Edie Langley — ‘‘And it’s as close to a 2021 vision of a real greasy spoon as possible,” Erskine says. Inside the vibes are all there, with bespoke punk wallpaper and vintage furniture overseen by the interior designer Rhiannon Sussex (the mother of Rhys Webb of the Noughties band the Horrors), who also did the Albion Rooms. It’s a mood that perfectly suits the Libertines, whose formative years often saw them hanging out at their local greasy spoon. At the time the two Libertine frontmen were peak-skinny, Camden-boy rock stars in waiting, and their love of a traditional caff epitomised their mythologising of a romantically seedy old England.
‘‘It’s about that primeval need we have for community, for a place where you’re known,’’ Barât says today of why he has always wanted to open an old-school caff, ‘‘where you walk in and instantly feel better. No snooty vibes.”
As for the food — no smashed avo? Very brave, I say. Erskine shrugs: “I’m not going to have sourdough either.” What! Wholemeal, though? “I’m about proper chewy crusted good white bread with fantastic unpasteurised cultured butter. If you’re low-carb, Love Cafe is the wrong place for you.
“We are reimagining that great seaside institution, the British caff,” she continues. “Proper breakfasts, juicy chicken and chips, toasties, ice-cream sundaes, and there will be a big urn for proper builder’s tea.” She describes one menu item, a roast beef sandwich, in explicit food-porn detail: “crunchy watercress, perfectly pink beef, chrain, which is horseradish … then a layer of ready salted Kent Crisps,” plus “Bovril” mayo, which is a mayonnaise made with beef dripping and the ultra-tasty goo called fond that’s found at the bottom of the roasting tin”. Prices will start at about £9 for a toastie.
Back in 2018, to gales of disapproval, Erskine admitted on Instagram that she had skipped a red-carpet event because she had felt unhappy about her body. “Thousands of people told me off for not having a trigger warning with that post,” she says. “It’s like, ‘You’ve committed the thought crime of not liking your thighs.’ But the truth is I was happier as a size ten. I don’t feel as healthy this size and I don’t fit in my clothes. I put on weight because I work hard. I constantly pick because I am tired. Loads of women will relate to that. But I can’t admit I don’t like being bigger, no one dares do it any more, we all just shut up and try not to get cancelled.”
Maybe that is why, even though she still lives in Hackney, she has become a fan of Margate. “It’s more collaborative here. People want you to succeed — in London it can feel like they are willing you to fail.”
Meanwhile it was creativity, freedom and, he admits, the bourgeois reason of house prices that drew Barât DFL (down from London). “As much as my love for London remains, there is distinctly less freedom now and too much corporate hegemony,” he says. The other crucial draw was friends such as Mairead Hayden, the former manager of Florence + the Machine, who moved to Margate several years ago and now owns a mezcal bar there called Mariachi.
The Margate migration is nothing new — in 2017 The Times declared it one of the trendiest places in Britain — but the pandemic has brought a new influx. Even Tracey Emin, who grew up in the town, moved back at the end of last year. It also appears to be something of a sanctuary for reformed ravers. Ronnie Traynor, for instance, has not had a drink in three years. The Love Cafe, she says, will have an extensive low and no-alcohol list. “Margate has a pretty evolved sober scene,” she says. It appears the former bad boy Barât has changed as well, as he puffs away on a fruity-smelling vape (though he later shows me the pack of Marlboro Gold he also carries in his pocket).
Does he expect his bandmate Pete Doherty, now living in rural France, to pop in for a meal? Snide tabloid comments about Doherty’s weight are met with big, genuine smiles from those here that know him — “It’s great, it means he’s off the heroin,” pipes up Tony, the band’s long-term PR. “I’m sure he’ll be in for a big breakfast soon,” Barât adds, perhaps referring to the mega-breakfast challenge Doherty completed in a Margate café three years ago (he had to eat a huge fry-up in 20 minutes that included four eggs, four rashers of bacon and four sausages), which ended up making the news — and spawning endless memes. Barât describes his relationship with his bandmate as solid: “We’ve had tough times, but we all have the same strong chemistry today we had in 1998.”
After the Love Cafe, Barât will be opening a club in the basement called Justine’s. There’s talk of more Love Cafes in more seaside towns, too, but there is also talk of writing music.
Barât’s first home is still east London, but in a few weeks, along with Langley and their two sons, Eli, ten, and Ramone, seven, he will move here full-time for a “better life” for the kids. Barât says he likes the way that in their neighbourhood, Cliftonville, “the kids are out playing on the streets till dark, it feels natural and friendly, it’s almost Victorian. It is simpler, less scary, less daunting. These days I’d rather be on the edge of the labyrinth than in the middle of it.”
Love Cafe, 3-4 Marine Gardens, Margate, opens on Thursday
Hair and make-up: Alice Theobald at Arlington Artists using Dior Forever Foundation and Capture Totale Super Potent Serum, Lash Star Beauty and Windle London. Barât’s suit and waistcoat: Herr von Eden
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Life back to normal with Taste of London launch
7th July 2021
Life seemed back to normal when Taste of London finally returned to Regent's Park. Celebrities Nick Grimshaw, Daisy Lowe and Gizzi Erskine came out to enjoy the festivities in the VIP grounds which were serving up Laurent-Perrier champagne and Mirabeau Rosé.
Oliver Proudlock was seen wandering the grounds as he was there to promote his new venture Quatre Vin wine.
The big announcement in the evening was that Tamarind of Mayfair won Best Dish for Rajasthani Churi Chaat, made with fried onions, spices and crushed papads with sweet and tangy chutneys. I tasted it myself and can confirm it was a well deserved win!
Cocktail masterclasses set up by Shelf Now and hosted by Double Dutch drinks - twin sisters from the Netherlands - was a wonderful way to experience making mojitos and a twist on the Negroni with Della Vite Prosecco.
Other experiences on the grounds includes Laurent-Perrier taster menu, pairing dessert and drinks; Chop It Like IT's Hot Taste Kitchen for cooking masterclasses and All Accor Live Limitless Dining Experience hosted by a collaboration of Taste chefs.
There's a whole lot more to see and do so come down and soak up the atmosphere with a glass in your hand and a plate in the other!
Taste of London runs from 7-11 and 14-18 July
https://london.tastefestivals.com/
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