#Fortuny pleat

[featherstonevintage]

La belle époque du Fortuny

Jardin des Modes, November 1979

[digitalfashionmuseum]

Dark Green Pleated Silk Evening Dress, ca. 1910, Italian.

By Mario Fortuny.

National Museums Scotland.

[murmel-malt]

Face, night, & outerwear for Daera?

So sorry this took me ages, Misa! Turns out, words are hard 😭

face: Describe your OC's face. What's their smile like? Are their orbs cerulean? What would someone notice first when looking at them?

My immediate go-to for what someone would notice first about her was obviously her green eyes which are not typical for a Targaryen. But that felt a little too obvious, so I am going with her attitude.  There is a fire in her eyes that is very reminiscent of the Targaryen’s mounts. Some call her stubborn, others spirited; but all agree that in the absence of a dragon to ride, Hedaera Targaryen had to become a bit of a dragon herself.

All of Daera’s wardrobe is very inspired by Mariano Fortuny’s fashion which I am obsessed with. So I included some stuff that has explicitely inspired some of Daera's outfits.

night: What does your OC wear to sleep? Do they have a favorite pair of PJs, or are they more the birthday suit type?

Daera usually wears a simple chemise to bed. It’s thin enough for the warmer climate of King’s Landing and still enough that she doesn’t feel exposed. If a second layer is required for cover she throws on a usually somehow floral-y embroidered/decorated gown. She has one made of heavy velvet that acts essentially like a weighted blanket for her.

outerwear: What's your OC's outerwear situation? Jacket, sweater, cloak? What sort of weather do they deal with most and how do they protect themselves?

Living in the Crownlands she doesn’t really have to deal with extreme weather conditions so when outdoors/on the road Daera opts out of her usual wide, flowy sleeves and light colours and instead simply goes for a tighter fit and a thicker, sturdier overdress in darker colours that are less prone to show any dirt that accumulates on the road (but still never black). When she does need to protect herself from stronger elements she prefers cloaks to wrap herself up in over coats. While her travel fits are less ostentatious and somewhat toned down they are still not necessarily practical as she mostly travels in a wheelhouse and does not take part in any physical activity that requires a special attire.

[theredpharaoah]

I need to figure out how he did these hair pleats. Has anyone tried to reproduce this style specifically?

[ghw-archive]

Charles & Patricia Lester 'Delphos'-style dress and velvet jacket, 1985

[v-as-in-victor]

Oh my textiles people, you are going to enjoy this video!

It's under 7 minutes and contains both pleat history and some at-home pleating technique. And it's very serene.

[mirellabruno]

Mariano Fortuny.

[oldblood]

w/ clothing quality getting worse and thrifting getting harder i’m being forced into sewing beyond just tailoring and making mockups i do nothing with. which is bad in that better fabrics r an immediate price hike

[milfbro]

I guess if you know that ancient egyptians wore pleats you would think any pleating is fair game. But still. Fortuny pleats did not exist in the middle ages or ancient egypt that's not a thing

[nonasuch]

If a time traveler went back, say, 100 years, bought something brand new, and took it with them when returning to their period of origin, would that object be an antique, because it was made 100 years ago, or not, because it has not existed in slow-time for that long?

Oh that’s a good question. Hmm. I think technically no, but depending on what you bring back it wouldn’t matter?

Like, the key would be to pick things that aren’t easily counterfeited in the modern day. If I show up with a like-new Fortuny Delphos, nobody’s gonna care about technicalities or how I got it because they know they can’t be made without Fortuny’s secret pleating technique.

And some things could just be excused as having been forgotten in a box, unused — gold jewelry won’t have a patina from age and won’t show wear if it was never worn, you know?

Whereas a lot of glassware is commonly reproduced and wont be believed as genuine without signs of wear. Or clothing, if made from fabrics that are still available in the modern day, could read as something conceivably sewn by a skilled modern costumer.

[resplendentoutfit]

Dresses as Art: A Selection of Timeless Fortuny Gowns

Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949)

Silk Pleated Delphos Gown in Champagne with Murano Glass Beadwork • c. 1910

The Delphos gown is a finely pleated silk dress first created in about 1907 by French designer Henriette Negrin and her husband, Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo. They produced the gowns until about 1950. It was inspired by, and named after, a classical Greek statue, the Charioteer of Delphi. It is thought that to create the pleating House of Fortuny was famous for, the pleats were stitched down and once heat set, removing the stiches.

Right: Fortuny delphos gown in rapberry silk • c. 1930

Left: Two Peplos gowns • 1920s

Two Delphos gowns, one paired with a Fortuny jacket • 1910s

[featherstonevintage]

La belle époque du Fortuny

Jardin des Modes, November 1979

[the1920sinpictures]

1920 Peplos dress by Mariano Fortuny. Made in apricot silk the dress uses his unique pleating method and the signature Murano glass beads to weight and embellish the hem of the tunic. Stenciling was another signature of his work and the belt of this Peplos is stenciled in silver with a band of leaves. From Attire’s Mind, FB.

[gentlyepigrams]

Peplo dress by Fortuny, c. 1930.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​ Crafted from finely pleated silk, the dress featured a simple yet sophisticated design inspired by ancient Greek attire. Credit: MET Museum

[murmel-malt]

How you createdHedaera Targaryen's design?

Thank you for the ask, Anon!

Daera actually started with the simple idea of a Targ OC with a hobby of botany and not the typical purple eyes. Her name, Hedaera, comes from the scientific name for ivy (Hedera) and was very easily adapted to a more valyrian spelling by slapping an ‘ae’ in there.

Then I was wondering where in the 300 years of the Targ Dynasty I should put her and had the bright idea to have her be Baelon & Alyssa’s daughter, twin to their Aegon and the survivor of Alyssa’s last labour. I gave her her momma’s green eyes to continue the nature/plant motif of her name and originally I even had her marry a Reacher Lord, to drive that motif home even harder. But after talking about her with some mutuals, I changed that.

The rest of her design is very much inspired by her character. She hates being told what to do and loves her freedom (before her marriage she was very much daddy’s spoiled, little princess and enjoyed it) and I decided to visualise that with wide, flowing dresses - nothing too constructed or restricting - and light and soft colors. There's a lot of pastels in her design and none of the harsh and pretty severe black and reds. This is particularly important to her after she was married off.

Her jewellery and hairstyles follow the same principle. Her necklaces are wide/long, not too tight around the neck (feeling like a noose) if she does wear them. Instead she usually wears big rings and earrings.

Mariano Fortuny’s pleated gowns were my main inspo during Daera's creation, along with the blue dress Rhaenyra wears after giving birth to Joffrey in s1, and pleated fabric has been Hedaera’s signature look since then.

I just wanted her style to look a bit different to the Targaryen style, a bit in defiance of it. Because Daera herself has complicated feelings about her family. Like she has a degree of pride in her heritage but it is also what saw her married to her boring older brother against her will. That kind of tainted any positive feelings. So she holds onto these un-Targaryen like colours and shape and style in a clear refusal to conform further than she has already been forced to.

[ghw-archive]

Mariano Fortuny Delphos Dress and Velvet Coat - 1920-30's - Dress: Silk - Coat: Velvet stenciled with metals - The Arizona Costume Institute