#Emmanuelle Dirix

[kitsunetsuki]

Jamie Hodgson - from Fashion in the '70s by Emmanuelle Dirix (2014)

[marketingaveclillie]

i was put into a team of five for this task and we all got sent to research different designers, Coco Chanel , Givenchy, Balmain, Dior and i got Balenciaga this is all the research i found using websites videos and books hopefully you can enjoy reading it and find out some interesting facts you didn't know before.

reference for the book : Emmanuelle Dirix. (2022). Little book of Balenciaga the story of the iconic fashion house. London: Welbeck. pp.9-13.

[fashionbooksmilano]

1920s Fashion

The Definitive Sourcebook

Charlotte Fiell    Introduction by Emmanuelle Dirix

Welbeck Publishing Group, London 2021, 511 pages, 19x24 cm., 500 photos and illus, ISBN  978-1787398870

euro 29,00

email if you want to buy :booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

'There isn't a more comprehensive source to Twenties fashion that I can think of ... An absolute must for anyone interested in Twenties fashion or art deco'  “Style High Club”

'A source of all the styles, colours, shapes, and silhouettes of the Golden Twenties'   ”Vogue”

From the glitz and glamour of the Roaring Twenties came a fashion revolution. 

The 1920s is a decade synonymous with social change, reflected in its groundbreaking fashions: from the daring elegance of the 'New Woman' to never-before-seen silhouettes, the styles of the Roaring Twenties still capture the imagination a century later.  Sumptuously illustrated with over 500 original photographs, sketches and prints, this extensive sourcebook documents the season-by-season fashions of the Jazz Age. Follow the evolving fashion trends and uncover a fascinating analysis of the progression from haute couture to ready-to-wear in this essential handbook for all fashion historians, students and vintage enthusiasts. 

Authored and edited by renowned design historian, Charlotte Fiell, this volume also contains an authoritative introduction by fashion historian Emmanuelle Dirix, as well as the biographies of the key designers and fashion houses of the period.

15/01/22

orders to: booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

ordini a: booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

twitter: @fashionbooksmi

instagram: fashionbooksmilano, designbooksmilano tumblr: fashionbooksmilano, designbooksmilano

[tinydooms]

I was tagged by @counterwiddershins

Last book I…

Bought: "Walt's Disneyland: A Walk in the Park With Walt Disney" by Marcey Carricker Smothers

Borrowed: "The Book of Cold Cases," by Simone St. James.

Was Gifted: "Bon Mots: Words of Wisdom from Diana Vreeland, Empress of Fashion," ed. Tim Vreeland

Gave/Lent to someone else: "Rebel Threads: Clothing of the Bad, Beautiful, and Misunderstood" by Roger K. Burton, to a pre-teen friend who is trying to develop her personal style

Started: "Witch Week" by Diana Wynne Jones

Finished: "Witch Week," by Diana Wynne Jones

Gave 5 Stars: "The Lives of Christopher Chant" by Diana Wynne Jones--actually, all of her Chrestomanci books are 5 star reads

Gave 2 Stars: "Eat Like Walt: The Wonderful World of Disney Food" by Marcey Carricker Smothers (too much talk, not enough recipes)

Didn’t Finish: "Dressing the Decades: 20th Century Vintage Style" by Emmanuelle Dirix.

Tagging @ricochetoconnell, @belphegor1982, @sweetfayetanner, @soubrettina and anyone else who wants to play.

[khorazir]

Enigma Research

Now that my Codebreaker/WW2 AU Enigma is finally, after almost four years and over 250k words, drawing to a close, I though it might be of interest to its readers and others who are writing fic set in this particular era to reveal some of my sources for the extensive research I undertook to learn more about the period and, hopefully, capture it adequately.

Huge gratitude goes to my brilliant beta rifleman_s who not only checked grammar and spelling (English not being my native language), but also offered valuable Brit-picking and, most importantly, fact checking when it came to historical accuracy. All remain inaccuracies or deliberate anachronisms are mine.

While I tried to stay true to historical events most of the time, in some instances I tweaked their timeline a little for dramatic effect or to better integrate them into the story. This is particularly relevant for the discovery of the German messages that opened the door to finally breaking the Lorenz Cipher. They were indeed intercepted in late August 1941, but of course their significance was not noticed by Jennifer Wilson, who is fictional. The explosion of a left-over bomb in Russell Square is fictional, too, although there were many similar occurrences all over London at the time.

A lucky guess was the address of Sherlock’s and John’s billet in Bletchley. Since the town looks a lot different now than it did in the 1940s (Milton Keynes, the town Bletchley is now a part of, didn’t even exist back then: it was built from 1967 onwards), I looked at old maps and aerial photographs, and decided that the oldest parts of the town must have been built along the major roads. I picked Buckingham Road, and was very pleased to discover during a later visit to the Bletchley Park Museum that there were indeed lodgings for staff of Station X on Buckingham Road.

Two other helpful factual sources were my two remaining grandparents: my maternal grandmother (born 1924) and paternal grandfather (born 1920) who, albeit not living in England at the time but in Germany, were invaluable when it came to remiscing about what life was like during WW2, as seen from both a soldier’s and a civilian’s perspective.

Apart from these helpers, I researched a lot, and enjoyed said research immensely. Here are some of my sources. I’m sure I forgot to list some, particularly those I consulted online. If you have questions about any of them, or my research or the fic in general, I’d be happy to answer them.

Films:

The Imitation Game (2015)

Enigma (2002, better than The Imitation Game at recreating the atmosphere of busy Bletchley Park during WW2)

Hope and Glory (1987, WW2 London seen through the eyes of a boy)

Atonement (2007)

Lady Henderson Presents (2006, Windmill Theatre)

The Landgirls (1997)

Dunkirk (2017)

Their Finest (2017)

Swing Kids (1993, 1940s swing music)

TV-series:

The Bletchley Circle (2012)

Small Island (2009)

Fleming (2013)

The Cambridge Spies (2003)

TV-documentaries:

Wartime Farm (2012, brilliant BBC documentary about everyday life in Wartime England)

Back in Time for Dinner (2015, BBC2)

Back in Time for Tea (2018, BBC2)

Wie ein Mathegenie Hitler knackte (2014, German documentary about Alan Turing, broadcast on French/German channel Arte)

Museums:

Bletchley Park (brilliant, brilliant museum, absolutely worth a visit)

Imperial War Museum, London

HMS Belfast, London

Museum of London

Victoria & Albert Museum (for 1940s fashion)

Churchill War Rooms, London

London Transport Museum

Literature:

McKay, Sinclair. The Lost World of Bletchley Park. London: Aurum. 2013

McKay, Sinclair. The Secret Lives of Codebreakers. London: Penguin. 2010

Smith, Michael. Bletchley Park: The Code-Breakers of Station X. Oxford: Shire. 2013

English Heritage. Bletchley Park: Home of the Codebreakers.

Imperial War Museum. HMS Belfast Guidebook. London: IWM. 2014

Dirix, Emmanuelle and Fiell, Charlotte. 1940s Fasion: The Definitive Sourcebook. London: Carlton. 2013

Shrimpton, Jayne. Fashion in the 1940s. Oxford: Shire. 2014

Lussier, Suzanne. Art Deco Fashion. London: V&A Publishing. 2009

DK. Fashion. London: DK. 2012

Noble, Christine. Portrait of an Era: An Illustrated History of Britain 1900 to 1945. London: Vivat Direct Limited. 2011

Ross, Cathy and Clark, John. London: The Illustrated History. London: Penguin. 2011

Winn, Christopher. I Never Knew That About London. London: Ebury Press. 2011

Geo Epoche Nr. 67. “Geheimdienste: Die Geschichte der Spionage”. Hamburg: Gruner & Jahr. 2014

Geo Epoche Nr. 43. “Der Zweite Weltkrieg: Teil 1 1939 – 1942”. Hamburg: Gruner & Jahr. 2010

Geo Epoche Nr. 44. “Der Zweite Weltkrieg: Teil 2 1943 – 1945”. Hamburg: Gruner & Jahr. 2010

Internet (selection):

Wikipedia (yeah, I know ... but it was very helpful for getting an overview over historical events and particularly the progress of codebreaking of both the Enigma and Lorenz Ciphers, John’s adventures in the North Atlantic, the various listening stations, etc.)

WW2 bombsites in London

Historical roadmaps

Wartime diet and rations

Wartime money

Historical photographs of Bletchley

London Necropolis Railway

John’s Naval uniform

People’s memories of WW2

Music of the 1930s and 40s

[earaercircular]

From 'dirty' to 'vintage': luxury embraces second-hand

For years they were like cat and dog. Luxury brands did not want to know anything about the second-hand sale of their clothing and accessories. Too little control, too little exclusive, too much mothball smell. But that period is over now.

The best selection, at the best prices. That is the way the online platform for second-hand designer clothes Grailed[1] praises itself. Vinted[2], but for luxury designer brands, with a focus on men. In a new round of investment, the site raised about $60 million last week.

The major investor is the luxury group Kering[3], that is owned by the Pinault family. Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and Gucci, among others, fall under the umbrella of the group. On Friday, Gucci also announced its new online concept store: in addition to new pieces, Vault also offers vintage, selected by Gucci designer Alessandro Michele. Gone are the days when luxury houses turned their noses up at vintage.

“Second-hand has always existed, although luxury houses have long resisted it,” says Emmanuelle Dirix, lecturer in fashion history and culture at the Academy in Antwerp. It is not illogical that large fashion houses did not want to know about it: brands that live on luxury and exclusivity were not set up with the idea that you could buy a 'real' design for less money.

In 2018, Chanel even filed a lawsuit against What Goes Around Comes Around[4]. The company, that sells second-hand clothing and accessories from luxury brands, lived on the reputation of luxury brands, according to Chanel. The brand denounced that counterfeits as 'true vintage' were also sold on the site – something that has been an thorn in the flesh of many luxury brands for years.

But the time when second-hand is 'dirty' is long gone. A younger generation that wants to buy brands is looking to second-hand online. The Realreal[5], Depop[6], Grailed, Vestiaire Collective[7]: online platforms for second-hand luxury goods have sprung up like mushrooms in recent years. A Boston Consulting study[8] estimates the industry's annual growth rate at 12 percent. In that context, the 3 percent growth of the 'normal' luxury segment appears to be small beer. Dirix: 'Simply put: if you can't beat them, join them'.

Fake

It also gives brands the opportunity to have more control over the second-hand sales of their own products. Grailed is working on an online authentication system, other sites such as Vestiaire Collective and Goat[9] work with 'specialists' who have to check items to prevent counterfeiting.

This is done by looking at the workmanship – so you need a small army of specialists – or by examining the labels in each item, where you can find out whether something is real on the basis of a type of 'serial numbers'. “But those databases are of course largely held by the brands, especially with older collections,” says Dirix.

More than that, it gives brands access to another market: young people who may not go to the Gucci store, but do buy brands online. Especially if it can be done cheaper. And even more valuable is that brands have access to a wealth of information about a younger clientele: what does a younger generation want, and which former pieces are worth dating up. Many sites such as Grailed are established for and by people who resell second-hand. That information is worth its weight in gold for many brands. Brands immediately adopt a new and greener image', thinks Dirix.

Surplus

Speaking of ecology, second-hand platforms are an excellent way for luxury brands to get rid of their unsold stock, Dirix thinks. Many luxury brands do not hold sales, for fear of destroying their own market. The only way to get rid of their surplus stock is through internal sales for their own staff – often with a maximum budget per employee, to avoid the clothing ending up en masse on the second-hand market.

Moreover, brands cannot and may not just destroy their unsold items. Especially since 2018, when it turned out that Burberry had burned $37 million worth of stuff in July that year, that has been monitored. In France it is even prohibited by law.

"I suspect that luxury concerns such as Kering may see a solution in this to get rid of those unsold items," says Dirix. ‘What is not sold now will be “vintage” in a few years. That might provide an answer to a very thorny issue for them.”

However, the prices on the second-hand sites are also not nothing: on Vault[10] you can quickly count 800 euros for a vintage Gucci. Dirix: 'Sites like Grailed aim at an audience that has enough purchasing power to buy a trendy vintage dress on a carefully curated platform. The site itself is almost already a “seal of approval”. These people are not fashion fanatics who feel like scouring tired second-hand shops or Ebay to find real gems for no money with a lot of patience and searching.'

Source

Karlien Beckers, Van ‘vies’ naar ‘vintage’: luxe omarmt tweedehands, in: De Standaard, 28-09-2021

[1] At its core, Grailed is a simple concept: It's a website and app for buying and selling high-end, secondhand menswear and streetwear. But the site offers much more. One can buy a piece one has been searching high and low for, stock up on basics one needs for the office, and discover new brands all in the same place. Grailed: Largest Online Marketplace to Buy & Sell Menswear [2] Vinted is an online marketplace based in Lithuania for buying, selling and exchanging new or secondhand items, mainly clothing and accessories. https://old.vinted.com/ [3] A global Luxury group, Kering manages the development of a series of renowned Houses in Fashion, Leather Goods, Jewelry and Watches: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Brioni, Boucheron, Pomellato, Dodo, Qeelin, Ulysse Nardin, Girard-Perregaux, as well as Kering Eyewear. Luxury Group Kering | Kering | Kering [4] Since 1993, when it opened its first store In New York City’s SoHo neighborhood, What Goes Around Comes Around (WGACA) has elevated traditional vintage shopping Into a high fashion experience. With additional flagships In Beverly Hills, WGACA Is an international destination for tastemakers, industry insiders and celebrities alike. What Goes Around Comes Around - Home (whatgoesaroundnyc.com) [5] The RealReal, Inc. is an online and brick-and-mortar marketplace for authenticated luxury consignment. Based on the circular economy, The RealReal sells consigned clothing, fine jewelry, watches, fine art and home decor. It employs an in-house staff of experts including horologists, gemologists, art curators and luxury fashion authenticators who inspect items for authenticity and value. https://www.therealreal.com/ [6] https://www.depop.com/ [7] https://fr.vestiairecollective.com/ [8] “The secondary market for luxury goods has always existed in the shadow of the primary market,” according to a report from the Boston Consulting Group, but that is beginning to change as demand for discounted pre-owned goods is giving rise to “one of the fastest-growing areas of luxury.” The management consulting firm estimates that luxury resale will grow at an average rate of 12 percent per year through 2021 to a whopping $36 billion market with a 9 percent share of the personal luxury goods segment. That is quite a bit larger than the 3 percent growth rate for the primary luxury market for that same period of time. The Luxury Resale Market is Growing Faster than the Primary Luxury Goods Segment, Per BCG - The Fashion Law [9] https://www.goat.com/ [10] Designer clothing has always made its wearer feel good, and Vault menswear has been founded on the core belief that “looking good is feeling good” to people this is not just a strap line, but a principle with its stock of on trend designer clothing such as Pre Londo and the classic heritage brands like Lacoste the company fulfills this through our product. Below is a small sample of the brands the platform offers: Luke1977, Lacoste, EA7, Mark Darcy, Fred Perry, Kings Will Dream, Pre London, Sik Silk Vault Menswear | Mens Designer Clothing | Doncaster

[lunaeclipse-world]

HIGH RESOLUTION COLOR, 1940s War time Utility fashion – Charlotte Fiell and Emma… HIGH RESOLUTION COLOR, 1940s War time Utility fashion - Charlotte Fiell and Emmanuelle Dirix Source by lindellknits

[adoorninc]

Intergalactic Inspiration

Emmanuelle Dirix’s new book, Fashion in the '70s pays homage to André Courrèges, the French designer known for creating the space age sartorial trend. As an engineering graduate Courrèges silhouettes were architectural, encompassing boots, goggles and boxy dresses in stark white and metallic hues. The vintage photos of Courrèges’ collections are just as spectacular, as his creations. During the 1960s Courrèges began crafting garments with unorthodox materials such as high-shine fabrics and PVC instead of using traditional fabrics. Following Neil Armstrong landing on the moon in 1969, Courrèges honored this historical moment by pioneering intergalactic inspired ensembles including mirror-disc stamped overalls and other pieces with a futuristic aesthetic, all of which he preserved in his motifs throughout the 1970s.

André Courrèges, 1972

André Courrèges, 1972

André Courrèges, 1972

André Courrèges, 1973

André Courrèges, 1973

André Courrèges | Hyperbole Label, 1973

[professorpski]

A delightful indulgence of 1930s fashion pictures, over 500 pages.

When I teach on the history of fashion, I have my students use the thrifty Dover editions of Sears catalogs, but I splurged on this pricier volume for myself edited by Charlotte Fiell & Emmanuelle Dirix (My copy is entitled 1930s Fashion: The Definitive Source Book, but with the same cover). Almost all of the hundreds of illustrations are in color, although the photographs. many of actresses, are necessarily black and white. It's organized by Daywear, Outerwear, etc., but not by year, so you will find yourself bouncing backwards and forwards in time which, you can imagine, makes a historian a little crazy. But this is a small complaint about a volume containing a wealth of images, ideas, and color schemes. Since 1930s fashions welcomed back the womanly figure and generated  an inspiring assortment of details, I will spend many an afternoon exploring this fascinating book.     

[kitsunetsuki]

Paco Rabanne, 1972, from Fashion in the '70s by Emmanuelle Dirix (2014)

[marketingaveclillie]

Cristobal Balenciaga is the original designer from Spain and eventually moved to Paris during the civil war then his career was able to take off

Emmanuelle Dirix. (2022). Little book of Balenciaga the story of the iconic fashion house. London: Welbeck. pp.9-13.

[fashionbooksmilano]

1940s Fashion

The Definitive Sourcebook

Charlotte Fiell    Introduction by Emmanuelle Dirix

Welbeck Publishing Group, London 2021, 512 pages,  600 photos and illus,   19x24 cm., ISBN  9781787398917

euro 29,00

email if you want to buy :booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

From the ashes of the Second World War came forward-thinking fashions, the likes of which had never been seen before.  The early Forties were defined by thriftiness and practicality, a make-do-and-mend attitude in a time of war. However, the latter half of the decade saw the emergence of the traditional femininity, elegance and luxury often associated with the era. Spanning the austerity of the war years to the introduction of Dior's revolutionary New Look, this extensive survey brings together vintage photography and illustrations to follow the season-by-season fashion evolution of the Forties, providing a comprehensive overview of this period of contrasts. 1940s Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook covers every aspect of female fashions from the decade, from lace evening gowns, tailored jackets and furs to figure-sculpting undergarments, satin negligees and scandalous bikinis, offering the most comprehensive appraisal of this age of wartime and post-war glamour. This in-depth look at the styles and trends that shaped 1940s fashion features images of the decade's most iconic stars and designers. Stylish leading ladies such as Veronica Lake, Joan Bennett and Barbara Stanwyck are included as well as designs by Dior, Lucien Lelong, Balmain and Worth.  Authored and edited by renowned design historian, Charlotte Fiell, this volume also contains an authoritative introduction by fashion historian, Emmanuelle Dirix, as well as the biographies of the key designers and fashion houses of the period.

15/01/22

orders to: booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

ordini a: booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

twitter: @fashionbooksmi

instagram: fashionbooksmilano, designbooksmilano tumblr: fashionbooksmilano, designbooksmilano

[kitsunetsuki]

Jean Allen, 1974, from Fashion in the '70s by Emmanuelle Dirix (2014)

[kitsunetsuki]

Roger Vivier, 1971, from Fashion in the '70s by Emmanuelle Dirix (2014)

[kitsunetsuki]

Rico Puhlmann - from Fashion in the '70s by Emmanuelle Dirix (2014)