#Coptic fashion

[bijoumikhawal]

Some Coptic Shawls

This shawl is from the 9th or 10th century, and contains tapestry woven bands of Coptic script and kufic tiraz that can't actually be read.

I'm actually unsure about the details of this shawl as it's images are mixed up with the former shawl. It has a line of kufic tiraz and a tapestry woven strip with birds and an abstract medallion.

This shawl is from the 8th or 9th century. It has several stripes. It has stripes of floral and foliate designs, alongside two inscriptions in Arabic and Coptic. I'm not sure what the center stripe is, but I think it might be Acanthus leaves? They sometimes show up in Coptic textiles as a sort of curved w shape, as do some other leaf patterns. Acanthus leaves are associated with immortality, rebirth, and resurrection, but in Coptic art I've seen them associated with peace and heavenly gardens.

This shawl is from the 8th or 9th century. The center stripe has birds and a little lizardy looking creature I cant identify, as well as some more geometric/abstract designs. The Coptic cross appears in simplified form at the start of a Coptic inscription.

A similar shawl from the Louvre, with no detail images and frustratingly unspecified dating.

This shawl is from around 640-660. The MET has identified it as a wall hanging, but the composition of images in bands and segments resembles clothes I've seen more than a wall hanging. Each of the 5 medallions depicts Amazon women. Typically Amazons in this era of Coptic textile are on horseback, trampling a beast as they draw their bows. These have baskets of fruit under their horses instead and no bows, but retain the pose as though they were drawing. The bands show the bust of a man (possibly a personification of the Earth, Ge), riders holding wreaths, figures carrying food, birds, fish, and geometric patterns. Many of these motifs were found around the Mediterranean at the time, and would've been rather secular. The particular usage here is inviling the idea of abundance. This item would've been very expensive. The MET identifies it as Islamic, but I am not convinced as there are no explicitly Islamic motifs, and this was the very beginning of Muslim presence in Egypt. Further, personifying the Earth as a male is in line with Coptic culture, and it's recontextualizing of pagan figures and imagery to suit a Christian philosophy at this time. We don't know much about Pre-Islamic gods, but I don't know of an earth diety, male or female, and to reference such a figure in an Islamic art piece seems rather strange to me?

This is another "hanging" I think may be a shawl, from the 4th or 5th century. It depicts putti picking grapes. The symbolism of grapes in Christianity is fairly well known, and those associations hold true here- Jesus, Mary, and Communion. It's a very pious design, and because if the activity of harvest, it may have also been chosen for an association with abundance.

A third shawl/hanging. This is from the Fatimid era and I have no further information other than the Louvre saying its Coptic, nor a better photo.

The shawl of Sabine, 4th or 5th century. This is one of many pieces taken from Antinoë/Antinopolis by Gayet, who I consider to be a prolific grave robber. Unlike many garments he likely took, we know that this shawl belonged to a woman named Sabine. She was buried with it wrapped around her shoulders. The center medallion depicts Bellerophon and Perseus trampling the Chimera, bordered with a Nilotic scene of boys, fish, and lotuses. The bands are a continuation of this motif, with the addition of crocodiles and boats. The right medallion is of Apollo and Daphne. Daphne holds out a cross shaped flower to Apollo. The left is of an female archer who has killed a lion- perhaps Artemis, who interestingly, does not show up often in Late Antique Coptic art. The scattered design elements are winged figures, more lotuses. The boys and winged figures sometimes carry large shells and wreaths. It is proposed that the shawl originally was a wall hanging.

A possible shawl fragment with a striped design of grapes and flowers. These flowers may be roses, or they may be a generic "flower" shape. Some flowers identified as roses in Coptic textile I actually believe are lotuses, but I don't believe that is the case here.

A shawl from somewhere between the 7th and 9th century, made of embroidered linen. The pattern is of stylized leaves, buds, flowers, and abstract medallions.

This shawl is from the 3rd or 4th century. It has some pinstripes and what I think may be a grape leaf, though typically Coptic textiles from this period depict grape leaves more realistically, with five lobes.

In this image shows how shawls may have commonly been worn in Late Antique Egypt. It is possible there were further variations in wearing, as ultimately here all three figures are wearing the shawl draped over their shoulder, behind them, under the opposite arm, and over the first shoulder or arm, with women lifting it up to cover the head too.

This shawl may not be Coptic specifically. Some records indicate tulle bi telli shawls used to be made such that humanoid figures only appeared on shawls made by Copts, whereas Muslim Egyptians would use geometric designs, but this does not seem to be the case today. These shawls were often traditionally made by girls for their weddings, and all the patterns reflect the wishes and hopes of the girl for her marriage and wedding night. The technique of using metal strip embroidery comes from Turkey, where it is known as tel kirma, or from India, where it is known as mukaish or muqayyash, which is said to have been invented by Noor Jahan. I actually know a Copt whose family traditionally made a living through producing textiles such as tulle bi telli. Despite the secular importance of tulle bi telli, these shawls are sometimes called Coptic shawls. According to the British Museum, these shawls were originally a Coptic speciality, so this may be the origin of the confusing name.

This style of shawl is modern, and typically worn by monks. I believe this style came from Ethiopia, because thats what I've been told by another Copt, and I've at least seen Ethiopian clergy wear it. Fun fact: Egyptian and Ethiopian Orthodox Christians were part of the same church until VERY recently. This isn't especially obvious in all the customs of both groups, but it does mean Copts and Ethiopian Christians celebrate the same New Year, which also makes sense because of the agricultural roots of the date involving the Inundation of the Nile.

[folkfashion]

Coptic groom and priest, Egypt, by The Bleu Studio

[citedesdames]

robe decorated with embroidery of female saints from the Coptic art section, Byzantine and Christian Museum, Athens

[dustedmagazine]

Emahoy Tsegué Mariam Gebru — Jerusalem/S-T (Mississippi)

Jerusalem by Emahoy Tsege Mariam Gebru

Emahoy Tsegué Mariam Gebru passed away on March 26, 2023 at age 99. She led an extraordinary life (readers are urged to consult Sound Within Sound: Opening Our Ears to the Twentieth Century by Kate Molleson (Faber) for a revealing chapter on her work). It culminated with her becoming a nun in Ethiopia. She continued to make music, idiosyncratic piano compositions that were a melange of styles: French Impressionism, Chopin-esque Romanticism, Ethiopian Coptic liturgical music, traditional music of Africa, and the light pop of mid-century teahouses. Despite its unorthodox pedigree, Gebru’s has snuck into popular awareness via arthouse film soundtracks, and even an Amazon advertisement.

For a long time, her music was elusive on record, leading to Discogs bidding wars. Over the years, short runs of her music were released in Germany to benefit various philanthropic causes, but Gebru had no commercial ambitions. Mississippi Records has recently released two LPs collecting a number of Gebru’s performances: Emahoy Tsegué Mariam Gebru commemorated her 99th birthday in December 2022 and Jerusalem was released close to her death. 

The title track of Jerusalem reveals Gebru’s playing style. Mid-register chords accompany highly ornamented melodies in modular, waltz-like sections. “Movement from Rainbow Sonata” channels early Romanticism alongside her use of Ethiopian scale patterns. “Aurora” is a delicate salon piece that bridges the classical and early popular genres in her music. 

The self-titled LP has some excellent discoveries on it. “Mother’s Love” plays with arpeggiations in a fashion reminiscent of early jazz a la Zezz Confrey. “Golgotha” is a minor key rumination on the story from Holy Week. Its companion piece is “The Garden of Gethsemane.” In both, there is a great deal of call and response between the hands. “Son of the Sea” is an extended impressionist excursion in which one can hear Gebru’s affinity for the music of Debussy and Satie. It imitates the rocking of ocean waters and crashing of waves and features a plaintive call above them. 

“Quand la Mer Furiese” is the sole vocal cut on either of the recordings. In addition to being Mississippi's leadoff single for Jerusalem it serves as a taster course for an all-vocal LP planned for the Fall of 2023. If the song is any indication, listeners are in for a captivating musical experience. 

Christian Carey

[manmetaphysical]

Tomorrow, 21st November, is the solar return of Icelandic singer Björk who is a triple Scorpio- a 'strange fascinator'. So here's a full analysis of her chart along with asteroids and dwarf planets. It's split into parts so here is Part 5 as an example.

5: The Call to the Sacred Shimmering

Photo credit :Bjork Face Book post on the ‘Cornucopia’  Book release (October 8th, 2024)

Polyhymnia is the muse of sacred and choral music and her prominence in Björk’s chart validates the search for these lesser-known asteroids- as there she is prominently conjunct Bjork’s Venus in Capricorn. That is an outstanding connection to have for a musician. Venus is the love of art and beauty and in Capricorn is classy, status conscious, professional and tends to age very well, but with this added touch of the sacred includes yearning for the ineffable, the celestial, which brings about a purer and more mystical state of mind. That gives stature and gravitas to the lush style of a classical composer to all the string arrangements she weaves into her songs. Sometimes this orchestal sound is when she uses the Sibelius computer software and other times, it involves actually being accompanied by the Brodsky Quartet or a clarinet sextet as on the album Fossora (2022).

In 1999 Börk was selected by British composer John Taverner to premier a 15-minute version of a spiritual and devotional piece of music,  ‘A Prayer of the Heart’ which is Kyrie Eleison sung in Greek, Coptic and English. Tavener has a powerful kite formation in his chart and the asteroid of sacred music Polyhymnia is conjunct Chiron in mid-Virgo which just happens to conjunct Björk’s Pluto/Uranus so this was a good collaboration. Thrown into the mix here with Bjork’s Venus with Polyhymia by degree are the asteroids Kaali and the asteroid of the poet Sappho. Sappho gives the personal ‘intimate’ touch to the sacred sound implying there is no difference between lower and higher for her.

If this is reflected in her art then visuals predominate almost as much as sound in her work. She has had some extraordinary looks as she is somewhat of a total performer using multi-media and costume to paintbrush her ideas as visual metaphors. Sometimes this is not subtle at all as with the caterpillar dress, but somehow you never question her honesty in attempting the unthinkable. She has in her time been linked to numerous fashion designers from Junya Watanabe, Hussein Chalayan, Olivier Roustieng, Iris van Herpen and especially to Alexander McQueen who created one of her most iconic looks for the album cover for Homogenic. She is also associated with several musician lovers/frieds Tricky, Damon Albarn, Thom Yorke, Goldie and surrealist artist and video maker Matthew Barney of the Cremaster video series. All her other collaborations are too numerous to mention.  

[busaccagallery]

Rare Handmade Coptic Leather Antique Egyptian Gilded Slipper Shoe 🔥 See the great story and wonderful video at 🔥 BusaccaGallery.com 🔥

Coptic leather shoes are a traditional type of footwear that originated in ancient Egypt during the Coptic period, which lasted from the 2nd century AD to the 11th century AD. These shoes were typically made by hand using leather, and were often adorned with intricate designs and gilded details. Coptic leather shoes were worn by both men and women, and were considered to be a status symbol due to the time and skill required to create them. Today, Coptic leather shoes are considered to be a valuable and unique piece of Egyptian cultural heritage, and can be found in museums and private collections around the world.

#Ancient #AncientLeather #AncientArt #AncientDesign #Artifact #AncientArtifact #AncientFashion #Fashion #OldFashion #AntiqueArt #Collectible #Collections #AncientCollections #AncientDecor #LeatherWork #LeatherArt #LeatherFashionArt #Accessories #AncientAccessories #AntiqueAccessories

[101now]

Most beautiful women smiling in hijab from Cairo Egypt Egyptian women DATING LOVE 101now.com

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[memnesomai]

xi.xxix.mmxxii

1105 reviews today. New additions:

Latin

Refactored all the cards for chapter 3 of LLPSI. Because these are all old hat, I set them all to be due at a random point in the next three days, starting tomorrow. I have also started doing this for Ancient Greek, in a less-ordered fashion, for which no truly new cards were added. From this point forward the main task is to get through all the vocab in both volumes of LLPSI and the Italian Athenaze, which vocabulary will therefore not be noted.

Coptic

Added ⲛ̄ⲕⲟⲧⲕ̄ 'to lie down, pass away', ⲕⲁϩ (m.) 'the earth, ground', ⲙⲛ̄ⲛ̄ⲥⲁ 'after (prep.)', and ⲙⲛ̄ⲛ̄ⲥⲱⲥ 'afterwards (adv.)', plus bound forms for several prepositions already known. An increasingly large number of Coptic notes are being converted to type-in-the-answer cards for the English → Coptic direction, as I have a hard time getting them to stick. We could go faster wrt vocab input going forward and probably will.

Sanskrit

Added uj:jā́yate 'to spring from (+abl.)', pra:bhávati 'to arise; to rule', anujñā (f.) 'permission', vásati (f.--nota bene this is a noun) 'a sojourn, visit, dwelling', kródha (m.) 'anger', mahārājá (m.) 'great king, emperor', and cā́ru/-u/-u 'beautiful'.

Hebrew

Refactored an old card (for בַּ֫יִת 'house') into separate cards for the citation form, plural and singular construct. (edit, 6:50 PM: decided to add a few grammar cards for the possessive suffixes on nouns and the 3rd-person imperfects of qal verbs; almost the entire deck is vocabulary, not grammar. Since the usual example for possessives is סוּס 'horse', that has also been added. This has brought my Hebrew deck to over 1000 cards, though of course many lemmata have more than two cards associated with them.)

[bijoumikhawal]

Silk and Telli embroidered dresses from Upper Egypt, Costumes of Egypt: The Lost Legacies by Shahira Mehrez.

She identifies these all as being "red" embroidery, but in many images the color reads as pink or purple instead; this could be that the dresses are old enough that the dye faded, or some struggle with photographing the color happened.

The honey comb motif is similar to medieval textile fragments. Mehrez identifies the trefoils here with the embroidery of some Coptic tunics from the Fatimid era, and notes they sometimes are used to crown saints in Coptic embroideries.

[folkfashion]

Coptic Pope, Shenouda III, Egypt, by Ben Curtis

[kiwibes]

For all the historical fashion bae´s out there: Coptic tunica in a museum I visited today!

Coptic tunica out of flax with decorations in wool. This model was probably common in the late Roman and early Christian era. Several could be worn at once. They are woven in one piece, from sleeve to sleeve, so the only seams are at the sides.

Example of such a garment on a mosaic:

[aqueervenus]

A Brief Review of Biblical and Medieval Textiles through an Analysis of "Mourning Virgin"

A Brief Review of Biblical and Medieval Textiles through an Analysis of “Mourning Virgin”

  Mourning Virgin                      The MET

Mourning Virgin is one of two wood figurines flanking either side of a doorway at the MET Cloisters museum (I.D. 12.200.2). At about 4 feet, 3 inches high, this is a relatively small art work. This sculpture is from the 13th Century and comes from Tyrol, Austria, by an unknown artist. Originally, this piece with it’s partner, Saint John the Evangelist

[blkgrlfly]

Grossè (2018) Razia O’Bryant

[mscoyditch]

"A 4th-5th Century CE, colorful coptic child's sock from Al Fayyūm, Egypt. Made of wool - nalbinding technique (single needle looping)". -Royal Ontario Museum

> Debra Givens > Vintage Fashion uncovered

[rudjedet]

do you know what ancient Egyptians would wear in the cold? Or any resources where I could fine information on this? I’ve tried looking it up but I can’t find anything, I would assume that this type of clothing did exist though because I know it gets super cold in the desert at night (although I don’t know how much the climate has changed since then or how cold areas closer to the Nile/Mediterranean are), I wouldn’t imagine textiles from that long ago would still exist and I’ve never seen any art with heavier clothing, although I have seen clothes from the Coptic era (if that’s the right thing to call it) that did seem heavier but were probably worn year round for protection from the sun potentially? Sorry I feel like I’m rambling all my thoughts loll

No worries, you're perfectly clear to me!

The short answer is that we have textual and pictographic evidence that the Egyptians had and wore cloaks, which by and large would have been rectangular sheets of fabric and which were either wrapped, draped, or tied.

The longer answer is that there's relatively little evidence, but the evidence we do have shows potential different cuts and different ways of wearing of cloaks as well as shorter shawls. It's assumed that the cloaks may have doubled as blankets, but since we don't have any unequivocal extant examples we're not sure of that, nor of what material these as a rule were made of - or even if people would have owned different cloaks of different materials. By and large, textiles were made of linen or other types of plant fibre. Linen doesn't, however, take dye well and we do have depictions of colourful cloaks. If the depictions of those cloaks are true to reality it's possible that we may be looking at wool, which does take dye.

As with most ancient Egyptian clothing items, the style of wear would be subject to change and fashions throughout time. In the Old Kingdom, cloaks would be wrapped around both shoulders. You can see this style in the statue of princess Nofret:

Her cloak is relatively simple and wrapped around her shoulders, pulled together at the front. The fabric, at least at is is portrayed here, looks plain and smoothed. Ancient Egyptians didn't use a lot of dyed fabrics: in general, items of clothing were kept either their natural colour, or bleached white. Decoration would come from jewellery, as we can see in the way Nofret's necklace is the focal point of her attire.

In the Middle and New Kingdoms you see styles that are slightly more elaborate in that they could be knotted or were worn under one arm with the excess thrown over the other shoulder, like this relief of Ukh-hotep from his Middle Kingdom tomb in Meir:

The cloak is either striped or pleated. After the Old Kingdom pleated fabrics came in fashion, a style that reached peak popularity in the New Kingdom.

We also have this interesting relief showing three types of cloaks held up by six people, from the mastaba of Kha'afkhufu:

There's a similar relief in another tomb that shows the most-left cloak.

We have examples of other styles, such as (shorter) cloaks and shawls that didn't have the longer strip on the topside as we see in the relief above but which were tied on one shoulder, or cloaks that were extremely elaborately wrapped, which required a much larger length of fabric than would conceivably be useful for a blanket. So in a number of cases, cloaks seemed to have been separate fabrics items on their own. All of this is, however, information from the highest social strata of Egyptians and we should consider it as such. The working class had less access to linen and would by and large wear clothing made from reed and papyrus. It's conceivable that the double use of cloak/blanket was more prevalent among them.

[thecairomuse]

would you mind sharing topics you like to educate yourself on?

Good question!

Long story short, everything! but that's not what you came here for, is it? But I will say that there's nothing I've said no to learning; reminds me of the summer that I spent learning Arabic sign language, that was fun. Anyways

Film! oh my god, I love studying films from different eras and different countries and the different film movements worldwide. Love love love international cinema. The impact of film on politics and culture. Also have to add I have a particular interest in Egyptian/ Arabic and Persian films.

Astronomy, it's fascinating and one of those things that you could have a long convo on

Mediterranean civilization, such an interesting place

The different wars

Emerging technologies, any and all of them

Judaism in Egypt and the history of jews in Egypt.

actually, I like to to know about all the religions in Egypt

Human rights in different countries, and the human rights trends in different countries over time

US politics, just one of those things

Egyptian politics, pretty self explanatory

Psychology, I have a few friends who are really into psych and I love listening to them ramble about social conformity and whatnot

Tourism, it's always good to know where to go and also the impact of internal and external politics on tourism, why tourism in higher in certain cities/ countries than other

Math, and it's history, why certain equations 'work' the way they do that sort of thing

US invasions

The classics (literature), I like to think they're classics for a reason

Arabic and Persian literature

Physics, I love watching my friends answer physics questions and sometimes even help :)

Nutrition and fitness, it's just helpful to know

Music, the different eras, genres and the history is super interesting.

(political) Ideologies, how do you know what you believe if you don't know what there is to believe? Also I enjoy reading about the different ideological trends in history and what inspired them (think the rise of socialism and pan-arabism in Egypt in the 50s due to British occupation, that sort of thing)

A little bit of Coptic Art

Philosophy, there's more to it than metaphysics and can be quite helpful esp since I love math

Monarchies and their fall, also the different marriages between different monarchies and their impact on history

The Egyptian constitution

Egyptian history, especially the history of modern Egypt, but Ancient Egypt is cool too

Migration patterns, why certain ethnic groups exist in certain countries and how migration has impacted ideologies in different countries

Different religions and why they are more prominent in certain regions than others, their spread and also their fall(is that the right word)? think Catholicism replacing Islam in Andalusia (Spain and Portugal)

Alliances and treaties

Fashion history. The different designers. different eras. and especially how politics and economics impact fashion

Communism and the soviet union and it's aftermath and the way it allowed religion to 'flourish' (more like spread) in former soviet countries

Geography, it's more than earthquakes and volcanos

Colonialism

Egypt-Greece relations

WW2 and it's aftermath, also it's impact on tech

revolutions and resistance movements, Lebanon is piquing my interest now

There's probably more but I can't think of anything else off the top of my head. It's important to note that I am not a robot who spends hours researching these topics there are def somethings on here that I am more intreated in than others and that I spend more time learning about than others. Also lots of these topics are related to each other in about a million ways which makes it easier to learn about them.

But honestly I love to learn from the people around me more; I know lots of people from India, Venezuela,Pakistan, Canada, Japan, Lebanon, Turkey, Russia, Syria, Ireland, Britain, Morocco, South Africa, Brazil, France, Colombia, etc. and they all follow different religions and believe in different ideologies and are interested in different things and have had very different life experiences and I think that I can learn something different from each one of them. Like do you know how great it is to be able to talk to a Venezuelan about socialism? Just last week I was talking about marriage with these 2 girls one from Pakistan and one from Brazil and it was interesting to see their different views on the subject and also how their views have changed with their experiences and how their views are similar/ different to their parents. I have a friend that can tell me everything I want to know about communism in India. And like I mentioned above I have lots of friend who are interested in psych and one of them was talking to me about social conformity during the covid era. Point is, there's lots to learn from the people around you.

Also, non-fiction books, and fiction for that matter are really good. Also the lessons that are well learnt are those learnt from experience so live a little and be open to new experiences and opportunities.