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[just-my-latest-hyperfixation]

Baby, it's cold outside

Written for the @steddieholidaydrabbles, day 27

Prompt: Coffee shop/bookstore/tattoo studio AU

Rated: M

CW: Alcohol; Implied sex

Tags: Coffee shop owner Steve; Tattoo studio owner Eddie; Christmas fluff; Flirting; Sexual tension; Getting together

Notes: Continued from my December microfic, but can also stand alone

Eddie swivels morosely in his desk chair, stretches until something in his lower back pops. He glances out the window and immediately regrets it. If anything, the snow has gotten worse, the dark street outside near invisible behind the curtain of flakes that's been falling for hours. 

The blizzard hit just in time for Christmas, grinding all air traffic and most of the roads to a standstill. Eddie called Wayne to break the news, groaning and grumbling all the way, only to be gruffly told off.

“Ain't nothing to be done about it, kiddo. You be safe and I'll see ya when it clears.” 

He was right, of course, the old shit. Eddie is a sensible adult who knows this. And so he holed up at the tattoo studio for some long overdue paperwork. A perfectly reasonable, adult thing to do on a lonely holiday.

Except it's boring as fuck and his back hurts and the cold is creeping in from outside and now he's feeling like a little boy who's had Christmas stolen by the fucking Grinch. 

To top things off, he isn't even sure he'll make it back to his apartment with how things are looking outside.

He's just resigning himself to a night on the foldout in his office when there's a sharp rap against the front door. Eddie almost falls out of his chair. 

“Jesus fuck-” he mutters, bridging the distance and fumbling to unlock the door. “What the hell are you doing?” 

Steve stomps inside, shaking off snow as he goes. Even though it isn't more than a few steps from his door to Eddie’s, he's positively covered in the stuff, hair weighed down and uncharacteristically droopy. Cradled against the chest of his cable-knit sweater is a tray. Eddie spots cookies and two mugs overflowing with copious amounts of whipped cream. 

He watches how Steve sets the tray down on the table in his waiting area and runs his hands through his hair to get the residue snowflakes out. It leaves him looking deliciously disheveled, all mussed-up strands, golden skin flushed pink from the cold. Eddie finds his mouth watering for reasons not exclusively related to the scents wafting off the tray.

Steve is looking at him, like he's waiting for an answer, and shit, he said something, didn't he?

“Sorry, what?” Eddie asks. 

“I said,” Steve shakes his head, but there's no malice behind it. “Dig in, it's not getting any warmer.” 

Eddie crumples down onto the couch, hides his face behind one of the mugs … and blinks in surprise.

“Alcohol?” 

“Grand Marnier,” Steve says, settling down beside him and taking the other mug. Eddie has no idea what the fuck that means. Somehow though, the way the words tumble off Steve’s tongue, low and rumbly and distinctly French, really does it for him, so he doesn't complain. 

“Cheers,” he says and clanks their mugs together before taking a tentative sip. A firework of flavors bursts across his tongue - bitter coffee and thick, sweet cream and something heady and boozy and orange-flavored? 

“Good?”

“So fucking good, dude!” 

Behind his own mug, Steve's mouth tugs into a smile. Eddie isn’t quite sure if the heady rush that floods him is entirely due to the coffee. 

*

“Soooo,” Eddie slurs. The boozy coffee is long gone, as is the second helping Steve got from his shop. He's brought the entire bottle of the fancy French, orangey stuff though, pretty little genius that he is. Eddie giggles and takes another swig. “How c’me you're even here, huh? No family to visit, no girls to kiss under mistletoes?” 

“Have you looked outside?” Steve snorts, swaying into his space to snatch the bottle back. God he is pretty - cheeks flushed from the alcohol, cookie crumbs at the corners of his mouth. All Eddie would need to do is twist his fingers into that preppy sweater of his, yank him closer. Lick them off. 

“-not exactly on visiting terms with my folks,” Steve is saying and Eddie jerks back to attention. “Or speaking terms. My best friend was gonna visit, but I think she'd end me if I so much as brought a mistletoe near her. Anyhow, she can't come, what with the blizzard and all…” 

“So what?” Eddie grins, tongue loosened by alcohol and sugar and the way the light brings out the gold in Steve’s hair and eyes. “You decided to drop by out of the goodness of your heart and save my holiday like some perfect little Christmas angel?” 

Steve blinks. Averts his eyes. Flushes a whole new shade of pink. It blooms on top of the blush that has settled over his nose and cheekbones, like a fresh layer of color on a painting. Eddie thinks of all the other parts of Steve’s body he'd like to paint like this.

“Whatever,” Steve mumbles, “Just thought we'd both feel less alone, if- … It's getting late, I'd better-” 

“Go?” Eddie catches the sleeve of his sweater just as he's about to stand. Steve falls back into the couch. “Where? You're not gonna trudge home through that weather, are you?” 

Steve licks his lips, pink and glossy. Eddie wonders if they still taste like coffee and cream and oranges. His fingers find the soft skin of Steve's wrist under the hem of the sweater. 

“Just stay. You're right, I don't feel like being alone tonight.” 

“Stop it,” Steve's eyes are impossibly bright in the low light. “Please, I … I'll put up with your teasing any other day of the year, but not today.” 

“Steve …” Eddie rumbles. The heartbeat under his fingers flutters. “Stay … and I'll show you how serious I am.” 

He leans in, breathes his next words against the shell of a pink ear. “If you wanna, I'll even call you angel again.” 

They do end up using the foldout, the cold quickly forgotten.

All my holiday drabbles

[bomberqueen17]

backsplash

ok so after they put the countertops in, it was time to tile the backsplash, and install the last cabinet, which rests on top of the counter in the corner.

"I don't remember what color tile we picked," I said.

Jim laughed, and got one of the tiles out, and laid it on the counter.

"Oh," I said, "right. Yeah."

[image description: a white tile. It's a white tile. Lying on the new white countertop.]

In my defense. It's a glossy white subway tile, but it matches the white in the countertop, and it also has a subtle undulating texture.

They covered the countertops with a dropcloth and taped-down thin cardboard (just like the taped-down cardboard they've covered the floor with since it was installed), brought in a tile saw, and set to work.

[image description: my in-progress kitchen, with a Ridgid brand tile saw set up on a plastic tray on the new counter in front of the bay window, and tools spread out across the rest of the counter. Max is laying out tile along the north wall, and the foreground is my stove, covered in a towel, being a surface for tools to lie on.]

Max found the center line of where the stove is going to be installed, and spaced the tiles based on that. I figured they'd start at one end and work over but no! They start from a center line and work out. The tile is going to the ceiling above the stove, so that was their center line, even though it's not anywhere near the middle of the wall.

[Image description: Max is bent over facing away, and has just placed the first tile in the center of a piece of trim mounted behind where the stove is going to go, after covering the whole wall in whatever the stuff is that you stick tiles to. Above him is the square of plywood that the stove fume hood is going to get mounted into.]

Meanwhile, Jim had retrieved the last remaining cupboard from the living room. It is meant to rest atop the countertop, over in the corner. The electrician had accidentally installed an outlet in that corner, and when he discovered his mistake, Jim suggested just leaving it there anyway and cutting a hole in the back of the cabinet to accomodate it. So I said sure, and now Jim was slightly moving the outlet to fit, and then sawing the hole out of the back of the cabinet. He got it all nicely lined up, and then he and Max went to lift the cabinet up onto the countertop and there wasn't clearance, so he had to uninstall the LED light fixture there. Which was fantastic, as now I know how they go in and how they come out, and he also showed me that there's a set of switches in there-- if I want, I can pull all six of them out and change their intensity and color temperature, because there are five total settings! Wild. Now I know!

Anyway he got the cabinet into position and attached it and installed the outlet, which was pretty cool.

[image description: The north wall of my kitchen. On the left, Max is tiling; in the center, there's a pyramid shape of the tiling in progress, where he's done a line all along the bottom where the stove will sit, and then has worked up from there. To the right, a sunbeam is coming in the bay window and illuminating the glorious warm-birch interior of the cupboard, which doesn't have doors on at the moment, and in its lower right corner it has an electrical outlet nestled in position just above the bottom drawer.]

I'm going to make a lil basket of some kind (possibly with a grid bottom for air flow? or maybe i'll just use a wire basket to begin with?) along which I'm going to clamp a bunch of Managed Cables with a variety of ends on them so I can throw Devices in there to be Charged, neatly and out of sight. Temperature management is going to be important though, lithium batteries get warm when they charge, so i'm going to have to give that some consideration. I wonder if I can construct some sort of heat sink. Well, I won't have too many things in there probably, so it won't be critical. Maybe I'll get a spare like, wire cookie cooling rack and have that be the surface the charging items lie on.

[Image description: A close shot along the north wall, showing the textured surface of the tiles. There are little plastic spacers at short intervals sticking out of them, and an outlet is sort of poking out of the wall with the faceplate off; tools lie on the cardboard-covered countertop, and in the center of the photo is the blue-gray side of the cabinet installed against the east wall.]

It suddenly has gone from a construction site to looking like a kitchen that like, tasteful, normal adult people would have.

[image description: a text message from Dude, to whom I'd been sending photos. Dude: it's starting to look like a regular person's kitchen me: It suuuuper is Dude: gonna have to find some way to get weird with it me: Well. Yeah.]

[canyouhearthelight]

Nihilus Rex Ch. 10: First Move

This chapter took 2 weeks to write. One to hash out what all our intrepid villains would need to do to pull this off, and one to actually write the chapter and make sure all bases are covered.

I and @baelpenrose have taken very few liberties with what this trio is doing, but I want to double-down on his note from the previous chapter: trying this would not only be extremely illegal, but in 2024 it wouldn't even remotely work. Especially not the lien release part: most of those records are digital now, and each bank has maybe four people total with the level of access required to release them. Maybe four.

Cause I am, I am

A little wicked

I am, I am

Hands red, hands red

Just like you said

I am, a little wicked

Valerie Broussard, “A Little Wicked”

After two detours - one to find another thermos, the other to fill both - we managed to make our way to a mall so old and worn-looking that even Spirit Halloween would give it a pass. Nils led us around to a side entrance before holding the door open with a sweeping gesture.  I rolled my eyes good naturedly, Bishop groaning behind me as we shouldered past.  Pausing to rub the dust from an old map with one sleeve, I found what I was looking for and glanced up. “Please tell me the stairs are in good shape?  Best Buy is all the way on the fourth floor.”

“They are, and it is, but we won’t need either.”  I suppressed a shiver as he reached past me to tap a location on our same level. “Sears.  The television section is down here, and the cable connections are still intact.”

“And we didn’t enter on that side because…?” Bishop asked, seeing how far away it looked on the map.

“Internet is up, power doors are not,” came the dry answer. “And this door was the only one I could get my hands on a key for.” 

“How did you - “ I started.

“You don’t want to know, Baklava. Plausible deniability - if anyone gets busted, Nothing did the breaking and entering, we weren’t aware he wasn’t lawfully here.” Hiking his bag further up on his shoulder, Bishop grunted. “Let’s go.”

Walking through the mall gave the eerie impression of being a zombie movie - rustling could be heard constantly, along with voices coming from beyond some of the locked grates covering storefronts. Squatters, I realized. Better use of the space than just leaving it here to rot, I thought approvingly. At least they aren’t freezing to death outside.

“Anyway.” Nils led the way into the employee break room in the Sears, one where he’d clearly helped himself to a few of the beanbags from the small furniture store, and locked the door behind us. “Router is behind the counter. We got wifi, we have a place to sit, we have work to do. Everyone, grab a beanbag or a chair. Local squatters won’t bother us in here - there’s an arrangement. I paid for a generator, they don’t mess with my stuff, and stay out of my way when I need to do a thing.” 

I made a mental note to bring food next time, provided I could figure out a way to bring it without Nils or Bishop noticing - last thing I needed was Bishop informing Nils about my stray-cat tendencies.  Grabbing a bean bag and an abandoned tray to set my computer on, I nested in and started getting everything connected.  Once I was happy with where everything was at, I dug in my bag for some snacks, pulling them out triumphantly before realizing Nils and Bishop were staring at me.

“What? You said we had work to do.”

Nils started snickering. “Not that. Just. Never known anyone who brought chili pistachios to a hack job. That’s all.” He shrugged. “Kind of cool.” 

“Creampuff. You and I both know if it was anyone else - like me, or even like Shade, you’d be saying something that would end with everyone either laughing or punching your lights out.” Harvey glanced at him with exasperation.

I offered some of my snack. “Keep the nut jokes to a minimum and I’ll share.”

“Please, Lash. We are not WintermuteWeasel. We come up with classier jokes than that when there is a lady present.” Nils replied, with faux-dignity. 

“In that case, I won’t offer you this,” I sighed dramatically, holding up a bag of homemade jerky. “Because god forbid you put my meat in your mouth.”

Bishop leaned past Nils. “I will gladly put your meat and your nuts in my mouth,” he managed to deadpan, making me throw my head back laughing before handing over both pistachios and jerky.

Nils blinked. “Apologies, clearly I misunderstood your sense of humor. My apologies. I’d do this casually, but you now strike me as the type who’d doubtless prefer a bit of begging for the privilege of your tasty, tasty nuts. Please…” He gave me giant puppy dog eyes and fell out of his bean bag chair, doing his best attempt at looking pathetic, not quite topping how he’d looked when bleeding in a torn suit, but much, much funnier. 

I surrendered and nodded for Bishop to pass the snacks over. “And don’t worry, I didn’t cook any of these, so they taste really good. Fair warning, the lamb jerky is - “

“Hooooleee crap,” Bishop gasped around a mouthful, grabbing a bottle of water and taking a big swig. “Spicy. Very very spicy. Lots of cilantro spicy, was not prepared.”

“That,” I finished lamely. “So go slow or we’ll never get any work done.  Speaking of the Weasel… Any word?”

“Called him, he should be calling back in….” His phone started ringing. “Now. I’ll deal with him, try to keep quiet, both of you. It’s gonna be easier if you two don’t acknowledge that I’m buying for you so he doesn’t hold up the sale for something gross, you know?” He stepped off. “Wintermute, yeah. Best icebreaker. Needs to be less than 30MB. Able to tear through the absolute best encryption out there? Can you do it?”

Something on the other end.

“Need to get a worm and a data bomb through it, and be able to activate the data bomb on the other end after the worm has had time to work. No, you don’t need to know what for. You just need to know the parameters. High end, government encryption. Less than 30MB file size.” Harvey got tense, and began rolling his eyes, held the phone away from his head for a minute. He began doing ducklips - might have picked that up from me.

Eventually he put it back to his head. “Yeah, I get it’ll be expensive. No, no I will not disclose who I’m working with. Cash only payments. Yeah, I can pay that.” 

He hung up. “Great. He’ll meet me in a few weeks. He bitched about it, a lot, but after a bit he said he could do it. It’ll ring three thousand. Each of you down to cover a grand?” 

I squinted and did some mental math. “Yeah, I can cover that.” I’d have to bite the bullet and work on some more anime commissions, but the money was practically sitting there otherwise.  “Richie McWhiteboy, you don’t need to auction off a leather jacket or anything, do you?”

“You know what’s sad? I am so useless in so many ways, but I have the kind of academic credentials where I get paid to research for the university as a grad student as long as I keep helping professors with their research and it covers rent. All my jobs basically just cycle in paying for other jobs and expenses. And I still have money left over to give away. Yeah, I can throw a thousand - probably a little more if it’ll take strain off of you two.”

Bishop winked at me. “Ah, to have rich people problems, right?”

I threw my hands up. “I will totally take financial help in providing snacks and decent coffee. Titties only get me so far.”  Belatedly, I realized what I had said and covered my face with both hands. “ART!” I shouted. “ART!”

Nils snickered. “Most artists have drawn big tittied anime girls for money, and most academics who need it have either written Marvel fanfiction for kinks they didn’t want to know about or written someone else’s papers. Don’t think about it too hard.” 

Bishop just shook his head as I peeked through my fingers and dragged over a second bean bag to prop his feet on. “Before we get completely derailed by a taco joke, let’s reel it in, children.  Our not so friendly neighborhood perv is working on the encryption breaking, do we want to do the worm or databomb first?”

Nils looked to me. “I’d prefer doing the databomb first, since a spore with extra activations is easy enough and just having it done early so all we have left is the hard part means that when we’re done with the hard part we don’t have anything left, but if anyone has any objections to that I’ll hear them?”

“The county records…?” I asked, glancing between the both of them. “You know, the physical liens? With the counties?”

It was completely the opposite of reassuring when Nils went pale and Bishop’s eyes glazed over. With a deadpan, almost contemptuously exhausted tone, Nils grunted, “Fuck. Alright, malware 4 and 5, another encryption breaker, another databomb, let’s go. And find some way of getting those released. And finding which ones we’re looking for…”

“I mean a dial-up bot that just asks after public records isn’t hard, you and I have made like a few dime a dozen ones, that’s easy. Hell, I have a DDoS botnet or two we can repurpose, just collecting dust. Start generating those to get public records on liens, they’re public record. Hard part is the lien releases, that’ll take…some courts and counties take digital copies or faxed copies of the notarized forms, I say we collect the records with that and start sending forged copies out. I mean, we’d need to pay a good forgery guy, but I know one. It takes about thirty days, but we can mill the fucking things once we get all the records and get good fake state seals made.”

“Make sure they are backdated by several months,” I suggested. “Totally Purloined Letter it, act like they’ve had it this entire time and lost their copy. They’ll be too embarrassed to object.”

“Right, add about a month to the process for that and finishing our worm and encryption breaker, county records are easily breakable, we can make our own icebreakers for that but we’re gonna need a lot of computers to launch that many attacks at once…That, plus adequate databombs.”

“Add another twenty five days after we send the fake releases, give time for as many as possible to be recorded,” Bishop added. “They’re less likely to be lumped in with the attack, that way.”

              “Okay. That, plus I have to regularly commune with my morons on their “orders” for the “joint operation” about dealing with the “evil shadow government.” Nils sighed. “Okay. We have a lot of work to do but we should be able to manage it. We can’t brag about it after, which kinda sucks because we’re rapidly approaching Inception-timed-to-music levels of bullshit, and if we pull it off any reasonable world would give us bragging rights forever, but there are way worse things.” 

              “I don’t suppose any of your far right fucknuckle brother uncles are notaries?” I sighed. “We’d never be that lucky.”

              “Sadly, no. I do have a relative who is but she’d never get caught up in anything illegal for political reasons, perish the thought,” Nils’ voice took on a note of contempt. “She conveniently forgets that marrying her husband was illegal until around 60 years ago, and that the entire concept of civil disobedience is ‘breaking the law for political reasons’.”  He shrugged. 

              Bishop grunted, snagging a thermos. “Pocket notaries going on Santa’s wishlist in the event we are ever good little boys and girl…. We are now at 55 day lead time, minimum. The thirty days will give us time to come up with hardware without getting too much scrutiny, and we use that time to let bots dig up the information we need on the liens and student debt.” I blinked and he waggled a finger at me. “I didn’t forget that part, don’t worry. Student debt is going to be the least painful, because zero potential damage there, Sallie Mae can just fuck right off.”  

He typed for second and tilted his head. “Then we send the faked releases - I don’t know if my guy can do them in bulk, so it would be smart to have a program to mock them up as back-up.  Who can code that, because I’ll be too busy.”

I raised my hand. “Digital art en masse is my area of expertise,” I nodded confidently. “I can cobble something together from my animation stuff, no problem.”  Would I test it by using it to clear my commissions inbox? Probably, but they didn’t need to know that.  I already felt guilty enough about it.

“Okay, so I’ll handle the databombs and the basic icebreakers, Bishop will repurpose his dialup net, and Lash will get the mock-ups ready so we can mill out fake lien releases. I’ll also handle getting the gun nuts ready and primed for when we go. We’ll work together on the worm since that’ll be the hardest part.” Nils was standing, the irritated exhaustion gone, eyes suddenly alight. “We have a little less than two months, and when that’s done, we’ll be paying back the banks for the 2008 crash and all the futures they stole with student loans. And we’ll be stealing a lot of them back. Let’s get to work.” 

[vintageslideshow]

My slide/negative scanner I have been hyperfixating on.

Describing the five pieces above for your education, amusement, or annoyance, your call -- which mercifully I have put on the other side of a page break...

The scanner (Nikon Coolscan 4000 ED, item 4) I got at Goodwill for $10, but you can’t find them for less than $300 online presently. Walmart price is $2,200! They hit the market circa 2001 and came with the drivers for Windows XP, then there was a software update to get it into Vista, but this scanner has such a devoted fanbase -- it’s still considered one of the best scanners ever produced even today -- that an edit to the driver .INF file was written by someone other than Nikon so it could be used in Windows 7 through 10 (I have no idea about 11 as yet). The interface is FireWire, rather than USB, which isn’t an issue to me because I have an IEEE 1394 ExpressCard for my notebook (an eBay purchase cheap from China) and an IEEE1394 PCI Express card in my computer ($2 from a junkshop downtown). The black dust cover slides down so the accessories listed below can be inserted.

The 35mm negative strip adaptor (item 1) came with the scanner but the other two standard accessories listed below did not. It does indeed work with an entire 2-to-20-image strip of negatives at one go, thumbnailing the contents in the Nikon software so it can scroll through the strip to look at whichever image you want.

The single slide adaptor (item 2) I got a comparably good price on, and it’s the thing I’ve been using the most. Especially on what you see on Vintage Slideshow. Insert a slide, and automatically the scanner sucks it in and creates a preview scan. The Nikon software is pretty good at image manipulation and correction, but for simplicity reasons if I have a really lousy slide to fix I’ll use VueScan as the scanning software instead.

The negative adaptor tray (item 3) will accept single 35mm negs as well as other sizes of negatives; I’ve scanned 110, 126, and 127 negatives with this doohickie, which can hold a strip of 4 of the latter two sizes and 6-8 of 110... one just needs to move the slider to put one image into the view frame. This adaptor goes into the 35mm negative strip adaptor, and someone on eBay offers an alternative that they 3D-printed for about half the going price.

The 50-slide magazine (item 5) is the latest addition to the family because it took me several years to locate one at a price less than $400. (Would you believe Walmart is asking $1,500?) It scans one slide at a time, but can crank through a stack in autopilot so you don’t have to keep swapping slides. There’s a known issue with this device [FS-200] and its upgrade [FS-200(S)] jamming because it can try to pull more than one slide into the chamber at a time, but several solutions have been found by the fanbase and the one I like most is taping a cable tie (with the end cut flush) along the wall separating the input from the output, the end about 2mm from the entry passage, so that only the first slide will be in the right position and angle to enter the chamber.

There are other adaptors available which I don’t think I’ll ever need, such as for reading APS film rolls or for magnifying glass microscope slides.

[blubushie]

Question for you: how do you go about transporting a kill back to Matilda? I’m curious about how a roo would be quartered/split up, if their hides are any good for leather, what you do with the guts and bones, etc. Basically, what happens after you make a kill? -🐟

So first and foremost, Jack owns the roo ute we use for this. It has a "rack" in the tray what we use for hanging the roos and dressing them. For the sake of this and the fact you mentioned Matilda specifically, I'm going to explain how this works for a non-commercial hunt. Here's a video of how it works commercially if you want to see that.

This is a gambrel.

The hooks on mine are sharpened for better penetration. They go in the hocks and snag at the Achilles' tendon, like this.

So the first thing I do is hunt the roo.

I drive Matilda as close as I can get to the carcass. Sometimes I'm far enough out into the bush that this isn't possible, so I'm stuck lugging ~60kg/130lbs of dead weight through the bush back to Matilda. If I think this is going to take more than an hour, I field-dress the carcass on the spot to avoid any bacteria what might be in him spoiling the meat. Roos weigh a lot less without their guts and stuff, but the downside of field dressing is that I get completely covered in blood dragging it back because I basically piggyback the roo on my shoulders (both front legs go over my shoulders and cross at the wrists over my throat, I tie them with rope and wear the roo like a cape as a I hump it back).

I'm writing this assuming I haven't already field-dressed the roo.

Once at Matilda, I find a good tree that looks sturdy and I set up the gambrel. I snag the gambrel in the roo's hocks and use a pulley system to bring him up off the ground like this.

Once that's done and he's hanging upside-down, it's time to get to work.

I take my KA-BAR and start cutting around his throat. I use a sawing motion (I keep my knives sharp) until I hit the vertebrae. I make my way around the neck until the vertebrae is the only thing keeping his head attached. Once that's done I bring him up so that I'm waist-level with the semi-decapitated head. I get my machete, line it up, and swing. Usually it only takes one swing to either break or cut through the vertebrae. Rarely it takes two. I've never had to make a third.

I grab the head by the ears and chuck it into the bushes. I don't like looking at it. I repeat the same process with the tail. Cut, align, whack. The tail is left for Misty to chew on. Keeps her from trying to get into the viscera.

The machete gets put away for now.

Next I get the hopper choppers--a pair of cable cutters. I dock off the hind legs above the Achilles and the front legs at the elbows.

I use a gutting knife, like this. The hook is important.

I take my gutting knife, start at his knackers or her package, and start cutting in. I keep it shallow so I don't nick the bladder. Once I can get two fingers (right hand) in him and the knackers are removed, I put the blade between my pointer and middle fingers (still right hand) and snag the hook in him and slowly pull down like I'm unzipping him. The viscera comes tumbling out. I lower the roo so the stump of the neck almost touches the ground. I take the machete, align it with the bottom of the sternum, lay my shin over it, and use my body weight to cut downward. This cuts through the sternum and into his throat. Most of the viscera hits the ground at this point and I use the gutting knife to detach the intestines from the anus, then cut through the anus and downward until the cut meets where I've already carved. I make my way down the back wall of the body cavity along the spine, cutting the rest of the intestines, lungs, and heart free. This is the bloodiest part of the whole deal and usually the point when I get splattered.

The insides of bodies smell weird. Raw. I can't describe it.

The skin comes off next. I make a ring along the hocks and cut down, thigh-to-thigh, until I reach the groin. For this I use the tip of my gutting knife, since it's also a skinning knife. I work the skin on both legs free until I reach the arse, and then I pull downward. The skin peels off. It feels like peeling orange and sounds similar. If the roo is a real big bloke with skin that won't separate easily, sometimes I'll use a piece of rope to knot the hide and then tie that onto the hitch of Matilda and floor it.

It should come off in one piece, and I inspect the carcass to make sure it comes off in one piece.

When it comes to a commercial harvest, all I do it dock the legs, head, and field dress. I don't skin. That's the butcher's job. I quarter carcasses the way Jack does, which consists of treating it the same way I would a pig carcass.

I get my esky.

I take his foreleg, stretch it out, and use the KA-BAR to cut through the foreleg, around the shoulder, and separate it from the body. It goes into the esky. I repeat the process with the other leg. Then I take my knife and start under the hindquarters and come down the side, I grab the muscle here, and pull as I cut away along the spine. That's the backstrap. Goes in the esky. Next is the tenderloin. I cut down the inside cavity along the spine, grab the muscle, and cut it free. Goes in the esky. I take the machete, grab the ribs, and start hacking like I'm hammering a nail to separate them from the spine. Goes in the esky. Then I use the KA-BAR to separate the legs from the spine, and they go in the esky. After that I'm done and it's just a matter of cutting individual pieces of meat whenever I'm ready to make dinner. I'll wash off my hands, wash the meat and put it in the fridge/freezer, have a beer and maybe a smoke, and relax for the evening. I usually cook the tenderloins first since that's my favourite piece of meat on a roo. They cook fast and you have to eat them rare. Kangaroo meat doesn't withstand cooking to medium. Sometimes I'll use a skillet but in my experience they're best over a campfire on a grill. The wood smoke adds to the flavour.

The hide, guts, and head gets left behind for scavengers since it's no use to me. Very rarely I'll buy a fuckton of salt and lay the hide out and flesh it (scraping it with the skinning knife to remove any meat). Then I rub salt on it, roll it up, and shove it in a rubbish bag. I give the hides to Jack. Misty gets to chew on any stray bones, and I dock the tip of the tail, skin it, and give it to her as a treat which she loves.

And yes, kangaroo leather is great! It's ten times as strong as cow hide and my hat is actually made of kangaroo leather (except for the band which is 100% crocodile). Misty's lead is also made of braided kangaroo leather for added strength/durability. My vest, boots, most of my sheaths, and my quiver are all made of kangaroo leather.

[wanderingmindthoughts]

Dismantling and cleaning up my old PS2

my friends came by the other day and we decided to play soul calibur II on my PS2. I think it's been around 3 years since I last booted it up, and when we ejected the disk tray it was BROWN with dust. the poor thing even struggled to get it out, it was pitiful. so I loaned an air duster from one of them and decided to clean it up.

I'm following this tutorial to dismantle the console, and I'm writing this post as I go, mainly for documental purposes (so I can put it back together later) but also for fun. and to get used to writing more; writing is hard.

first thing, I gathered all the tools I was going to need:

some screwdrivers, in different shapes and sizes.

an air duster, loaned from friend.

a container to keep all the screws in (I like using old yogurt glass containers)

tweezers

microfibre cloth

then I started to dismantle it. first thing you do is put it upside down and remove the protectors that cover the screws, and then you remove the screws. I used a flat screwdriver to pry the protectors out, and then I just removed the screws with a phillips. the long screws were quite hard to remove, and they creaked as I turned them and it was ominous. pic so I know how to put them back in:

then I put the console back right side up, removed the cover of the extension bay and tried to pull the plastic case up, but it still had the guarantee seal on, keeping it in place. I peeled it away carefully with a box cutter; I don't think I would get my guarantee even if I kept it intact, but I kind of love that it is still there and I am not above gluing it back in place just for the aesthetics.

after that I could take the upper case off the console, and started seeing its guts: you can now see the disk drive, the cooling system (fan + heat sink), the controller ports and the power cables that feed the power board (it's under the heat sink, so we can't see it yet)

the interior has a very nasty layer of dust, so I take the air duster and start cleaning it up. this is when I make my first mistake: I was careless, my hand slipped and I dropped the case, which snapped the flat bus that connects the reset button with the motherboard... I thought that the console was dead now, but I picked the case up, checked the bus, and I think that maybe it disconnected without getting damaged. so I have hope that, if I just put the bus back in place, the PS2 will still work.

I wasn't planning to completely dismantle the thing, I just wanted to take enough parts to make it presentable. however, to plug the bus back in, I have to strip it down to the motherboard. so, onwards we go. this in now an in-depth cleaning. I don't know if it's broken yet, but I won't make it worse by continuing and there may be a chance I can just plug the bus back in. show must go on.

next thing is unscrewing the controller ports, and the fan:

all of these pieces I'm taking away are still connected by buses and/or cables, so I have to be very careful not to snap these. one nervewracking incident was enough. I take away the controller ports with ease, but the fan seems to be stuck somehow. I know it's unscrewed, but something is still holding it in place and I don't want to pull harder because I know it still connected, and I don't want to damage the cable. so I let the fan and its cover in place for now.

I dust it all again before turning the entire thing upside down again, carefully to not to drop nor damage the loose dangly parts, and I remove the bottom case. this side of the console is composed of the extension bay, and the power board:

this half of the case is also filthy with dust, and now I'm starting to feel glad I decided to dismantle it completely because there's dust absolutely everywhere. I dust the thing yet again, and I unscrew the power board (the green thing with a lot of welding points) and the hardware for the expasion bay before removing them, being very careful with the power board because it is still connected to the socket with two thick cables, that I must disconnect before proceeding. after removing the power board, the thermal protector (the bit of transparent plastic with a blue line) and the extension bay, all it's left is the support hardware that was holding everything.

now, the cable that connects the fan to the motherboard is exposed and I can unplug it carefully with pliers (it's a very thin cable with a very small connector, and in the pics the cable is protected by a bit of white tape, so it's hard to see). after fumbling with the fan again, I manage to take it away. now that it's dismantled I can see that it was wise not to force it earlier, because the cord is taped to its cover in a way that would have snapped the cable if I had pulled hard ;__;

and now that everything is disconnected and unscrewed, I can finally remove the support and uncover the motherboard, and see if the damage I did to the bus was fatal. I carefully unplug the rest of the buses, and compare them to the one I snapped, and I think it looks reasonably intact!

there is one bus (the big one on the left) that I just can't seem to unplug.

at this point I take a small break. rather than keep fighting the thing I take a microfiber cloth and start cleaning the case. I spend a good while using a flat screwdriver to drive the cloth properly into the decorative grooves that this model has, and since it is just plastic I use a bit of windex to really take all the grime off. I clean every cranny like that, inside and outside, and then I clean up the hardware support and the extension bay that I have been leaving aside (they are just metal, so as long as they're dry when I put them back in, it's okay). I go to eat dinner, and then I continue.

I can see that the other side of the motherboard is also dusty, so I do my best to lift if carefully and use the air duster to clean off the worst of it. then, I figure out how to take the motherboar off its hardware support, which looks like this:

it's dusty as all hell, so I dust it off with the air duster and then carefully wipe it with the clean and dry microfiber cloth.

this is how a PS2 looks with almost everything stripped away. the yellow board to the right is the power board, to its right it's the hardware support that goes under the motherboard when the console is not dismantled, and then you have the motherbard itself, with the disk drive under it. I have put a plastic thing under the motherboard because I don't think it's designed to lay unevenly directly atop the disk drive, so it's just there to held it up until I mount it back into the hardware support.

I can carefully lift and clean the underside of the motherboard, and a bit of the CD unit. I am very careful about it, and I am using a dry, clean microfiber cloth to carefully dabble around the worst of the dust. I don't dare trying to disconnect anything else, so I don't have any photos of that because I didn't have enought hands to do that, hold the motherboard and clean around while still keeping everything connected (the controller ports are still hanging to the motherboard by their bus! I didn't disconnect them). I can't completely clean the disk drive like this, but I am very scared of touching anything else, so this'll do.

I mount the motherboard back onto the hardware support, being mindful to put the part with the thermal protectors over the processor, and carefully align them with the disk drive. I immediately disalign everything, since now I have to handle the entire thing to plug the buses back in. I successfull put back all of the buses, included the one I snapped by accident! the blue part of it became unglued, but I just held it against the bus itself and inserted it back in. the hard part now is that I'm going to have to somehow put this entire thing back together while keeping it connected to the upper case, the entire time.

now, this is the moment of the process where I read this post from the bottom up, so I know in which order I have to put things in next.

I re-align the motherboard, and then I take the other hardware support that goes over it. it's been machined to fit perfectly over, so it only has one correct position to fit in. I screw it in place, put back the expansion bay into its place, then immediately take it away again because I have to plug the fan back in before I do that, and I just realised that I haven't cleaned the fan and its case yet. to do so, I have to peel off the tape that keeps its cord down to the casing, for some reason. the thing is absolutely filthy; the first picture is AFTER I had given it already a couple dustings. but now that it's out of the case, I can just clean it up with the cloth, and after going at that with the flat screwdriver to get it in the crannies and going at it a couple more times with the air duster, it looks new!

so now I can plug it back in, and I tape the cable down with new tape (I guess it was taped for a reason). I can now show you how tiny it is! I don't think it measures 5mm, the pic shows my smallest flat screwdriver.

next, I check the photos again in order to connect the power board with the power socker, and mount it back into the support. I actually have to unmount it and mount it again TWO more times, one because I forgot to put the extension bay first and a second one because I realised that I to put forgot the plastic thermal protector under the powerboard. you know, life is about realising you've made a mistake and fixing it before it has the time to become a huge, smoking crisis under your tv.

after putting the thermal proctector, power board and extension bay back together the correct way, I put the bottom case on it, and carefully -I don't want to snap the reset bus again- turn it all over. I somehow manage to do it successfully with all buses in place, and I spend a little bit more time cleaning the ports and the top of the CD unit, which I didn't do earlier.

and then. then.

the upper case slipped from the bolster I had it perched on, and the reset bus snaps out of place.

I want to slam my head against the wall and go to bed, but instead of that. it's fine. just, it's fine. I can take apart the entire thing, it's less scary now. I know all the steps. mostly, I'm just pissed about having to unscrew it all again. and as I do so, I realise that I completely forgot to screw the power board in place, which explains the worrying clicks I heard while turning the thing over. silver linings!

I dismantle everything again, and when I get to unplugging the fan, I realise that the connector is too small and the plastic too old and fragile to unplug it with the tweezers again without significant risk to the cable itself, so I just left it plugged. I'm not going to uncover the entire motherboad; I only need to slide the hardware support a bit, just enough to uncover the bus connectors. I manage to do that withouth putting tension on the fan cable, so I plug the rogue bus back in (with the blue strip and everything), and now I'm going to be very, very careful about keeping these two parts close together.

I slip the support back into place, and screw it again. I put in the plastic thermal protector, the extension bay and the power board, and I screw it in place this time. sliding the bottom case back in feels scarier this time around, but I do it.

and, praying to gods I don't believe in, I hold the bottom part, carefully keeping the controller ports close against it, brace myself, and flip it over.

the way I turn half of a playstation around so that it rotates 180º while keeping one end close to a stationary point at the edge of the desk at all times would have earned me a permanent position as architect in service to the caliphate 2000 years ago.

I actually have to repeat this twirling stravaganza four more times, because something was misaligned and the screws didn't fit. but. I put the bottom case back in place, and screw in place the fan, its cover, and the controller ports.

now, I am almost done again. I'm just going to put the upper case back in, somehow.

it is back in place. I've even glued back in place the guarantee seal.

the case is all put together again, it just needs to be screwed. before that, I've been cleaning it a lit a litte bit more, because this thing was really fucking dusty. then I put the final, external screws (the ones that where hard to pull out are also hard to convince back in), put the screw protectors in place and, well, I think that it does look a lot better than before.

but the thing is, will it turn on? I have to move it to the living room for that.

I plug the power in, and the pilot turns on. first success! I push the power button...

...and there it is! the tv is also displaying the start animation, with the sound and everything.

the disk tray is still a bit dusty, and I can tell the motor is having trouble pushing it out (the sound is truly harrowing), but that's an issue for another day. it's 2:27 AM, I've been at this for over four hours. this inadvisable midweek adventure has gone entirely out of the rails

[aparna2024]

Are you Looking for ladder type cable tray? Explore the numerous benefits of using perforated cable trays in our guide. Discover how they improve cable management, airflow, and reduce installation costs. For More Visit us at https://aparnarollform.com/ or Contact us +91 91540 88439.

[afloatmocha]

I got this bad boy last year for 20 bucks and i finally think I have a use for it, the only problem is to connect a screen I need a home made sketchy cable, that plugs into the inside of the server and under the drive tray so I have to have the cover off and the drive tray hanging out. Because I can no longer close the top while the screen is plugged in I also need a piece of cardboard (with a mug to hold it down) to go around the cpu cooler to give it air flow or it overheats 

[cadoutsourcingservicesindia]

Affordable Electrical BIM Outsourcing Services Provider in Tennessee, USA under $49

CAD Outsourcing Consultants has a wide range of Electrical BIM Outsourcing Services that covers every facet of Electrical Structure, Designing and Engineering that is sorted with the aid of Electrical Building Information Modeling. Within the Electrical BIM, we also offer BIM Engineering, BIM Drafting, BIM Design Solution, BIM Outsourcing and Electrical Building Model.

CAD Outsourcing provides the following Electrical BIM Services:

·         Modeling of Power, Data & Communication Systems

·         Modeling of Fire Alarm Systems

·         Modeling of Cable Trays and Conduits as per the given layout

·         BOQ of Electrical Equipment

·         Preparation of Lighting & Power Circuit Drawings

·         Scheduling panel and circuit board

·         Electrical Lighting Fixtures Modeling

·         Walk-through of Electrical BIM Model

·         Rendering of BIM Model with Lights

·         Generator room and electrical room BIM Modeling        

  We offer our Electrical BIM Services Tennessee and covered other cities: Nashville, Atlanta, Charlotte, South Carolina, Indiana, North Carolina, Virginia, San Antonia and New Mexico.

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[sharmalavanya]

Different types of Cable Tray fittings

There's always a question about how many types of cable tray fittings are available in the market. Thus, to answer your question in depth we are here.

Vertical Elbows: For the cable trays to move in a vertical direction whether up or down in order to follow the route of wires and keep them safe and connected, vertical elbows are used to join the couple of cable trays and maintain a safe and clean working environment.

Horizontal Elbows: Available in different angles, these horizontal elbows come as a blessing for cable tray users especially where there are a lot of corners or curves to be covered in the building. Thus, these elbows are used to turn the cable trays at an angle of 90 degrees without affecting the vertical routes of the wires.

Crosses: For a business where a lot of cables are coming from different directions and so cable trays need to be connected in all four directions, these crosses are used accordingly to shape the bale trays and so accommodate the cables on all different sides, intersecting each other effectively.

Tees: Tees are used largely in a residential building where each or another corner of the building has to have its own cable tray network, thus the tees are used to interact one or more direction cable trays with each other.

Couplers: To connect two different directions of the cable trays whether horizontally, vertically, or in any other direction the couplers are reused. They are used to make a proper connection and provide enhanced stability for the cable trays in complex working environments.

Reducers: One of the best cable tray fittings is the reducers which help in the easy adjustment of the width of cable trays making it simpler and easier to add or remove wires in the areas where a few cables need to be accommodated. Thus, reducers can be a boon for the cable trays in areas with fewer cable accommodations.

End Plates: These plates are used at the end of the cable trays to prevent the falling of the cables or entering of any animal that can cause damage to the wires. Thus these end plates as the name only suggests are used to lock up the sides and keep them safe giving a good, neat, and tidy visual of the area.

In conclusion, different types of cable tray fittings are the most important way to install cable trays, as they are important in order to maintain the proper organization of the wires in an area to provide clear vision. Thus find the different cable tray types of installation along with their fittings only in SicmoSteel, and enjoy their lifelong durability as we offer the robust structures of these cable trays.

[madewithless]

A wire mesh cable tray is an open-grid system designed to support and manage cables, providing an efficient solution for routing electrical wiring or data cables. Made from metal wires welded into a grid-like pattern, these trays are lightweight, highly durable, and allow for excellent ventilation, which helps in heat dissipation from cables. The open design also makes it easier to inspect and modify cable installations without having to remove any covers. Wire mesh cable trays are commonly used in commercial buildings, industrial facilities, and data centers due to their flexibility, ease of installation, and cost-effectiveness.

[protikcms]

How to choose best perforated Cable Trays

Choosing the best perforated cable trays involves considering various factors to ensure that the trays meet your specific needs for managing cables in a safe, efficient, and durable manner. Here are some key factors to consider:

1. Material

Steel: Commonly used due to its strength and durability. Steel trays are often galvanized or powder-coated to resist corrosion.

Aluminum: Lightweight, corrosion-resistant, and easy to install, making it a good choice for environments where weight is a concern.

Stainless Steel: Offers superior corrosion resistance and is ideal for harsh environments, such as chemical plants or outdoor installations.

FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic): Non-conductive and resistant to corrosion, fire, and chemicals. Ideal for environments with high exposure to corrosive substances.

2. Load Capacity

Determine the Load Requirements: Calculate the total weight of cables and other components that the tray will support. Ensure the tray's load capacity matches or exceeds this requirement to prevent sagging or failure.

Support Spacing: Consider the support span—how far apart the tray supports will be. The load capacity of the tray should be sufficient for the expected load across this span.

3. Size and Dimensions

Width and Height: Select a tray size that can accommodate the volume of cables you need to manage. Ensure there’s enough space for future expansion.

Ventilation: Perforated trays provide better ventilation, reducing heat buildup around cables, which is essential for maintaining cable integrity, especially in high-power installations.

4. Design and Configuration

Perforated Design: These trays allow for better airflow and drainage, which helps in maintaining cable temperature and reducing the risk of overheating. This design also facilitates cable entry and exit at any point.

Ease of Installation: Choose trays with features that simplify installation, such as snap-on covers or modular designs. This can reduce labor costs and installation time.

5. Environmental Considerations

Corrosion Resistance: Consider the environmental conditions where the trays will be installed. If the environment is humid, chemically aggressive, or outdoor, select materials and finishes that offer high corrosion resistance.

Fire Safety: In environments where fire safety is critical, select trays made from fire-retardant materials or with fire-resistant coatings.

6. Compliance and Standards

Industry Standards: Ensure that the cable trays comply with relevant standards such as NEMA (National Electrical Manufacturers Association), IEC (International Electrotechnical Commission), or other local standards. This ensures safety, quality, and compatibility with other system components.

Certifications: Look for trays with certifications that validate their performance in specific conditions, such as fire ratings, load capacity, or environmental resistance.

7. Cost and Budget

Initial Cost vs. Long-Term Value: While cheaper trays might save money upfront, consider the long-term durability and maintenance costs. Investing in higher-quality trays can result in fewer replacements and lower overall costs over time.

Manufacturer and Warranty: Choose trays from reputable manufacturers who offer warranties and customer support. This can provide assurance of the product's quality and longevity.

8. Customizability

Bend Radius and Flexibility: If your installation requires frequent changes in direction, ensure the trays can be easily customized or come with accessories that allow for bends and changes in direction without compromising cable integrity.

Accessories: Consider the availability of accessories like covers, dividers, or support brackets that can enhance the functionality and safety of the cable management system.

9. Aesthetic and Maintenance

Finish: Depending on the installation environment, you may prefer a tray with a polished finish for aesthetic reasons, especially in visible areas.

Ease of Maintenance: Consider how easy it will be to maintain and clean the trays. Perforated trays are easier to keep clean as they accumulate less dust and debris.

Visit site — https://protikcms.com/products/cable-management-solutions/perforated-tray-cable-trayProtik is the manufacturers of the best perforated cable trays and provides top cable management solutions in Africa and Iraq.

[laurafan13]

Fiber Optic Face Plate

Fiber Optic Face Plate FP-026 is used in FTTx network installation for fiber splicing, distribution and connection. It is indoor wall mounted for fiber protection and management.

Features: High quality ABS plastic, moisture proof, dust-proof, anti-aging, durable The reasonable internal design meets the minimum bending radius of the fiber 2 cable ports meet diameter 5-10mm or 2*3mm flat drop cable entry or exit Can load 1pc SC simplex adapter or 1pc LC duplex adapter Splice tray is flip design, convenient to use and maintenance Transparent PC front cover, convenient observation

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[aparna2024]

Are you Looking for ladder type cable tray? Explore the numerous benefits of using perforated cable trays in our guide. Discover how they improve cable management, airflow, and reduce installation costs. For More Visit us at https://aparnarollform.com/ or Contact us +91 91540 88439.