#CFM calculation for exhaust hoods

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Aligning Ventilation Needs and Compliance for Kitchen Exhaust Hood Installation

Achieving a successful kitchen exhaust hood installation in a commercial kitchen requires more than just choosing the right equipment. It involves balancing ventilation needs with compliance standards. Properly installed exhaust hoods improve air quality and ensure safety, but aligning your system with local codes is essential to avoid potential issues. Here’s how to plan your installation to meet both ventilation requirements and regulatory compliance.

The Importance of Balancing Ventilation and Compliance

A well-planned kitchen exhaust hood installation helps maintain a safe kitchen environment by removing smoke, grease, and heat. Adhering to local building codes ensures that your system operates legally and efficiently. Aligning these aspects protects your staff, reduces fire risks, and helps your kitchen pass necessary inspections.

Key Considerations for Ventilation and Compliance

To ensure that your exhaust hood installation meets both ventilation needs and regulatory standards, consider these factors:

CFM Ratings and Hood Size: Proper airflow is crucial for effective ventilation. Determining the required cubic feet per minute (CFM) based on your cooking equipment and kitchen size ensures that your exhaust hood system can efficiently remove heat, smoke, and odors. High-heat appliances like fryers and grills need a higher CFM rating for optimal performance.

Placement and Clearance: Local regulations often dictate minimum clearance distances between the exhaust hood and walls or ceilings. Proper placement allows the hood to capture fumes effectively while adhering to safety codes. Positioning the kitchen exhaust hood directly above the cooking area is ideal for optimal capture of smoke and grease.

Ductwork Design and Fire Resistance: The design of your ductwork is essential for safely directing fumes out of the kitchen. Using fire-resistant materials and minimizing bends in the ducts helps maintain good airflow. A well-designed duct system is a key part of a compliant kitchen exhaust hood installation.

Makeup Air Systems: As the exhaust hood removes air from the kitchen, it’s important to replace that air to maintain balance. Makeup air systems help maintain safe pressure levels, preventing backdrafts and ensuring overall ventilation efficiency.

Steps to Balance Ventilation and Compliance

Follow these steps to ensure that your kitchen exhaust hood installation meets both ventilation requirements and compliance standards:

1. Consult Local Building Codes

Understanding local regulations is the first step toward a compliant exhaust hood installation. This ensures that your system meets clearance requirements, CFM ratings, and fire safety standards, providing a solid foundation for your project.

2. Work with a Certified Installer

Hiring a certified professional simplifies the installation process and ensures that every aspect of the kitchen exhaust hood meets code requirements. Professionals can determine the right hood size, CFM, and duct design, making your system both effective and compliant.

3. Schedule a Pre-Installation Inspection

Consider a pre-installation inspection to verify that the planned setup meets local codes. This helps identify any necessary adjustments before the final exhaust hood installation, saving time and preventing costly rework.

Benefits of a Well-Balanced Kitchen Exhaust Hood Installation

When your kitchen exhaust hood installation is properly aligned with ventilation needs and compliance standards, you achieve improved air quality, energy efficiency, and safety. A well-installed system minimizes fire risks, lowers energy costs, and ensures that your kitchen complies with all necessary regulations, creating a more comfortable environment for staff and guests.

Balancing Safety and Efficiency

Balancing ventilation needs with regulatory compliance is crucial for a successful kitchen exhaust hood installation. By considering factors like CFM ratings, proper placement, and ductwork design, you can create a safe and efficient kitchen. Working with professionals and understanding local codes ensures that your installation meets all standards, offering peace of mind and long-term performance for your commercial kitchen.

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Understanding Ventilation Power: Selecting the Ideal CFM for Your Kitchen Exhaust Hood Installation

When it comes to kitchen exhaust hood installation, one of the most crucial factors to consider is the ventilation power, measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM). Choosing the right CFM ensures your kitchen remains free from smoke, grease, and odors, providing a safe and comfortable environment. This guide will help you understand how to select the appropriate CFM for your kitchen exhaust hood, enhancing both functionality and compliance with safety standards.

Why CFM Matters in Kitchen Exhaust Hood Installation

CFM, or cubic feet per minute, measures the volume of air a hood can exhaust in one minute. The right CFM is essential for effective ventilation, determining how quickly and efficiently smoke, steam, and grease are removed from your kitchen. An inadequate CFM can lead to poor air quality and increased fire hazards, while an excessively high CFM can be unnecessarily noisy and energy-consuming.

Calculating the Right CFM for Your Kitchen

The size of your cooking area and the type of cooking you do significantly impact the CFM requirements. For standard cooking ranges, a basic rule of thumb is 100 CFM per linear foot of cooktop. For example, a 30-inch range would need a hood with at least 250 CFM. For more intensive cooking methods, such as grilling or frying, you may need a higher CFM to ensure adequate ventilation.

Factors Influencing CFM Requirements

Several factors influence the CFM requirements for your kitchen exhaust hood installation:

Cooking Style: Heavy cooking styles like frying or grilling produce more smoke and grease, requiring higher CFM.

Kitchen Size: Larger kitchens may need more powerful hoods to ensure complete ventilation.

Ductwork Length: Longer duct runs can reduce efficiency, necessitating higher CFM to maintain performance.

Hood System Installation

Proper hood system installation is key to maximizing the effectiveness of your kitchen exhaust hood. Professional installation ensures your hood is correctly positioned and ducted, optimizing airflow and ventilation. Experts can assess your specific kitchen layout and recommend the best system and CFM for your needs, ensuring safety and compliance with local regulations.

Benefits of Choosing the Right CFM

Selecting the appropriate CFM for your kitchen exhaust hood offers several benefits:

Improved Air Quality: Efficient ventilation removes contaminants, keeping the air fresh and clean.

Enhanced Safety: Proper ventilation reduces the risk of grease fires and improves overall kitchen safety.

Energy Efficiency: Choosing the right CFM ensures your hood operates efficiently, saving on energy costs.

Noise Reduction: An appropriately powered hood operates more quietly, creating a more pleasant cooking environment.

Professional Kitchen Exhaust Hood Installation

Opting for professional kitchen exhaust hood installation guarantees your hood system is tailored to your kitchen’s specific needs. At Red Eagle – Kitchen Hood Services LA, we specialize in providing expert installation services. Our experienced team will help you choose the right CFM and ensure your hood is installed for maximum efficiency and safety.

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Choosing the Right Restaurant Hood System: Tips for Pompano Beach Business Owners

Introduction

we will delve into the significance of restaurant hood systems, explore the different types available, and offer expert tips on selecting the ideal hood system in Pompano Beach. to shedding light on restaurant hood systems in Pompano Beach. Restaurant hood systems, also known as kitchen exhaust hoods, are vital components of commercial kitchens, ensuring safety, compliance, and optimal ventilation. In this comprehensive article, we will delve into the significance of restaurant hood systems, explore the different types available, and offer expert tips on selecting the ideal hood system in Pompano Beach.

The Importance of Restaurant Hood Systems

Restaurant hood systems play a crucial role in maintaining a safe and efficient kitchen environment. These ventilation systems are designed to remove heat, smoke, grease, and odors generated during cooking, keeping the kitchen air clean and safe for chefs and staff.

Advantages of Using Restaurant Hood Systems

Fire Safety: Hood systems help prevent grease buildup, reducing the risk of kitchen fires and promoting a safer working environment.

Air Quality: Proper ventilation improves indoor air quality, creating a comfortable and healthier space for kitchen staff.

Compliance with Regulations: Commercial kitchens are subject to strict regulations regarding ventilation and air quality. Hood systems help businesses comply with these standards.

Improved Efficiency: Hood systems remove excess heat and smoke, maintaining a comfortable temperature in the kitchen and enhancing chefs' productivity.

Enhanced Customer Experience: A well-ventilated kitchen ensures that cooking odors do not permeate the dining area, providing a pleasant dining experience for customers.

Types of Restaurant Hood Systems

Restaurant hood systems come in various types, each designed for specific kitchen setups and cooking styles. Here are some common types of restaurant hood systems:

1. Wall-Mounted Canopy Hoods

Wall-mounted canopy hoods are attached to the wall above cooking equipment, capturing and extracting airborne contaminants effectively.

2. Island Canopy Hoods

Island canopy hoods are suspended from the ceiling and are ideal for kitchens with cooking equipment located away from the walls.

3. Backshelf Hoods

Backshelf hoods have a built-in shelf at the rear, providing additional space for storage or equipment while maintaining efficient ventilation.

4. Proximity Hoods

Proximity hoods are designed for cooking equipment that emits high heat or smoke, providing close and effective ventilation.

5. Dishwasher Hoods

Dishwasher hoods are installed above dishwashing stations to capture steam and vapors during the cleaning process.

Expert Tips for Choosing a Restaurant Hood System in Pompano Beach

Selecting the right restaurant hood system is crucial to ensure proper ventilation and compliance with regulations. Consider the following expert tips when choosing a restaurant hood system in Pompano Beach:

Kitchen Layout and Equipment: Assess your kitchen layout and the types of cooking equipment you use to determine the most suitable hood system.

Airflow and CFM Requirements: Calculate the required airflow and cubic feet per minute (CFM) based on your kitchen's size and the volume of cooking.

Hood Material and Construction: Choose a hood system made of durable, easy-to-clean materials that can withstand the demands of a commercial kitchen.

Exhaust Fan and Ductwork: Ensure that the exhaust fan and ductwork are appropriately sized and designed for efficient ventilation.

Regulatory Compliance: Verify that the chosen hood system meets local and national fire safety and building codes.

FAQs about Restaurant Hood Systems in Pompano Beach

What Size of Hood System Do I Need for My Restaurant?

The size of the hood system depends on the size of your kitchen, the number of cooking equipment, and the heat and smoke produced during cooking.

Can I Install a Restaurant Hood System Myself?

Installation of restaurant hood systems should be done by professionals with experience in commercial kitchen ventilation.

How Often Should I Clean the Hood and Filters?

Hood systems and filters should be cleaned regularly, at least once every three months, to ensure optimal performance and fire safety.

What Are the Fire Suppression System Requirements?

Some restaurant hood systems require a fire suppression system to provide an additional layer of protection against kitchen fires.

Can I Use a Residential Range Hood for a Commercial Kitchen?

No, residential range hoods are not suitable for commercial kitchens as they lack the power and capacity to handle the volume of cooking in such environments.

Is Routine Maintenance Necessary for Restaurant Hood Systems?

Routine maintenance is essential for the efficient and safe operation of restaurant hood systems. Regular inspections and cleaning should be scheduled.

Conclusion

In conclusion, restaurant hood systems are indispensable for ensuring fire safety, compliance, and optimal ventilation in commercial kitchens. Understanding the different types of hood systems and selecting the right one for your restaurant in Pompano Beach is crucial for a successful culinary business. Prioritize safety, air quality, and efficiency by investing in a reliable and efficient restaurant hood system. Enhance your kitchen environment and create a comfortable space for chefs and staff to deliver exceptional culinary experiences.

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How to Choose a Commercial Kitchen Exhaust Fan

“Smoke Will get In Your Eyes” is a stunning track by The Platters, however isn't the best theme track to your patrons. Getting the steam, smoke and smells out of your restaurant kitchen is a precedence, however how? A industrial kitchen exhaust fan is a distinct beast than a small residence mannequin.

Along with contemplating airflow and security programs, you have to take into consideration a number of issues in your workspace. Let our consultants information you earlier than you make investments on this very important piece of kitchen gear. Learn on to study 6 issues it is best to take into account earlier than making your massive choice.

Which Business Kitchen Exhaust Fan Is Proper for My Area?

A commercial kitchen exhaust fan is crucial to working your restaurant, bakery or catering kitchen. Most municipalities legally require them. All followers do the identical primary factor, transfer air from inside your constructing to outdoors. Nonetheless, your kitchen exhaust fan should transfer scorching, soiled, greasy air by your hood system and vent it outdoors.

Take into account these 5 issues when selecting your industrial exhaust fan: placement, air movement charge, static stress, power effectivity and sort of drive. Balancing your wants with value is at all times a query, however your air flow skilled might help you with solutions.

How A lot Air Do You Must Transfer?

Merely put, the air quantity movement charge is the measurement of air motion by your duct. It's expressed in cubic toes per minute (CFM). The kind of cooking gear you employ and the quantity of cooking you do adjustments your wants. For instance, a big open flame grill used for meat roasting requires extra air flow than a pancake griddle. A excessive quantity french fry line wants extra air change than a convection oven.

The hood system you buy will dictate the CFM wanted. The Nationwide Hearth Safety Affiliation (NFPA) units the usual for air elimination quantity. Most municipal codes meet or exceed these tips. Once more, your air flow skilled can information you.

On the whole, the minimal velocity (velocity) by the duct is 500 toes per minute and the amount have to be adequate to seize and take away grease-laden cooking vapors. A decrease quantity is permissible throughout no-load circumstances so long as it's adequate to take away flue gases and residual vapors.

How one can Decide Power Effectivity?

Followers usually give motor horsepower. Horsepower isn’t in regards to the quantity of air moved by the motor, though followers with a better horsepower are prone to have a better CFM. For a kitchen exhaust fan, it displays the quantity of energy from the motor wanted to maneuver the blades at a sure velocity.

Have a look at the CFM of a fan on the anticipated most air resistance (static stress). Exhaust followers with a better CFM must be extra power environment friendly. Discover the horsepower score to provide the most power environment friendly operation.

An underpowered motor will put on out too shortly and requires too frequent upkeep. An overpowered motor wastes power.

The place Do You Need the Fan to Be?

The place you place the fan is one among your first concerns. Most fashions of economic followers are designed for one among three placements: inline (within the duct), on the wall, or on the roof. The place the fan is positioned impacts the housing, equipment and infrequently the fee related to set up.

Fan placement is usually dictated by the house out there or fireplace codes. Usually, you could vent cooking odors away from occupied house. This could add prices if you happen to should draw air upward a number of tales.

Fan placement additionally dictates different concerns like look, noise, and dimension.

How A lot Resistance within the System?

Static stress is the resistance towards the air touring by the air flow system. It is usually often known as friction loss or system air resistance. Static stress pertains to the steadiness of air intake and exhaust.

The unit of measurement is non-intuitive. It's measured in inches of water per linear foot of ductwork. The inches of water confer with an old school technique of measuring stress by evaluating to an inch of water in a column. On-line calculators now make this calculation a lot much less tedious.

Static stress have to be optimized to stop poor air distribution or power waste. Balancing static stress requires information of all system elements. This implies making allowances for the duct materials and texture, the size of the duct, system design and quantity.

Deciding on a correct industrial kitchen exhaust fan is dependent upon getting the maths proper. CFM too low to your house ends in poor efficiency and circulation. CFM too excessive and you're venting your costly heated or air-conditioned air outdoors. Air resistance too excessive and also you threat burning out your fan motor pushing air by grease filters and such.

What’s the Distinction Between a Belt Drive and Direct Drive?

The quantity of air you have to transfer largely determines this selection. Different concerns are the air temperature and static stress. The key distinction between belt drive and direct drive followers is whether or not the motor is within the air stream.

A belt and pulley system connected to the motor shaft drives a belt drive fan. In distinction, a direct drive fan has the fan blades or wheels linked on to the shaft.

Clearly, a direct connection is extra mechanically environment friendly. There's much less vibration and there are fewer shifting components to keep up. Direct drive followers are compact and the ability from the motor is transmitted on to the fan blades.

Direct drive followers are much less adaptable to altering situation, expose the motor to heated and soiled air and have a better preliminary value that belt drive followers. Belt drive followers are greatest for functions the place the exhaust is greater than 122F.

Belt drive exhaust followers use stronger and better velocity motors and may regulate to variable speeds. The motor operates outdoors the air stream. Upkeep of a belt drive system is extra complicated than a direct drive system.

So Which Fan Is Proper for You?

Deciding on the best industrial kitchen exhaust fan is a part of your total air flow system. There are lots of calculations and concerns to get to the best reply. Our professionals are at all times prepared that will help you. Be happy to contact us along with your questions.

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The Ultimate Gas Furnace Troubleshooting Guide

Trying to find some quick ideas regarding how to keep your gas furnace in tip-prime condition this Wintertime? The Ultimate Gas Furnace Troubleshooting Information will answer your whole questions, which includes how to turn with a furnace, how american standard hvac services to change a furnace filter, how to check a furnace's airflow, how to proceed if a furnace isn't going to ignite, plus much more.

We hope you discover this guidebook to become handy - and we hope you continue to be warm this Winter season!

A) How to Turn In your Gasoline Furnace

It sounds simple, but believe it or not, Lots of individuals don't learn how to turn their furnace on or off. Here's a simple, move-by-phase breakdown:

* Discover the breaker in your furnace. It is really Component of the electrical panel, which is normally located in your basement, utility area or garage. The breaker ought to be clearly labeled having a fuel furnace sticker. Switch the breaker for the "On" position.

* Identify and switch within the furnace change. It is usually somewhere in the vicinity of The underside of your basement stairs - in some cases while in the ceiling, in some cases from the furnace home itself, and usually at eye stage or marginally increased.

* Set your thermostat. Verify the furnace is on after which make sure that the selector change is ready to "Heat". At last, adjust your set level temperature, and that is it - your furnace is turned and able to warmth your home!

B) How to Check and alter Your Furnace Filter

Right servicing of the furnace filter can assist enhance airflow from the furnace, which is able to keep it working successfully and economically through the coldest months from the calendar year. To forestall burnout of one's furnace pieces, we suggest inspecting your filter regular and modifying it each and every 3 to six months. This is how it's done:

* Start off by diligently opening the furnace's exterior rack or panel doorway.

* Eliminate the furnace filter by sliding it out. Take a look at the filter to discover if you can find any darkness or discoloration.

* If you can't see in the filter, It can be definitely time for your new just one. Slide The brand new filter to the furnace, ensuring that that it is installed while in the course from the airflow. And that's it - you're finished!

C) How to check Your Furnace's Airflow

If a home in your own home is just too cold in the course of the winer, it'd be because your furnace isn't really giving ample warm air through the registers in that particular area. There is a easy way to test the airflow from a furnace registers to be sure They are really Functioning thoroughly -- the rubbish bag airflow exam.

The examination is A fast strategy to estimate airflow by analyzing just how long it requires to fill a typical plastic rubbish bag. While It's not necessarily a precise measurement, it is a lot better than no measurement whatsoever and will give you a fantastic Thoughts as to whether you need to contact a technician to look at your ductwork.

To try and do the rubbish bag airflow examination:

* Tape the mouth of your garbage bag to your coat hanger or bit of cardboard to help keep it open.

* Crush the bag flat and place it over the register or exhaust hood.

* Depend the volume of seconds it will require for your bag to completely inflate.

If the inflation time is:

* 2 seconds = 37 L/s (75 cfm)

* four seconds = 20 L/s (40 cfm)

* 10 seconds = ten L/s (twenty cfm)

When the calculated airflow is fewer than ten L/s, the furnace is delivering only a little quantity of warmth to your room and needs to be further more inspected to determine why the warmth is not really going through.

The garbage bag airflow take a look at is also practical In case you have altered your heating or cooling programs or have created key renovations to your house.

D) Furnace Service Salt lake city If the Gas Furnace Fails to Ignite

If you can listen to that your furnace is on and the enthusiast is managing, but all you are having is chilly air, you likely have ignition failure. Test resetting your furnace by turning the switch to off for a minimum of 10 seconds, then, turning it on once more. If that does not do the trick, give your HVAC contractor a get in touch with.

E) Furnace Troubleshooting Checklist

Feel your gas furnace has Stop? You can help save yourself the price of a no-heat provider contact by checking the following:

* Would be the furnace change in the on position? It may are turned off by oversight.

* Would be the thermostat thoroughly established on the "heat" posture along with the temperature established to your usual warmth location?

* Is the furnace venting blocked by snow or ice? If that's so, try to remove the blockage.

* Are the programmable thermostat batteries new?

* Could be the circuit breaker in the electric panel in the right posture?

* Could be the furnace doorway correctly closed?

* Has the filter been adjusted recently? When you've checked almost everything around the record and your furnace nevertheless is just not Functioning, give your neighborhood HVAC contractor a phone, and they'll Get the furnace back up and running at the earliest opportunity.

File) Tips on how to Effectively Take out Vent Blockages

In the event you grow to be aware of a furnace problem Which may include the exterior vent, do a quick inspection and find out if any snow, ice or some typical domestic item is likely to be blocking the vent. If so, ahead of getting rid of the obstruction, head within 1st and turn the off the ability to the furnace. Now, you could safely and securely distinct absent whatever is blocking your exterior vent. Once you're performed, flip your furnace again on using possibly the breaker or even the change.

An absence of airflow throughout the furnace's inside vents could suggest your furnace enthusiast motor has seized. If this has transpired, Do not attempt to fix the condition your self - contact the specialist furnace mend experts at your local HVAC contractor.

G) How to Stop Air Leaks and stop Warmth Reduction

Air leaks account for a substantial degree of a house's heat decline in winter - resulting in improved heating charges as your furnace continuously attempts to exchange The nice and cozy air which has escaped from your household. Correcting these leaks will save you dollars on your own heating payments.

To halt leaks close to windows and doors:

* Take out the trims diligently.

* Fill massive cracks or gaps with foam backer rod, oakum, or growing polyurethane foam.

* Replace the trims and caulk together the perimeters.

To halt leaks along baseboards:

* Caulk along the seams with no eliminating the baseboard.

* Eliminate the baseboard and caulk amongst the wall and the floor.

To halt leaks all over electrical retailers on outside walls:

* Transform off electricity into the outlet and take away the outlet cover.

* Install a foam insulating pad.

* Replace the outlet deal with turn the power back again on on the outlet.

To prevent leaks within an unfinished basement:

* Caulk underneath the basement sill plate and around the joists by using a rubber-dependent caulking or acoustical sealant.

* Caulk any gaps in which ducts enter a wall or ceiling.

* Insulate ducts with preformed wraps or duct-taped insulation batts.

To prevent leaks within your attic:

* Seal any cracks.

* Weather conditions strip your attic doorway and close it tightly.

H) If a Gasoline Smell is Detected

From the not likely function that you scent a little something just like a rotten egg smell, you might have a gasoline leak. Don't activate any electrical switches and open up your whole Home windows. Then, visit a neighbour's household and get in touch with your HVAC contractor or your neighborhood gas service provider instantly.

Holmes Heating is easily the most trustworthy Ottawa HVAC contractor, specializing in duct cleaning service and also the sale, rental, set up, assistance, and upkeep of purely natural gasoline furnaces, air conditioners, water heaters, and humidifiers.

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ERV & Heat Recovery Ventilation Systems Reviews

Here offered is the erv system reviews.

Simply, HRVs and ERVs provide a balanced, controlled, and measured quantity of fresh air into the residence to cycle out pollutants, while additionally shooting and replacing the heat—or smart energy—from the exhausted indoor airflow with the incoming air. This trade preheats incoming air in the winter, or “pre-cools” it (if to a lesser extent) in the summer, lowering the electricity demand on the home’s essential heating and cooling equipment.

 Because furnaces, warmness pumps, and air conditioners don’t have to work as tough or as long with an HRV or ERV supplementing them, they additionally may function longer at choicest tiers and gain higher investment values.

 The tools design of an HRV is fairly simple: It is typically comprised of two fans that push a balanced quantity of incoming and outgoing air, respectively, thru constant filters (some with HEPA technological know-how to seize most airborne pollutants) positioned to efficiently facilitate an trade of warmth between the two flows. ERVs follow the identical established format and thinking but with an additional, separate chamber to manipulate humidity levels in the air exchange.

 To allow whole-house managed ventilation and preserve superior indoor air pressure, HRVs and ERVs are sized based totally on the square footage of the home and the unit’s cubic ft per minute (cfm) rating, a calculation that roughly equates to 0.05 cfm per rectangular foot of conditioned space; a 2,000-square-foot house, then, would require a unit with at least 100-cfm ventilation ability to acquire a fee of 0.35 air modifications per hour, the industry-accepted ideal change fee for proper ventilation.

 To impact that performance, ERVs and HRVs should be connected to the home’s central forced-air heating and cooling system, gain a balanced airflow, and have two connections to the outdoors—one to bring in clean air, the other to exhaust stale indoor air.

 The two exterior duct ports want to be separated four to 6 toes from each different to keep away from cross-contamination, while the consumption pipe also must be positioned away from gas meters, vehicle parking areas, combustion appliance vents, and trash receptacles. Suppliers normally offer angled hoods to accommodate circumstances the place best distances between pipes and achievable contamination sources can't be achieved.

 Inside, the fresh, incoming—and now semi-conditioned—air can be delivered from the HRV/ERV with the aid of an impartial duct to one or extra places in the residence or, extra simply, related to the return vent in a ordinary forced-air system.

 The effect of introducing preheated or precooled air into a room or rooms will not solely freshen the indoor air but also reduce demand on the heating or cooling tools to circumstance the incoming air.

 In contrast to the incoming air thru the home’s forced-air network, the removal of the stale exhaust air must be ducted independently, ideally from countless rooms in the house, directly to and via the HRV or ERV. In the case of an ERV, ducts need to at least vent air from rooms that generate moisture, such as the kitchen (though now not without delay from a range hood), baths, and laundry areas. “That’s the perfect setup because you can put off tub fans,” Gentry says, a tradeoff that helps tip the upfront fee and labor premium for an HRV/ERV into better balance.

 According to the EPA, HRVs are most least expensive in intense climates (hot or cold) and the place energy charges are high; in mild climates, the electricity consumed by an HRV may additionally exceed the quantity it can save.

 In hot, humid climates—specifically a swath from East Texas alongside the Gulf Coast states and up through the Carolina coastline—the predominant want is cooling the indoor air and often the removal of humidity. For these environments manufacturers and building scientists suggest ERVs for whole-house controlled ventilation.

 ERVs seem and work similarly to HRVs, however with the brought ability to modify humidity ranges in the incoming air before too lots of that moisture is added to a cooling condition. By disposing of extra humidity—also known as latent energy—from the incoming air, an ERV helps mitigate the attainable for condensation and associated problems of mold and degradation internal the house.

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6 Things You Should Consider Before Choosing A Kitchen Hood

If you are planning to build or remodel a kitchen, one of the most important appliances to be considered is a range hood. If there is a stove in your kitchen and you use it, range hood is a must have. When you cook, particles and scents released usually stay in air. The job of a custom metal kitchen hood is to eliminate this unhealthy smoke and odor, so that you can make your cooking experience as comfortable as possible.

The market of kitchen hoods can be a bit overwhelming as there are myriad of options available. That said, here are a few things that you should consider when choosing a custom metal kitchen hood.

1. Exhaust system:

A vented system or a ducted exhaust system, uses ducts to push the air out of home. This means that you can't vent it to other interior space of your home. If you have a ducted system, the best idea is to mount your kitchen hood to an exterior wall. This will make your space way more energy efficient. The further it is away from the exterior wall, the more complicated will be the installation.

With non-vented systems, the air is filtered and returned back to the kitchen. While their installation is easy, they usually require more maintenance, filter replacement and cleaning.

2. Kitchen layout:

Your kitchen layout plays a major role to figure out how much space you want and how to keep your kitchen hood in place. Depending on what your kitchen configuration is, you can choose a custom metal kitchen hood. If you want to save space, choose a downdraft or telescoping kitchen hood.

3. Estimate kitchen hood energy:

Did you know that you can determine how much air can a kitchen hood extract per hour with the help of simple calculation? CFM (cubic feet per minute) can give you an estimate of how much a particular hood can replace. All you have do is multiply CFM by 60.

4. Style:

Sure, functionality matters, but you will always prefer buying a kitchen hood that complements the appearance of your kitchen. It should reflect your personal style. Consider as many finishes as you want to and see what suits you the best. Apart from that, you also need to see if it gets along with your home's architectural style. It should incorporate fairly well with the kitchen.

5. Fan power:

The size of your kitchen will help to determine how powerful the kitchen hood fan should be. Multiply the ceiling height with the length and width of the room. This will give you an idea of the volume of your kitchen.

6. Consider noise:

No matter how powerful or stunning your custom metal kitchen hood is, it is not the right choice if it sounds like an aircraft. Choose a kitchen hood that draws the air near as it helps to reduce the noise level.

So, buy a kitchen hood today!

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How to Create a Custom Range Hood in Your Kitchen

The custom range hood of this black-and-white kitchen in one of our custom home remodels is the perfect focal point for the room.

More and more homeowners are steering away from industrial-grade, stainless steel range hoods and are opting for custom millwork to complete their kitchens.  If your stove is the focal point of your kitchen, then the range hood should complement it accordingly.  But installing a custom range hood is not just a matter of building a wood box and painting it.  As in all things construction, you can’t forget about the logistics behind the finish piece, and that often involves multiple trades.  Here are a few tips to help you when considering a custom range hood for your kitchen.

You Need a Hood Liner Insert

  When creating a custom range hood, you are not going to be using a standard range hood fan.  You are looking for something called a hood liner.  This is a specific piece of hardware designed for those building a custom range hood.  Most appliance stores sell these separately.  You do not necessarily have to find a hood liner to match your range, since the liner will be covered up by millwork.  You just need to make sure it includes all the features you want, and that the dimensions match the width of your range.

  You Need to Know What Size Duct Your Home Needs

  The air duct that runs from your hood to the exterior of your home needs to be a specific diameter, in order to account for the amount of air flow which will be affecting it.  Ventilation power is measured in cubic feet per minute, also known as CFM.  Every range hood has a different CFM, which depends on a variety of factors:

  How many BTU’s of heat your stove uses. BTU stands for British Thermal Unit and refers to the amount of energy required to increase the temperature of a pound of water by 1 degree Fahrenheit.  Every product generates a different quantity of BTU’s, depending on its size, the number of burners, whether it has a grill, and so on.  Essentially it is going to depend on how much heat your stove generates.  If you have a heavy-duty, industrial-grade range, for instance (such as Wolf, Viking, top-of-the-line GE, Thermador, etc.), you are likely to have higher BTU’s.  Thus, you will need a larger duct in order to remove the higher levels of exhaust fumes.

  How many turns your duct has to make when it is installed. We all know that the shortest distance between two points is a straight line.  However, what if your line has to be bent and turned half a dozen times in order to make it through wall cavities, up through a second and third story, and out the roof?  Your exhaust fumes are going to have a much longer journey out of the kitchen.  Therefore, you will need a larger-diameter duct (higher CFM) in order to help the fumes escape. 

  This 8-inch diameter duct has been installed in this ceiling cavity in preparation for a custom hood over a gas range.

How much heavy cooking you will be doing. If you are at professional chef status in your home, and that stove is going to be generating a lot of steam and/or strong smells, then you will need a larger duct size in order to prevent grease build-up in your kitchen. 

  The size of your kitchen. Yes, it’s true – the size of your kitchen does affect the size of the air duct in your range hood.  Larger kitchens contain more air to circulate through the space, which requires stronger fans. 

  Whether your stove is electric or gas.

An electric stove typically calculates its CFM based on the width of the range.  To guide you, consider that you will need roughly 100 CFM for every 10” of width on your electric range.  So if your stove is 42”, you will need at least 420 CFM.

A gas stove, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated.  They produce a lot more fumes and a lot more heat than an electric stove, so they require higher CFM’s.  When searching for a gas range, look for the number of BTU’s advertised in the product information.  It is usually given as the per-burner BTU (typically somewhere between 400 and 18,000 BTU’s).  Simply add up the BTU output of each burner and divide by 100.  That will give you the correct CFM requirement for your range.  For instance, if the total amount of BTU’s on a cooktop was 45,000, then you would need a range hood with at least 450 CFM. 

  The best way to ensure you are purchasing a hood liner with the correct CFM is to consult with an HVAC contractor (or your general contractor) before ordering.  Your HVAC contractor knows how to ensure he installs the correct size duct for your range.

  Design and Build the Right-Sized Box

  Now that you’ve removed the old cabinets or hood from above your range, installed the correct ducts, and installed the right hood liner for your stove, you are ready to build the custom range hood.  Remember to design your custom hood before you build it!  Now you can flex your carpentry skills and build the box in the right shape and size, then trim it out with finish pieces to match your cabinets.  Caulk and fill nail holes, paint or stain your hood, and suddenly, your kitchen will be totally transformed!

  Greg Nelson, Building Contractor, and Kevin, our Senior Cabinet Maker, go over designs for a custom range hood at our shop

  For more information on construction, construction tips,  renovating, remodeling, home additions, design-build and design tips subscribe to our YouTube Channel today!  

  Nelson Construction and Renovations, a family business founded in 2006, is a design-build company that specializes in high-end remodels, home additions, and custom homes. With our headquarters in Clearwater, Florida, we serve homeowners all over Pinellas and Hillsborough Counties. We are an award-winning member of the National Association of the Remodeling Industry and have an A+ rating with the Better Business Bureau.  

Creative Commons Attribution: Permission is granted to re-post this article in its entirety with credit to Nelson Construction and a clickable link back to this page.

The post How to Create a Custom Range Hood in Your Kitchen appeared first on Nelson Construction & Renovations, Inc..

source https://nelsonconstructionrenos.com/how-to-create-a-custom-range-hood-in-your-kitchen/

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Choosing the Right Commercial Kitchen Exhaust Hood

Whether you are renovating an existing commercial kitchen or setting up one in a brand-new restaurant, understanding the kitchen’s cooking appliances – specifically the commercial kitchen exhaust hood – is an important decision.

As we’ve previously discussed on the blog, the exhaust hood in a commercial kitchen is the starting point of the commercial kitchen ventilation system. That’s because it must be carefully matched to the type of cooking operation your kitchen will be performing.

Here’s why:

Fire Suppression

If the appliances you are cooking on produce any smoke and grease, your commercial kitchen exhaust hood must be equipped with a fire suppression system. This will allow your establishment to meet any building and fire safety codes.

Removal of Smoke, Heat & Grease

You want to always quickly remove smoke in a commercial kitchen for the health and safety of your kitchen staff. Additionally, smoke not properly removed will eventually migrate into the restaurant’s dining room and drive away potential customers.

As with smoke, it is also important to remove heat from your kitchen to keep staff healthy and safe. Working in an unbearably hot kitchen can cause a host of health issues. Most importantly, removing grease prevents kitchen fires. It also becomes a major cleanliness issue with grease is not properly removed as it can settle on kitchen surfaces and require additional cleaning time of staff.

Odor Control

The last thing you want as a restaurant manager or owner is food odors spreading throughout the restaurant. A commercial kitchen exhaust hood will properly vent the area and remove those questionable odors from the kitchen and restaurant.

Types of Commercial Kitchen Exhaust Hoods

Now that we understand WHY restaurants need vent hood in their kitchen, let’s discuss the two main types of options currently available on the market.

Type 1

Commonly referred to as “grease hoods,” Type 1 hoods are designed to remove heat, smoke, condensation and other by-products of cooking like grease. These types of hoods must be installed at or above all commercial-grade grease or smoke-producing equipment including deep fat fryers, broilers, fry grills, steam jacketed kettles, hot top ranges, ovens, barbeques and rotisseries.

That’s because Type 1 hoods capture the air above appliances. This type of air is mostly made up of grease, food particles and other kitchen debris and must be capture before the air is exhausted to the exterior through a system of ducts. Additionally, Type 1 hoods require regular cleaning to prevent costly and potentially dangerous grease fires.

Type 2

Also referred to as condensate hoods, Type 2 hoods collect and remove steam, vapor, heat, odors and moisture from kitchen appliances that do not produce grease. This includes coffee machines, non-conveying pizza ovens, general ovens and commercial dishwashers.

Type 2 hoods create a more comfortable working environment for restaurant kitchen staff because they help remove excess heat from the air. Additionally, since these types of hoods do not need a grease filter, they can be made from standard galvanized duct instead of fully-welded duct typically used for Type 1 hoods.

Tips for Choosing the Right Commercial Kitchen Exhaust Hood

Finally, once you’ve determine the types of hoods needed in your restaurant or commercial kitchen operation, it’s important to consider the following additional factors:

Hood Exhaust Rate

Measured in cubic feet per minute, or CFM, the amount of exhaust air your vent hood must remove from your cooking space depends on heat, smoke, the amount of grease produced by your cooking appliances and the type of foods you are cooking. Whether you are cooking more fatty foods which create more grease or using an open-flame which will produce a thermal plume, these factors need to be taken into consideration when calculating the exhaust rate for your commercial kitchen exhaust hood.

Hood Design

Not just aesthetically pleasing, the hood design for the commercial kitchen exhaust system is also based on performance and the type of appliance being used during cooking operations.

Proximity Hoods: These types of hoods are smaller, can be placed closer to cooking appliances and require the least amount of exhaust to be affective. Styles include eyebrow, pass over or back-shelf vent hoods.

Wall-Mounted Canopy Hoods: These types of hood are mounted on the wall and serve as the exhaust hood for a number of cooking appliances installed against one wall. These hoods are typically very large and require a tremendous amount of exhaust volume compared to proximity hoods.

Island Canopy Hoods: These types of hoods hang from the ceiling and serve as the exhaust hood for a number of cooking appliances in an island configuration. These hoods will require even more exhaust volume than wall-mounted canopy hoods.

Hood Size & Mounting Height

A correctly-sized hood must be able to handle the entire capture zone of your kitchen’s cooking appliances. This means it should extend beyond the area where appliances are installed to limit the amount of grease and smoke migrating into surrounding areas.

Additionally, the hood must be installed an at appropriate height. A hood installed too low or too high will affect the amount of grease and smoke collected from the cooking appliances.

Hood Ventilation Design

Just as important as the hood itself, the ventilation design has a huge impact on the effectiveness of a commercial kitchen exhaust hood. This means the size and shape of the ducts to the outside, the length of the ducts, the number of ducts and directions of bends needed to properly vent a commercial kitchen can require a higher exhaust rate.

Additionally, if you are installing a Type 1 hood with a fire suppression system, you will need proper insulation and access panels to your ductwork for ease of maintenance later on.

It’s also important to consider make-up air (or MUA) in the ventilation design. This type of system can be installed to ensure that enough fresh air is entering the building to replace the contaminated air that’s being exhausted. Without it, your restaurant can have air balance problems that cause drafts and odors to migrate throughout the building.

For all these reasons (and more), designing a restaurant’s ventilation system in the kitchen requires specific knowledge and expertise. A professional exhaust cleaning company like Halo Restoration Services can help. Additionally, routine system cleaning by a professional will keep your vent hoods free of dangerous grease build-up, preventing fire hazards while prolonging the life of the exhaust system components.

The post Choosing the Right Commercial Kitchen Exhaust Hood appeared first on Halo Restoration Services.

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[itsworn]

Killer-Looking and Running 1,100-Horsepower 1982 Chevy Camaro

In October 2015, Brian Wise crashed his racer to scrap—but he was able to walk away from it without wounds. He sorely wanted to get right back up on the horse … but didn’t want to build one from scratch out of his back pocket when what he really needed was a good roller, a proven car. Recycling someone else’s pile meant he’d spend less time in the shop and more time out racing. While this is sometimes a good way to go, you might end up unfixing all the crap the other guy did before beginning your project.

He knew right where to go. “This car was built, loved, and raced for 17 years by our good friends Jim and Monika Frendt,” said Brian with a smile. “Jim and I had been discussing what I might build and he tossed out the idea of selling me his pride and joy. After talking with my wife and my pal Troy Aves, we hooked up the trailer and made the 600-mile trek to Jim’s.” During that interlude, Brian formed the rough draft in his head of how to exploit the 1982 Camaro.

On the leg through Kansas, they stopped in Topeka to see another of Brian’s cohorts, fabricator and chassis builder Tim Webb. After hours of sticking their heads together, the boys had filled in the blanks on the rough copy and emerged with the course of action.

“We took the car home, stripped the interior out and test-fitted the drivetrain. It was set for the return trip to Webb’s for the front chassis work to be done and for him to have the headers fabbed up.” Tim’s brother Chris used the lull to string the Spaghetti Menders harness and switch panel that Brian had stripped from his wrecked racer. While he and Tim were up there, they installed the VFN dashboard.

Brian’s a 275 drag radial proponent and active in the Limited 275 class. Mindful of his recent dance on the dark side, he wanted the next envelope to be even more secure. Brian sought steel-helmet refuge under a 25.5-cert rollcage erected by Riffel Motorsports in Newton, Kansas.

Tim Webb carried on, constructing the tubular front clip as well as an aluminum engine mount, the mid-plate, and the radiator support. Menscer Motorsports/AFCO struts comprise the suspension. The Strange Engineering front brakes carry minimal two-piston calipers on 11-inch rotors. To prepare the drive end, Webb hoisted the Moser/Racecraft axlehousing and located it with the multi-adjustable Menscer/AFCO assemblies, an antisway bar, and a modified Spohn torque arm. Wilwood 11-inch discs fit neatly behind the foot-wide rear beadlocks.

Concurrently, many miles from Haysville, Kansas, TRE Racing Engines down in Cleveland, Texas, was building a 582ci DRCE race block with a Callies crank, MGP aluminum rods, and a complement of Bill Miller’s high-compression forgings. The Comp roller features nearly an inch of lift. Brodix Head Hunter castings are CNC-ported and feature 496-cfm intake ports.

A Victor II intake manifold hosts a giant Accufab throttle body and a fat Nitrous Outlet fogger that liberates 800 hp additional. Tim’s last big effort went into building and routing the exhaust system. He stepped the header primaries from 2.5 to 2.75 inches and channeled the trash through 4.5-inch horns that blossom business-like through the fenders, as is the style these days.

For the drivetrain, there was no other choice than a Flip-O-Matic. A what? For decades in Wichita, Flip Williams has been doing automatic race boxes. Since the 582 would make more than ample grunt in a weight-balanced 3,200-pound berserker, the transmission in Brian’s third-gen is a Coan Turbo 400 that Flip converted to a more expedient two-speed operation.

To some of us older chaps, a white drag race Camaro is immediately reminiscent of anything with the name Jenkins on it. It’s not very exciting but considering its mission and its function, the Arctic White palette is perfect, even more so were it dotted with sponsor logos. Originally, the body rehab was administered by Jim Frendt, Rob Seaton, and painter/racer Jake Delmonico in St. Paul, Minnesota. Before it was repainted in 2013, the fuel filler cap was shaved and the car stripped of even more superfluous bits to satisfy the bare-bones weight bogey.

In the cockpit it’s civilized, no echoes, no stripped-out doors or bleak bare floors and it’s all minimally covered with something that looks real. Brian plants himself in the Jerry Bickel carbon-fiber bucket seat, pulls the G-Force harness over his shoulders, hawks the Holley digital gauge pack, and then kicks the shifter into gear. “The car made its first pass in September 2016. It briefly held the Tex 275 class record with a 4.74 at 147. But mainly, I compete in Limited 275 Radial Tire series at Kansas City International, Tulsa Raceway, and North Star Dragway in Denton, Texas.” On October 14, 2017, he ran a 4.70/151 with a tight 1.12-second 60-foot time.

Brian’s been captured by the sheet of solid sound for more than 30 years and says that it was his first job at an automotive machine shop that did it—the owner was big into drag racing. For the white Camaro’s second term, Brian gathered Tim Webb, Chris Webb, Troy Aves, Shannon Wise, James Wise, and Jason Metcalf. Further, he says the calculations wouldn’t have turned out as well without help from Killer Wax, Ultra Collision Repair, Down Right Racing, and Seibert Performance.

What for him was the most challenging aspect of the accelerated 10-month build we asked? “Being patient,” he said. We think there’s more to come from Brian Wise and his dedicated cabal. CHP

Tech Check

Owner: Brian and Shannon Wise, Haysville, Kansas

Vehicle: 1982 Camaro

Engine

Type: Chevrolet Performance DRCE 2 block

Displacement: 582 ci

Compression Ratio: 14.0:1

Bore: 4.610 inches

Stroke: 4.375 inches

Cylinder Heads: Brodix Head Hunter 24-degree, CNC-ported, 496-cfm intake runners, 2.40/1.85 valves, blended bowls

Rotating Assembly: Callies crankshaft, MGP aluminum connecting rods, BME pistons, Total Seal ring packs, King bearings

Valvetrain: Jesel 1.8:1 shaft rocker system, titanium retainers, Victory valvesprings, Jesel beltdrive

Camshaft: Comp Cams 60mm roller (0.950-inch lift, 288/316-deg. duration at 0.050), TRE fabricated rocker covers

Induction: Edelbrock Victor II intake manifold, Accufab 2,200-cfm throttle body, Nitrous Outlet Stinger 3 fogger (800-shot), Holley Dominator ECU, 3-gallon RCI fuel cell

Ignition: MSD Digital-7 Plus controller, MSD primary wiring

Exhaust: Stainless stepped 2.5-to-2.75-inch primaries, 4.5-inch collectors built by Tim Webb (Topeka, KS)

Ancillaries: Meziere water pump, SPAL fan, custom radiator support

Machine Work: TRE Racing Engines (Cleveland, TX)

Built By: TRE Racing Engines

Output (engine only): 1,100 hp at 8,000 rpm, 800 lb-ft at 6,500 rpm

Drivetrain

Transmission: Coan Turbo 400 (assembled/converted to two-speed by Flip-O-Matic Transmissions, Wichita, KS), Coan converter, finned pan

Rear Axle: Moser M9, spool, 4.10:1 gears, Strange Engineering 35-spline shafts, Precision Technologies 3-inch chrome-moly driveshaft

Chassis

Front Suspension: Stock spindles, tubular clip by Tim Webb, aluminum front- and mid-plates, Menscer/AFCO struts, AFCO springs, chrome-moly rollcage 25.5-cert installed by Riffel Motorsports (Newton, KS)

Rear Suspension: AFCO springs, Menscer/AFCO dampers, Wolf Racecraft antisway bar, modified Spohn torque arm

Brakes: Strange Engineering 11-inch rotors, two-piston calipers, front; Wilwood 11-inch rotors, two-piston calipers, rear; Strange Engineering master cylinder

Wheels & Tires

Wheels: M/T Pro 5 15×3 front, M/T Pro 5 (w/ Racecraft beadlocks) 15×12 rear

Tires: Hoosier Drag Front 26.0/4.5 front, M/T Pro Drag Radial 275/60 rear

Interior

Upholstery: Jerry Bickel Race Cars

Material: Cloth

Seats: Bickel carbon fiber

Steering: Custom post, Grant Performance GT wheel

Shifter: TCI Outlaw

Dash: VFN fiberglass dash hydrodipped in carbon-fiber film by Leading Edge Graphics

Instrumentation: Holley EFI 5.7-inch digital screen gauge pack, wiring by Tim and Chris Webb

Exterior

Bodywork: Jim Frendt, Jake Delmonico, Rob Seaton

Paint By: Jake Delmonico (St. Paul, MN)

Paint: PPG Arctic White

Hood: Down Right Racing fiberglass (Vero Beach, FL)

Grille: Stock

Bumpers: Stock

The post Killer-Looking and Running 1,100-Horsepower 1982 Chevy Camaro appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

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[home-improvement-and-decor-blog]

5 Things to Consider Before Splurging on a Kitchen Stone Hood

Kitchen stone hoods aren’t only artistic they are also very convenient. They not only remove unwanted smells and help keep the kitchen clean—they can also serve as a focal point for the room and as an extension of the owner’s style and taste.

Where you’re thinking of investing in a new kitchen stone hood or are remodeling your kitchen, we’ve noted five things you need to consider before moving ahead with the decision.

 1) How much ventilation do I require?

When choosing the size and power of a kitchen stone hood, the stove underneath will be a key determinant, obviously a larger stove requires a larger hood. The more BTUs the stove cranks out, the amount and type of cooking that will be done are all things to consider. Many stove manufacturers have recommendations on the amount of ventilation needed.

 Kitchen range hoods are rated by how much air they can pull out of a given area, measured in Cubic Feet per Minute. As a starting point, the Home Ventilating Institute recommends a minimum CFM of 40 for a hood mounted against a wall and 50 CFM on an island. Their recommended levels are 100 CFM against a wall and 150 CFM for an island. Of course, a stove’s heat output, the size of a hood and the kitchen itself should be taken into account, with the highest CFM number used after calculating each of these requirements separately.

 The HVI recommends taking a stove’s BTU rating and dividing it by 100 to find a minimum level. For example, a stove with a 30,000 BTU rating would require a kitchen hood with a capacity of at least 300 CFM.

 A kitchen stone hood should be able to cycle the air out of the entire kitchen 15 times per hour. Simply multiply the kitchen’s dimensions (floor area square footage x ceiling height) to determine its volume, and then divide that figure by 4.

 To account for hoods over an island, just multiply the minimum CFM by 1.5. 

For “professional style” stoves, the HVI recommends following the manufacturer’s advice to determine ventilation requirements. 

 2) The Cost

A simple non-vented, recirculating kitchen stone hood might be found for less than $100. A standard exhaust hood in the $100 range with a couple of speed settings could offer fan speeds of less than 200 CFM. At prices approaching the $200 level, speeds exceeding 200 CFM are available, often with air chambers and fans designed to reduce noise.

 Hood designs become more decorative at the $350 level with quieter designs, maximum speeds of 400 CFM and extra features such as digital controls, temperature sensors that turn the fan on and off, plus sensors to indicate when the charcoal filter needs to be replaced or the grease filter needs cleaning, usually by putting it in the dishwasher. Halogen lighting is typically offered on models costing $400 or more.

 It might be tempting for someone to sink their money into an expensive range or some fancy tile and skimp on the kitchen stone hoods. An inexpensive hood would likely be noisier and draw less air.

With such a unit, a homeowner might also have to run the fan at a higher speed to get adequate ventilation, resulting in more noise, or they might avoid turning it on altogether which negates the point of installing a range hood in the first place. When a kitchen isn’t properly ventilated an oily film can develop throughout the room that’s hard to remove.

 3) The noise

If noise is an issue, a larger hood might allow a less powerful fan speed to be used. Also, a powerful fan with variable speed control would give the flexibility of cranking up the power when needed or to get the air flowing, then dialing it back. A stronger fan would likely be less noisy when run at a lower level.

The fan’s location should be considered as well. A unit that’s mounted on a home’s exterior would produce less noise in the kitchen itself.

Fan noise levels are rated in Sones, which is a measure of how loud a sound is perceived. A modern refrigerator is roughly 1 Sone. This can be hard to determine as less inexpensive hoods might not provide Sone levels, while makers of quieter units like to brag about it. One manufacturer boasts that its quiet model rates 6 Sones, which is roughly 65 decibels or about the level of a conference room conversation.

Something else to consider is making sure the ductwork is of the right size, as one that’s too constricted can increase the noise level.

 4) Kitchen Stone Hoods Pros and Cons

One of the most obvious considerations on the type of kitchen stone hood is the size of your stovetop and where it is placed in the room. A hood over an island will have to be larger than one against the wall, because an island hood has to capture air from both sides.

Insert hoods, which are concealed, can be useful for someone who doesn’t want to make it a focus of the kitchen’s design.

A downdraft hood, installed alongside the stove, would also be more concealed although the first option isn’t recommended. Heat and smoke rise in the air, so a downdraft hood would be less effective as it fights the laws of nature. They can also have a negative effect on gas ranges, as they pull the flames towards them.

For anyone unable to install ductwork in their kitchen, perhaps a condominium dweller, a ductless or recirculated hood could be used that recirculates air back to the room.

It does have a charcoal filter and they really work in that they get the air moving in the proper direction and they remove some smoke and smells and they’re better than nothing, but not by much.

 5) Latest trend and artistic design

Designers have responded to this trend in ways that allow people to use range hoods as a decorative feature that fits the overall look of the home. It doesn’t have to be so utilitarian because when you think about it a whole kitchen is utilitarian, but we find ways to make it look unique and nice so that every person feels like they’ve gotten their own slice of something very different. There’s no excuse for being boring anymore.

[itsworn]

How much carburetor do you need for your application?

Proper carburetor sizing and selection has been the topic of bench racing longer than most of us can remember. However, there is one fundamental truth when it comes to carburetor sizing and selection; there are but very few carburetors right-sized for your application and driving habits. Getting it right takes more than simple guesswork and even the formulas we’ve been using for generations.

We all have our favorite atomizers, however, carburetor selection is tricky science because every application is different. Begin your calculations with traditional carburetor-sizing formulas, then, figure in what makes your engine recipe unique. You can base carburetor size on an engine’s displacement alone; however, this approach isn’t effective because too many other elements come into play aside from displacement. Camshaft profile, cylinder head selection, intake manifold type, maximum rpm expected, axle ratio, transmission type and gearing, exhaust system, and how the vehicle will be used most of the time have to be figured in. If you’re a weekend racer, you may need more than one carburetor size and type depending upon the racing venue.

The first considerations of carburetor selection are displacement, cam selection, maximum engine rpm expected, and VE (volumetric efficiency) at the engine’s highest rpm. In order to calculate carburetor size, you must first understand volumetric efficiency (VE). Because internal combustion engines are air pumps, VE is about how efficiently an engine moves the air/fuel mixture in and out of the combustion chambers. The more air/fuel we can haul into each bore, the greater the VE. Each cylinder bore draws the air/fuel mixture in, compresses and ignites the mixture, and forces hot gases out. Another way to put it is: VE is the air/fuel mass ratio to the cylinder’s swept volume, meaning the objective is to stuff as much volume in there as possible. How do we come up with an engine’s estimated VE? On average maximum VE is around 70-75 percent for a street engine. A radical street engine will be more like 80-85. By contrast—racing engines max out at around 90-100 percent or more VE if an engine is on top of its game. Forced induction can see in excess of 100 percent VE.

To dial in an engine’s basic carburetion sizing, begin with the following formula:

350 x 5,500 = 3,456

An example would be 350ci Chevrolet street engine with 75 percent VE. Take 350 ci multiplied by 5,500 maximum expected rpm equal 1,920,000.

Then, take 1,920,000 and divide this number by 3,456 rpm and get 557 cfm, which calls for a 600-cfm carburetor if you’re planning 5,500-6,000 rpm. If you’re expecting a maximum of 6,500 rpm, you’re going to need a 650- to 700-cfm carburetor. These sizing numbers are only the beginning of carburetor selection—a baseline. A radical cam profile, large-port aftermarket cylinder heads, and a single- or dual-plane intake manifold determine even further how much carburetor we’re going to need. A 600-cfm carburetor may perform quite well on a stock 350 Chevy. However, the minute you start weaving in power adders like a hotter cam, a dual-plane performance intake manifold, and aluminum heads you’re going to need 700-750 cfm.

These basic formulas get us close to an engine’s carburetor sizing, but doesn’t hit the nail on the head. As a result, we have to take this formula a step further. Begin with estimated VE, which is always open to debate, depending upon how radical an engine is. To make the most of VE, we have to look at the intake manifold, naturally aspirated or forced induction, cylinder head design, carburetion, cam profile, and even bore/stroke dimensions.

Once you have baseline numbers, you have to select not only what size (cfm) carburetor you’re going to need, but brand and type. Vacuum or mechanical secondaries. Single or double-pumper. Choke or no choke. Swappable air bleeds or fixed. Single or dual metering block. And finally, how compatible the carburetor is with your throttle and automatic transmission kickdown linkages.

When it comes to choosing carburetor brands, all manufacturers bring something good to the table. You just have to decide which brand will work best for you. Look at design features, tuning capability, flexibility, and how a carburetor will relate to your engine, vehicle, and driving habits. Aesthetics plays a big role in carburetor selection because it’s important to like the way a carburetor looks when you pop the hood—especially with a show car.

What’s In Your Ride?

Carb selection begins with your engine’s most basic bones and how you intend to use it most of the time. Aside from the basic math formulas just presented, here are the elements you should consider when selecting a carburetor:

Displacement

Bore and stroke

How it will be used most of the time

Intake manifold: dual or single plane?

Camshaft profile and how it is degreed

Rocker arm ratio (which determines valve lift)

Cylinder head type: ported or untouched

Exhaust system, including headers

Aesthetics: do you like the way it looks?

Transmission type: automatic or manual and how it’s geared

Axle ratio

We’re bound to get arguments on some of this. However, when you’re shopping carburetion or even throttle body EFI, you need to figure in every element and how each will affect performance.

Displacement should be your first consideration because it is the most fundamental part of carburetor sizing. You wouldn’t install an 850-cfm carburetor on a stock 283. By the same token, you wouldn’t marry a 450-cfm carburetor to a 500ci big-block. An engine needs an adequate amount of airflow to meet minimum requirements. Yet, you wouldn’t want to overwhelm a low-displacement mill with too much air and fuel.

With displacement consideration come bore and stroke. Big-bore/short-stroke sports a different dynamic than small bore/long stroke. Short stroke engines are more about high revs and horsepower while long stroke powerplants cater more to torque and lower rpm.

How you intend to use your engine most of the time has a direct effect on carb selection. Daily drivers and road-going cruisers need less carburetor than their racing counterparts. If you drive a weekend racer daily you’re probably going to need two carburetors—one for cruising and one for racing. And don’t forget what kind of racing you intend to do. Drag racing is a different animal than road racing. If you’re on a limited budget, seek a compromise carburetor than enables you to do both daily driving and weekend racing. But, don’t kid yourself; you cannot have the best of both worlds.

Your engine’s intake manifold should also be chosen based on how you will drive most of the time. If you’re building a cruiser, choose a good dual plane manifold, such as the Edelbrock Performer RPM, which yields both low to midrange torque and plenty of horsepower at high rpm. By the same token, if you’re building a racer opt for a good single-plane manifold like the Edelbrock Victor Series with a generous plenum.

Drag racing is all about wide-open throttle, high-rpm, and horsepower. Road racing is more about torque and horsepower. You need brute torque coming out of the turns, which segues to horsepower coming down the straights. If your engine can’t muster torque coming out of the turns, you’re going to need a different strategy.

Torque is gained via the use of carb spacer. Spacer thickness depends upon hood clearance and performance. Carb spacers deliver torque because they increase velocity. The challenge is spacer thickness and how much of it you need. You can have too much spacer thickness and lose power. If you have the luxury of dyno access and the freedom of a stack of carb spacers, selection becomes easier.

Cam profile directly affects carburetor selection. Lobe centers, valve overlap, valve lift, and duration are all factors in carb selection. This leads us to cylinder heads. And this is where it gets complex because cylinder head port and chamber configuration vary even when we’re working with similar castings. A set of aftermarket small-block Chevy cylinder heads versus stock iron heads determines carburetor sizing. So do the talents of a good cylinder head porter. Chamber size and compression ratio. Aluminum heads can get away with greater compression, which also affects carburetor choice.

Headers and exhaust system are yet another consideration because they affect exhaust scavenging. Tied directly to this element is cam profile and something known as valve overlap. The smaller your header primary and secondary tubes, the greater the back pressure and exhaust gas velocity. Larger primary and secondary tubes yield less back pressure and the corresponding velocity.

With the engine covered we can move onto transmission and rear axle ratio. Transmission gearing, be it an automatic or manual, determine carburetor dynamics and sizing. Street-driven automatics tend to call for vacuum secondaries and a gradual roll-in as you mash the throttle. Mechanical secondaries are more compatible with manual transmissions. The same can be said for axle ratio. Cruising gears, such as 2.80:1 to 3.25:1 are happier with vacuum secondaries. By contrast, 3.75:1 to 5.30:1 cogs work better with mechanical secondaries. Are you beginning to get the picture? Carburetor selection hinges on the entire engine and vehicle package.

Carburetor selection begins with your engine’s most basic dynamics, displacement, bore size, and stroke. VE (Volumetric Efficiency) is how much air/fuel we can draw into each cylinder. Piston bottom-dead-center versus piston at top-dead-center is known as swept volume—that area above the piston when it’s at bottom-dead-center. You can have 350 ci with a big bore and short stroke, or you can have a small bore and long stroke. Both determine carburetor sizing and selection.

At one time, cylinder head selection was quite limited to factory castings and what you could do with ports and chambers. Today, cylinder head selection is the greatest it has ever been for all domestic engines. Think about carburetor type and size when you’re shopping cylinder heads.

Seems we focus more on intake port size and shape than we do exhaust ports. What bearing does this have on carburetor selection? Boils down to a cylinder head’s ability to scavenge exhaust gases coupled with cam selection.

Chamber design and port/bowl shape affect carburetor size and type. Chambers with good quench are less prone to detonation. Port and chamber work improve flow and valve shrouding.

Two Pontiac intake manifolds from Edelbrock side by side. On the left is the Victor single-plane high rise Dominator flange manifold for racing applications. On the right is the Performer RPM dual-plane square bore for street and strip. Manifold design determines carburetor selection.

The dual-plane manifold employs this split plenum feeding into long intake runners, which give us good low to midrange torque for street use. Tall runner ceilings deliver horsepower at high rpm. This is the Holley-style square flange. There are also spread-bore aftermarket dual-plane intakes designed for large-secondary Rochester (Quadrajet), Holley spreadbore, Edelbrock and Carter, and Autolite/Motorcraft 4300D series carburetors.

By contrast, this single-plane racing manifold is strictly high rpm with its short runners and huge plenum is designed for Dominator-flanged carburetors.

Here’s a Ford FE big-block dual-plane 428 Police Interceptor intake manifold. Long runners deliver both great low to midrange torque along with high-rpm horsepower. The square flange manifold is designed for Holley-based carburetors.

Carburetor spacers offer a number of benefits depending upon height. Think of a carburetor spacer as an extension of your intake manifold’s plenum. Spacers increase velocity and volume, which improves both horsepower and torque. They also offer added benefit at high rpm depending upon height. The taller your spacer the more power you can expect at high rpm. By contrast, a shorter spacer will improve torque and do less for horsepower. This is an Edelbrock PN 8712 2-inch spacer on top of a Victor manifold for road racing.

Here’s a four-hole spacer, which is more about low to midrange torque than it is horsepower. Also shown here is an open plenum gasket on top of a four-hole spacer. In theory, this spacer should have a four-hole gasket. Choice depends on how well your engine performs. Spacers also get carburetors away from manifold heat.

Not many of us have the luxury of access to an engine or chassis dyno. However, dyno testing is proof positive of what spacer height can do for power. When we test a variety of carburetor spacers, we learn what they do for power. Street engines benefit from the use of a 1-inch spacer, which improves torque most of the time. A 2-inch spacer, by contrast, can improve horsepower while taking away torque.

Check out this Wilson PN 024110 spacer for a Dominator, which is designed to increase velocity and improve VE resulting in more horsepower and torque at high rpm. The Dominator is not a street carburetor, but you get the idea. The Wilson spacer funnels air and fuel into the plenum with ever-increasing velocity for both horsepower and torque.

There are plenty of theories regarding which carburetor base gasket to use in a given application. Our belief is an open carburetor gasket with an open plenum. Yet a four hole gasket when using a four-hole spacer. We will get arguments on this one; however, you want solid carb gasket contact between the carburetor, spacer, and intake plenum.

Cam selection has a direct effect on carburetor sizing and type. A mild street profile with a focus on torque will call for less cfm than a radical street/strip cam with 110 lobe centers and generous valve overlap. The higher an engine’s peak rpm, the greater the cfm required.

This is the classic 650-cfm Holley PN 0-80783C with vacuum secondaries (arrow) and a single accelerator pump in the primary bowl. The redesigned classic Holley 4160–based carburetor has been a Holley mainstay since the early ’60s. Enthusiasts love this carburetor for its simplicity. You can run the Holley electric choke or opt for a manual. It is engineered to run with manual or automatic transmission. Vacuum secondaries make more sense for cruising than racing.

Venturi and throttle bore size determine cfm in this classic single-pump 750-cfm 4160 Holley. You can improve flow in the primaries by removing the choke plate. You may also work the venturis smooth to remove the stress risers and streamline airflow.

Holley’s HP Series carburetors are race ready and street friendly, which means the HP makes a good street carburetor if you don’t care about having a choke and want improved airflow. For racing the HP is a class act based on the 4150 dual metering block/double-pumper time-proven design. The HP is more about street/strip performance and is available in sizes ranging from 650-1,000 cfm. What’s more, it has swappable air bleeds and boosters, which make tuning a cinch.

Quick Fuel Technology delivers a family of terrific performance carburetors for any application imaginable. This is the 850-cfm HR Series carburetor in black, which has been ordered for a Ford FE 390 stroker displacing 431 ci. We’re talking stroke and brute torque, which comes from opting for this 850-cfm QFT double pumper. The HR offers you swappable air bleeds and boosters, twin metering blocks, and fuel bowl sight glasses.

We like Holley’s Ultra XP carburetor, which is 38 percent lighter and available in sizes ranging from 500-1,000 cfm. The smallest, a 500-cfm Ultra XP two-barrel unit, is specific to circle track use. The Ultra XP is available in Hard Core Gray hard coat anodized finish with black billet for improved corrosion protection. It is also available in natural tumble-polished aluminum with your choice of black or red metering blocks and baseplate. The Ultra XP comes in 600, 650, 750, 850, and 950 cfm.

The Holley Ultra Street Avenger is all business with its double-pumper/dual metering block 4150 design. These carburetors have the same great features as their aluminum cousins, such as a tumble polished aluminum finish; quick-change vacuum secondaries for easy tuning to optimize performance; four vacuum ports for all necessary vacuum accessories; factory preset electric choke for easy cold start; fuel filters; and an included fuel line kit to save you time. The Ultra Street Avenger comes with anodized metering blocks and a baseplate made from 6061-T6 billet aluminum and fuel level sight glasses for easy fuel level adjustment.

A quick way to identify carburetor size (flow) is throttle plate sizing. These throttle plates are 1.690 inches in diameter, which gives you some idea about cfm. Carburetors have identification numbers, which also help ascertain cfm. Throttle plates are secured with screws that have been peened or installed using a thread locker.

Holley-based square bore carburetors are generally considered street/strip use. This is the large-flange Holley Dominator first introduced in 1969 purely for racing use, though some are crazy enough to use these on the street.

The Gen 3 Holley Ultra Dominator sports a redesigned main body, state-of-the-art calibrations, high volume fuel bowls, and sizing up to 1,475 cfm. The new Dominator utilizes high-capacity fuel bowls featuring 20 percent more fuel capacity to head off starvation at wide-open throttle, an integrated fuel shelf to minimize fuel aeration and internal baffling to control fuel movement. What’s more, the Dominator employs all aluminum construction, 12-hole billet booster inserts, fully tunable billet metering blocks, adjustable external linkage, throttle position sensor mounting points, and knurled (hand adjustable) curb idle screws.

Easily the most important consideration when you’re shopping carburetors is infrastructure. Fuel line sizing and pumping capacity are everything to feeding horsepower and torque. You want a fuel pump that’s up to power demand. Fuel line sizing must be large enough to deliver. Although 5/16-inch is common, you’re going to want at least 3/8-inch diameter even if you’re running a mild street engine.

Most common fuel line sizes are 5/16, 3/8, and 7/16 inch. For most street rods and customs yielding 350-500 hp, 3/8 inch is plenty. Hard-line your system as much as possible in the interest of safety. Opt for braided stainless steel flexible hose. If budget calls for reinforced rubber, use high-pressure fuel-injection hose in carbureted applications. Today’s fuels have harsh additives that take a toll on conventional fuel hose.

The K&N Stubstack reduces turbulence at the carburetor’s airhorn improving airflow by reducing restriction. Stubstack fits on top of the carburetor airhorn. K&N tells us Stubstack can improve airflow by as much as 28-40 cfm depending upon carburetor size.

Once you’ve chosen the right carburetor, it is suggested you keep carburetor tuning and repair items on hand, a jet kit, gaskets, spare power valves, float valves, and the like.

And finally, carburetor selection goes hand in hand with what you have for exhaust scavenging. Header and exhaust system pipe sizing coupled with muffler type should be considered.

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