#Aquarium temp. controler

[enigmaticpink]

Rat cages do and dont's

I thought this would be a good reference post for those who have rats are or are thinking about getting rats, considering the amount of misinformation I see on this site about rat enclosures. I honestly could make a series of posts about rat care misconceptions as a whole but I think this is a really important one. Of course there are some exceptions to these, such as in the case of hospital cages or travel/temp cages, but that's not what I'm talking about in this post.

1. Do make sure it's the proper size

Rats need about 2.5 square feet per rat, and adding height or extra levels doesn't add to this, only adding floor space will. A critter nation, a popular rat cage, can only hold four rats. Adding a unit on top doesn't increase the amount of rats you can keep in one, only adding floor space by adding a unit on the side can increase the rat limit. 32x20x24 is the absolute minimum cage dimensions. There are many other brands that meet the requirements and are suitable, make sure to always check the dimensions. Plastic neon critter trails from PetSmart are never ever acceptable.

2. Do use loose substrate all along the base.

Rats are a fossorial species that need to be able to dig and burrow, and thus need at least a few inches of a suitable substrate to be properly enriched. Lining your cage with fleece or blankets is not suitable at all and is something I see many people doing too often. This is not proper rat care. Additionally do not use paper or clay pellets as a substrate through the whole base. Certain types of pellets are okay in litter boxes but aren't a suitable substrate.

Paper bedding is often used and it's not inherently harmful but paper has very poor ammonia control and the ammonia in rat pee is very bad for their delicate respiratory systems. You will need to change this out much more frequently to insure they're not breathing in a bunch of ammonia and it will stink alot more. Plus paper bedding can be more expensive. All around I wouldn't recommend it at all.

Wood shavings are a really good option, depending on the type. Certain woods like cedar and raw pine will release chemicals that aren't good for rats at all. Pine bedding is alright if kiln dried, but some rats still may be sensitive to it, in my experience. Aspen bedding and hemp bedding are great options. Make sure the bedding isn't too dusty, certain brands are less dusty than others, but it isn't too hard to sift the dust out on your own usually.

In the case of bio-active enclosures eco earth and other types of soil make really good substrates, but this type of cage set up honestly deserves its own post.

3. Do have proper ventilation

Like stated before the ammonia in their pee is very bad for their respiratory systems, therefor a cage needs to be properly ventilated. Bin cages, tanks and aquariums, any cage that doesn't have proper ventilation on all sides, is harmful. They need to have proper air flow in and out of the cage. That's why cages with the typical four wired sides and wired top is best. I even see homemade cages with two sides made of wood and two sides made of wire cloth and this isn't okay either. (Not to mention wood cages are improper as well do to pee absorption and being able to be chewed through)

4. Don't use too many levels

Little to no levels should be used in your cage if you want an active lay out. Try replacing them with lava ledges, ropes, branches, baskets and the like, to make the cage layout more enriching and to keep them active and healthy. Ramps especially aren't recommended, this can cause laziness, hind leg degeneration, and wired ramps can cause bumble foot. Wired anything except for the sides of the cage are a big no.

Some people keep one or a minimal amount of levels and I think this is okay depending on what you do with it. I keep one level in my cage to hold a dig box but all other additional levels have been removed.

5. Do fill it with the right things

A big cage that goes above and beyond the size recommendations but isn't filled properly is still subpar. They need lots of enrichment and alot of "clutter" so to speak, to feel safe. A wide open bare cage will not make them feel secure and they will be extremely bored.

They should have lava ledges and ropes and the like for climbing. Sea grass mats and branches made of safe wood also are great. Check beforehand to see if any wooden item is made of a wood that's safe for rats, as some wood is toxic to them. I personally use grape wood and apple wood in my cage.

Foraging toys are also a great, and I'd say necessary, addition to any proper cage. They need things to keep them from getting bored, they are extremely intelligent animals and foraging toys or small puzzles like that are great for them. Actually lots of toys for parrots are great for rats.

They should have at least a few different places to sleep, such as hammocks or hides. I like to have at least one of either for everyone rat.

Fall breakers. This is extremely important to insure the safety of your rats. If your rat falls from the top of the cage, fall breakers are there to catch them and avoid potential injuries. Seagrass mats, nets, and Ikea tie holders are amazing for this, I recommend multiple. You should have enough that there's not too many open spaces your rat can fall through. They also additional give your rat more things to climb on, making the layout more active.

Rats can be littered trained, and paper litter pellets are good for litter boxes, or a different type of substrate then the one you use for the rest of the cage. Just make sure the litter tray doesn't have a wired bottom.

Also additional I recommend having nesting material available in the cage, such as Timothy hay or orchard grass or anything along those lines. They really do enjoy putting nests together with them and it adds some texture variety for them.

6. Do have proper water sources

Rats should have access to clean, fresh water at all times. They should have multiple sources of water.

Bowls aren't bad but are very likely to be spilled, spoiled, or contaminated and need to be changed at least daily. If you do give them water in a bowl they should still always have at least one bottle, though I would recommend more depending on how many rats you have.

7. Don't house rats alone

I think most know this but I'm adding it on in case. Rats are social animals and you cannot replace their need for same species companionship. They should be grouped in groups of two at minimum, and two is the absolute minimum. Three or more is actually much more recommended. Housing a rat alone for long periods of time is down right cruel.

Also don't house them with non rat animals, such as mice and hamsters and the like. They should not under any circumstances be interacting with other species, other than their fellow rats and their humans. Your cat grooming them is not cute.

If there's anything I forgot to say, feel free to add on.

[hmdigitalindia]

COM-360: Waterproof Professional Series pH/EC/TDS/Temp Meter by HM Digital

HM Digital COM-360 model is a waterproof professional grade level pH/EC/TDS/Temp meter ideal for all water quality testings, hydroponics, water purification applications, wastewater regulation, aquaculture, colloidal silver, labs & scientific testing, pools & spas, boilers & cooling towers, water treatment and more. It has a built-in sensor for Automatic Temperature Compensation (ATC) ensures readings always be accurate at various temperatures.

The COM-360 Waterproof Professional Series pH/EC/TDS/Temp Meter from HM Digital is a handy, all-in-one device that measures pH, electrical conductivity (EC), total dissolved solids (TDS), and temperature in water. Its waterproof and durable design makes it perfect for use in tough environments like aquaculture, water treatment, and environmental testing. It’s easy to use with a clear digital display and simple controls, making it ideal for professionals in fields like farming, hydroponics, pools, and laboratories. With automatic temperature compensation, it ensures accurate readings, even when temperatures change. Compact and portable, the COM-360 is a reliable tool for anyone needing quick and precise water quality checks in various settings.

Applications:

Water Treatment: Ensures optimal water quality by measuring key parameters like pH, TDS, and temperature in filtration and purification systems.

Aquaculture: Monitors water conditions in fish farming and aquariums to maintain a healthy environment for aquatic life.

Hydroponics and Agriculture: Used to measure nutrient levels and water quality, ensuring balanced pH and optimal growing conditions for crops.

Pools and Spas: Ensures proper water chemistry by checking pH, conductivity, and temperature to maintain safety and comfort.

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Laboratory and Industrial: Perfect for precise water quality testing in laboratories, industrial processes, and research applications.

[ardentguilt]

Woke up to disaster this morning.

Went to bed last night and everyone was fine. Woke up and found Ich (white spot).

Figured I’d make this post with some info about treating it for anyone in a similar situation.

I have fish in this tank that are classed as ‘scaleless’ (ie Loach and Cory Catfish to an extent) which can be a little trickier to medicate.

So first up what it Ich?

Ich, commonly known as White Spot Disease is a parasitic issue that affects both freshwater and saltwater fish both in the wild and in aquariums.

Ich initially causes a loss of appetite, visible white spots and itching in fish but as it progresses these white spots will multiply and affect the breathing of the affected fish resulting in the fish staying near the surface and gasping for air.

Without treatment this is a fatal issue.

The white spots you see on fish with Ich are a sort of cyst. Eventually this cyst will rupture and release the parasite into the water where it will then attach to a surface and multiply. One single parasite can very quickly become hundreds if not thousands of parasites.

As such it is VERY IMPORTANT to treat the problem as soon as possible in order to have the best chance of recovery.

How do you treat it?

The best treatment for Ich is considered to be chemical treatment. Usually this will be in the form of a medication that contains Malachite Green.

Ideally you would pair this up with aquarium salt, increased oxygenation and increased water temperature.

The life cycle of Ich IS dependent on temperature to an extent. The warmer the temp the faster the life cycle of the parasite.

Now my tank is 130L so what I’ve done is note down the temperature ranges of each of the fish species in this tank and determine the highest temperature all species will tolerate which in this case is 27°C.

Step 1: I removed the carbon from my tanks filter as the carbon would filter out/inactivate any treatment.

Step 2: I turned up the air pump to increase oxygenation in the water.

Step 3: Introduce aquarium salt. I used API Aquarium salt and for this water volume I added 6 Tablespoons. The purpose of adding aquarium salt is to help adress the itching symptom and to aid the fish in gill function, stress control and disease recovery.

Step 4: Add the treatment. I have used Blue Planet Multi-Cure as this treats not only Ich but also Velvet which is very similar in presentation to Ich. As I have Loach and Cory catfish in this tank the dosage I used is lower than the standard dose and so I have used 16ml to dose this tank. The green color in the water comes from the Malachite Green. This is the stuff that will kill off the parasite that causes Ich.

Step 5: Re-dose with the Multi-Cure after 3 days.

Throughout this process continue to monitor the fish for any potential reaction and status of the Ich.

Products used:

[rajtuke]

The Importance Of A Aquarium Heater

When setting up an aquarium, there are many facets to keep in mind.Between the plants, the gravel, the filter, and lighting, there are a plentiful amount of decisions to make and lots of choices.However, one an important item that every so often gets overlooked is the fish tank heater.Different fish require different temperatures so make definite you research the requirements for the particular varieties, you decide on.

Fish typically need water temperatures of 80 degrees or above; in order to reach and keep these temperatures, a water heater is necessary.

Just like tanks come in many different shapes and sizes, aquarium heaters come in a wide range of dimensions with an assortment of features and at a variety of price points.

One of the most important characteristics of aquarium water temperature is STABILITY.

As a law of thumb, water temperature should not change more than a twosome of degrees on a daily basis.

A stable heater that can sustain a constant water temperature is a must.

Widely Use The heater is a Submersible Water heater for Aquarium

    Submersible Heaters

Just as their names say, submersible heaters lie under the water level in your tank.

Generally speaking, submersible heaters must stay submerged or they danger to damaging their heating element.

Keep this in mind each time you plan on changing the water or moving the heater or tank.

These types of heaters are commonly placed under the aquarium’s filter output, heating water as it enters the environment.

This technique keeps a steady stream of heated water circulating within the tank.

One recommended submersible heater would be the Thermostat CX-J25 300W / Heater

This particular heater even has a built-in thermostat and a visible temperature setting for a better experience.

Installation and Use

Heaters, regardless of their location relative to your tank, have different controls.

Make sure to read the manual that comes with your heater preceding to use it for the first time and definitely before adding fish to your aquarium.

Many internal heaters come with suction cups that will adhere to the side or bottom of your tank but check the packaging for this material before you buy.

If they do not come with the proper installation hardware, make sure you buy it separately.

Some heaters come with integrated temperature gauges to keep an eye on the temperature in the atmosphere.

Again, if this hardware is not included in your heating solution, take a separate thermometer before you leave the pet store.

Allow plenty of time for your aquarium water to heat up prior to adding fish, so that the glass and water can gain similar temperatures and prevent the glass from breaking.

Pick the Proper Heater

A common guideline for choosing a fish tank heater is to choose one that can output 3 to 5 watts of power per gallon.

The wattage of the heater determines the ability of the unit’s ability to heat and maintain the temperature within the aquarium.

Hope this post is useful for you. I would appreciate it if you can share this with anybody who you think might find this article useful too!

Drop a comment below with any questions that you might have or share your personal experience. Thank you.

Contact Us:

blessingsaquarium.com

Address (1):

Blessings Aquarium Shop No. 28, Imperial Residence, Near Barbeque Nation, Kalyani Nagar Pune 411006

Address (2):

Blessings Aquarium:

Prasad 2/7 Hindvijay Co-operative Housing Society Near Joggers Park,

Viman Nagar, Pune, Maharashtra 411014

Call us : +91 98814 93396

[zoologica42]

Heatwave survival!

Ok, heat tips from 115 degree fieldwork/New Jersey weather weirdness, not sure if it helps, but hey, what the heck, can’t hurt!: 

Gatorade (or similar drinks) is a lifesaver, especially if you aren’t acclimated to high heat. Get a bunch of those ridiculously sized bottles that you wonder who in their right mind would buy, and sip it throughout the day, even if you think you don’t need it. You need fluids and electrolytes, which you will be loosing! 

 Close any blinds or cover windows with towels. Block off greenhouses and/or sunrooms as if they were filled with hordes or raging zombies.

Any zoo housing temperate or Arctic species has AC, same with most museums that house large amounts of organic/volatile material. Most public libraries are also temp controlled.

 As enjoyable as it is, don’t stick your head in the fridge for prolonged periods of time. In the end, it will make the fridge run harder, emitting more heat.

 Regardless of gender, I personally give you permission to not wear a shirt (who’s going to notice if your blinds are closed anyway?).

Nausea and dizziness are VERY BAD, especially together! Do whatever you can to get cooled down if you experience either or (especially) both. This is a sign of heat exhaustion, DO NO IGNORE IT.

Our old boy Shakespeare knew what he was saying when he said “For now, these hot days, is the mad blood stirring.” People tend to be more emotional, and possibly violent  than normal in temperature extremes, that may include yourself. I nearly had a breakdown in a Trader Joe’s recently . Be forewarned that everyone might be a little more on-edge during heatwave events. Don’t Judge yourself by the heat tolerance of others! if you’ve ever had a fish tank, and acclimated fish to temperature in their plastic baggies, you know how important acclimation to temperature difference is. 

You, in this situation, are a goldfish dumped right into an unsuitably warm aquarium the dark hand of an uncaring universe, of course you are going to be stunned by the heat.

other people that live in hotter climates might be better acclimated, don’t compare yourself to them.

stay safe out there goldfish-person

[whumpbby]

Hi! So this is kind of a random ask, but I know you have beta fish, and I’m considering getting one. I’ve had beta fish in the past, and despite educating myself on how to take care of them they haven’t lived very long, so I’m hoping you’ll be able to help me. For my past beta fish, I keep them in a five gallon tank (for clarification, I never had more than one beta fish at a time. So I didn’t have multiple of them in the tank don’t worry—they just all lived at different times in the same tank) that had a filter with a pretty low flow on it. I never saw any of the fish have problems swimming with it on. I always used a highly rated water purifying product for the tank water (I forgot what it’s actually called) and I never had any sharp plants that would hurt their fins. I fed them a little every two days because I heard that feeding them everyday was bad for them. Do you happen to know what I was doing wrong? It was frustrating for me because I put a lot of effort into keeping them alive and healthy and then I would see people who kept them in small half gallon bowls have their fish outlive mine. It’s been a couple years, and I want to get another, but I don’t want to accident hurt/kill another one. How do you care for your beta fish? Do you have any advice? Sorry about the rant, but I follow you for your Jason content and happened to stumble upon some of you fish posts and need help. Thanks so much for reading this, and if you do end up offering any advice, I want to thank you for that too!

Hi dear, sorry if I took long to answer - tumblr notoriously does not inform me of messages>> 

I understand your pain - especially that the situation with bettas is very frustrating. They tend to suffer from quite a few genetic defects (they are prone to tumours, for example) and are a very abused fish in the aquatic industry.  Oftentimes by the time they will get to a caring and dedicated owner, they’ve already went through a lot:0 We just don’t know how healthy the fish is before we got it. 

I am by no means an expert, I have lost a few babies since I started the hobby a couple years ago and I can only assume what a few of them suffered from:( One thing that seems to work is leaving them and the tank alone for as long as you can once it’s all set up and cycled and running - apart form the regular maintenance. I am a chronic fiddler who needs to change and add plants, filters, etc, so I constantly have to hold myself back form doing things to the tank. My sister has the same betta for a second year now and the only thing she does with her tank is water changes once every couple weeks - and both him and a thousand of cherry shrimp that live there thriveXD 

Some things I nowadays pay attention to that may be useful, however, are:

- water temp has to be consistent, on the warmer side. I keep mine at 26-27C (I don’t know how much that is in F, sorry>>). To that effect the tank needs a lid - it will trap the warm air, protecting the betta form inhaling cold air then they come up for a breath. They labyrinth breathing organ is quite sensitive to that.

- I feed my boys twice a day, so I am not a part of the ‘feed them little’ club. I give them a little pinch of the good flake in the morning (Bug Bites is nice) and a 3-4 granules of a King Betta or a pinch of a protein-rich micro pellets in the evening. A betta breeder I talked to a couple times advised that it’s better to feed the boys a couple times a day in small quantities rather than once - keeps their digestive tracts working and they can avoid constipation. Constipation happens often with bettas and is a headache to solve. I leave frozen bloodworms for special occasions and just rotate the dry foods for variety.  

- I change water every week - and every other week make sure to vacuum gravel the substrate. In the planted tanks I vacuum only about 2-3cm of the top layer to not disturb planting substrate below and not to suck up any shrimp, so it’s a gentle operation. In the gravel where there is no growing substrate I go deep - the reason being that I want to free any possible air bubbles stuck underneath where bad bacteria may grow. 

- Pick a filter and stick to it. I was very bad at that, but I finally managed to hotwire a combo that seems to work so I will stick to it;) If you can stand the noise, I advise a sponge filter - it’s so easy to clean and manageTT If you can’t stand the hum of the air pump and the bubbles, I recommend a matten filter - or hotwiring an internal filter to a sponge filter - like so - instruction in German, but the visuals are very self-explanatory;] I used gel superglue to connect the filterhead to a sponge filter and now all I have to do once a month or rarer is to pull the sponge off and squeeze it few times in the used tank water! And sometimes clean the showerhead from algae;] It saves you so much money on the cartridges (corner sponge filters are a couple £/$ and last years) and provides extra filtration. My shrimps also eat off it;] 

- get a snail. Seriously, I have a snail in every tank - a single nerite will do best for a 5gal. They don’t breed in sweet water, don’t grow large and will keep your glass clean for you - I have not cleaned my tanks’ glass since... ever>> Joe I and Joe II do it for meXD They also provide company for the betta and something fun to look at. And he will scarf uneaten food form the gravel. 

- I assume you know about the nitrogen cycle, so I will not bore you here about bacteria and such. But a best chance of saving the betta form stress when you get him home is a cycled tank. You can get an ammonia testing set - or, if you find that a bit intimidating (I do for some reason) you can go to an aquarist shop and they will check your water for you. My local store in town does it for free. I am not sure about big box stores, tho. If you see something being wrong with the betta, check water and see if it needs to be changed asap. 

- water changes are mandatory and have to be regular. A 5gal is a convenient size - I am using a 5l bottle left over from mineral water as a measuring tool;) This way I know I am always changing roughly 1/4th of the tank’s water. It’s very easy to see how much water I removed and how much I have to put back in - I can control the water temp and add dechlotinator/vitamins etc before it goes into the tank, so I do not shock my critters with too hot or too cold water. The rule I practice is leaving the dechlorinator in the bottle for about 10 mins before pouring it all into the tank. 

- you don’t have to be intimidated by planted tanks:) A little bunch of anubias on a stick is often enough to start with and a good look for a tank, in my opinion. It also makes for a more natural space for the betta he will certainly appreciate. The less fancy stuff the better - I got my first natural rocks form the side of the road (ofc I boiled the life out of them before they got even close to the tank) and they are usually quite cheap on amazon. A stick with a plant and a rock and some small-size gravel is often enough to look good. The plants will also help with eating up nitrites and keeping the water healthy.

- goodness, what else. Medicaiton. Ok. I have tried many meds for my boys and once the fish is in a bad way not much will help, form my experience :( My med set consists of Melafix - I add it to water according to instructions whenever I see my betta without appetite or acting off. It’s a mild anti-bacterial mixture that does not affect snails/shrimp. If that does not help, I use eSHa 2000 or eSHa Exit - they are two very comprehensive meds that deal with a variety of problems. I have never used aquarium salt, but some people swear by it - there’s no specific reason I don’t use it, I just never got around to it.  

This is all the chaotic advice, but things to remember (I am not trying to be condescending, I just don't know how much you know;]) are: cycled tank, regular water changes&filter maintenance, consistent temperature and quality food. Bettas are hardy little suckers, but sometimes they are also frail in ways we can’t see until it’s too late. I am already seeing a tumour growing on one of my boys and there is nothing I can do about it except giving him the best life I can - he is still going strong, but I know he will probably not last to the end of the year. It’s a hobby that sometimes seems thankless, but if you do everything right, even if they leave early, at least you’ve given them a good and peaceful time before that:)

If I you have any more questions or just want to share woes, feel free to message, I will do my best to answer:)

[skaletons]

Betta fish fins are so cool

[imagine-organization-xiii]

THAT BEING SAID - if you DO watch south park, maybe have the org members favorite south park episodes?

My favorite South Park episodes of all time with forever be “You’re Getting Old”, and its follow-up episode, “Ass Burgers”

WARNING: South Park is not known for it’s kindness. If you’re unfamiliar with the show and want to watch these episodes, be prepared for violence, language, idiocy, and generally content that people are sensitive about.

oOoOo

Xemnas - Trapped in the Closet - Several religious leaders recongize Stan as the second coming of L. Ron Hubbard, and a whole soap opera unfolds with the help from a famous R&B sensation.

Xigbar - It Hits the Fan - Society is almost destroyed when a popular television show uses the word "shit" on the air.

Xaldin - A Nightmare on FaceTime - The boys are excited to go trick-or-treating, dressed as the Avengers, but Stan is unable to come because Randy has bought a Blockbuster Video franchise location in South Park.

Vexen - Put it Down - Tweek freaks out over bomb threats from North Korea; Cartman threatens to kill himself unless he gets respect.

Lexaeus - You Have 0 Friends - When attempting to delete his Facebook profile, Stan is sucked into a virtual Facebook world; Kyle befriends a friendless third-grader, with drastic consequences.

Zexion - Fishsticks - Jimmy comes up with the perfect joke, but Cartman wants to take half the credit for it. However, Kanye West doesn't get the joke, and vows revenge on the person who came up with it.

Saix - The List - The girls in the fourth grade class have made a secret list that rates every boy's looks from cutest to ugliest. When the boys steal the list, they are completely unprepared to deal with the results.

Axel - The Poor Kid - After Kenny's parents are arrested and he and his siblings are sent to a foster home, Eric searches for who is the new poor kid in South Park and the results are shocking. Mysterion must help his brother and sister and the rest of the foster children get out of the abusive foster home.

Demyx - Free Willzyx - When a prank convinces the boys that a whale in a local aquarium is an alien from the moon, they go to extreme measures to send it home.

Luxord - The Death of Eric Cartman - When the boys decide to ignore Cartman, he assumes that he is dead, and enlists Butters to help him make up for his past sins.

Marluxia - Black Friday - The children of South Park form two battling contingents to get a PlayStation 4 or an Xbox One during a Black Friday sale. Meanwhile, Randy takes a temp job as a security guard at the mall in order to make a little extra holiday money.

Larxene - Breast Cancer Show Ever - Cartman makes fun of Wendy after she delivers a report on breast cancer. She challenges him to a fight, but he keeps finding ways to get out of it. But he also won't stop making fun of her.

Roxas - Mysterion Rises - Mysterion assumes control of South Park's superhero alliance after The Coon is kicked out. Meanwhile, The Coon plots his plan for revenge by conspiring with the enemy, and where is Captain Hindsight when the world needs him?

Xion - The Hobbit - After Butters turns down a fat girl that asks him out, Wendy is upset over Butters' crush on Kim Kardashian because she says Kim is actually a short fat hobbit who uses photo shop to make herself look more attractive.

[iantojonesthebetta]

Hi Mason!

Sorry to bother you. I have followed you for years and have been super grateful for all the education you’ve provided about betta care. I have learned so much from your blog and was hoping for some advice.

I got a new halfmoon about 2 weeks ago from a petstore. He’s in a 10 gallon tank (filtered, heated, etc.) and I noticed a dark spot on his tail late last week and a little bit of ragged edge compared to the first few days home. I’ve been doing ~20-30 percent water changes every day since… last week when I tested I did have a small spike of nitrite in the water (less than 25 but more than 10, and 0 ammonia).

Right now I’m at 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, temp at 80 degrees. There’s nothing in his tank that he could tear himself on, and I baffled his filter a couple of days ago just to be safe, although it was barely causing a current to begin with. He has lots of tall silk plants to rest on near the top. He’s eating well and still super active and friendly.

It doesn’t seem like his tail is getting much worse, but it doesn’t seem like it’s getting better either. Today I noticed that his belly seems to be getting pale compared to the rest of his body. Do you think I should just wait it out, or would you say it’s time to move up to medicating? Does this look like finrot or something else in your opinion?

I tried to get some pictures for you but he’s a quick little dude. I appreciate any advice you can throw my way ♥️ The first pic is his first day home, the second is him tonight with the spot circled. His top fin is down like that from zooming, not because it’s clamped haha… when he slows down it still fans out nice.

–

Hi, there! What a beautiful boy!

Since this was sent a few days ago, has anything changed? I never recommend medicating until you’re sure what you’re dealing with. I find with red and blue bettas, pale stomachs seem noticeable, too, just because of their natural golden sheen around there.

Unfortunately, you are very likely going to have a rough time with his fins throughout his life, which is why I personally just don’t bother with halfmoons anymore. More times than not, you’ll lose your mind because, aside from all the other ways that fins can be torn, he may start tail biting, which could already be starting (though it’s hard to tell from these pics/description alone). Considering it’s just in one spot and it’s on the caudal, I’m leaning towards tail biting.

It sounds like you got the water parameters under control. Keeping up with it is essential with tail biters to help avoid potential infections. Every now and then, you can add a touch of aquarium salt to help with any healing. I’ve found Indian almond leaves to help promote healing as well. When I had a tail biter, using IAL seemed to reduce the frequency in which he bit his own tail, but that could’ve just been coincidental as well.

I hope this helps!

EDIT: Also keep in mind that some black edging on the fins may also be natural colouring coming in.

[hmdigitalindia]

PPH-1000: Single Line pH and Temp Controller

HM Digital is a company known for its high-quality water testing instruments and equipment, including meters for measuring parameters like pH, TDS (Total Dissolved Solids), EC (Electrical Conductivity), and more. The PPH-1000 controller is a versatile tool for managing water quality by monitoring and controlling pH levels automatically. These instruments are widely used in various applications, from home aquariums to industrial processes, to ensure water quality and safety.

HM Digital India

Address- Plot No. G1-375-376, RIICO Industrial Area, Khushkhera, Alwar, Rajasthan 301707, India

Phone- 6377716055

Visit - https://hmdigitalindia.com

[abaxter]

E-Cigarette APV Evaluation

Greet back folks to get todays review that comes to us coming from Vaporesso and is over the new FORZ TX80 Kit. This gear is a change from cures normally see coming from Vaporesso being this their devices have an overabundance of a upscaled look for ways to them. The FORZ TX80 Kit can be described as waterproof, shockproof, dustproof kit, yes also the Tank. Vaporesso claims that finishing the airflow all the way down completely and settling the supplied plastic drip tip top on that the Aquarium is waterproof at the same time, I could be drastically wrong but I think would you first in the industry. Prior to when I tell you your experience with the FORZ Kit lets take a look at some detailed home elevators the FORZ TX80 Kit by Vaporesso.

MENU

5 presses of the potential button turns the extender both on/off

3 presses in the power button lcks the adjustment control keys

Holding that menu button with regard to 3 seconds and pressing it three times will open that menu up

First up is a new F(t) manner that sorta antics like a power competition automatically in my opinion

Next is beat mode followed by electrical power eco mode that will conserves battery lifetime

Then can come smart TC for all you Temp adjustments and various metals

In that case comes DIY manner where you can choose VW, VT, VV, BP and Super Person mode

Following is system arranged for further modifications such as brightness, display flip, version, default, auto eco

AXON CHIP 2 . 0

The new Axon processor chip 2 . 0 spent some time working very well with a immediate fire that is which means that fast you need to be cautious not to touch that fire button as soon as picking up the device since the device might give you a fright when the coil activates LOL.

I am some sort of straight wattage vaper so I couldn't explain anything about how that chip performs with TC one way or another. As i tried the new F(t) mode but truly didn't notice high of a difference from upright wattage but which might be just me. So i am very pleased with the innovative chips performance do not ever having any issues with the device itself.

SUMMARY

Using the FORZ for ones couple of weeks I've have it it has advanced, let me explain. Lake first took off the top and lower cap of the gas tank they felt gritty when re screwing both caps in place. After on the subject of 3 or 4 tank refills the top cap is fine no more gritty threads. As far as the base cap, when I adjusted out the pre-installed coil to test a 0. 4Ω coils everything was good with the threading. Just one reason I perhaps mentioned this is in the event that any of you of which buy one possess this happen to all of them, it should work by itself out very soon like mine did. This particular tank has 3 airflow slots issuing it massive circulation wide open but will dialed down to a good RDL. The gas tank is somewhat high in volume and whoshy even if smooth from uncovered to very shut down with no whistle at any choice of airflow I tested out. Flavor was typical at first but advanced with each gas tank refill.

The look with this tank is a appear of toughness of which as I said quicker was proven by having a 5 foot tumble on to hard wood floor coverings without even a nothing. I even for example the Drip Tip by using it's chrome hoop showing at the bottom. A tank fits get rid of flush to the machine adding to it's look and feel. As far as the coils go I chosen the 0. 4Ω coil at 56w because of battery everyday life, both coils conducted the same. One other factor on the tank can be that she's a good juice guzzler, which happens to be fine because together coils are quite large. I do not received a dried out hit in the quite a few tankful's of beverages used during the course of this particular review

The FORZ device itself is often a very comfortable along with ergonomic mod along with being a single 18650 device even though it is really beefed up together with the protection it isn't of which heavy in my opinion. I actually wish that it is a 21700 despite the fact that because teaming that with a tank which uses coils that want wattage in the 40-80 watt range I have to carry a increased battery if I'll be out along with it for a long time.

I really hope Vaporesso comes out with a coil nailers in the 30w vary simply for battery sustainability. The device will accommodate those that need it truly is toughness but also to help you folks looking for some thing attractive as well. This screen although to some degree on the small edge is very vivid and possesses plenty of information which are required minus a use the e-cig counter, you do purchase a puff timer although Vaporesso really should manipulate a puff counter top instead of the timer most definitely with this device.

Scrolling through the wattage vary is done fairly effective moving in. 5 increments to the max involving 80w, this device will never round robin. My partner and i tested the mods waterproof capability's in the sink full of liquid with no problems. Consequently the FORZ TX80 Kit performed perfectly for me.

I would like to help you thank Jasmine, Jessica and Vaporesso meant for providing the FORZ TX 80 Supplies for review and additionally I hope this examine helped anyone looking at purchasing one designed for themselves.

[fbwzoo]

I’m officially going to lose my mind.

There’s MORE. MORE BABIES.

Someone else dropped eggs in the salt water pool. I discovered this because I’m a dumbass who looked at the big tank AFTER I had just finished transferring all of the 5 days old babies from the bowls to 1/2g canning jars & setting them up with airstones. 

So.......Now we have two batches of babies. It is officially Day 5 and also Day 1. Here’s some pics of updated Baby Central:

The four jars starting from the left are the 5 days old group. The last two on the right end are the new ones. I have two air pumps going now to supply everyone with air. The light strip only just fits over them all... this means NO MORE!! 😂

Over to the left of the baby jars is all of my supplies. The rest of my air supply stuff in the petsmart bag, my gallon pitcher for water changes, prime, the aquarium calcium (which I don't think I'm going to use anyway, the reef salt should arrive tomorrow). Food, which consists of reef snow, nannochloropsis, decapsulated brine shrimp eggs, brine shrimp eggs for hatching, zooplankton, chlorella powder, spirulina powder....and I have frozen brine shrimp in the freezer.

Aaaaand temp gun, I have an aquarium thermometer in one of the jars (oh Mary the temp is up with the light on them - it was at 78!). A package of disposable pipettes, which are WONDERFUL - I can cut them higher up for a larger opening so I don't feel like I'm hurting the babies with the tiny opening. A jug of distilled water for calibrating refractometer, and refractometer for checking salinity.

The only thing I don't have now that I really wish I did is a water testing kit. I should've gotten one today, but as it is I already spent $100 at Petsmart for all of the air supply stuff. x.x I've already put twice as much money into this as I should've, oops. Should've known I would do this, sigh. No self control when it comes to animals! ...Which is what got me into this mess to begin with. 😂

.....So yeah, if anyone is feeling generous & wants to help a bit with the madness, I would love you forever - https://ko-fi.com/fantasticbeasts

[goddamnmuses-a]

this OR that                  

Bold which one your muse prefers.

harry potter OR lord of the rings coffee OR tea day OR night summer OR winter rain OR shine sports OR books movies OR theatre being liked OR being feared having lots of acquaintances OR having a few close friends reading OR writing camping OR hotels small towns OR big cities cats OR dogs texting OR talking on the phone sleeping in OR getting up early staying up late OR going to bed early talking OR silence money OR talent lying to spare someone’s feelings OR being honest and direct avoiding confrontation OR fighting absolutely everyone working hard OR taking things easy not touching a single human being OR cuddling everyone ever optimism OR realism one night stands OR a long term relationship telling a joke OR hearing a joke accepting comfort OR giving comfort kissing OR touching helping someone OR being helped taking from others OR sharing keeping secrets OR being an open book telling the truth OR telling a white lie cooking OR eating takeout OR restaurants sweet OR savoury drugs OR alcohol alcohol OR food pop music OR rock music pancakes OR waffles  library OR museum love OR money chocolate OR vanilla cheese OR chocolate pasta OR pizza online shopping OR in-person shopping smoking OR non-smoking smoking OR vaping paintball OR the arcade rollercoaster OR ferris wheel formal OR casual sneakers OR dress shoes/heels poker OR chess anxiety OR depression fear OR anger zoo OR aquarium spa OR gym office work OR outside work shower OR bath leather OR lace security system OR a dog hero OR villain (depends) optimist OR pessimist ghosts OR hallucinations quick temper OR controlled kisses OR hugs structured routine OR flexible neat freak OR messy New Year’s OR Valentine’s Christmas OR Halloween Sex OR Cuddling Music festival OR Broadway show Introvert OR Extrovert Teleportation OR Mind reading Stephen King OR J.K Rowling Forget who you were OR who everyone else was Forgiveness OR Vengeance Know when you will die OR how you will die Work with an asshole OR a liar

Tagged by @amarexestxanimas​ Tagging  anyone

[mountphoenixrp]

We have a returning citizen in Mount Phoenix:

                                 Chiori Yako, who is known by no other name;                                                   a 23 year old daughter of Loki.                                                 She is a clerk at Stop&Paws and                                  an aerial silks/acrobatics instructor at Zero to Hero.

FC NAME/GROUP: Takemura Kiriko/Kyary Pamyu Pamyu CHARACTER NAME: Chiori Yako AGE/DATE OF BIRTH: 23 / January 29, 1996 PLACE OF BIRTH: Kagoshima, Kyushu, Japan OCCUPATION: Clerk at Stop&Paws, Aerial Silks/Acrobatics Instructor at Zero to Hero, Freelance Model HEIGHT: 5’2 DEFINING FEATURES: None

PERSONALITY: The first thing most people notice about Yako is that she seems to never take anything seriously. This is true enough, as Yako tries to keep everything at arm’s length. She figures that if she never gets too close to a person or a situation and doesn’t start to care about anything, she can never be hurt again. Because of this, Yako also comes off as morally ambiguous and carefree, more than happy to play pranks that hurt people (not majorly, of course) if it gives her some sort of twisted happiness or serves some sort of purpose that she cares about, such as impressing someone important to her. She’s not afraid to bother or even to hurt people with her pranks and is tireless in her pursuit of entertainment and excitement. And above all, love.

Yako’s carefree attitude also leads her to be impulsive, never quite thinking her actions through to the end. Even if she does (and she always does despite her carefree facade), she will usually decide to go ahead with her impulses anyway because things are more fun that way. She is also a spontaneous character which allows her both to pursue new opportunities as well as to get into a whole mess of trouble. She’s chaos incarnate standing 5ft. 2in. tall.

The reason for her relentless cheeriness and impulsivity is obvious the moment Yako lets down her guard: in reality she really does care an awful lot about everything. Everything bothers her, especially her past. She thinks about her precious little brother constantly and anything that even remotely brings her back to the moment she hurt him or the events caused by the situation immediately brings her to tears. As soon as her facade wears through, Yako is prone to breaking down, sometimes in sadness and other times in anger. These breakdowns are not only entirely unpredictable but also uncertain as to what the result may be. Something seemingly harmless to others can throw Yako into a rage, while other things may cause her to run off in tears. Still, she does her best to bottle these reactions away and so they don’t happen too often, but when they do, the breakdowns can be explosive. Sometimes literally.

HISTORY: Chiori Momoko was a poor woman who lived near the beach in Kagoshima. She often spent time at the beach or the aquarium with her young daughter. The girl looked strange, like she was part Japanese, but another part something unfathomable. Unplacable. Some who didn’t know the small family well gossiped over who the girl’s father might be, since Momoko never spoke of her daughter’s father. In truth, even she didn’t know the identity of a man; he had been a short-lived love affair of the sort that sometimes springs upon lonely office workers. When her daughter was born, Momoko had to take time off work, and since that time she never quite managed to pick the pace back up. When she was fired from her full-time office job, Momoko had to take several temp jobs as a secretary to make ends meet, leaving the small family very poor. However, when the child, Yako, was three years old, her mother took her to the nearby aquarium on a rare day off. While there, the two met a kind gentleman who introduced himself as Mr. Shimizu, and the mother and daughter quickly charmed him. They found out later that he was the owner of the aquarium, the largest and most extravagant in Kyushu. Momoko and the aquarium owner were quickly married, and Momoko pregnant with their first child not long after. Yako’s stepfather never quite treated her the same after he and Momoko were married. He wasn’t cruel, but he didn’t quite act like her father either. He did, however, allow her free reign to play in the aquarium so long as she didn’t get into trouble. The Chiori family grew wealthy with the marriage, allowing Yako a privileged and luxurious life. She didn’t want for much. And yet, as her mother had her first child from the marriage, Shimizu Hoshio, and then twins - a boy and a girl named Saita and Sakura - Yako was ignored. Her stepfather favored his own children over his adopted one no matter how many times he denied it. The one bright light in her life was Hoshio, her half-brother who loved her more than anything. It was with him that Yako played with most often, and with whom she most often got into mischief with. He helped her play pranks on aquarium staff and hid her secret when Yako learned that she could transform into the animals she touched.

It was a skill that she honed quickly and secretly. The only person who ever knew was Hoshio. He helped her gain access to the various tanks, allowing her to brush up against a wide variety of aquatic animals. When she entered high school, Yako took a job as a part time worker at the aquarium. Her stepfather allowed her the responsibility of feeding some of the animals and cleaning their tanks, allowing Yako even more contact with various animal forms. That didn’t stop her from getting up to tricks and schemes. The older she got, the cleverer she became. Yako, often with the help of Hoshio, played many tricks and pranks on aquarium staff over the years, including her own mother and stepfather. Her stepfather did not find these pranks funny. Still, they became more elaborate and with more severe consequences - Yako’s subconscious reaction to being ignored for so long. The attention she received from them became addictive.

When one particular prank got out of hand, injuring one of the aquarium staff as well as her precious Hoshio, her stepfather decided that he had had enough. Her mother’s arguments were in vain when the man cast her out at 18 years old, banishing her from the house and the aquarium. And so the girl took to the sea, mourning the loss of her mother and especially that of her precious brother. She lived there as this or that sea creature, occasionally returning to land to indulge in various short-lived (and often abusive) relationships, or to sneak a visit to Hoshio who always welcomed her back with open arms and an open heart. One of these times, Yako found Hoshio with a letter for her. It was from an anonymous sender, and contained only the directions to some mysterious place called Mount Phoenix that the sender suggested she seek out. And so, at 21 years old, Yako said goodbye to Hoshio yet again and made her way to the mysterious island. Since her encounter with Hades on the island, Yako has been hesitant to come back. Against her better judgement, she decided to go ahead and do so. What is life without a little mischief?

PANTHEON: Norse CHILD OF: Loki POWERS: Shapeshifting: Yako has ‘collected’ many different aquatic forms from working in the aquarium, including most animals found in an aquarium and many found in aquatic conservatories (excluding rare and endangered creatures), as well as the common household pets (cats, dogs, some birds) and animals native to japan (such as rabbits, foxes, some monkeys, etc). She can also make minor changes to her body, such as varying her hair color and length, her eye color, and other such small things on a whim. She does this often.

STRENGTHS:

Positivity~ Yako puts on the facade of a relentless good mood, fooling those around her into thinking she’s okay even when she’s not; sometimes borders on hysteria/mania

Sneaky~ When she puts her mind to it, Yako can go unnoticed relatively well (after years going unnoticed involuntarily)

Master of Disguise and Trickery~ Due to honing her powers and her own innate cleverness, Yako has learned to control her powers smoothly for quick disguises, as well as knowing how to look or act a certain way to fool others

Flexibility

WEAKNESSES:

Physical Weakness~ With her small stature, Yako is quick but not very strong

Prone to Mood Swings and Breakdowns~ Yako sometimes reacts to seemingly strange or random things (such as stars, being scolded, strongly disliking men in suits or fancy hats) and will sometimes go into a fury or burst into tears; very rarely she even has psychotic episodes

Insomnia~ Most nights, Yako can be found awake, getting into trouble or merely stargazing; she is often taking nap breaks throughout the day when she finds the time

Trusting~ Not just the regular kind, but Yako will trust anyone who is kind to her completely until they give her reason not to. Much like other aspects of her personality, her trust in and liking of a person can vary widely even throughout the course of the day.