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[petculiars]

Betta Fish Lifespan

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Betta Fish Lifespan

If you are passionate about aquariums and Betta fish are among the species you keep, you may have wondered at some point: How long does a Betta fish live as a pet?

Well, Betta fish kept as pets live 2-5 years when properly cared for. Sometimes they can live even longer. With luck and smart decisions, they can reach 5 years and maybe longer. In this article, I will go over some ways to help your Betta fish live longer, healthier, and happier lives.

There are many reasons why Betta fish die too early. Some of these reasons are beyond our control and it is important to realize that even if we do all things right, Betta fish can still die faster than we want them to. However, our actions play a direct role in the longevity and quality of the life of a fish.

Ways to increase the life span of Betta Fish

Here are some things you can do to help your Betta fish live longer:

Choose the right aquarium

One of the persistent myths about Betta fish is that they prefer small aquariums. There is no reason for this to be true. Because of their unique physiology, Betta fish can survive in small, polluted bodies of water more than most fish. However, this does not mean that it is the ideal environment for them. Like any other fish, Betta needs space to swim and explore.

The ideal is an aquarium of 18-20 l or even larger for a single fish, 35l being even better. Bowls and small aquariums require more frequent water changes and they also lack some features that I will talk about later in this article. If you want your fish to live as long as possible, give it the right home.

Proper water temperature

You might also like my articles about:

Crowntail Betta Fish

Are bubbles in a fish tank a problem

Oscar fish lifespan

Did you know that Betta is a tropical fish? This means that when we hold them in unheated bowls and aquariums, the water is often too cold for them. You should maintain a water temperature between 24-27°C, 25.5°C being the ideal temperature.

It may seem unimportant because Betta can survive at lower temperatures, but every time we keep fish out of their comfort zone, we cause them constant stress. Stress leads to illness, and illness can lead to death.

Use a filter

A filter is very helpful to keep the water clean in an aquarium. Although we wouldn’t call it a “must-have” in an aquarium with a Betta fish, if your Betta lives alone, you have living plants, and you regularly change the water, it’s a feature that can only help you.

Provide the fish with adequate food

Choose quality pellets as the main source of food for the fish and feed it according to the instructions. Betta Pisces can and will eat ordinary flakes for tropical fish but it is best to provide them with food made especially for Betta fish. Bettas are carnivores and their food contains a higher percentage of protein.

Live and frozen food, defrosted in the aquarium water, can serve as an occasional treat. Consider foods such as leeches, tubifex worms, shrimp, Mysis shrimp, and mosquito larvae.

Avoid overfeeding the fish

Overeating is at the top of the list of reasons why fish die too early. The stomach of a Betta has the size of its eye. Unconsumed food is deposited on the bottom of the aquarium and decomposes, soiling the water. Anything that goes into the fish has to come out. Fish that are full up to the gills create more residue in their aquariums.

Overeating leads to many diseases in Betta fish, some caused by dirty water and others due to physiological problems of overeating. If this worries you, it’s okay to schedule a “fasting day” per week for your fish.

Thoroughly clean the aquarium regularly

One way to combat this is to establish and follow a thorough aquarium maintenance program. This should include:

Regular change of water

Cleaning the algae

Aspiration of gravel

Occasional deep cleaning

The frequency and exact methods you will use will depend on the size of the aquarium, whether you have live plants and how many fish you keep in the aquarium. With a single betta in a 20L aquarium with a filter, you will need to change about 30% of the water weekly, clean the gravel weekly, and thoroughly clean once a month.

The water quality

Even if you keep up with aquarium maintenance, how do you know if the water is safe for your fish? The only correct way is to test it with a freshwater test kit. It is simple to use, fast and accurate. These regular measurements can help you ensure the quality of your aquarium water.

The ideal parameters of water would be:

Nitrates: < 20

Nitrite: 0

Ammonia: 0

PH: 7.0

Choose safe objects for the aquarium decor

Because Betta fish have long, flowing fins, you must be careful when choosing the decor for their aquariums. Broken swimmers and damaged scales can become infected and cause premature death. Living plants are wonderful if you can maintain them. It is also good if you choose artificial plants but find some without sharp edges that could break the fins of the fish.

Handle the fish carefully

Ideally, you should never remove Betta fish from its aquarium. However, if you need to get it out of there for some reason, do it carefully. Do not catch him with a net, as its fins can get tangled and damaged. Instead, remove it with a safe aquarium container.

Use an aquarium cap

Being a jumping fish is important to make sure that the aquarium has a solid lid.

If you find your fish on the floor, put it back into the aquarium as soon as possible. Bettas are Anabantidae which means they can breathe air over water when necessary so they have a higher chance of survival than most fish.

Choose compatible fish

In most cases, Betta fish are best kept with their kind. However, many people want to grow them along with other fish. This is actually possible, sometimes. The Siamese “fighter fish”, as the Betta fish is also called, will not necessarily attack all other fish in an aquarium. In fact, Betta fish have a much higher chance of being disturbed instead of being the aggressor.

Buy the Betta from reliable sources

If you buy a healthy Betta fish from the beginning, it has a much higher chance of living a long life. Avoid shops that keep dozens of Bettas stacked in small containers. This not only gives you a greater chance of getting a healthy fish, but it’s a more ethical way to buy a betta.

How long does a Betta Fish live in the wild?

In the wild, Betta can live for several years. Like most animals, wild betta fish have shorter lives than their captive counterparts. With predators and other environmental problems to solve, wild betta fish have a rather hard life.

How long can a Betta Fish live in a bowl?

Although you don’t give it the best chance for a long life by holding the fish in a bowl, it can still live for a few years before illness and stress can reach in.

How long does a Betta Fish live in a 3-4L container?

A 3-4L container is better than a bowl, but it is still not ideal. In both cases, you don’t know how long a Betta will survive. Like humans, some can live in poor environments until old age.

How long can a Betta Fish live without food?

Most fish can survive a week or more without food, but it is not recommended. Do not allow a betta to be fed at less than 48 hours.

Are Betta Pisces sleeping?

Yes, Betta fish sleep. You might see it resting on gravel or a plant leaf and thinking about what is worse, but it can be sleeping.

Final words!

There are some factors that are beyond your control regarding a Betta fish’s lifespan. Some fish have congenital conditions, but the care you give them plays a major role in the lifespan of a betta and can make a big difference.

The point is that you can follow exactly the advice in this article and yet your fish may die early. Some may totally ignore my advice and yet their fish might live to be 5 years old.

[reefrepublica23]

Clownfish for Sale: The Ultimate Guide to Finding Your Perfect Underwater Companion

If you're a passionate aquarium enthusiast or a budding marine hobbyist, you've likely marveled at the vibrant beauty of clownfish. These charming creatures, made famous by movies like Finding Nemo, have captured the hearts of aquatic lovers worldwide. Clownfish not only add a burst of color to your aquatic haven but also exhibit fascinating behaviors. In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore everything you need to know about clownfish for sale – from selecting the right species to providing them with the ideal habitat. Dive in with us as we embark on an underwater journey to discover the world of clownfish.

The Allure of Clownfish

Clownfish are classified as members of the Pomacentridae family, or Amphiprioninae, in scientific terms. They are renowned for their striking coloration, with vibrant shades of orange, yellow, and white that can rival the most exquisite marine art. These small, yet charismatic fish, come in various species, each with its unique characteristics and patterns.

Types of Clownfish

Ocellaris Clownfish

Ocellaris clownfish, commonly referred to as the False Percula Clownfish, are the stars of the hit movie "Finding Nemo." Recognized by their bold orange bodies adorned with three distinctive white bands, these playful creatures are a top choice for aquarium enthusiasts.

 Percula Clownfish

Percula clownfish are close cousins of Ocellaris clownfish, sharing their iconic appearance. The primary difference lies in their geographic distribution. Percula clownfish are native to the waters of the Western Pacific Ocean, while Ocellaris clownfish are found in the Eastern Pacific.

Maroon Clownfish

The maroon clownfish, characterized by its deep red coloration, stands out from the typical orange-and-white pattern seen in other species. Their unique hue and endearing personalities make them a sought-after addition to marine tanks.

 Tomato Clownfish

Tomato clownfish, as the name suggests, is a brilliant red-orange hue, resembling a ripe tomato. These active and hardy fish are a great choice for both beginners and experienced aquarists.

Clark's Clownfish

Named after the famous ichthyologist John Edward Clark, these clownfish are known for their bold yellow coloration and distinctive white stripes. They are found in the Western Pacific Ocean and are highly adaptable to captive environments.

Selecting the Right Clownfish

When searching for clownfish for sale, it's crucial to consider several factors to ensure the health and compatibility of your aquatic companions.

 Tank Size

The size of your aquarium plays a vital role in determining how many clownfish you can accommodate. Generally, a tank of at least 20 gallons is suitable for a pair of clownfish.

Tank Mates

Clownfish can be territorial, so selecting compatible tank mates is essential. Popular choices include anemones and other peaceful fish like damselfish and gobies.

Water Parameters

Maintaining stable water parameters, including temperature, pH, and salinity, is critical for the well-being of clownfish. Water needs to be tested and adjusted on a regular basis..

Species Compatibility

Different clownfish species may exhibit varying levels of aggression. Research the specific behaviors and requirements of the species you plan to keep.

Source

Purchase clownfish from reputable suppliers or local fish stores to ensure they are healthy and properly cared for before reaching your aquarium.

Caring for Clownfish

Feeding

Clownfish are omnivores and readily accept a diet of high-quality flake or pellet food, supplemented with occasional treats like frozen brine shrimp and mysis shrimp.

Anemone Relationship

In the wild, clownfish form symbiotic relationships with sea anemones, providing them with protection from predators. While it's not necessary to keep anemones in your tank, it can enhance their natural behavior.

Breeding

Clownfish are known to breed in captivity, making them a fascinating addition to your marine family. Providing suitable nesting sites and maintaining stable water conditions can encourage breeding behavior.

Conclusion

In conclusion, clownfish for sale offer a captivating opportunity to bring the wonders of the ocean into your home aquarium. With their stunning colors and intriguing behaviors, clownfish can be the stars of your underwater world. Remember to choose the right species, provide them with a suitable environment, and care for them diligently. By following these guidelines, you can create a thriving marine ecosystem that showcases the beauty and charm of these remarkable fish. So, dive into the world of clownfish and embark on an aquatic adventure like no other!

[brostateexam]

Today, Miri realized that the fish are occasionally given something that smells delicious (note: it's finely chopped frozen mysis shrimp melted with their tank water). She doesn't know what it is, and when she tried to stick her nose in it to give it a good sniff, it was far too wet to be food, and yet it smells like food. And she watched, completely rapt, as I carefully scooped up syringe after syringe of it with my turkey baster and fed the fish, corals with visible mouths, and anemones some shrimpy treats. Then she complained at me and ran over to the treat cabinet, so I think she's put together that the aquarium was getting some kind of snack, so why none for cat????? Anyway, several salmon treats later and we're no closer to solving how that water could smell so good.

[thenativetank]

Fish that Band Together: Banded Killifish in the Home Aquarium

A close relative of the more widely known (and distributed) Mummichogs, the Banded Killifish is an interesting choice for keeping in the home aquarium - and a better choice than its’ relative for freshwater keeping. Below is some information you should consider before selecting one or more of these guys for your home tank.

Species

Fundulidae (Topminnows) is one of the 10 families in the order Cyprinodontiformes (Toothcarps) along with Poeciliidae (Livebearers), Cyprinodontidae (Pupfishes), Rivulidae (Rivulines, New World Killifish), and Aplocheilidae (Killifish). Fundulus is a relatively large genus of 39 fish, all with different care requirements. Therefore the focus of this discussion will be:

Fundulus diaphanus (Banded Killifish) [pictured]

As far as I know, these fish are not sold at all in the trade - save for maybe through specialist dealers. Likely if you want one, you’ll have to collect them yourself.

Conservation Status

The Banded Killifish has been evaluated as Least Concern by the IUCN.

Description

The Banded Killifish is an elongated fish that can attain a maximum size of about 5 inches, though you’d be lucky to find one much above 3.5 inches. Males have a more prominent banding pattern on their sides and when in breeding condition gain a blueish iridescence. Females have a more subdued banding pattern with thinner bars; sometimes these aren’t overtly present at all. As with other Killifish, they do appear to have regional “variants” depending on where they are caught. The ones pictured were captured in Virginia.

Common for Topminnows, Banded Killifish are more territorial than aggressive on average. They will push other fish out of their turf but don’t typically continue to chase tankmates once they have fled. They can be tough on fish that don’t learn to stay out, though, such as some of the daces that swim all over the tank. They are more likely to leave fish alone that live on the bottom of the tank like darters and madtoms.

The best tankmates are either a) bottom feeders, or b) boisterous fish that can take care of themselves. Mudminnows, Darters, Madtoms, Mosquitofish, other Killifish, Fathead Minnows, and maybe Sticklebacks are all fair choices. In a brackish setting, consider Rivulines, native Gobies, Hogchokers, and maybe the smaller Sleeper Gobies.

As the name implies, these fish mostly inhabit the top of the tank, searching for floating morsels to eat. Their pattern makes them adept hiders and in a planted tank you may see them often lurking among the plants.

Feeding

I’ve found Banded Killifish to be very easy to feed. Dried Foods (flakes and pellets), frozen foods (brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, bloodworms, “marine” mixes), and live foods are all relished. They take to prepared foods right away - they push to be at the front of the chow line no matter what you feed.

Water Quality

Banded Killifish are best kept around room temperature (66-70 F), though can handle periods of much warmer or slightly cooler. They do best in basic, hard water - between 7.0 and 8.0 pH and 10-20 dH. They are more likely to inhabit smaller tributaries and marshes than fast moving streams, so ensure your tank turnover isn’t tumultuous.

Brackish Suitability

Banded Killifish thrive in brackish conditions. Laboratory tests showed they adapt well up to 1.010 and anecdotal evidence suggests they can live in full strength sea-water (1.025). That said, they strongly prefer freshwater - every specimen I’ve caught has been in totally freshwater conditions.

Tank Size

29 gallons is the starting point I’d use for a singleton with tankmates - if looking to add other killifish of the same species (or related) then I’d start at 55 gallons to allow all the space to coexist peacefully.

Breeding

Banded Killifish spawn during the summer, which can be replicated by increasing the temperature in the tank to 72-75 F. Eggs are deposited on algae or other filamentous media (like spawning mops used for other killifish) and hatch in 10-12 days. There is no parental care following hatching and fry may be consumed by the parents at this time.

Banded Killifish can interbreed with Mummichogs (and maybe other Fundulus Killifish). Keep this in mind if you keep them together.

Final Thoughts

Boisterous for sure, Banded Killifish are also easy to care for, very hardy, and not overly aggressive. In breeding colors, they are also quite attractive. I recommend them highly for home keeping.

Sources

Assessment and Status Report on the Banded Killifish, COSEWIC

Evolutionary variation in salinity tolerance among species of killifishes (Fundulus spp.), Jonah, Lauren Shea

(Image Source)

[anabantoid]

The Ubiquitous Betta Care Guide

Literally everyone and their mother has written a care guide about bettas, but I felt like I could provide a care guide based around my opinions and experiences in keeping bettas. I’ve kept bettas since I was about 15 years old, they were one of my first fish, and I fell in love with them and at one point I had over a dozen bettas at one time! That’s ridiculous now, but this was 2005/2006, bettas were cheaper and not as disposable then, definitely lasting for the oft-quoted “2-3 year” lifespans that people struggle to see today. Nowadays, I struggle to be able to get a betta to live past 6 months. So, what’s happening? Am I suddenly taking worse care of bettas than I did when I was 15? 

Well, no, all of my most recent bettas were kept in tanks that were over 50 gallons, well planted, my tap water is soft (kH of 5), my pH is neutral (7-7.4) and my water is easily modified with botanicals or wood to be about 6 if need be. They live in filtered tanks with 80 degree water, eat nothing but live or frozen food, and never fall ill with disease or parasites. That’s more than I can say about teenage me. I dealt with a lot of issues, obviously, from bacterial to fungal infections because of my ignorance, but nowadays I can’t say I’ve had to treat a betta for anything, they just sorta..die, and at seemingly random too. What’s going on? 

Today, bettas come in every color, shape and variety you can think of, which wasn’t the case when I was 15. The reason for the huge variety is the desire for more ornamental fish, but for commercial selling, there’s mass breeding on an industrial scale which leads to poor stock, inbreeding, and deformed fish and genetic issues we just can’t see. It doesn’t matter if it’s a local breeder or from a store, they’re all coming from the same stock now. 

I’ve touched about betta problems in the past, and if you’ve followed my blog for a few years or see me in my discord server (Fish Tea), then you already know how I feel. That’s not what this post is about! This post is about caring for your betta, what I’ve learned in my experiences with them, and how to treat and care for the common ailments that befall them.

THEIR CARE:

Min tank size: 10 gallons. Why 10 gallons? In all my time keeping bettas, they do best in larger tanks that allow them to move, they get proper muscle tone in larger tanks because they’re able to move, and I’ve never had an issue with constipation in bettas when placed in larger tanks because movement makes it easier for animals to pass their waste. I can’t think of any other 2 inch-3 inch, active fish that anyone would suggest for a 5 gallon, but for some reason people all say 5 gallons is fine. This is MY recommendation, this is something I will tell people to follow, but whether or not you agree is up to you. You can keep them as you wish, but I prefer having bettas in larger tanks.

Temperature: 80+. In the wild, the Betta genus comes from hot, humid environments in Southeast Asia, living in shallow bodies of water that can be over 80 degrees in temperature. Wild Betta splendens have been observed living in rice paddies with an average temperature of 84 degrees (Jaroensutasinee & Jaroensutansinee, 2001). While it can be argued that domestic bettas are different from their wild counterparts, we have not bred them for cold resistance, and bettas display poor health in colder temps, lethargy, loss of appetite, bloating and constipation. 

Water Params: My position about water parameters has evolved over time, but I still think a betta does best in neutral to acidic waters, because a betta in a pH of 8+ will not have a great time. Essentially, most people’s tap water will be fine, you don’t need RO water to keep a domestic betta.

Feeding: I feed my bettas live food in the form of blackworms, fruit flies, random small bugs I find, a spider….anything that’s an invert and they can swallow, they can eat it. I also feed them frozen foods such as bloodworms, krill, mysis, cyclops and sometimes just cut up cocktail shrimp. You can feed them live and frozen, and you can also give them prepared foods, like New Life Spectrum, Bug Bites, or Bug Pro. They have excellent sources of protein that are not derived from soy like other brands such as Hikari, Omega One, Tetra, Aqueon and such. You can also make repashy grub pie and feed them that. 

Furnishings: Bettas naturally come from environments that are dense with vegetative growth (Jaroensutasinee & Jaroensutansinee, 2001), which means your bettas should also be in tanks that are filled to the brim with plants! I like live plants, but you can use soft silks too, anything that can provide them some cover that they can serpentine and swim through. My rule of thumb usually is if you can see straight through one end of the tank with no broken lines of sight, you don’t have enough plants. Lack of proper coverage can make them stressed out, lethargic and more susceptible to illness and refusal to eat.

Tank mates: If you want to keep bettas with other fish, I suggest a 20 long as a minimum. If your betta has long fins, avoid getting any boisterous, nipping fish like tetras. Kuhli loaches make wonderful tankmates for bettas because they tolerate the high temps a betta likes, as well as Hypancistrus plecos, some corydoras, smaller spiny eels and more. I don’t recommend ever putting shrimp in with bettas, aside from larger shrimp like amanos, because shrimp are a betta’s natural prey and they will hunt them all down!

WHAT IF MY BETTA GETS SICK?

Bettas can and will get ill, you will most likely encounter an issue with your betta one way or another, but what can you do to help? In most cases, the problem is lack of proper care and poor water conditions. The best way to insure your betta remains happy and healthy is to have a clean tank. The easiest way to do this is to make sure your tank is cycled and you do regular, weekly water changes of 25%-30%. 

When you buy a betta, make sure you are picking out an active one, don’t try to be a saint and pick out one laying on its side, half dead. The likelihood is that it will just die, you’ll feel upset, and then you’ll go out and try it again. I’ve been there! It doesn’t work! Get a fish that wiggles at you and looks like it wants to kick your ass. That’s a good betta.

Here’s some common betta ailments:

Popeye: This happens because your water quality is poor and a bacterial infection brews up, causing fluid retention that can pop the eye out. Your best course of action is to address the water quality issue, then use an antibiotic such as kanaplex or metroplex. 

Bloat and constipation: The betta is fed too much, the tank is unheated, the water quality is poor, the tank is too small, and more. This is a symptom of an underlying issues, and it needs to be addressed by seeing what you’re doing wrong. To treat it, give your betta a soak in an epsom salt bath for 10-15 minutes in a bucket or other container, with 1 tbs of epsom salt per gallon. Feed them some frozen food like daphnia or brine shrimp to aid in passing their waste. 

Ich: This can literally happen to anyone, and it sometimes just. Happens. Inexplicably. Whether or not it’s introduced or always in the water, it can crop up in even the warmest of tanks, as ich nowadays seems to have gotten particularly strong. Up your temps to about 86, your betta can handle temps into the 90’s, and use an ich treatment, I usually do Ich X, follow the directions on the bottle. You can also do a salt dip on the betta at the first signs of ich, 1 tbs of aquarium or table salt per gallon in a separate container, do a 10 minute soak. Up the temps and see if the ich subsides, if not, follow through with medication.

Fin rot: This is a water quality issue, you need to address this first before proceeding with treatment, as usually providing clean, warm water is enough to stop fin rot. If you do this but notice the fin rot is especially aggressive or starting to proceed onto the body, treat with an antibiotic such as kanaplex.

Velvet: This is a parasitic infection like ich, though for this one it comes from yet another water quality issue. It can happen in the store they come from, or it can happen in your home if you’re not up and up on your care. You would treat it the same way as ich, however shut your lights off, as it appears to be light sensitive.

Lethargy, bottom sitting, loss of appetite: These are symptoms of a bigger issue, be it water quality, age, or simply just something going wrong internally that we can’t see. If your tank is too cold, you’re not feeding enough or you’re not on top of water changes, you can help by adjusting all of that. If it’s from age or something else, all you can do is wait and see how much longer the betta has left, or euthanize if you feel he won’t get better. You can attempt an epsom salt bath, raising temps, and feeding live or frozen, but at that point it’s palliative care rather than a solution.

What if you just got your betta, and it seemed fine, and then one day it didn’t look good and the next you found it dead? Well, circling back to my long winded intro, you can see that the answer is in the poor breeding practices. Bettas are not as strong or hardy as they used to be, in fact they seem to just be about as durable as tissue paper nowadays and will die after a few months or a year, with some exceptions. It can be disheartening to feel like you’re failing at a fish that’s touted as being one of the hardiest fish out there, but I promise you that if you’re providing the best care for them, they’ll still die early, and you’re not at fault. I still get bettas, but I only buy one after another passes, and I try to not spend more than $15 on one. I settle with the fact they won’t live as long, and I enjoy them while I have them, and if you feel the same way, go for it.

If you’d like to learn more about bettas, their alternatives and more, the best way to reach me and a whole community of experiences keepers is through Fish Tea, an lgbt+ friendly discord server dedicated to all things aquatic.

(reference: Jaroensutasinee, M., & Jaroensutansinee, K. (2001). Bubble nest habitat characteristics of wild Siamese fighting fish. Journal of Fish Biology, 58(5), 1311-1319. doi:10.1111/j.1095-8649.2001.tb02288.x)

[fishcommunity]

Mod @thebrackishtank

So I saw a neat post under the fishblr tag to talk about your tanks (link here... no worries, I’ll reblog it for ease!) that I thought looked like lots of fun. But I love talking about myself - you can tell this because I’m on the internet - so I figured why not! A little bit about me and the tank below the cut.

Hi everybody! This is @thebrackishtank / @thenativetank / @brambleforest. My name though is Joel, I’m in my early 30′s now (yikes! I was 22 when I joined Tumblr) and have been the moderator at @fishcommunity for about 4 years now.

- Current date: April 21, 2020

- Aquarium Age: About 11 months, it was the first thing I set up when I bought this house!

- Aquarium size:125 gallons.

- Aquarium inhabitants:

--- 3 Scats (Selena and Itty Bitty are Silver Scats, Verde is the Green Scat)

--- 1 Green Spotted Puffer (Scooty Puff is a darling! Never once bit a tankmate)

--- 1 Knight Goby (Goby-Wan... he’s a Jedi Knight... er... Goby)

--- 1 Freshwater Demoiselle (Greg)

--- 8 Orange Chromides

--- 2 Zebra Nerite Snails

- Substrate (sand, gravel, Eco Complete, etc.): Approximately 90% pool filter sand, 10% aragonite.

- Hardscape (nonliving decorations): Lava Rock, Oyster Shells, and one piece of driftwood I couldn’t part with :-P

- Plants: None! Brackish plants are not hard to come by, but ones that survive 1.006 specific gravity AND are unpalatable to Scats is a hard combo to find. So everything in here is plastic and still looks fine to me!

- Light: Just some cheapo LEDs. I just needed white light, no need for fancy wavelength/intensity levels.

- Filter: A Fluval 406 Canister Filter on one end, and a cheapo internal, air powered box filter on the other end. Why include that? Water movement is the key to combating Blue-Green Algae - it thrives in stagnant water. One year in, and no BGA to speak of :)

- CO2? (yes or no): Naw, no need. Maybe if I did some seagrasses, but I’d need so much more substrate if I was going to do that.

- Fertilizers: The fish make plenty :-P

- Food: I have a variety of dried and frozen foods I add in... brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, Emerald Entree, Tilapia chunks, Hikari sinking wafers, freeze dried krill, nori strips, and a few types of Bug Bites foods for the cichlids.

- Water Changes: Typically weekly, usually on the order of 40-50 gallons.

[adamsaquarium]

The Basics to Keeping Clownfish - A Beginner’s Guide - Care for Your Very Own Nemo!

COST

Well, first of all, are they absurdly expensive? The answer to this question is NO, which is especially good if you’re on a budget, as there’s no need to worry. Marine fish can easily cost over £100, sometimes costing over £1000, but clownfish can easily be found for £15 or under each. The rarer variants will cost more, but you are still able to get some incredible fish for such a little price!

TEMPERATURE AND P.H

The temperature these fish should be kept at is between 24-27 degrees Celsius, with the PH being between 7.8 and 8.4. Many other fish like this PH, so this allows for ease in pairing clownfish with other tankmates.

TANKS

If you have a small tank, the clownfish will still do well in it, especially if paired with an anemone or coral, as they may not stray far from this, therefore not needing as much swimming space as other fish. Despite this, don’t forget to get as big a tank as possible – something you can afford comfortably, and something that won’t look out of place in the room your tank will be in. And of course, don’t forget to equip your tank with a solid filtration system, have a reliable heater, and some good lights, so you can admire your beautiful fish and make sure algae growth doesn’t get out of control, but don’t keep your lights on at all times. Establish a good day-night lighting cycle for your aquarium, which is now easy, as many lights are now equipped with an automatic lighting timer to program your lights.

For clownfish particularly, a minimum tank size of 20 gallons is recommended, with an extra 10 gallons recommended for every extra clownfish. But remember, smaller tanks are harder to maintain. For example, if there was to be a problem such as an ammonia spike, this will travel across a smaller tank quicker, so you have less time to identify the problem and resolve it, making sure your fish don’t get stressed out and die. And don’t forget, if you plan on keeping a compatible anemone with your clownfish, they must have a tank with a minimum of 50 gallons in it, and specific lighting, so before you get an anemone don’t forget to do your research.

FOOD

Clownfish will happily be fed with any quality flake or pellet food which is made for carnivores or omnivores. Adults should be fed 2 times a day, juveniles 3-4 times, being fed what they can eat in 2-3 minutes. However, make sure there isn’t lots of food floating around as this will lead to a bad water quality and possible uncontrolled algae growth. Some other good food choices for clownfish included Mysis and Brine Shrimp, and as long as its finely chopped, table shrimp as well as frozen fish.

TANKMATES

Clownfish aren’t overly aggressive, so there isn’t much limit to what can be kept with these beautiful animals. These are great fish for reef tanks with lots of corals, community tanks, tanks with rock in it or even fish-only tanks. A good combination would be wrasses or damselfish, even incredible Tangs, however as these are bigger fish, they must be monitored to make sure the clownfish are getting stressed out. Also, it isn’t recommended to keep different species of clownfish together, as they may turn aggressive towards one another, especially in smaller aquariums. And just a little tip, don’t stick your clowns in a tank with sharks… because that would never end well, unless your boasting an ocean in the middle of your house.

Well guys that wraps up this blog post! Don’t forget to share this with all your friends and let me know what you want to know about next. Go take a look at my other posts if you’re interested in all things fish related, and that wraps up this post on the basics of keeping clownfish! 

[sweetlipsaquatics-blog]

Calloplesiops altivelis

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/hcs3/index.php

https://animaldiversity.org/accounts/Calloplesiops_altivelis/

Scientific Name : Calloplesiops altivelis

Common Names : Comet & Marine Betta

Care Level : Easy - considered quite hardy once it starts eating

Size : 8 inches (20 cm)

Life span : 10 years or longer

Water Parameters : pH : 8.1 - 8.4 | Temperature : 72°F - 80°F (22°C - 27°C) | Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.025 | Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°

Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific: Red Sea and East Africa to Tonga at depths of 3 to 45 meters found near reefs and caves near drop-offs

Temperament / Behavior : They will eat smaller fish and shrimp

Breeding : These are egg-guarders/nesters. The male will guard the eggs with the eggs hatching in 5 to 6 days

Aquarium Size : 55 gallon (210 liters) minimum

Diet / Foods : Needs to be fed meaty type marine origin foods such as clams on the half shell, pieces of fresh fish, mysis shrimp, larger pellets (as it grows in size). They may eat smaller fish in the tank too.

Reef Tank Compatible? : No - will eat smaller fish and ornamental shrimp.

In the wild these fish spend their days tucked away in caves and overhangs to hide from direct sunlight, but as the sun sets their days begin. The start to venture out from hiding and begin feeding, a very slow feeding. While their prey of choice is prone to making a great escape, feasting on small crustaceans and small fish, they take their time to hover over and aggressively stare down their meal. They use their pectoral fins to quickly stab at their prey and it will rarely miss. This hunting behavior will carry over into the home aquarium as juveniles, but as they adjust to a regular feeding schedule these instincts will fade.

In the home aquarium be sure to provide areas with overhangs or caves for these shy fish to escape the bright lighting and prying eyes. If they feel threatened the fish will dive head first into cover at the first sight of danger. Rather than bury itself and completely hide, the fish will leave his back end view-able. To the potential threat this looks similar to a Gymnothorax meleagris, the white-mouth moray eel. Although generally considered to be a hardy and easy to care for fish, they can be difficult to acclimate to a captive life. They will often hide for upwards of a week after being introduced to the aquarium. During this time of hiding, keep the lights dimmed if possible to encourage the new addition to explore the tank. The next major hurdle in acclimation is getting them to eat. They eat best during dawn and dusk, and will accept frozen meaty foods as well as live. Once started on live foods it may be difficult to switch to frozen foods and is therefore not recommended to start with unless nothing else is accepted. Tank mates are the last hurdle in acclimation. Smaller fish and crustaceans may become dinner and larger highly active fish may over stress the marine betta. Tank mates should be similar sized, lower activity fish, as well as anything you don’t mind becoming a midnight snack.

All in all these unique fish have a lot to offer to your home aquarium but some caution and planning is required before acquisition.

Sources:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/hcs3/index.php

https://animaldiversity.org/accounts/Calloplesiops_altivelis/

[juniperpublishersoceanography]

Chemical Composition of Indomysis nybini from Three Stations in Basrah City, Iraq- Juniper Publishers

Abstract

The current study was aimed to establish the nutritional status of Indomysis nybini from three stations in Basrah city, Iraq. The specimens of I. nybini were collected during the first months from 2016. The study concentrated on the nutritional status of I. nybini dry matter basis.The average values of the moisture, proteins, carbohydrates, lipids and ash were recorded for specimens I. nybini three stations.

The results of proximate composition shows that the percentage of protein in specimens of the station (1) was higher (45.04%) than that of station (2) and (3) were reported (41.32, 39.78 %), respectively. Likewise the carbohydrate content in specimens of St. (1) was higher (9.34%) than the (St. 2) and (St. 3) (7.56,6.67%), respectively. The highest amount of lipid was found specimens of (St. 3), the value being9.8% where as in the higher level of moisture content was noticed in 87.81% in specimens of (St. 1). While the lower percentage of ash in specimens of St. (1) (23.09%) followed by (St. 2) 24.59% and then the (St. 3) where the higher recorded (25.55%) of ash was noticed.

Biochemical analysis of adult males, ovigerious females and non-ovigerious females found high rates of protein in adult males and carbohydrate ratios were highest in non-ovigerous females, whereas fat was highest in ovigerous females.

The objective of this study for determines the proximate Chemical Composition of Indomysis nybiniis a good source of proteins and metabolically energy and average mineral supply.

Keywords: Indomysis nybini ; Proximate composition Basrah city; Iraq

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Introduction

Mysid shrimps (Crustacea: Mysidae) are major organisms, inhabiting a wide range of oceanic zones, from littoral to meso- and bathypelagic. They are an important partin coastal ecosystems [1,2]. They occur in high numbers, and their ecological importance, particularly their role in food chains, feeding on detritus, phytoplankton, and zooplankton [3]. In turn, they serve as prey food for other marine organisms such as fish and invertebrates [4], thus providing a tropic link between primary producers and secondary consumers.

Mysids are used both as live and frozen food for aquarium and for aquaculture. Mysid culture has been made using various culture system and diets [4,5]. They are used as food for juvenile shrimp [6]. My sides are also considered as excellent experimental estuarine organisms for toxicity testing [7,8]. The chemical composition of my sides has been investigated in recent years but centres on relatively few species. The genus Indomysis , Which includes many shallow- water, estuarine and so readily accessible species.

Biju & Panampunnayil [9] were collected the samples of my sides from salt pans in Bombay India and classified them and studied their distribution and environment. They identified a new species of Indomysis nybini for its differentiation of Indomysis annandalei through the presence of the dorsal string in the oblong matrix and its loss to the joint on the outer branch For the fourth swimming pool of male and the presence of a fork on the internal branch of the tail of the tail relative to the balance member was calculated population density of this species in these saline ponds, also observed the biochemical components of males and mature females, which showed high protein components, High carbohydrate components and female bearing brooding have a high fat ratio.

Johannsson et al. [10] were studied and investigated protein and nucleic acid concentrations and ratios in juvenile (8.5 to 12mm total body length, 7 to 20mg wet weight (wet wt)) and young adult (12 to 14mm, 20 to 30mg wet wt) Mysisrelicta as a function of growth rate, temperature, body mass and molt stage. These relationships can then be used to assess the condition or growth rates of M. relictain the field. Under ad libitum feeding conditions, size and temperature should be the dominant factors determining growth rate.

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Materials and Methods

Analysis of proximate composition

The samples of Indomysis nybini were subjected to analysis the biochemical composition such as, moisture, crude protein, carbohydrate, lipid (fat) and ash of the females, males, ovigerious females, non-ovigerious females taken from the three stations:

I. Al-Faw station (pond south Al-Faw city).

II. Al-Faw station (pond in medium Al-Faw city)

III. Shatt Al-Basrah station (near Mohamed al-chasm bridge) during the first month of the 2016 on the basis of the dry weight. All analysis was carried out in triplicates.

Humidity: The percentage humidity is estimated using the drying oven at 105 °C until the weight is stable according to the method mentioned (A.O.A.C, 2002).

Protein: Nitrogen was estimated by semi-micro kjeldahl method as described in Pearson (1970) and by protein by multiplying the value of N x 6.25.

Fat: Fat according to the method mentioned in A.O.A.C, (2002) using Soxhelt Soxelt.

Ash: Ash was calculated by burning samples in the Muffle furnace at a temperature of 550 °C according to the method listed in A.O.A.C, (2002).

Carbohydrates: Carbohydrates were calculated using the following formula:

Carbohydrates (%) = 100% - Moisture + Protein + Fat% + Ash%

Statistical analysis

The statistical interpretation of the tabulated data was performed by using SPSS (21.0 version) for the mean standard deviation at 5% level of significanc

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Results

The proximate chemical composition for specimens I. nybini, as in dry matter basis in three stations was represented in (Table 1), the current study were showed a higher in the proportion of protein in specimens of I. nybini in the first station compared to the second and third stations, with values recorded as 45.04, 41.32 and 39.78%, respectively. The carbohydrate content was 9.34%in the I. nybini the (St. 1) which higher compared to the specimens content in (St. 2,3) that were values recorded as 8.56, 6.67%, respectively.

The moisture content in (Table 1), indicate a higher the moisture content in the first station was 87.81% compared to the second and third stations which were 80.05 and 77.83%, respectively. While the fat (lipids) content was 20.67% in the specimens of I. nybini exhibited in (St.1), which lower compared to specimens in (St. 2,3) were recorded as 21.13% and 21.50%, respectively. The ash content was 24.09 in specimens in St. (1) which less compared to specimens in (St. 2,3) were recorded as (24.59, 25.55), respectively.

Results of chemical analysis based on dry weight in individual from three stations

In (Tables 2-4) Comparison in biochemical content between males, non-ovigerious females and ovigerious females of I. nybini shows that high level of protein, were reported in the males and non-ovigerious females in three stations of current study. High level of lipid and moisture content were reported in the males and ovigerious females. Likewise higher level of carbohydrate and ash content was noticed in males and higher moisture was in the non-ovigerious females.

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Discussion

The results of proximate analysis (Table 1) of Mysids are closely similar to analogous data on euphausiids. Dry body weight approximates closely to 20% of the body wet weight with the exception of an adult female. This is a broad generalization drawn from moderately variable data. Ash, chitin and the low values for carbohydrate are as expected (Table 1) from analyses of comparable organisms. The ash content represents about 1.5-2.5% of the wet weight and consequently about 7.5-12.5% of the dry weight. Determined 8.3% of the body dry weight of a Neomysis japonica, Tracy and Vallentyne (1969) state that the freshwater Mysis relicta contains 21% ash 14.6% lipids on a dry weight basis.

Small sexual differences in body composition were demonstrated in Taphromysis bowmani; males have significantly more protein and ash and significantly less chitin than females but there are no differences between the carbohydrate and lipid contents [10]. The results of the chemical analysis of specimens of this specie showed differences in the percentages of the biochemical components among males, non-ovigerious females and ovigerious females. For males and females in general, there was a relationship between the percentage of chemical components and gender, whether male or female, and the nature of environmental conditions,

A. Wide range of salinity as well as the quality of food on which it feeds. There is also a relationship between the percentages of the chemical components of the ovigerious and non-ovigerious females with the requirements of reproduction through the formation of incubation and reproduction and the production of eggs.

B. High fat and protein.

As the proportion of protein was the highest in males because it is an important component of the body, which is present for all stages of life and was the lowest in the ovigerious females, while the proportion of fat was the highest in the ovigerious females, while the proportion of carbohydrates was the highest in adult males and females and was the lowest in the ovigerious females as shown in Table 4. This is confirmed by Biju et al. [9] in his analysis of species Rhopalophthal musindicus and Biju et al. [11] of the species Mesopodopsis oriental is and Sultana et al. [12] of species Indomysis annandalei [13-15].

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[hella-free-space]

Betta Care Guide: All About Bettas!

The “Betta Basics” -2.5+ gallon tank -heater (76-82F) -thermometer -low-flow filter -1+ hide -decor -silk/live plants -quality food

A More Comprehensive Guide

***Tank Size*** 2.5 gallons: The absolute minimum, I do not recommend keeping a betta in anything less than this because even in a cycled 2.5, keeping a *stable* cycle is very difficult, and requires more frequent water changes. In a tank this small, you’ll most likely need to buy an adjustable heater as well, since the smallest (trustworthy) heaters on the market are 7-7.5 watts, and depending on where you live or how hot/cold you keep your house/room, the heat will fluctuate too often, or be too hot or too cold since the volume of water is quite small. A 2.5 gallon betta tank is doable. 5 gallons: A great median for those who want to give their bettas a wonderful environment, but may be cramped on space, move around often, or whose living arrangements have aquarium-related restrictions. A cycled 5 gallon tank with a betta generally requires a water change 1x a week. A 5 gallon is also easier to heat and keep a stable cycle with a 5 gallon than a 2.5 gallon. I still recommend an adjustable heater (I’ll always recommend an adjustable heater), though, as I’ve found that even with an appropriately-sized preset heater/non-adjustable heater, the temperature fluctuates too often and by too much. A 5 gallon is a perfectly good choice! 10 gallons: A palace! Your new betta would love to have a 10+ gallon tank! They’ll swim over every inch of it, I promise its not too big. A fantastic choice for those that have the space and can afford to set up a 10 gallon or larger with all the bells and whistles (décor, filter, heater, etc.). note: If you feel you can’t give your betta a 10+ gallon tank, and you can only afford a 2.5 or 5 gallon setup (or something in between), that DOES NOT mean I (or anyone else) think you’re a bad fish parent ❤ as long as you can provide the basic necessities your fish requires and keep on top of water quality, then do what you can when you can! Maybe it’ll be a few months before you can buy your fish that new hide or a few extra plants, or maybe you’ll have to wait ‘til xmas or your bday to be able to afford a larger tank if that’s what you want, and that’s okay. As long as you do the best within your means (provided your animal’s basic needs are met), that’s all your fish would ask of you ❤ ***Temperature*** Bettas are tropical fish! That means they require temperatures of 76-82F. Why do they need this temperature range, though? Well, fish are ectothermic (“cold-blooded”) meaning that they depend on their surrounding environment (the water) to regulate their body temperatures! Your human body also requires a certain body temperature to optimize all those bodily functions it performs. Think about frostbite (affects circulation) or hypothermia (affects body temperature and bodily function). Your fish can suffer similar effects when its water is kept too cold. A cold betta will be more prone to fin rot/melt (the tips of the fins become necrotic) because their circulation is affected. A colder fish will also have a slower digestive process and slower metabolism, meaning that it will become lethargic because it’s organs can’t work fast enough to produce energy it needs to be healthy and active. You wanna see a bright colorful active betta? Give them a heated tank! 😃 ***Thermometer*** Even if you have an adjustable heater, you should invest in a thermometer (1.50$, glass, Walmart)! I personally use an adjustable thermometer, which has an internal thermostat which tells it when to shut off/on, but when I set the heater to 79, my tanks stay around 82F, but I wouldn’t know that unless I had a thermometer to let me know what the actual tank temperature is! I definitely recommend spending the extra buck for one :) Also, those sticker ones that go on the outside of the tank are not reliable, seeing as they go on the outside of the tank, and show a range of temperatures more or less. They cost about the same as a glass one (which is much more accurate), so I recommend either glass or digital, but not the stickers. Filtration: Bettas aren’t fond of tons of flow, which can present some challenges to your friendly neighborhood aquarist. Luckily, there are plenty of options when it comes to betta-safe filtration. HOBs: Hang-On-Back style filters. Some have an intake pipe, which should be covered with a sponge to keep your bettas fins (or the betta itself) from being sucked up and shredded/injured. You can search for “pre-filter sponge” or “intake filter sponge” on amazon, google, or find a fluval prefilter sponge at your local petsmart/Petco. You can also DIY one out of cut-to-size filter foam/sponge. HOB filters can also have a strong out-flow. Some have spray bars, some have spickets, and some just have a wide-mouth waterfall-style opening. If you find that the flow is pushing your betta around, or your betta is struggling to swim against the current, you can baffle it! Some common techniques for baffling filters are the “water-bottle baffle”, using a shower loofa/pouf, covering the out-flow opening with filter sponge/floss, or an intake sponge. I have the fluval spec v and I use an intake sponge on the out-spout since it’s a short spigot. Sponge Filters: These are block sponges which usually sit on the bottom of the aquarium and are hooked up to an airline tube and air pump. They push air through the sponge, creating a vacuum and pulling water through. The air bubbles that come out of the top of the sponge don’t create much horizontal flow that pushes bettas around, but instead the water flow is directed upwards. The bubbles provide oxygenation and surface agitation as well. ***Décor***

Hides: Bettas like to feel safe (as do all fish and other pets) and giving them at least one cave to retreat to will give your fish that sense of security. You can buy something from the fish store, a local pet store, or a pet chain store. Besides the pre-made ones (logs, rock caves, skulls, etc.), you can buy terra cotta pots for around a 1$ or so. Just make sure that the pots aren’t just painted brown, but that they’re a terra cotta material all the way through. Fish have also gotten stuck in the small drainage holes at the bottom of these pots, so be sure to plug it up with some aquarium-safe silicone or something. Also, be sure to make sure that your hides don’t have sharp edges your betta could tear his/her fins on, and that the hide doesn’t have holes that your betta may get stuck in. Usually you can sand down rough edges though :) Plants: Plastic plants are generally a no-no, as they can tear your bettas fins. Usually, if they pass the “panty-hose” test they are deemed “betta-safe” but it’s still better not to chance it when there are plenty of gorgeous silk plants out there! “silk” plants are made from material (not necessarily silk) instead of plastic. Silk plants may have plastic stems, but that’s ok so long as there aren’t any sharp seams; the silk leaves are what’s important here! Live plants are also an option. Anubias, anacharis, java fern, moss, and banana plants are all low-light plants which require no CO2 and no special substrate. However, this is not a plant guide so you’ll have to research how you can plant them or add them to your tank on your own. ***Food*** There are lots of food which is marked specially for bettas, but don’t fall for marketing gimmicks! Know what’s in your pet’s food before you buy. If the first few ingredients are “meal”s (fish meal, wheat meal, etc.) or the first few ingredients are plant-based, then this is not the food for your betta. What you want to look for is whole ingredients, or specifically-named ingredients (whole fish, halibut, salmon, krill, etc.). New Life Spectrum and Omega One are good brands to check out. Hikari is ok, but their ingredients are not as quality as they used to be, and if you read the ingredients on their current “Betta Bio-Gold” you’ll see what I mean. Foods with fillers/freeze-dried foods don’t have a lot of nutritional value, and while a freeze-dried food may make a tasty treat, it shouldn’t be your fish’s staple diet. You can also feed frozen/live blood worms, mysis shrimp, etc. Bettas are insectivores, and cannot digest plant matter, so they should not be given any type of algae wafer or vegetables (this includes peas; an alternative to feeding peas for bloat is to feed daphnia!!). ***Tankmates*** I’ll preface this section by stating that bettas don’t need tankmates! :) Tankmates are more for you than for your fish, and should be chosen carefully. Tankmates in General: -please remember to make sure that your tank is suitable for the tank mates you wish to house; you wouldn't keep your betta in a 1 gallon unfiltered/unheated tank, so don’t do the equivalent to your betta’s tankmates  your fish are all equal, so please, please, please make sure that you put in the same amount of research and care for the tankmates that you do for your betta! make sure your tank mates have the same requirements are your betta, and their temperament won’t put your betta at risk. -ALWAYS DO RESEARCH ON THE SPECIES YOURE CONSIDERING BEFORE PURCHASING!! :) -always have a backup plan in case your tankmates don’t get along with your betta, or your betta doesn’t get along with his tankmates  -a 20 gallon is the best minimum choice for a community-style betta tank, as it opens up more options and gives your betta and his/her tankmates plenty of space! -be prepared to separate/rehome/etc. "problem fish" or a "problem betta". if your betta isn’t really the community type, don’t try to force him/her to be; it won’t work out well for anyone. Get that betta an individual setup as soon as possible, or if your tank is large enough, divide it so that your betta has his/her own space. 

Good Tank Mates:  Corydoras: shoaling, 6+ to a group - keeping them in groups smaller than this will stress them to death...literally sometimes 10+ gallons (dwarf/pygmy), 20+ gallons (regular) tropical, lots of species to choose from sand/barebottom is a MUST - p they have soft bellies and sensitive barbels, and gravel can scratch up their bellies (which leads to stress or infection) or damage their barbels o.o also, they sift through sand to find little bits of food naturally, so sand lets them display this natural behavior and you get to see it too! Rasboras: schooling, 6+ to a school – keeping them in schools smaller than this will stress out the fish 10-15+ gallons – depending on the species tropical, lots of species to choose from note: “galaxy rasboras” are NOT rasboras (rasboras belong to the boraras genus). Galaxy rasboras are actually a species of danio (other common name: celestial pearl danio) and are not tropical. Snails: under 10 gallons: nerites, ramshorns, horned nerites, and other small snails 10+ gallons: mystery snails & other snails listed above – mystery snails get quite large and have a bioload as large, if not larger, than your betta’s, so a mystery snail is more suited to living in a 10 gallon tank than in something smaller shrimp: not all bettas are “shrimp-safe”, meaning that if you want to try shrimp, you should be prepared for the worst case scenario: your betta eats them! if youre okay with the possibility that you may lose some shrimp, then i suggest starting out with a few shrimp. Amano shrimp are larger, great for algae, should be kept in groups of at least 3-5 cherry shrimp (and other neocardinia sp.) are hardy, but small (most likely to be a tasty snack), colorful/many variations to choose from! ghost shrimp can actually be nippy, so I’d recommend against them, even though they’re pretty cheap~ putting shrimp in a 2.5 gallon tank is doable, but a 5 gallon tank would be much better otocinclus: do best in groups, 3+ - they’re not traditional shoaling or schooling fish, but are still social 20+ gallons - otos are sensitive to water quality if your tank doesn’t have a ton of algae for them to eat, then I suggest supplementing their diet with cucumbers/zucchini/algae wafers/etc. 　 plecos: tank size depends completely on the species your considering, there are a ton!! I suggest supplementing their diet with cucumbers/zucchini/algae wafers/etc.  ember tetras: schooling, 6+ to a school – keeping the in schools smaller than this will stress out the fish 10+ gallons – they do ok in a 10, but would prefer a 15 (long) or a 20 gallon! 😊 Bad Tank Mates: danios: NOT tropical (max temp is like 74F), they're schooling (6+ fish in a group), and are insanely active! this means they need at least a 20 gallon, and need to be with other cooler/temperate water fish like other danios and minnows :) Also, even if they could do ok in a heated 10 gallon, their active nature tends to stress bettas out :/ White Cloud Mountain Minnows (or any other minnows): NOT tropical (max temp is around 74F), they're schooling (6+ fish in a group), and are insanely active! They’re smaller, around 1”, but they need at least a 10 gallon, and should only be housed with other cooler/temperate water fish such as other danios and minnows :) Also, even if they could do ok in a heated 10 gallon, their active nature tends to stress bettas out :/ Neon Tetras: they're tropical, could do ok in a 10 (but would do better in a 20). Enough people have had fin-nipping/aggression issues that they’ve made this list. Not everyone who houses bettas with neon tetras will have these issues, but if there’s a possibility of putting your fish’s health and wellbeing at risk, why take the risk? There are plenty of other safer, more suitable tank mates out there 😊 all other tetras not mentioned: tetras tend to be nippy in general (black skirt tetras, for example) and there are safer options out there; dont risk it! <3

mollies: get too large to be housed safely with bettas can be aggressive/attack/bully your betta platies: some peoples bettas seem to do ok, some do not, as they can be nippy or aggressive towards your betta Guppies/endlers: their flowing tails and bright colors also tend to bring out aggression, and since they have such pretty tails, they may be nipped at by your betta, or vice versa /*Thanks for giving that book a read! If you feel as though I’ve provided inaccurate information, could make an improement, or have an addition to suggest, feel free to let me know! :3*/ HAPPY FISHKEEPING

[petshouse]

Aquarium Food Frozen Silversides

Frozen food are healthy and Promote growth . You can feed your fish 2-3 times a week. This Aquarium Food Frozen Silversides is good for your fish .Frozen fish food is good for digestion .It have essential nutrients like protein, fats and Carbohydrates that include sugars, starches, gums. It is easy to use. and have 100% natural ingredients. Have best source of energy for survival .It contains vitamins E Which promote growth. You can buy this product from our website .

[aquatictimes]

We’re in need of some help, here.

As you probably know, Blane has suffering with fin rot for the past four months, despite his water parameters remaining at 0, 0, 0 and 7.6-8 throughout. His diet consists of frozen bloodworm, black and white mosquito larvae, mysis, cichlid mixes and Dennerle pellets, often soaked in Garlic Guard. So far, he’s been treated with frequent water changes, IALs, aquarium salt, paraguard and meth blue dips, none of which have yielded any results. The rot is slow, but consistent. 

Two days ago, I noticed a lump forming between his eyes (pictured). There have been no behavioural changes, but he’s finding it very difficult to spot and eat his food. Doesn’t stop him trying, though.

(I feel it’s important to mention this, as I’ve not seen this behaviour in any of my other fish: he’s never seemed quite...right, cognitively. Since he arrived a year ago, his reflexes have been unusually slow, his energy levels bordering on lethargic and he frequently appears to be ‘over-sitmulated’; as though he simply shuts down. He also often completely misses his food - even when it’s literally sitting on his mouth - and so has to be carefully hand-fed. Yet, in-between these moments, there will be bursts of energy, interest in his surroundings and a desire to flare at anything that moves. Part of me wonders, if this is a tumour...could this have been the cause of his odd behaviour? Maybe even the fin rot?)

This is either a tumour or a cyst/ulcer caused by a bacterial infection. As I have no way of removing a tumour on this part of his body (I don’t think?), I’m going to treat this as a bacterial infection. 

In this case, what would be the best place to start, in terms of medication? I would normally go for Kanaplex and Furan II for anything internal, but is this the best choice, in his case? 

[dapperpets]

What do you recommend keeping on hand for bettas for medicine and what do you feed your betta? Thank you 💗

Anytime 😊💖 And as far as medicine rn I have on hand aquarium salt (simply bc I was misinformed about it when I bought it, I STRONGLY RECOMMEND AGAINST ITS USE), Artemis by microbe lift, and stress coat. I am not as well versed on betta illnesses as I'd like to be so if anyone has recommendations of other things I should keep on hand lmk. I don't have this on hand currently (bc I can't find it) but frozen daphnia is a natural laxative for betta and should be used to help digestive problems rather than peas which the use of them is based on some pretty outdated info. As for food my betta is picky and currently very stressed so I am currently just feeding him what I know he will eat which is omega one buffet pellets, my guy loves the stuff and omega one is a very good brand! New life spectrum I haven't personally tried yet but is also quite good from what I hear! Also on hand I have freeze dried bloodworms from omega one, a live flightless fruit fly culture, frozen mysis, and frozen brine shrimp. He's eaten the bloodworms on occasion but I'd recommend just going frozen the only reason I went for freeze dried is bc I did not have access to a freezer at the time. He refuses to eat the fruit flies and I tried the mysis once but he's pretty stressed from the move so I'm waiting until he's settled in the new tank once it is done cycling to try the frozen foods again. Itt's good to have a varied diet for your betta,, but a good quality pellet food should really be your staple and they CAN do fine on just pellets, it's just healthier to have some variety. Also I cannot remember what brand my frozen food is but avoid San Francisco Bay brand, I have heard they're not so good for your fish.

[marinehobby]

Hikari Bio-Pure Frozen Fish Food

Hikari Bio-Pure Frozen Fish Food

I have started to like the Hikari Bio-Pure Frozen Fish Food, Mysis Shrimp, Blood Worms and Brine Shrimp. They come in medicine like packing, 32 cubes in total. One just has to take it out of the freezer, pop out one of the cubes, mix in a bowl of water and feed directly to the fish. Frozen fish food is not widely available in the local aquarium stores in India as of now, but I see them all in the…

[fishcareinfo-blog]

Livingstoni Cichlid (Livingston's Cichlid, Livingston's Hap, Livingstonii)

The Livingstoni Nimbochromis livingstonii (previously Haplochromis livingstonii) is a large handsome cichlid. This fish can reach close to 10 inches (25 cm) in length. Its color pattern is highly contrasting, with prominent dark blotches on a yellow, silver, or bluish background. There is also a "star" pattern to the eye, created by 4 lines dark lines radiating outward. This provides an excellent camouflage for it in its natural habitat, where it swims among plants and preys on smaller fishes. Other names it is known by include Livingston's Cichlid, Livingston's Hap, and Livingstonii. The impressive size along with its interesting behavior and handsome color pattern make this a very interesting aquarium inhabitant. The German name for the Livingstoni Cichlid is the 'Sleeper'. This term originated from its unusual predatory behavior of 'playing dead'. This cichlid will stay on the bottom of the aquarium, lying flat on its side for long periods of time. When smaller fish approach as if to nibble at the dead carcass, they are captured with a lightning quick lunge. It will instantly grab it using a sideways motion of its head and mouth.

Playing Dead This ambushing tactic is a very clever trait found in all the cichlids in the Nimbochromis genus. These cichlids are different from the Mbuna cichlids in the way that they prefer open swimming areas where the rocks meet the sand. The members of this genus are all very smart, stealthy predatory fish, but each has its own distinctive technique. An interesting example is the Elephant Nosed Cichlid N. linni. It will rest with its chin on the rocks just above a hideout of small fish, remaining motionless waiting for the small prey to venture out. Then he quickly extends his highly protusable mouth and sucks the prey up. A slightly different ambushing technique is employed its close relative, the Venustus Cichlid N. venustus. This cichlid will partially bury itself in the sand. Then it will then hold very still waiting for an unsuspecting small fish to swim by. Once its prey is within reach, it will quickly dart out of the sand to snatch it. The Livingstoni Cichlid is very similar in appearance to the Venustus Cichlid, but is not quite as colorful as it lacks the blue coloration seen on the head of Venustus. It has also often been confused with the Polystigma Cichlid, N. polystigma, which is very similar as it also has the large blotches. However the Polystigma Cichlid has many small dots all over its body as well, which are missing in the Livingstoni. This is a great fish for both the intermediate and experienced aquarists. It is not a community fish but makes an impressive display in a large cichlid aquarium. Although it is very aggressive as a predator, it is a fairly peaceful among its own kind. They have a "harem polygyny" nature where males maintain a territory with several females, so it is best to keep one male with at least three females. Do not mix them with the overactive and aggressive Mbunas. This cichlid is generally easy to care for as long as the aquarist realizes their predatory nature and need for a lot of space. A minimum of 70 gallons is okay when small, but because they grow quickly and have a predatory nature, 125 gallons or more is suggested for adults. They are not as demanding as far as water quality compared to most cichlids, but they do need to be fed properly to avoid Malawi bloat. A sand substrate will make them feel most at home. Make sure there are lots of hiding places in rocks and wood. They need some open areas in which to swim so its best to place the decor towards the back of the aquarium. They also like lots of plants, such as Vallisneria, which creates a more natural environment for them. Even though these fish will burrow, they don't disturb them. For Information on keeping freshwater fish, see: Freshwater Aquarium Guide: Aquarium Setup and Care

Scientific Classification

Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Chordata Class: Actinopterygii Order: Perciformes Family: Cichlidae Genus: Nimbochromis Species: b

Livingstoni Cichlid - Quick Aquarium Care

Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate Size of fish - inches: 9.8 inches (24.99 cm) Minimum Tank Size: 125 gal (473 L) Temperament: Semi-aggressive Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy Temperature: 73.0 to 82.0° F (22.8 to 27.8° C)

Habitat: Distribution / Background

The Livingstoni Nimbochromis livingstonii was described by G{uuml}nther in 1894. This is one of the original Haplochromis group and was previously described as Haplochromis livingstonii. It occurs in the Africa rift lake area and is endemic to Lake Malawi, Lake Malombe, and the upper Shire River. Other common names it is known by are Livingston's Cichlid, Livingston's Hap, and Livingstonii. This species is listed on the IUCN Red List as Lease Concern (LC). It is endemic to Lake Malawi, Lake Malombe, and the upper Shire and is very widespread. There is a possible population decline in the southern part of Lake Malawi thought to be related to trawl fishing in that area, but there are no other recognized threats at present. They are found in all kinds of habitats from shallow lakeshores down to depths of 374 feet (114 m). They are most common in vegetated sheltered bays swimming among Vallisneria plants. They are usually solitary and territorial, and feed on small fish and invertebrates. They use an ambush technique of lying flat on the sand waiting for small fish to swim over it. Then quickly, using a sideways motion of its head and mouth, it will snatch the unaware prey. Scientific Name: Nimbochromis livingstonii Social Grouping: Solitary IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern

Description

The Livingstoni is a good sized cichlid with a stocky, elongated body and a large mouth. They reach up to about 10 inches (25 cm) in length. They have an interesting color patterning provides a good camouflage for them in their natural habitat, where they swim among plants and prey on smaller fishes. The body can range from silvery, yellowish or blue, but with a highly contrasting black blotched patterning. The blotches are connected in a random manner both horizontally and vertically. They eye has four dark bold stripes radiating outward. The dorsal fin can have some blue with an orange to red band, and sometimes a white line. There are faint spots on the pectoral fins and the anal fin is usually orange to red. The males have an egg shaped pattern on the anal fin and can have some blue on the forehead. Females are similarly patterned, but less colorful and without the egg spot or the blue forehead. Juveniles have a white and brown spotted patterning. This fish has a life span of up to 10 years. All cichlids share a common feature that some saltwater fish such as wrasses and parrotfish have and that is a well-developed pharyngeal set of teeth that are in the throat, along with their regular teeth. Cichlids have spiny rays in the back parts of the anal, dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins to help discourage predators. The front part of these fins are soft and perfect for precise positions and effortless movements in the water as opposed to fast swimming. Cichlids have one nostril on each side while other fish have 2 sets. To sense "smells" in the water, they suck water in and expel the water right back out after being "sampled" for a short or longer time, depending on how much the cichlid needs to "smell" the water. This feature is shared by saltwater damselfish and cichlids are thought to be closely related. Size of fish - inches: 9.8 inches (24.99 cm) Lifespan: 10 years - They have a lifespan of about 10 years with proper care.

Fish Keeping Difficulty

This is a great fish for both the intermediate and experienced cichlid keeper. Although it is highly predatory in nature, it is one of the more peaceful cichlids with its own kind. It needs a good sized aquarium and the aquarists must be willing to do frequent water changes and provide appropriate tank mates, In the proper setup it will easily adapt and readily accept prepared foods. Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Foods and Feeding

The Livingstoni are omnivorous, but in the wild they habitually feed on fish so can be considered a piscivore. In the aquarium they do best with a high protein diet, so can be fed live or frozen food, freeze dried krill, pellets, and other high quality foods for piscivores. Occasionally feed mysis shrimps and feeder fish, though feeder fish can initiate hunting instincts and cause more aggression. They need some herbivorous foods as well to balance out their diet. Young up to 3 to 4" can be fed flake, but after that flake is too messy and will foul the water. Adults do best when fed frozen foods twice a week. They will eat to the point of their stomach being distended, so be very careful to not overfeed. Diet Type: Omnivore - This fish is primarily a predatory piscivore, though it will eat some vegetable foods on occasion. Flake Food: Yes - Flakes work fine for juveniles until they reach about 3-4", but then they become too messy for the tank. Tablet / Pellet: Yes Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet Vegetable Food: Some of Diet Meaty Food: Most of Diet Feeding Frequency: Daily - Juveniles can be fed daily, but as adults 2 - 3 feedings a week are fine.

Aquarium Care

Malawi Cichlids will deteriorate under poor water conditions. Water changes of 10% to 20% a week depending on bioload. Malawi bloat is a typical disease especially if over fed and there is a lack of some herbivorous foods that are high quality Water Changes: Weekly - Water changes of 10-20% weekly are suggested, depending on the bio load.

Aquarium Setup

The streams that flow into Lake Malawi have a high mineral content. This along with evaporation has resulted in alkaline water that is highly mineralized. Lake Malawi is known for its clarity and stability as far as pH and other water chemistries. It is easy to see why it is important to watch tank parameters with all Lake Malawi fish. Rift lake cichlids need hard alkaline water but are not found in brackish waters. Salt is sometimes used as a buffering agent to increase the water's carbonate hardness. This cichlid has some salt tolerance so can be kept in slightly brackish water conditions. However it not suited to a full brackish water tank. It can tolerate a salinity that is about 10% of a normal saltwater tank, a specific gravity of less than 1.0002. A minimum 70 gallon tank will work when small, but because they grow quickly and have an aggressive nature, 125 gallons is suggested. They do fine in either freshwater or brackish freshwater but need good water movement along with very strong and efficient filtration. Poor water quality will ruin their eyes. Keeping the ph above neutral is important. They can tolerate any Ph above neutral, but a ph level of 8 is best. Sand for substrate will make them feel most at home. Sand used for saltwater fish or freshwater can be used. If keeping them with a higher ph, the saltwater sand can help keep the ph up. Crushed coral or aragonite sand can also increase the water's carbonate hardness, and tend to dissolves easier than salts. However if you use a rough substrate, they will be scratched up due to their nature of burying themselves. Keeping a higher pH however, means that ammonia is more lethal, so regular water changes are a must for these fish. They like a lot of hiding places in rocks and wood, but place the decor towards the back of the aquarium. Most importantly there needs to be a lot of swimming areas along the middle and bottom of the tank. They also like lots of plants such as Vallisneria, which creates a more natural environment for them. They will burrow but pose no threat to plants. Minimum Tank Size: 125 gal (473 L) - When small they can be kept in a minimum 70 gallon tank, but for adults 125 gallons is suggested. Suitable for Nano Tank: No Substrate Type: Sand Lighting Needs: Moderate - normal lighting Temperature: 73.0 to 82.0° F (22.8 to 27.8° C) Range ph: 7.7-8.6 Hardness Range: 6 - 10 dGH Brackish: Sometimes - Salt is not found in their natural environment, but they do have a slight tolerance, keep levels below 10% - a specific gravity of less than 1.0002. Water Movement: Moderate Water Region: All - These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium.

Social Behaviors

The Livingstoni Cichlids are not community fish. Though only moderately aggressive, they are predaceous and will eat anything small. They are best kept in a species tank or with other cichlids. They are relatively peaceful among themselves, but get very territorial when spawning. They should not be kept with Mbunas (smaller rock dwelling cichlids). Also don't put this fish with peaceful cichlids. Since they are polygamist breeders they are best kept in groups of one male and several females l (three or more). During spawning they will attack and kill any other males of the same species in the tank unless the tank is large. If overstocking is used as a form of aggression reduction, care should be taken to do several partial water changes a week. Temperament: Semi-aggressive - Although they are voracious predators, they are only moderately aggressive as long as the tank is large enough. Compatible with: Same species - conspecifics: Yes - They are best kept in groups of 1 male with 3 or more females. The male will attack and kill another male. Peaceful fish (): Threat Semi-Aggressive (): Safe Aggressive (): Monitor Large Semi-Aggressive (): Monitor Large Aggressive, Predatory (): Threat Slow Swimmers & Eaters (): Threat Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Threat - is aggressive Plants: Monitor

Sex: Sexual differences

The male has egg shaped patterns on its' anal fins. He is also larger than the female and can have a blue hue on his forehead.

Breeding / Reproduction

The Livingstoni Cichlids are egg layers and form matriarchal families. They are polygamous in nature with a male attending several females. This cichlid has been bred in captivity. It is best to place one male with at least three females. Unlike others in this genus, they do not dig a spawning pit. They like a flat stone or slate to lay the eggs on. The female will lay up to 100 eggs. Being a mouth brooder she will then pick up the eggs into her mouth for incubation. She will care for the larvae and eggs and when they become fry, she will take them into her mouth at night or anytime she percieves danger. The fry can eat cyclopeeze and finely crushed flake. Ease of Breeding: Easy

Fish Diseases

Malawi bloat is a typical disease for the Livingstoni Cichlid, especially if their dietary needs are not met with quality foods. They are susceptible to typical fish ailments, especially if water is stale and of poor quality and oxygenation. One common problem is Ich. Follow this link for Ick treatment and other information. As with most fish they are susceptible to typical fish ailments, especially if water is stale and of poor quality and oxygenation. are prone to skin flukes and other parasitic infestations (protozoa, worms, etc.), fungal infections, and bacterial infections. It is recommended to read up on the common tank diseases. Knowing the signs and catching and treating them early makes a huge difference. For information about freshwater fish diseases and illnesses, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.

Availability

The Livingstonii Cichlid is usually found online and are moderately priced, but prices vary depending on whether they are male, female, or juvenile. They are also found in fish stores, though may be special ordered if you are willing to wait for them if they are out of season. Read the full article

[wecappafc]

The Royal Gramma - A Guide on The Stunning BASSLET, Gramma Loreto

The royal gramma (Gramma Loreto), along with the percula clownfish, flame angel, yellow tang and the blue tang make up the five most recognizable fishes in the marine aquarium hobby. It is also known as the fairy basslet.

Royal Gramma -Gramma loreta - Photo: Wikimedia

The royal gramma is brilliantly colored. Its front half is a rich bluish-purple while the rest of its body is a bright yellow mixed in with some orange. There is a single black stripe that streaks through its eyes.There is also a single black spot at the front of its dorsal fin.

They are commonly found throughout the Caribbean Sea. They retail for as little as $15 dollars and are disease resistant and hardy. A winning combination. Cheap, beautiful, plentiful and easy to keep in an aquarium.

They are commonly mistaken for the bicolor dottyback (Pseudochromis Bicolor) as they both have very similar colors. Telling them apart is easy. The bicolor dottyback does not have a black streak running from its snout through its eyes.

The royal gramma is a good candidate for a wide variety of aquariums. They are a relatively peaceful fish, provided they have a small territory of their own.

I have personally kept the royal gramma with clownfish, dwarf angels, large angels, gobies, damsels and dottybacks and have found that it does well with all of them. Again, only if they have their own territory. There can be trouble if any fish continually attempts to enter its shelter.

They can reach lengths of nearly 4 inches in their natural habitat. Such lengths are generally unseen in captivity. Expect your royal gramma to get as big as 3 inches.

I've seen hobbyists successfully keep one in a 10-gallon tank. Personally, i think at least a 20 gallon is the minimum size you should use with the royal gramma. The only way I'd ever keep one in a 10 gallon is if its the only fish in the tank.

Royal grammas are carnivores that eat copepods and plankton in the wild. They are completely reef safe so you don't have to worry about any coral nipping.

A variety of meaty foods should be offered. Krill, Mysis shrimp and Prime Reef (A great blend of seafood) are all great frozen foods to feed. They normally begin eating very quickly after introduction.

Efforts to breed the royal gramma have been successful. They are nest builders that use macroalgae as material for their spawning site (usually a cave).

The male attempts to lure the female into its newly built spawning site by quivering and flaring his fins. If the female is receptive to the males advances, she will then enter his cave and begin spawning. Their larvae accept rotifers and eventually baby brine shrimp without hesitation.

While breeding in captivity has been successful, the vast majority of royal grammas sold are still wild caught. Breeding of this fish isn't wide spread by any means and high rearing costs normally mean losing out to cheaper, wild caught specimens.

By Indran Manickam

On my hubpages site I've written many guides covering this fish, the royal gramma as well as other popular species like the blue tang. All guides are photo and video heavy.

Article Source: EzineArticles

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