#Angora Mohair Wig

[marzipanandminutiae]

What did they use for the dolls' hair? Was it human, horsehair? Were there differences in styling capability depending on what they used?

Many materials have been used for doll hair the world over, but I'm going to assume that we're talking about my speciality (18th-early 20th century western dolls) for this ask.

Human hair has been used at times, yes! Horsehair less so- flax was often used in the 18th century, and mohair- that is, angora goat wool -reigned nearly supreme for much of the 19th. Some Victorian baby and toddler dolls feature lambskin wigs, too, prized for their baby-fine platinum curls.

Human hair had all the styling capabilities we're familiar with, and far and away took the prize for realism. I imagine mohair was so popular because it was somewhat cheaper. Human locks came mostly from the big hair-buying fairs all over the European countryside, where buyers would pay peasant women for their hair and then sell it in turn to hairpiece-makers for people and dolls alike. Whereas mohair simply had to be shorn from a goat's underbelly. But that's just speculation- I don't actually know which, if either, made a doll any cheaper.

Doll with human hair wig. German, by the Kestner firm, probably 1880s-90s.

Mohair could be pretty style-able too. As I've mentioned before, a lot of lady/fashion dolls came with long, loose mohair wigs that could be put up with tiny dolls' hairpins. Just like Mama's, Auntie's, or Big Sister's, which must have been a delightful extra level of play. It does take a slightly higher heat to iron-curl, but I'm not sure children of the day would have done that as often as modern dealers and collectors did.

Fashion doll with mohair wig. French, by the Gaultier firm, probably c. 1870s-80s. Note that her wig seems to have suffered some fiber loss, something that can happen to mohair and human hair alike.

People often get. Weird. About human hair doll wigs. How often do you see horror movies that mention a doll having "real human hair" as a Scare Factor? And yet, there's really nothing scary about it IRL. The hair was purchased from more or less willing sellers (usually), commercially processed, and widely available. There are apocryphal stories about dolls being made using the hair of deceased children, but very few of these- if any -have been confirmed to my satisfaction. And even if they were true, that would have seemed touching back then, not ghoulish.

If every doll with a human hair wig were haunted, there would be

A. MANY more haunted dolls, and

B. a ton of very confused and not especially angry European peasant woman ghosts hanging around

[20dollarlolita]

@zypiris

So people who dye are free to correct me. I've tried to fact-check all of what I'm about to say, but sometimes I'm still wrong about stuff like this.

But basically, natural fibers can be divided into two groups: cellulose and protein.

Acid dyes can dye protein fibers, but not cellulose.

Fiber reactive dyes, in general, can dye all of these, but it gets a little bit funky when you get into how. Tulip is a specific presentation of fiber reactive dye, so not everything that can be dyed with fiber reactive dye will dye with Tulip.

Tulip is specifically built so that it's easy and safe to use, but still gives good results. This means they use safer products (I believe sodium bicarbonate instead of sodium carbonate for the PH adjuster) and simplified techniques (omitting the soda ash soak and just mixing it with the dye powder). Because these dyes are made more easy-to-use, they're also aimed to target a smaller range of fiber types than what most fiber reactive dyes can do. This system works really well for them, and it's why they make the most commonly-available and recognizable tie dye kits out there.

They specifically target cellulose fibers. Cellulose fibers come from plants, so they include cotton, hemp, linen/flax, jute, bamboo fiber, and ramie. They also include synthetics made from plant pulp, so rayon, bamboo rayon, modal, all those great ones for polluting the planet, and also tencel/lyocell. They're synthetic, but they also are made of plant pulp, so they're cellulose fibers.

Protein fibers are fibers made from hair, and also silk. Silk is a special case. But wool, alpaca, mohair, angora, whatever fibers made from yaks are called, felted cat hair, your own hair, etc are all protein fibers. Silk is also a protein fiber, but it's not a hair fiber. Silk is basically just doing its own thing at all times. It's the only naturally occurring filament fiber, it's a protein fiber that's not a hair fiber, it's just doing whatever it wants. No wonder people have fought wars over it.

From a dye viewpoint, you can use fiber reactive dyes on hair fibers and silk, but you cannot use really harsh bases with them. It'll damage the hair more than we want. In addition, silk, being the rebel that it is, will take your fiber reactive dyes and turn them different colors. It's really bad at accepting blue pigments, so your black dye is now purple and your purple dye is now raspberry and boy howdy aren't you glad you did test swatches because otherwise you cannot know what on earth that color is going to be.

Acid dyes, on the other hand, only work on protein fibers, but they're pretty easy to use. They're a hot water dye, so you put your wool sweater in your designated dye wok and heat it up. You'll be able to tell when the dye process is complete because the pigment will leave the water and go into your fiber, leaving your water almost clear.

Oh, and nylon, while neither a protein fiber or a hair fiber, will take acid dye really well. Chemically, the structure of a nylon molecule is similar to a hair fiber, so nylon takes acid dye really well.

You might notice that the "make a big vat of dye, add vinegar, boil things in it, tadah" sounds a whole lot like Rit's promise of "make a big vat of dye, boil things in it, eh it's fine!" Remember how Rit is two different kinds of dye in one bottle? One of those is an acid dye, and it's why the instructions on Rit tell you to add vinegar if you're dyeing silk/wool/nylon. Again, Rit isn't as good as a pure acid dye, because it's got all that direct dye floating around in it and that direct dye is going to fail to bind to your wool/silk/nylon and make an annoying mess to rinse out.

But Rit is available at Safeway and it's easy to use, so I still use it.

Did I mention that nothing dyes polyester? Because I get that question a lot, so let's mention it. If you need to dye modacrylic (wigs, fake fur) then Katie Bair's Petting Zoo Wig Dye does that really well. I have no idea what's in that stuff or why it works, but I have checked it out and it does actually bind to the fibers and stop bleeding and washing out. I've dyed wigs with this shit that have been used in theatrical productions that run for months and need to get washed and restyled every four shows (makeup and sweaty actors) and this stuff stays put.

[clouetvis]

Minifee Chloe par J&C entangled

[dollhalla]

Angora mohair wig for sale by SophyMolly Via Flickr: Angora mohair wig for sale "Spring" Size 8-9' NECKLACE for gift Two colors: blue + violet Angora mohair, Elastic soft cap with elastic cord, no need silicone cap. Worldwide shipping www.etsy.com/ru/listing/231303021/angora-mohair-wig-for-b...

[wallpaperpainting]

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Donate

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[boardinghouse-of-dolls]

(via Geometric hairstyle bright wig from angora goat mohair for bed)

Amazing bjd wig by SophyMolly on easy: love the color way and cut <3

[kaxen]

I experimented using different fibers for the needlefelting method for a wig.

Synthetic hair works the worst, as I would have expected since it’s just slick. It takes the longest to felt into place. And if you felting needle hits it but doesn’t jam it into the felt well, you just end up with some gross crinkled fibers.

Plain yarn sort of works but you might not felt each strand evenly and it’ll look partially unraveled. 

Unraveled yarn works fine.

Unraveled + brushed yarn works about the same as natural fibers.

Wool, angora, alpaca and natural mohairs are all good for needle felting. 

YMMV on brushing out yarn since every brand uses slightly different fibers. I know Red Heart is terrible for brushing out. I know Caron Simply Soft can make some reasonable size locks for a doll and has a nice amount of gloss which looks good for hair. 

And for the wig base, synthetic felt and wool blend felt are functionally similar enough. I am too cheap for 100% wool felt. >_<’ 

[marzipanandminutiae]

you asked and I am desperate for an excuse to happy to deliver! presenting A Point-By-Point Takedown of This BS Doll Article By Some Lady Calling Herself A Professional Antiques Appraiser

so she starts off with a random story about how she was in a warehouse doing appraisals and a dresser started glowing, and when she looked in the dresser the source of the glow was an antique doll. this convinced her that dolls “carry the energy of wicked little girls.” but not all of them! anyway now she’s scared of dolls. but not really. but yes, really

...okay then

she then shares a doll one E.H. sent her photos of for appraisal

(Pretty! French fashion doll, I’d say maybe a Barrois or an early Bru, late 1860s.  You can tell by the distinctive “cobalt blue” eyes, that deep sapphire shade that only appears in the earliest era of FFs. Wig looks original, almost certainly mohair, and she has some sort of blouse or gown on that seems antique from the look of the lace. Could be a modern-made garment with antique materials. She’d probably fetch over $1,000 at auction unless there's some REALLY bad damage elsewhere on her person.)

EH’s one doll has a fabulous body that points to its age as 3rd quarter 19th century, because the body is made of fine-grained hand stitched leather. So what follows is a rough explanation of how you can determine if your doll is OLD, and that of course influences value – to an extent. The older dolls that are valuable are ALSO rare. And by the 1890’s dolls really were NOT rare.

Couple of issues with this. first of all, kid leather bodies can be seen on dolls as far back as the 1820s and as late in time as the early 1920s. the typical French fashion bodies were fairly distinctive,  but just saying that the material determines the age isn’t correct. or if it is, it’s not a very precise dating

also like...what even is the last sentence? dolls weren’t rare in the 1890s. dolls weren’t rare in the 1860s. dolls can be made out of literally anything, at any price point, and have been present in almost every culture in human history. dolls, as a broad category, have never been inherently rare

if she’s saying dolls from the 1890s are not considered rare by today’s standards...oh honey, meet my dear friend the Simon and Halbig 1159

(This doll is c. 1900. This doll fetched $1,800 at auction. What was that about age determining value, again?)

also maybe Google “German art character dolls.” friendly suggestion

Another fact about doll valuation is that the best antique dolls are not replicas of children, but are replicas of fabulously well-dressed young women.

this is so ridiculous I laughed out loud. there is no single “best” type of antique doll. some people will pay top dollar for Kewpies, others for 1880s child dolls, others still for first-issue Barbies. there are examples that are the rarest in their class of doll, sure, but no one class dominates across the board. it’s one thing to say a certain type is your favorite and another to say it’s the Best(TM) as a professional appraiser

My favorite fashionable young lady dolls, French or German, have leather bodies made of kid leather, stuffed with cork or sawdust. When you check the bodies, look for tight stitching at the joints, because, if the arms and legs are meant to move, they must be compress seamed. That makes sense because with the stuffing, a moved joint will pop open if not sewn correctly. Look for another overlay of leather at the joint called a gusset, which indicates greater value. Only the legs, the body, and the top of the arms and shoulders will be made of leather. The arms will be creamy porcelain or bisque, or sometimes a wood pulp combination composite material. You will notice the head and shoulder plate fits in a U-curve around the shoulders, which are leather and affixed expertly.

couple of things

1. not all FFs have the bisque lower arms- that’s a rarity point, not the norm. most with leather bodies have leather arms, too.

(This is my Jeanette. She has leather arms. Guess she’s not really a French fashion doll, then, despite her markings, face painting, face mold, body construction, eye type, and literally everything else about her!)

2. this describes most reproduction FFs out there, and many bodies used for German child dolls later on. so unless you’re planning to give people other things to look for, not entirely helpful

oh but wait! here are the other things to look for! let’s venture

The best French Fashion dolls wear the latest styles and little girls never played with them. Wealthy fashionistas in the 3rd quarter of the 19th century collected them.

remember, all that contemporary hand-wringing about little girls being corrupted by their fashionable “Paris dolls” was planted by Big Children(TM). #wakeupsheeple #thetruthisoutthere

These come in the finest white leather bodies with a nice bust line and quite wide hips, as we know as the style for the shapely ladies of the 1870 and 1880’s.

...who’s going to tell her leather bodies are definitely not the finest

can it be me

can it be me with my Charlotte, who has one of the rarest wooden body types that I’m still not sure how I got for such a (relative) steal

can it be us, perched on the end of her bed, at midnight

The hairstyles of real human hair will also be ‘period’, and some will have real gem jewelry. These weren’t meant as toys for a middle class little girl. These were expensive and can sell today for a couple thousand dollars in perfect shape. Surprisingly the leather has withstood time if well preserved.

as I said earlier, for French fashions, mohair (wool from an angora goat) was a WAY more common wig material than human hair. sometimes the hair will be down, not in a “period” style, because it was meant to be played with and styled by the child owner

real gem jewelry DID exist for these dolls, but most of what you’re likely to find is of rhinestones and gilt. that was much more common, as you’d expect

a middle-class little girl, if she was very lucky, might be able to count one middling or lower-range French lady among her dolls. they were expensive, but, well, middle-class girls often have one American Girl doll today, right? these dolls ranged in price from AG-level to “this was bought for a young princess and has that real gem jewelry mentioned above”

her price assessment is accurate for the majority of FFs, with outliers on either end ranging from “got really lucky with a seller who didn’t know what they had” to “a museum bought this doll because not even the richest collectors could afford to.” but...well, just keep that “couple of thousand dollars” figure in your mind for later

Let’s compare this leather-bodied doll with another cheaper type of body. In the late 19th century a ball-jointed body could be made of a wood pulp composition material, or even Papiermâché with little hinges of wood at the joints. Of course, since these bodies are wood based, they’re painted, and you’ll find the ghastly colors, as the once flesh tones turn to green or olive.

remember that doll from 1900 I showed you? 

she has a jointed composition body

$1,800

I do not feel any further comment is necessary at this juncture

(leather bodies came to be considered something of a budget option when the jointed compo bodies came into common use, because they couldn’t be posed and took less work/expense to make)

Finally, let’s think about the heads, if we dare.

oh bite me

Most heads are made of a porcelain type of material, and in this case, the porcelain is usually white with a painted ON skin tone. If the head is Bisque, bisque is material that will take a color or stain into itself and is often not painted nor glazed. The porcelain heads are more prized.

okay kids

porcelain is a type of very fine, translucent ceramic. it can be made matte, often called bisque, or shiny and glossy, often called china

(this stylish miss by Francois Gaultier is of matte bisque, the most common type of porcelain finish used for French fashion dolls. she’s also rocking the baby bangs look, and kudos to her for that)

(this early girl by Rohmer, on the other hand, has a glossy, shiny china head. note again the cobalt-blue eyes, another clue to her age. this is rarer than matte bisque for French fashions, though German glazed china dolls with molded hair could be quite commonplace depending on many factors like size, body type, hairstyle, etc.)

complicating everything further, a lot of older and even contemporary sources can use “bisque,” “porcelain,” and “china” interchangeably. context is key. but in modern terms, that’s sort of the breakdown

ding dong this blogger is wrong

You’ll see what I mean when I say dolls are sometimes too lifelike for my taste–or my nightmares. Notice the toes on EH’s doll. Pretty obsessive. The value is unknown until I find the maker of the doll, but a rough estimate might be $600, because the outfit seems original.

stitched toes are normal on kid-bodied French fashions in the most common size range (14″-17″). also

(The actual picture provided)

THIS gives you nightmares? really? I have Many Questions

also remember that valuation from earlier? a couple of thousand dollars? yeah. now she comes back with $600

depending on size, condition, and costume intricacy, I’ve seldom seen a doll of this type sell for less than $1,700 at auction (source: the online catalogue of past auctions at Theriault’s, the premier doll auction house in the U.S., and also personal experience)

and that’s a problem because the doll’s owner is PAYING for this “appraiser’s” services. they’re PAYING for an accurate idea of what they have and what it’s worth, whether for selling or insurance purposes. even if it’s just out of personal curiosity, you shouldn’t be swindled for a slew of misinformation and half-truths capped off by a wildly inaccurate dollar value

also the Creepy Doll stuff is massively unprofessional

Marzi out

[kagami-design]

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[littlebitoffoolishness]

Yesterday was our second annual Yarnapolooza.  Connie and I took the day off of work for our birthdays.  For Christmas this year, I adopted an Alpaca for Connie from Willowbrook Alpacas.  So this year’s Yarnapolooza was named for Connie’s adopted alpaca, “The Marcus Adventures.”  She even made t-shirts for us to wear, with Marcus pooping yarn!

We started off our day visiting Marcus at Willowbrook Alpacas.  We were able to hang out with the alpacas and pet and feed them.  They are all so cute and we didn’t get spit on!  Bonus.  We also got to visit with horses, a goat, and Magnus, the chocolate lab.  Such wonderful hospitality!  Now I want an alpaca.  I wonder how my cats would react.  lol

Hello Marcus!

Marcus

Connie and I show off our t-shirts

Feeding an alpaca

Marcus sniffs my hand

Marcus wants the food

Connie feeding an alpaca

Breakfast time

Max is a suri alpaca.

Look at those adorable faces

Bye Marcus!

This year we ended up going to three local yarn stores and Hobby Lobby.  Kid Ewe Knot is my regular yarn shop and one of my favorites in the area.  I just think the selection here is awesome and the owner is so nice.  I found lots of pretty yarn to add to my stash here including a beautiful Mohair yarn.  What’s funny is I bought this same yarn in a different color last year.  At least my taste is consistent.

Next up was Hobby Lobby.  I was able to but a really soft lining for the hat and cowl that I made.  I found brown yarn that I was looking for to make a wig for Halloween.  I also bought some scrubby yarn.  I just think Hobby Lobby has the best yarn available outside of a yarn shop.

We drove out to Sewickley and stopped at Sewickley Yarns.  I ended up buying some cute sock yarn and this gorgeous yarn from Manos del Uruguay.  I’ve used their yarn before and just love it.  Connie also commented that I always find the best yarn and she never sees it.

We ended the day at Dyed in the Wool.  They has this amazing baby alpaca yarn that I was so tempted to buy, but I refrained myself.  I did end up with this amazing angora yarn.

I have a yarn addiction, and this annual trip really feeds my addiction.  Connie says I’m a yarn snob.  I think I just love yarn.  As the one woman said at Sewickley Yarns yesterday, “Why are all the yarns I like so expensive?”  And I responded, “Because you have good taste.”

Next year Connie says we should go on the road for Yarnapolooza.  Hmmm.  Taking a trip to another city to yarn shop for our birthdays?  That could be a lot of fun!

Hello from Kid Ewe Knot

Isn’t it beautiful? All that yarn!

Adding to my stash. ❤

Yarnapolooza II: The Marcus Adventures Yesterday was our second annual Yarnapolooza.  Connie and I took the day off of work for our birthdays. 

[clouetvis]

::Elin:: par J&C entangled

[summerbird-bjd]

Hi there ^-^ I really love your dolls and I just have a few questions. Are unoa face plates expensive? Did you create your chibi roron's wig? Are you going to make any more youtube videos?(I really love your channel) Thank you for reading this :) XoXo Hazel~

Hiya ^^ I’m glad you like my dolls (and my YT channel! There will definitely be more videos, I have a ton of stuff planned! I just got a little preoccupied with RL at the moment so I don’t have much time to film/edit)...

I don’t think Unoa faceplates are that expensive compared to other BJDs, but of course what you think will depend on your budget & circumstances. On unoalchemy.com they’re priced at 5500 yen (inc. worldwide shipping) which is about $49 USD currently. Keep in mind that won’t include a headback (those come with the full dolls only) but you can either buy a secondary market resin headback from someone like Buff (buffdolls.net) or you can do like I did and sculpt your own headback from polymer clay (I’ve done this with 3 Unoas so far and it’s worked great). Since the headback is usually underneath a wig anyway, it doesn’t really matter if it turns out kinda lumpy. It’s also nice for making MNF hybrids, because you can sculpt it to work with the MNF neck mechanism and don’t have to do any modding :)

I did make my Roron’s wig ^^ It’s pretty crazy looking close-up (I am still a novice at wigmaking) but I think it turns out pretty in photos :) It’s made from white angora mohair that I bought on eBay (it was sold for reborn baby dolls), and dyed with Jacquard Acid Dyes. Funny story, it started out as a wig for my Lilin! I wanted a kind of milk tea brown, but the dye turned out much more pinky/purple than I expected. I thought the color looked so nice with my Roron that I just went with it! And it’s still my favorite wig that I’ve made to date XD Just shows that even mistakes can turn out cool in the end!

I hope you don’t mind if I post this publicly, I ended up writing a lot and the info might be helpful to other folks ^^ Thanks so much for asking about my dolls! I’m always happy to answer any questions

[thefairchildren-blog]

An angora mohair wig, my second try! <3 

[veryfartinfluencer-blog]

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[boardinghouse-of-dolls]

Geometric hairstyle bright wig from angora goat mohair for bjd

Simply amazing!

[happilydeepestglitter-blog]

Select the type of doll hair that will realize the desired effect

Therefore a performer offers drawn a facial area, yet the picture has no hair. What to do? Good bald is beautiful, but some people (especially female characters), prefer NOT to be balding. Today, curly hair is in order. There are several primary ways to attach doll hair. Knotting the head of hair in place is one way. Hand sewing a store obtained or handmade wig is another. The easiest way will be to attach doll hair with hot paste, but this should only used for dolls you happen to be going to display not handle frequently. Minimize hair twice the desired length plus a few inches. Cut the yarn into not one but two foot length pieces. You will use about 50 % of a skein for one 20 inch little girls. For a smaller or larger doll fine-tune the length you cut. Take strips with yarn and dab a small drop with hot <a href="https://www.myhairon.com/brazilian-hair/">virgin hair extensions</a> glue on the top seam of the plaything head to attach with the hot glue strategy. Start at the top on the head and operate down both sides to the <a href="https://www.myhairon.com/">www.myhairon.com</a> ear area. Position yarn side by side, gluing in the center of the mixes piece. Dab one dab of glue at a stretch and hold hair in place until it dries. Add some rows of hair in the back. A corner rows do not need to be so close together with each other. Select the type of doll hair that will realize the desired effect. If using yarn opt for color and texture of yarn pertaining to hair. Some yarns make more genuine hair than others. Mohair, angora plus chenille are generally appealing <a href="https://www.myhairon.com/lace-closure/">lace closure</a> opportunities.