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Shade nets are lightweight, knitted fabrics usually made from high-density polyethylene. They have many applications, spanning from agriculture, gardening, construction, infrastructure, landscaping and a lot more. As a reputed shade net rope manufacturer in Kolkata, in this blog, we are going to cover its application in farming and growing a wide variety of crops.
#shade net#shade netting#greenhouse netting#greenhouse shade netting#green net for garden#shade mesh#sun shade net#green net price#greenhouse shading net#shade netting for plants#sun shade netting#50 shade cloth for greenhouse#green house shade net#green shade net#shade netting prices#shade net price
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5 cigars for new smokers
Are you a beginner cigar smoker looking to enhance your smoking experience? Look no further! In this video, we'll share some invaluable tips to help you navigate the world of cigars like a pro. We'll even give you a list of 5 solid, flavorful cigars that are perfect for the new smoker.
With their rich history and complex flavors, Cigars have long captivated aficionados worldwide. However, for beginners, the world of cigars can seem daunting and intimidating. Part of this intimidation stems from the various elements of a cigar - its size, shape, wrapper, filler, and binder. Understanding these components is vital to unlocking the enjoyment that cigars can offer.
So, let us explore the fascinating world of cigars and why they can be intimidating for those just starting out. Here are three very sound tips for new cigar smokers:
Tip number 1: Start with a mild cigar - recommendations include Macanudo Café Hyde Park, Montecristo White, or Oliva Connecticut series.
When it comes to cigars, beginners often need help with the various options. Choosing the right cigar can be daunting, especially for those who have yet to develop their palate. That's why tip number one is simple: start with a mild cigar.
Mild cigars are known for their smooth and subtle flavors, making them the perfect introduction to the world of cigars. They offer a gentler smoking experience that allows beginners to ease into the complexities of tobacco without being overwhelmed.
Tip number 2: Look for a cigar with a Connecticut wrapper for a smoother taste
When selecting a cigar, the wrapper is one of the most important factors to consider. The wrapper leaf plays a significant role in the overall flavor profile of the cigar, as it contributes to the aroma and taste. A cigar with a Connecticut wrapper is an excellent choice for beginners seeking a smoother taste.
Connecticut wrappers are known for their light, golden-brown color, and delicate texture. They are typically shade-grown under muslin cloth or in greenhouses, which results in milder flavors and a smoother smoking experience. These wrappers tend to have subtle notes of creaminess, cedar, and sometimes hints of sweetness, making them an excellent option for beginners who want to ease into the world of cigars without overwhelming their taste buds.
Tip #3: Pay attention to the size and shape of the cigar
Another essential aspect to consider when starting with cigars is the size and shape. Cigars come in a variety of sizes and shapes, each offering a unique smoking experience. It's generally recommended for beginners to start with a classic size - such as a Robusto or Toro.
These sizes are known for their balanced proportions, allowing for an even burn and consistent flavors. Their medium ring gauge (typically around 50) provides a comfortable smoking experience without being too overwhelming. Additionally, their length (usually between 4 and a half to 6 inches) ensures a manageable smoking time that allows beginners to fully enjoy the flavors without feeling rushed.
Next, we will give you a list of 5 flavorful cigars which are highly recommended for new smokers, but please take a minute to like this video and subscribe, would you? Thank you so much!
Macanudo Cafe Hyde Park: The Macanudo Cafe Hyde Park is famous for beginners due to its smooth and mellow flavor profile. It features a Connecticut Shade wrapper, which lends a creamy and slightly sweet taste with notes of cedar. The Hyde Park size, measuring 5.5 inches by 49 ring gauge, offers a comfortable smoking experience that allows you to savor the flavors without feeling overwhelmed.
When smoking, you'll find flavors like delicate creaminess, subtle cedar, and occasional hints of sweetness. This combination creates a well-rounded and enjoyable smoking experience for beginners.
Oliva Connecticut Reserve Petite Corona, The Oliva Connecticut Reserve Petite Corona, is another excellent choice for beginners. With its Ecuadorian Connecticut wrapper, this cigar delivers a smooth and creamy smoking experience.
The petite corona size, measuring 5 inches by 43 ring gauge, is perfect for those who prefer a shorter smoking time. It offers flavors of toasted nuts, subtle spices, and a hint of sweetness, making it an enjoyable option for beginners exploring milder flavors.
Romeo y Julieta 1875 Bully: For those looking for a classic and well-known cigar brand, the Romeo y Julieta 1875 Bully is a great choice. This 5-inch by 50-ring gauge cigar features an Indonesian shade-grown wrapper that produces smooth and mild smoke.
The flavors of cedar, nuts, and subtle sweetness make it an appealing option for beginners. With its consistent construction and approachable flavor profile, the Romeo y Julieta 1875 Bully is a reliable choice for those new to cigars.
The Montecristo White Lable Grande Tubos Robusto, The Montecristo White Label Grande Tubos Robusto, is a premium cigar sure to impress beginners and seasoned smokers. Measuring 5 inches by 52 ring gauge, this Robusto-sized beauty offers a generous smoking experience.
Its stunning Ecuadorian Connecticut wrapper, which lends a smooth and creamy character, sets the Montecristo White Label apart. The flavors of this cigar are rich and complex, with notes of cedar, leather, and a touch of sweetness that lingers on the palate. The construction of the Montecristo White Label is impeccable, ensuring an even burn and a satisfying draw with each puff. The Grande Tubos packaging adds a touch of elegance and convenience, allowing you to enjoy this exquisite cigar wherever you go.
The CAO Gold Robusto The CAO Gold Robusto is a cigar that combines quality and affordability, making it an excellent choice for beginners. Measuring 5 inches by 50 ring gauge, this Robusto-sized cigar offers an approachable and enjoyable medium-bodied smoking experience.
Its beautiful Connecticut seed Ecuadorian wrapper sets the CAO Gold Robusto apart, which gives it a smooth and creamy flavor profile. The notes of vanilla, cedar, and a hint of spice create a well-balanced combination that will please any palate.
The construction of the CAO Gold Robusto is top-notch, ensuring that each puff delivers a consistent and satisfying draw. With its affordable price point, the CAO Gold Robusto allows beginners to explore the world of cigars without breaking the bank. Whether relaxing at home or out on the golf course, this cigar will surely provide a pleasurable smoking experience every time.
The leisure of smoking cigars is one of the fastest growing hobbies in the world. Learning to appreciate the flavors, qualities and workmanship that goes into these fine works of art is a lifelong journey. Please watch this next video, which has been handpicked for you.
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Lost blog found
Here,s the summary of April to September. Starting with my return to Vancouver where I had to sleep in the Airport, on seat pads, wrapped in every piece of clothing i had, and still froze. 30 degrees to 3 degrees!
Home at last I made a good decision: start no new tasks: finish all the undone or half completed jobs. That made a list of actually 100 items, from trivial to major, from putting a lazy susan in the living room to moving the garden 2 miles to a friends field.
That lazy susan , 3 tiers, 2 feet wide , 3 feet tall was for the living room area, a place to store all those pesky stereo cords, battery chargers,cd,s , tape players(walkman, still works!),cameras, plugs and bits and bobs.All this involved making a 2 inch thick 18 inch wide fir plank top, smoothed and finished. Natuarally the carousel was 2 inches too tall to match the existing shelving so I had to cut off the stem and find a screw down floor fitting the right diameter from my boat parts. The bottom was easy. The top meant lying on the floor with a long bit driver and screwing up through the rotating wire shelves. Fun! Sound simple. Took a whole day. This created a spot for the rotating tower of CDs, both CD players,and got all the junk off the big speakers. Looks much better and I can find the DVD player without having to undo tangled wires. Still have to hook upthe record player(400 albums), 6 surround speakers and the giant Akais for that big bass sound. I have music on all the time so having all the bits available and findable is much better. Even got classic headphones (Seinnheiser/ and Fisher) from the free store for full brain blasting volume.
On the 100 list was maintenance, like keeping the old truck running, and installing 4 more fire sprinklers linked to my pond pump for forest fire control. Now every part of the outside of the house gets covered, and the inside sprinklers are live. No fires, good!
Gardening: Last years infestation of wireworms devastated my garden, eating all the plant roots, so I moved my whole show to a friends field 2 miles away. Lots of communting on my vintage motorcycle. Flat dirt so I planted 50 foot row crops like squash, broccoli, spuds, carrotts ,beets, peas and 4 kinds of heritage beans. Kale volunteered and the starter squash plants proved to be zuccini, so lots to share.
The infested potatoe patch became a berry bush area, interplanted with broccoli, winter cauliflower, and zucchini. I made the fence larger using fish net hung on barb wire(quick) and beach wood to tack down the net edges to keep out the persistant sheep. Berrys need bird netting so I wrestled with a couple of bent Costco shade shelter frames and drapped them with fine fishnet. Sounds simple Eh? Except it needed new irrigation lines, a run of wire for the thornless blackberrys,and more beach planks for the extended area nets. Maybe a 2 weeks of work.
Beachcombing the planks is fun, sort of a treasure hunt. Cedar to split for posts, with an occasional chunk to split with wedges and a froe into planks and pickets. All packed up to the truck. No wonder everything takes twice as long as I plan.
Spring storms tear up seaweed off the rocks and wash it up in windrows on the rocky beach. I gather it in 20 litre buckets and pack them up 3 at a time to the truck(200 meters.). I gathered 120 buckets and both dug the seaeed in and used it as mulch. Seaweed is an ideal fertilizer, it,s free, and it releases nitrogen into the soil and trace minerals to replace the stuff washed out in the rains.
Gardening can be very time consuming so I use my old Honda tiller to weed the rows, thrash sod, and dig trenches for plants. I cut back my area from 2000 square feet to 1000, not including the 3 greenhouses.. My back porch was a riot of colour with flowers. Geraniums, strawflowers, zinnias,calendula, nasturtiums, cosmos and a volunteer squash that happily ran 12 feet along the porch rail. Those greenhouse are bulging with everything from tomatoes to sweet potatoes, beets for greens,chard, walking onions,peppers,strawberrys, letuce, cucumbers,and more flowers. They all need watering so the greenhouses get a bucket soak every other day and the main garden gets blasted from a 3 inch firehose(it,s fast and effective, lots of water in a hurry) Both my place and the garden site have pretty much unlimited water, so evey thing got soaked well. The orchard(now up to 30 trees) also needed water ( no water, no fruit) so I laid a grid of garden hoses attached to an octopus of valves. Regretably the weather was awful, cold when hot was needed, too hot other times, blazing sun or cold rain, all at the wrong times. Poor yields for all the work, but enough to eat well. Big(1000 pounds) apple crop to can, dry and give away. Poor plums, and scant berrys. Ah well, good exercise.
I bought a rototiller to augment my old Honda and it promptly spun it,s tires and ate the inner tubes. Dealer fixed, but I think it,s gonna be a problem.
Oh, and the 100 list? All done and I only added 50 more!
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Masterbatch Market Growth Analysis, Trends Forecast by Regions and Types to 2030
In 2023, the global masterbatch market size was valued at USD 6.24 billion and is projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.3% from 2024 to 2030. This growth is anticipated to be driven by the increasing substitution of metal components with plastic in end-use industries such as automotive and transportation, building and construction, consumer goods, and packaging. Plastics are preferred in these sectors due to their versatility, reduced weight, and cost-effectiveness compared to metals, which is expected to fuel demand for masterbatch products over the forecast period.
Masterbatch products are available in both solid and liquid forms and are integral in coloring and enhancing various properties of polymers. These products impart key attributes like antistatic, antifog, antilocking, UV stabilizing, and flame retardation qualities to polymers, making them more suitable for a wide range of applications. The product is commonly used with carrier polymers, including polypropylene, polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride, and polyethylene terephthalate, which are widely employed in manufacturing processes like injection molding and extrusion.
The packaging industry in the United States is anticipated to be a significant driver of market growth, with rising demand fueled by the expansion of the e-commerce sector. The U.S. currently has around 16,806 plastic manufacturing facilities spread across all 50 states, highlighting the extensive production infrastructure available for plastics. The increasing application of plastic across various sectors, such as consumer goods, construction, and automotive, is also expected to boost demand for masterbatches in the coming years. Additionally, consumer goods manufacturers are focusing on designing appealing product packaging to attract customers and drive sales. Different types of masterbatches are blended with polymers to create eye-catching packaging, thus propelling the demand for masterbatches in the forecast period.
Gather more insights about the market drivers, restrains and growth of the Masterbatch Market
Type Segmentation Insights:
In terms of product type, black masterbatch dominated the market in 2023, with a revenue share of 28.48%. This demand can be attributed to the high usage of black masterbatch in products like tires, PVC containers, and other components across the automotive, transportation, construction, agriculture, and packaging industries. The agricultural sector, in particular, uses black masterbatch in products such as drip irrigation tubing, greenhouse films, shade cloth, and geomembranes, all of which are anticipated to contribute to market growth during the forecast period.
The demand for color masterbatches is also expected to rise, as color serves as a key differentiator in product marketing. Color masterbatches allow for extensive customization, enabling manufacturers to create products with visually appealing appearances that stand out in the market. This trend toward differentiation and personalization is likely to drive further demand for color masterbatches, catering to consumer preferences for distinct and attractive product designs.
Order a free sample PDF of the Masterbatch Market Intelligence Study, published by Grand View Research.
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Masterbatch Market Analysis, Top Key Players, Drivers and Trends by Forecast to 2030
In 2023, the global masterbatch market size was valued at USD 6.24 billion and is projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 6.3% from 2024 to 2030. This growth is anticipated to be driven by the increasing substitution of metal components with plastic in end-use industries such as automotive and transportation, building and construction, consumer goods, and packaging. Plastics are preferred in these sectors due to their versatility, reduced weight, and cost-effectiveness compared to metals, which is expected to fuel demand for masterbatch products over the forecast period.
Masterbatch products are available in both solid and liquid forms and are integral in coloring and enhancing various properties of polymers. These products impart key attributes like antistatic, antifog, antilocking, UV stabilizing, and flame retardation qualities to polymers, making them more suitable for a wide range of applications. The product is commonly used with carrier polymers, including polypropylene, polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride, and polyethylene terephthalate, which are widely employed in manufacturing processes like injection molding and extrusion.
The packaging industry in the United States is anticipated to be a significant driver of market growth, with rising demand fueled by the expansion of the e-commerce sector. The U.S. currently has around 16,806 plastic manufacturing facilities spread across all 50 states, highlighting the extensive production infrastructure available for plastics. The increasing application of plastic across various sectors, such as consumer goods, construction, and automotive, is also expected to boost demand for masterbatches in the coming years. Additionally, consumer goods manufacturers are focusing on designing appealing product packaging to attract customers and drive sales. Different types of masterbatches are blended with polymers to create eye-catching packaging, thus propelling the demand for masterbatches in the forecast period.
Gather more insights about the market drivers, restrains and growth of the Masterbatch Market
Type Segmentation Insights:
In terms of product type, black masterbatch dominated the market in 2023, with a revenue share of 28.48%. This demand can be attributed to the high usage of black masterbatch in products like tires, PVC containers, and other components across the automotive, transportation, construction, agriculture, and packaging industries. The agricultural sector, in particular, uses black masterbatch in products such as drip irrigation tubing, greenhouse films, shade cloth, and geomembranes, all of which are anticipated to contribute to market growth during the forecast period.
The demand for color masterbatches is also expected to rise, as color serves as a key differentiator in product marketing. Color masterbatches allow for extensive customization, enabling manufacturers to create products with visually appealing appearances that stand out in the market. This trend toward differentiation and personalization is likely to drive further demand for color masterbatches, catering to consumer preferences for distinct and attractive product designs.
Order a free sample PDF of the Masterbatch Market Intelligence Study, published by Grand View Research.
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Garden ALERT!
From Linda Gilkeson:
As we move into the El Nino weather pattern this summer, here comes the first heat wave of the season. Over this weekend, forecasts show highs of 26-28oC [about 80oF] on Vancouver Island and coastal areas and up to 34oC [93oF] further inland and up the Fraser Valley.
new gardeners that might need a warning: These temperature would be too hot for tiny seedlings, newly sown seed beds and plants that have been transplanted recently. No matter how well beds are watered, a bare soil surface can get so hot that seedling roots fry because they are close to the surface. Heat waves this early can also damage the new leaves of perennials and overwintered plants because their leaves have been used to cool, moist conditions and leaf cells have not yet adapted to hot weather. SO, start heat proofing your garden right now:
Hold off on new plantings: If you were planning to sow more seeds this weekend, just wait and do it later in cooler weather. Veggie starts in flats might be better off held in deep shade over the weekend rather than being planted out, especially if you don’t have the means to shade them well.
Shade seedbeds: If seeds haven’t come up yet, use burlap, old beach towels, bedsheets or cut open empty compost bags and spread them white side up, over the beds. Check morning and evening for signs of tiny green shoots, at which point, you must remove opaque covers and replace them with shade cloth or other sun screens.
Shade vulnerable plants: Especially important to protect are cool weather crops (peas, lettuce, leafy greens, any young plants in the cabbage family) and newly transplanted starts. Plants with large, soft leaves (squash, beans) could also experience sunscald injury, especially at the highest temperatures. Use horticultural shade cloth (get a fabric that provide 30%-50% shade, but not more) or use wooden or woven latticework covers (cedar lath panels are available at lumber yards). You can turn plastic lattice-work seedling trays upside down over small seedlings. These options let in enough light that you can leave the shade material in place until the heat wave is over. You can also use opaque materials, such as old bed sheets or any kind of lightweight fabric, lace curtains, lace tablecloths. These don’t let in enough light to be left in place for long so if the heat wave goes on more than a couple of days, deploy the covers by mid-morning and uncover plants in late afternoon so they have some time for photosynthesis in the cooler parts of the day. You can use floating row cover by folding it over several times to make it more opaque and propping it up on stakes so there is good air circulation under it (it was designed to trap heat so don’t cover plants tightly with it) . If you have installed floating row cover or insect netting over carrot and cabbage family seed beds to protect again root fly attack, leave the cover in place and lay shade cloth, curtain material, etc. on top of the insect cover.
Protect plants in greenhouses: Temperatures likely will get far too high without shading so cover greenhouses and tunnels with shade cloth. If that isn’t possible, then shade the plants inside the greenhouse using any kind of shading you can devise. Open vents and doors wide, increase ventilation, use high speed fans to dump heat.
Mulch as much as possible: Spread mulch right now on established plants, such as peas, cabbage family, new strawberry plants, onion seedlings. Mulch plants in greenhouses, too.
AND don’t forget to water: Most of us haven’t been thinking about irrigation yet, so don’t forget to check the soil for moisture and keep plants watered accordingly.
Harvest before the heat: Overwintered spinach, cauliflower, purple sprouting broccoli and other plants are quickly shooting up and this heat will accelerate that. For best quality you might want to harvest before the weekend. The last of my winter cauliflowers are nearly ready so I will cut them before heat causes the curds to separate and lose the sweet, mild flavour.
#climate crisis#heat wave#unnatural disasters#food security#how to#grow your own#food crops#PNW#WX#extreme weather
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Shade nets are the cloths used to make greenhouses. They work by diffusing the amount of sunlight passing through it to create the optimal growing conditions for a specific crop virtually anywhere across the world. This is a product of today’s scientific approach to agriculture and this certainly has helped shape the way agriculture is looked upon today. Shade nets are used in other alternative ways also other than agriculture and thus this product has proved to be versatile. Shade nets are often seen in the color green and that is why we call shade net houses greenhouses but shade net are available in more colors and not for aesthetical choices they each have their own specific benefits and characteristics which is why it is important for us to know what color shade net is the best? When choosing a shade net, it is important to know that the different colors of a shade net influences the growth of different plants in different ways so it is important for us to choose the right one that helps the growth of the plant in the right way. While the color is an important indicator of functionality. There are other important factors also that are to be considered when choosing the ideal shade net such as: Fabric Material
Shade net cloths are available in two variants mainly which are knitted or woven. The knitted variant is made of polyethylene blend which can deflect heat and light and is lightweight. It is also sturdy and can maintain regular wear and tear. The woven variant is purely made out of the polypropylene which has the same benefits as the knitted variant but with added effects like being heavier and more adept to cold weather or use in winter. It does so because of its ability to store heat more than the knitted variant. Density of Material
The density of the material is important as it is the determining factor to how much light passes through the cloth and how much heat is trapped inside the shade net. The density of the material is hence an important factor for choosing the right shade net as this factor makes sure that there is enough light and heat available for the plants to grow in the optimum conditions. The different available variants of shade nets in order of density of material are: 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70-90%. Colour
Finally, we come to the color of shade nets and how they affect the usability of shade nets, some of the most commonly available colors shade net cloths are black and green. There are other colors as well such as white, red, yellow and blue.
Effects of Coloured Shade Net Cloth on Plants
Choosing the right colored shade net is not up to the choice of
aesthetics
as we said earlier, it comes down different factors one of the most important factors being that shade net cloths of lighter colors act as better ventilation for agricultural purposes as they reflect more heat from the sun. White shade net cloths reduce the amount and the harshness or strength of the light entering and not the quality of the light spectrum. Thus, it speeds up the plant growth more than if a green or black shade net cloth was used, for this reason they are often used for flowering plants.
Dark color shade net cloths are better in absorbing the sun’s heat while the light colored shade net cloths reflect the suns heat. Usually dark colored shade net cloths which are green and black are used to deprive the plants of much strong sunlight which keeps the interior heat controlled and it is good for plants that thrive in shade. It has been observed that plants that grow under dark colored shade nets like black or green grow bigger leaves and more nodes in comparison to plants grown under light colored shade nets. Aluminized shade net also provides substantial shade for the plants inside it and promotes a cool growing environment which can help different plants which need cool climate to thrive. Colors such as red and yellow help the plants in the same way as well while they also have the added benefits of being able to filter out different wavelengths of the light which can help protect the plant from radiation damage or sun burns.
For more related products and prices please visit the Al Miqat Hardware store where you can find a variety of new innovative products, sizes and at affordable prices. Website : http://www.almiqathardware.com/
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How to grow alyssum: planting and care
Alyssum is an elegant small flowering plant that appeared in our gardens and parks not too long ago, but its undeniable advantages make us hope that Alyssum's popularity will grow from year to year.
It is hardy, beautiful, blooms profusely and, if properly cared for, can achieve the second wave of blooms in one season. So how to grow Alyssum and what makes it good? This article answers the question.
In our article you will find information to help you with: understanding the species of the plant; planting Alyssum seedlings; planting in flower beds; proper care of the plant for the season; collecting seeds; preparing Alyssum for winter.
PLANTING AND CARE OF ALYSSUM Planting: In-ground sowing early May or November. Seedling sowing in March or April. Seedling in the garden in late May or early June.
Flowering: May to late autumn. Lighting: bright light or semi-shade. Soil: light, dry, fertile, well-drained soil of neutral or alkaline reaction. Watering: Regular, moderate, and abundant in drought. Fertilizer: Plants need nitrogen fertilizer from the time they are vegetated and - before flowering - a full mineral complex. Annuals are fed up to 4 times in a season, perennials, if fertilized for the first time before flowering - 5 times. Pruning: Shorten shoots by 2-3inch (5-8 cm) after flowering in summer. Propagation: Propagated by seeds, cuttings, and divisions. Pests: cruciferous fleas, caterpillars, vegetable moths, whiteflies. Diseases: Phytophthora, powdery mildew, circumsporidiosis, and viral mosaic disease. Value: Some species of alyssum are medicinal plants.
Alyssum or borage, sea Lobularia, belongs to the family Brassicaceae (formerly Cruciferae), which includes about 100 species of plants growing in North Africa, Asia, and Europe.
The word "alyssum" is a Latinization of the Greek word "Alisson": "a" means "without" - negative, and "lyssa" in translation means "dog rabies". That is, apparently, in ancient times, the ash flower was somehow used to treat rabies.
The flower Alyssum has not been known in garden culture for very long, but its popularity is increasing year by year, and the reason for this is not only its inconspicuousness and ease of care but also the strong honeyed fragrance it gives off.
BOTANICAL DESCRIPTION A low-growing plant with a soil pedigree, it reaches a height of 6-16inch (15-40 cm). It has small, pubescent, oblong, or obovate leaves on strong branches, with semi-trunk-like shoots at the base.
The flowers are small, white, yellow, lilac, pink, red, or purple, in small clusters, blooming in May and leaving in late autumn.
The fruit is a pod with seeds, which can germinate for up to three years. alyssum is a honeybee, and its pungent nectar attracts bees.
Technically speaking, Alyssum and Alyssum are not the same plants, but they are close relatives and so similar that florists have combined them into one genus for simplicity.
The determination of the difference is simple: the flowers of Alyssum are pale or yellow, while the flowers of Alyssum are white, lilac, or pink.
Both perennial and annual Alyssum can be cultivated. It is used for planting pots, borders, and vases. It is often planted in open areas for camouflage after the bulbs have flowered in spring.
SEED CULTIVATION OF ALYSSUM How to sow seeds If you do not know how to grow Alyssum from seed, we would like to share our experience with you. There are two options for growing Alyssum from seeds, sprouting, and non-sprouting.
How to grow Alyssum seedless method? Sow Alyssum in the ground at a depth of 0.6inch (1.5cm) in early May and thin the seedlings when a continuous blanket of shoots appears.
However, if Alyssum is sown in spring, flowering will be late. You can sow the seeds in November - in the winter they will pass through natural stratification and in the spring you will get strong and healthy seedlings, which will flower on time.
SEEDLING CARE But many florists prefer all the same methods of seedling propagation, and it is not in vain, it is more reliable and rarely has unpleasant surprises.
Before sowing seedlings in March-April, buy a light nutrient soil with a low lime content (pH 5.5-6.2), put it in the nursery box, then scatter the seeds on the surface of the soil, not too densely, slightly sprinkled with the same soil mixture, although you can leave it out and press the seeds directly on the surface.
If you create good light, greenhouse conditions for the seeds, covered with glass or aluminum foil, at 50-59°F (10-15°C), with moderate humidity and ventilation, expect the seeds to germinate in about a week.
Fertilize the seedlings with a compound fertilizer as soon as they develop their first true leaves. Wait until the seedlings have grown 2-3 true leaves before inserting them into their own pots, but if the seedlings grow quickly, you do not need to set them aside and can plant them directly into the soil.
ALYSSUM IS GROWN IN THE OPEN GROUND When to plant Planting flowers Alyssum in the open ground is carried out in late May or early June when there is no longer any fear of returning frost.
Choose a sunny site, the soil for Alyssum is dry, well-drained, rich in humus, the neutral reaction is desirable, although it is desirable and slightly alkaline, but also slightly acidic. Alyssum grows beautifully between sun-heated slabs or stones.
HOW TO GROW ALYSSUM To plant Alyssum in the ground, consider that these flowers quickly grow wide, which means planting them at a distance of about 16inch (40cm) from each other, although it all depends on the type and variety of Alyssum.
The pit should be slightly larger than the rhizome, with a root ball made of soil, strongly not deepened when planting and watered full immediately after planting. When planting in beds, overgrown shrubs can be divided and planted as separate plants. alyssum blooms from seeds 6-7 weeks after germination.
CARING FOR ALYSSUM Planting conditions As you can see, planting Alyssum is a simple matter that can be done in five minutes. As simple as it is to care for, it involves watering the plant, loosening the soil, removing weeds from the site, pruning, and fertilizing.
Plants need regular watering, plenty in dry weather, otherwise, lack of moisture will drop flowers and buds. However, abundant watering is only possible if the soil is well permeable, otherwise, the water from stagnation in the roots of Alyssum will be dampened and will disappear.
How can I tell when it is time to water Alyssum? Dig 1-2inch (3-5cm) deep into the ground with a trowel and if it is dry, water it safely.
After watering you can easily remove the resulting weeds and loosen the soil between Alyssum's shrubs, but if you mulch the area in the spring after planting you will have to water and weed much less frequently, but loosening the soil and being present in the mulch is an important part of Alyssum's care as it ensures soil moisture and air permeability.
For fertilizer, nitrogen fertilizer is applied at a rate of 1 tablespoon of farmyard urea per 10 liters of water during plant growth, and a compound fertilizer is made in the soil before flowering. Fertilize as often and as much as necessary as prescribed to make the annuals bloom more easily.
Pruning alyssum Timely and proper pruning is very important for the full growth and productive flowering of Alyssum. In spring, remove the flowering stems, dead leaves, and weak, diseased branches from perennial Alyssum.
After flowering in summer, do the same again, also shortening all shoots by 2-3inch (5-8 cm) This will encourage Alyssum to flower again. In addition, bushes that have been growing in summer look a bit untidy, pruning them down will make them look compact and neat.
Pests and Diseases The most dangerous pest for Alyssum: the cruciferous flea, which is difficult to eliminate without treatment with a solution of 10 liters of water with a tablespoon of vitriol, but only adult, strong plants can be treated.
The most dangerous pests of alyssum are caterpillars, but they will help to remove the bushes injected in chamomile treatment tobacco or soap.
With prolonged flooding or insufficient water infiltration of the soil, Alyssum can develop brown rot-late blight, which affects the underground parts of the plant and the root system. In this case, treatment with copper chlorate or fungicides can be tried.
Infection of Alyssum caused by viral mosaic or powdery mildew (true or false) may occur. Treatment with an inorganic copper fungicide can eliminate powdery mildew. Also downy mildew treat with a mixture of insecticidal agents. Virus mosaic is not cured.
ALYSSUM AFTER FLOWERING How and when to collect seeds You can start collecting seeds at the end of September - the beginning of October. To do this, spread an old blanket in the yard on a dry, windless day and rub the Alyssum inflorescence with your hands on it.
Then remove the coarse debris, dry the seeds in a well-ventilated but unventilated dry room, and store them in a cloth bag until spring.
If it is too late and the seeds have fallen off, take a broom, lift the branches of Alyssum, sweep the seeds out from under the bush, clean the debris and soil, and store them as described above.
PERENNIAL ALYSSUM IN WINTER Needless to say, Alyssum's resistance to freezing is not unlimited In cold snaps below 59°F (15°C), the plant will not survive. But if your winter is not severe, cover it with dry leaves and when it snows, throw a snowdrift over it and it will survive the winter with its green leaves.
It is not recommended to prune Alyssum before winter. The pruning you do after the flowering period is enough, especially in spring when Alyssum will be pruned again.
#Alyssum #Tips #Howto #Annuals #Perennials #Ornamentals #Urban #Flower #Garden #Flowerbed #Pests #Fertilize #Soils #Watering #Pruning #Plant #Care
Author: Ms.Geneva Link: https://www.thumbgarden.com/how-to-grow-alyssum/ Source: ThumbGarden The copyright belongs to the author. For commercial reprints, please contact the author for authorization, and for non-commercial reprints, please indicate the source.
#alyssum#tips garden#annuals#perennials#ornamentals#urban#flowerbed#flower garden#flowers#gardening#Garden#thumbgarden#garden pests#fertilize#soils#watering#pruning#planting#plants#Care#garden care
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Greenhouse
1. When to take your plants outside?
This is dependent on the temperature range your plants can withstand, if you have a euphorbia who has a min temperature that is higher (about 50F) then you’re going to want to wait to take that plant out until the nighttime min temperature is in the 50s consistently. There can be nights that it will drop slightly below min temperature, but that’s okay since they are trapping heat in their enclosure which raises it slightly.
2. When to close your greenhouse?
I close my greenhouse if there is high winds, highwinds + heavy rain, heavy rain, and if the temperature drops significantly. It’s currently sprinkling outside and my “door” to my greenhouse is open because no water is going to get in without wind helping it and it is light enough that any water that gets on the soil is not enough to mess up my watering cycle.
3. When is it too hot?
During the day time it when it gets to 60/70F outside the inside of the greenhouse will get to 85/95F (it’s handy to keep a thermometer in there to know exact temps. They sell ones that connect to your phone, but they’re expensive) which can be way too hot for your plants when they’ve been inside all winter, so I typically open my greenhouse when I leave for work at 5:30am. Now that nighttime minimums are 5/10 degrees higher than my minimum plant temperatures I leave my greenhouse open all night. Soon I will take the plastic cover off and only put it back on when it rains. You can have the rain water your plants if it falls on the correct time to water your plants, but I’ve rarely had that happen.
4. Where to get a greenhouse and what one to buy
Amazon is a good spot, but any of these affordable greenhouses are very light and will need adjustments (see anchoring). The plastic can also rip quite easily, but it does well as a temporary greenhouse.
5. Shade cloth choices
There are many shade cloths to choose from, but white shade cloths are better for plants. They let in all the nice UV rays while keeping your plants cooler than a black shade cloth. Personally I would choose a woven rather than a knitted shade cloth, since knitted usually comes in a seatbelt like material and woven is some sort of plastic and won’t absorb water. There are many densitys of shade cloth (i.e. 50%, 40%, 30%, etc.) the density is just the amount of light that will be blocked by the shade cloth. If you’re only going to buy one shade cloth, buy a higher density and just slowly remove it as the weeks progress. If you buy several different densities, start with the highest you have and weekly/biweekly move down in density.
6. Choosing a spot for your greenhouse
Think about how much sun the spot is going to get. Afternoon sun is more intense and will be hotter than morning or evening sun. Morning sun “wakes up” your plants by helping them begin photosynthesis for the day and helps them follow their circadian rhythm. It’s best to find an area that will provide shade for afternoon sun and direct morning sun.
Tree proving shade
7. Anchoring your greenhouse
You will need to anchor your greenhouse with heavy duty stakes or brackets to keep it from blowing over. I have mine attached to my fence with brackets. The shelves also support more when ziptied to the frame. This year I decided to buy some aluminum screen to cover the shelves to help stabilize my smaller pots since the original shelves have quite large gaps in the wire.
8. How to adjust your plants to outside living
*please note that methods can vary from person to person*
I start by separating my plants into two groups. The first group is all of my plants that can handle very low temperatures (such as my cacti) and the second group is my higher temp plants like euphorbia and other plants that didn’t fit into my first group. Once the minimum temperature of outside consistently reaches the highest minimum temperature plant of the first group I will take out the first wave of plants. If there is any chance of frost don’t take them outside. For the first week I will keep them zipped up during nighttime and sometimes during daytime if the temps are in the 40s during day. I will check them daily for signs of stress (sun bleached leaves, brown/yellow soft, translucent), because damage can happen very fast. If they are getting too much sun even with the one shade cloth, add more shade cloth. If they are getting too hot, leave the greenhouse open or add a fan. At the end of the first week, survey how your plants have done and if they’re doing okay you can slowly open the shade cloth, but if they’re stressed leave them covered for another week. To help keep the cloth open I use clothes pins, but any clip strong enough would work. If they’re stressed once you add more sun, just make the gap for sun to get in smaller than you had previously. I remove my shade cloth in four stages.... 1. Fully covered 2. Open the doorway still keeping plants on shelves covered 3. Lift the sides, so only the “roof” is covered 4. Fully removed. Once I have gotten them to the final stage I move them to a shelf next to my greenhouse and move in the second wave of plants. When the plants are on the second shelf I use a shower curtain to protect them from the rain.
Greenhouse in stage 2
I’m sure I’m missing something, so I’ll edit this if I remember any more information.
@shutupsavannah
#plantblr#how to#plant blog#greenhouse#garden blog#succulent blog#succulents#plants#succulent#nature blog#garden#plantlife
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For Everybody
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Summary: This story is what happens when @eriknutinthispoosy wants a fic of Erik cheating and @allhailnjadaka wants some ratchet shit to take place. The First Lady is all type of outta character in this one.
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“Aww hell nah, this nigga got me 50 shades of fucked up,” Hennessy exclaimed as she watched the surveillance camera set up in Erik’s room. She never saw the point of them, but he and Charlie insisted, for security purposes. Just when she thought her idiot husband couldn’t get any stupider, he proved her wrong yet again.
“So 9 vaginas ain’t enough for him? His Braille-backed ass had to go get some random bitch from off the street? And his stupid ass brought her in our house?!” The Princess was fuming.
Her eyes widened when the mystery woman, standing at 5’10 with lean sun kissed legs and a face just as gorgeous as any of the other women in the house, walked to the middle of the room and looked directly in the camera. As if she knew it was there...as if she knew someone would be watching.
The time stamp on the recording read last Wednesday, 12:43 pm. That sneaky bastard. Wednesday was the day that all nine wives plus Little Bee wenr to brunch, catching up and bonding in sisterly fellowship. It was few and far between that they were all free at the same time and when those rare moments came they took advantage. Erik was filled in on this brunch at a few of the ladies favorite French bistro a day prior and he took advantage as well.
“Guess this nigga didn’t think we’d catch him.” Ryley’s long matte black nails tapped against the vast mahogany oak desk. She sat beside Henny as her eyes bore into the pretty face on the screen. “Bold one, she is.”
“Very bold.” Henny folded her arms and fell back into her seat. Her brows stitched together and her pouty lips were set in a thin line, emotions etched all over her face. To say she was hurt was an understatement. It hurt her so much she couldn’t produce a single tear.
“Am I not enough? Are we not enough?” her voice was soft and shaky.
“Nah, don’t even think like that sis. That nigga stupid and he gone get what’s coming to him.” A few moments later, Charlie sauntered into Henny’s office looking almost as upset as the other two women. Her usual Charming demeanor had switched to something more cold and devious.
“Henny, I love you, but y’all need to come with me.” Without question, the three women made the short trek to Ryley’s G Wagon and sped towards their shared abode. When they were a safe distance from the greenhouse, Charlie pulled up the surveillance footage on her iPhone X.
“THIS BITCH IS STILL IN MY HOUSE?!”
“I didn’t wanna tell you in your office for the sake of the plants, but yeah she’s still there and is making herself real comfortable.” They both watched as the mystery woman sauntered from room to room, touching and trying on their precious jewels and clothes. Hennessy began to see red. It had been a while since she’d gotten this upset and of course it would be Mr. Stevens-Udaku to bring her inner beast out of retirement.
“Hennessy?” Ryley questioned when she noticed the head brat had become a little too quiet for comfort. She remained silent.
“Henny?” she tried again. Silence.
“Kitana?” Charlie tried. Suddenly, the small woman turned and flashed a sly smile, her rose gold fronts gleaming in the twilight. Her usually happy, doe eyes and turned an eerie black and her whole face was turned into an evil grimace.
“Aww shit!” Ryley and Charlie exclaimed in unison.
--
“N’Jadaka! Bring your crusty ass out here!” Kitana screamed as she, Ryley, and Charlie walked back into The Kompound.
“Wait, what we miss?” Angel questioned, confusion etched all over her face. She and Little Bee were seated on the couch, Princess Nya bouncing happily between them. Kimora and Josephine were in the kitchen baking, while Homie sat comfortably on the counter acting as taste tester. Per usual, Aly’Sha was in her room, probably tired from football practice.
“Mr. Stevens-Udaku isn’t available right now,” the mystery woman called from the grand staircase. “However, I’ll be more than happy to answer whatever questions you may have.”
Everything was silent as all eyes fell on her.
“Ericka,” Kitana snarled.
“Nice to meet you in person, Kitana, I’ve heard so much about you.”
As the two exchanged looks, Kimora emerged from the kitchen.
“I’m glad y’all know of each other and whatnot, but who are you and why you in our house?”
“I’m the woman who just fucked y’all husband. Now since there’s so many of you I’m not sure whose room it was but it was real nice. I was thinking of doing some wandering since Daddy is asleep.”
“Bitch I swear to Jesus, Mary, Joseph and Bast herself, I will drag yo rusty, dusty, crusty, broke back, uneven frontal headass down this entire gahdamn hallway. And trust me, there's a lot of fucking hallway in this big ass house.” Josephine perked up at her tone.
“Aww shit, Demon Henny, yeee!” As the rest of the harem attempted to understand what was going on downstairs, Aly’Sha had heard just enough to take matters into her own hands in regards to the punishment of their husband.
“Aye Nigga! Wake the fuck up!” Aly’sha growled as she shot a hollow point 9mm bullet on the headboard above their husband, who she affectionately referred to as a beginners tutorial for the blind. Her voice echoed from the enormous room. Guess she wasn't too tired from practice.
“Aly'sha…” The beast growled, sitting up slowly. “What the fuck is the matter with you?”
“NAH WHAT THE ABSOLUTE DUMB NIGGA FUCK IS WRONG WITH YOU!?” Another bullet whizzed past Erik's head and for the first time in a long while, he flinched.
“ALY’SHA I GOT IT!” the small woman screamed upstairs. “I just gotta take care of this bitch first.”
Grumbling to herself, Aly’sha exited the room, putting the gun back in the waist of her shorts. This nigga was really about to die die.
“That must be your little errand girl, hmm?” Erika hissed a giggled as she watched the rage in Kitana’s eyes grow.
Upon hearing all the commotion from her studio, Bastion emerges in her Moschino sweatsuit and fluffy mink slides.
“What in the Christian Louboutin is going on in here?”
“Don’t worry about it babygirl, go back to work. Mama’s just gotta take out some trash.”
“Oh well that means I must stay. That’s one of my specialities. Now who is this woman, why is she in my house and why are there gunshots being fired? I thought we weren't doing firearms in the house after the last time I got too drunk.”
“Because your husband is an idiotic dipshit.” Aly'sha growled, standing behind Kitana as if she was one of Charlie's angels.
“Well I knew that when I married him, but Harpo who dis woman?”
“A dead bitch,” Kitana hissed as she wielded the katana blade that was hidden in the intricately carved bracelet on her wrist. A birthday present from Shuri.
“Has she always had that?” Homie inquired.
“I don’t think I wanna find out,” Kristina said as she carried little Nya away from all of the commotion.
“Care to give me the information on her astronomical indiscretion?” Bastion inquires with a perfectly orchestrated eyebrow raised.
“It’s simple really,” Ericka began to explain. “While the cats were away, Daddy Jaguar decided to play. And who am I to deny the Prince of Wakanda?”
“As I said before, A dead bitch.” Kitana twirling the blade between her nimble fingers as she stared Erika down.
“I’m sorry let me see if I can comprehend this simpleton’s language. So you’re telling me that my husband, who has a plethora of pussy to use and abuse at his discretion, was intimate with you? Of his own free will? As though he wasn’t just shot at for not giving his last wife enough attention? He fucked you freely? Ha! Ok my darling please have yourself admitted to the nearest psychiatric ward. I’ll even recommend a wonderful therapist and even better medication. My mother knows them well.”
Ericka stared her, grin wide as ever but not quite making it to her eyes. They were steely, dark and deep. She’d seen and experienced a lot. It was in the way she moved…spoke. “You’re so entertaining, no wonder he stopped at you. You were the icing on the spoiled ass cake, huh?” She let out a chuckle. “Pipe down, little bitch, before I make you. I’m here to speak with the real wife, the first lady. All you other hoes sit down and watch me defeat your beloved head Princess Hennessy Chiron.”
Her eyes moved back to Kitana, looking over her frame before she met her fiery gaze.
“Let me give you the play by play. First, I took a seat on my new throne, you know those lips you love? Made him hit it from the back then from the side. Asked him what’s your favorite position and then made him look in my eyes while I took all that dick. He promised to make me wifey number twelve.”
Slice. The blade moved so fast no one could process the action. Ericka’s pink peplum blouse was now in shreds at her feet and blood oozed from the long cut across her chest. Before she could react, Kitana had the blade above her head and was bringing it down again, this time digging it into the flesh of her abdomen.
“I’m glad you enjoyed that dick because that’s the last one you’ll ever hop on,” Kitana snarled as she threw her blade down and went straight for Ericka’s neck. What she lacked in height, the small woman definitely made up for in brute strength and speed.
“Damn, she really is the female Erik,” Kimora noted as the two women wrestled in the foyer. Though Henny was much shorter than Ericka, she easily overpowered the outsider.
“No one can dethrone me, bitch,” Hennessy snarled with a sharp jab to Ericka’s face.
Ericka growled, her whole body throbbing. First it was the wound to her chest, causing pain to spread through her body like wildfire. Her tolerance was higher than many. She should’ve been on the floor begging for mercy. Her mission, however, was not done.
“I-I did you one better.” She spoke softly, low but audible enough for Kitana to hear. The venom in her bite had disappeared. “There’s a crack in your foundation. You’re relationship isn’t as perfect as you thought it was. N’Jadaka found ten wives after you and still can’t be loyal. I can’t take your spot but my actions will make you want to give it up.”
Just then the blade appeared from the small of Erika’s back, piercing a few vital organs and killing her instantly. The princess removed her blade and headed for the staircase. The wrath of Hennessy Monaé Chiron Stevens-Udaku had only just begun.
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TAG LIST: @vibranium-soul @imagine-mbaku @mareethequeen @greennightspider @hearteyes-for-killmonger @blackpantherismyish @muse-of-mbaku @thehomierobbstark @wifeyofnjadaka @youreadthatright @tgigoldie @killmongersgurl @dameshaemonique @princessstevens @princesskillmonger @amethyst1993 @iamrheaspeaks @laketaj24 @bidibidibombaclaat @whatmoredoyouwantamericaa @forbeautyandlife @yaachtynoboat711 @panthergoddessbast @inlovewithmakeupcomicsanimelove @dacreskars @thadelightfulone @drsunshine97 @wakanda-inspired @wawakanda-btch @hold-me-like-a-heart-beat @ayellepea @awkwardlyabstract @madamslayyy @blowmymbackout @vikkidc @champagnesugamama @sociallyawkward18 @chasingsunlight @dabluestsky @trevantesbrat @itsangeludaku
#hennessy chiron#my shit#the kompound#erik x henny#erik killmonger#erik stevens#the household#poly!erik
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Drarropoly 2018: Prompt List
Here is the complete prompt list for the game! If you decide to use any of these, please tag us and add them to the ao3 collection by February 1, 2019.
Thanks again to the following artists for graciously allowing us to use their work on the game board: @lettersbyelise @mzuul @jackofallplagues @fantom-ftnoise@julcheninred @keyflight790 @slowestdive @hp-rbiim [High res of the game board here]
View the prompts below the cut!
GO! Platform 9 3/4
Fic: 200 words - Drarry + Hols + either 1) Vacations -OR- 2) New Beginnings -OR- 3) Lost Luggage
Art: Drarry + Holidays/Vacations/New Beginnings/or Lost Luggage + Under the Sun/or Moon
THE LEAKY CAULDRON
Fic: This was a round robin dialogue exercise - to adapt it, use dialogue only: Drarry + a group of other people + Drinking
Art: Drarry + a public place + Body Only: Draw the pair in a scene without their faces showing
SLUG & JIGGERS APOTHECARY
Fic: Harry has a need for a special potion. Minimum: 49 Maximum: 499
Art: Using only cool colors + Drarry + special potions
ENCHANTED CHEST OF TREASURES 1 & 2
1: writer's choice of word count under 699
2: writer's choice of word count under 899
Fic Prompts:
2. Draco is gifted an elixir from a famed Potions Master from South America, but he doesn't translate the name properly before taking it.
3. Harry finds a special locket in an old wizard antique shop, but he's not quite prepared for what it does to him.
4. Draco helps Harry explore the attics of Grimmauld Place, which are full of ancient relics and strange magical objects.
5. Harry finds a photo of his parents together at a beautiful, scenic location. He wants to recreate the photo. One problem: he doesn't have a significant other.
6. Draco or Harry stumbles upon a rare One-Use Time Turner that can send you back in time five minutes. He uses it to either 1) save the other's life or 2) redo a particularly awkward or misconstrued conversation.
7. Draco and Harry use a set of Two-Way Mirrors to keep in contact when they're apart.
8. Draco and Harry have discovered a new enchanted mirror. Pick either: 1) The Mirror of Acitore (Acitore = Erotica backwards) OR 2) a window to another reality OR 3) A reflection of the future
9. Drarry separately uncover a Black family artifact set that leaves them somehow bonded together.
10. Harry and Draco get stuck in the Room of Requirement. It gives them just what they need.
11. Harry enjoys a moment when Draco has to use Muggle technology
12. One of them finds a magical compass that points to their soulmate.
Art Prompts:
2. Drarry posing for photograph/portrait 3. Drarry giving/receiving gifts 4. Drarry finding ancient relics in Grimmauld Place 5. Harry recreating an image of his parents at a special location with Draco 6. Drarry in a historical era other than their own 7. Draco and Harry use a set of Two-Way Mirrors to keep in contact when they're apart. 8. Harry and Draco discover an enchanted mirror that shows their future selves in twenty five years 9. Draco convinces Harry to take part in a Pureblood Tradition 10. Draw Drarry as a Tarot Card https://labyrinthos.co/blogs/tarot-card-meanings-list 11. Harry enjoys a moment when Draco has to use Muggle technology 12. One of them finds a magical compass that points to their soulmate.
TRAVEL BY BROOM
Fic: 200 Words - Drarry on Brooms - Pick either 1) For Work OR 2) For Play
Art: Drarry + brooms + either 1) the night sky -or- 2) Quidditch backdrop
FLOURISH & BLOTTS
Fic: "I could read for you if you want." - Minimum: 118 Maximum: 481
Art: Drarry + ink stains + black & white only
THE TIME TURNER
Fic: Choose a scene from the books and rewrite it differently - 999 words or less
Art: Illustrate a scene from the books happening differently
MADAM MALKIN'S ROBES FOR ALL OCCASIONS
Fic: Description Only (No Dialogue): seeing the other in a new item of clothing for the first time - Minimum: One Sentence Maximum: 299 words
Art: Seeing the other in a new item of clothing for the first time - using red monochromatic colours.
THE GREAT HALL
Fic: Pick One: 1) "There's a troll in the dungeons!" - "Ugh, again?" OR 2) Bringing the other food when they are sick/forgot to eat OR 3) "The ceiling's never done *that* before." - Minimum: 76 Maximum: 677
Art: Draw: Pick one: 1) Drarry before the Welcome Feast -or- 2) Drarry during the Welcoming Feast -or- 3) Drarry after the Welcome Feast
THE GREENHOUSE
Fic: Pick One: 1) Drarry + Recreational Drug Use OR 2) "Trim the hedges." OR 3) Someone has allergies - Minimum: 42 Maximum: 420
Art: Drarry + nature + using only green monochromatic colours
THE POTIONS CLASSROOM
Fic: Harry and Draco are lab partners and are stuck making a complex and intimidating potion. Please include either 1) The Potion Recipe as they follow it OR 2) the two of them taking the potion and the effects (May include both if you desire, mind the word count) Minimum: 99 words Maximum: 999
Art: Drarry as the complete opposite of themselves - using cool analogous colours
THE HOGWARTS EXPRESS
Fic: 200 Words - Drarry returning to Hogwarts by train - Pick either: 1) "I didn't expect to see you here." OR 2) "This year will be different."
Art: From the outside looking in: Drarry + behind the glass - black + white only
FELIX FELICIS 1 & 2
Writer’s choice
1: odd roll 204 words - even roll 402
2: even roll 349 words - odd roll 399 words
Artist’s choice
1: Drarry Hogwart's Era
2: Drarry over 50
THE CHARMS CORRIDOR
Fic: Not Established Relationship + either 1) Forced Proximity or 2) Fake Dating - Minimum: 31 Maximum: 531
Art: Drarry + in the style of a video game
HOSPITAL WING
Fic: Not Established Relationship + Hurt/Comfort - Minimum: 49 words Maximum: 849
Art: Drarry + black & blue
DAILY PROPHET - FREE WRITE
Fic: Epistolary - Write a piece featured in either: 1) The Daily Prophet OR 2) The Quibbler OR 3) Witch Weekly - 499 words or less
Art: Draw a cover story for either 1) The Daily Prophet -or- 2) The Quibbler -or- 3) Witch Weekly
THE THREE BROOMSTICKS
Fic: Drarry + Liquid Courage/Confessions - Minimum: 49 Maximum: 449
Art: Drarry + Hogsmeade - warm analogous colours
HONEYDUKES
Fic: Pick One: 1) "I've never tasted anything this delicious in my entire life." 2) Drarry + Secret Admirer 3) Drarry + Chocolate - Minimum: 99 words Maximum: 999
Art: Drarry +pure fluff - using pastel colours
APPARITION
Fic: Move to any spot on the board and use that prompt but complete it in exactly 200 words
Art: Move to any spot on the board and use that prompt but complete it in black and white
THE FORBIDDEN FOREST
Fic: "I can feel it in the air tonight." - Pick either: 1) Magical Creatures OR 2) Detention OR 3) The Return of Something Dark - Minimum: 184 Maximum: 841
Art: Drarry as the complete opposite of themselves - using cool analogous colours
THE RESURRECTION STONE
Fic: Bring back one Canon-Deceased Character for a conversation. 501 words or less.
Art: Bring back one Canon-Deceased Character in black and white - the rest of the piece should be in colour
THE SHRIEKING SHACK
Fic: Drarry + Abandoned Places - Pick either: 1) Finding Treasure OR 2) Spoiler Alert: It's not really abandoned - Minimum: 129 Maximum: 291
Art: Drarry + a recognisable silhouette
AZKA-DAMN
Prompt based on roll - Minimum: 69 Maximum: 690
Fic Prompts:
Drarry + "There's something new I'd like to try."
Voyeurism
Drarry + First Times
"Not on the bed!" -or- "Bed. Now."
Drarry + Tempers
"If only you knew what you've brought upon yourself."
Drarry + Hairpulling
"I put this on just for you."
"Did I say that out loud?"
"Whatever will we do to pass the time?"
Drarry + Anniversaries
Art Prompts:
Drarry + guilty
Voyeurism in shades of grey
Drarry + a first time
Drarry + unusual furniture
Drarry + submission
Drarry: "You brought this on yourself."
Drarry + Hairpulling
"I put this on just for you."
Drarry + Embarrassed
Drarry + boredom
Drarry + celebrating
MINISTRY OF MAGIC
Fic: Draco or Harry either 1) a private citizen dealing with forms and long lines OR 2) Auror paperwork OR 3) “The following information is exclusive to the Department of Mysteries. Discretion is advised.” - Minimum: 107 words Maximum: 707
Art: Drarry, at some point in the work day
ST. MUNGO'S
Fic: Drarry + An Injury of either 1) very little magnitude -or- 2) great severity - Minimum: 31 words Maximum: 310 words
Art: Drarry + An Injury of either 1) very little magnitude -or- 2) great severity
FLOO
Fic: 200 Words - Drarry + the Floo Network - Pick either: 1) Emergency Call OR 2) “How did you know where I live?” OR 3) “Seriously? It’s midnight."
Art: Drarry + unannounced - using Black and White only
BONUS FLOO
Fic: 489 to 563 words - DRARRY + why is the sword of Gryffindor on the ceiling
Art: in comic book style - the discovery of the sword on the ceiling OR the moment it gets on the ceiling - comic panels are encouraged but not required (3-panel max)
MALFOY MANOR
Fic: Drarry + Opposing Sides - Minimum: 70 words Maximum: 701 words
Art: Drarry + opposite sides + using only two complimentary colours
12 GRIMMAULD PLACE
Fic: Drarry + Dreams - Pick either: 1) Nightmares OR 2) Visions OR 3) Erotic Dreams - Minimum: 50 words Maximum: 500
Art: Drarry + Dreaming
GODRIC'S HOLLOW
Fic: Drarry + Family - Pick either: 1) Family Dinner OR 2) Meeting the family for the first time OR 3) "Surprise! We got married." - Minimum: 81 Maximum: 810
Art: Drarry + what family means to them
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Oax to Mex
Bus service in Mexico is extensive, and cheap. There are local buses to every little hill town, conditions deteriorating the further out one goes, but they get there. For me to take a 1st class bus(AC, bathroom, reclining seats,movie"Kong vs Godzilla", )and non stop on good freeways, cost $10 an hour, or $60 total. As it was public holiday, the bus was full, and I,m glad I took Marus advice and booked well ahead.
Oaxaca city is sprawling, and we hauled through roadside development for an hour before leaving the suburbs. While the valley has been totally deforested, there are lots of trees high up on the surrounding hill tops. Up out of the valley the land becomes dry and barren, rocky eroded hillsides, arroyos ripped by rain into hoodoos, and only Yucca and stray agave among the broken rock. It's green /grey, desolate. No houses, no farms no nada for miles.
That drought plagued area gradually changes with elevation, and short scrub fills the gulleys, and in places some one has planted pine trees with limited success. Long needle pine and eucalyptus, alternate with tall cactus. After 2 hours the land though still dry had some deep enough gulleys to support shrubs. Up, up ,up into the highlands and more temperate conditions. Every flat spot had been planted to seasonal corn, long since harvested. Cement box homes perched above gullys in the scorching sun. A few crumbling adobes showed where someone had tried to live.
Finally we crested the hills and entered what became the high inland valley leading to Pueblo and MEX. Now there were flat fields, very flat, plowed by tractors and then hilled by one horse plows. thouands(millions ?) of acres most bare , but many still bearing cabbage. onions,and squash, being hand picked by teams of workers. Deep ditches showed how much rain does fall. All the fields were lined with miles of drip irrigation, and many greenhouses or shade cloth shielded frames had the more delicate plants. That huge flat valley. Was it once a lake? Old paintings of Mexico city show large lakes. I'd wondered how they fed so many people and now I see, extensive intensive agriculture.
By hour 5 we were in Pueblo, a huge sprawl, and never left suburbia, although some small fields still popped up among the cement , mostly corn for domestic use. All the highways are toll roads, so there are no funky trucks or motorcycles , and the smooth ride is easy.
I had intially planned on taking the 9:30 bus bur opted for the nicer 10 am. We caught up with the early bus. First I saw a steel guardrail peeled backover in a twisted curl over a 40 foot length, then the ambulance beside the bus. No bodys, but the right front of the bus was smushed back. A couple of more buses were standing by to take the passengers away, but that was delayed. We swept past.
The 6 hour trip took 7, but was smooth and acceptable. City traffic snarled us up, it being a public holiday, and we stop/started in clogged streets. Finally bumped in to TAPO, the massive bus station,and gladly disembarked. My extra bag(where did that come from? Tapetes) was there and I made my way into the station crowds. Got a fixed price "secure" taxi ticket but was told there was a half hour wait for cabs, so I hit the food court and bought a chicken sub to eat in line. Actually one and a half hour wait, gratefull to have food and drink. 200 pesos and the cab had GPs so found my cheapo hotel. The Pension Zocalo is actually a big old hotel chopped up into small rooms, cheap at 250 pesos(shared bath, towel and hot water, fine wi-fi, and a mattress from the 50,s totally bagged. So tired i slept anyway. I cancelled lunch with Maru, moving it to Friday.
Woke to 4+ lanes of traffic outside my second story window, vendors shouting and food stands being set up. I went to the drug store for rehydrating liquids and water from a 7/11. then a chicken taco (10 pesos and good ) for breakfast. There's always food somewhere in Mexico!
Walked into El centro passing my next hotel(Isabel) and on to the commercial district. Same goods, fancy stores,pedestrian walkways. Always on the lookout for patio/ museums i somehow entered the Banamex building, for a tour of their collection of paintings, some with massive gold leafed wooden carved frames, more impressive than the pictures of old Pedro the dead president, or his overdressed wife, old boardroom,and displays of money(no free samples). I was accompanied room to room by guards. On to the Bank of Mexico in a beautiful old stone building, through an xray check, and saw a huge collection of world coins, banknotes, and lame interactive displays. i did like the cabinet that showed how banknotes a re designed and printed, vast blocks of 100's, and cart loads of new money. Still no samples,lot of guards. Were those 2 gold bricks real, 50 pounds of gold.
Finally made it to the Alameda park, and some welcome relief from traffic and noise. It's a pretty civilized couple of square blocks, but fountains and trees line the paths and more butt buster iron benches are everywhere. The Jacaranda trees a re in full bloom, clouds of dee purple , and the ground is covered delicate tubular blossoms. No bums, few panhandlers, mostly locals and a few tourists like me looking at maps. Had an ice cream, and got bold enough to try getting back to the hotel by subway(Metro). Bit grubby and ill lit, but once I got through the turnstiles and asked several cops for instructions i got the right train and 2 stops later came up where i wanted to be. My internal compass still works and I was able to find the hotel, stopping only to buy a cheap connector adaptor for my phone and computer.
Hot shower, washed shirts, socks and underwear, a short rest, then it's
out for dinner takeout. Tommorrow i move to the better hotel(private bath, balcony, restuarant). More as it happens from the biggest city in the world!
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What is the difference between standard shade net and reflective shade net?
What is the difference between standard shade net and reflective shade net?
Standard shade net is an affordable, extremely durable means of protecting plants and crops from direct sunlight. A shade net is placed on the exterior roof of a greenhouse, cold frame, or high tunnel where it blocks a percentage of light from penetrating the building, hence keeping plants more comfortable. This type of shade material is appropriate for general gardening, farming, and greenhouse applications and is widely used in the commercial farming and gardening industry.
Which shade material should I use?
You can use shad net material according to your crop. Those shade material helps protect livestock, pets, plants, and people from direct sunlight and also works well as a privacy barrier or windscreen. Experience has shown that growers use mostly 50% to 75% density, with the high densities of 70% to 95% used in southern states and for light-sensitive plants in northern states.
Many people find that using a high-density shade on roofs and a lower-density shade on walls is a good method for creating ideal shade conditions. Vegetable gardeners should check with their local University Agricultural Extension office to determine the shade cloth density that is appropriate for both the climate and plant variety.
What does the shade percentage mean in relation to the shade material?
Shade density is determined by the percentage of light blocked by the shade. For example, the definition of 75% shade is that only 25% of light passes through it. A shade percentage of 30 to 75% is ideal for vegetables, while 90 to 95% is ideal for protecting people.
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Innovative Greenhouses In India Help Farmers Adapt To Climate Change
CONTENT SOURCED FROM NATGEO
In India, a simple greenhouse is transforming lives—creating jobs for women and arming growers against unpredictable weather.
Yadav Bhavanth grows vegetables on family land in the south-central Indian state of Telangana. On this small farm in a drought-prone region, his crop production—and income—depend heavily on seasonal rainfall.
In 2015 and 2016, water shortages threatened his crops. And when the rains came, they were often so heavy that they damaged even the hardier plants, causing disease or infestation.
Some of the extreme weather patterns can be attributed to climate change. As global temperatures increase, extended periods of drought, heat waves, and unpredictable rainfall have intensified. The crop losses and mounting debt carry a human toll: More than 3,000 farmers committed suicide in Telangana during a three-year drought. (Learn more about this problem across India)
But 2017 was different for Yadav. The 37-year-old farmer began using a greenhouse to conserve water and protect crops from harsh downpours. Instead of trapping heat, these greenhouses are made with breathable, aluminum-coated cloth netting that reflects some of the sunlight, reducing inside temperatures. The greenhouses are also fitted with drip-irrigation systems that allow farmers to use an average of 90 percent less water than their neighbors.
Bhavanth and wife Bujji, 32, tend tomatoes. The couple was part of pilot program for greenhouse cultivation.
“Outside, we are not as sure whether the crops will dry up—there is no guarantee,” Yadav says. “Inside [the greenhouse], the plants grow very fast,” he adds. “The [produce] quantity and quality is also the best.”
Venkatesh Appala, 45, grows bell peppers in Laxmapur. He started his greenhouse operation in January 2017, and estimates a profit of 46,000 rupees (just over $700) in his first year. He's using the extra income to save for his daughter's dowry, which can run up to $10,000.
GRASSROOTS GREENHOUSES
Yadav purchased his greenhouse for $2,500 from Kheyti, an Indian non-profit that is developing the structures and facilitating loans to buy them—through a program aimed at helping small farms adapt to climate change.
Greenhouses have long been used in India for commercial flower and vegetable production, but standard designs are too large and expensive for farmers like Yadav. Kheyti has created several scaled-down versions that range from 258 to 553 square yards, an area that takes up just two to five percent of a typical small farm there. The size reduces the investment risk—farmers are still able to grow other crops on the rest of their land.
Vikram Bhavanth, 13, peers through the family's greenhouse. Kheyti collaborated with engineering students at Northwestern University and Stanford University’s Design for Extreme Affordability course to develop a prototype. After multiple iterations, they settled on a metal-frame structure with an overlay of shade netting and insect-proof netting on the sides.
Kheyti’s greenhouse costs a fraction of the $30,000-plus for a conventional half-acre greenhouse. Yet because many farmers still wouldn’t be able to afford $2,500, Kheyti works with banks to get loans on the farmers' behalf, says cofounder Saumya (she doesn’t use a surname). She started the project with support from the Institute for Sustainability and Energy at Northwestern University.
Kheyti recently partnered with the Bank of Baroda, India's second largest bank, to broaden the reach of the program. Participating farmers make a down payment of 30,000 rupees [$471 dollars] and then installments of 15,000 rupees [$233 dollars] after each growing season, typically every three months, until the greenhouse is paid off.
Some farmers have used the funds from greenhouse production to further the education of their children.
The 15 farmers who piloted the Kheyti greenhouse program have just finished their first year, growing cucumbers for three and a half months and bell peppers for eight months. Most were able to produce between five and eight times more within the greenhouse. Some used the income to advance their children’s education.
“We are able to produce inside the greenhouse [258 square yards] what we are producing outside in an acre [4,840 square yards],” said Narayana Yellabonia, one of Kheyti’s first farmers. “School has started, so the money has helped out with that.”
One of Yadav Bhavanth’s relatives, Biki Malavath holds her great-granddaughter, nicknamed Milky, the youngest member of Laxmapur Thanda. The village is home to the Lambadi people, a "scheduled tribe"—defined as one of India's marginalized and socioeconomically disadvantaged communities.
Inspired by the success, there are now 50 farmers growing with Kheyti in Yadav's village, Laxmapur, and in nearby Narayanpur, and the initiative has expanded into a neighboring state. Working with the Society for Elimination of Rural Poverty (SERP), Kheyti will reach 1,000 low-income female farmers in Andhra Pradesh. SERP, a joint venture between the World Bank and the state government, will help Kheyti identify participants, provide loans, and fund training programs. These participants would make a down-payment of only 10,000 rupees [$154 dollars] to qualify for the loan. Kheyti launched the program with the first 50 farmers earlier this year.
Kheyti’s leaders hope to expand throughout India, but they’re taking it slow. “We are very proud of the culture we have built, but we don’t want to have that lost when we scale,” says cofounder Sathya Raghu Mokkapati.
A farmer tends a greenhouse in Depalle, a village about 75 kilometers southwest of Hyderabad. The village is a research and development station for Kheyti, a nonprofit group helping India's small-scale farms adapt to climate change.
CONTINUE READING THIS AMAZING STORY ON NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM
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Fall Gardening In Focus: A Straightforward Primer
Fall can be a rewarding time to grow your own food. Cooler temperatures make it easier to work outdoors and leafy greens get sweeter in cold spells. In warmer winter climates it’s even possible to squeeze in a few summer crops and get some modest autumn production from them. Yet as the season stretches onward and day length wanes, plants are no longer growing under ideal conditions and challenges from pests and inclement weather inevitably emerge. This primer is aimed at getting you growing food as quickly as possible in the autumn, recommends a few tools and some equipment to extend your growing season in the late season, and addresses a few common garden pests and problems.
Growing Methods
Containers? Raised beds? Rooftops? Or just plain ‘ol in the ground…
A lot of plant cultivation techniques are the same, regardless of where you grow. Containers have limitations because some plants produce substantial root systems that fill up your available soil area fast. Long season crops such as cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower, deep rooted crops like chards and beets, and even leafy greens such as collards and kale are not ideal for containers. With that said, if you have and maintain adequate soil fertility, root area, and a consistent watering regime for your plants, you will have success no matter what your growing style.
When To Plant
The following chart lists what crops are can (and can’t!) be planted for fall growing along with recommended planting months. If you want to focus on the easiest crops, look for what’s color coded green. This list is substantial because we’ve included crops that theoretically could be planted in warmer winter climates like ours. Pretty much avoid growing any crops color coded red, unless you’re in for an adventure and have a tolerance for a lot of failure. Lastly, a quick spoiler: August is the most ideal planting month for all major vegetable crops.
How to Plant
Unless you have a relatively weed free soil, starting your seeds in seedling trays in a protected area such as a greenhouse or shade house can be a great way to get plants started ahead of time. For those unfamiliar with what certain seedlings look like, this can also be a great learning experience as you will see your seeds emerge in isolation from potential weeds.
Take note, however: root crops must be direct seeded. For example, carrots are a crop that absolutely must be direct seeded. Last year we experimented with transplanting some of the most productive carrot varieties on the market. They took well to the ground, but when harvest time came the roots were nearly universally twisted and and stunted.
Use specific planting instructions such as planting depth and days to germination to guide your seed starting. One thing holds pretty universal: keep seeds evenly moist throughout their germination period and during the earliest stages of their life. That’s when they are the most precarious and need the most attention.
If you are late starting plants from seed, consider heading to your local nursery to pick up some seedlings to make up for lost time. Seedlings at a nursery already have about two or three weeks of growth.
Some Useful Tools
Garden beds can be created and maintained in a number of ways, so a lot of the tools you use are a matter of personal preference.
Digging fork: one of the most useful and perhaps underestimated garden tools. We use this tool more than a shovel; a properly irrigated soil and digging fork can turn bare ground to garden beds in no time. This tool is also as effective as a shovel for harvesting root and tuber crops such as potatoes and sweet potatoes. The Radius Garden 20308 PRO Ergonomic Stainless Steel Digging Fork is a solid choice for its durability and ergonomics. If you are looking for a more classical design, we’ve also used the Spear & Jackson R410 English Style Heritage Forged Digging Fork, but be careful to not push this one too far because wooden handles can break under rock excavation that inevitably comes when using a digging fork. On the flip side, we’ve bent tines on the Radius digging fork before, so be sure to understand that every tool has its limits.
Long handed digging shovel: Pretty much your basic shovel for digging holes, removing rocks, and doing cultivation that a digging fork doesn’t allow. The Fiskars Long Handle Round Point Steel Digging Shovel is a great modern version of this tool. Its durable all-metal design is especially useful for rock excavation; just remember though, every tool has its limits. We’ve actually broken one of these trying to remove a large, deeply embedded rock.
Bow rake: great for removing small debris and final garden bed shaping – especially critical if you are direct seeding small seeded crops such as carrots and lettuce. We recommend the Seymour 17" Bow Rake.
CobraHead Weeder: an extremely versatile tool used for removing both surface and deeply rooted weeds and amending beds with fertilizer.
Grub hoe/eye hoe: great for removing large debris and weeds prior to preparing your soil for digging; can also help break up large clods of dirt. We recommend this SHW 5.5″ Grub Hoe from The Tool Merchants.
Square Point Transfer Shovel: a flat shovel used for creating and shaping raised garden beds. We recommend the Fiskars Ergo D-handle Steel Transfer Shovel. It’s inexpensive and its all metal design makes it extremely durable.
Fertility
Most soils require some form of nutrient amendment for proper vegetable growth. Adequate soil fertility is especially important in the autumn season, as once it gets colder, plants take up soil nutrients less efficiently. Inadequate soil fertility can lead to stressed plants, opening them up to greater predation, stunted growth, and in many cases, total crop failure.
The macro-nutrients every major vegetable crop requires are Nitrogen (N), Potassium (P), and Phosphorous(K). Any fertilizer purchased or sourced at a garden store will have NPK values. These reflect the percentage by weight of each nutrient included in the fertilizer. To determine the nutrients available in a given fertilizer, multiply one value of the fertilizer by its weight. For example, a 50 pound bag of fertilizer with a 10-10-10 NPK listing has 10% of each of these nutrients by weight.
Fertilizer application is an imprecise art for most of us. If you know your soil, you probably know just what to add. If you're unsure what you’re dealing with, amend plants modestly, observe and if plants seem like they are stunted, add more later. An easy to use store bought fertilizer is Down to Earth's All Purpose 4-6-2.
Something else to consider: organic fertilizers tend to break down slowly and provide a sustained amount of fertility throughout the season. However, if soil fertility is initially very poor, consider a faster releasing fertilizer, such as a liquid kelp (typically a water spray applied directly on the plants in cooler, overcast weather or toward dusk) or a blood meal. Fertilizer application is an imprecise art for most of us. If you know your soil, you probably know just what to add. If you are unsure what you’re dealing with, amend plants modestly.
Also consider side-dressing. Essentially, this means giving plants an additional dose of fertilizer halfway through their growing cycle. If you are applying fertilizer mid season, take note of a few things: organic fertilizers must make contact underneath the soil surface as they are not directly available to the plants: they must first go through the soil cycle whereby they are consumed by microorganisms that in turn make the nutrients available to plants. Apply fertilizer around the base of the plant and gently scratch it in using a tool such as the CobraHead weeder (discussed below). Do not scratch deeply as you may end up distributing or uprooting plants.
For those more interested in the topic of soil and fertility, we recommend the book Teeming With Microbes: A Gardener’s Guide to the Soil Food Web as a great entry level into the topic.
Season Extension
From June until through the winter solstice (typically around December 20th or 21st), most areas in the Northern Hempisphere lose about two minutes of daylength per day (for more precise information, consult the Navy’s daylight calendar). This means fall gardening is not only a colder but darker endeavor.
A great way to give your vegetables a little more time to grow in the autumn is to protect them from the cold months of October and November. Even modest cold protection goes a long way and also provides your plants refuge from some (but not all) common garden pests and even larger animals such as deer. Cold frames made of glass or heavy duty are a ubiquitous, and if you have a greenhouse you can also grow inside of it for the cold months, but for many these options are too expensive and laborious to set up – especially if you are getting a late start.
One inexpensive method are QuickHoops Low Tunnel Benders, which is a tool set that allows you to bend inexpensive electrical conduit available at any hardware store into the basis of a cold frame. You can place these frames about four feet apart along your garden bed and then cover them with a light frost cloth, such as agribon which is also inexpensive. Definitely invest in some method to anchor down the frost cloth to the ground once you are set up. Sand bags and sand work are an inexpensive option.Your bill of materials will run approximately $100-$150, but consider this: the hoops can be retrofitter with shade cloth in the summer to make it easier to grow cooler season crops such as lettuce.
If you live in a warmer winter climate, this will help take your fall crops all the way through winter. If you live in a colder winter climate, this hoop house will not protect your crops from extreme cold, frost, and snow, but it may give you a few additional weeks of leafy greens.
Fall Garden Pests and Some Helpful Organic Solutions
Anyone who gardens organically or with low inputs has experienced plants becoming infested with aphids, eaten up by flea beetles, decimated by cabbage moths, and taken down by slugs and snails overnight. If you are commonly experiencing these issues, you are likely dealing with soil issues. Growing crops without the proper nutrients, placing them in too tight spacings, or growing the same crops consecutively in the same soil are common problems that precipitate some, but not all forms of predation. The best way to avoid pests is preventively: use adequate plant spacing, ensure adequate soil fertility, and anticipate problems before they happen.
If you do experience problems, here are some recommended treatment methods for common pests: These are all forms of pest management that are allowed under organic production.
Aphids: neem oil in a water solution sprayed directly on the plants can deter and kill modest aphid populations but is not very effective against outright infestations. Best to simply remove the effected plants.
Flea Beetle/pill bugs: lightly dust diatomaceous earth directly on plant leaves.
Cabbage Moth: Dissolve BT (bacillus thuringiensis) in a water solution and spray directly on plants.
Slugs and Snails: apply granulated sluggo/iron phosphate on the ground near plants, or consider manual removal/relocation. Snail hunting at night is an gardeners favorite pastime..
Gophers: traps or physical barriers (raised beds lined with cages; gopher cages, black box trap)
A Final Note on The Harvest
Crops such as beets, cabbage, cauliflower are “one hitters” in the sense that they are harvested once and finished. These harvests are relatively straightforward. However, crops such as collards, kales, some types of broccoli, and even lettuces can be progressively harvested. Consider harvesting these crops at a more modest rate than you would during summer or spring months. Plant leaves don't regenerate as quickly in the fall and winter, and if over harvested they will have a much harder time regenerating. Be gentle to your plants in the autumn.
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