#50 shade cloth for greenhouse

[nehashadenet]

Shade nets are lightweight, knitted fabrics usually made from high-density polyethylene. They have many applications, spanning from agriculture, gardening, construction, infrastructure, landscaping and a lot more. As a reputed shade net rope manufacturer in Kolkata, in this blog, we are going to cover its application in farming and growing a wide variety of crops. 

[bokauffmann]

5 cigars for new smokers

Are you a beginner cigar smoker looking to enhance your smoking experience? Look no further! In this video, we'll share some invaluable tips to help you navigate the world of cigars like a pro. We'll even give you a list of 5 solid, flavorful cigars that are perfect for the new smoker.

With their rich history and complex flavors, Cigars have long captivated aficionados worldwide. However, for beginners, the world of cigars can seem daunting and intimidating. Part of this intimidation stems from the various elements of a cigar - its size, shape, wrapper, filler, and binder. Understanding these components is vital to unlocking the enjoyment that cigars can offer.

So, let us explore the fascinating world of cigars and why they can be intimidating for those just starting out. Here are three very sound tips for new cigar smokers:

Tip number 1: Start with a mild cigar - recommendations include Macanudo Café Hyde Park, Montecristo White, or Oliva Connecticut series.

When it comes to cigars, beginners often need help with the various options. Choosing the right cigar can be daunting, especially for those who have yet to develop their palate. That's why tip number one is simple: start with a mild cigar.

Mild cigars are known for their smooth and subtle flavors, making them the perfect introduction to the world of cigars. They offer a gentler smoking experience that allows beginners to ease into the complexities of tobacco without being overwhelmed.

Tip number 2: Look for a cigar with a Connecticut wrapper for a smoother taste

When selecting a cigar, the wrapper is one of the most important factors to consider. The wrapper leaf plays a significant role in the overall flavor profile of the cigar, as it contributes to the aroma and taste. A cigar with a Connecticut wrapper is an excellent choice for beginners seeking a smoother taste.

Connecticut wrappers are known for their light, golden-brown color, and delicate texture. They are typically shade-grown under muslin cloth or in greenhouses, which results in milder flavors and a smoother smoking experience. These wrappers tend to have subtle notes of creaminess, cedar, and sometimes hints of sweetness, making them an excellent option for beginners who want to ease into the world of cigars without overwhelming their taste buds.

Tip #3: Pay attention to the size and shape of the cigar

Another essential aspect to consider when starting with cigars is the size and shape. Cigars come in a variety of sizes and shapes, each offering a unique smoking experience. It's generally recommended for beginners to start with a classic size - such as a Robusto or Toro.

These sizes are known for their balanced proportions, allowing for an even burn and consistent flavors. Their medium ring gauge (typically around 50) provides a comfortable smoking experience without being too overwhelming. Additionally, their length (usually between 4 and a half to 6 inches) ensures a manageable smoking time that allows beginners to fully enjoy the flavors without feeling rushed.

Next, we will give you a list of 5 flavorful cigars which are highly recommended for new smokers, but please take a minute to like this video and subscribe, would you? Thank you so much!

Macanudo Cafe Hyde Park: The Macanudo Cafe Hyde Park is famous for beginners due to its smooth and mellow flavor profile. It features a Connecticut Shade wrapper, which lends a creamy and slightly sweet taste with notes of cedar. The Hyde Park size, measuring 5.5 inches by 49 ring gauge, offers a comfortable smoking experience that allows you to savor the flavors without feeling overwhelmed.

When smoking, you'll find flavors like delicate creaminess, subtle cedar, and occasional hints of sweetness. This combination creates a well-rounded and enjoyable smoking experience for beginners.

Oliva Connecticut Reserve Petite Corona, The Oliva Connecticut Reserve Petite Corona, is another excellent choice for beginners. With its Ecuadorian Connecticut wrapper, this cigar delivers a smooth and creamy smoking experience.

The petite corona size, measuring 5 inches by 43 ring gauge, is perfect for those who prefer a shorter smoking time. It offers flavors of toasted nuts, subtle spices, and a hint of sweetness, making it an enjoyable option for beginners exploring milder flavors.

Romeo y Julieta 1875 Bully: For those looking for a classic and well-known cigar brand, the Romeo y Julieta 1875 Bully is a great choice. This 5-inch by 50-ring gauge cigar features an Indonesian shade-grown wrapper that produces smooth and mild smoke.

The flavors of cedar, nuts, and subtle sweetness make it an appealing option for beginners. With its consistent construction and approachable flavor profile, the Romeo y Julieta 1875 Bully is a reliable choice for those new to cigars.

The Montecristo White Lable Grande Tubos Robusto, The Montecristo White Label Grande Tubos Robusto, is a premium cigar sure to impress beginners and seasoned smokers. Measuring 5 inches by 52 ring gauge, this Robusto-sized beauty offers a generous smoking experience.

Its stunning Ecuadorian Connecticut wrapper, which lends a smooth and creamy character, sets the Montecristo White Label apart. The flavors of this cigar are rich and complex, with notes of cedar, leather, and a touch of sweetness that lingers on the palate. The construction of the Montecristo White Label is impeccable, ensuring an even burn and a satisfying draw with each puff. The Grande Tubos packaging adds a touch of elegance and convenience, allowing you to enjoy this exquisite cigar wherever you go.

The CAO Gold Robusto The CAO Gold Robusto is a cigar that combines quality and affordability, making it an excellent choice for beginners. Measuring 5 inches by 50 ring gauge, this Robusto-sized cigar offers an approachable and enjoyable medium-bodied smoking experience.

Its beautiful Connecticut seed Ecuadorian wrapper sets the CAO Gold Robusto apart, which gives it a smooth and creamy flavor profile. The notes of vanilla, cedar, and a hint of spice create a well-balanced combination that will please any palate.

The construction of the CAO Gold Robusto is top-notch, ensuring that each puff delivers a consistent and satisfying draw. With its affordable price point, the CAO Gold Robusto allows beginners to explore the world of cigars without breaking the bank. Whether relaxing at home or out on the golf course, this cigar will surely provide a pleasurable smoking experience every time.

The leisure of smoking cigars is one of the fastest growing hobbies in the world. Learning to appreciate the flavors, qualities and workmanship that goes into these fine works of art is a lifelong journey. Please watch this next video, which has been handpicked for you.

[auressea]

Garden ALERT!

From Linda Gilkeson:

As we move into the El Nino weather pattern this summer, here comes the first heat wave of the season. Over this weekend, forecasts show highs of 26-28oC [about 80oF] on Vancouver Island and coastal areas and up to 34oC [93oF] further inland and up the Fraser Valley.

new gardeners that might need a warning: These temperature would be too hot for tiny seedlings, newly sown seed beds and plants that have been transplanted recently. No matter how well beds are watered, a bare soil surface can get so hot that seedling roots fry because they are close to the surface. Heat waves this early can also damage the new leaves of perennials and overwintered plants because their leaves have been used to cool, moist conditions and leaf cells have not yet adapted to hot weather. SO, start heat proofing your garden right now:

Hold off on new plantings: If you were planning to sow more seeds this weekend, just wait and do it later in cooler weather. Veggie starts in flats might be better off held in deep shade over the weekend rather than being planted out, especially if you don’t have the means to shade them well.

Shade seedbeds: If seeds haven’t come up yet, use burlap, old beach towels, bedsheets or cut open empty compost bags and spread them white side up, over the beds. Check morning and evening for signs of tiny green shoots, at which point, you must remove opaque covers and replace them with shade cloth or other sun screens.

Shade vulnerable plants: Especially important to protect are cool weather crops (peas, lettuce, leafy greens, any young plants in the cabbage family) and newly transplanted starts. Plants with large, soft leaves (squash, beans) could also experience sunscald injury, especially at the highest temperatures. Use horticultural shade cloth (get a fabric that provide 30%-50% shade, but not more) or use wooden or woven latticework covers (cedar lath panels are available at lumber yards). You can turn plastic lattice-work seedling trays upside down over small seedlings. These options let in enough light that you can leave the shade material in place until the heat wave is over. You can also use opaque materials, such as old bed sheets or any kind of lightweight fabric, lace curtains, lace tablecloths. These don’t let in enough light to be left in place for long so if the heat wave goes on more than a couple of days, deploy the covers by mid-morning and uncover plants in late afternoon so they have some time for photosynthesis in the cooler parts of the day. You can use floating row cover by folding it over several times to make it more opaque and propping it up on stakes so there is good air circulation under it (it was designed to trap heat so don’t cover plants tightly with it) . If you have installed floating row cover or insect netting over carrot and cabbage family seed beds to protect again root fly attack, leave the cover in place and lay shade cloth, curtain material, etc. on top of the insect cover.

Protect plants in greenhouses: Temperatures likely will get far too high without shading so cover greenhouses and tunnels with shade cloth. If that isn’t possible, then shade the plants inside the greenhouse using any kind of shading you can devise. Open vents and doors wide, increase ventilation, use high speed fans to dump heat.

Mulch as much as possible: Spread mulch right now on established plants, such as peas, cabbage family, new strawberry plants, onion seedlings. Mulch plants in greenhouses, too.

AND don’t forget to water: Most of us haven’t been thinking about irrigation yet, so don’t forget to check the soil for moisture and keep plants watered accordingly.

Harvest before the heat: Overwintered spinach, cauliflower, purple sprouting broccoli and other plants are quickly shooting up and this heat will accelerate that. For best quality you might want to harvest before the weekend. The last of my winter cauliflowers are nearly ready so I will cut them before heat causes the curds to separate and lose the sweet, mild flavour.

[jacks-tracks]

Oax to Mex

Bus service in Mexico is extensive, and cheap. There are local buses to every little hill town, conditions deteriorating the further out one goes, but they get there. For me to take a 1st class bus(AC, bathroom, reclining seats,movie"Kong vs Godzilla", )and non stop on good freeways, cost $10 an hour, or $60 total. As it was public holiday, the bus was full, and I,m glad I took Marus advice and booked well ahead.

Oaxaca city is sprawling, and we hauled through roadside development for an hour before leaving the suburbs. While the valley has been totally deforested, there are lots of trees high up on the surrounding hill tops. Up out of the valley the land becomes dry and barren, rocky eroded hillsides, arroyos ripped by rain into hoodoos, and only Yucca and stray agave among the broken rock. It's green /grey, desolate. No houses, no farms no nada for miles.

That drought plagued area gradually changes with elevation, and short scrub fills the gulleys, and in places some one has planted pine trees with limited success. Long needle pine and eucalyptus, alternate with tall cactus. After 2 hours the land though still dry had some deep enough gulleys to support shrubs. Up, up ,up into the highlands and more temperate conditions. Every flat spot had been planted to seasonal corn, long since harvested. Cement box homes perched above gullys in the scorching sun. A few crumbling adobes showed where someone had tried to live.

Finally we crested the hills and entered what became the high inland valley leading to Pueblo and MEX. Now there were flat fields, very flat, plowed by tractors and then hilled by one horse plows. thouands(millions ?) of acres most bare , but many still bearing cabbage. onions,and squash, being hand picked by teams of workers. Deep ditches showed how much rain does fall. All the fields were lined with miles of drip irrigation, and many greenhouses or shade cloth shielded frames had the more delicate plants. That huge flat valley. Was it once a lake? Old paintings of Mexico city show large lakes. I'd wondered how they fed so many people and now I see, extensive intensive agriculture.

By hour 5 we were in Pueblo, a huge sprawl, and never left suburbia, although some small fields still popped up among the cement , mostly corn for domestic use. All the highways are toll roads, so there are no funky trucks or motorcycles , and the smooth ride is easy.

I had intially planned on taking the 9:30 bus bur opted for the nicer 10 am. We caught up with the early bus. First I saw a steel guardrail peeled backover in a twisted curl over a 40 foot length, then the ambulance beside the bus. No bodys, but the right front of the bus was smushed back. A couple of more buses were standing by to take the passengers away, but that was delayed. We swept past.

The 6 hour trip took 7, but was smooth and acceptable. City traffic snarled us up, it being a public holiday, and we stop/started in clogged streets. Finally bumped in to TAPO, the massive bus station,and gladly disembarked. My extra bag(where did that come from? Tapetes) was there and I made my way into the station crowds. Got a fixed price "secure" taxi ticket but was told there was a half hour wait for cabs, so I hit the food court and bought a chicken sub to eat in line. Actually one and a half hour wait, gratefull to have food and drink. 200 pesos and the cab had GPs so found my cheapo hotel. The Pension Zocalo is actually a big old hotel chopped up into small rooms, cheap at 250 pesos(shared bath, towel and hot water, fine wi-fi, and a mattress from the 50,s totally bagged. So tired i slept anyway. I cancelled lunch with Maru, moving it to Friday.

Woke to 4+ lanes of traffic outside my second story window, vendors shouting and food stands being set up. I went to the drug store for rehydrating liquids and water from a 7/11. then a chicken taco (10 pesos and good ) for breakfast. There's always food somewhere in Mexico!

Walked into El centro passing my next hotel(Isabel) and on to the commercial district. Same goods, fancy stores,pedestrian walkways. Always on the lookout for patio/ museums i somehow entered the Banamex building, for a tour of their collection of paintings, some with massive gold leafed wooden carved frames, more impressive than the pictures of old Pedro the dead president, or his overdressed wife, old boardroom,and displays of money(no free samples). I was accompanied room to room by guards. On to the Bank of Mexico in a beautiful old stone building, through an xray check, and saw a huge collection of world coins, banknotes, and lame interactive displays. i did like the cabinet that showed how banknotes a re designed and printed, vast blocks of 100's, and cart loads of new money. Still no samples,lot of guards. Were those 2 gold bricks real, 50 pounds of gold.

Finally made it to the Alameda park, and some welcome relief from traffic and noise. It's a pretty civilized couple of square blocks, but fountains and trees line the paths and more butt buster iron benches are everywhere. The Jacaranda trees a re in full bloom, clouds of dee purple , and the ground is covered delicate tubular blossoms. No bums, few panhandlers, mostly locals and a few tourists like me looking at maps. Had an ice cream, and got bold enough to try getting back to the hotel by subway(Metro). Bit grubby and ill lit, but once I got through the turnstiles and asked several cops for instructions i got the right train and 2 stops later came up where i wanted to be. My internal compass still works and I was able to find the hotel, stopping only to buy a cheap connector adaptor for my phone and computer.

Hot shower, washed shirts, socks and underwear, a short rest, then it's

out for dinner takeout. Tommorrow i move to the better hotel(private bath, balcony, restuarant). More as it happens from the biggest city in the world!

[almiqahardware]

Shade nets are the cloths used to make greenhouses. They work by diffusing the amount of sunlight passing through it to create the optimal growing conditions for a specific crop virtually anywhere across the world. This is a product of today’s scientific approach to agriculture and this certainly has helped shape the way agriculture is looked upon today. Shade nets are used in other alternative ways also other than agriculture and thus this product has proved to be versatile. Shade nets are often seen in the color green and that is why we call shade net houses greenhouses but shade net are available in more colors and not for aesthetical choices they each have their own specific benefits and characteristics which is why it is important for us to know what color shade net is the best? When choosing a shade net, it is important to know that the different colors of a shade net influences the growth of different plants in different ways so it is important for us to choose the right one that helps the growth of the plant in the right way. While the color is an important indicator of functionality. There are other important factors also that are to be considered when choosing the ideal shade net such as: Fabric Material

Shade net cloths are available in two variants mainly which are knitted or woven. The knitted variant is made of polyethylene blend which can deflect heat and light and is lightweight. It is also sturdy and can maintain regular wear and tear. The woven variant is purely made out of the polypropylene which has the same benefits as the knitted variant but with added effects like being heavier and more adept to cold weather or use in winter. It does so because of its ability to store heat more than the knitted variant. Density of Material

The density of the material is important as it is the determining factor to how much light passes through the cloth and how much heat is trapped inside the shade net. The density of the material is hence an important factor for choosing the right shade net as this factor makes sure that there is enough light and heat available for the plants to grow in the optimum conditions. The different available variants of shade nets in order of density of material are: 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70-90%. Colour

Finally, we come to the color of shade nets and how they affect the usability of shade nets, some of the most commonly available colors shade net cloths are black and green. There are other colors as well such as white, red, yellow and blue.

Effects of Coloured Shade Net Cloth on Plants

Choosing the right colored shade net is not up to the choice of 

aesthetics

 as we said earlier, it comes down different factors one of the most important factors being that shade net cloths of lighter colors act as better ventilation for agricultural purposes as they reflect more heat from the sun. White shade net cloths reduce the amount and the harshness or strength of the light entering and not the quality of the light spectrum. Thus, it speeds up the plant growth more than if a green or black shade net cloth was used, for this reason they are often used for flowering plants.

Dark color shade net cloths are better in absorbing the sun’s heat while the light colored shade net cloths reflect the suns heat. Usually dark colored shade net cloths which are green and black are used to deprive the plants of much strong sunlight which keeps the interior heat controlled and it is good for plants that thrive in shade. It has been observed that plants that grow under dark colored shade nets like black or green grow bigger leaves and more nodes in comparison to plants grown under light colored shade nets. Aluminized shade net also provides substantial shade for the plants inside it and promotes a cool growing environment which can help different plants which need cool climate to thrive. Colors such as red and yellow help the plants in the same way as well while they also have the added benefits of being able to filter out different wavelengths of the light which can help protect the plant from radiation damage or sun burns.

For more related products and prices please visit the Al Miqat Hardware store where you can find a variety of new innovative products, sizes and at affordable prices. Website : http://www.almiqathardware.com/

[hoardiculturist]

Greenhouse

1. When to take your plants outside?

This is dependent on the temperature range your plants can withstand, if you have a euphorbia who has a min temperature that is higher (about 50F) then you’re going to want to wait to take that plant out until the nighttime min temperature is in the 50s consistently. There can be nights that it will drop slightly below min temperature, but that’s okay since they are trapping heat in their enclosure which raises it slightly.

2. When to close your greenhouse?

I close my greenhouse if there is high winds, highwinds + heavy rain, heavy rain, and if the temperature drops significantly. It’s currently sprinkling outside and my “door” to my greenhouse is open because no water is going to get in without wind helping it and it is light enough that any water that gets on the soil is not enough to mess up my watering cycle.

3. When is it too hot?

During the day time it when it gets to 60/70F outside the inside of the greenhouse will get to 85/95F (it’s handy to keep a thermometer in there to know exact temps. They sell ones that connect to your phone, but they’re expensive) which can be way too hot for your plants when they’ve been inside all winter, so I typically open my greenhouse when I leave for work at 5:30am. Now that nighttime minimums are 5/10 degrees higher than my minimum plant temperatures I leave my greenhouse open all night. Soon I will take the plastic cover off and only put it back on when it rains. You can have the rain water your plants if it falls on the correct time to water your plants, but I’ve rarely had that happen.

4. Where to get a greenhouse and what one to buy

Amazon is a good spot, but any of these affordable greenhouses are very light and will need adjustments (see anchoring). The plastic can also rip quite easily, but it does well as a temporary greenhouse.

5. Shade cloth choices

There are many shade cloths to choose from, but white shade cloths are better for plants. They let in all the nice UV rays while keeping your plants cooler than a black shade cloth. Personally I would choose a woven rather than a knitted shade cloth, since knitted usually comes in a seatbelt like material and woven is some sort of plastic and won’t absorb water. There are many densitys of shade cloth (i.e. 50%, 40%, 30%, etc.) the density is just the amount of light that will be blocked by the shade cloth. If you’re only going to buy one shade cloth, buy a higher density and just slowly remove it as the weeks progress. If you buy several different densities, start with the highest you have and weekly/biweekly move down in density.

6. Choosing a spot for your greenhouse

Think about how much sun the spot is going to get. Afternoon sun is more intense and will be hotter than morning or evening sun. Morning sun “wakes up” your plants by helping them begin photosynthesis for the day and helps them follow their circadian rhythm. It’s best to find an area that will provide shade for afternoon sun and direct morning sun.

Tree proving shade

7. Anchoring your greenhouse

You will need to anchor your greenhouse with heavy duty stakes or brackets to keep it from blowing over. I have mine attached to my fence with brackets. The shelves also support more when ziptied to the frame. This year I decided to buy some aluminum screen to cover the shelves to help stabilize my smaller pots since the original shelves have quite large gaps in the wire.

8. How to adjust your plants to outside living

*please note that methods can vary from person to person*

I start by separating my plants into two groups. The first group is all of my plants that can handle very low temperatures (such as my cacti) and the second group is my higher temp plants like euphorbia and other plants that didn’t fit into my first group. Once the minimum temperature of outside consistently reaches the highest minimum temperature plant of the first group I will take out the first wave of plants. If there is any chance of frost don’t take them outside. For the first week I will keep them zipped up during nighttime and sometimes during daytime if the temps are in the 40s during day. I will check them daily for signs of stress (sun bleached leaves, brown/yellow soft, translucent), because damage can happen very fast. If they are getting too much sun even with the one shade cloth, add more shade cloth. If they are getting too hot, leave the greenhouse open or add a fan. At the end of the first week, survey how your plants have done and if they’re doing okay you can slowly open the shade cloth, but if they’re stressed leave them covered for another week. To help keep the cloth open I use clothes pins, but any clip strong enough would work. If they’re stressed once you add more sun, just make the gap for sun to get in smaller than you had previously. I remove my shade cloth in four stages.... 1. Fully covered 2. Open the doorway still keeping plants on shelves covered 3. Lift the sides, so only the “roof” is covered 4. Fully removed. Once I have gotten them to the final stage I move them to a shelf next to my greenhouse and move in the second wave of plants. When the plants are on the second shelf I use a shower curtain to protect them from the rain.

Greenhouse in stage 2

I’m sure I’m missing something, so I’ll edit this if I remember any more information.

@shutupsavannah

[hennessystevens-udaku]

For Everybody

_________________________________

Summary: This story is what happens when @eriknutinthispoosy wants a fic of Erik cheating and @allhailnjadaka wants some ratchet shit to take place. The First Lady is all type of outta character in this one.

_________________________________

“Aww hell nah, this nigga got me 50 shades of fucked up,” Hennessy exclaimed as she watched the surveillance camera set up in Erik’s room. She never saw the point of them, but he and Charlie insisted, for security purposes. Just when she thought her idiot husband couldn’t get any stupider, he proved her wrong yet again.

“So 9 vaginas ain’t enough for him? His Braille-backed ass had to go get some random bitch from off the street? And his stupid ass brought her in our house?!” The Princess was fuming.

Her eyes widened when the mystery woman, standing at 5’10 with lean sun kissed legs and a face just as gorgeous as any of the other women in the house, walked to the middle of the room and looked directly in the camera. As if she knew it was there...as if she knew someone would be watching.

The time stamp on the recording read last Wednesday, 12:43 pm. That sneaky bastard. Wednesday was the day that all nine wives plus Little Bee wenr to brunch, catching up and bonding in sisterly fellowship. It was few and far between that they were all free at the same time and when those rare moments came they took advantage. Erik was filled in on this brunch at a few of the ladies favorite French bistro a day prior and he took advantage as well.

“Guess this nigga didn’t think we’d catch him.” Ryley’s long matte black nails tapped against the vast mahogany oak desk. She sat beside Henny as her eyes bore into the pretty face on the screen. “Bold one, she is.”

“Very bold.” Henny folded her arms and fell back into her seat. Her brows stitched together and her pouty lips were set in a thin line, emotions etched all over her face. To say she was hurt was an understatement. It hurt her so much she couldn’t produce a single tear.

“Am I not enough? Are we not enough?” her voice was soft and shaky.

“Nah, don’t even think like that sis. That nigga stupid and he gone get what’s coming to him.” A few moments later, Charlie sauntered into Henny’s office looking almost as upset as the other two women. Her usual Charming demeanor had switched to something more cold and devious.

“Henny, I love you, but y’all need to come with me.” Without question, the three women made the short trek to Ryley’s G Wagon and sped towards their shared abode. When they were a safe distance from the greenhouse, Charlie pulled up the surveillance footage on her iPhone X.

“THIS BITCH IS STILL IN MY HOUSE?!”

“I didn’t wanna tell you in your office for the sake of the plants, but yeah she’s still there and is making herself real comfortable.” They both watched as the mystery woman sauntered from room to room, touching and trying on their precious jewels and clothes. Hennessy began to see red. It had been a while since she’d gotten this upset and of course it would be Mr. Stevens-Udaku to bring her inner beast out of retirement.

“Hennessy?” Ryley questioned when she noticed the head brat had become a little too quiet for comfort. She remained silent.

“Henny?” she tried again. Silence.

“Kitana?” Charlie tried. Suddenly, the small woman turned and flashed a sly smile, her rose gold fronts gleaming in the twilight. Her usually happy, doe eyes and turned an eerie black and her whole face was turned into an evil grimace.

“Aww shit!” Ryley and Charlie exclaimed in unison.

--

“N’Jadaka! Bring your crusty ass out here!” Kitana screamed as she, Ryley, and Charlie walked back into The Kompound.

“Wait, what we miss?” Angel questioned, confusion etched all over her face. She and Little Bee were seated on the couch, Princess Nya bouncing happily between them. Kimora and Josephine were in the kitchen baking, while Homie sat comfortably on the counter acting as taste tester. Per usual, Aly’Sha was in her room, probably tired from football practice.

“Mr. Stevens-Udaku isn’t available right now,” the mystery woman called from the grand staircase. “However, I’ll be more than happy to answer whatever questions you may have.”

Everything was silent as all eyes fell on her.

“Ericka,” Kitana snarled.

“Nice to meet you in person, Kitana, I’ve heard so much about you.”

As the two exchanged looks, Kimora emerged from the kitchen.

“I’m glad y’all know of each other and whatnot, but who are you and why you in our house?”

“I’m the woman who just fucked y’all husband. Now since there’s so many of you I’m not sure whose room it was but it was real nice. I was thinking of doing some wandering since Daddy is asleep.”

“Bitch I swear to Jesus, Mary, Joseph and Bast herself, I will drag yo rusty, dusty, crusty, broke back, uneven frontal headass down this entire gahdamn hallway. And trust me, there's a lot of fucking hallway in this big ass house.” Josephine perked up at her tone.

“Aww shit, Demon Henny, yeee!” As the rest of the harem attempted to understand what was going on downstairs, Aly’Sha had heard just enough to take matters into her own hands in regards to the punishment of their husband.

“Aye Nigga! Wake the fuck up!” Aly’sha growled as she shot a hollow point 9mm bullet on the headboard above their husband, who she affectionately referred to as a beginners tutorial for the blind. Her voice echoed from the enormous room. Guess she wasn't too tired from practice.

“Aly'sha…” The beast growled, sitting up slowly. “What the fuck is the matter with you?”

“NAH WHAT THE ABSOLUTE DUMB NIGGA FUCK IS WRONG WITH YOU!?” Another bullet whizzed past Erik's head and for the first time in a long while, he flinched.

“ALY’SHA I GOT IT!” the small woman screamed upstairs. “I just gotta take care of this bitch first.”

Grumbling to herself, Aly’sha exited the room, putting the gun back in the waist of her shorts. This nigga was really about to die die.

“That must be your little errand girl, hmm?” Erika hissed a giggled as she watched the rage in Kitana’s eyes grow.

Upon hearing all the commotion from her studio, Bastion emerges in her Moschino sweatsuit and fluffy mink slides.

“What in the Christian Louboutin is going on in here?”

“Don’t worry about it babygirl, go back to work. Mama’s just gotta take out some trash.”

“Oh well that means I must stay. That’s one of my specialities. Now who is this woman, why is she in my house and why are there gunshots being fired? I thought we weren't doing firearms in the house after the last time I got too drunk.”

“Because your husband is an idiotic dipshit.” Aly'sha growled, standing behind Kitana as if she was one of Charlie's angels.

“Well I knew that when I married him, but Harpo who dis woman?”

“A dead bitch,” Kitana hissed as she wielded the katana blade that was hidden in the intricately carved bracelet on her wrist. A birthday present from Shuri.

“Has she always had that?” Homie inquired.

“I don’t think I wanna find out,” Kristina said as she carried little Nya away from all of the commotion.

“Care to give me the information on her astronomical indiscretion?” Bastion inquires with a perfectly orchestrated eyebrow raised.

“It’s simple really,” Ericka began to explain. “While the cats were away, Daddy Jaguar decided to play. And who am I to deny the Prince of Wakanda?”

“As I said before, A dead bitch.” Kitana twirling the blade between her nimble fingers as she stared Erika down.

“I’m sorry let me see if I can comprehend this simpleton’s language. So you’re telling me that my husband, who has a plethora of pussy to use and abuse at his discretion, was intimate with you? Of his own free will? As though he wasn’t just shot at for not giving his last wife enough attention? He fucked you freely? Ha! Ok my darling please have yourself admitted to the nearest psychiatric ward. I’ll even recommend a wonderful therapist and even better medication. My mother knows them well.”

Ericka stared her, grin wide as ever but not quite making it to her eyes. They were steely, dark and deep. She’d seen and experienced a lot. It was in the way she moved…spoke. “You’re so entertaining, no wonder he stopped at you. You were the icing on the spoiled ass cake, huh?” She let out a chuckle. “Pipe down, little bitch, before I make you. I’m here to speak with the real wife, the first lady. All you other hoes sit down and watch me defeat your beloved head Princess Hennessy Chiron.”

Her eyes moved back to Kitana, looking over her frame before she met her fiery gaze.

“Let me give you the play by play. First, I took a seat on my new throne, you know those lips you love? Made him hit it from the back then from the side. Asked him what’s your favorite position and then made him look in my eyes while I took all that dick. He promised to make me wifey number twelve.”

Slice. The blade moved so fast no one could process the action. Ericka’s pink peplum blouse was now in shreds at her feet and blood oozed from the long cut across her chest. Before she could react, Kitana had the blade above her head and was bringing it down again, this time digging it into the flesh of her abdomen.

“I’m glad you enjoyed that dick because that’s the last one you’ll ever hop on,” Kitana snarled as she threw her blade down and went straight for Ericka’s neck. What she lacked in height, the small woman definitely made up for in brute strength and speed.

“Damn, she really is the female Erik,” Kimora noted as the two women wrestled in the foyer. Though Henny was much shorter than Ericka, she easily overpowered the outsider.

“No one can dethrone me, bitch,” Hennessy snarled with a sharp jab to Ericka’s face.

Ericka growled, her whole body throbbing. First it was the wound to her chest, causing pain to spread through her body like wildfire. Her tolerance was higher than many. She should’ve been on the floor begging for mercy. Her mission, however, was not done.

“I-I did you one better.” She spoke softly, low but audible enough for Kitana to hear. The venom in her bite had disappeared. “There’s a crack in your foundation. You’re relationship isn’t as perfect as you thought it was. N’Jadaka found ten wives after you and still can’t be loyal. I can’t take your spot but my actions will make you want to give it up.”

Just then the blade appeared from the small of Erika’s back, piercing a few vital organs and killing her instantly. The princess removed her blade and headed for the staircase. The wrath of Hennessy Monaé Chiron Stevens-Udaku had only just begun.

_________________________________

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[gameofdrarry]

Drarropoly 2018: Prompt List

Here is the complete prompt list for the game! If you decide to use any of these, please tag us and add them to the ao3 collection by February 1, 2019. 

Thanks again to the following artists for graciously allowing us to use their work on the game board: @lettersbyelise @mzuul @jackofallplagues @fantom-ftnoise@julcheninred @keyflight790 @slowestdive @hp-rbiim  [High res of the game board here]

View the prompts below the cut!

GO! Platform 9 3/4

Fic:  200 words - Drarry + Hols + either 1) Vacations -OR- 2) New Beginnings -OR- 3) Lost Luggage 

Art: Drarry + Holidays/Vacations/New Beginnings/or Lost Luggage + Under the Sun/or Moon

THE LEAKY CAULDRON

Fic: This was a round robin dialogue exercise - to adapt it, use dialogue only: Drarry + a group of other people + Drinking 

Art:  Drarry + a public place + Body Only: Draw the pair in a scene without their faces showing

SLUG & JIGGERS APOTHECARY

Fic: Harry has a need for a special potion.  Minimum: 49 Maximum: 499

Art: Using only cool colors + Drarry + special potions

ENCHANTED CHEST OF TREASURES 1 & 2 

1: writer's choice of word count under 699

2: writer's choice of word count under 899

Fic Prompts: 

2. Draco is gifted an elixir from a famed Potions Master from South America, but he doesn't translate the name properly before taking it.

3. Harry finds a special locket in an old wizard antique shop, but he's not quite prepared for what it does to him.

4. Draco helps Harry explore the attics of Grimmauld Place, which are full of ancient relics and strange magical objects.

5. Harry finds a photo of his parents together at a beautiful, scenic location. He wants to recreate the photo. One problem: he doesn't have a significant other.

6. Draco or Harry stumbles upon a rare One-Use Time Turner that can send you back in time five minutes. He uses it to either 1) save the other's life or 2) redo a particularly awkward or misconstrued conversation.

7. Draco and Harry use a set of Two-Way Mirrors to keep in contact when they're apart. 

8. Draco and Harry have discovered a new enchanted mirror. Pick either: 1) The Mirror of Acitore (Acitore = Erotica backwards) OR 2) a window to another reality OR 3) A reflection of the future   

9. Drarry separately uncover a Black family artifact set that leaves them somehow bonded together. 

10. Harry and Draco get stuck in the Room of Requirement. It gives them just what they need.

11. Harry enjoys a moment when Draco has to use Muggle technology

12. One of them finds a magical compass that points to their soulmate. 

Art Prompts: 

2. Drarry posing for photograph/portrait 3. Drarry giving/receiving gifts 4. Drarry finding ancient relics in Grimmauld Place 5. Harry recreating an image of his parents at a special location with Draco 6. Drarry in a historical era other than their own 7. Draco and Harry use a set of Two-Way Mirrors to keep in contact when they're apart. 8. Harry and Draco discover an enchanted mirror that shows their future selves in twenty five years 9. Draco convinces Harry to take part in a Pureblood Tradition 10. Draw Drarry as a Tarot Card https://labyrinthos.co/blogs/tarot-card-meanings-list 11. Harry enjoys a moment when Draco has to use Muggle technology 12. One of them finds a magical compass that points to their soulmate.

TRAVEL BY BROOM

Fic: 200 Words - Drarry on Brooms - Pick either 1) For Work OR 2) For Play

Art: Drarry + brooms + either 1) the night sky -or- 2) Quidditch backdrop

FLOURISH & BLOTTS

Fic:  "I could read for you if you want." - Minimum: 118 Maximum: 481 

Art: Drarry + ink stains + black & white only

THE TIME TURNER

Fic: Choose a scene from the books and rewrite it differently - 999 words or less

Art: Illustrate a scene from the books happening differently 

MADAM MALKIN'S ROBES FOR ALL OCCASIONS

Fic: Description Only (No Dialogue): seeing the other in a new item of clothing for the first time - Minimum: One Sentence Maximum: 299 words

Art: Seeing the other in a new item of clothing for the first time - using red monochromatic colours.

THE GREAT HALL

Fic: Pick One: 1) "There's a troll in the dungeons!" - "Ugh, again?" OR 2) Bringing the other food when they are sick/forgot to eat OR 3) "The ceiling's never done *that* before." - Minimum: 76 Maximum: 677

Art: Draw: Pick one: 1) Drarry before the Welcome Feast -or- 2) Drarry during the Welcoming Feast -or- 3) Drarry after the Welcome Feast 

THE GREENHOUSE

Fic: Pick One: 1) Drarry + Recreational Drug Use OR 2) "Trim the hedges." OR 3) Someone has allergies - Minimum: 42 Maximum: 420

Art: Drarry + nature + using only green monochromatic colours

THE POTIONS CLASSROOM

Fic: Harry and Draco are lab partners and are stuck making a complex and intimidating potion. Please include either 1) The Potion Recipe as they follow it OR 2) the two of them taking the potion and the effects (May include both if you desire, mind the word count) Minimum: 99 words Maximum: 999

Art: Drarry as the complete opposite of themselves - using cool analogous colours

THE HOGWARTS EXPRESS

Fic: 200 Words - Drarry returning to Hogwarts by train - Pick either: 1) "I didn't expect to see you here." OR 2) "This year will be different."

Art: From the outside looking in: Drarry + behind the glass - black + white only 

FELIX FELICIS 1 & 2

Writer’s choice

1:  odd roll 204 words - even roll 402

2: even roll 349 words - odd roll 399 words

Artist’s choice

1: Drarry Hogwart's Era

2: Drarry over 50

THE CHARMS CORRIDOR

Fic: Not Established Relationship + either 1) Forced Proximity or 2) Fake Dating  - Minimum: 31 Maximum: 531

Art: Drarry + in the style of a video game 

HOSPITAL WING

Fic: Not Established Relationship + Hurt/Comfort - Minimum: 49 words Maximum: 849

Art: Drarry + black & blue 

DAILY PROPHET - FREE WRITE

Fic: Epistolary - Write a piece featured in either: 1) The Daily Prophet OR 2) The Quibbler OR 3) Witch Weekly -  499 words or less

Art: Draw a cover story for either 1) The Daily Prophet -or- 2) The Quibbler -or- 3) Witch Weekly

THE THREE BROOMSTICKS

Fic: Drarry + Liquid Courage/Confessions - Minimum: 49 Maximum: 449

Art: Drarry + Hogsmeade - warm analogous colours

HONEYDUKES

Fic: Pick One: 1) "I've never tasted anything this delicious in my entire life." 2) Drarry + Secret Admirer 3) Drarry + Chocolate - Minimum: 99 words Maximum: 999

Art: Drarry +pure fluff - using pastel colours

APPARITION 

Fic: Move to any spot on the board and use that prompt but complete it in exactly 200 words

Art: Move to any spot on the board and use that prompt but complete it in black and white

THE FORBIDDEN FOREST

Fic: "I can feel it in the air tonight." - Pick either: 1) Magical Creatures OR 2) Detention OR 3) The Return of Something Dark - Minimum: 184 Maximum: 841

Art: Drarry as the complete opposite of themselves - using cool analogous colours 

THE RESURRECTION STONE

Fic: Bring back one Canon-Deceased Character for a conversation. 501 words or less.

Art: Bring back one Canon-Deceased Character in black and white - the rest of the piece should be in colour

THE SHRIEKING SHACK

Fic: Drarry + Abandoned Places - Pick either: 1) Finding Treasure OR 2) Spoiler Alert: It's not really abandoned - Minimum: 129 Maximum: 291

Art: Drarry + a recognisable silhouette

AZKA-DAMN

Prompt based on roll - Minimum: 69 Maximum: 690

Fic Prompts: 

Drarry + "There's something new I'd like to try." 

Voyeurism 

Drarry + First Times 

"Not on the bed!"  -or- "Bed. Now."

Drarry + Tempers 

"If only you knew what you've brought upon yourself."

Drarry + Hairpulling 

"I put this on just for you." 

"Did I say that out loud?"

"Whatever will we do to pass the time?" 

Drarry + Anniversaries 

Art Prompts: 

Drarry + guilty 

Voyeurism in shades of grey

Drarry + a first time 

Drarry + unusual furniture 

Drarry + submission

Drarry:  "You brought this on yourself."

Drarry + Hairpulling 

"I put this on just for you." 

Drarry + Embarrassed 

Drarry + boredom 

Drarry + celebrating 

MINISTRY OF MAGIC

Fic: Draco or Harry either 1) a private citizen dealing with forms and long lines OR 2) Auror paperwork OR  3) “The following information is exclusive to the Department of Mysteries. Discretion is advised.” - Minimum: 107 words Maximum: 707 

Art: Drarry, at some point in the work day 

ST. MUNGO'S

Fic: Drarry + An Injury of either 1) very little magnitude -or- 2) great severity  - Minimum: 31 words Maximum: 310 words

Art: Drarry + An Injury of either 1) very little magnitude -or- 2) great severity 

FLOO

Fic: 200 Words - Drarry + the Floo Network - Pick either: 1) Emergency Call OR 2) “How did you know where I live?” OR 3) “Seriously? It’s midnight."

Art: Drarry + unannounced - using Black and White only

BONUS FLOO 

Fic: 489 to 563 words - DRARRY + why is the sword of Gryffindor on the ceiling 

Art:  in comic book style - the discovery of the sword on the ceiling OR the moment it gets on the ceiling - comic panels are encouraged but not required (3-panel max)

MALFOY MANOR

Fic: Drarry + Opposing Sides - Minimum: 70 words Maximum: 701 words

Art: Drarry + opposite sides + using only two complimentary colours

12 GRIMMAULD PLACE

Fic: Drarry + Dreams - Pick either: 1) Nightmares OR 2) Visions OR 3) Erotic Dreams - Minimum: 50 words Maximum: 500

Art: Drarry + Dreaming

GODRIC'S HOLLOW

Fic: Drarry + Family - Pick either: 1) Family Dinner OR 2) Meeting the family for the first time OR 3) "Surprise! We got married." -  Minimum: 81 Maximum: 810

Art: Drarry + what family means to them

[adtomall1998]

What is the difference between standard shade net and reflective shade net?

What is the difference between standard shade net and reflective shade net?

Standard shade net is an affordable, extremely durable means of protecting plants and crops from direct sunlight. A shade net is placed on the exterior roof of a greenhouse, cold frame, or high tunnel where it blocks a percentage of light from penetrating the building, hence keeping plants more comfortable. This type of shade material is appropriate for general gardening, farming, and greenhouse applications and is widely used in the commercial farming and gardening industry.

Which shade material should I use?

You can use shad net material according to your crop. Those shade material helps protect livestock, pets, plants, and people from direct sunlight and also works well as a privacy barrier or windscreen. Experience has shown that growers use mostly 50% to 75% density, with the high densities of 70% to 95% used in southern states and for light-sensitive plants in northern states.

Many people find that using a high-density shade on roofs and a lower-density shade on walls is a good method for creating ideal shade conditions. Vegetable gardeners should check with their local University Agricultural Extension office to determine the shade cloth density that is appropriate for both the climate and plant variety.

What does the shade percentage mean in relation to the shade material?

Shade density is determined by the percentage of light blocked by the shade. For example, the definition of 75% shade is that only 25% of light passes through it. A shade percentage of 30 to 75% is ideal for vegetables, while 90 to 95% is ideal for protecting people.

[agritecture]

Innovative Greenhouses In India Help Farmers Adapt To Climate Change

CONTENT SOURCED FROM NATGEO

In India, a simple greenhouse is transforming lives—creating jobs for women and arming growers against unpredictable weather.

Yadav Bhavanth grows vegetables on family land in the south-central Indian state of Telangana. On this small farm in a drought-prone region, his crop production—and income—depend heavily on seasonal rainfall.

In 2015 and 2016, water shortages threatened his crops. And when the rains came, they were often so heavy that they damaged even the hardier plants, causing disease or infestation.

Some of the extreme weather patterns can be attributed to climate change. As global temperatures increase, extended periods of drought, heat waves, and unpredictable rainfall have intensified. The crop losses and mounting debt carry a human toll: More than 3,000 farmers committed suicide in Telangana during a three-year drought. (Learn more about this problem across India)

But 2017 was different for Yadav. The 37-year-old farmer began using a greenhouse to conserve water and protect crops from harsh downpours. Instead of trapping heat, these greenhouses are made with breathable, aluminum-coated cloth netting that reflects some of the sunlight, reducing inside temperatures. The greenhouses are also fitted with drip-irrigation systems that allow farmers to use an average of 90 percent less water than their neighbors.

Bhavanth and wife Bujji, 32, tend tomatoes. The couple was part of pilot program for greenhouse cultivation.

“Outside, we are not as sure whether the crops will dry up—there is no guarantee,” Yadav says. “Inside [the greenhouse], the plants grow very fast,” he adds. “The [produce] quantity and quality is also the best.”

Venkatesh Appala, 45, grows bell peppers in Laxmapur. He started his greenhouse operation in January 2017, and estimates a profit of 46,000 rupees (just over $700) in his first year. He's using the extra income to save for his daughter's dowry, which can run up to $10,000.

GRASSROOTS GREENHOUSES

Yadav purchased his greenhouse for $2,500 from Kheyti, an Indian non-profit that is developing the structures and facilitating loans to buy them—through a program aimed at helping small farms adapt to climate change.

Greenhouses have long been used in India for commercial flower and vegetable production, but standard designs are too large and expensive for farmers like Yadav. Kheyti has created several scaled-down versions that range from 258 to 553 square yards, an area that takes up just two to five percent of a typical small farm there. The size reduces the investment risk—farmers are still able to grow other crops on the rest of their land.

Vikram Bhavanth, 13, peers through the family's greenhouse. Kheyti collaborated with engineering students at Northwestern University and Stanford University’s Design for Extreme Affordability course to develop a prototype. After multiple iterations, they settled on a metal-frame structure with an overlay of shade netting and insect-proof netting on the sides.

Kheyti’s greenhouse costs a fraction of the $30,000-plus for a conventional half-acre greenhouse. Yet because many farmers still wouldn’t be able to afford $2,500, Kheyti works with banks to get loans on the farmers' behalf, says cofounder Saumya (she doesn’t use a surname). She started the project with support from the Institute for Sustainability and Energy at Northwestern University.

Kheyti recently partnered with the Bank of Baroda, India's second largest bank, to broaden the reach of the program. Participating farmers make a down payment of 30,000 rupees [$471 dollars] and then installments of 15,000 rupees [$233 dollars] after each growing season, typically every three months, until the greenhouse is paid off.

Some farmers have used the funds from greenhouse production to further the education of their children.

The 15 farmers who piloted the Kheyti greenhouse program have just finished their first year, growing cucumbers for three and a half months and bell peppers for eight months. Most were able to produce between five and eight times more within the greenhouse. Some used the income to advance their children’s education.

“We are able to produce inside the greenhouse [258 square yards] what we are producing outside in an acre [4,840 square yards],” said Narayana Yellabonia, one of Kheyti’s first farmers. “School has started, so the money has helped out with that.”

One of Yadav Bhavanth’s relatives, Biki Malavath holds her great-granddaughter, nicknamed Milky, the youngest member of Laxmapur Thanda. The village is home to the Lambadi people, a "scheduled tribe"—defined as one of India's marginalized and socioeconomically disadvantaged communities.

Inspired by the success, there are now 50 farmers growing with Kheyti in Yadav's village, Laxmapur, and in nearby Narayanpur, and the initiative has expanded into a neighboring state. Working with the Society for Elimination of Rural Poverty (SERP), Kheyti will reach 1,000 low-income female farmers in Andhra Pradesh. SERP, a joint venture between the World Bank and the state government, will help Kheyti identify participants, provide loans, and fund training programs. These participants would make a down-payment of only 10,000 rupees [$154 dollars] to qualify for the loan. Kheyti launched the program with the first 50 farmers earlier this year.

Kheyti’s leaders hope to expand throughout India, but they’re taking it slow. “We are very proud of the culture we have built, but we don’t want to have that lost when we scale,” says cofounder Sathya Raghu Mokkapati.

A farmer tends a greenhouse in Depalle, a village about 75 kilometers southwest of Hyderabad. The village is a research and development station for Kheyti, a nonprofit group helping India's small-scale farms adapt to climate change.

CONTINUE READING THIS AMAZING STORY ON NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM

[plantgoodseed]

Fall Gardening In Focus: A Straightforward Primer

Fall can be a rewarding time to grow your own food. Cooler temperatures make it easier to work outdoors and leafy greens get sweeter in cold spells. In warmer winter climates it’s even possible to squeeze in a few summer crops and get some modest autumn production from them. Yet as the season stretches onward and day length wanes, plants are no longer growing under ideal conditions and challenges from pests and inclement weather inevitably emerge. This primer is aimed at getting you growing food as quickly as possible in the autumn, recommends a few tools and some equipment to extend your growing season in the late season, and addresses a few common garden pests and problems.

Growing Methods

Containers? Raised beds? Rooftops? Or just plain ‘ol in the ground…

A lot of plant cultivation techniques are the same, regardless of where you grow. Containers have limitations because some plants produce substantial root systems that fill up your available soil area fast. Long season crops such as cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower, deep rooted crops like chards and beets, and even leafy greens such as collards and kale are not ideal for containers. With that said, if you have and maintain adequate soil fertility, root area, and a consistent watering regime for your plants, you will have success no matter what your growing style.

When To Plant

The following chart lists what crops are can (and can’t!) be planted for fall growing along with recommended planting months. If you want to focus on the easiest crops, look for what’s color coded green. This list is substantial because we’ve included crops that theoretically could be planted in warmer winter climates like ours. Pretty much avoid growing any crops color coded red, unless you’re in for an adventure and have a tolerance for a lot of failure. Lastly, a quick spoiler: August is the most ideal planting month for all major vegetable crops.

How to Plant

Unless you have a relatively weed free soil, starting your seeds in seedling trays in a protected area such as a greenhouse or shade house can be a great way to get plants started ahead of time. For those unfamiliar with what certain seedlings look like, this can also be a great learning experience as you will see your seeds emerge in isolation from potential weeds.

Take note, however: root crops must be direct seeded. For example, carrots are a crop that absolutely must be direct seeded. Last year we experimented with transplanting some of the most productive carrot varieties on the market. They took well to the ground, but when harvest time came the roots were nearly universally twisted and and stunted.

Use specific planting instructions such as planting depth and days to germination to guide your seed starting. One thing holds pretty universal: keep seeds evenly moist throughout their germination period and during the earliest stages of their life. That’s when they are the most precarious and need the most attention.

If you are late starting plants from seed, consider heading to your local nursery to pick up some seedlings to make up for lost time. Seedlings at a nursery already have about two or three weeks of growth.

Some Useful Tools

Garden beds can be created and maintained in a number of ways, so a lot of the tools you use are a matter of personal preference.

Digging fork: one of the most useful and perhaps underestimated garden tools. We use this tool more than a shovel; a properly irrigated soil and digging fork can turn bare ground to garden beds in no time. This tool is also as effective as a shovel for harvesting root and tuber crops such as potatoes and sweet potatoes. The Radius Garden 20308 PRO Ergonomic Stainless Steel Digging Fork is a solid choice for its durability and ergonomics. If you are looking for a more classical design, we’ve also used the Spear & Jackson R410 English Style Heritage Forged Digging Fork, but be careful to not push this one too far because wooden handles can break under rock excavation that inevitably comes when using a digging fork. On the flip side, we’ve bent tines on the Radius digging fork before, so be sure to understand that every tool has its limits.

Long handed digging shovel: Pretty much your basic shovel for digging holes, removing rocks, and doing cultivation that a digging fork doesn’t allow. The Fiskars Long Handle Round Point Steel Digging Shovel is a great modern version of this tool. Its durable all-metal design is especially useful for rock excavation; just remember though, every tool has its limits. We’ve actually broken one of these trying to remove a large, deeply embedded rock.

Bow rake: great for removing small debris and final garden bed shaping – especially critical if you are direct seeding small seeded crops such as carrots and lettuce. We recommend the Seymour 17" Bow Rake.

CobraHead Weeder: an extremely versatile tool used for removing both surface and deeply rooted weeds and amending beds with fertilizer.

Grub hoe/eye hoe: great for removing large debris and weeds prior to preparing your soil for digging; can also help break up large clods of dirt. We recommend this SHW 5.5″ Grub Hoe from The Tool Merchants.

Square Point Transfer Shovel: a flat shovel used for creating and shaping raised garden beds. We recommend the Fiskars Ergo D-handle Steel Transfer Shovel. It’s inexpensive and its all metal design makes it extremely durable.

Fertility

Most soils require some form of nutrient amendment for proper vegetable growth. Adequate soil fertility is especially important in the autumn season, as once it gets colder, plants take up soil nutrients less efficiently. Inadequate soil fertility can lead to stressed plants, opening them up to greater predation, stunted growth, and in many cases, total crop failure.

The macro-nutrients every major vegetable crop requires are Nitrogen (N), Potassium (P), and Phosphorous(K). Any fertilizer purchased or sourced at a garden store will have NPK values. These reflect the percentage by weight of each nutrient included in the fertilizer. To determine the nutrients available in a given fertilizer, multiply one value of the fertilizer by its weight. For example, a 50 pound bag of fertilizer with a 10-10-10 NPK listing has 10% of each of these nutrients by weight.

Fertilizer application is an imprecise art for most of us. If you know your soil, you probably know just what to add. If you're unsure what you’re dealing with, amend plants modestly, observe and if plants seem like they are stunted, add more later. An easy to use store bought fertilizer is Down to Earth's All Purpose 4-6-2.

Something else to consider: organic fertilizers tend to break down slowly and provide a sustained amount of fertility throughout the season. However, if soil fertility is initially very poor, consider a faster releasing fertilizer, such as a liquid kelp (typically a water spray applied directly on the plants in cooler, overcast weather or toward dusk) or a blood meal. Fertilizer application is an imprecise art for most of us. If you know your soil, you probably know just what to add. If you are unsure what you’re dealing with, amend plants modestly.

Also consider side-dressing. Essentially, this means giving plants an additional dose of fertilizer halfway through their growing cycle. If you are applying fertilizer mid season, take note of a few things: organic fertilizers must make contact underneath the soil surface as they are not directly available to the plants: they must first go through the soil cycle whereby they are consumed by microorganisms that in turn make the nutrients available to plants. Apply fertilizer around the base of the plant and gently scratch it in using a tool such as the CobraHead weeder (discussed below). Do not scratch deeply as you may end up distributing or uprooting plants.

For those more interested in the topic of soil and fertility, we recommend the book Teeming With Microbes: A Gardener’s Guide to the Soil Food Web as a great entry level into the topic.

Season Extension

From June until through the winter solstice (typically around December 20th or 21st), most areas in the Northern Hempisphere lose about two minutes of daylength per day (for more precise information, consult the Navy’s daylight calendar). This means fall gardening is not only a colder but darker endeavor.

A great way to give your vegetables a little more time to grow in the autumn is to protect them from the cold months of October and November. Even modest cold protection goes a long way and also provides your plants refuge from some (but not all) common garden pests and even larger animals such as deer. Cold frames made of glass or heavy duty are a ubiquitous, and if you have a greenhouse you can also grow inside of it for the cold months, but for many these options are too expensive and laborious to set up – especially if you are getting a late start.

One inexpensive method are QuickHoops Low Tunnel Benders, which is a tool set that allows you to bend inexpensive electrical conduit available at any hardware store into the basis of a cold frame. You can place these frames about four feet apart along your garden bed and then cover them with a light frost cloth, such as agribon which is also inexpensive. Definitely invest in some method to anchor down the frost cloth to the ground once you are set up. Sand bags and sand work are an inexpensive option.Your bill of materials will run approximately $100-$150, but consider this: the hoops can be retrofitter with shade cloth in the summer to make it easier to grow cooler season crops such as lettuce.  

If you live in a warmer winter climate, this will help take your fall crops all the way through winter. If you live in a colder winter climate, this hoop house will not protect your crops from extreme cold, frost, and snow, but it may give you a few additional weeks of leafy greens.

Fall Garden Pests and Some Helpful Organic Solutions

Anyone who gardens organically or with low inputs has experienced plants becoming infested with aphids, eaten up by flea beetles, decimated by cabbage moths, and taken down by slugs and snails overnight. If you are commonly experiencing these issues, you are likely dealing with soil issues. Growing crops without the proper nutrients, placing them in too tight spacings, or growing the same crops consecutively in the same soil are common problems that precipitate some, but not all forms of predation. The best way to avoid pests is preventively: use adequate plant spacing, ensure adequate soil fertility, and anticipate problems before they happen.

If you do experience problems, here are some recommended treatment methods for common pests: These are all forms of pest management that are allowed under organic production.

Aphids: neem oil in a water solution sprayed directly on the plants can deter and kill modest aphid populations but is not very effective against outright infestations. Best to simply remove the effected plants.

Flea Beetle/pill bugs: lightly dust diatomaceous earth directly on plant leaves.

Cabbage Moth: Dissolve BT (bacillus thuringiensis) in a water solution and spray directly on plants. 

Slugs and Snails: apply granulated sluggo/iron phosphate on the ground near plants, or consider manual removal/relocation. Snail hunting at night is an gardeners favorite pastime..

Gophers: traps or physical barriers (raised beds lined with cages; gopher cages, black box trap)

A Final Note on The Harvest

Crops such as beets, cabbage, cauliflower are “one hitters” in the sense that they are harvested once and finished. These harvests are relatively straightforward. However, crops such as collards, kales, some types of broccoli, and even lettuces can be progressively harvested. Consider harvesting these crops at a more modest rate than you would during summer or spring months. Plant leaves don't regenerate as quickly in the fall and winter, and if over harvested they will have a much harder time regenerating. Be gentle to your plants in the autumn.

[adto-office-booth]

What is the difference between standard shade net and reflective shade net?

What is the difference between standard shade net and reflective shade net?

Standard shade net is an affordable, extremely durable means of protecting plants and crops from direct sunlight. A shade net is placed on the exterior roof of a greenhouse, cold frame, or high tunnel where it blocks a percentage of light from penetrating the building, hence keeping plants more comfortable. This type of shade material is appropriate for general gardening, farming, and greenhouse applications and is widely used in the commercial farming and gardening industry.

Which shade material should I use?

You can use shad net material according to your crop. Those shade material helps protect livestock, pets, plants, and people from direct sunlight and also works well as a privacy barrier or windscreen. Experience has shown that growers use mostly 50% to 75% density, with the high densities of 70% to 95% used in southern states and for light-sensitive plants in northern states.

Many people find that using a high-density shade on roofs and a lower-density shade on walls is a good method for creating ideal shade conditions. Vegetable gardeners should check with their local University Agricultural Extension office to determine the shade cloth density that is appropriate for both the climate and plant variety.

What does the shade percentage mean in relation to the shade material?

Shade density is determined by the percentage of light blocked by the shade. For example, the definition of 75% shade is that only 25% of light passes through it. A shade percentage of 30 to 75% is ideal for vegetables, while 90 to 95% is ideal for protecting people.

[yaorong]

All aspects of LED grow light planting in greenhouses need to be paid attention

Nowadays, growers who plant in greenhouses will choose to use LED grow lights to supplement light, and LED grow lights can improve plant planting efficiency. There are many aspects to pay attention to when using.

1. Reasonable collocation. When planting different varieties and different heights of vegetables in the greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account the direction of sunlight in the northern hemisphere, according to the principle of north high and south low, reasonable collocation, parallel arrangement of cotyledons when transplanting, and strict cultivation specifications. , The row spacing is consistent, which can make the plants grow neatly and minimize the shading of LED grow lights between plants.

2. Change the method of scaffolding. When cultivating cucumbers and kidney beans and other racking vegetables in a greenhouse, waste film can be used as a hanging rack instead of the racking, which can effectively improve the utilization rate of LED grow lighting. The method is to insert a 25 cm long bamboo stick along the top of the arch frame and insert a 25 cm long bamboo stick at the root of the cucumber and bean, then cut the old film into strips, and tie it vertically to the bamboo stick and iron wire, when the cucumber and bean are stretched out. After the vine, coil the vine on the old film strip, and then coil it every 5 to 7 days. If you need to set up a rack, use the approach of tilting the front row to the south, the middle row upright, and the rear row tilting to the north, which can increase the light utilization rate to about 10%.

3. Keep the shed film clean. It was investigated that a layer of water droplets attached to the canopy film can reduce the light transmittance to 30% to 50%; after the new film is used for 2 days, 10 days and 15 days, the light in the canopy can be reduced in turn due to dust. You should insist on cleaning the shed surface. You can tie a soft cloth strip to a wooden pole every morning after the straw curtain is opened in the greenhouse to clean the dust and debris on the plastic film shed surface, which can increase the light to more than 30%. But you insist. To reduce the water droplets on the shed film, you can use the shed film to cover; change the irrigation method, use the under-mulch irrigation method and hose for drip irrigation; clean the water droplets on the shed film with a clean rag in the morning; immediately release the air to reduce humidity after irrigation, etc. , Both have very good results. After it snows, the snow on the shed film should be cleared in time to increase transparency and light intake.

4. Uncover the curtains at the right time Properly uncover the curtains early and delay the curtains, which can prolong the sunshine time of the greenhouse. The curtains are usually uncovered 0.5 hour to 1 hour after the sun comes out. The time to cover the curtain should be half an hour before the sun sets, and the curtain should also be uncovered on a cloudy day in order to get the scattered light. The curtains are generally not opened when it is snowing, and can be opened after the weather turns clear.

5. Utilize the reflective curtain Use a 3 meter long and 2 meter wide aluminum-plated reflective curtain to hang on the upper end of the rear column of the plastic greenhouse, and the lower side is perpendicular to the ground. In this way, the ground can be brightened by about 20%, and the shed temperature can be raised to a certain extent, which is conducive to the healthy growth of vegetables. The silver-gray film on the ground can also increase the intensity of light between plants.

6. Choose Yaorong Technology LED grow lights, which can emit red light with a fixed wavelength of 610nm-720nm and blue light with a wavelength of 400nm-520nm. Among them, red light with a wavelength of 610nm-720nm can be absorbed by chlorophyll. 75%-85%, the red light of this wavelength is the synthesis of plant chlorophyll and has a significant impact on photosynthesis and photoperiod effects. Blue light with a wavelength of 400nm-520nm. Chlorophyll can absorb more than 90%. It is a strong band for plant growth and photosynthesis. The absorption ratio of chlorophyll and carotenoids is the largest. It can promote the growth and growth of crop roots. Decrease, the leaf and stem become thicker; make the crop strong, and the disease resistance ability is obviously enhanced.

Greenhouse planting solutions

(1) Reasonable light supplementation of LED grow lights is one of the important reasons that affect the harvest of vegetables in greenhouses. Vegetables will undergo photosynthesis under the irradiation of LED grow lights, so that the light compensation point of plants can reach and exceed, combined with the moisture, temperature, and temperature in the greenhouse. Humidity, etc. make plants grow better.

(2) Choose plant varieties for planting according to market demand. Choosing the right plant varieties is the first step to open the market. Reasonable use of different types of LED grow lights to fill light, and good time to market is an important part of occupying the market.

(3) One thing to pay special attention to is the air circulation problem in the shed. If the temperature in the shed is too high, it will cause moisture loss in vegetables and affect the growth of plants; when using LED grow lights, don’t worry about this problem, LED grow lights emit The heat is small and will not cause such problems.

LED grow light greenhouse planting advantages

High light efficiency and energy saving

The electro-optical conversion efficiency of LED grow lamps is more than 20 times that of incandescent lamps, 3 times that of fluorescent lamps, and nearly 2 times that of high-pressure sodium lamps. The application of LED grow lights can greatly reduce power consumption, thereby achieving energy saving.

Spectrum customization

LED grow lights can cover dozens of monochromatic lights with wavelengths. And can realize monochromatic light composite spectrum or full-spectrum white light through monochromatic light excitation phosphor powder, and realize the spectrum customization of different plants.

Adjustable spectrum

The LED grow lights with different light colors can be controlled separately to achieve the function of adjustable spectrum. At present, the adjustable spectrum plant lights on the market are mainly used for scientific research, and the plant lights with adjustable light intensity have been widely used in production.

Less fever

It can touch plants at close range without causing problems such as plant leaves and operators burning. Thanks to the low heat generated by LED grow lights.

long life

The theoretical life of LED grow lights is as high as more than 100,000 hours. Subtracting the influence of various factors, the lifespan of the LED grow light can be left with 50,000 hours. Compared with traditional plant lights, the light decay of LED grow lights after 36,000 hours of operation is still less than 10%. The fluorescent lamp usually has a light decay as high as 30% after 10,000 to 15,000 hours of operation.

Safer and more environmentally friendly

Compared with other traditional plant lights, LED grow lights have no mercury or other polluting elements, and are more energy-saving in terms of power saving. The power supply adopts waterproof male and female plug connections, and has the advantages of IP65 waterproof rating.

These make LED grow lights more popular in the market, and are deeply loved by greenhouse growers, industrial growers and plant research and planting units. The development trend of LED grow lights will get better and better in the future.

[astriddesign]

How to Start a Vegetable Garden from Seed

Starting your garden from seed?  It can seem like a daunting task, until you read some simple tips that can provide you with further guidance on your journey.  When I first started on this venture, in my community garden in Santa Monica back in 2008, I started with seeds.  At the time, I spent more time designing the spiral layout of my garden, rather than meticulously reading the backs of the packets or better yet picking up a local gardening book.  Granted I had been attending free gardening classes through Transition Town, but there was still a lot of science to understand.  Even experts are constantly reading up on how to best grow and support maximum plant growth. 

I had minor success and ended up buying starts.  Now, looking back 12 years later and a seed company under my belt, I can see where my shortcomings were and where I clearly failed.  

Gardening takes an understanding of some basic principals for optimal success, such as sun hours, soil, what you can grow,  when to plant and of course considering the critters that you share space with.

You will find two different kinds of seeds available at most nurseries, they will either be open pollinated (OP) or hybrid (F1).  Understanding the two will provide you the option for seed saving.  Open pollinated means that any seed you save and plant again, will result in the exact genetic of the parent plant.  Hybrids on the other hand are a completely different bag, as they were crossed with many other plants and will not breed true to type.  Heirlooms are often considered treasures as they have a name, a place and taste, coupled with compelling stories of their origin.  Heirlooms have been passed down and are usually over 50 years old and are open pollinated.  Hybrids will always be labeled as a hybrid or F1.  Both hybrids and heirlooms can be organic. 

Planting from seed provides you with plants that are more disease resistant and hardier. Growing from seed also opens you up to a larger offering of rare and heirloom plants, moreover you save money in the process.  Seed packets run about $3.50 and usually provide more seed than you need for a season and in some cases like tomatoes and peppers, you have enough seed for a few seasons.  There are small nurseries out there that provide wonderful starts that were grown with good soil and seed, unlike sourcing your starts from larger big-box nursery,   where starts were grown in large greenhouses where pathogens can easily linger and contaminate your seedlings.  

Understanding that seeds are a living breathing embryo helps you get a better understanding of what you are working with.  Seeds, innately have everything they need in order to create life.  They are constantly scanning their environment for a queue to begin germinating.  That is why temperature fluctuation, light, heat and moisture are detrimental to a seed.  Therefore never leave them in a hot car, by a heater or in the blazing sun.

Over the years of owning The Living Seed Company, I have realized that there are some simple tips for first seed sowers to understand in order for an optimal harvest. 

Understanding where you live and what you can grow, is the beginning of your journey in planning your garden.  Realistically not everyone can grow everything they want, due to a number of different factors such as sun hours, climate, space and critters.  Knowing who lives in your neighborhood and how to protect your garden from hungry friends is important.  Do you have vertical space you can use?  Taking advantage of vertical space is optimal when you are working in tight quarters.  Some plants grow vertically and others grow as a bush - knowing how your plants grow will help you plan your garden better.  Do not over-crowd your garden.  Initially, there will be a lot of room, but that room will quickly be filled up.  Plants, competing for nutrients will not thrive and will be more susceptible to disease and pests.

Choose a location that gets optimal sun, vegetables require at least 6 - 8 hours of direct sun.  A southern or southwestern exposure is ideal.  If you live in a hot climate and your garden receives a lot of sun, that is something you need to also take into account.  Using shade cloth can give your vegetables a break, during hot summer months.

What you are going to plant in is a consideration that will determine space and watering schedule.  There are many options such as in-ground gardens, pots, raised beds and alternative containers. What you fill those pots with is very important.  Vegetables need nutrients in the soil in order to thrive and produce nutrient-dense food. Familiarizing yourself with the many soil and compost options is a key to your success.   Knowing that the pots are made of and observe how quickly water evaporates is key to making sure your plants don’t fry in a black plastic pot (which I do not recommend), while you are at work.  Don’t forget to label your plants individually and take notes … trust me, you won’t remember.  

Once you have figured those key factors, begin by choosing varieties that you enjoy eating.  This is the fun part but starting small initially will prevent you from getting overwhelmed later on.  It is easy to get excited about all the great things that you want to grow, but gardens take time, energy, weeding, watering and maintenance. 

Plan your garden by how many people are in your household.  This will guide the quantity of plants and your need for planting in succession.  For example if you are a family of two and love eating salads every day, plant lettuce every week, so you always have fresh greens coming out of the garden.  The same could be said for the veggies like broccoli, cauliflower beans, herbs, etc.  Read the packet for guidance on what should be planted in succession and how often.  Once you get the hang of it, you will get into a rhythm.

Begin to understand how much fruit one plant provides.  For example, a tomato seed packet usually comes with 25 seeds.  You do not need 25 tomato plants, unless you have a very large household that loves everything tomatoes.  Usually a few tomato plants will suffice - perhaps a cherry, saladette and a slicer tomato?  Do the research, initially to begin to understand what your harvest will look like and how many plants you will need to feed your family. 

I usually recommend planting annual plants together and perennial plants together.  This facilitates things when you are clearing your bed, at the end of a season and can simply remove all your annuals together (perhaps tangled roots and all) and leave your perennials as is.  Annuals are plants that will not overwinter and will perish at the first frost.  Perennials, if properly cared for will return year after year.  Specific maintenance is beneficial to boast any nutrients that plant is requiring.   

Once you have mapped out your garden, what you are going to eat, begin to understand what seeds want to be planted indoors and kept in a warm dome with a heated mat and which ones want to be planted outdoors.  Plants such as tomatoes, peppers and golden berries, to name a few, want to be nursed inside, even if you live in a hot climate like Miami.  Other varieties like your root veggies, think carrots & beets, want to be directly seeded into the soil.  They do not want their roots disrupted and want to be able to send them down as soon as they are planted. For the seeds that you start indoors, it is key that they be hardened off.  This is a process that requires taking them outside, during the day, for a period of time before they are planted.  This acclimates your seedlings to the world outside, meaning the elements like the wind and sun.  One week minimum is recommended.  Just do not forget to bring them inside in the early evening.  We do it for several weeks to a month as this strengthens their stems and overall plant structure.  If you work from home and are able to keep in eye on them and constantly water them, we highly recommend this method.

Knowing your seed source is another key to a healthy garden.  Where are the seeds you are purchasing sourced from?  Many larger seed companies are sourcing overseas.  This means that the seeds are acclimated to a completely different zone.  There are family-owned or small seed companies, which usually grow their own seed and/or source it from good growers.  Whatever you do, avoid using seed that was taken from your favorite store-bought veggie.  Often times, these are hybrids and it may take months of caring for this plant, before you realize it is not what you were hoping it was going to be.  

Once you are ready to plant, don’t forget to keep the soil moist while the seeds are germinating.  This is a mistake that first time seed sowers make, including yours truly back in my LA garden.  Water is important to prevent your plants from wilting and using their energy to survive instead of thrive!  They also need even watering throughout most of their life.  Dry farming is an option if you are growing in the ground, have a high water table and think your veggies can reach it.  Nothing tastes better than a dry farmed tomato!

Seeds are sacred stories.  When you begin to unlock the magic of planting a garden from seed, it is hard to go back.  There is a mystery unfolding before you and it is the mystery of life.  A single seed can reproduce itself hundreds of times over - it is abundant and life-giving.  May your curiosity to plant a seed be piqued and may your life never be the same!

[sciencespies]

Teens feel the heat of climate change

https://sciencespies.com/environment/teens-feel-the-heat-of-climate-change/

Teens feel the heat of climate change

Credit: Wits University

In 2017, when the drought in Cape Town was at its worst in over a century, aid organisation Gift of the Givers made an urgent call to South Africans to help farmers; suicide rates, amongst both small- and large-scale farmers, had surged in the few months prior. This and other evidence paints a bleak future picture in the context of climate change, and southern Africa is one of the areas that will suffer the most.

Adolescent moody blues

So say Professor Matthew Chersich and Dr. Fiona Scorgie in the Wits Reproductive Health and HIV Institute (Wits RHI), who have been studying the effects of climate change on adolescents.

“Today’s youth will inherit a world made hazardous by greenhouse gases. The world’s temperature has already risen by 1°C above pre-industrial levels and, without major intervention, will rise a further 0.5°C by 2040. Heat waves and other extreme weather events have become frequent and intense. In southern Africa, temperatures are expected to rise at twice the global rate, creating virtually intolerable conditions for people in settings where buildings are poorly insulated and ventilated,” says Scorgie.

The effects are so severe, in fact, that Chersich predicts an increase in violence, mental health disorders, and suicide, as well as poorer matric pass rates, if nothing is done.

“Exposure to high temperatures alters one’s physiology, raising anxiety, depressive symptoms, irritability and aggression. People feel powerless when they have no means of keeping cool, when they can neither fight nor flee the hot weather. The effects will be most pronounced amongst those who can’t afford air conditioning and we have no idea how communities who are not acclimatised to high temperatures will cope with several days of 40 plus degrees in houses with tin walls and roofs, zero insulation, and no cold water.”

Diminishing the bright sparks

And when learners must write matric in overcrowded and stuffy prefabricated or shipping container-classrooms in hot weather, even the smartest will struggle, he says.

In Climate change and adolescents in South Africa: The role of youth activism and the health sector in safeguarding adolescents’ health and education, published in August 2019 in the South African Medical Journal, Chersich, lead author, says that while the Department of Basic Education mentions environmental factors such as ventilation and the hazards of non-brick structures in its school infrastructure standards, these have not yet been fully actualised.

“In many schools, classrooms are made of converted shipping containers or prefabricated sheeting with corrugated iron roofs. Most container classrooms have poor insulation, little natural ventilation and as many as 50 children in a class, who themselves generate a considerable heat load. In one study in Johannesburg, which has a relatively mild climate, temperatures reached as high as 47.5°C in the containers and the majority of students reported experiencing heat-health symptoms every day, including drowsiness, poor concentration and thirst.”

And even at much lower temperatures, the effects are profound. A meta-analysis of 18 studies calculated that students in classrooms with an indoor temperature of 30°C scored 20 percent lower on tests than those in classes around 20°C. “The performance of adolescents appears to be more heat sensitive than the performance of adults in occupational settings. Nevertheless, teachers exposed to high temperatures may also become lethargic and irritable. In classes with poor ventilation, levels of CO² or stuffiness rise together with temperature, and children experience symptoms that further affect concentration and learning,” writes Chersich.

A psychology of sustainability

Professor Andrew Thatcher, Chair in Industrial and Organisational Psychology at Wits, is currently researching the psychological factors around the adoption of sustainable technologies. So-called green buildings can increase productivity, he says.

“For our research, we looked at close to 20 buildings. Each of them was given an indoor environmental quality (IEQ) score out of 27 as determined by the Green Building Council of South Africa’s green building rating tool [GreenStar SA], which considers air quality, ventilation and ventilation rates, ambient temperature, noise and lighting. It’s incredibly difficult to get a perfect IEQ score, but those at the top end, with a score of 22-23 points, had productivity gains of 17 percent, which would translate to enormous improvements in large corporations, for example.”

And the solutions offered by IEQ principles aren’t restricted to corporate budgets. In container classrooms, simple adjustments could already make a difference, says Thatcher. “Orienting the container to avoid direct sunlight will help or placing it next to a tree for shade. A deciduous tree that offers shade in summer and loses its leaves in winter to let the sun in would also be a helpful solution in colder climates.”

Fresh air and flip-flops

Adding windows, he says, could make a crucial difference, referencing a Californian study. “The researchers hypothesised that daylight is an important component in classrooms. They measured performance in two southern Californian classrooms—one with big windows, one with small windows—and found that the kids with the bigger windows fared better, confirming [the researchers’] beliefs. But when they repeated the experiment in northern California, where it’s cooler, big windows made no difference. It turned out that daylight didn’t play a role in performance, but fresh air did—the classes in warmer southern California had their windows open.”

Scorgie and Chersich are awaiting funding to conduct a study measuring these and other impacts in South Africa, and to investigate how exposure to ambient heat impacts children’s health, wellbeing and educational achievement. “We will test whether these impacts—such as dehydration, heat exhaustion, lethargy and poor concentration—can be reduced by using low-cost, low-electricity cooling methods, including natural ventilation, the installation of fans on classroom walls, painting the classroom roof white, placing plants and cold water dispensers in the classroom, and wearing sandals and loose, single-layered, cotton clothing,” says Scorgie.

These measures could inform policy to mitigate climate change, says Chersich. “There is much that can be done using low-cost interventions and little electricity. We urgently need sensible public health initiatives and ground-up activism to start to undo the effects already occurring.”

Explore further

Are students getting enough air?

More information: M F Chersich et al. Climate change and adolescents in South Africa: The role of youth activism and the health sector in safeguarding adolescents’ health and education, South African Medical Journal (2019). DOI: 10.7196/SAMJ.2019.v109i9.14327

Provided by Wits University

Citation: Teens feel the heat of climate change (2020, January 17) retrieved 17 January 2020 from https://phys.org/news/2020-01-teens-climate.html

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