xiangyiwang1997

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PASSING THROUGH ARCHITECTURE: THE 10 YEARS (SHANGHAI NOV.)

GORDON MATTA-CLARK

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WINTER IN NEWCASTLE

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COMPANY STRUCTURE

Notes: I was not allowed to get in touch with some deeper information about the company, because of the confidentiality agreement. And the bigger company, like ICICLE, 1000-5000 people, is quite hard to get all the information of the business structure within 3 months.For DFO International, I am not sure about the departments which are in Spain,so I left it blank.

I have tried to put the one that I knew.  

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New season with new collections in ‘Mr. Porter’

Last winter collection online.

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Photo-shooting of KIMONO in Oct. in Shanghai

KIMONO photo shoots were done in a Shanghai Kimono Studio, in China. It was difficult to wear a properly by yourself. There is always a dresser to help people to dress up. Though I do very like them. And it is interesting that Kimono is similar to Chinese traditional dresses, because of historical influences.

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Photos of Lights Playing

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Summaries of my interns (Preen, CARVEN IN ICICLE, PAPER LONDON IN DFO SHOWROOM)

PREEN BY THRONTON BREGAZZI

INTRODUCTION

Preen is a designer brand which was found in 1996 by Justin Thronton and Thea Bregazzi. The dark romantic and effortless designs added the concept of comparing masculine with feminine, what made them different from the other designer brands. The vintage and punkish elements were shown in the whole collections. Since 2001, the Spring Summer London Fashion Show, it started to be known widely and popular. There are also some supporting from celebrities, such as Kate Bosworth, Beyonce, and Rihanna.

MY ROLE AND POSITION

I was doing my placement in Preen, as a creative studio intern which was supporting for the design department, from 2nd. Jan. 2019 - 3rd. Apr. 2019. Sometimes I might help the marketing department, and sales department in the showroom. Unfortunately, I did not get very clear about how the company running through the whole collection. It is because interns are not allowed to get in touch with some deeper information about the company, because of the confidentiality agreement. but I do know more about what is running through during a collection.

WHAT DID I DO DURING MY PLACEMENT?

Pattern cutting, and learning how to match the prints on the actual design while cutting the fabric

Recording and arranging the fabric in stock

Copying the last collection’s pattern designs and tailoring, for designers and pattern cutter to redesign

Doing toiles from last and current collections for designers, so that they could doing some changes

Learning the ways of cutting different types of fabrics

Purchasing some fabrics (for sampling) and accessories 

Arranging the pattern pieces for current and past collections

Do some trimming samples, as inspirations for designers

Supporting the backstage of Walk Show for Preen, during the London Fashion Week

Supporting the marketing department and sales department to set up the showroom for Preen and help consumers to choose their favor garments in the showroom

CREATIVE THINKING

Some techniques of gathering, plugging and draping could be used for my future design, as textures and details.

The draping could be widely used while I am doing my pattern cutting in the future.

The way of matching prints of the design could be applied, if I am going to do some prints designs in my collections.

During the showroom, I have learnt the way to display the collections.

CARVEN IN ICICLE

INTRODUCTION

ICICLE is a Chinese ethic brand which is found in 1997, they promote premium quality with simple tailor. It is also a company which covered brand operation, product development, manufacturing, retailing, and franchising. Usually they start their collection from manufacturing until selling. The high-class lifestyle for urbanite is what ICICLE are mainly promoted. So the high quality natural material and practicability are what they are focusing on.

CARVEN is a luxury french brand, and be found in 1945. Madam Carven created the brand CARVEN by her love in art and travel. They have their own special style, but acceptable for the whole world. It might be because of Madam’ Carven’ height, she prefers to design colthes for shorter girls/lady, especially for eastern ladies. Hence, in her works, a balance of multi-culture was formed in an international style.The mainly concept of the brand is elegance, quality, and easy-counter. However, CARVEN filed for bankruptcy protection in 2018, and it was brought by ICICLE in Autumn 2018. The first collection that CARVEN published after they were brought is the one which is promoted in 2019, CARVEN X ICICLE SS20.

MY ROLE AND POSITION

The internship was started on the 13th of May 2019, and finished on the 23th of  August 2019. I was working in the CARVEN Merchandising Department in Shanghai. So I was supporting my Merchandiser during the time, such as doing some researches in the markets. Sometimes, I might helped CARVEN design department and ICICLE department, as CARVEN was just brought by ICICLE, the design team might not have enough people, in Shanghai, to work through the whole programme. I have also supported the sell-in meeting, and base-at meeting. During the time, the relations of design and marketing was learnt, such as what the marketing team could support the design team. Similarly, I could not take lots of photos of my works and I did not know much deeper about the company, because of the confidentiality agreement. 

WHAT DID I DO DURING MY PLACEMENT?

 Helping the design team yo upload their technical drawing to their systems.

Researching some pictures as inspirations for designers

Helping them to record the information of their accessories, such as shoes and belts, and then doing the translations

Helping photographer to take photos of garments 

Recording and collecting the information of our competitors’ products, such as silhouettes, prices, and materials, for the merchandiser, so that she could provide enough information and ideals of design for designers

Supporting merchandiser to introduce the new collections in details, and then training the buyers 

Translating the promotion and the introduction of  the new collection

Supporting the sell-in meeting and base-at meeting

CREATIVE THINKING

From the marketing research, I could know what type of garments, fabric, and silhouettes were suitable and popular in the present season. So I could design for consumer for what they need. It is not just for designing but also for selling. 

Started to know more about the products and learning more knowledge about fabrics, technique.

The way of introducing the products and collections could be applied on mine, so my consumers could know and understand my designs. Sometimes it could encourage consumers to purchase, because they understood and trusted my products.

Getting notices of choosing fabric, it might limit the design. 

The way of taking photos of garments could be applied on the future design, so that I could shown what the special points of my works.

PAPER LONDON, IN THE SHOWROOM OF DFO INTERNATIONAL SHOWROOM

INTRODUCTION

DFO International Showroom is a fashion management and marketing development company in China. It was found in 2010. They supply some sell-in meeting and showroom for foreign and domestic designer brands in China. They also support some celebrities to borrow some garments from different brands, so these celebrities could take photos, and attend variety shows or some formal shows. The showrooms what they offered for brands are usually held during Shanghai Fashion Week.

PAPER London is a British designer brand, and be famous of their unique brand concept and luxe in simple tailor looks.Their designs were usually combined the contemporary art and classic silhouettes, that is what made them special. The dry, cool and simple feminine looks are mainly promoted. Their inspirations comes from the modern architecture, collocates with bright and cheerful colours, in steric structure silhouettes. Since the 1st walk show they have done in AW2015 Berlin Fashion week, the brand PAPER started to be famous among the fashion world. Their design owned the British Fashion Councils Contemporary Award, and be mentioned in VOGUE, Harpers Bazaar. There are also some celebrities worn by, like Jennifer Lopez, and Taylor Swift.

MY ROLE AND POSITION

I was supporting as a brand assistant of PAPER London in DFO showroom, during the Shanghai Fashion Week. It is started from 8th of October 2019,and finished on the 17th of October 2019. So basically I was helping the brand manager to promote the brand PAPER to consumers and help them to make orders from DFO, which means DFO was working as a middleman. After the showroom, I should give a sale summaries of PAPER. Our brand manager could track the orders and making further steps, such as payment and shipping. However, I was not allowed to get in touch with some deeper information about the company and taking the photos of my tasks, because of the confidentiality agreement.

WHAT DID I DO DURING MY PLACEMENT?

Introducing the brand and collection to consumers, and some medias

Helping consumers to make order during the sell-in meeting in the showroom

Recording the consumers’ information, such as the place where they come from, and name of their stores

Summarizing and making forms of the orders

CREATIVE THINKING

From these consumers, there would be a generally understanding of Chinese market. The place where these consumers come from, the price range they could accept, and the styles they might prefer could be influence my future design. So I could acknowledge and target my consumer group more accurately.

The way of communication among consumers were learnt. Different people might prefer different ways of communicating, so they could understand the brand and product. 

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New trend, from virtual world?

With the increasing of ‘fashion wear’ brands and more sporty elements presentation during the Fashion Show, such as sneakers are presenting on the walk, more sporty jackets or outfits were showing in the new collections, it is obviously shown that these brands are trying to attack younger consumers, so that they would not be left behind. 

In December, the art director ‘Nicolas Ghesquiere’, by Louis Vuitton, designed a fashion ‘skin’ for a character for selling, Qiyana, from ‘League of Legends’, during an international eSports competition of  ‘League of Legends’----‘S9′. At thee same time, Louis Vuitton also published a ‘champion box’ for the game as well, which actually attracted more younger people to come and purchase. The price of the ‘skin’ which they designed was increased to 9500 USD. 

From the research, eSport became one of the most potential sports, and it is popular among the whole world. And the most players are males. Their average age would be between 25-30 years old, or even lower the 25 years old, which is the most of brand’s targeted young consumer group. In the virtual world, people always forget who they are,there are less difference of their culture and nationalities, and they are also prefer to accept the new things. That means these players could share the same interests of luxuries or luxury brands of the global purchasing. It is also similar to the ‘lipstick effect’, which is these buyers could buy something that they could offer from the luxury brand, such as the ‘skin’ of game characters, the sanctification for consumers could be given. As they are starting to get in touch with luxury brands, these loyal consumers, from games, could become actual,or true, consumer in the real world one day. 

Similarly, Nicolas Ghesquiere have been used the main character from ‘Final Fantasy XIII’ as a prolocutor of SS2016 Lousi Vuittion.

The brand ‘Heaven Gala’ also published their new collection which they were doing crossover with JX3, a popular Chinese online-game. 

It is amazing and creative which could be fully applied on my future design. Some Chinese embroideries, pattern, some Buddhist elements and some elaborate metal accessories......

There are also some figure drawings form JX3.

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Interests of garments and outfits in Dior 2020 Autumn menswear collection

The collection of Dior 2020 Autumn Menswear is published on 3rd of December,2019 in Miami, USA. To continue the enthusiasm of art, by the brand concept of DIOR, the collection is designed in a more creative way. In this collection, the art director, Kim Jone, of DIOR, and Shawn Stussy were attended. The logo of ‘DIOR’ was redesigned in the way of street graffiti. A new and distinctive prints were designed. 

The inspiration came from the brand’s high counter and classic workshop technology. The completed new design and detailed embroideries, beading, and luxury fabric with excellent tailoring, added some fancy design elements, were used to form a causal but formal, playful but without overstreeing style. 

The silhouettes of menswear was designed by compromising the American and French style, a spark of cross-culture was shown. Some floral prints, python prints, grids and strips, met with the iconic ‘DIOR OBLIQUE’ prints, a balanced beauty was created unexpectedly. Bright wood red, ocean blue and warm orange collocated with light and elegant color tone, which could met the style of decorative art architecture in Miami.   

The easy and comfortable styles were running through the whole collection, a new elegant style was given. It could fully used on my future design, as I was trying to combine the formal and causal ideals together. It could be similar to the brand concept of CARVEN, where I had done my 3-month-internship, ‘easy-counter’.

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Interests of garments and outfits in Dior 2020 Spring menswear collection

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Conversation: LANVIN 130 years (Fosun Foundation in Shanghai)

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Conversation: LANVIN 130 years (Fosun Foundation in Shanghai)

Fosun Foundation is a place where was built recently in Shanghai. It is a art center which is used to promote the contemporary art and try to combine the the arts in China and abroad. It is also a place where artist could shown their works. The building was designed by Foster+Partners and Heatherwick Studio, outside of the building, there are triple movable golden ‘curtain’ which could bring the sense of high level and uniqueness.

There is a showroom for LANVIN in Shanghai, which is called Lanvin 130 YRS.

Lanvin is the one of the oldest brand in Paris, and found in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin. As Madam Lanvin hold her own fashion way, the brand’ s contemporary art and elegance was continued.

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Baltic Gallery in Newcastle (Dec.)

Bright colors are widely used. Most of works are expressing the authors’ emotion and the attitudes of their life.

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Sourcing (of fabric)

The fabric could highly influenced the looks and characters of garments. Sometimes the choosing fabric could represent the brand, such as ICICLE, which I had done my 3-month-internship. Organic silk, plant dyes yarn, and plant dyes wool and cashmere, was widely used in their design, that is also made ICICLE to be identified, environmental friendly, ethic fashion in ICICLE. And CARVEN, as a french luxury brand, was brought by ICICLE. Although the most of fabric which have chosen by CARVEN are man-made fiber, there are more ‘natural’ fabrics were used in their new collection, like full cotton or full silk or full wool, since CARVEN was brought by ICICLE.

The choosing of the fabric could be effected by the season, for example linen and silk is more popular in high summer, July and August; but cotton and woolen are more popular from the end of  winter to the start of summer, January ad February.

There are some sourcing, fabric and the store, what I have found during the my placement year. Most of them are found when I was in Preen, but some were got from Shanghai, suppler of ICICLE. There are also some samples which I have attached in the book, and they are summarized.

Although some of these suppliers are highly charged, their qualities are perfect, such as some nice woolen in SYSTEM, HOLLAND AND SHERRY; nice silk from PONGEE. 

I do believe that these could help be to set up my future design.

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Interests of garments and outfits in Dior 2020 Spring menswear collection

As the inspiration of Christian Dior’s favor nature and art, the 2020 Spring Menswear collection, by Kim Jones. From the interesting Mr. Dior’s garden, The tailoring of the design is combined with floral design. And added a concept of ‘Fancy Woman’ into the design. The double-characters of the brand was shown: past and future, light and dark, formal and causal, with the traditional tailor of menswear and high counter of the lady’s softness. 

There are some drawings of the collection’c outfits and details which I am interested.

The logo of the ‘dior’ was redesigned and made into new patterns for the collection. There are also some new matching of different outfit, elegant but light, which is what I am looking for. Some feminine details, floral prints, were applied as well. The concept and ideals could help me for my future designs.

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Garments and outfit drawing ( ‘DIOR’ new classic menswear suits series)

It is a new ‘Dior’ classic menswear in suits series which is made by the art director in ‘Dior’ menswear, Kim Jones. The outstanding crafts and the concepts of high couture were shown. And different details could given out different elegant temperament.

Several figures would drawn which could shown how the garments look while people was moving, with details given.

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Dun Huang Culture (Dun Huang Grottoes)

As it mentioned before, mainly grottoes were used for monks and Buddhists to workshop or practicing, so there are some frescoes and sculptures  were made in these caves. The technique, especially in frescoes, there is some big differences during the dynasties.

In early years, in Sixteen Kingdom, the earliest frescoes which have been found out., the figures what were drawn  are rough and simple, but there are some colors were used. The Bodhisattva was drawn in different positions, vividly, but there are less details shown. And it might because Buddhism comes from India, it was the time when Buddhism just arrived and be accepted in China, these figures look like Indians. ( And now Chinese Buddhism is bit different form the Indian  Buddhism.)

And I have drew and  copied some figures, from the frescoes, the pictures from the book (we are not allowed to take photos in Caves), on the tracking paper and tried to recreate them. From the drawing, there are some thick lines used for outline of bodies, and there is amlost no details on their faces and garments.

These figures were fitted, light and slim.

 Since ‘ Western Wei’ Dynasty (555-536), there were not only Bodhisattva, but also some human, animals and Apsaras were drawn. They have been more detailed, and a balance of nature and human was shown. In ‘Northern Zhou’ Dynasty (570-580), there were some statues were created, when Chinese Gods met Buddhist culture. Some landscapes were shown as well, and the figures were drawn in a more feminine way.

It was started from ‘Sui’ Dynasty (581-618), the figure were plumper, it might be influenced by the currently culture and appreciation, and the Avabkitesvanna and Asparas were more feminine. The lines are thinner and more flowing. There were more details on their faces and garments, and there are more decorations shown. 

For the sculpture, the garments have shown are mainly in pleated and dropping details. That is similar to the toilering what I have done in Preen.

 A soft, flowing and light feeling was given.

It could be referring to the style of ‘ Belle Epoque’ in Europe, in 1927. 

Delphi pleated skirt, it was designed by Mariano and his wife, in 1920, which is a pleated slim dress. The dress was made by the hand-pleated silk, so that makes the dress be more fitted to ladies’ body.

Although it is used to design on womenswear, it could be applied on menswear, as Bodhisattva were all males.