wafflepatterns

[wafflepatterns]

It's Winter sale time!

Enjoy special discounts on all paper and digital sewing patterns until 2nd December (CET). No discount code needed. Don't miss out!

**********************

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[wafflepatterns]

New sewing pattern <Kikyo> 3-in-1 Jacket

A new item is just released from Waffle Patterns. Meet the 3-in-1 Jacket <Kikyo> sewing pattern. This is a set of 3 items; an outdoor style jacket + zip-in/zip-out removable hood + zip-in/zip-out removable liner. Convenient and fun utility item for your trip, outdoor activity or daily use for all seasons!

You can make only an unlined utility jacket or a full set of items.

<design options>

-Jacket The jacket is unlined with a zipper+button opening. There are a lot of functional pockets. Please mix and combine the pocket designs as your usage.

The waist pockets have 2 kinds of hand-warmer layer designs. One is easy to sew patch type, and one is a welt type. The chest pocket designs are 2 types, too; flap+patch or zipper type.

My personal favourite is the zipper pocket on the chest and the sleeve pocket. I find they are very handy. I always put important things here like keyholders.

There are other functional details like a back belt, sleeve pleats, or shoulder tabs. You can skip some details.

The fit is loose-regular for room of the removable liner.

-Removable Liner The liner is zip-in / zip-out type. You can attach it to the shell at the front facing with zippers supported by small buttons and elastic loops.

It has a pocket and you can use as an inside pocket.

Of course, you can skip the liner. But it is very fun to add! And pretty easy to sew compared to the shell.

Btw, it is not really impossible to wear this liner as a jacket, especially if you make both inside and out clean. But the front area of the fitting goes off, so I do not recommend it officially.

-Removable Hood The zip-in / zip-out removable hood is lined and has a front button opening. You can attach it to the shell at the neckline on the collar by a zipper. The zipper is attached to the inside of the hood, so the hood layer comes outside of the garment. I found it is functional because when it rains, the rainwater should not sit between the layer of the Collar and hood. It has a string, but you can skip this.

Please make your creative style by mixing your favourite details!

<fabric recommendation>

<Shell> The pattern is drafted for woven fabrics. Light to medium weight durable but not too stiff woven jacket fabrics are recommended. like denim, gabardine, twill, canvas, etc.

Please consider the fabric with some body because it has to support the removable liner.

If your fabric is very thick/stiff, please consider using other lighter fabrics partly to avoid the thick layers, like pocket flaps or layered pocket parts.

Please choose a suitable one for your design intention and how you want to wear it. I strongly recommend checking with actual samples.

<Lining for shell> The hood and the pocket bags use lining fabric. Normal lining fabrics like plain cotton or acetate will work, but functional ones like quilted or faux fur will be fun, too.

<Removable liner> The liner constructed from; -Lining fabric(outside) -Thermal lining fabric (inside when you wear)

-Lining fabric(outside) Light weight lining fabric with a smooth texture will work like plain cotton or acetate etc.

-Thermal lining fabric (inside when you wear) Consider fabric like thin quilt, light weight fleece, flannel, or light faux fur, etc.

I recommend avoiding too heavy fabrics which cannot be supported by the shell. I made one with boiled wool. It is very warm but a bit heavy. A thick quilt may be too much volume. If you want to go with a volumy liner, maybe going 1-2 size up is a better idea.

For flannel and fleece versions, I used slippery fabric for the sleeve parts of the inside liner for comfort, but maybe no need to do that depending on your intention. If you use thick or fluffy fabric and worry about comfort about this part, please remember slippery fabrics are a safer choice.

<Sample fabrics in the photos> Here is a fabric list I used for the samples. I could not get all the shops which I bought from because some are too old or from wholesalers.

- Brick orange x plaid Shell ; cotton mixed twill Liner (thermal inside) ; wool mixed flannel Liner (outside) ; plain cotton lining

- Yellow sample Shell ; light weight water repellent outdoor fabric (from kniphal.nl) I think it is not for garments originally, but not very thick so it still worked. Liner (thermal inside) ; thin pre-quilted (thin insulation like under 80g backed with satin) Liner (outside) ; plain cotton lining

- khaki sample Shell ; cotton mixed twill (from nnstoffen.nl) Liner (thermal inside) ; light fleece (from nnstoffen.nl) Liner (outside) ; plain cotton lining

The fabric choice all depends on your design intention and how you want to wear it. I strongly recommend checking with actual samples as much as possible. Also researching store bought jackets will help your ideas.

<Size>

The fitting is loose-regular. I made just size for the yellow and khaki, but the orange one is one size smaller because the liner is thinner. I strongly recommend making a muslin for perfect fit. Some of my testers made 1 size larger with a mid-weight liner. If you use very fluffy volumy liner or want to wear thick sweater underneath, maybe considering 1-2 size larger is a good idea.

<Other materials>

-Zipper for attaching the liner I used general width (about 28mm) plastic teeth zippers. Because 2 zipper tapes come on the R-side facing(see the 1st photo), wide type zippers are not suitable.

-Zipper for attaching the hood This part is curved, so should be flexible. I used plastic teeth type and have no problem. Maybe some coil types are more flexible. But, I avoided coil type because I broke them often for some reason (maybe only me?)

Also, this jacket comes with many zipper tapes, I prefer plastic type because of the light weight.

-Other I attached the tabs on the pocket flaps. Those are pieces of folded twill tape(keperband).

<Other>

-Because the jacket is unlined, I finished the most seams with flat fell seam. If you do this, maybe it is better to add extra 2-3mm to the seam allowance. Some parts are not suitable for flat fell finish like bulky parts or armholes. I used bias tapes for armholes, and serger for bulky parts(like front yoke with flap).

-If you do not like visible zipper tapes, you can add twill tape or folded strips of shell fabric over the zipper tape.

-Some store bought jackets with a zip-on hood use a placket over the zipper. I think it is suitable if your fabric is thin. (I tried one and find too bulky)

********************* The sewing pattern includes 18 pages of instructions and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or US letter) and copyshop(A0 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The 3-in-1 Jacket -Kikyo- (size 32 - 54) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 14th Oct. 2024 (CEST) with other popular patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer for Paper pattern and free shipping Paper pattern + PDF option is available limited time. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instruction by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

**********************

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[wafflepatterns]

Meet new sewing pattern <Komugi> Over shirt

A new item is just published from Waffle Patterns. Meet Over shirt <Komugi> sewing pattern, a work wear style over shirt with many functional pockets. Depending on your fabric and design choice, it will be a work shirt, uniform-like service shirt or outdoor style shirt jacket. You can make just a simple shirt as well.

<design options>

View A features a hidden button stand front opening + patch side pockets + an inside pocket. The patch side pockets are 2 types ; side opening or layered type. The cuff is no-opening design.

View B has a normal button stand + seam pocket + back bent and cuff opening.

The chest pocket design has 2 options, layer type or zipper pocket.

View A is intended as non-scratch design suitable for a work shirt especially if you are working on fragile things. View B can be made as a more outdoor-like shirt jacket with details like cuff openings or a vent. But of course you can choose and mix the options as you like!

The khaki sample in the photos features viewA, and the red plaid one is view B. The caramel brown one has mixed features.

My favourite feature is the sleeve patches. Adding compliment textures/colours is really fun! But you can sew without them, too.

Please make your creative style by mixing your favourite details.

<fabric recommendation>

The pattern is drafted for woven fabrics. Light-medium weight durable shirt fabrics are recommended. like corduroy, duck, twill, denim, linen, flannel, light wool or canvas etc.

It is not impossible to use very light drapery fabric, but those are not suitable for some details like patch pockets or vent.

Also, some very thick/stiff fabrics might not work well for details like pockets with facing. In that case, please consider using other lighter fabrics partly like the inside yoke, facing, or pocket parts.

Please choose a suitable one for your design intension.

For the caramel brown sample in the photos, I used cotton canvas. Suitable for work shirts and very easy to handle. The contrast fabric used for the sleeve patch and pocket layer is faux suede.

If you want very durable patches, leather or rubber-mixed fabrics are used for professional work apparel. But for general daily usage, like mine, design oriented choice like nice compliment colours or textures will be enough. Using leftover or old clothes is a fun choice, too.

The khaki sample is cotton ripstop. This one is also very suitable for work wear. The patch part is mixed twill.

The red plaid one is light wool backed fleece. I backed all the pieces with fleece except the folded parts like pocket openings or hem.

I bought all those fabrics from my local fabric market, but most of them are from years ago. I wanted to share where I bought them, but I actually forgot all.

I think light water repellent or windproof fabrics are nice functional options, too.

<Size>

The shirt is drafted regular fit.

I made on size bigger the red plaid sample because I wanted to wear this as a jacket. Also because the fabric gets thicker with fleece backing.

The caramel brown and khaki samples were made with just fit size.

<Other material>

If you attach the hidden button stand design, it is better to use flat and thin buttons for clean look opening.

*********************

The sewing pattern includes 18 pages of instructions and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or US letter) and copyshop(A0 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The over shirt -Komugi- (size 32 - 54) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 13th Mar 2024 (CET) with other popular patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer for Paper pattern and free shipping Paper pattern + PDF option is available limited time. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instruction by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

**********************

follow me!  Instagram /// Facebook /// Shop /// Pinterest /// Newsletter

[wafflepatterns]

8th February is a small festival Hari-Kuyo day in my mother country Japan. We give thanks to our broken pins and needles and make a wish for our skill up of sewing. 

For celebrating Hari-kuyo, I want to have a mini sale like every year. Popular patterns are special sale price 8-9th February(CET). No discount code required!

Happy sewing!

**********************

follow me!  Instagram /// Facebook /// Shop /// Pinterest //// Etsy Shop /// Newsletter

[wafflepatterns]

It's Winter sale time!

Enjoy a special discount on all paper and digital sewing patterns until 27th November (CET). No discount code needed. Don't miss out!

**********************

follow me!  Instagram /// Facebook /// Shop /// Pinterest /// Newsletter

[wafflepatterns]

Meet new sewing pattern <Kanoko> Tote bag set

Meet the new item from Waffle Patterns Tote bag set <Kanoko> sewing pattern. This is a fun and functional tote bag 3 sisters set with many pockets. All sizes are perfect for daily use. Please make your favourite size with your favourite fabric. Those can be made with a relatively small amount of fabric, so, it is also nice to use your leftover fabrics from your stash.

<design options>

3 sizes are available; L - grocery size, M - commuter size, and S - accessory size. The grocery size is quite large and enough for supermarket or fabric shopping. The commuter size is suitable for daily use and the size for about 10″ iPad and other small things like a make-up pouch, wallet, or snacks. The accessory size is a very cute mini size for small staffs like a lip balm or candy.

L and M are basically the same design. Both have large 3D-shaped pockets on the front, side pockets with pleats, and a small pocket on the back. There are 2 kinds of functional inside pockets, too. There are 2 options for the opening. The L size sample shows magnet fastener + strap + side release buckle opening. The M sample features a zipper opening. You can add a shoulder strap on M size.

S size has also front/back and side pockets and a very small inside pocket. The closure is a magnet/snap fastener and an inside closure with tape+button.

<fabric recommendation>

The pattern is drafted for woven fabrics. Mid-heavy weight woven durable fabrics are suitable. like duck, twill, denim, linen, canvas or décor weight fabric etc. I think waxed fabrics or water repellent outdoor fabrics are great options, too. For the lining, plain cotton or linen will be a good option.

Depending on your fabric and your design intention, please consider using additional interfacing on the bag panels for adding extra strength or body.

Here are my sample’s materials.

The shell fabric of smoky pink samples is mixed twill. I wanted to add body on M size, so I used woven mid weight interfacing on bag panels. For L size, I only use interfacing on the facing parts to keep it light weight. I also made a sample of M size with mid weight denim + fusible fleece combo for stable shape.

The red and yellow plaid set are made with wool coating. Those are all leftover of my winter projects. I used woven interfacing on the panels on the M size. The lining is plain cotton.

Again, please consider the material combination depending on your fabric and design intention.

<other materials>

The samples are using 30mm~40mm webbing for the handles and straps. If you cannot find perfect colour or width, making those with contrast fabrics are the option.

I used the shoulder strap from ready made bags, but you can make them by yourself, too.

For additional strength, I added the plastic plates on the base of M and S size. The special materials for the bag base are sold at notion stores, but I used plastic plate cutting from old clear files and ice cream package.

Please choose suitable materials/parts for your design and shell fabrics. I strongly recommend checking actual material samples as much as possible and experimenting your fabrics before start the project.

<other>

For smoky pink samples, I used twill tape on the pocket opening of side and back pockets for strengthen and as a design accent. It is also good option if your fabric is too stiff or thick.

********************* The sewing pattern includes 17 pages of instructions and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or US letter) and copyshop(A0/A1 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The Tote bag set -Kanoko- (3 sizes) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 13th June 2023 (CEST) with other popular patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer +17.5EUR for Paper pattern and free shipping Paper pattern + PDF option is available with plus 17.5EUR. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instructions by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

**********************

follow me!  Instagram /// Facebook /// Shop /// Pinterest //// Newsletter 

[wafflepatterns]

8th February is a small festival Hari-Kuyo day in my mother country Japan. We give thanks to our broken pins and needles and make a wish for our skill up of sewing. 

For celebrating Hari-kuyo, I want to have a mini sale like every year. Popular patterns are special sale price until 9th February(CET). No discount code required.

**********************

follow me!  Instagram /// Facebook /// Shop /// Pinterest //// Etsy Shop /// Newsletter

[wafflepatterns]

Meet new sewing pattern <Mitsuba> Puffer jacket

A new item is just released from Waffle Patterns. Meet Puffer jacket <Mitsuba> sewing pattern. , a patchwork style puffer jacket keeping you warm. Choose from a stand collar or a hood and combine long or short lengths with your favourite colours and patterns. It can be very solid winter gear with many functional design options as well.

<design options>

View A features a short length + a hood. The pockets are welt-type on both sides.

View B is a long length + a stand collar design featuring welt-type chest pockets and side patch pockets.

There are other functional features like hem/hood strings, knit cuff, or inside pocket which you can combine with both views. Of course, you can make it without them, too.

The basic design is a very simple with regular-loose fit line. But the bodice/sleeves are patchwork style, so you can make your creative style or just make it solid.

<fabric recommendation>

The main parts are layered with the shell fabric and the insulation materials. You can use pre-quilted fabrics for skipping the backing steps.

<shell>

For the shell, light-mid weight woven jacket/coat soft fabrics with some body are suitable ; like thin coat fabric, wool, gabardine, twill, canvas.

For the yellow gradation sample in the photos, I used light weight cotton-mixed twill in three different colours. The light beige one is not from the same series fabric as the other colours, just because I cannot find it with the perfect colour. But the weight and the texture are very similar.

The smoky pink sample’s shell is wool mixed twill. A bit heavier than the yellow one, but soft enough for the backing.

I bought all those shell fabrics from my local fabric shops here; yellow gradation type from jansikkes.nl smoky pink sample from aboeken.nl

The navy plaid sample is from thin wool which I got years ago. This sample is preproduction, some details are different from the final design.

I think light water repellent or windproof fabrics are nice functional options. But for real water/windproofness for extreme weather, Mitsuba jacket has too many seamlines (because it’s designed for colour blocking effect) so I think some modifications are needed for the purpose.

<insulation material>

Mitsuba jacket uses two weights of insulation materials; mid-heavy type for the bodice/sleeve parts and light weight one for the small parts like pocket welts, zipper guard. But depending on your fabrics and design intention, maybe no need to use different types. Many insulation materials are available in many names. Here are some products which I actually used for the sample making and other my personal puffer item projects. All are enough warm for The Netherlands’ winter.

polyester fiberfill 100g/m for the smoky pink sample and other personal project like this. I used this fiberfill double layered for the bodice/sleeve parts and single layer for the small parts. I found this type of insulation is available almost all fabric/notion stores in very reasonable price like 3-4 euro/m. So, I think it is an efficient option to use this with layered on some parts.

polyester fiberfill 200g/m   I also tried to use this thicker type. I found mine was way too stiff for the garments, maybe because the thicker type is glued. I think the stiffness will depend on the product, so I recommend to check actual sample before use.

Vlieseline Volumevlies R200, R80 I used these for the yellow gradation sample, heavy R200 for the bodice/sleeve parts, light R80 for welts and zipper guards. Those are a bit costlier than poly fiberfill, but much easier to handle. I found it is worth the price.

There are a lot more options for insulations like Dacron, alpolux, isosoft, 3M thinsulate etc etc. Since poly fiberfill is warm enough for me, I did not try those. But outdoor fabric shops have more professional ones for more extreme weather. So please try to find your perfect materials as your intention. For really extreme weather, adding an under lining to the shell will be an option.

Generally, light/soft shell fabric x heavy insulation makes more puffer look and mid weight shell fabric x lighter insulation makes sharp/stable style.

Please choose suitable one for your design and actual shell fabrics.  I strongly  recommend checking actual material samples as much as possible and experimenting your fabrics before start the project.

<using pre-quilted fabrics>

There are a lot of pre-quilted fabrics available recently. Using them can skip backing steps and make the process faster. If your pre-quilted fabrics are very thick, please consider using a contrast fabric for some parts like facings or pocket welts etc. It depends on your fabrics and design intention, again I recommend testing actual materials.

<lining>

I used the normal lining for the winter jackets, did not need to use special linings because it’s warm enough with batting. The lining pattern is intended for normal lining fabrics. If you want to use winter lining like faux fur, fleece, or flannel, please consider modifying the details. Here is the blog post about making winter coat. https://blog.wafflepatterns.com/post/167771075466

<other>

-I could not tried it, but I think it is possible to use non insulated fabric for the shell. I expect that the silhouette will be different and the neck line is a bit too loose.

-If you use the fabric which cannot be interfaced or do not need to be interfaced, please skip them depending on your case. If you need stability for some parts like zipper parts, please use tape or ribbon instead of the interfacing.

*********************

The sewing pattern includes 18 pages of instructions and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or US letter) and copyshop(A0/A1 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The Puffer jacket -Mitsuba- (size 32 - 52) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 10th Jan 2023 (CET) with other popular patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer +13EUR for Paper pattern and free shipping

Paper pattern + PDF option is available with plus 13EUR. Shipping worldwide. But please note that, in the current situation, all the shipments are affected by the measure of COVID-19. There might be some shipping delays or accidents. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instructions by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

*In the sale period, the shipping of the paper pattern starts 11th Jan 2023.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

**********************

follow me!  Instagram /// Facebook /// Shop /// Pinterest //// Newsletter 

[wafflepatterns]

It's Winter sale time!

We are offering special discount on all paper and digital patterns until 28th November (CET). No discount code needed. Don't miss out!

*In the sale period, the shipping of the paper pattern starts 29th Nov. 2022.

**********************

follow me!  Instagram /// Twitter /// Facebook /// Shop /// Pinterest //// Etsy Shop /// Newsletter

[wafflepatterns]

Meet new sewing pattern <Kaede> Utility apron / Tool belt

A new item is just released from Waffle Patterns. Meet Utility apron / Tool belt <Kaede> sewing pattern. You can choose a bib apron type or tool belt with many useful pockets and functional parts!

Please freely mix and combine the design options as you like and make functional gear for sewists, gardeners, carpenters, makeup artists, florists, or all cool creative workers!

<Design options>

View A is an apron type with a bib and the apron is slightly longer than View B. The bib pocket has a layer and pen holder. There is a large layered pocket on the center of the apron and useful cargo pockets, zipper pockets, and hanger loops are on the side parts.

View B is a tool belt type with belt loops, and slightly shorter than View A. The center pocket has one more layer for the artist tool pocket where we can store brushes, seam rippers, or any other stick-shaped equipment. It features belt loops&belt. you can make a belt for this or use a belt you already have. Also, it can be changed to View A type of belt.

My personal favourite is the detachable tool pocket. If you want to make this, please attach the hunger loop or belt loops/belt for attaching it.

Please mix and match the options for your design intention and materials.

<fabric recommendation>

The pattern is drafted for woven fabrics. Mid-heavy weight durable fabrics like duck, twill, denim, linen, or canvas will be suitable.

Some very thick/stiff fabrics might not be suitable for details like double folded edge or flap etc, because of the thickness of fabric layers. Please consider proper finishes for your material or try to use a contrast fabric for some parts.

I partly used folded nylon tape instead of the double folded pocket opening edges on the sample. Depending on the fabric, maybe this is a good option for the hem, too. Also, I used a contrast fabric for the facing on the gray sample and skip interfacing on some parts, because the shell is quite stiff.

The salmon pink sample was made with mid-weight cotton duck, I made other workwear series with this like Anzu or Azuki. I bought it at local traveling fabric market years ago. Since the construction is like chambray or dungaree, similar fabrics may be found in coloured denim section.

The gray sample is a teflon-coated outdoor fabric. It’s a bit stiff for clothing but perfect for this item. This fabric is also from my local fabric market years ago.

I want to make another one with oil clothes, raw denim or nylon ripstop if I can find nice fabric.

<Other material>

The samples are using durable webbing tape for the belt and neck straps etc. Those tapes and parts like adjusters are sometimes found in bag making material section at stores. If you cannot find perfect materials, make the tape from a shell or contrast fabric of the same width.

<Size>

3 sizes XS/S, M/L, and XL/XXL are available. As for choosing your size, I recommend referring to the finishing measurement, too. I think some people like to use a tool belt of a smaller size. In that case, please choose a smaller size, then adjust the length of the belt and neck strap to fit your body. If you use the apron over jackets or outers, a larger size will be the option. Since the pattern is quite flat, those are suitable for men, too. The length might be too short. If you want to lengthen, off-setting the hem is the easiest way.

*********************

The sewing pattern includes 15 pages of instructions and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or US letter) and copyshop(A0/A1 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The Utility apron / Tool belt -Kaede- (size XS - XXL) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 12th Sep 2022 (CEST) with other popular patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer +12EUR for Paper pattern and free shipping Paper pattern + PDF option is available with plus 12EUR. Shipping worldwide. But please note that, in the current situation, all the shipments are affected by the measure of COVID-19. There might be some shipping delays or accidents. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instruction by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

*In the sale period, the shipping of the paper pattern starts 13th Sep 2022.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

**********************

follow me!  Instagram /// Facebook /// Shop /// Pinterest //// Etsy Shop /// Newsletter

[wafflepatterns]

8th February is a small festival Hari-Kuyo day in my mother country Japan. We give thanks to our broken pins and needles and make a wish for our skill up of sewing. 

For celebrating Hari-kuyo, I want to have a mini sale like every year. Popular patterns are special sale price until 9th February(CET). No discount code required.

**********************

follow me!  Instagram /// Twitter /// Facebook /// Shop /// Pinterest //// Etsy Shop /// Newsletter

[wafflepatterns]

Meet new sewing pattern <Momiji> Walking jacket

Meet the new item from Waffle Patterns Walking jacket <Momiji> sewing pattern. It is an outdoor-wear-inspired item featuring an asymmetric front opening with functional details and many fun pockets.

Make an functional outdoor jacket with many pockets or a rain jacket with water repellent fabric or just keep it simple for daily use as you like.

<Design options>

View A features a hood and knit cuffs. This functional kangaroo pocket has a hand warmer layer. Also, there is a ticket pocket on the sleeve. Those handy details are inspired by winter jackets like ski/snowboarding wear. The orange sample in the photos shows View A.

View B is showing a stand collar with more simple details, like a single-layered kangaroo pocket. so this will be suitable for thicker fabrics like wool coating. The yellow plaid sample in the photos is showing View B.

There are other pocket options like a zipper pocket or chest pocket. All the pocket designs can be attached to both views. 

There are other functional details like zipper guard or hood string. You can add or skip those details. But they look nice as design accents and add a professional touch.

Please choose and make your combination depending on your design intention and materials. 

My personal favourite is the ticket pocket on the sleeve. It is inspired by ski wear. Since winter in Amsterdam is very cold, I see some people wear this kind of jacket on the street and use this pocket for storing a debit card or ov-card (kind of metro card). So I wanted to add this for that clever and handy usage.

<fabric recommendation>

The pattern is drafted for woven fabrics. Mid-heavy weight jacket/coat fabrics like wool, gabardine, twill, or canvas will be suitable. Other outdoor fabrics like softshell or water-repellent twill will be a functional option.

Please make sure that some thick fabrics are not suitable for details like zipper guard or pleats on the pocket, because of the thickness of fabric layers. If you want to use stiff or thick fabric, please consider skipping those details or using thinner contrast fabric instead.

The yellow plaid fabric is wool coating and quite thick, so I skipped the folded part on the zipper guard. Also, this type of fabric is not suitable for pleats and layers on kangaroo+hand warmer pocket.

The orange sample was made with mid-weight coloured denim. I wanted to make it a winter version, so I used thin quilted lining.

The pattern includes lining patterns. But those are intended for normal lining fabrics. If you want to use winter lining like quilted, faux fur, fleece, or flannel, please consider modifying the details. Depending in the fabric, using one size larger may be a nice idea. Here is the blog post about making winter versions. https://blog.wafflepatterns.com/post/167771075466

I want to make one more like a raincoat with water repellent twill when I find perfect materials.

<Other>

I made both samples with just-fit size and it is no problem. But choosing one-two size bigger will be a better option if you want to use very thick fabric or special winter linings like fleece, faux fur, or thick quilt or you often wear a bulky sweater underneath. Also, consider using slippery lining fabric to sleeve parts for comfort.

********************* 

The sewing pattern includes the 19 pages instruction and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or US letter) and copy shop(A0 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The Walking jacket -Momiji- (size 32-52) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 17th Jan 2022 (CET) with other popular patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer +12.5EUR for Paper pattern and free shipping Paper pattern + PDF option is available with plus 12.5EUR. Shipping worldwide. But please note that, in the current situation, all the shipments are affected by the measure of COVID-19. There might be some shipping delays or accidents. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instruction by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

*In the sale period, the shipping of the paper pattern starts 18th Jan 2022.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

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[wafflepatterns]

It's Winter sale time!

We are offering special discount on all paper and digital patterns until 29th November (CET). No discount code needed. Don't miss out!

*In the sale period, the shipping of the paper pattern starts 30th Nov.

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[wafflepatterns]

Meet new sewing pattern <Tsuki> Cargo Vest

A new item is just released from Waffle Patterns. Meet Cargo Vest <Tsuki> sewing pattern. It is another work/outdoor-wear-inspired item with functional details and many pockets.

Make a utility vest with many pockets and all the fun design options or just keep it simple for daily use as you like.

Depending on the design options or fabrics, it will be an outdoor/travel vest for trekking/camp, a functional cameraman vest, or a tool vest for your work.

<Design options>

View A is showing a V-neck collar with a regular hem design. A V-neck type is handy for layering on a jacket, so a lot of professional cameraman/fishing vests, or tool vests are featuring this design. The salmon pink sample in the photos shows View A.

View B features a stand collar with a concealed hood and an elastic hem. The concealed hood will be useful for outdoor activities, like trekking, hiking, or camp. The off-white colored sample is showing View B.

There are a lot of pocket design options. Except for the chest flap pocket, all the pocket designs can be attached to both views. Please choose and make your own combination depending on your design intention. My personal favorite is the back pocket. It is inspired by game pockets on traditional hunting/fishing jackets design. I want to pack a map or snack here. Also, there are 2 inside pocket options. You can sew with or without them, but they are quite useful.

<fabric recommendation>

The pattern is drafted for woven fabrics. Light-medium weight jacket fabrics like light denim, canvas, duck, cotton twill, or chino will be suitable. Other light-weight outdoor fabrics like ripstop or water-repellent nylon will be a functional option.

Please make sure that some specially thick fabrics are not suitable for details like flaps, gussets of pockets or pleats, because of the thickness of fabric layers. If you want to use stiff or thick fabric, cutting gussets or pleats will be an option. Also, too thick fabric might be a problem for the concealed hood to put inside the collar. Please consider changing to lighter material like water-repellent poly for the hood piece in that case.

The salmon pink sample was made with mid-weight cotton duck, very suitable for workwear. The off-white sample is corduroy. It is very easy to handle, but since it has pile, we have to care not to press too hard.

It includes the lining pattern, too. Since it has no sleeves, we do not have to choose slippery fabrics. Both samples in the photos are made with plain cotton lining. 

<Other>

The sample of View B shows an elastic hem with the self-fabric. The original pattern includes only for elastic hem with rib knit fabric, but the instruction shows how to make the self-fabric version, too. Depending on your usage, please consider adding fastenings on the pocket opening. Velcro or snap fasteners are suitable for outdoor designs. On the salmon pink sample, I attached the tabs or tabs with D-ring. They are all folded twill tape.

********************* The sewing pattern includes the 18 pages instruction and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or US letter) and copy shop(A0/A1 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The Cargo vest -Tsuki- (size 32-52) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 16th August (CEST) with other popular patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer +12EUR for Paper pattern and free shipping Paper pattern + PDF option is available with plus 12EUR. Shipping worldwide. But please note that, in the current situation, all the shipments are affected by the measure of COVID-19. There might be some shipping delays or accidents. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instruction by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

*In the sale period, the shipping of the paper pattern starts 17th Aug.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

**********************

follow me!  Instagram /// Twitter /// Facebook /// Shop /// Pinterest //// Etsy Shop /// Newsletter

[wafflepatterns]

Meet new sewing pattern <Anzu> Cargo Skirt

Meet the new item from Waffle Patterns Cargo skirt <Anzu> sewing pattern. This is a work/outdoor-wear inspired A-line skirt with functional details and many pockets, like a tool pocket, hammer loop, or holster pocket.

Make it with all the fun options or just keep it simple for daily use as you like. Depending on the design options or fabrics, it will be a hiking skirt, work apron or travel skirt, etc.

This is also a skirt version of my popular pattern <Azuki> cargo pants. If you like work/outdoor items, please try Azuki pants, too.

<Design options>

The front opening has 2 options; double-breasted with button closure or zipper opening. I think the zipper type is suitable for daily use and double breasted will be fun for a work apron. The side pockets are also 2 types. Please choose from the edge type and easy patch type.

For the long-length version, you can add three more patch pockets. They are all workwear-inspired functional designs; zipper pocket, flap pocket, and back tool pocket.

My favorite is the back zipper pocket on the yoke. I think it’s also nice to make with waterproof materials like thin nylon for hiking or travel skirts.

You can sew with or without the details like adjuster belt, hammer loop, inside pocket, back pleats, or lining. Please choose them as your fabric and design intention.

The yellow sample in the photos is intended for daily casual wear, featuring short length + side patch pockets + zipper opening. The salmon pink sample is more like a workwear style. I made it with long length + back pleats + double-breasted front opening and add many fun pockets.

<fabric recommendation>

The pattern is drafted for woven fabrics. Medium weight skirt fabrics will be suitable. For the authentic workwear style, denim, canvas, duck, cotton twill or chino are suitable. For travel/hiking skirts, outdoor fabric like softshell, water-repellent or some quilted fabric will be an interesting option. Just make sure that some specially thick fabrics are not suitable for details like pockets or pleat. Also some fabrics may require size adjustment, I recommend to make muslin for perfect fit.

It includes the lining pattern, too. Of course you can sew without a liner. Please choose suitable lining material depending on the shell and your design intention.

The salmon pink sample was made with mid-weight cotton duck. It was very easy to handle and a very fitting material for workwear.

The yellow sample is a mixed cotton twill. It is quite thick, so I avoided unsuitable details like the back pleat, layered pocket, etc.

I’m planning to make one more for the winter season with quilted fabric or water repellent fabric with warm fleece lining.

<Other> 

You can make it with or without the back pleat. For outdoor/work use, the pleat version will be more reasonable for more movement ease. The detachable holster pocket shares the same size/design as Azuki cargo pants. If you already made the pants, you can use the same pattern if the size is the same.

********************* The sewing pattern includes the 19 pages instruction and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or US letter) and copy shop(A0 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The Cargo skirt -Anzu- (size 32-52) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 15th April(CEST) with other popular patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer +12EUR for Paper pattern and free shipping Paper pattern + PDF option is available with plus 12EUR. Shipping worldwide. But please note that, in the current situation, all the shipments are affected by the measure of COVID-19. There might be some shipping delays or accidents. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instruction by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

*In the sale period, the shipping of the paper pattern starts 16th Apr.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

**********************

follow me!  Instagram /// Twitter /// Facebook /// Shop /// Pinterest //// Etsy Shop /// Newsletter

[wafflepatterns]

Hari-Kuyo SALE!

8th February is a small festival day of “Hari-Kuyo” in my mother country Japan. We give thanks to our broken pins and needles and make a wish for our skill up of sewing.

For celebrating Hari-kuyo, I want to have a mini sale like every year! Take 20% off popular pdf sewing patterns. No discount code required.

-> Check the sale

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[wafflepatterns]

Padded version of Yuzu coat

I have made two padded jackets using my existing patterns for this winter. Here is the 2nd experiment; Puffy padded version of Yuzu coat. (Please see here for the 1st version with Cookie blouson pattern). I really love the result and am sharing here how I made it. I hope it will be a tip/reference for people who want to make one, too. It is not really a down jacket with real feather, but I made it with a normal house sewing machine with batting materials.

<Pattern / Pattern modification>

I used Yuzu coat pattern. Normally, double-breasted design is not suitable for very thick materials like batting/quilted fabrics. But I see many double-breasted padded jackets on high street fashion and they all look so cute. So I decided to try it.

I did not really change the pattern. Just shortened the front part of the high neck collar. Because this thick fabric with this high neck design gives me an uneasy feeling around my face. The cut is similar to the front part of this hood pattern.

This pattern is very roomy, so I used my usual size without alterations. But depending on materials or how to wear, using one size larger might be an option.

For other small adjustments, I added an inside pocket and knit cuffs for extra warmth.

<Materials>

This shell fabric is corduroy. First I was searching for faux leather or wool twill, but when I saw this one at the store, I decided to use it immediately. This corduroy has a very soft touch and I really love the rich shade.

I considered the water/windproof fabric will be a very functional option, but I still am too chicken to use them. Also, I could not find a nice one.

For the batting, I used about 20mm thick for the bodice, sleeve and collar parts and 12mm thick for the small parts like pocket welt pieces. I did not use it on the facing parts.

<Sewing process>

The sewing process is basically the same as the original one. Just add the batting as an interlining to the shell and topstitch. (I explained this step in another post. Please refer to that.)

As for the hem finish, since it is difficult to iron and crease the fabric after interlined with the batting, I pressed and creased all the hem before the interlining process. Then cut and omit the batting on the hem allowance.

Many store-bought padded jackets use hem finish with the lining edge to edge or shell + facing + lining instead of the folded hem finish. I think it is because they are using mainly water/windproof fabric and those cannot be ironed or creased. Also, the hem + facing finish is suitable for making a string casing. I want to use this faced hem detail when I will make a more functional/outdoor style one.

As for the knitted cuffs, I used the same way as the Tsubaki coat. It is constructed from shell + facing + knit + lining from outside to inside.

<Others>

For flattening and shaping the edge, I used edge stitching a lot. The seam allowances of the edges of the collar and front center are turned to the facing side and edge-stitched. I like it more than topstitching because it emphasizes the puffy effect. Topstitching will be more suitable and functional for sporty items.

The front fastenings are fabric-covered snap fasteners and buttons. I wanted to add a bit lux touch to this silky corduroy. I was planning to use metal snap fasteners or magnet type. But it seems too heavy for this fabric and I could not find suitable design ones. 

I used the lining fabric for covering the snaps and the self fabric for the front side. But there are ready-made covered snaps available on the market. I am very much satisfied with this result. They suit this padded corduroy better than I expected.

Other small points/tips are the same as the padded Cookie blouson. Please refer to it.

It was a time-consuming project but I am really like the result! Also, challenging projects cheered me up under this unusual circumstance in lockdown.

I hope this post will be a small help for people who also want to make a winter coat. If you plan to make a padded coat, I strongly recommend experimenting with your materials well. Please consider choosing the right and suitable pattern/size or finishing treatment with your materials and design intentions. Also, I recommend researching store made ones which have a similar design to your idea.

You can find the sewing pattern of the Yuzu coat pattern here.

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