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Tokyo Chain Bakeries and Panya

You would be a FOOL to miss out on Japanese bakeries. Light, white, and fluffy –  Japanese bakeries make savory and sweet breads like no other. Don’t leave without trying Curry Pan (fried doughnut filled Japanese curry) and Melon Pan (sweet, melon’y flavored bread adored throughout Japan – every bakery has it's own spin on this pan). FYI - pan is the Japanese word for bread.

Hokuo – This is a great spot for savory breads. Try the prosciutto pan, it’s delicious here.

Andersens – This is supposed to be a Danish-inspired chain, but my Danish friend says it is not very authentic. That said, it’s loaf breads are great.

Vive la France – I love this place because it is so old skool. This is weirdly wonderful Japanese bread at it’s most 1980’s. There is a round apple bread here that is delicious, they often have small ball shaped fried bread with black sesame or red bean paste inside – soooo excellent. The melon pan at Vive la France is my favorite and though each shop has it’s own combo of breads (i.e., some don’t carry the melon pan) the one that do always seem to have it fresh from the oven.

Kobayashi Kitchen – This is probably my least favorite pan-ya but the scones are usually pretty good.

Little Mermaid – Like Vive la France, this pan-ya is a classic. Everything they carry is a hit.

Gotrans – Like St. Germain, this is has much more ambitious breads and is much fancier (i.e., expensive) than the others on this list.

Pompadour – Hard to find but always delicious when I do. This place has really good Japanese style breads – for example baguettes stuffed with cod roe, curry breads, anchovy breads, etc. Great for savory pallets.

Chez Louis – If you have a sweet tooth, this is the spot for you. Most of their selection is custard-filled, milk, or cream-based.

St. Germain – The other fancy bread store. They carry an almond / walnut croissant that is so overflowing with it’s incredible filling it’s a rectangular cut out from the pan. I can’t even begin to describe how good this tastes.

La Repas – Amazing selection, savory breads and sandwiches, pretty authentic albeit small pizza slices.

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Must Eat, Tokyo

Japan is way more than just sushi and ramen, right?  Japan’s rich array of food leaps far beyond raw fish and bowls of ramen – imagine deeply flavored curries, fried or grills meats, veg, and fish, hot pots, and delicately herbed pickles. Japanese food has contributed its very own flavor profile to the salt, sweet, bitter, sour, spicy, texture, temperature and…umami. Check out J-cooking staples and enjoy watching your waistline grow! 

Sushi – Well, you need to do it, skip the tuna auction but don’t miss out on Tsukiji. Start your day with a carafe of nihon-shu (sake) and omekase (chef’s choice) style fish. This will be a highlight for sure. Take note, the marketplaces shut down around noon. 

Ramen & Gyoza – Like a hand in glove, you must get both of these after a long night out, or a cold day, or for breakfast….whenever you can, really, Tokyo loves its ramen any time of day.

Teshoku – A must-have, classic Japanese Washoku meal comprised of miso soup (fermented), tsukemono (pickled), rice, and grilled fish or meat. 

Katsu – Fried meat or fish over rice. Delicious.

Dons – Meat with egg over rice. Yummmm forever.

Japanese Curry – You can get classic or soup varieties of curry. Like the other items in this list, this is a super popular dish and is served (like everything!) with white sticky rice. Shimokitazawa is a great place to grab curry, they are famous for it.

Okinomiyaki / Monjayaki – Both of these items are otherwise known as Japanese pancakes that you cook at your table. Okinomiyaki is a base of egg, flour, and cabbage and you can add any number of other things – meat, fish, noodles. This pairs well with a bunch of friends and lots of beer. 

Osechi – This may be hard to find as it’s traditionally made for New Year’s celebrations and is most famous coming out of Kyoto. Osechi is essentially preserved foods (that you eat over the course of the New Year’s observation period), including lots of wakame, beans, and salted fish and roe. It literally feels special, but is expensive. Try it out if you have the budget.

Shabu Shabu - hot pot meal where you dip and eat meats, fish, and veg. Super good.

Nabe – Please do not miss the chance to get motsu nabe. But only if your stomach can handle eating all of the unusual parts of an animal – stomach, organs…you get the idea. Motsu nabe smells divine, but may be an acquired taste. There are regular nabes for the novice – pork slices, lots of vegetable, fish cakes, and savory broths.

Oden – Oden is popular, so much so you can buy it at any 7/11. Do try to find actual oden, though and experience a wide variety of fish cakes, hanpen, daikon, and hard boiled egg simmered for hours in a rich dashi broth. This is the absolute perfect cold weather food and goes swimmingly with either beer or nihon-shu.

Yakitori – Grilled meats with the occasional dash of vegetable. You can play it safe with chicken and pork skewers or have some fun with liver, cartilage, and other sweetbreads. Yakitori is cooked over charcoal and a quintessential on-the-go food when you are going to or coming from an night at the bars.

Izakaya – An izakaya isn’t a dish, it’s a type of restaurant/bar. Basically, you go there to drink and eat Japanese tapas. You probably won’t be able to read the menu, but you can literally just point and explore – everything will be delicious.

Kiddie Foods – Pancakes, omelrice, takoyaki, and crepes are foods you will see in areas dominated by kids in their 20’s. It’s all worth a try. Tako yaki is especially good – golf ball sized pillows of batter and octopus pieces.

International Foods: As delish as J-food is, beware of international food in Tokyo - everything is modified to 'the Japanese palette'. Korean and Chinese and Thai are all mild, Vietnamese and Burmese is hard to come by, French is not authentic, and it is difficult to find Indian food that is even edible. The one exception to this rule is Italian food. It's super easy to find great pasta. Note that dishes range from J-style (spaghetti with ketchup and cut up hotdog, no joke) to think-you-are-Sisily dishes of desire.