thepurplecarrot

[thepurplecarrot]

13 march 2020 | golden gate bridge

It was a windy walk over the Golden Gate Bridge, but we were fortunate that it wasn’t hidden by a layer of fog that often sweeps through the Bay area. It was pretty amazing to walk one of the Wonders of the World that was designed by engineer Joseph Strauss in 1917. Construction of the bridge started in January 1933 and finished in April 1937, and the total length is about 2.7km.

[thepurplecarrot]

13 march 2020 | alacatraz

On Thursday the 12th of March, the United States took serious measures to restrict the spread of COVID-19. We had been told earlier that day by a restaurant owner and Uber driver that the city was quiet, as ‘social distancing’ and working from home became the norm, but it wans’t until we arrived at the Exploratorium for an After Dark session on Fungi to find the museum closed that we realised the seriousness of the outbreak.

We had booked our Alcatraz tour months in advance and we were uncertain if the tour would still go ahead, as events of 250+ people were cancelled the day prior. We arrived at Pier 33 for our ferry ride to the island and tours were still going ahead.

The trip to Alcatraz was super interesting and the audio tour was a great way to learn about the islands past, which was once a fort, a military prison, and a maximum security federal penitentiary. The tour also narrated a couple of the clever, and in some cases brutal, prison escapes.

The flora and fauna on Alcatraz is what remains of the original gardens. The plants have survived on their own, with only moisture from fog and rain.

In 1968, the Indians of All Tribes occupied Alcaztraz for 19 months to protest freedom and Native American civil rights.

Alcatraz Island closed on Sunday 15th of March.

[thepurplecarrot]

11 march 2020 | san francisco, USA

We arrived in San Francisco around midday and took an Uber to our hotel, The San Remo, in North Beach. An old Victorian style hotel that was built in 1906 by Bank of America founder, A.P. Giannini. The hotel is full of charm and features Victorian heirloom furnishings.

We then went out to explore the city, heading for Chinatown and then the Financial District.

We went to a Sennheiser store and Jack got to audition the Sennheiser HD800s open-back headphones with the Sennheiser HDV 820 DAC-amp, which cost about US$4,000 combined! Sadly Jack couldn’t afford to purchase.

We went back to the hotel on a Limes scooter before heading to Chinatown for dinner, via one of the many Italian restaurants in North Beach for a local beer and Aperol Spritz!

We went to Sam Wo, one of the oldest restaurants in Chinatown. The restaurant opened shortly after the 1906 earthquake by three immigrant siblings from the village of Taishan, China. Our meals were amazing and such good value for money!

To end our first day San Fran we came across old school dive bar, The Saloon, that had an incredible 4-piece blues band playing.

[thepurplecarrot]

24 April 2017 | la paz, bolivia

Our time in La Paz was the most challenging part of our trip. It was an extremely eyeopening couple of days as we encountered first-hand the corruptness of their government and police force. I don’t want to turn this post into a political rant, but looking back on our experience in Bolivia it really makes me appreciate just how amazing New Zealand is. I admit we do have our issues just like any other nation, but it doesn’t quite compare to the dysfunction, poverty and corruption that is prevalent in Bolivia. We only spent two nights in La Paz and my lasting impression may be tainted by our unfortunate experience of being pickpocketed and having to deal with the arrogant Bolivian police, however it did give me a greater understanding of the differences between societies, governments and living standards. I hope to go back to back to La Paz one day and experience the city for its beauty rather than troubles. This is the first time that I’ve looked back on the pictures I took whilst there and I can see an inviting warmth expressed on the faces of the people who live there as well as glimpses of their unique culture. Happiness is an attitude, it is something you can achieve regardless of your income, heritage or where in this crazy world you call home. 

People protesting their income is unable to support their basic needs

Witches Market aka El Mercado de las Brujas and La Hechiceria

We bought coca powder off this woman to help with altitude sickness. Please excuse the llamas, they are sold for good luck!

A sea of terracotta roofs. Mi Teleferico’s red line that links the distant neighbourhood of El Alto with the central city of La Paz. The urban gondola network in La Paz is the longest in the world, at just over 11km. It was built to provide a faster and more reliable transport option for commuters of neighbouring areas to reach the city. 

[thepurplecarrot]

21 April 2017 |  salar de uyuni, bolivia

We did a one day tour of the Uyuni Salt Flats and this adventure was certainly one of the most breathtaking visually. We visited the train graveyard, geisers, cactus island, had lunch in a salt iglu and finished the day with the most surreal sunset of the trip. I will let the photos do the talking for this one. 

[thepurplecarrot]

19.04.17 - 20.04.17 isla del sol, lake titicaca

Isla Del Sol (Island of the Sun) is a 70 sq km island in Lake Titicaca about an hours boat ride from Copacabana. We spent one night at the island’s main settlement, Yumani. There are no cars or mototaxis’ and its only inhabitants are the indigenous people and a few escapers from the mainland. Our short stay on Isla Del Sol was a very peaceful experience and with no wifi it meant we could completely switch off from the world for a brief moment. 

Incan mythology believes that Virachocha (the god who created the universe), emerged from the clear waters of lake Titicaca and created the sun at Isla Del Sol. It was then that the son and daughter of Inti (the God of Sun) emerged from a cave with a golden staff in hand. Manco Cápac then took his staff across the water and found Cusco between the mountains and this is where he decided to start his Incan empire...according to the Incan legend. 

Old-school transport

Hostel Del Sol 

A little pizzeria in the middle of nowhere

View of Yumani from above

Before our fresh trucha and pollo milanesa lunch with a serious view. 

[thepurplecarrot]

18.04.17 copacabana, lake titicaca

Copacabana is a small lakeside town on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca. Nestled on a peninsula, at times you feel as if you are looking across the ocean to the bare horizon far away. The enchanting town is a popular place for local and international pilgrims to attend religious fiestas, especially during the Holy Weeks. Arriving just after Easter, we were lucky to enjoy a more relaxing Copacabana. 

View from our hostels balcony

Along the along the lakefront there are about 25 different ‘kiosks’ where you can sample some of the freshest trucha (trout) from the lake. 

The Basilica of Our Lady of Copacabana

This 16-century Spanish colonial cathedral is a lavish shrine to the Virgin of Copacabana. The building also houses many extravagant European artworks. 

Photos are not allowed to be taken inside the cathedral as an act of respect. The alter piece however was certainly one to admire. 

Plaza 2 de Febrero

Taking a walk up Cerro Calvario revealed this ocean-like view of Lake Titicaca. 

Incan mythology believes that the creator God, Viricoca, rose to create the sun, stars, moon and the first human beings. This painting depicts Mallku Kapac and Mama Ocllo, the ‘Inca Adam and Eve.’ 

A beautiful sunset from the balcony on our last night in Copacabana. 

[thepurplecarrot]

11.04.17 pisac ruins, sacred valley

The Pisac Ruin site has probably been my favourite of the Sacred Valley. This is because there are many different archeological sites that the Incas built for different purposes and for the majority of your journey you will encounter no other tourists. We spent about two hours exploring this site that lies high above the small Pisac village on a triangular plateau with steep gorges either side. The walk up the trail, although rather gruelling and steep, was well worth it for the views and to walk between these spectacular Inca ruins.

Only half way to the to top!

The agricultural terracing that are almost entirely unbroken, however they do promote erosion and require greater maintenance.

It was nice to see some uncontaminated water for a change.

Slowly getting to the top...

The hundreds of extremely steep stairs on our ascent.

But it was definitely worth it when we turned back to see the distance we had climbed and the view of the village.

Deserving of a little sit down

Jack’s impressive panoramic, look at that lens flare!

Intihuatana, the Incas astronomical tool. The name literally means,’Hitching Post of the Sun.’

These temples have been almost immaculately preserved and it was amazing to walk through the archways and be in contact with the centuries old stone.

And then the descent...

We encountered various women selling drinks and handicrafts along the trail and on the way back it was hard to resist one of their woven bracelets.

Unfortunately we didn't catch this woman's name. 

The Pisac market, which was on the doorstep of our hostel, was an interesting place to explore during the day and pick up a few souvigners.

A vendor playing the traditional Andean stringed intrument, charango.

Church in the Plaza Constitución

[thepurplecarrot]

7.04.17 mountain biking, moray - maras - salinas

After visiting the ruins in Ollantaytambo, we made our way to Urubamba. We used this town as a base for visiting the archeological sites in Moray and Salinas de Moras. The B&B that we were staying at fortunately had suitable mountain bikes to make the 27km journey across the Andean terrain. Our host made sure the bikes were in good condition and gave us the relevant repair equipment in case we had any problems along the way. We started our expedition by taking a taxi from Urubamba to Maras where we began our uphil ascent to Moray. This was extremely challenging, as blissful as it was being the only people on the dirt track the majority of the trip, the altitude and heat made it an intense journey. After about an hour and a half of cycling and walking we eventually made it to the archeological site, Moray. 

Taking in the view from above, it was well worth the challenging bike ride. The deep circular terraces looked like an old amphitheater, but it is believed that the Incas used this site as an agricultural laboratory. The design, depth and relation to the sun and wind suggests that they were built for a particular purpose. The temperature from the top to the bottom of the terraces varies 15 degrees Celsius and therefore it is believed that each level was used to experiment the growing of various crops at different microclimates.

This could be the reason why the Peruvians have more than 2,000 different varieties of potatoes! 

Patrick and his younger brother Sebastian

Panoramic of the view of the descent from Moray to Maras.  

Jack hooning Down the hill...such a relief to know we had done the most challenging part first. 

Arriving at Salinas de Maras

View from above

These salt mines are located on the slopes of the Qaqawiñay Mountain at an altitude of 3,380 m. There are around 3,000 salt pans, which are shallow pools filled by an underground spring of hypersaline. Sources predict that these salt mine were created pre-Inca times and the salt gets its pink hue from the various elements in the spring water including, potassium, calcium, magnesium and silicon. 

The local miners at work harvesting the salt mines. This process occurs during the dry season. 

[thepurplecarrot]

6.04.17 parque arqueológico de ollantaytambo, sacred valley

The Ollantaytambo terraces and fortress is a significant archeological site for the Manco Inca’s, as this is where they conquered the Spanish consquistadors led by Hernado Pizarro in 1536. The Inca’s fought with arrows, spears and boulders from atop the steep terracing and this meant that the Spaniards couldn’t reach the fortress. In an excellent move, the Manco Inca’s then charged to the plain below the terracing through previously prepared channels, causing Pizarro and his men to retreat. This victory did not last long however, and the Spaniards soon returned with a greater cavalry force. Manco was forced to flee back to his stronghold in the Vilcabamba jungle. 

The steep terracing 

The Ollantaytambo site is not only a fortress, but also a temple for the Manco Inca’s. In this particular site is the diez normacinas.

Looking down on the plains from the top of the fortress. 

On the opposite mountIn you can see the storehouses used by the Inca’s. 

Beautiful stonework

Signature architectural feature

Jack at the top of the fortress

View of the tiny town, Ollantaytambo

Where the Incas could watch for the Spanish invaiders. 

View from inside

The Temple of the Sun, which was to serve as a calendar for the Inca’s, especially for the Winter and Summer solsicts. This amazing structure was never finished due to the Inca’s being forced to retreat. 

When you look up closely you can see the beautiful carved detAils of the calendar. 

There are many large, disgarded stones, piedras cansadas, that would have been incorporated in the Temple of the Sun. These stones way around 50 tons and were quarried from the mountainside 6km away! 

Amongst the beautiful stonework

Looking up at the steep terraces from below

View from inside Templo del Agua

There are numerous fountains that serve both as an irrigation system and a religious ceremonial centre. This is one of the most beautiful baths, Banos de Nusta, which is made from granite rock. 

Alpacas!

Baby Alpaca munching on a leaf

More examples of the intricate details of the Inca’s architecture 

Munch munch!

[thepurplecarrot]

05.04.17 ollantaytambo, sacred valley

Instead of battling the crowds and negotiating a reasonable price to visit Machu Picchu, we have decided to explore the smaller, lesser known ruins and archeological sites of the Sacred Valley, including Ollantaytambo, Urubamba, Maras, Moray, Salinas and Pisac. We arrived in Ollantaytambo last Wednesday by collectivo and entering into the valley where the small village is situated, we could instantly see various archeological sites of the Incas. After being dropped of in the main square, we made our way through the cobble stoned streets to our homestay, Rumi Wasi, even from the roof top terrace you could see the ancient ruins of the Incas. 

Sipping on some hot coca tea.

Mercado Artisinal

This market was especially amazing as it sits just below the Ollantaytambo archeological site where the Incas conquered the Spanish (more about these ruins in the next post). 

Authentic Andean woman

The main square, where you can see the Incas’ storehouses on the hill behind. 

A lovely woman hand sewing woven bracelets made from Alpaca wool. 

The tiny road that took us back to Rumi Wasi.

Jack feat. Cusqueña and San Pedro

View from the terrace

The Incas storehouses basking in the falling sun. 

[thepurplecarrot]

29.03.17 - 5.04.17 cusco, peru

Arriving into Cusco was like walking back in time, it is ancient. Everything from the architecture, roads and way of life is of a different era. Adjusting to the altitude of being 3,400m above sea level was something we certainly noticed as soon as we jumped out of our taxi and headed up the hundred or so stairs to our hostel, Hookah Chill. As soon as we made it to the balcony though we were breath-taken in more ways than one. The view was absolutely stunning and we were so happy this would be our home for the next week. 

From Hookah Chill’s balcony

A sea of rooftops, with PERU etched into the hill in the background.

🍑

Walking down the many steps to the Plaza de Armas. 

Caterdral de Cusco

Old man sitting outside the Catedral de Cusco

Catedral de Cusco

On our way to San Pedro market. 

Become obsessed with these beautifully coloured doors against the ancient architecture. 

Iglesias de la Compañía

Mercado San Pedro, we absolutely loved it here!

Waiting for my freshly squeezed papaya, mango and passionfruit juice. Must ask for no added sugar, otherwise as Jack describes, “it tastes like mixing three sachets of Raro into one litre of water!”

Our selection of eateries for the majority of our stay in Cusco. 

Jacks meal, Pollo Broaster, the Peruvian KFC. Jack would even go as far to say it is better! Cost: S/6 = NZ$2.70.

My Chaufa con Palto, super tasty and fresh. Cost: S/5 = NZ$2.35. These cheap meals justified our spending on alpaca jumpers and pashmina scarves, which were just as much of a bargain as the food. 

Español música buskers 

There are so many markets down hidden alleys. 

Array of Andean colours. 

Dressed in traditional Andean styles!

Dusky skies on our last night in San Blas, Cusco. 

[thepurplecarrot]

28.03.17 amazon experience: day four

On our final day with Amazon Experience we took the small canoe, where the water practically was level with the sides of the boat! And made our way through dense bush to find more wildlife and plant species. We also got to cut down a palm tree to use for our lunch!

Jack helping Victor row the canoe. 

One of the many catapillers we saw on our walks.

The ‘Jungle Jail’ 

Jack using the machete to help cut down the palm tree for the jungle spaghetti.

There it goes! 

The process begins by removing the outer layers of the trunk. 

Keeps on removing outer layers...

He kept going until you reach the white part in the middle, which you peel into long strands to make the spaghetti. We had this for our lunch when we returned to the lodge.

The walkway to our room at Amazon Dolphin Lodge. 

Our awesome guide, Adamir.

The always smiling boat captain, Victor.

Lazy cruise back to Iquitos after 4 amazing days in the Amazon!

[thepurplecarrot]

27.03.17 amazon experience: day three

Day three of our Amazon Experience adventure was a full day expedition of the Yanayacu basin. This area of the Amazon immersed us in the ‘Mirror of the Jungle,’ it’s given this name because of the clear reflections of the water. 

We stopped at the local school to pick up some cheese for our lunch, it was cows cheese but not your typical cows cheese. It was white in colour, looked a bit like tofu, yet still tasted like cheese. 

Our favourite way to travel along the river was at the very front of the boat, where we had the best view to spot the wildlife. 

We made our way further in the jungle to reach the ‘Kingdom of Giant Trees.’

This is the largest tree in the Amazon, the Kapok (ceiba pentandra). This tree can live for 500 years and can reach around 60 metres high!

We were also lucky to see some monkey’s playing high in the trees. 

Swinging on a vine like the monkey’s do!

Heliconia Tropical flower 

We saw many amazing bird species, but it was very difficult to take a decent photo!

Heading to our piranha fishing spot

Adamir insisted that we pose like Jack and Rose from the Titantic...

Fishing using the traditional Amazonian rod. 

Final score: Anna = 2, Jack = 0

[thepurplecarrot]

26.03.17 amazon experience: day two

On our second day with Amazon Experience we woke up at 5.30am to take the boat into the middle of the Amazon River to watch the sunrise. Although it was a cloudy morning the scenery was beautiful and so tranquil. All you could hear was the birds waking up to a new day. 

After having a delicious breakfast we then headed to see one of the oldest indigenous Amazonian groups, the Yagua tribe. We bought sweets and crackers to share with them, which they much appreciated. 

After being welcomed by the chief of the tribe, we were invited to join in and learn their traditional dances and songs. 

Next we got to practice our aim with the cerbatana (blow gun). Surprisingly we were quite good!

Loading the spears into the cerbatana, which are made from from carved wood, sharpened with piranha teeth and dipped in poison. They use the blow gun to hunt for food in the jungle.

There were many handmade handicrafts that were available to buy to contribute towards their preservation. We chose a woven and beaded bracelet and a necklace/ornament Jack is wearing below. 

We then participated in their farewell dance. 

The Chief of the Yagua Tribe, who can have up to 3 wives!

Our next venture for the day was to take a walk inside the rainforest in search for birds, wildlife and flora and fauna. 

Many of the trees in the Amazon have various medicinal purposes, for example this tree when cut oozes a white liquid that can be used as an anti-inflammatory. 

Mushroom...especially enjoyed by monkeys!

Caterpillar

As well as seeing plant live, we also saw monkeys playing in the trees. 

[thepurplecarrot]

25.03.17 amazon experience: day one

With the vast amount of Amazon tour companies lining the streets of Iquitos, it is very hard to know who will give you an authentic experience. After doing some research we decided to go with Amazon Experience on a 4 day 3 night tour and our experience with this company certainly exceeded our expectations. We had so many surreal experiences and have collected some incredible memories. 

We first departed by boat from the Nanay Port and continued along this river until we came to the conjunction with the Amazon. Our fist stop was at the Fundo Pedrito preservation center. 

Here we got to see the biggest water lily in the world...

Alligators and the largest Amazonian fish, Paiche.

Our next stop was at the Neiser Animal Rescue Center. 

Here we got to play with various species on monkeys: Wooly Monkey, Squirrel Monkey and Spider Monkey. 

Monkey business 🐒

Didn't pull my hair out this time thank goodness!

Feeding the monkeys bananas. 

Jack attracting the monkeys and Macaw. 

My absolute favourite is having a snuggle with the adorable sloths.

I really didn't want to let go...

Beautifully coloured parrot. 

Jack holding an Anaconda. 

Cruising down the Amazon to our rustic style lodge, where we had a delicious lunch made from local produce, fresh fruit and juice. 

Dolphin watching. 

Swimming in the river where the pink and grey river Dolphins live, we were super lucky and had one come about 5 or so metres from us, this is extremely rare as they are very shy mammals. 

Waiting for the sunset. 

A perfect ending to a magical day in the Amazon. 

[thepurplecarrot]

24.03.17 monkey island + butterfly farm

The Centro de Rescate el Paraiso de Amazon is a rescue centre for monkeys, snakes, parrots, tucans, jaguars and the adorable sloth. These animals will stay at the rescue centre for about 1 to 3 months before being released back into the wild. 

Playing with the monkeys, ended up getting attacked because they wanted to play with my hair!

Sloths cuddles

Baby sloth

Boa Constrictor 

Anaconda!

Tucan

It was the dream of Guden Sperrer to breed one of the most beautiful species, butterflies. So she created the Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm where they breed 40 species of butterflies, at the farm you can see the full lifecycle and impressive metamoraphasis of the butterfly. 

Catfish parilla at a floating restaurant, was so delicious. 

The restaurant

Merging of the Nanay River (black) with the Amazon River (brown).

My awesome guide, Marlon.