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A history of haute couture

Although all royal and aristocratic households had custom-made clothes, and competed for the creation of fashion trends, the term haute couture is associated retrospectively with fashion designer’s Rose Bertin’s gowns for Queen Marie-Antoinette. The garments were illustrated and printed in fashion magazines, invented the previous century, and were then copied by local dressmakers, therefore creating a faster-paced fashion. However, haute couture as we now know it has appeared only around the late 1850s. 

Charles Fredrick Worth (1825-1895) has helped define this luxury industry, as we currently know it. He was the first to present his new collections one season in advance, to hire models to present his garments, to sell them as either exclusives or copies, as well as introduce a sewn label inside each garment. It is also funny to note that his wife was the first paid model in history,  in the 1850s.

His Paris boutique dressed Empress Eugenie of France and Empress Elisabeth of Austria among others, but his real legacy could be his participation in the creation of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture, a reform from the outdated medieval professional guilds.

The term haute couture comes from “haute” meaning “elevated” or “elegant,” and “couture” translating to “sewing” or “garment making.” In order to qualify to the term, garments must be made to the client’s individual measurements, the atelier must be located in Paris employing at least 15 full-time staff members and at least 20 technical employees, full-time or part-time, and present two yearly collections of at least 50 original designs per season.

Nowadays, the term also refers to similar practices in other fashion capitals of the world.

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Haussmann’s Paris

Georges-Eugène Haussmann (1809-1891), was a French official chosen by Emperor Napoleon III to renovate and renew a large portion of central Paris to make it more au goût du jour. 

The first project was to improve the sanitation, water supply and traffic circulation of Paris. As the population of the City of Light had doubled, the improvements included a redivision of the map to include eight more arrondissements, or districts, and new sewers were installed. Two new railway stations, a produce market, a hospital and the Paris opera were built, and four more parks were created. Old buildings have been destroyed to be replaced by a specific style of neoclassical architecture, all the same height and faced with cream-coloured stone, to create a uniform look on Paris boulevards. He has treated buildings not as independent, but as pieces of a unified landscape. This style of architecture became known as the Haussmann style. 

The ground floor is usually by businesses, as is often the mezzanine. The second, third and fourth floor are residential units, and the fifth floor features a single, continuous balcony. The mansard roof, angled at 45° was occupied by lower-income tenants and concierges.

Outside, stone paved carriage entrances that connect to a courtyard were used as entrances by the nobility to enter with their horse-drawn carriages.

The chimneys that were originally used for heating now symbolize the iconic rooftops of Paris in movies. Also note that the tiny balconies offer some of the best views of Paris.

The interiors typically feature herringbone and chevron parquet floors, elaborate plaster moldings, tall windows, built-in wardrobes and bookshelves, marble fireplaces, and French doors. It is  the quintessential Parisian-style apartment.

How to replicate this typical Parisian neoclassical style 

If you ever desire to add a little bit of Haussmannian charm to your own apartment, consider investing in a golden framed mirror. It is usually placed above the marble fireplace, but you could choose a full-length mirror for your dressing area in your bedroom. Also, add golden candlesticks or ceiling lights to match. Most walls are usually white, which can make things a tad easier for renting tenants with restrictions from their owners.

If your budget allows, introduce an ornamented marble fireplace to your living room, as well as elaborate plaster moldings, and warm wood floorings. It gives european flair to the room, and increases the potential value of the property on the real estate market. Match the marble fireplace with a porcelain vase with your favourite flowers for a romantic flair. 

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Raspberry financiers

2/3 cup cake flour ¾ cup brown sugar 100g almond powder 1/3 cup aquafaba ¼ cup hazelnut oil (this is a play on words to veganize “beurre noisette”, you can use regular oil without any difference in flavour, hazelnut oil is a tad bland) 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 cup fresh or frozen raspberries

Preheat the oven at 325F.

Line financier cake pan with papers. Keep aside.

In a medium bowl, sift cake flour, then add brown sugar, almond powder, aquafaba, oil, and vanilla extract.

Add the raspberries, and fold gently to mix.

Transfer the batter evenly into the lined pan.

Bake for 30 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean.

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Clafouti-inspired baked oatmeal

2 cups oat flakes 1 cup almond powder 1 tsp baking powder 2 cups fresh or frozen fruits 2 cups milk 3 tbsp maple syrup 2 tbsp oil Almond slices, for topping

Preheat the oven at 350F.

Lightly oil a baking dish.

Transfer all ingredients into the baking dish, and stir to combine. Top with almond slices.

Bake for 30 minutes, or until golden and baked inside.

2-3 portions

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Simple jewelry, and simple luxuries

Although the Paris Olympics are partly sponsored by luxury brands, and will therefore feature as many shopping and travel advertisements as possible, you too can show off a new item or accessory without ever breaking the bank.

Crafts supply stores offer a large variety of bits and bobs to make jewelry. You can try replicating a trendy item such as the Pandora bracelet, for a tiny fraction of the cost; or, for something even easier, choose a pendant you like and a chain.

Your gift to yourself is likely to last years, while the price will soon be forgotten.

Enjoy your new definition of luxury, as I have.

[thebespokejournal]

The bulbs are in bloom, and the wind brings an air of Spring. Have a nice day. 🌷

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"How hard you work matters more than how much you make." - Michelle Obama

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That woman

What does it mean to grow up, or actually grow old, for the internet generation? With all the internet aesthetics called Clean girl, Soft girl, VSCO girl or kid, Indie kid, etc., I thought it is time to grow up a little and use words such as “woman” or “man”.

As a first experiment, here is “That woman”, an adult version of the “That girl” aesthetics.

Whereas the girl is aspiring to build the life of her dreams, the woman is possibly living it already. It is not so much about green smoothies than about building a business mentioned in the Forbes magazine, and it’s about a well-balanced lifestyle. As I chose the photos, I wanted to show a beautiful lifestyle young people would aspire to… And especially that girl.

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"Aging is an extraordinary process whereby you become the person you always should have been." - David Bowie

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My age doesn’t define me.

Neither does my past.

I will be forty this Spring, and I can say I have lived through a lot. I have received hardships, and I have learned to fight back. I have gained wisdom and life experience. Through it all, I have considered quitting and letting go, and got back up again, and again, and again.

My past does not define me, but it has educated me for what is yet to come. 

My age does not define me, for I have more dreams and ambitions than I had as a young girl.

Nothing pejorative shall define me, as I step into forty more years, if God allows. This is only the beginning of the other half of my life, and I intend to make it better than the previous one. 

I’d rather be an aging conqueror.

[thebespokejournal]

Spring-Summer 2024 trends

This season, it would seem that youth and adult age are talking the same visual language when it comes to trends.

Two of the most noticeable trends seen were, in fact, the continuity of previous cultural movements. The first is Soft Romantism, a softened, more casual, and more grown-up approach to pastel and earthy trends such as Coquette, Soft Girl and Cottagecore. Do not hesitate to try a Victorian or Edwardian blouse, or a large straw hat. The second is a logical transition between extreme Minimalism and the new Maximalism trend… without throwing everything into the garbage container. Clearly, a smooth, budget-friendly transition will be required for most people.

The main colour palette is comprised of peach or abricot, with soft pastel green and a light blue.

Finally, when it comes to makeup, focus on enhancing the eyes. Draw attention and light to the inner corner of the eyes, add pink eyeshadow, and finish the curves of the eyes with drama by adding long half falsies, for a slightly retro screen siren look.

In any case, is is true that this year seems to mark the end of brutal Minimalism. Embrace the change!

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"Paris Street; Rainy Day" by Gustave Caillebotte, 1877, Oil on canvas.

To celebrate the release of the second issue of the magazine, allow me to present the wonderful painting featured on its cover.

Have a great day!

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Issue 2, Spring 2024: Vive la France!

A lot can happen in a season, and a lot goes into creating something from scratch. This issue of the magazine has all of my heart in it. I sincerely hope you will enjoy it.

And, hopefully, many more issues will come!

Jennifer

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And therefore…

Here is the Spring 2024 moodboard

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Here is a list of activities for Spring.

Have a marvelous season!

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Spring is coming!

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Featured in the magazine: The Scarlet Flower (Аленький цветочек, directed by Lev Atamanov, Soyuzmultfilm, 1952)