Hi! My name is Seraa and I'm forever a student who dabbles in fandoms.
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16 reasons why the YOI dub is just as good as the subs and you should all watch it at least once
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“ғroм now on тo тнe end oғ мy lιғe, yoυ are мιne and ι aм yoυrѕ. wнιle тнe ѕυn rιѕeѕ ғroм тнe eaѕт and ѕeтѕ ιn тнe weѕт, yoυ are мy ѕυn, мy мoon, and мy ѕтarѕ.”
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Another Mystic Messenger fanart from me>w< “a selfie a day keeps the doctor away~” Sadly Zen’s route gave me diabetes…;w;
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Is and continues to be my favorite dance video. Dude’s so unexpectedly fluid.
> High score! What happened? Did i break it?
> You don’t see too many YouTube videos from 2005..
Weird to think that was almost a 10 years ago.
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being candela is suffering
(related to this)
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Rub ‘n Buff Sampler - Color Review
I’ve been using Rub ‘n Buff as a metallic finish for my props for years, but recently at Gen Con I met an awesome Amaco rep who was giving out free samples and coupon codes (gencon2016 for 20% off a sample kit through their website). So I picked up a sampler set of their full range of 12 colors and did a few test swatches. “Sample” kit is a bit inaccurate, because I got a twelve regular 15 mL tubes of Rub n’ Buff. This stuff is basically metallic pigment in solvent and wax which you rub on to a finely sanded or porous surface. Because it’s wax-based it does not crack AT ALL, and the more you buff it the shinier it gets.
As for the colors themselves - gold matching has always been an pain in the butt for me so I was really pleased to see they had so many colors available. The gif at the bottom was me attempting to arrange the colors from the most yellow gold tones to the most red gold tones. They’ve only got two silver-tone colors, Pewter and Silver leaf, which are pretty similar except Silver Leaf is a little more liquidy and seems to have finer particles. Spanish Copper is a basically a deep metallic brown, which strikes me as being great for grime or weathering. The metallic particles in the Ruby color seem a little coarser than the other colors in the line, which might affect the final luster of a project. Ebony, Patina, and Antique White all seem to be good for adding corrosion/weathering effects as well.
With the Gen Con code above, you can get a 12-pack sampler from Amaco’s website for about $45 shipped in the US, although it looks like you can get the same set off of Amazon Prime for $35. Considering these retail for between $5-8 a tube, it’s a pretty good deal either way. Here are a couple projects that I’ve used this stuff on, which are all basically thermoplastic/resin base -> Mod Podge coat -> wet sanding -> painted with Rub n’ Buff (no clearcoat or other finish necessary).
Robo-arm in Silver Leaf:
Yamask Masks in Gold Leaf:
So yeah, heads up! I like this stuff a lot and I’m not sure how familiar the cosplay community at large is, but if you have an upcoming project you can use some in I’d give it a shot.
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Patterns, refs, and more+
So this con season I made myself Pidge and a Shiro paladin costumes to wear, with pretty good results. The worst part of it though was the amount of time I spent drafting patterns, so I figured this might be a good resource for anyone else looking to make armor in the future.
This is all based on my measurements (a 5′1″ average-ish build with… bigger thighs), so you’ll likely need to make adjustments to have this fit yourself, but hopefully this makes building your own cosplay a little easier. Materials, patterns and everything under the cut. Hope it helps!
Keep reading
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recently watched Starting Days and the moment natsuya showed up i just knew this was going to happen…
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i've never worked with resin pieces before so i was wondering- what would be the best kind of paint for your kit pieces? i've been trying to use multi-surface paint (the folk art kind) but it peels off. also, would you suggest that its also a good idea to use some kind of over/undercoat as well on them?
Inexpensive acrylics like Folk Art generally don’t adhere too well to smooth plastics; they don’t bond well, and some of our kits are smoother than others. If you’re totally in love with using acrylics, I’d suggest roughing up the surface of the resin with a bit of sandpaper so it has some tooth for the acrylic to cling to OR priming first. Any spray paint primer will do and is quick to use.
Personally, we tend towards using enamel or lacquer spray paints, usually of the automotive variety. We also prime, usually just with the same value-brand automotive primer we finish the masters with.
For final coats, we do a clear topcoat, almost always from a spraycan. You should always test a little bit with metallics first though, before you apply the top coat; some will dull the finish of metallics more than others. A couple ultra-light coats will limit how much it dulls. (Paging Kat to edit in name of the topcoat Volpin uses/that you get your parents to bring up from the States because it isn’t sold in Canada? lol.) [Kat edit: it’s called Rust-oleum Crystal Clear Enamel; I haven’t tested it yet though! However, I can vouch for Montana’s gloss clear coat.]
And this has nothing to do with the kits, really, but while I’m thinking of Volpin, read his Volpin Project article for Tested; the notes on paint methods and techniques are pretty cool.
- Jenn
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noire: why the fuck is your wartortle named chapstick
spark: uhh i had chapstick in my pockets when i caught it….
noire: i can’t believe you’re a team leader
(happens a month after this)
(thank you to nimiana for spaghetti, salvesilverio for wingdings, thecolossalennui for chad, pkmn-trainer-touko-tajiri for fearow, hymnofthevalkyries for sassycheeks, coffeemakernamedhank for chapstick, and the collective fandom for donglord LOL)
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No matter what your craft, I think this is something we can all relate to…. I certainly do! Nothing’s gonna get done if you just sit there worrying about mistakes!
So, a less-than-gentle reminder to GET YOUR BUTT WORKIN’! Get this catchy “Quit Bitching, Start Stitching” slogan on stickers, keychains/phone charms, and tees in my storenvy!
stickers x keychains & phone charms x t-shirts (limited available) x
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