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[mattiolilegnami]

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[distributorwoodpellet]

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[machinemg1]

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In today's world, the demand for sustainable and durable materials is higher than ever. Wood Plastic Composite (WPC) is one such material that has gained significant popularity due to its versatile applications and eco-friendly properties. Whether you're in construction, furniture manufacturing, or any industry requiring robust and sustainable materials, WPC is a fantastic choice. At Machinemg.com, we offer a comprehensive range of top-notch WPC machines designed to meet your manufacturing needs efficiently and effectively.

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At Machinemg.com, we understand the importance of quality and efficiency in WPC production. That's why we offer a diverse selection of cutting-edge WPC machines designed to cater to different production needs. Here’s a glimpse of what we offer:

WPC Extrusion Machines: Our state-of-the-art extrusion machines are designed to produce high-quality WPC profiles. These machines ensure precise mixing and uniform output, resulting in consistent and superior quality WPC products.

WPC Pelletizing Machines: For those looking to produce WPC pellets, our pelletizing machines are the perfect solution. These machines are engineered for high efficiency and reliability, ensuring smooth and continuous pellet production.

WPC Board Production Lines: If you're in the market for WPC boards, our production lines are equipped with advanced technology to produce boards of various sizes and thicknesses. These lines offer excellent performance and flexibility to meet diverse manufacturing requirements.

WPC Recycling Machines: Sustainability is at the heart of our mission. Our WPC recycling machines are designed to process waste WPC materials, converting them back into usable raw materials. This not only helps reduce waste but also lowers production costs.

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[pelletmachinew]

they need to be cooled to lower their temperature and moisture content

That Wood Pellet Generation Line

The wood pellet production line was made to process a a number of different raw products into solid biomass pellets. These pellets are available for many uses, such as resource for household heating system or industrial electricity generation. They might be made on a small scale by one particular homeowner manufacturing intended for personal use, to large commercial plants producing hundreds of millions of tons per annum. Biomass Pellet Mill Auxiliary Pellet production is often a complex process, and can involve a good number of steps, including killer, drying, pelletizing, air conditioning, and packing.

The key component of the entire wood pellet plant may be a pellet mill. There are many types of pellet generators, including flat pass away and ring cease to live types. Each type incorporates a specific design and capacity that is matched to the actual raw material utilized in a particular output. A hammer mill is also necessary to mash any larger types of raw material suitable size suitable intended for pelleting.

Before the live material is fed to the pelleting machine, it needs to be screened for any impurities which may interfere with the grade of the finished merchandise. For example, almost any stones, metals along with foreign objects should be removed from the actual raw material. Sometimes it is done by hand or by putting in a stone treadmill.

After the pellets happen to be produced, they need to be cooled to lower their temperature and moisture content. It is a critical step in the pelleting process, allowing it to be accomplished simply by blowing air throughout the pellets in the cooling bin. The ultimate moisture content from the pellets should be below 15 per cent.

Once the pellets happen to be cooled, they can be packed into bags for distribution or maybe storage. They must be stored in some sort of dry environment, since they are going to absorb moisture easily and definately will disintegrate if these people get wet. If at all possible, the pellets ought to be stored inside any building with large concrete side walls which will withstand the pressure of the pile of wood pellets.

The operating costs of any pellet production line change from one location to another, depending on regional factors just like labor and vitality costs. The highest price of any lumber pellet production line may be the capital cost, along with the purchase and installation on the pellet equipment. On top of that, there are additional expenses related to purchasing and taking the feedstock, as well as operating and preservation costs. Typical functional costs include labour, electricity and normal water.

[zzhuaiqngmachine]

How to improve the pelletizing rate of disc granulator

Disc granulation process is simple and the price is relatively cheap. In the organic fertilizer production line, most customers will choose disc granulator. How to improve the pelletizing rate of disc granulator has always been the concern of customers. So how to improve the disc granulator? How is the pellet rate of granulator? What should disc granulator process organic fertilizer notice?

1. Control of the Water content of granules In the production process, the most simple and practical method for preliminary detection of the water content of granules is hand feeling method: Grasp a handful of spherical materials from the disc granulator with your hand and hold them to form a ball. It is recommended to loosen it with a gentle touch of your finger. This particle, high yield, not easy to block the screen surface.

2, strict control of powder quality. According to the formula of organic fertilizer, carefully control the quality of various raw materials such as fertilizers. Iron blocks, stones larger than 10mm and wood blocks larger than 10mm are strictly prohibited from discharging and feeding raw materials. The quality index of rice bran and sand should not be too much, too much will seriously cause low yield.

3, the main technical points of the operation of disc granulator do a good job of the technical training of the disk granulator, improve the technical quality and operating skills of workers.

4. Select the nozzle of the disk granulator and adjust the nozzle. Disc granulator generally chooses B type spherical spiral or B1 type prototype spiral nozzle. According to the hydrodynamic proof, when the liquid is ejected from the nozzle, the higher the pressure, the smaller the through-hole and the larger the droplet diffusion surface. Under the same pressure, the nozzle hole is small and the droplet density is small. The spray hole is large and the droplet density is high.

5. The new type of shovel knife in the disc of the reformed disc granulator has good performance, and the size of the particles produced is uniform and beautiful. The blade material must be 16M. The blade is divided into front blade and back blade. There are no gaps.

[grillsadvisor]

Best Outdoor Grills $600 to $1,000 [ Wood Pellet ]

Looking to buy the best outdoor grill for between $600 and $1,000? You've come to the right place! In this post, we'll take a look at some of the best grills available in that price range and help you decide which one is right for you. So whether you're an experienced grill master or a beginner just starting out, read on for some tips and advice on what to look for when buying an outdoor grill. Top-list Wood Pellet Grill and Smoker $600-750 Best Wood Pellet Grills (Wi-Fi) under $1000 The best wood pellet grill under $750 Z GRILLS 700D3 Review https://youtu.be/ZMsDRAF7X2c Z GRILLS 700D3 FAQ The best Traeger wood pellet grill is $750 Traeger Grills Pro Series 22 FAQ The best wood pellet grill and smoker under $750 Camp Chef SmokePro DLX FAQ Hey guys, I'm back with another review for you. This time around we're taking a look at Camp Chef Smoke Pro-DLX grill - it has been specially designed to provide the best possible cooking experience and comes fully equipped so that your food will always taste it's absolute finest. After doing some research on the grill, I found that there were not many reviews available. So my goal was just kind of to give you guys an idea based on what others have said and let's start with mentioning how great this deal actually is.  I've been looking for a pellet grill or smoker ever since I bought my house. It's tricky because there are so many different models to choose from, but after weeks of research and comparing all their features it seems this one is perfect. I'm going to tell you right off the bat that I think this smoker is excellent It's really top-of-the-line and well made, which makes it look very expensive too. You could probably find a cheaper one but if your priority is quality over price then get yourself one of these babies because they aren't going anywhere anytime soon with their build skills. The most important thing to know about this product is that it's built like a tank and easy for anyone with any skill level. The results do you get from using the machine? Unbelievable! It makes smoking or grilling so simple because of its computer-controlled hopper - no more manual pickup adjustments are needed (thank goodness). The grill is a beast. It will tap out around 500 degrees, which makes it nice because most other pellet grills only get up to about 400 degrees hot. But if you've never used a pellet grill before, then all of your food will be cooked with wood pellets. You can choose what kind of woods to use in the hopper next door. When you're ready to cook, preheat the grill and then select your desired temperature This includes an adjustable fan that helps distribute heat evenly over all parts of food being cooked on it. You'll also find a dial with pointers for adjusting the flame height or cooking time if needed; simply turn whichever adjustment is appropriate until they match what's listed next under "cooking instructions".  The difference between well-cooked and burnt food is usually just a few degrees. If your cooking appears too precise, you can increase or decrease the temperature by five degrees at once with no risk of overcooking. Home ovens can be unpredictable and many people don't realize that the temperature inside is pretty much up to 20 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. The controlled setting will help you get a consistent cook, but even more important when it comes time for smoking your brisket or grill master's favorite meal - keeping those meats perfectly cooked through without burning them. It features an Ash-out system that gets rid of all the pellets and other ash in a clean, easy way. The grates themselves are ceramic coated cast iron, which is the best kind of grill you can use. They just really didn't skimp on any area and this includes smoking as well. If you are thinking about getting into barbecuing or if you're already doing it but looking for some new tools to help out with all those pesky tasks then I highly recommend these PE Grills. They're just so much easier than they used to be. You can go through the whole process of smoking meat and have it turn out the first time you cook if that is what interests you - but yeah definitely recommend these guys. The cover is a nice touch. It comes with the unit and it's actually designed to fit your grill perfectly, making for an ideal accessory in case you need one! Most other grills don't come equipped like this- covers can cost up to a hundred dollars or more depending on where purchased (and whether they have special colors).  So, have you considered the differences between grills? Well, I'm happy with this one and it's my favorite grill. It definitely is a great choice for those who are looking to buy their first grill or need some advice on what type of smoker would be best suited. The best charcoal grill under $750 Weber Performer Premium FAQ The best wood pellet grill under $1000 Traeger Grills Pro Series 575 FAQ The best quality pellet grill under $1000 Camp Chef Woodwind WIFI 24 FAQ Best Z GRILLS grills under $1000 Final Thoughts Editor’s Choice: Top-list grills under $200-$1,000 - Best Grills Under $200 - The best cheap kamado ceramic grill under $300 - The best charcoal grill under $400 - Best affordable grills under $500 on 2022 - The best pellet grill with Wi-Fi on 2022 - The best grill LP gas for pontoon boats Read the full article

[katalyna-rose]

Kat’s Rat Shopping List

I’ve gotten a few requests for a shopping list of my rat setup (tagging @collapseofthesky because they requested this, specifically, but I’ve had a few others message me), so I thought I’d give it a try and also add a few explanations for why I do some things the way I do. As such, this is going to be a very long post and is therefore under a cut. There will be a basic shopping list without all the explanations at the very end of the post under TL;DR if you don’t care about the rest or whatever.

I had a lot of fun with this and spent way more time on it than I meant to, and might be open to doing more of this kind of thing in the future.

Cage

First up, the cage. Obviously. I’ve said it before but it’s a Double Critter Nation and a Single Critter Nation with the side panels removed and zip tied together. These are sometimes sold in pet stores (the locally owned pet store I prefer has them in stock). I bought mine online because of a really good sale, but you can sometimes get really lucky and find them for resale on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist for super cheap. I love this cage because the whole front opens up and that makes it super accessible and easy to clean, decorate, and get to my pets wherever they may be. It’s also huge!

US minimum for rat cages is 2 cubic feet per rat, with a minimum of two rats because rats cannot be housed alone as they are extremely social animals. No, human companionship is not enough, rats need same-age, same-species companionship at all times. Please be aware, as well, that minimums are not the ideal to strive for. Whatever space you intend to dedicate to your rats, fill it! Fill it all up! And if you don’t have enough space for a large cage, don’t get rats. My setup, with the Home Depot/Lowe’s large cement mixing tubs in the bottom, is roughly 45 cubic feet of space. If we’re looking at minimums, this means I could house 22 rats! There’s no way that 22 rats could ever actually be comfortable in my setup. It would be insane, chaotic, and extremely messy. So why would 2 rats be comfortable in 4 cubic feet? They wouldn’t. More space is always better, hard stop.

Also remember that wire cages with bar spacing of no more than an inch for adult rats and no more than half an inch for small or young rats is a must. Tanks are absolutely not recommended for rats due to poor ventilation, which will cause respiratory issues and allow ammonia to build up much faster.

Bedding

This is different from nesting. Yes, it is. Bedding is the substrate used at the bottom of the cage or on shelves to catch errant droppings and urine, and is generally left where it is by the rats because they have no interest in it.

My main bedding is pine wood horse stall pellets. They are as dust free as the alternatives like shavings or paper pellets, and combine the best aspects of both those types of bedding with the ammonia-neutralizing effects of wood shavings and the compact, easy-to-clean nature of pellets. I love them. I also get them super hilariously cheap from Tractor Supply Co, so despite it being a little bit of a drive for me (about an hour round trip) the fact that it’s half the price of the next cheapest option more than makes up for it. I buy a bunch all at once and currently have a few bags left in my trunk because I didn’t have enough closet space for them. It’s great stuff. It crumbles when wet so it helps me keep track of how much and where they’re urinating, and it’s easy to spot clean those areas in between deep cleans.

When choosing a wood, if that’s the route you want to go, remember to check what is safe to use. Pine is only safe when it’s kiln-dried, since it contains fragrant oils that can cause respiratory issues in rats, mice, and hamsters. Some people will advise you to stay away from it entirely, and that’s fine, but since pine is often the cheapest option it’s not always viable. Aspen is a safe wood, but harder to find in pellet form and slightly more expensive as shavings. I use aspen shavings in my litter trays. Cedar wood is NEVER safe, no matter how it’s treated. I don’t think cedar is ever safe no matter what for any animal it’s marketed to, actually. It’ll cause respiratory distress in rats, mice, and hamsters, and guinea pigs and rabbits should never be on shavings regardless though I’m pretty sure they’ll still experience respiratory distress. The oils naturally in the wood are not safe, do not use cedar. Also make sure your bedding is as dust-free as possible, also for respiratory reasons. If you have a small animal, their respiratory system is extremely delicate, and that’s just a fact of pet ownership that you should have learned before getting a pet when you were researching how to care for it.

Since I have two shelves in my cage and they are both shallow to the point of not even having a lip (Critter Nation’s only flaw is the trays that come with the cage), I line my shelves with fleece over an appropriately sized bath mat. Fleece makes a great shelf liner, but I don’t recommend using it in the entire cage because it gets dirty really fast and most rats will chew it up, so you’ll both be changing it every other day and going through it super fast as it is destroyed. However, it makes great shelf liners, especially when very little of the shelf is actually available to the rats like in my setup, where the shelves are mostly covered in other things. Remember that fleece must always be lined with an absorbent layer underneath because the fleece itself allows liquid to pass right through it. That’s the point: the fleece stays relatively clean and dry while the absorbent layer takes all the gross stuff away. Towels are generally not recommended for this because rats can get their nails stuck in the fabric and rip them out, which is painful and distressing for the rat and also you. Anything super absorbent with a really tight weave will do lovely here, hence the low pile bath mats I use. I get them for one or two dollars at Ikea and wash them every week. I keep several around to rotate through. The fleece I use is also a fleece blanket from Ikea for a couple bucks that I cut into four sections because that rendered it the perfect size to tuck around the shelves. This makes my bedding extremely cheap, and that makes me happy because I can spend that money on enrichment instead.

Nesting

This is the material that the rats like to push around, dig in, and sleep in. It’s important to provide soft but preferably absorbent materials for the rats to nest in because it’s enriching, comfortable, and helps them regulate body temperature. Multiple types of nesting are recommended for enrichment purposes. Rats like texture! I use unscented, unlotioned tissues as a main nesting material for within their hides because they’re cheap, safe, absorbent, and soft. I bought 30 boxes of 100 tissues each for super cheap online, but you can also buy dollar store tissues or whatever you have access to. Just make sure they don’t have scents or lotions, because those are not safe for your rats’ delicate respiratory systems. The empty boxes (plastic removed) can also be given for the rats to chew up and play in, or you can save them up to DIY some fun toys later, which is what I’m doing.

I also have two dig boxes, which will also go under the enrichment section. The bins I got for cheap from Target, but obviously you can get bins wherever you want to get bins. Just measure to make sure they fit in your cage properly. The only dig box I want to talk about in this section is the hay box, because the dirt is not actually a nesting material but rather an enriching one. So, hay. My girls love this stuff so much that they drag it all over the cage to shove it into all their sleeping areas. They build actual rat nests in the box, tunnel through it, stash food in it, shred it for fun, and generally spend as much time as possible with the hay. I use oat hay for the seed heads that provide additional enrichment and snacks because the rats have to get to the seeds in order to eat them. If you are feeding a low-quality diet to your rats, do not use oat hay because they’ll fill up on seeds instead of eating their nutritionally-balanced food and that is not good. My rats love their food so much that the seeds are a sometimes snack that I don’t need to regulate because they do it themselves. Any good quality hay will do for a hay box, however, and timothy hay tends to be the cheapest option. Just make sure it’s not super low quality, because low quality hay tends to be dusty. As mentioned previously several times, rats have delicate respiratory systems and dust is bad for them. I buy my hay from Small Pet Select because I like supporting small business, ethical business, and businesses that provide excellent products. They are, however, primarily a rabbit site. I keep hoping they’ll expand the other sections of their shop. Also, make sure your rats aren’t trying to eat the hay. This is highly unlikely because rats are smart and know what’s edible and what isn’t, and hay is not edible for rats. If for some reason your rats are eating hay, do not give them a hay box.

Other nesting options I’ve used in the past include cut up bits of fleece, cut up old clothes you might have lying around, and generally just bits of fabric. Just remember to change out/wash them regularly. Ammonia will build up, and once again that’s bad for your rats’ respiratory systems.

Hides and Hammocks

Rats are prey animals. Surprise! As such, they need plenty of places to hide and feel safe. Rats love small, dark places to rest in. Much like many introverted humans, myself included! Make sure to include plenty of hides all over the cage. Variety is excellent here for enrichment reasons. My rats absolutely love Space Pods! Lixit makes the ones I use, but there’s also a brand called Sputnik that’s basically the same thing. I’ve never seen them in stores, but they’re all over the internet. For rats, make sure you get the large size. Honestly I wish it was larger than it is, but oh well. The girls love it anyway. I kept getting sent only the bottom halves, which is why I have two half space pods in my cage. I got a refund or replacement on both because it’s not what I paid for, but, like… I received the usable half, so I’m gonna use it. The girls don’t like to sleep in them without the covers, but they’ll hang out in there and clean themselves, and they climb through them to get from one spot to another.

In addition to the space pods, I also have various other hides. Lixit also makes a pill-shaped plastic hide that I keep on the shelf over the dirt box. They used to use it a lot more than they do now, and I’m not entirely sure why. Even so, they still use it! I also have a woven grass tent that they enjoy, and a cork log. Neither of those are really for sleeping, but they do hide in them sometimes and generally like to hang out there.

Hammocks are great, and also available in wide variety all over the internet and in stores. My favorite banana hammock was just retired, but I intend to get another. The girls loved it and so did I! Hammocks come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, and can pull double duty as both a place to sleep and a way to break up the cage so there aren’t any dead drops where your rats can fall from a height and hurt themselves. Fill your cage with hammocks! All the hammocks! Support small creators by buying homemade hammocks! Learn to make them yourself! They’re cheap and easy! Hammocks are great.

Enrichment Part 1: Levels

Rats are climbers. Rats need vertical space as well as horizontal space. Rats are sometimes clumsy idiots who fall off of things. As such, all vertical space must be filled with all kinds of fall breakers. As mentioned before, hammocks are great for this. So are ladders, bridges, ropes, and that Ikea tie hanger I have strung across the back of my cage. If your rat falls from anywhere in the cage, make sure there’s something to catch them!

Also make sure there’s something to do on all the levels of the cage, even if that thing to do is just get from one level to the next. Rats are dexterous and adventurous. Ramps are boring because they’re easy. If you have sick or injured rats, absolutely use ramps! Accessibility matters! If your rats are of sound body, however, make them work for it. Lava ledges and bird perches make great alternatives to ramps. Screw them into the cage walls and watch your rats hop around! They love it. Ladders are also fun, especially if they’re not used the way ladders are meant to be used. Suspend them from things, put them at weird angles, just make sure they’re secure. I get a lot of my levels from the bird aisle at the pet store (or virtual pet store). Be aware that sometimes your rats are going to prefer to climb directly on the bars of the cage. That’s normal! The bars are there, so the rats will climb them. That’s all there is to it!

Climbing frames like the wooden wine rack from Ikea that I have in the bottom of my cage are also good to have. My girls love it, and it does double duty as a chew toy.

Enrichment Part 2: Chewing

Contrary to popular belief and old science, rats do not actually require chews to keep their teeth trimmed. Rats trim their own teeth by bruxing, or grinding their teeth together. This does not, however, negate the need for chews. Rats like to chew! What your rat likes to chew best is entirely subjective. Some rats love wood and sticks, some rats will always chew fabric over anything else, some rats will never chew fabric. Every rat is different! Try as much variety as you can and keep stocked up on the things your rats like best. My rats really like woven grass, and I try to keep at least a couple different kinds around for them. I keep a grass mat on a shelf that they like to pull apart, and the woven grass tent will likely have a short lifespan, as well. There’s a woven grass tunnel thing that they’ve put into the dirt box and are slowly but systematically shredding. My girls also like willow sticks, so I’ve got a couple hanging toys of willow that are very slowly being chewed because there’s so much else to chew. The wooden bridges see a fair bit of chewing, and even the lava ledges get chewed on the edges. My girls also love destroying rattan and wicker balls. I bought a bunch of them for cheap and toss a new one in there about every week or so. They love them. I also got a couple things from Small Pet Select like a pine cone, a bit of natural loofah, and a dried okra pod. So far the okra pod has seen the most action and is shredded halfway to infinity. I think they like that it has seeds inside, but the others get chewed sometimes, too. There’s enough variety in my setup that everything lasts a decently long time. Except the rattan balls.

Enrichment Part 3: Digging

As much as rats like to climb, they also like to dig. That’s why it’s highly recommended to have a dig box. Safe substrate is important here. If you’re going with potting soil, make sure it’s just dirt and doesn’t contain any fertilizer. Personally, I found potting soil to be kind of annoying a little expensive. I prefer coconut soil. I use Exo Terra terrarium soil, which is sold in compacted blocks that you have to hydrate. I use two thirds of the recommended water because my rats don’t need humidity. I use three blocks per dig box, and replace the soil every month because the girls will do their business in it sometimes, leave food in it, leave bits of tissue or hay or various shredded chews. Basically, the dirt gets dirty in bad ways and needs to be replaced sometimes. It can also grow things if left too long because of the humidity (which will be a problem regardless of the type of substrate being used). So every deep clean, both dig boxes get emptied, wiped out, and refilled.

The hay box gets an honorable mention here, since it pulls double duty as both nesting and digging. Triple duty, really, since it’s also a forage toy.

Enrichment Part 4: Misc

Yeah, I didn’t know what category to put this under, so here we are. Litter boxes! No, seriously, this counts as enrichment. Training your rats, whether it’s to do tricks or just poop where you want them to, counts as enrichment. Rats are incredibly smart! They’re at least as trainable as the average dog, especially if they come from an ethical breeder who breeds for health and temperament (let me just slide a reminder not to buy live animals from pet stores that source from highly unethical breeding mills in right here; please support ethical breeders and rescues), and will happily take to any training. Remember that positive reinforcement is the only ethical way to train an animal. Treats are great for this, and your pet will love you even more because every living thing loves food. My rats actually didn’t require much training for their litter trays. Make sure that whatever you’re lining the litter trays with is not the same as their normal bedding. If you’re using aspen shavings in the main cage, use pine in the litter trays, or literally any distinct safe bedding. I use shavings in my litter trays and pellets in my main cage. This helps the rats distinguish the litter trays from the rest of the cage and makes it easier to identify where to do their business versus where not to do so. When you first put the litter trays in, just go in at least once a day and toss any poops you see into the tray. If you see your rats using the litter tray, offer a treat while they’re doing so. Rats are extremely clean animals and they like their mess contained as much as you do. It would not be possible for me to only deep clean once a month if I didn’t have litter trays that I clean out about twice a week (or more, if necessary) to get rid of the majority of the mess and smell. I’d be deep cleaning every two weeks at least without them, so the litter trays are a great investment overall. Your rats will never be perfect about using them, because they’re still rats, but they’ll help a great deal.

Also under this section are forage toys! Do not feed your rats from a simple bowl, it’s boring and encourages stashing, which means you’ll never know when they’ve actually run out of food because they’re just going to pick it up and take it somewhere else and have a great big hoard that you’ll find on deep clean day. You can definitely scatter feed, that’s enriching as well because it makes the rats go looking for their food, but forage toys are the ultimate way to feed your rats, I think. I mostly don’t get my forage toys from the small animal aisle. I do have one that’s small animal specific, a little ball that they roll around the get the food out. I also have some marketed for cats, and some marketed for birds. Having multiple kinds is really helpful. I’ve also noticed that while some stashing still occurs, it’s greatly reduced. I refill the toys as they empty and everyone’s happy.

Food/Water

What you feed your rats is extremely important, obviously. Many commercially available pellet foods marketed for rats are actually extremely not good for rats. The same is true cat and dog food. It is a sad fact that the companies that make these foods tend to be far more interested in their bottom line than the health of your pet. As such, do your research! Always do your research! Know what’s in the food and what your animal should be eating, and try to match those two things up as closely as possible. In the UK rat owners typically will avoid pellet foods and prefer homemade mixes for these reasons, but making your own mix is not always feasible and can be tricky if you don’t know what you’re doing. Most US rat owners tend toward pellets because it’s a lot harder to mess up the balance of nutrients when it’s done for you. Also, the UK does not have Oxbow, which is one of the most popular brands of healthy rat food. It’s the brand that I use, and my rats adore it. Mazuri is another popular and healthy option, but my rats prefer Oxbow over anything else. I kind of want to try making my own mix at some point, but I’m not sure I ever will. Like with most of my rat supplies, I buy food in bulk because it’s cheaper. A 20 lb bag of Oxbow Essentials Adult Rat food runs me about 40 bucks. Be careful to buy adult rat food, even for baby rats, because any food that says Young Rat and Mouse is not going to have the appropriate balance of fat and protein even for young rats. Adult food will do just fine for babies, too. If you want to add some extra protein to their diet, try a boiled egg or bits of meat every now and then, but it’s probably not necessary as long as they’re getting enough food and some extra fruits and veggies now and then. If you want to try making a mix, do so much research before you try it, and make sure your ingredients are good quality.

Rats should also receive other foods in addition to their pellet or main food. Rats are omnivores and love fresh veggies, fruits, milk, eggs, and meat! Make sure you research safe foods before giving them to your rats, as not everything is safe. If you adopt your rats from an ethical breeder, they should have resources available to you on what’s safe and healthy. If you rescue, you can still reach out to established ethical breeders for tips and tricks, or find lists online as you do your research. Some veggies are only safe cooked, some parts of certain plants are unsafe while others are safe, and some foods are only safe for males or females but not the other sex (citrus and mango are the ones I remember that fall into that category). Just do your research and try to keep processed foods away from your rats. Sodium is also not good for them. Any raw meat or fish should be frozen and then thawed before being fed to your rats to kill any potential contaminants. Like always, do your research first!

Rats obviously require water, as well. Water bottles tend to be the most widely accepted way to give rats water, because they don’t evaporate and are easy to keep clean. I, however, have a terrible time with bottles, and they always leak or break. Thus, I have opted for water bowls instead. The girls love them more than the bottles I’ve used in the past, and they’re a little more enriching, as well. The only downside is that I have to wash them out daily. But since I spot clean daily anyway, I don’t mind at all.

First Aid Kit

Any responsible pet owner should always keep a first aid kit around, no matter what kind of pet they have. Pet owners who have particularly vulnerable pets should especially be careful to make sure they have a well-stocked first aid kit. This should include single-use sterile syringes without needles, gauze pads, vet wrap, infant/toddler ibuprofen or acetaminophen, medical tape, cat nail trimmers, and probiotic powder like Benebac. But most importantly, it should include the phone number and location of a vet that will see and treat rats. Have a vet picked out that you have confirmed will see and treat your pets BEFORE getting pets. If an emergency arises and you’re suddenly scrambling for a vet last second, not only do you waste precious time getting your pet the help they need but you may find out too late that the nearest rat-friendly vet is too far away. That means your pet will suffer unnecessarily and you are an irresponsible pet owner. Hard stop. If there is no vet within reach that will see rats, do not get rats. Rats will require a vet trip at least once in their lives, since all rats are extremely prone to respiratory illness. Sometimes this happens for no reason at all, because all rats possess a bacteria in their respiratory systems called mycoplasma. There’s no way to get rid of it and nothing you can do about it except make sure your rats live in a clean, well-ventilated environment with safe bedding and materials. Even with all this, sometimes your rats will get sick. That’s normal! Just make sure you can take care of them when it happens. As such, make sure you have a vet fund at all times of at least a couple hundred dollars, in addition to a well-stocked first aid kit and the name and location of an appropriate vet.

It’s also beneficial and enriching to syringe train your rats. What this means is putting a liquid treat like baby food, yogurt, or apple sauce into a syringe and giving it to your rats. This teaches the rats that the syringe is a good thing so that if you ever need to give them medicine from the syringe (rat medicine tends to be oral and dissolved in a liquid solution, so those needle-less syringes will be necessary) they’re more likely to take the medicine with minimum complaints.

Storage

Maybe it goes without saying, but you also need places to put all of the things for your rats. Keep your first aid kit in a box to itself so you always know where it is, and organize your supplies appropriately. I really like Ikea bins for my bedding and food and other dry bulk items, and I keep a lot of my smaller stuff on a shelf at the foot of my bed. Work with the space you have, and plan appropriately.

And thus concludes this extremely long explanation of the bare basics of healthy rat living. Really, this is the bare basics and not even remotely comprehensive of the options available. Be creative when shopping, and definitely look outside of the small animal aisle at your local pet store because it will not contain anywhere near all of what you need.

TL;DR: A Basic Shopping List of My Specific Setup

-Double Critter Nation

-Single Critter Nation

-Zip ties

-2 Large sized cement mixing tubs from Home Depot/Lowe’s

-Pine wood horse stall pellets

-Low pile bath mats, enough to rotate while washing

-Fleece blanket, cut in quarters to fit shelves, enough to rotate while washing

-Bins to hold digging substrate

-Oat hay from Small Pet Select or Oxbow

-Exo Terra coconut fiber terrarium soil

-Lixit Critter Space Pods, large

-Lixit Small Animal Hideout

-Woven grass mat

-Woven grass tent

-Woven grass tube

-Rattan/wicker balls, lots

-Willow stick hanging toys

-Natural loofah

-Sanitized (and therefore safe) pine cone

-Dried okra pod

-Dog ropes

-Wooden bendy bridges

-C-clips, both the kind meant for shower curtains and smaller ones marketed for kids, for hanging things

-Hammocks. All the hammocks. From everywhere hammocks are sold.

-3 (sometimes 4) Ware Scatterless Lock-n-Litter Small Animal Litter Pan, Regular

-Ikea tie hanger

-Ikea wine rack

-Ikea storage bins

-Forage toys

-Oxbow Essentials Adult Rat food

-Ceramic (and therefore tip-proof) water bowls, and/or bowls that can be attached to the cage

-Sterile single-use syringes without needles

-Gauze

-Vet wrap

-Medical tape

-Infant/toddler ibuprofen/acetaminophen

-Cat nail trimmer

-Probiotic powder like Benebac

-The phone number and location of a rat-friendly vet

-A vet fund of at least a couple hundred dollars

A final note before the end: Always remember to do your research before getting pets, do not get pets if you cannot provide a good life for them with MORE THAN the bare minimum requirements for safe and healthy pets, do not buy live animals from pet stores unless it’s part of a rescue program, don’t take the word of just one person as law, don’t be afraid to ask questions respectfully, and always seek new ways to improve your pet care. This has been a PSA from your friendly small animal enthusiast.

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[fortairsoft]

Best Airsoft Shotguns – The Definitive Guide

In the market for a new airsoft shotgun? One that will really up you’re game and help you become a seasoned pro?

This guide will show you exactly what the best ones on the market are and which one we recommend the most.

We will go over everything from

The most powerful

The most affordable

The best built and best looking design

What we believe to be the winner among them all

So if you want to go from a beginner to a pro in airsoft, then this guide is for you.

Lets get started!

The Best Airsoft Shotguns

CYMA Polymer M870

Our first one on the list is one of the most classics, and for good reason.

The M870 is an affordable option that packs a ton of features.

Sporting a tri-shot system which allows it to shoot 3 BB pellets with the single pull of a trigger.

This allows multiple sprays of the pellets over a long distance, making it much easier to hit a moving opponent.

This comes with a fairly high fps at 280 – 306 FPS, which is a monster for a shotgun.

This is a high powered spring design, but don’t let that deter you, this thing is incredibly quick to reload and provides enough power to hit even the fastest of moving targets.

The build of the M870 is fantastic

The outer design is made from aluminum and sold plastic and feels just like the real thing. You will not notice any weak points in this, meaning that it will last a long time before you encounter any issues.

For the lower price point, this is a great option for anyone wanting to try out how an airsoft shotgun works and feels while playing, which is why we recommend it so much.

Pros

Very affordable

Good fps for the type of gun

Solid build quality

Shoots triple BB’s at once

Very easy & quick to reload

Cons

Not enough accessories to add

Check It Out

FABARM STF12

If you’re after something with a little more bang for your buck, then this is the option for you.

With a fps of 300-310, this is one of the more powerful weapons out there, and it will really help you stand out from the other players.

Like the previous one we mentioned, the STF12 has a triple fire mechanism, which allows 3 BB’s to be shot at once, ensuring that you cover a greater range when trying to hit an opponent.

The reason why we like this one much though is because of the add-ons you can apply to it, they’re almost endless!

You can remove and upgrade the front and rear sight and comes with a built in hop up.

The top rail allows you to add everything from larger optical scopes, all the way through to a holder for your phone.

And did we mention that this is a pump action design, which makes the realism of using it even that much more sweet.

The build quality of this is fantastic, and we never had any issues when using it.

This is one of the better airsoft shotguns out there and can really help you up your game for your next match.

Pros

Large range of add-ons

High fps at up to 310

Tri shot mechanism

Fantastic build quality

Pump action firing

Cons

For some may be a bit on the pricey side

Check It Out

Hwasan Double Barrel

If its power you’re looking for, then have we got the right gun for you!

This is an absolute beast of an airsoft weapon, they do not come much more powerful than this.

The Hwasan green gas powered airsoft shotgun is one not to be trifled with, and you better hop someone on the opposing team doesn’t have one.

Like we said, this is a green gas powered product, so it has far more grunt than the spring powered options, and has a fps range of 420 fps.

That is a ton of power packed into such a small design, but it benefits you greatly.

As you can imagine, this fires two rounds of BB’s with the single pull of a trigger, meaning you can cover a large area , making it ideal for opponents who are on the move.

Due to the compact design, this can easily be carried on a belt with a holder, or even in the side of a backpack, allowing you to carry multiple weapons.

The design and build of this are fantastic to, with a solid wood grain handle and metal barrels and components, this one one of the best designed and crafted products out there.

Ive had this weapon in my tactical loadout for quite sometime not and I can say with out a doubt that its one of the finest airsoft guns you can play with, so we would highly recommend it if you’re looking for something that has the power and build quality of the real thing.

Pros

High 420 fps

Full metal and wood construction

Shoots dual BB’s at once

Green gas powered

Weight close to the real thing

Cons

The price may put some people off

Check It Out

CYMA M3

Now this is a design that will shriek fear in your opposing team.

The M3 is a design that resembles something more along the lines of the terminator, with its beefy pump action, all the way down to its matte black finish.

This houses a triple pump action firing system that will shoot 3 BB’s with the single pull of a trigger, meaning your opponents aren’t going to get out of this one easy, so they better have their body protection on.

The triple shot design makes it so you can spray the other team with pellets from a greater distance, but while still covering an area that will be hard for them to escape from.

The velocity on the M3 is around 280- 306 fps.

While not one of the most powerful out there, the triple shot makes this a worth while purchase, and the accessories that can be added is a big selling point.

It comes with a built in hop up system, ensuring you have a straighter shot and can be customized with endless scopes and sights due to the built in railing on the top of the weapon.

The matte black coating not only looks hardcore, but it feels great on the plastic and metal, giving it a much more realistic feel than some of the other products out there.

The pump action is also so smooth, there is no jamming, no awkward movements, nothing, just a smooth back and forth and the BB’s are ready to be fired.

This is a great option for the more experienced players looking for something a little more realistic and for people wanting a triple shot system.

Pros

Beautiful matte black finish

Triple shot firing

Up to 306 fps

Tons of accessories like scopes can be added

Built in hop up

Cons

Would be good if it held more shells

Check It Out

Final Thoughts

While there are a large range of airsoft shotguns out there, we believe these ones to be the best of the best.

We have tested and tried these and have had no real issues with any of them, meaning you shouldn’t either.

Using this type of gun during a match is a little different than using a pistol or rifle. While those weapons that be used in a stealth type way, crouching behind a bush, aiming carefully, the shotgun is more of a run and fire type weapon.

This means that you need to choose one that has a solid build quality, at least a dual firing setup and one that can store shells and is very easy to reload, and you are going to be doing a lot of it.

We hope this list was helpful and you find the exact airsoft shotgun you are looking for, happy playing.

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Guide to Wood Hammer Mill – What Should You Know?

Wood hammer mill is a type of multifunctional wood devastating machine, it can be used for crushing small diameter supply such as corn straw, branch, herbal and so on whose span is fewer than 50mm, after crushing, the material greatness can reach 3-5mm.

Progressive technology, high quality, and affordable value make it prevalent in wood pellet plants and biomass briquettes manufacturing lines. It is ideal to find a reliable wood block hammer mill manufacturer to buy the best quality product for your application. Below, I’m going to share some important things about wood hammer mill that should you know.

Wood Hammer Mill Highlights

The hammer edge is completed of high-quality carbon alloy steel, which is robust and wear-resistant.

Fortified with an air blower, the crushed supply can be straightly composed and transported to the subsequent machine for further dispensation.

You can alter screening sieve rendering to dissimilar material grinding supplies. You are able to modify the following sieve with a screening hole span of 0.8mm, 1.0mm, 1.2mm, 1.5mm, and 2.0mm.

Low energy consumption, high productivity.

A low sound, expedient to maintain.

Wood Hammer Grinder Structure and Working Principle

The main structure of the wood hammer mill is composed of a suckling plate, crushing compartment, and delivery device. The rotor in the devastating room contains a disc and a mobile hammer.

Working Principle: Material is placed from the feeding platter and then they drip into the crushing room, scrubbed, and squeezed constantly on the gear board by the high-speed hammer, the supply is crushed into the element size as the buyers’ necessities. The processed substantial is transported to the gatherer by the fan and assigning pipe and they will be detached again in the collector. At last, the wood powder is discharged from the bottommost of the gatherer and air is unconfined from the top.

Benefits of Hammer Mill

It produces a designated top size deprived of the prerequisite for a shut circuit smashing outline.

It carries usually numerous size movements with at least fines because of self-characterization.

It has a high reduction percentage and high limit whether applied for important, auxiliary, or tertiary devastating.

Its effortlessness in accumulating permits humbler nearby development.

Temperately sensible energy requisites.

Where supplies are best fractured by sway from gruff sleds.

It is appropriate for devastating a wide range of types of supplies.

It devours a little space.

It is not tough to possess up with and clean.

How to Choose the Wood Hammer Mill?

First of all, you should adaptable the hammer blade liner speed rendering to the required product greatness. If you want to get fine residue or grind hard supply, you should advance the linear speed. On the conflicting, a little lower rapidity is essential. For crushing fiber products, the hammer blade linear rapidity is about 100-110m/s.

Select suitable wood hammer grinder rendering to your required dimensions. The size of the grinder kind regulates the quantities of the production, rendering to the outline of the grinding procedure, the choice of grinding machine construction should be better than 10% of theoretical effectiveness.

Pay Attention to Wood Hammer Mill Operation

Grinding size is considered by the dimensions of sieve hole, the wood hammer mill is coordinated with numerous dissimilar sizes of screens, can be designated according to necessities

Before plummeting the material into the grinding compartment, the worker should eliminate the contamination such as metal, stone, and some additional hard substances.

If the raw material distance is more than 50mm, they should be treated by a wood chipper first.

These are some important things that you should know about wood hammer mill. You can find a reliable wood block hammer mill supplier to buy the best quality product at the best possible prices.