#wgsn 2013
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References
Daniel Rivas (2023) What is a Gym community? https://ninjathlete.com/en-gb/blogs/article/what-is-a-gym-community [3rd May]
Ferris Jabr (2013) Let's Get Physical: The Psychology of Effective Workout Music https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/psychology-workout-music/#:~:text=Music%20distracts%20people%20from%20pain,usual—often%20without%20realizing%20it [28th April]
NinjAthlete (2023) Understanding Toxic gym culture https://ninjathlete.medium.com/understanding-toxic-gym-culture-e45e49efca23 [3rd May]
The Gym Days (-) What is the best music to listen to in the gym https://thegymdays.com/blog/what-is-the-best-music-to-listen-to-in-the-gym/ [3rd May]
The Student Room (2015) Why do so many girls wear skimpy outfits to the gym? https://www.thestudentroom.co.uk/showthread.php?t=3645849 [1st May]
WGSN (-) Active Intelligence – Women’s gym tribes https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/78041 [29th April]
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FAS3002- Critical lecture 2
Cause and effect relate to things that happen because something prompted them to happen. In fashion and textiles there are many factors that can affect what changes, these are, sustainability, consumerism, innovation, division of wealth, social media and politics & power.
Can fashion be political? The answer, yes, it always has been. Throughout history there has been many examples of political fashion, for example in the Middle Ages people weren't allowed to dress above their rank. In a more modern era power suits became an image of power in a "greed is good" society. In an interview for vogue, Andrew Bolton, the head curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Arts Costume Institute states that, "Fashion functions as a mirror to our times, so it is inherently political" (Singer, 2020). In regards to our brand, politics and power plays a role as pregnant people within a working environment may feel like a burden. Co-workers and supervisors may have a negative connotation and hold stereotypes that can affect pregnant people. The London School of Economics and Political science held an interview to find out how many pregnant people have issues when it came to being pregnant and having a job. A shocking 80% of people were worried that their professional image or people’s perceptions of their ability to work and their character would change due to their pregnancy (Little et al., 2018).
The distribution or division of wealth relates to the comparison of the wealth of various members or groups in a society. Global inequality is inevitable and is caused by poverty and social conflict, with the gap between rich and poor growing wider this could lead to political, economic and social catastrophes (Barloni, 2019). Division of wealth affects the age at which people become pregnant as younger generations don't have the means to support a child. With the average net wealth of 20 to 24 year olds being £2,600 (Yurday, 2013), the average pregnancy age in the UK has rapidly been increasing. In 2020 the average age for pregnancy was at 30.7, a big increase compared to 27.7 in 1990 (Statista, 2023).
Consumerism is the idea that increasing the consumption of goods and services purchased in the market is always a desirable goal (Hayes, 2022). The scale of which consumerism has grown has allowed for fast fashion to rise. During the pandemic the rise of online shopping was up 97% in August 2020, this impacts natural resources and effects the environment (Baggott, 2022). The fast fashion brand Boohoo saw a 50% profit during the pandemic even during a modern slavery factory scandal. The Leicester based factory was reported to be working during lockdown where workers were paid as little £3.50 an hour (Duncan, 2020). In regards to maternity wear consumerism isn't a huge issue as this type of clothing is bought on a need basis rather than a want. People are reluctant to buy products on a short-term life span.
These changes in consumerism trends have changed the way people buy, resulting in a more sustainable outlook. Hannah Borg from WGSN states that 85% of consumers are thinking more sustainably. The UN created an agenda for sustainable development which was adopted by all members in 2015. At the centre of this development are the 17 sustainable development goals or 'SDGs'. These goals were made to help create a better planet by 2030, by ending poverty, addressing climate change and fighting inequality (Global Goals, 2020). As a group we knew we wanted to try to find a way to make maternity wear more sustainable. The problem with having a product only for a specific time period is that it shortens the clothing lifespan. This is where the idea for adaptable maternity clothing came from.
Innovation is simply defined as the introduction to something new. In the fashion and textiles industry this can be applied to the introduction of robotic technology and AI. Chatbots have become the new platform for customer complaints and AI plays a role in forecasting the next big trends. During the pandemic digital fashion shows allowed designers to showcase their work safely, however many people struggled to access these shows as their technology didn't have the capability. As a group we found it hard to come up with innovative ways to reimagine maternity clothing, we initial came up with a cash back scheme. This scheme would allow people to send back their maternity clothing once they no longer needed it for a percentage of the original price, these clothes could then be washed and put back into rotation. This idea was scraped as the question of hygiene arose and it wasn't a practical idea.
Lastly the use of social media has allowed brands to catapult their new pieces into the public eye by using multiple platforms i.e. online ad campaigns, celebrity promotions, Tiktok and many more. Whilst it may be seen as a positive for the industry, social media is known to have negative effects. With the use of data storing, our devices record vast amounts of personal information which can be used to manipulate us. Targeted ads are just one way which we can see that our devices know what we want to see. More younger generations have seen a much darker side of social media, with the desperate seek of approval through likes and comments suicide rates have increased 56% between 2007 and 2017 for people aged 10 to 24 (Kiersz and Akhtar, 2019). The use of social media has allowed influencers that have become pregnant to document their journey throughout pregnancy. In doing this they have romanticised pregnancy and turned it almost into a trend. Babies are becoming promotional ads for new baby skincare, for example Kylie Jenner's KylieBaby skincare for kids. With the knowledge we have about the relationship between social media and influence on younger generations, the worry of younger pregnancies comes to question.
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FAS3002 Beginning the Design Process
Following the session on creating our fashion templates, we were introduced to how to begin our design process. Through collaging research, fabrics, and mark making, we could create a vision for our garments that would help us through the initial design stages.
I started by looking on WGSN around our shortlisted trend boards, but particularly focused my research on garments with adaptive fabrics and designs. This included the above images by the main brands I had discovered, and their most youthful styles. In particular, the above dress by Chet Lo involves a ‘popcorn’ fabric which is something I have been exploring as a possibility for our tops or dresses. I paired these garment photos with different fabric styles and the various adjustment techniques I plan to design with, like ruching and elastic drawstrings.
Part way through this process, we decided as a group to focus on Prepare Wear, meaning I had more direction in the mood boards I was creating. I therefore collated these images and created a mood board to try and give our brand more of a direction. I used the polygonal lasso tool to cut out the fabrics and models, and played around with the presentation of the images. On a few images, I added a hue/saturation layer in order to have the photos be more cohesive in terms of their colours and brightness.
Overall, I am really pleased with how my mood board came out, although I am concerned it might not necessarily be how the rest of the group envisioned it to be. Visually, I feel this is very pleasing, and the colours and layout work nicely in pairing the garments and zips/elastics well.
Tariq, S (2022) A List of best 10 Thin Lightweight Fabrics for Dressmaking. Available at: https://sewguide.com/thin-lightweight-fabrics/ [accessed 7 February 2023]
Baselitz, G (1995) Untitled. Available at: https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/baselitz-no-title-p77964 [accessed 7 February 2023]
Batt, J (2013) DIY Ruffle Garland. Available at: https://thesweetestoccasion.com/2011/02/diy-ruffle-garland/ [accessed 7 February 2023] Francis, S (1957) Around The Blues. Available at: https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artists/sam-francis-1113 [accessed 7 February 2023]
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3x3 Rule
The “three times” rule is a model which is used to test the validity of a trend across different industries or creative disciplines. This is to determine if a trend spotted in one industry is beginning to emerge in another.
According to the 3x3 rule you should identify examples of three products e.g. pieces of clothing representing the fashion industry. The next step is to find 3 items that share similar aesthetic, social or conceptual properties in 3 different areas or industries such as art, architecture, technology etc.
I completed my own 3x3 model to demonstrate how it works in identifying a trend across industries.
I used one image from the WGSN fashion feed as a starting point to complete the triangle. I included two other fashion examples inside the triangle and 3 connected examples from other industries/creative disciplines on the outside.
The link between all these images is visual and aesthetic links. The interior design, beauty, fashion and product design.
W started to see a resurgence of the marble texture in Fashion around 2013 and since then it has become very popular. Marble texture started being applied everywhere: from metal to leather, paper, fabric, vinyl etc. The trend has passed from industry to industry: from fashion, to interior decoration, home appliances, dinnerware, household linen, sport wear, consumer electronics accessories, packaging etc.
Marble’s use in architecture, art, and design dates for thousands of years to early Egyptian and Mesopotamian cultures. Major consumption of marble is found in countries, like the United States, India, China, and the ASEAN countries. Marble is associated with sophistication and luxury. The global marble production value is expected to increase from 52 billion USD in 2016 to 64 billionUSD in 2023. The use of the marble stone has been reinventing from architecture, interiors, furniture, lighting, art, homeware, and clothing.
One industry in which marble texture has revealed to be a big seller in the last years is beauty. Established brands as well as new players have used striking marble packaging to convey a sense of luxury and exclusivity.
The image I used as a starting point, displays more organic marbling patterns for S/S 21, helping to evolve this hugely successful print story for another season. Although the print is primarily youth-driven, this look can easily pivot for the mature consumer with a muted palette and smaller-scale repeat.
Credit @chainkyr Date Published10.14.20
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reading week
trend forecasting
Trend forecasting is a skill which professionals use to predict what consumers are doing and wearing in years to come. Fashion forecasting's help retailers and brands design clothing in a fixed pattern minimizing the risk of consumerization and it is also a way two steps ahead of their target consumer. Trend forecasting is used to inspire individuals to be excited about clothing's and making them wanting to buy more therefore this creates loyalty towards the consumer, retail/brand. There are many things in trend industry such as: interior designers, illustrators, graphic designers, news reporters and fashion buyer's.
colour pallet
In this trend In 2021 so far we have seen that colour trends that are popular is; Mint and dark green, burnt coral, rust, brown and bubble gum pink.i have got those colours from the website https://www.canva.com/learn/color-trends/ the website is made by the three authors: Melanie Perkins, Cameron Adams and cliff Obrecht. it was launched in 2013 i have picked this as the colors i like as it goes with the trend
key fashion shapes
the most common fashion trends are mainly the Geometric shapes
Cut out shapes Ruffled Pletes Structured shapes , off the shoulder
This is a cut out top which are trending over social media and other platforms that are popular
trend reporters
Trend reporters are people who provide different kind of reports that are working with shop companies looking at the sales making charts to show how trends rises and how they develop throughout the period of time. With trend reports it allows them to do updates. On page 37 from the book fashion trend forecasting the author Gwyneth Holland Rae Jones. Shows that trend reporters use “seasonal updates, street-shot photography, consumer insights etc” this portrays that there are many insights and background studies reporters have to do in order to know about the trends.
WGSN
WGSN is worth global style network. from the book fashion and forecasting this is the trend company. In the book fashion and forecasting the author Holland Rae Jones on page 39 reports that “the agency includes service such as wgsn in stock which tracks stocks and selling patterns” the wgsn website shows you different seasonal trends colour pallets designs concepts of the trend the key shapes the garments also the fabric that is used.
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[1.24] Citation
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Hill, M. (2020), What is Circular Fashion?, https://goodonyou.eco/what-is-circular-fashion/ , [Accessed: 2 Jan 2021]
Holland, G. and Jones, R. (2017), Fashion Trend Forecasting, 1st Edition, London: Laurence King Publishing.
IKE, (N/A), 2020 S/S, http://www.seoulfashionweek.org/designers/view/537/2020SS/IKE/, [Accessed: 19 Jan 2021]
Juma, N. (2020), 60 Fashion Quotes Celebrating Design and Your Favorite Designers, https://everydaypower.com/fashion-quotes/, [Accessed: 18 Jan 2021]
KettleFire, (2020), Typography Explained: A Quick Guide to Font Terminology, https://kettlefirecreative.com/typography-explained-font-terminology/, [Accessed: 14 Jan 2021]
Kim, J. (2019), (N/A), Instagram, 30 June, https://www.instagram.com/p/BzVdLuNnxqJ/, [Accessed: 14 January 2021]
Matoshi, T. (2020), (N/A), Instagram, 11 August, https://www.instagram.com/p/CDwRCw2nsnl/, [Accessed: 15 Jan 2021]
Nudie Jeans, (N/A), The Sustainable Product, https://www.nudiejeans.com/sustainability/sustainable-products#repair-kit, [Accessed: 2 Jan 2021]
Phelps, N. (2020), Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/dolce-gabbana/slideshow/collection#36, [Accessed: 18 Jan 2021]
Phelps, N. (2019), Giambattista Valli Fall 2019 Couture, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-couture/giambattista-valli/slideshow/collection#30, [Accessed: 15 Jan 2021]
Pithers, E. (2020), The 11 Biggest Autumn/Winter 2020 Trends, https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/gallery/autumn-winter-2020-fashion-trends, [Accessed: 3 Dec 2020]
Stella McCartney, (N/A), Fibres from Forests, https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/sustainability/themes/materials-and-innovation/fibres-from-forests/, [Accessed: 3 Jan 2021]
V&A Museum, (N/A), The Baroque Style, https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/the-baroque-style, [Accessed: 7 Jan 2021]
WGSN, (N/A), WGSN (All features), https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/fashion, [Accessed: 24 Nov 2020]
Whelan, J. (2019), The Revolution Will Not Be Serifised: Why Every Luxury Brand’s Logo Looks the Same, https://www.businessoffashion.com/opinions/luxury/the-revolution-will-not-be-serifised-why-every-luxury-brands-logo-looks-the-same-burberry-balmain-balenciaga, [Accessed: 14 Jan 2021]
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References
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Birdsong (2020) Collections aw20 Available at: https://birdsong.london/collections/aw20 Accessed 18 January 2021
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BirdSong (2020) BirdSongLondon Available at: https://birdsong.london Accessed 27 November 2020
CoxandCox (2020) Textured ceramic table lamp. Available at: https://www.coxandcox.co.uk/textured-ceramic-table-lamp/ Accessed 27 November 2020
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STORY mfg. "Honesty is key for us and it all leads back to authenticity. As consumers ourselves we want to know how our goods are made, not just because we want to make informed choices, but because we love seeing the process.” - ‘STORY mfg.’ Will the pandemic create a more conscious consumer? Yes, if the increasing popularity of slow fashion brand 'Story mfg.' is anything to go by. The unisex label, founded in 2013 by British husband-and-wife duo Saeed and Katy Al-Rubeyi (a former trend forecaster at ‘WGSN’) has seen sales of its signature tie-dye T-shirts and hand-embroidered dresses rise by a staggering 200 per cent since lockdown began in the UK in March — something the couple puts down to a change of heart on the part of shoppers. Not bad for a brand that started out as a side-project with a then-pioneering socially and environmentally conscious agenda. Which is where the label’s name comes in. ‘Story mfg.' represents the couple’s desire to tell a story through their garments, with ‘mfg’ being a common abbreviation for manufacturing. Their pieces are handcrafted by artisans in India and Thailand, using carefully chosen natural and organic materials. It’s an approach that’s resonated with high-profile fans Gigi Hadid and Hailey Bieber. #neonurchin #neonurchinblog #dedicatedtothethingswelove #suzyurchin #ollyurchin #art #music #photography #fashion #film #words #pictures #neon #urchin #positiveproductmanifesto #ethical #artisan #green #nowaste #environmentalyconscious #handcrafted #textiles #fashion #brighton #katyalrubeyi #saeedalrubeyi #bobbintrheadbare #storymfg (at Brighton) https://www.instagram.com/p/CCVqSckljSS/?igshid=1ejf2cx78j6wr
#neonurchin#neonurchinblog#dedicatedtothethingswelove#suzyurchin#ollyurchin#art#music#photography#fashion#film#words#pictures#neon#urchin#positiveproductmanifesto#ethical#artisan#green#nowaste#environmentalyconscious#handcrafted#textiles#brighton#katyalrubeyi#saeedalrubeyi#bobbintrheadbare#storymfg
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METODOLOGÍA DEL DISEÑO
PROBLEMA
Crear una colección de 5 diseños originales siguiendo la metodología del diseño.
DEFINICIÓN DEL PROBLEMA
LÍMITES
Entregar el 6 de julio.
No me han llegado mis colores.
Organizar mi tiempo.
Como solamente cuento con lápiz, hacer una colección a blanco y negro.
Aunque a veces hago dibujos muy buenos, otras veces dudo de mis capacidades.
CARACTERÍSTICAS
Deben ser 5 diseños originales.
Las ilustraciones son en técnica libre.
La colección debe seguir una tendencia y un mercado.
Me gustaría hacer una colección para mujeres.
Todos los diseños serán en blanco, negro y grises.
RECOPILACIÓN DE DATOS
¿En qué me voy a inspirar?
Madison Montgomery y Zoe Benson, personajes de la serie American Horror Story: Coven.
¿Qué tendencia me gustaría usar?
“Minimalismo Exclusivo”
¿Dónde puedo encontrar las tendencias de moda actuales?
WGSN: PDF
¿Para quién voy a diseñar?
Mujeres jóvenes de 18 a 30 años, liberales y de mente abierta a todo lo diferente, con gusto sobrio, sofisticado y atemporal.
¿Qué colores usaré?
Usaré blanco, negro y grises.
¿Qué silueta o siluetas me interesan?
Shift, columna y corte A.
¿Qué principios del diseño se relacionan con mi tema de inspiración?
Anomalía de Color.
¿Cómo es ese mercado?
Este mercado al ser joven está más involucrado y activo en redes sociales, por lo que sería la mejor forma de hacerse publicidad.
¿Qué se ha hecho parecido a lo que quiero hacer?(Estado del Arte)
Celine Otoño/Invierno 2020-2021 Pret-a-Porter
Saint Laurent Primavera/Verano 2013
Serie American Horror Story: Coven creada por Ryan Murphy.
¿Cómo puedo hacer mis ilustraciones más interesantes?
Como la ilustración será en blanco y negro, usar acuarela roja en el fondo para formar una especie de mancha que agregue color y que simule sangre.
¿Que emociones quiero lograr en el espectador?
Miedo, empoderamiento, misterio, tensión y superioridad.
ANÁLISIS DE DATOS
El tema principal será la serie “American Horror Story: Coven” los diseños se basan en la estética tan marcada en el diseño de vestuario como de espacios en la serie que la diseñadora de vestuario Lou Eyrich se inspiró estando en Nuevo Orleans, looks insprados en YSL de la decada de los 70’s pero haciéndolos más modernos. En una entrevista Eyrich afirma que el look es “Voodoo and Witchy Chic” y que una bruja de los 70’s combinado con el de una bruja moderna.
Cada look será temporada Otoño/Invierno 2020-2021, Subtendencia “Minimalismo Exclusivo” (WGSN).
Será una colección enfocada a mujeres sin embargo cualquiera puede usarla, con el objetivo de brindarles piezas atemporales que siempre podrán usar y se puedan sentir empoderadas con ellas.
El estilo de la colección será Witchy Chic para un rango de edad de 18 a 30 años.
Las siluetas que utilizaré serán shift, columna y corte A.
El principio del diseño que usaré será la Anomalía de Color del contraste del blanco con el negro.
La paleta de color utilizada será de blanco, negro y grises, tal vez rojo para el maquillaje y el fondo únicamente y los materiales serán satén, piel, organza y algodón.
Las emociones que quiero transmitir son miedo, empoderamiento, misterio, tensión y superioridad.
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Reference List
Lauren Alexis Fisher and Jennifer Algoo, March 2019, 80’s trend, available @
https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/g6549/80s-fashion-photos/?slide=10
[accessed on 26/3/2020]
Sarah Sheehan, aug 2011, vogue pattern, available @
https://blog.pattern-vault.com/2011/08/29/christian-lacroix-vogue-patterns/ [accessed on 26/3/2020]
tamumcpherson, 2020, Neiman Marcus dress, available @
https://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/rotate-fashion-brand/slide4 [accessed on 26/3/2020]
chook digital agency-04-13,80s Timeline available@
https://www.nationalgeographic.com.au/history/the-80s-timeline.aspx
Charlie teather-22-01-20, 80s Fashion Icons,
available@https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/gallery/80s-style-icons accessed on 28/03/20
Laura Tortora-3/8/11-Vivian Westwood 80s Designs, available@
https://www.vogue.it/en/people-are-talking-about/vogue-arts/2011/08/03/vivienne-westwood-exhibition?refresh_ce=#ad-image71388 -accessed on 29/3/20
WGSN Catwalks team/02/12/20, New York Fashion Week: Catwalk Need to Know A/W 20/21-Available@: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/86274/page/8 -accessed 29/3/20
Ulla Johnson 2020 Collection—Available@:
https://ullajohnson.com/collections/ready-to-wear?page=2-Accessed 30/03/20
Joey Wong-03/13/20-Collection Review: Women’s Key Items A/W 20/21-Skirts-Available at:
https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/86474/page/9--Accessed-30/03/20
Anna Ross/Joey Wong-23/03/20-Collection Review: Women’s Key Items A/W 20/21—Dresses-Available@https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/86487/page/9-Accessed on-30/03/20
Christa Kaufmann—19/03/20- Collection Review: Women & Young Women’s Key Items A/W 20/21—Jackets &…. Available@https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/86627/page/8https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/86627/page/8 -Accessed on-30/03/20
Poshmark-03/2020-Chistian Dior 80s Suit -Available@https://poshmark.com/listing/Size-2-Christian-Dior-Power-Suit-EUC-Vintage-80s-5ae28ebf84b5ce72d353122c-Accessed on- 01/04/20
The guardian-10/04/13-Margarete Thatcher-Her fashion legacy in pictures-Available@
https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/gallery/2013/apr/10/margaret-thatcher-her-fashion-legacy-in-pictures -Accessed on- 02/04/20
Sarah Lindig-04/18/19- Power Dressing 2019-Available@https://www.thezoereport.com/p/power-dressing-in-2019-10-successful-women-weigh-in-on-what-it-means-17036992-Accesed on-06/04/20
Anna Ross/Laura Yiannakou-Women’s Style Trend Concept A/W 21/22/: Phantasmagoria-Available@ https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/85796/page/10
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A notable fashion influencer is hip hop icon Kanye West - pictured in 2013 wearing distressed jeans in the late 2013′s, a few months before WGSN released their report of distressed jeans reminiscent of the grunge style making a comeback.
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Reclothing Bank
Reclothing bank is another company that WGSN also highlight on there website. This company was founded by Zhang Na in 2011.
Designer Zhang Na dismantles old clothes and deadstock materials to create sustainable garments this way consumers are less reluctant to buy.
The company donates 1% of its profits to environmental protection programs in China.
Reclothing bank provide ethical working conditions and prioritise sustainability across its company's supply chain.
In 2013 she was reported as the ecological hero of china by The Bund. The following year Zhang Na was reported most creative people in Business 100 by FastCompany.
After that in 2015 she was awarded one of the top 30 Chinese designers by Forbes. Followed by an award as the top 10 Chinese designer of the new generation by City Zine in 2016.
These are just a few of her accomplishments in the sustainable fashion industry.
I am truly inspired by her creativity and passion for sustainable fashion. I find her designs to be very interesting and fashion forward.
These are just a few of her designs from the Shanghai fashion week spring and summer 2020 collection.
Reclothing Bank
https://www.shanghifashionweek.co....
WGSN
https://www.wgsn.com/content/board/_viewer/#/80359/page4
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Bio-Wearables
“Los wearables se están usando para hackear y modificar nuestros cuerpos –así como para extender nuestras habilidades– al centrarse en nuevas áreas de rendimiento, salud y bienestar” (wgsn, 2019)
En este mundo tecnológico existen miles de gadgets que usamos a diario para mejorar nuestra calidad de vida. Estos son algunos de los avances más interesantes que han logrado cautivar nuestra atención:
“Antes: La ropa con carga solar apareció por primera vez en 1996 y estaba diseñada para mantener al usuario caliente mientras cargaba su teléfono móvil. En 2003, Garmin presentó el Forerunner 201, un dispositivo de clip que empleaba tecnología GPS para informar a los corredores de su velocidad, distancia y ritmo. En 2008, llegó el Fitbit Tracker original y a finales de la década, Fitbit ya era el dominador del sector de los wearables con una cuota de mercado del 30 %.
Ahora: Omsignal entró en el mercado en 2011 con su "smartwear biométrico": sus camisas de alta tecnología tienen hilos conductivos insertados que monitorean el pulso cardiaco, la respiración, los niveles de intensidad y el número de calorías quemadas. En 2013, las muy anunciadas Google Glass llegaron al mercado. Aunque nunca han llegado al mercado masivo, ahora se espera que aparezcan en una segunda versión. El Apple Watch llegó en 2015, y se convirtió rápidamente en el dispositivo wearable mejor vendido de la primera mitad de la década.
Lo próximo: La optimización es clave, pues los wearables van más allá de llevar un monitoreo para mejorar nuestro rendimiento e integrarse con naturalidad en nuestras vidas. El progreso hacia un sistema circular de creación y toma de energía será cada vez más importante. Los dispositivos insertados se colocan debajo de la piel para conseguir una experiencia de rendimiento completamente integrada, con manos libres y sin necesidad de portar un dispositivo. Según un estudio de Juniper Research, el crecimiento de los wearables en forma de relojes inteligentes de muñeca o de monitores de fitness está disminuyendo, ya que el público se inclina hacia los dispositivos integrados o que ofrezcan una interacción sin interrupciones con el usuario. Se calcula que el mercado de los wearables alcanzará los 350 millones de dispositivos vendidos en 2020, de los cuales los clásicos monitores de muñeca serán solo 190 millones y el resto serán propuestas nuevas y emergentes. Solo la ropa inteligente ya se espera que alcance los 30 millones de unidades vendidas para 2022, un crecimiento del 550 % frente a un crecimiento del 20 % de los monitores clásicos”. (wgsn, 2019)
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Can data predict fashion trends?
IN THE film “The Devil Wears Prada”, the character of Miranda Priestly, whose role is based on a feared Vogue editor, scolds her new assistant for not understanding fashion. Fashion, she tells her, is whatever a select group of designers and critics says it is. What she does not say, however, is that their judgments are themselves often influenced by another group: fashion forecasters, who predict what will be “in”. Might these seers of style in turn be undone by artificial intelligence (AI)?
Fashion forecasting has always been a peculiar profession. The business came into its own in Paris in the 1960s when agencies began releasing “trend books”, collections of fabrics and design ideas. Retailers use these books for inspiration as they put together designs.
The biggest of these forecasting firms is WGSN, with a market share of 50%. It employs 150 forecasters who scour the world’s catwalks, bars and clubs to spot the next big thing. Their findings are then combined with other data, from economic indicators to political sentiment. Petah Marian, a senior editor at WGSN, is confident that the methodology works. She says her colleagues often exclaim “I forecast that!” when visiting clothing shops.
Ms Marian’s confidence may seem surprising, given the lack of clear correlations between fashion and macroeconomic data. Not much evidence supports the theory of George Taylor, an economist, that hemlines rise with stocks, and Leonard Lauder’s suggestion that lipstick sales increase during a downturn. Even the co-founder of WGSN, Marc Worth, who sold the firm to set up a rival service, once stated: “Nobody can really predict or forecast trends.” If forecasters can claim accuracy rates of up to 80%, it is because their predictions are often self-fulfilling. Most major retailers buy trend books. For designers, they are a form of insurance: as long as they are widely used, the risk of being wildly out of step with the market is modest.
The business of forecasting is menaced by data-driven analysis, however. The clothing industry’s supply chain is becoming more digital and more flexible: Inditex and H&M, for example, aim to take an idea and turn it into a finished product ready for mass production in two weeks. In response, forecasting agencies are making use of data collated from retailers’ IT systems and have added short-term predictions to their portfolio of services. In 2013 WGSN launched INstock, a retail-analytics service, which uses past sales figures to predict upcoming bestsellers. EDITED, a competing service, provides “solid metrics” in fashion, claiming to use machine learning, an AI technique, in order to predict short-term sales trends.
Such offerings notwithstanding, the marriage of AI and fashion is still in its infancy. A study in 2014 found that the best predictive models get it wrong nearly half the time. But forecasters are likely to face rising competition as technology firms enter the market. Google, an online giant, now has a “Trendspotting” division. It releases a regular “Fashion Trends Report” based on the firm’s vast trove of search data. So far the results are basic: in 2016 slim “mom jeans” were on the rise while baggier “boyfriend jeans” were on the way out. But Olivier Zimmer, the project’s data scientist, says that the goal is to produce more sophisticated combinations of search and other data.
The dull edge of intelligence
Whether AI will ever truly replace the woolly methods of fashion forecasting remains to be seen. Some worry that using AI may dull design. The business has already become “pedantic” and a matter of percentages, says Michael Bennett, a former forecaster. But Julie King, a fashion expert at the University of Northampton, expects the ingenuity of exciting couturiers to prevail over the homogeneity of data-driven algorithms. If so, the Miranda Priestlys of the world won’t stop dictating what’s hot and what’s not.
This article appeared in the Business section of the print edition under the headline "AI la mode"
http://ift.tt/2v1fonw
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Gen Z - Who are they and how to reach them
Photo by Ben Weber on Unsplash
People don’t generally fit into nice neat boxes, however neat boxes can often be a very useful tool where marketing is concerned. We’ve recently been looking at the generation of the moment, GenZ, to find out what makes them tick, and how best to grab and hold their attention.
For those that aren’t sure, Gen Z is the cohort that came after Millennials, the demographic brought up in, and defined by, the digital age. Access to the internet, and consequently to almost any piece of information, the connectivity of social media and its ability to connect the world, group these people into a very distinctive bunch. The 2014 study ‘Generation Z goes to college’ reveals that this age group self-identify with being loyal, compassionate, thoughtful, responsible and open-minded, all factors, you might argue that are linked to the huge wealth of knowledge that each is privy to, through the use of the internet.
A study by WGSN suggests that we might go further than categorise this generation as one group, but instead suggests they can be split into two groups: Gen Me and Gen We. Gen Me are visible, social media sharers, follower focused, and photo obsessed. They are driven by style and can often be found scrolling through style blogs, shopping sites and various social channels. Gen We, in opposition, is defined as a much more caring group of individuals, driven by beliefs (individual and shared), interested in the wider picture and bigger ideas, driven to collaboration and the power of the movement, like a well-informed, connected group of revolutionaries.
How then, is it best to connect to these people? How is it possible to ensure that your message or brand reaches the Gen Z demographic? We’ve listed a few key characteristics from the wider group for you below:
Knowledge
Sometimes referred to as the ‘Internet Generation’, Gen Z were the first to not know life pre-internet. Several studies have shown that the typical Gen Z teenager will spend upwards of 3 hours on the internet, browsing, chatting and generally seeking out non-school related activities. One consequence of this is seriously frazzled parents, another is that many teens almost by a state of osmosis encounter thousands of pieces of information daily. Granted, some information may be irrelevant, and never to be used again, other pieces however might stick around.
One endearing trait of the group seems to be that they know they’re powerful in the knowledge that they keep. They are wholly aware that before making a purchase, they’re able to access public reviews as to whether it’s a good way to spend money, they know how said purchase is likely to boost their social status, they even know where they can get said product at a discounted rate, and probably you too, if you ask.
In order to speak on a level to this generation, brands need to be seen to be working much harder than ever before. Gen Zers need to know how this product is likely to maximise their lifestyle, and they need to feel that they’re being looked after, whether it’s in discount form, freebie form, or even in the form of priceless innovation.
Tip one: treat them like the brilliant bunch they are. They’ll know if you’re not sincere. And tell their friends and followers.
Kickbacks
According to the Gen Zers spoken to during a survey by The Guardian, the new going out is staying in. Rather than getting dolled up to totter the streets of their local town, this group prefer ‘kickback’s. Rather than screaming at each other over music, Gen Zers prefer the actual art of conversation (be is digitally or in the real-world) over a carefully selected meal. Rather than getting drunk on, well, anything that’s available, it seems Gen Z would prefer a well-chosen bottle of red. Everything seems a little more sophisticated, grown up and a lot more sociable.
We read a study featuring futurologist Rhiannon McGregor, who commented “they’re aware from an early age how they’re portrayed online and offline, so they curate themselves in a more conservative way.” What McGregor has hit upon is that to the internet generation, their online persona is just as (or perhaps more) important than the one in the real world. Crafting the ideal online persona takes a lot of time, thought and dedication, and so Gen Zers must work hard to meet in the right coffee shops, attend the right kickbacks and in general take as many artfully shot photos as possible, in order to reach the glories of ‘great online persona’.
Whilst those outside the generation might see this as a bit much, it’s actually really great when properly considered. They appear to be being more sensible, actually thinking, actually talking, and love a well curated room. What’s not to like?
Tip two: whatever you do, make your experience look great, be severely Instagram worthy, and capable of hosting an intimate kickback style evening. Think friendly, fun and sociable.
Sharing and Following
Going back to the WGSN study, mentioned previously, which splits the group into two camps; Gen Me and Gen We, it could be argued that their experiences of online behaviours are quite different.
You might argue that those leaning towards the Gen Me camp, are all about sharing content, placing themselves in positions to create great content, and are very mindful of their outward appearance, be it physically or the online personality created by where and who they hang out with. Gen Me’ers will therefore be drawn to, and will benefit from a different experience than those associating with Gen We. In order to get on their good side, you’ll likely be most helpful by giving them the ‘tools’ to create their desired online profile; e.g. makeup, beautiful backdrops and photo opportunities, chances to meet influencers and celebrities.
Those in the Gen We camp appear to have quite a separate agenda, are likely to have a more collective mind-set, with a ‘vintage’ belief in the power of the people, and particularly the power of youth. These seem to cut a less isolated figure, and can often be found to ‘follow’ content, which they then pass on, rather than creating their own. You could argue that this group is less about the face of their appearance, and instead is more focused on ideas and how they can make an impact in today’s world. Their access to the internet and a wealth of information has made them well informed, and aware of how social media (perhaps see previously as a little indulgent) can be very powerful. Campaigns involving collective thought and progression are likely to appeal to Gen We’ers.
One thing that is consistent across the group however, is their need for immediacy. Having been brought up with so much available so quickly at their fingertips, Gen Z has become used to a degree of speed both in accessing what they’re after, and in gratification for what they’ve shared.
Tip three: when marketing to Gen Z, try not to see them as a blanket group, all interested in the same things and outcomes. As with any group, there are sub-groups, and each will require different treatment. Pinpoint your audience and make sure you’re working for them, whatever you do, make the outcomes quick!
All in all, marketing to Gen Z offers some unique and really exciting opportunities. A powerful and knowledgeable bunch of people, requiring equally interesting and well-thought out campaigns to suit. Talk to us if you’re keen to reach this audience but are unsure how.
Megan John / @MeganWMSH
Further Reading:
Corey Seemiller “Generation Z goes to college” 2014.
Madden, Mary; et al. (21 May 2013). "Teens, Social Media, and Privacy". Pew Research Center. Retrieved 10 December 2015.
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Role of a Trend Forecaster.
Trend Forecasting relies on one thing: a successful Trend Forecaster.
This person has to be extremely good at predicting the future. They need to be constantly researching everywhere they go, finding out whats new in the world of politics, economics, technology, art, music, finally leading to fashion.
There are four essential parts to Fashion Trend Forecasting:
1. Research: analysis of data collected.
2. Link: personal relations, inspirations and auras.
3. Concept: the formulation of trends, counter trends and sub trends.
4. Release: applying to the product development and communicating with presentation materials.
Geraldine Wharry (fashion forecaster) has worked with huge brands including WGSN. During an interview in 2013 about her role as a trend forecaster she stated “Personally I’m constantly collecting ideas and images…once I see there is a flurry of images with one particular thread running through, its very easy to see this is a trend”. Although this sounds very simple, she also believes that this talent of spotting trends cannot be taught, so maybe you are just bought with it.
Although noticing future trends is a fantastic thing to be able to do, to be a top trend forecaster it is also vital that they know what happened in the past, from now back to 100 years ago. At the same time as they predict the future, they also need to take into consideration what happened in the past as well. Especially considering A LOT of old trends have been creeping back into fashion recently, for example flared trousers have made a massive come back in the past year.
So, as easy as trend forecasting may sound, its not. Following every single thing that’s going on in the fashion world, as well as every other aspect of society 24/7, doesn’t sound so easy to me.
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