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Side trip in Massachusetts unearths a hidden gem — Pioneer Valley

Bridge of Flowers. Spectacular view from and on the bridge...so unique.

Check out my latest column

https://www.timesherald.com/2022/10/21/side-trip-in-massachusetts-unearths-a-hidden-gem-pioneer-valley/

Separated from each other by the Connecticut River, Northampton and Amherst Massachusetts, and the surrounding area known as the Pioneer Valley, is home to many colleges, including Amherst College, Hampshire College, Smith College, Mount Holyoke College and the University of Massachusetts at Amherst. It is the latter where I received my graduate degree in Hotel, Restaurant and Travel Administration. Getting ready for my annual visit to my alma mater, I thought, the Pioneer Valley remains somewhat of a hidden gem. The area is the perfect weekend get-away that can be filled with one-of-a kind places to visit and tasty food stops.

My base for the exploration of the area is Hotel UMASS, 1 Campus Center Way, Amherst , https://hotelumass.com/ 877-822-2110. Located in the epicenter of the Campus Center; what an unusual experience it is to stay right on the picturesque campus. It is a teaching hotel, providing an educational opportunity for students in the University’s Hospitality Management Program, while offering a pleasant and welcoming experience for the guests. Enjoy complimentary continental breakfast. Take the elevator to the concourse level and choose from an array of dining options.

Did you know that Amherst, MA is where the prolific poet Emily Dickinson was born and raised? The Emily Dickinson Museum (https://www.emilydickinsonmuseum.org/280 Main St., Amherst, 413-542-8161) is dedicated to her poetic voice, writing about 1,800 poems. She led a quiet life and her work was not published until after her death in 1886.

Before checking in to the hotel, it has become a tradition to have lunch at Jake’s, http://jakesnorthampton.com , 17 King St., Northampton, 413-584-9613. It seems that the “Coolidge” has become my “regular.” Three eggs scrambled with roasted tomatoes, kale, roasted garlic), and goat cheese is served with home fries and toasted 3-seed sourdough. Be prepared to wait on the weekends, but it is worth it. I am told that Jake’s Burger and the pulled pork sandwich (slow roasted cane vinegar pulled pork (brined in-house), guacamole, jalapeno coleslaw, queso fresco and pico de gallo on a toasted brioche bun are popular. I do miss those perfect biscuits, that are no longer on the menu.

The "Coolidge" at Jake's. Three eggs scrambled with roasted tomatoes, kale, roasted garlic.

Pasta E Basta https://www.pastaebastaofamherst.com/ 26 Main Street, Amherst, (413) 256 – 3550 is the restaurant that’s become my new go-to, replacing Judie’s, a restaurant I patronized for forty years that unfortunately closed. The casual restaurant has three floors, the first being take-out with a few dine-in tables. The upper two floors offer full-service dining. As you enter the second floor you can smell the aroma of a Nonna’s kitchen; that’s because there is an open kitchen where the chefs are cooking. A variety of pastas are cooked to perfection. Popular, is the create your own pasta dish. First pick your sauce and style of pasta (there are a dozen of each), and then your add-ons (more than two dozen). My choice at my recent visit was Penne Romacampo (sauteed salmon, spinach, artichokes, and roasted peppers in olive oil, garlic and lemon sauce. Vegetarian and gluten free dishes are available. The portions are big, so you will probably take leftovers home… and you do want to save room for dessert. The dessert that I enjoyed was the olive oil lavender cake. I might just ask the chef for that recipe!

The gentle touch of lavender makes it a perfect dessert to have with a cup of cappuccino.

For a quick lunch or dinner, check out Antonio’s Pizza By the Slice, 31 North Pleasant Street, Amherst, 413-253-0808 http://www.antoniospizza.com First you’ll go to the glass window to pick your slices. You might be overwhelmed by the number of traditional and unique choices as you watch the pizza makers do their craft. Although I am usually one to choose the more traditional, when I am exploring the food scene for a column, I become more curious. Because I enjoy quesadillas, I tried a slice of the avocado quesadilla pizza (sliced avocado, pico de Gallo with cilantro, nacho chips, mozzarella and sour cream. Florentine dishes are a favorite, so the pizza version was the other slice (sauteed spinach with mushrooms and onions, chopped tomato, feta cheese, mozzarella cheese and tomato sauce. This one had a bit too much going on. Next visit I’ll try the Chicken Parmesan pizza (breaded chicken, shaved provolone, dollops of sauce, mozzarella cheese and a Tortellini pesto slice (cheese filled tortellini, mozzarella cheese and pesto sauce. From its humble beginnings in Amherst, they have expanded to a few other cities….is Greater Philadelphia on their radar?

A favorite coffee stop is Shelburne Falls Coffee Roasters, with locations in Northampton, 124 King Street and 273 Main St., and Shelburne Falls, 1207 Mohawk Trail. There are a few other locations in Western MA. Once you try their brews, you’ll probably order your beans online.

West End Pub http://www.westendpubinfo.com/, 16 State Street, Shelburne Falls, 413-625-6216, is located by the The Bridge of Flowers www.bridgeofflowersmass.org You might be lucky enough to sit by the window with views of the bridge, mountains and river. Being a small and quaint restaurant, you might have to wait a bit, so browse the nearby shops or walk along the Bridge of Flowers. It’s worth the wait. In the mood for a burger made from local grass-fed beef…. a couple of the choices, Chipotle Cheddar Burger and the Breakfast Burger (6-ounce burger on a grilled roll with lettuce and tomato, topped with bacon, a fried local egg and cheddar cheese. Chili, soups, salads, and sandwiches as well as vegetarian choices are on the menu. Want something more substantial? Dinners include shrimp and artichoke piccata, fish and chips, local beef meatloaf, and bistro steak. My dessert choice after the basic burger… Affogato (an Italian Sundae with coffee ice cream, hot fudge, Amaretto, espresso and walnuts.

One of the first restaurants I dined at when I moved to New Haven, CT in the early 80’s was Fitzwilly’s. It is long gone from here in the Elm City. While visiting the Pioneer Valley I sometimes pay a visit to Fitzwilly’s, 23 Main Street, Northampton, www.fitzwillys.com just for nostalgia’s sake. This is the original location and has been here since 1974. The restaurant is known for their big burgers as well as interesting twists on classic comfort food like autumn grilled cheese (sharp cheddar, maple roasted butternut squash, tomato, spinach on sourdough or Wicked Alfredo (Andouille, chicken, roasted red peppers, penne pasta, red pepper alfredo sauce).

While in Northampton, stop at Thornes Marketplace, 150 Main Street, www.thornesmarketplace.com The building has been a cornerstone of the downtown for more than a century. The shops, bookstore, galleries and restaurants are individual in flavor. The energy, sights, and sounds will make you feel as if you are in an old-world marketplace. For an afternoon treat try Herrell’s Ice Cream http://herrells.com 413-586-9700 (their hot fudge is a MUST), located right at the marketplace.

If you are into perusing used bookstores, Northampton has their share. A short ride away is one of my favorites, Grey Matter Books. www.greymatterbookstore.com 47 East St., Hadley, 413-387-0160. It is quite expansive, so plan some time to explore.

For those interested in kitchen gadgets, cooking classes and unique food items The Baker’s Pin, 34 Bridge Street, Northampton https://thebakerspin.com/ 413-586-7978, is for you.

Gourmet food and beer aficionados need to make a stop at Provisions, 30 Crafts Avenue, Northampton https://provisionswine.com/ 413-727-3497 413-727-3497. You’ll find everything you need for making a charcuterie board or a gift basket for foodie friends and family. Beer aficionados will appreciate the selection of hundreds of craft beers, including hard-to-find imports. Wine selections, too, are plentiful (they boast that there are over 1,000 with 400 quality wines under $15) representing the globe. The shop’s cheese mongers will help you choose from an array of cheeses from around the world, pates and cured meats.

No trip to the area is complete without a stop at Richardson’s Candy Kitchen 500 Greenfield Rd., Deerfield. 800-81SWEET, www.richardsonscandy.com It is such a special place, that Food Network star Alex Guarnachelli filmed a segment for “The Best Thing I Ever Ate” here. Dixies, a signature candy at Richardson’s, is caramel, made from scratch and hand- stirred, then funneled onto trays of nuts. During my visit, I got to watch the chocolatiers make nonpareils, which are quite addicting! You will certainly feel like a “kid in a candy store” watching owner Kathie Williams and her staff make your favorites.

Kids, and the kid in you, will adore a visit to Maple Valley’s Scoop at the Silos, https://maplevalleycreamery.com/ 102 Mill Valley Rd., Hadley, 413-588-1716. Freshly made ice cream is served right at the farm from a cute little shack in front of the Brown Swiss cows. The farm animals are waiting for you to pet them, too. At the adjacent Mill Valley Market you’ll be able to purchase the freshest milk, fantastic cheeses, pints of ice cream, a plethora of locally made small-batch food items and snacks for the car.

Freshly made ice cream is served right at the farm from a cute little shack in front of the Brown Swiss cows.

On the way to or from this area, rich in history and natural beauty, stop and get to know the Cat in The Hat at The Amazing World of Dr. Seuss Museum https://bit.ly/2Gy04oR or learn about basketball at the Basketball Hall of Fame www.hoophall.com , both located in Springfield. A visit to the Yankee Candle Village, South Deerfield, www.yankeecandle.com and Kringle Candle Company www.kringlecandle.com , 220 South St. (Rte. 5) Bernardston are a candle lovers paradise.

If you are visiting the area during autumn to enjoy the New England foliage, take the 45-minute drive from Amherst to visit to Patterson Farm, 708 Northfield Rd., Hinsdale, NH (603) 336-6113. Kids will enjoy picking their pumpkin. The tree and house built from more than a dozen varieties of pumpkins are sites to see and photograph. Gourds of every shape and color, Indian corn and fall decorations are also sold.

The house made with varieties of pumpkins and gourds at Patterson Farm.

I hope I have given you some ideas to plan a trip to the Pioneer Valley. I would enjoy hearing about your visit, and the places you discover during your explorations here.

Other Lodging:

Inn on Boltwood. A landmark hotel in Amherst and member of Historic Hotels of America.

Adjacent to Amherst College is the Inn on Boltwood https://www.innonboltwood.com/ 413-256-8200 (formerly The Lord Jeffery Inn) This landmark hotel and member of Historic Hotels of America has been welcoming guests to Western Massachusetts since 1926. 30 Boltwood ,the Inn’s restaurant, serves up traditional New England fare on the patio or cozy yet sophisticated dining room. The beautiful brick-walled fireplace adds to the ambience while dining on casual fare such as the Boltwood Burger (Boyden Farm beef, smoked bacon, truffle aioli, onion, Vermont Cheddar) or a chef curated entree such as Seared Icelandic Cod with spicy Serrano pepper jam, grilled baby bok choy, cilantro and red onion couscous and a comfort side like mac and cheese prepared with Cheddar, Gruyere and buttery crumbs. The creative craft cocktail menu includes the “Fennel Fizz,” crafted with Milagro Reposado Tequila, fresh grapefruit, fennel simple syrup, lime and grapefruit bitters, salt and fennel pollen.

Hotel Northampton, 36 King Street, 800-547-3529, built in 1927, is a member of Historic Hotels of America. Located in the heart of the downtown, the preserved architectural beauty, historic richness, and charm of this grand hotel has all the modern amenities you would expect.

For more area information:

Amherst Area Chamber of commerce: www.amherstarea.com 413-253-0700

Visit Hampshire County https://bit.ly/3CRlck3 (413) 584-1900

Greater Springfield Convention and Visitors Bureau, www.valleyvisitor.com 800-723-1548

Stephen Fries | Food and culinary travel columnist

Stephen Fries, is a retired professor and coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College, in New Haven, CT. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 14 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, CT. He is a Board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. email me at [email protected] For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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