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Blueberries star in these recipes Here are four ways to enjoy the fruit you picked or bought at the market.
Blueberries can be used in a variety of recipes. (Wikimedia Commons)
Blueberries star in these recipes
In early June I debuted a new concept for sharing recipes that feature seasonal ingredients and how each one might be made the star of a recipe from the culinary perspectives of a chef, a baker, a barista and a mixologist/bartender.
This time, the humble blueberry is the star.
Before getting to the recipes, let’s talk blueberries, an ingredient that can be used in many directions, as you’ll see how culinarians created recipes incorporating this seasonal fruit.
Did you know:
• Blueberries are one of the few fruits native to North America.
• Under the right conditions, blueberry bushes can live and provide fruit for more than 50 years.
• July is National Blueberry Month
• Because wild blueberries are popular in Minnesota, in 1988 the blueberry muffin became the official state muffin.
• The juice from blueberries was used as ink by colonial Americans to dye fabric or to write.
• Once picked from the bush, the ripening of blueberries stop, therefore they should be picked only when ripe.
• Blueberries grow best in soil that is acidic.
Here are four ways to enjoy those blueberries you picked or bought at the market. You’ll see that blueberries can play a different role, not only in muffins, pies and pancakes. It is the time that blueberry festivals are taking place where chefs and home cooks showcase their creations. Think blueberry BBQ pulled pork sandwiches, blueberry chicken wings tossed in a tangy blueberry-chipotle glaze or blueberry and goat cheese flatbreads.
The baker’s recipe: Doughnut Bread Pudding With Blueberry Compote (Photo: (Hotel Forty Five)
Recipe by McArthur Johnson, sous chef, Hotel Forty Five, Macon, Ga.
McArthur’s culinary journey, spanning over a decade, began in his Huntsville, Ala., home, watching his mother, father and grandmother cook with love. This early inspiration fuels his passion for blending Southern flavors with global techniques to create elevated dishes. Beyond his culinary expertise, McArthur excels at building strong teams. He’s committed to creating memorable and heartwarming culinary experiences that bring smiles to people’s faces.
When asked for his inspiration in creating this recipe, he said, “A consistent people pleaser on our dessert menu, the Doughnut Bread Pudding With Blueberry Compote is a natural choice for a blueberry focused bakery feature. Its simple yet delicious profile, where the mild sweetness of the bread pudding allows our bright and flavorful blueberry compote to truly shine, makes it an easy win for anyone craving a comforting treat.”
Hotel Forty Five is a 94-room historic boutique property in downtown Macon. Loom Comfort Kitchen & Cocktails is the chef-driven restaurant. Hightales Rooftop Bar is the place to enjoy a cocktail while watching sunset. Reckon Coffee & Wine Bar is the spot to start and end your day with a coffee, tea, or wine, respectively.
Serves 4-6
Ingredients:
1 teaspoon of vanilla extract
1 ½ cups of sugar
½ quart of heavy cream
5 eggs
10 plain doughnuts cut into 1-inch cubes
Preheat oven to 350 degrees
Directions:
In a bowl, mix vanilla, sugar, until fully combined. In another bowl, whisk together the heavy cream and eggs. Combine the sugar and egg mixtures until well blended.
Place doughnut cubes in a large bowl and fold liquid mixture into the cubes and toss until cubes are fully soaked. Place mixture in a greased baking pan. Cover pudding in foil and bake for 1 hour. Remove the foil and bake for 15 minutes until golden brown.
Blueberry Compote
Ingredients:
1 pound fresh or frozen blueberries
¼ cup sugar
2 tablespoons water
Directions:
Add blueberries, sugar, and water to a saucepan. Cook blueberries on medium heat until it’s reduced and thickens. Let cool. Pour compote on each serving of bread pudding.
The chef’s Recipe: Blueberry Balsamic Chicken (Photo: Luminary Hotel and Co.)
Recipe by Josef Zimmermann, executive sous chef, Luminary Hotel & Co., Fort Myers, Fla.
Zimmermann embarked on his culinary career in 1979 at the world-renowned Brenner’s Park-Hotel in Baden-Baden, Germany, where he completed a comprehensive three-year apprenticeship. This formative experience provided a solid foundation in all major culinary disciplines, including Garde-Manger, Saucier, Entremetier and Patisserie. Following his apprenticeship, he expanded his expertise throughout Europe, holding key culinary positions in Germany, Switzerland and France.
In 1995, Zimmerman brought his talents to the United States, joining the prestigious Grand Pfister Hotel in Milwaukee, Wis. There, he led a culinary team of over 100 professionals. He later became executive chef at the Milwaukee Athletic Club, recognized as one of the 120 Platinum Clubs of the World and the largest private club in Wisconsin.
In 2011, he pursued his dream of restaurant ownership and relocated to Fort Myers, where he acquired and operated Sasse’s Restaurant, earning a loyal following and critical acclaim for over 10 years. In 2022, Zimmerman joined Luminary Hotel & Co. as executive sous chef, bringing decades of international experience and a passion for culinary excellence. In this role, he plays a vital part in leading and mentoring the culinary team.
Luminary Hotel & Co. is a hub of excitement and discovery — a focal point where locals and travelers tap into the collective energy of a city, and a story, begun by a brilliant cast of audacious local luminaries. The 243-room boutique hotel is home to the signature Silver King Ocean Brasserie and Lobby Bar; Beacon Social Drinkery rooftop lounge; Ella Mae’s Diner; Oxbow Bar & Grill; Dean Street Coffee Roastery & Retail; Chips Sports Pub & Topgolf Swing Suite; The Workshop culinary theater; an indoor and outdoor fitness facility; and a spacious pool area on the fourth floor featuring an event deck overlooking the Caloosahatchee River.
Serves 4
Ingredients:
4 boneless, skin-on chicken breasts
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup fresh blueberries
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Directions:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Season chicken with salt, pepper, and thyme. In an oven-safe skillet, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Sear chicken, skin side down, until golden (about 4–5 minutes), then flip and cook another 2 minutes. Remove chicken and set aside briefly.
In the same skillet, lower heat and sauté garlic until fragrant (about 30 seconds). Add blueberries, balsamic vinegar, honey, and a pinch of salt. Stir and simmer until blueberries start to burst and sauce thickens slightly (3–4 minutes). Return chicken to skillet, spoon some sauce over the top, and transfer skillet to oven.
Roast for 10–12 minutes or until internal temp reaches 165 degrees. Remove from oven, swirl in butter for a glossy finish.
Serve chicken with pan sauce spooned over top — great alongside wild rice or roasted vegetables.
The mixologist’s recipe: Hemispheres (Photo: Bruno's of Brooklyn)
Recipe by Jonathan Choy Roig, bartender, Bruno’s of Brooklyn, Fort Myers, Fla.
“I started in the hospitality industry in 2019 when I left my country,” Roig said. “I started as a dishwasher in the restaurant. My goals were always to learn and grow as a professional. My first bartender education was working at Cocktail Club in Montevideo, Uruguay. After that I took Barista and Latte Art courses that increased my knowledge and brought me to the next level.
“What inspires me to create a new cocktail, is offering an unforgettable experience to my guests and seeing them enjoy each sip. This recipe is a representation of mixed cultures. We use blueberries that come from the northern part of continent, Bacardi rum,and a special touch of Munyon’s Paw-Paw, a Florida liqueur, a quintessential American aperitif. and South American limes. Skillfully combined in one glass. it is a refreshing cocktail, celebrating blueberries.”
At Bruno’s of Brooklyn, Calcedonio and Genevieve Bruno have recreated old-world Italy dining with a modern twist.
“My culinary education happened every Sunday in my family’s kitchen,” Calcedonia said. “Three generations of Brunos passed down their expertise to me.”
The energy and ambiance make for a great dining experience.
Serves 1
Ingredients:
6 lime wedges
12 fresh blueberries
1½ ounces Bacardi Rum Silver
¾ ounce Munyon’s Florida Liqueur
Ice
½ slice of orange
1 rosemary spring
Directions:
In a shaker, put in the limes wedge and blueberries, Bacardi and Munyon’s and muddle gently. Fill up the shaker with ice and shake well for a few seconds. Pour the mix into an Old Fashioned glass. Garnish with half slice of orange and rosemary sprig on top.
The barista’s Recipe: Blueberry Lavender Latte (Photo: Fenway Hotel)
Recipe by Korinne Dodson, Room 27, Fenway Hotel, Dunedin, Fla.
Serves 1
Ingredients
1 shot espresso
1cup pea flour infused milk of choice (recipe below)
Blueberry simple syrup (recipe below)
Blueberry Simple Syrup
Ingredients:
16 ounces blueberries
1 ½ tablespoon culinary lavender
2 cups sugar
2 cups water
Vanilla bean paste to taste
Directions:
Combine the above in saucepan and heat to boil. Let simmer 5 minutes. Double strain. Add vanilla bean paste to desired taste. This will make plenty of syrup
Pea Flour Infused Milk*
Ingredients:
1 cup milk of choice
2 tablespoons pea flour
Steam milk with pea flower to create a blue tint.
*You can substitute half and half or heavy cream if desired
Directions:
Rim cup with powdered sugar. Put 1 shot of espresso in rimmed cup. Pour enough steamed milk to fill cup. Add 1 ounce of simple syrup to the latte. Mix.
Optional: For a Boozy Blueberry coffee, add 1-ounce Stoli Vanilla vodka and ½ ounce Licor 43
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Frozen treats are perfect for summer eating A new book by Nicholas Morgenstern features tasty recipes to try.
The July Fourth celebrations have passed and summer’s relaxing rhythm is in full force, beach and pool days, picnics and, as the saying goes, the lazy days of summer have arrived.
I find something inherently relaxing about a porch or deck, where you can chill out with friends, family, or on your own and watch the world go by while sipping a cool drink, nibbling on delicious snacks or enjoying a frozen treat such as ice cream or gelato.
Do you know the difference between the two? Simple: Gelato is made with more milk than cream, allowing the flavor to not be dominated by butterfat, and has less air than ice cream, making it denser. Ice cream is made with more cream, has more air and is served colder, making it firmer than gelato. If you have tried gelato, I think you will agree it has a pudding-like and smooth consistency.
National Ice Cream Month is celebrated in July, and National Ice Cream Day this year is July 20. To celebrate and to have some fun, especially for kids, host a tasting party featuring small scoops of a variety of flavors, and don’t forget lots of colorful and gooey toppings. Take it up a notch and experiment making ice cream floats. Adults, what about preparing a float with your favorite sparkling wine?
Regions throughout the country have their favorite scoop shops. Where I live in Connecticut, Ashley’s, Rich Farm and Arethusa are popular and beloved.
When travelling to the Lake George region of New York, Martha’s Dandee Crème is a must. I am told that Ava’s, Zwahlen’s, Frosty Falls, Weckerly’s, Franklin Fountain and Bassetts, supposedly the oldest ice cream shop in the U.S., are some of Greater Philadelphia’s favorites. They are on my list for my ice cream adventures.
Of course, there are those who enjoy making ice cream at home, whether it be a no-churn style or using an ice cream machine. Just off the press is “Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream” by Nicholas Morgenstern (2025, Alfred A. Knopf, $40). In an article in The Wall Street Journal, Morgenstern is called the Ice Cream Maestro.
“Each ice cream is made with the flavor profile in mind first,” he said. “‘Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream’ is my chance to express my love of quintessential American indulgence. I have been dreaming of these flavors, this style, and this place for years.”
Two shops, one in Manhattan in New York and one in Brooklyn, N.Y., serve up innovative flavors such as croissant caramel, cinnamon honey animal crackers, cardamom lemon jam and black licorice. The ice cream cakes are as beautiful as they are delicious. Can’t make it to the Big Apple? They deliver nationwide. With a copy of the book, you can make many of the shop’s flavors at home.
It was interesting to learn Morgenstern’s ice cream philosophy: “In making ice cream, the bottom line is this: eggs are cheaper than cream, sugar is cheaper than eggs, and air is cheaper than anything. Most ice cream companies are driven by profit margins, so they use eggs, cream, and air to control costs. At Morgenstern’s, the number one goal is to get the ice cream to taste like the flavor, which means no eggs, low sugar and less air. It’s not that I don’t like making money, I just like making great ice cream more.”
Get out the ice cream maker and enjoy some of Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream at home.
For recipes for Avocado Ice Cream and Peanut Butter Cup Ice Cream, visit stephenfries.com/recipes.
Coconut Espresso
The headnote says: “This was one of the first vegan flavors we made. For me, American ice cream does not exist without dairy; however, the demand for nondairy ice cream is strong in a place like New York City, where alternative diets have taken over. There are all kinds of challenges with making ice cream without dairy. It is impossible to replicate the smooth creamy texture of butterfat. Typically, this is attempted using nut or coconut milk with the addition of stabilizers and/or starch. In the best versions, this usually results in a smoother, but still icy and slightly gummy product not worth serving.
“When we started testing, we used nut milks and combined them with some coco-nut cream or coconut milk, but the milks available in the market are high in water with the lowest amount of nut possible. This yielded an icy product. So, we started to use just coconut cream or coconut milk to create flavors. Coconut products are great for creating a smooth texture, with fat content similar to that of dairy. The challenge, though, is the unmistakably strong flavor of coconut. If we were going to use coconut milk, it would be the predominant flavor, so we’d need to use bold ingredients that could stand up to it. Espresso was a natural fit, with lots of clear acidity to balance the natural coconut alkalinity. This flavor is delicious on its own, but outstanding as an affogato with a sprinkle of salt on top.”
Makes approximately 1 quart
Ingredients:
2 ¼ cups coconut cream
1 1/3 cups coconut milk
½ cup agave syrup
2 tablespoons glucose syrup
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup espresso
Directions:
Put the coconut cream, coconut milk, agave, glucose syrup, sugar and salt in a 4-quart saucepan and heat the mixture over medium heat until it reaches 180 degrees, stirring constantly.
Remove from the heat and immediately strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean container.
Fill a large bowl with ice and cold water to make an ice bath.
Put the container into the ice bath and let the base cool to 38 degrees, stirring occasionally.
Stir in the espresso and freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
A Grasshopper Sundae crowned with chocolate lace. (Lucia Bell-Epstein)
Grasshopper Sundae
The headnote says: “To me a grasshopper sundae is a hybrid mint chip/cookies ’n’ cream creation. I love it with fudge, Oreo cookie crumbs, brownie bits, chocolate chunks, and, of course, mint ice cream.”
Makes 1 sundae (Serves 2)
Ingredients:
Brownies, about one third of a pan, cut into 1-inch cubes
3 to 4 tablespoons hot fudge sauce
2 tablespoons Oreo cookie crumbs
1 cup Schoolyard Mint Chip ice cream (recipe below)
Whipped cream (in a piping bag with a star tip)
2 tablespoons dark chocolate chunks (58% cocoa)
Mint Leaf for garnish (optional)
2 to 3 large pieces chocolate lace (recipe follows) for garnish (optional)
Directions:
This sundae should be made on a special sundae dish. The style we use at the shop is vintage and was probably an old candy dish. If you don’t have one of those hanging around, it should be made on a plate or a bowl with a very wide flat bottom.
In a glass sundae dish, start by placing the brownie bites spaced out with room to fit a scoop of ice cream in between them.
Drizzle the hot fudge over the brownie bites and on the bottom of the glass dish.
Sprinkle the Oreo cookie crumbs over the fudge in between the brownies.
Place one large 5-ounce scoop of Schoolyard Mint Chip in the middle, followed by two smaller scoops directly on top.
Pipe a ribbon of whipped cream from the top of the brownie up to the middle of the top scoop of ice cream. Scoop the chocolate chunks over the top.
Using a spoon or ladle, pour a small amount of fudge from the top down the whipped cream.
Place a mint leaf at the top, if using, and add the chocolate lace if you made it.
Chocolate Lace
The headnote says: “This is made with tempered chocolate, which can be a challenge. For the Grasshopper Sundae, it adds the flourish and wow factor, but is not required if this step seems like too much work. Any dark chocolate will work, but I prefer 64% cocoa.Although there are lots of methods for tempering chocolate, which are involved and complex, for this application, I think the seeding method works best.”
Makes approximately 6 to 8 large pieces
Ingredients:
1 cup chopped dark chocolate, plus more as needed
Directions:
Simmer 2 cups of water in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat.
Making sure that the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water, melt ¾ cup of chopped dark chocolate in a medium bowl over the simmering water, stirring constantly, with a rubber spatula or spoon.
Once the chocolate reaches 115 degrees, turn off the heat and remove the bowl from the saucepan of simmering water.
Stir in the remaining ¼ cup of chopped dark chocolate. Stir constantly until the chocolate reaches 88 degrees. Add more chocolate if the chocolate is too warm. Any unmelted chocolate pieces should be removed before piping.
Fill a piping bag with the tempered chocolate, cut a small hole in the tip and pipe the chocolate in tight circles on a piece of parchment paper.
Allow the chocolate to solidify, then break off large pieces.
Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 7 days.
Schoolyard Mint Chip is made with only fresh mint and two different mints, peppermint and Vietnamese mint. (Lucia Bell-Epstein)
Schoolyard Mint Chip
The headnote says: “One of the most popular — and perfect — ice cream flavors of all time; both Baskin-Robbins and Howard Johnson’s had mint chip on the menu from the be-ginning and it has gained popularity to find its way to the top 10 most-consumed flavors so far this century. Unfortunately, most of them are made with artificial flavor, and if the color matches your grandmother’s bathroom, that’s artificial, too. There are two factors that separate our mint chip from the rest. Number one, the mint is always fresh and green. Number two, we use two different mints, peppermint and Vietnamese mint.”
Makes approximately 1 quart
Ingredients:
½ cup peppermint leaves, fresh, stems removed
½ cup Vietnamese mint leaves, fresh, stems removed
¾ cup granulated sugar
1 2/3 cups whole milk
1 ½ cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon glucose syrup
¼ cup whole milk powder
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup dark chocolate chunks (58% cocoa)
Directions:
Rinse the peppermint and Vietnamese mint leaves in cold water. Dry thoroughly with paper towels, try not to bruise the leaves. Grind the mint and the sugar in a food processor until the leaves are completely incorporated and the sugar is bright green.
Heat the milk, cream, and glucose syrup in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat, stirring with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon to keep it from burning, until small bubbles appear around the edges and the temperature reaches 180 degrees.
In a large bowl, whisk together the mint sugar, milk powder, and salt.
Slowly pour the hot cream mixture into the bowl, stirring constantly.
Pour the mixture back into the pot and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it returns to 180 degrees.
Remove from the heat and immediately strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean container.
Fill a large bowl with ice and cold water to make an ice bath. Put the container into the ice bath and let the base cool to 38 degrees, stirring occasionally.
Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Add the chocolate chunks just before scooping.
Recipes from “Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream” by Nicholas Morgenstern. Excerpted by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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St. Augustine is a charming destination The dynamic Florida city is filled with architecturally rich destinations that make for fantastic explorations on foot.
Editor’s note: Chris Bartlett contributed to this article.
Our return to St. Augustine, Fla., was something we’d both relished for years, as it was our first visit twenty-something years prior that had lit our fire, inspiring us to delve more into local culinary scenes and hyper-local foodie destinations, to share the stories of the people, places and food experiences we love.
And it was in this historic destination that our futures in culinary-travel writing, developing food tours and hosting cookbook author luncheon events began to take shape.

(Photo: courtest Embassy Suites St. Augustine Beach Oceanfront Resort)
This visit, we stayed at The Embassy Suites St. Augustine Beach Oceanfront Resort, bit.ly/3ZxHMuw, which nestles along the most stunning stretch of beach, ideally positioned between the historic St. John’s Fishing Pier and the beachside habitat of Anastasia State Park. The deep, flat stretch of hard-packed sand is ideal for beach walking, sporting or settling in for a great day beside the alluring waves of the Atlantic Ocean. This spot is a wow!
Between the beautifully presented, endless-choices, inclusive breakfast buffet and daily, happy hour gathering at Rhum Bar for sips and apps, we found ourselves slipping into a tropical-beachy vibe that feels unlike everything we thought we knew both about Embassy Suites, the brand, and from experience, staying at their traditional properties. We found ourselves saying that we couldn’t believe this refined, luxury resort is part of the renowned international brand.
An oasis awaits at The Embassy Suites St. Augustine Beach Oceanfront Resort (Chris Bartlett)
Cool off in the huge zero-entry oceanfront pool, relax under covered terraces and sit by the fire pits in the evening.
Black Bean and Quinoa Sald at Castaway Cantina is fresh, healthy and beautifully presented. (Stephen Fries)
Enjoy a relaxing lunch or sip on a cocktail watching sunset in the evening at the poolside Castaway Cantina that offers Latin-inspired dishes. Try the Black Bean Quinoa Salad with shrimp, chicken, steak or the local catch. It’s fresh, healthy and beautifully presented.
The upscale Rhum Bar, given its name, clearly specializes and features rum-based drinks. Accompany a cocktail with a hummus sampler, wings, slider of the week or frito misto (calamari, bay scallops, rock shrimp, fish, pepperoncini, Yuzu aioli), among a few other specialties.
For a morning or afternoon pick-me-up there’s a Starbucks Café on site. Provisions of Ponce, the 24/7 market, carries everything you’ll need for your outings or a mid-day snack. The café carries locally made Whetstone chocolates. Once you taste a bite, you’ll want to schedule a factory tour to see how the decadent treats are made. It’s a few blocks from the hotel.
Eating at the resort on our arrival night was welcome and special after the drive. Harvest & Reel is such a treat. The open kitchen enabled us to see the chefs performing their culinary craft. The décor made for a relaxing dining experience with the seaside-inspired touches. The resort’s signature restaurant focusses on farm-to-table and shore-table cuisine.
To begin was a classic, Maryland Crabcakes, chock full of lump crab and cooked to achieve the perfect golden-brown crust. It is served with a Creole remoulade that adds the perfect kick. She-Crab bisque reminded us of cuisine we’ve enjoyed on another culinary adventure, so we needed to try their version. It is velvety and luxurious in flavor … the dry Sherry is probably the secret to the recipe.
The burrata, heirloom, tomato salad is so generous that one could make it a meal. The large portion of creamy burrata is center plate surrounded by vine-ripe heirloom tomatoes, basil pesto and baby arugula with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar glaze.

(Photo: Chris Bartlett)
The zero proof Hums the Word is a creative marriage of flavors: seedlip prickly pear, blood orange, lemon, agave. We both are key lime pie fans; therefore, the key lime trifle was a must. The presentation is a work of art and is twist on a Florida classic. Light and airy layers of mascarpone and crushed graham crackers topped with lime curd makes for a creamy indulgence to end a perfect dining experience.
Harvest & Reel transforms in the morning to become the place for the inclusive breakfast buffet. Now, we’re not talking about the typical complimentary hotel breakfast you might have experienced elsewhere. Here, it is a complete buffet with just about every breakfast item imaginable. Choose the ingredients you like at the make-to-order omelet station and enjoy indoor or outdoor seating.
In the evening you’ll be treated to a complimentary reception with hors d’oeuvres and cocktails at Rhum Bar.

(Photo: Stephen Fries)
Dining at a unique off-property restaurant is always on the agenda, and Odd Birds Cocktail Lounge & Kitchen, https://oddbirdsbar.com, fit unique perfectly.
The restaurant’s website says, “Where the rule is oddness in a relaxed and chill environment.”
From the bar to the beyond-eclectic decor found everywhere, to the flavorful and delicious food and craft beverages, we savored everything about Odd Birds. I can see us coming here anytime, from a quick meet-up with friends for a drink to a quiet dinner to an exclusive event at Charlotte 33, the sublime speakeasy, located just a slip through a curtain in the wall.
Uniqueness carries through to the cocktail program. Each cocktail is custom made based upon your flavor preferences, making it a one-of-a-kind drink experience. Their signature cocktails are intriguing, too.
The description of Cachapa piqued our curiosity, and we were pleased with the way the ingredients melded so well … feta and mozzarella cheeses stuffed in a sweet corn pancake topped with nata drizzle. The empanadas are fried to a golden brown, and filled with a choice of beef, chicken, or black beans. The Chimi skirt steak is beautifully grilled, and is crowned with house made chimichurri, all over a bed of Spanish rice plus accompanied with grilled zucchihi.
You won’t want to say no to dessert. The Bavarian cream filled churros with chocolate and caramel dipping sauces take these scrumptious churros to another level, divine.
Sublime and refined is the exquisite experience at Lotus Lotus Ramen, driven by the passion and masterful techniques of Executive Chef Barry Honan. Every aspect of our dinner at Lotus was a feast for the senses, from the aromas to taste sensations, and from visual masterpieces to the Zen ambiance. Lotus is one the most memorable nights out.
The restaurant is the creative obsession of Chef Barry Honan.
We were told: “He has a style that is described as modern Japanese integrated with French techniques. It’s a journey through the creative mind of a storyteller-chef, with each plate being a delightful surprise of flavors, textures, and visual composition rooted in a sense of constant evolution.”
He perfected his craft working as a sous-chef at the celebrated LeBernardin in Manhattan, N.Y. The open kitchen enabled us to see Honan’s appreciation for simplicity, attention to detail and beauty.

(Photo: Stephen Fries)
Each dish showcases the seasonal bounty from local farms and authentic product from Japan. The appetizer Bloom is steamed buns, furikake, honey truffle butter with optional sunny-side egg topped with chili crunch and cilantro. The chef takes the familiar pillowy buns to a gourmet level with his culinary flair.

(Photo: Chris Bartlett)
The Japanese inspired cocktail menu is innovative and crafted to complement the flavors on the menu. The sake-based libations are beautifully presented and refreshing. The Lotus Blossom (Tozai sake, Mancino Vermouth, Florida strawberry-coconut water cordial, champagne) and Holiday on Ice (Heiwa orange sake, frothed coconut milk, fresh organic basil simple syrup) are the light, fragrant and imaginative cocktails we sipped on at Lotus.
“Wagashi,” aka sweets, has two to choose from. Apple pie? You might question what is presented on the plate, hence the question mark. It’s Honan’s interpretation … a deconstructed apple pie (koji apple compote, brown sugar granola, nori caramel, local honey cream mousse, sweet furikake).
Holy Grail, the other eclectic creation, is Japanese Meiji chocolate ice cream, Okinawa black sugar syrup, Maldon sea salt flakes, and seasonal, fresh truffle. You sure won’t be making these at home, so make sure you experience Wagashi here.

(Photo: Chris Bartlett)
Walk through the campus of Flagler College and take in the exquisite architecture, a striking example of the Gilded Age.
This resort experience rekindled our passion for St. Augustine. There is so much more to share and to experience, so this historic city might just be the “Hidden Gems” of Florida 2026 feature.
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Asparagus gets unique treatment Culinary professionals who are experts in different areas prepare the vegetable four different ways.
Asparagus gets unique treatment
For several years now I’ve been wanting to delve into a new concept for sharing recipes that feature both seasonal ingredients and how each respective one might be made the star of a recipe from the culinary perspectives of a chef, a baker, a barista and a mixologist/bartender.
I think it’s the unique treatment and approach each culinary professional brings to the same ingredient that both excites me and stirs my curiosity as to what the final recipes will turn out to be.
Well, after many conversations and prospective starting points, I’ve recently found a dynamic team of culinary professionals who are equally enthused and committed to my concept, which has resulted in the arrival of this debut article featuring asparagus prepared four ways from four culinary professionals, each with their years of experience and understanding of how to make this mid-spring vegetable the star of their respective dishes.
Before getting to the recipes, let’s talk asparagus. June is when the vegetable begins to move from its center stage at farmers markets. The crop is prime from late April through early June.
Cultivated for more than 2,000 years, the name is derived from the Greek word “aspharagos” that translates to to spring up or to sprout, apropos for the time of year it emerges and how it pokes out through the soil. Cooking methods are numerous; blanched, grilled, raw, roasted or steamed.
Preparation can be as simple as tossing the spears in olive oil and sprinkling with sea salt, or better yet, smoked sea salt, then roasting or grilling them. If you care to be more creative, shave raw asparagus into salads, wrap them in prosciutto or add a couple of steamed thin spears on eggs benedict. You’ll see below how innovative the recipes created by the culinarians featured later are.
While green is the most familiar color of the vegetable, try the purple or white varieties. You will find the white ones are thicker and milder, and less bitter than green ones. The purple variety flavor profile has a fruitier and sweeter taste, and when cooked, you might be surprised that they turn green. The reason lies in its food chemistry.
When buying the green variety, I prefer thinner spears. They are sweeter and more tender, and cook quicker than thicker ones. However, when grilling, I choose thicker spears; they hold up better and don’t dry out.
Asparagus does not need to be just a side dish. It can be the focus of a dish … think cream of asparagus soup, asparagus patties, quiche, risotto or frittata. Some recipes will add to the calories and thus take away from the health benefits of the vegetable, as asparagus offers a good source of vitamins A, C and K as well as fiber.
You might be hungry after reading the paragraph above, so now its time to get to the recipes shared by the culinarians.

The Chef’s Recipe: Lemon Butter Asparagus Salad With Burrata
Recipe by Sous Chef McArthur Johnson, Hotel Forty Five Macon, Ga.
Hotel Forty Five is a 94-room historic boutique property in downtown Macon. Loom Comfort Kitchen & Cocktails is the signature chef-driven restaurant, Hightales Rooftop Bar is the place to enjoy a cocktail while watching sunset, and Reckon Coffee & Wine Bar is where to start and end your day.
McArthur said his culinary journey, spanning over a decade, began in his Huntsville, Ala., home, watching his mother, father and grandmother cook with love. This early inspiration fuels his passion for blending Southern flavors with global techniques to create elevated dishes. Beyond his culinary expertise, McArthur excels at building strong teams. He is committed to creating memorable and heartwarming culinary experiences that bring smiles to people’s faces.
When asked for his inspiration in creating this recipe, he said: “A delicious burrata and asparagus Caprese I enjoyed in South Carolina sparked the idea for this Lemon Butter Roasted Asparagus and Burrata Salad. Recognizing the natural pairing between the two, I wanted to introduce a warmer element through roasted asparagus with lemon and butter, creating a new and equally satisfying experience.”
Serves 2
Ingredients:
½ pound asparagus
1 tablespoon of lemon juice
½ ounce butter
3 ounces arugula
2 tablespoons of olive oil
5 cherry tomatoes each cut in half
Salt and pepper to taste
1 ball of burrata cheese
Directions:
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Add asparagus, lemon juice and butter to a mixing bowl then mix well. Line asparagus in a single layer onto a sheet pan.
Bake asparagus for about 10 minutes or until tender. Set asparagus to the side to cool once done.
In another mixing bowl add arugula, olive oil, cherry tomatoes, salt and pepper. Mix well.
In a salad bowl place dressed arugula with tomatoes at the bottom. Arrange your roasted asparagus on top of the arugula. Top the salad with a ball of burrata and olive oil.

The Mixologist’s Recipe: Aspar-a-Sip Martini
Recipe provided by Robyn Shipp, food and beverage director, Fenway Hotel, Dunedin, Fla.
The Fenway Hotel (www.fenwayhotel.com), which opened in 1927, is an icon of the jazz age, playing host to musicians and legends. It was the home to the first radio station in Pinellas County, Fla., where broadcasting occurred on the roof. Today, the Fenway Hi-Fi Rooftop Bar is the place to be and be seen, especially at sunset. The jazz theme carries on throughout the hotel.
Makes 1 drink
Ingredients:
2 ounces asparagus infused Bombay Sapphire*
2 ounces asparagus, green bell pepper, dill syrup**
½ ounce fresh lime juice
Pinch smoked sea salt
Pinch cracked black pepper
Fresh dill
Directions:
Shake gin, syrup, and lime over ice and pour into coupe glass. Sprinkle salt and pepper and top with fresh dill.
*Asparagus infused gin: soak one asparagus spear in 1 ounce of gin for 72 hours
** Blend ½ cup asparagus, ¼ cup of green bell pepper, 1/8 cup fresh dill, ½ cup of water, ¼ cup white sugar in blender for 5 minutes. Strain with double mesh strainer or through cheese cloth/coffee filter.

The Baker’s Recipe: Asparagus Ricotta Tart
Recipe provided by Priscilla Martel
Martel said: “I am Priscilla Martel, a flavor maven who inspires others to become bold and curious in the kitchen. I collaborate with California Almonds, Tuscan Women Cook and other businesses to tell engaging stories through food and recipes. I love my role as culinary mentor to students who use ‘On Cooking’ and ‘On Baking,’ the textbooks that I write for Pearson. Visit my website for recipes, baking tips and more: PriscillaMartel.com.”
Yield: 8 servings
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large leek, cleaned, trimmed, split in half, cut into ½ -inch slices
1 bunch asparagus, stems trimmed and peeled
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup dry ricotta cheese
1 egg
Grated zest of one lemon
2 slices bacon, cut into ¼ -inch pieces
1 sheet puff pastry, thawed
Olive oil, as needed
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with bakers’ parchment.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet. Add the chopped leek and cook over medium high heat for a minute. Add the asparagus and ¼ cup of water. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the asparagus is bright green and slightly tender, for 5 minutes. Set aside.
Combine the ricotta, egg and lemon zest in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper as needed.
Place the puff pastry on a worktable. Use a rolling pin to flatten it slightly into an even rectangle.
Place it on the baking sheet. Spread the ricotta filling evening over the puff pastry. Scatter the cooked leeks over the filling. Place the asparagus, head to toe, on top. Scatter the bacon evenly over the asparagus. Drizzle with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.
Bake for 40-45 minutes until the pastry has risen and browns on the edges and the bacon cooks.
Serve immediately cut into rectangles. This tart is best eaten the day it is made, although it can be reheated and served the next day.

The Barista’s Recipe: Asparagus Smoothie
Recipe provided by Harrison Rhee, founder of Green Bliss, www.greenblissct.com, is a juice bar located in New Haven, Conn. Run by a husband-and-wife team, Harrison and Rachel, who have an obsession with fruits and veggies and providing the community with fun ways to incorporate them into their diets.
Makes 1 smoothie
Frozen banana (1 banana or ½ cup)
Frozen mango (1 cup)
Fresh spinach (1/4 cup)
Fresh asparagus (1/4 cup)
Apple juice (3/4 cup or 6 ounces)
Coconut water (1/4 cup or 2 ounces)
Directions:
Place all ingredients in a blender. Run the blender until all ingredients are blended. Makes 1 16-ounce smoothie.
Benefits of the smoothie: Full of fiber for digestive support and packed with vitamins A, B, C, K and potassium. Perfect to start your morning off and you can add vegan protein for a great breakfast smoothie.
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Memorial Day weekend means it’s time to get grilling A gourmet meal prepared in your backyard or on the deck is still an affordable luxury.
The unofficial start of summer is here. Memorial Day weekend first and foremost is the time to honor those who lost their lives while serving in the military. I remember when it was called Decoration Day… the time when graves of soldiers were decorated with bouquets of flowers.
Once the parades and town ceremonies are finished, it’s time to stop hibernating, as we do during winter, that’s at least what many do in this part of the country. The lounge chairs and deck furniture are dusted off, pools are filled, beach toys and blankets are dug out, and grills are getting ready to be fired up so we can savor the smoky flavor of food cooked outdoors.
A gourmet meal prepared in your backyard or on the deck is still an affordable luxury. Knowing that taking advantage of good weather is what we look forward to, restaurants are preparing to serve diners alfresco, as well.
Memorial Day weekend marks the beginning of grilling season, especially here in the northern U.S. It is energizing to start thinking about summer, many people’s favorite season, and the joys and bounty of what this time of the year will bring: garden-fresh produce right from farmers markets, beautiful salads, smoky BBQ, plus casual meals eaten under a clear, blue sky or under shimmering stars at night.
During a visit to the bookstore a while ago, a display of barbecue books caught my attention and prompted me to start thinking about this year’s barbecue and grilling column. The title, “Barbecue: Smoked & Grilled From Across the Globe,” by Hugh Mangum with Shana Liebman (2025, Phaidon, $49.95) caught my eye.
Why? Many think barbecue is All-American. Seeing the word globe in the title made me think about the countries where I savored this style of cooking. Brazil and the Philippines came to mind. My research revealed that BBQ has roots that go back centuries and are more global than we might have thought.
According to kensbbq.com, “Archaeological findings suggest that indigenous tribes of Caribbean and South America used a form of BBQ called ‘barbacoa’ to cook meat over open flames, later spreading to North American indigenous people.”
We have our traditional ways to BBQ, however it is important to know that the style of cooking exhibits a mixture of many cultures.
The book celebrates the diversity of BBQ. Mangum, a pit master and co-founder of Mighty Quinn’s, considers himself to be barbecue obsessive. The more than 250 recipes the authors curated represent over 80 countries giving us a glimpse into a favorite culinary cooking technique.
The chapters feature five food categories; skewers and sausages; mains; sides; sauces and rubs; and of course, desserts. The sixth chapter, “Guest Chefs,” showcases recipes from 16 renowned BBQ experts.
The Tools and Smallware, Pantry List, Fire Primer (the authors said, “Building and tending a fire is one of the most important skills for barbecue. It takes time, patience, and many mistakes.”) and Barbecue FAQS are all helpful in getting started.
Now, it’s time to barbecue. Let’s start with these recipes from the book.
For the recipe for Indian vegetable skewers, visit stephenfries.com/recipes.
Angolan Grilled Fish (Angola)
The headnote says: ”Mufete de peixe is a popular Angolan dish often served at family gatherings and celebrations. A whole fish, like tilapia, is seasoned with acid, onions, and spices and then grilled. It’s served on a large platter with palm oil beans (feijao de oleo de palma), boiled plantains, sweet potatoes, and cassava.”
Preparation time: 15 minutes, plus 30 minutes marinating
Cooking time: 50 minutes
Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS:
For the vegetables:
3 sweet potatoes, chopped
1 cassava, chopped
Salt
For the beans:
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 (14-ounce) cans lima (butter) beans
For the onion salad:
1 green bell pepper, seeded, deveined, and finely chopped
½ onion, finely chopped
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
For the fish:
5 cloves garlic
1 malagueta chile, seeded and minced
1 teaspoon salt
2 pounds tilapia fillets
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1 tablespoon olive oil, for brushing
DIRECTIONS:
For the vegetables: Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the sweet potatoes and cassava and simmer for 10–15 minutes, until softened. Drain, then set aside.
For the beans: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute for 5 minutes. Add the beans and pan-fry for 10 minutes. Pour in ½ cup of water and cook for another 10 minutes, or until softened. Season to taste with salt.
For the onion salad: Combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl and toss well.
For the fish: In a food processor, or with a mortar and pestle, combine the garlic, chile, and salt and blend until it forms a paste. Rub the paste over the fish, sprinkle the vinegar on top, and set aside to marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Preheat a grill to high heat.
Brush the fish with the oil. Add the fish to the grill and cook for 5–7 minutes on each side until cooked through. (If desired, use a fish grill basket to prevent the fish from sticking to the grill.) Transfer the fish to a large serving dish.
Arrange the onion salad, beans, and vegetables around the fish. Serve.
Excerpted from “Barbecue” copyright 2025 by Hugh Mangum. Photography copyright 2025 by Nico Schinco. Reproduced by permission of Phaidon. All rights reserved.
Seafood Paella (Spain)
The headnote says: “ ‘Paella,’ the Catalan word for skillet, is a traditional Valencian rice dish made in a shallow pan over a fire fueled by orange and pine branches. The short-grain rice, which turns yellow from the saffron, develops a crispy layer (called socarrat) at the bottom of the pan. Paella was originally made with rabbit, green beans, and tomatoes but evolved in regions closer to the coast to include seafood and other fresh vegetables.”
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 40-45 minutes
Serves: 6
INGREDIENTS:
2 tomatoes, cored and halved
16 large shrimp (prawns), peeled and deveined
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch/2.5-cm pieces
8 ounces Spanish chorizo, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon saffron threads
2 cups (15 ounces) bomba or Valencia rice
4 cups (32 ounces) chicken stock
18 mussels, cleaned
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Salt and black pepper, to taste
2 lemons, cut into 8 wedges each, to serve
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat the grill to high heat (450 degrees).
Using a box grater, grate the flesh side of the tomatoes over a medium bowl.
In a separate bowl, combine the shrimp (prawns) and ¼ teaspoon of the smoked paprika. Season with salt and pepper. Toss.
Place the chicken in another bowl and season with salt and pepper.
Place a large paella pan or a large cast-iron skillet on the grill. Close the grill lid and heat for 2 minutes. Add the chorizo and sauté for 3 minutes, or until the fat has rendered. Transfer the chorizo to a large bowl.
Add the chicken. Close the grill lid and cook, opening the lid and stirring occasionally, for 6 minutes. Add the chicken to the bowl with the chorizo.
Add the olive oil and onion to the pan, then season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, the remaining ¾ teaspoon paprika, and the saffron and sauté for 30 seconds.
Stir in the tomato pulp and juice and cook for 3 minutes, or until the mixture has darkened. Add the rice and 2 teaspoons of salt and stir.
Pour in the stock, stirring so that the rice mixture is in an even layer.
Add the chorizo and chicken to the pan and spread them out over the rice. Close the grill lid and simmer for 10 minutes, checking occasionally, until the rice has absorbed most of the liquid. Rotate the pan every few minutes to distribute the heat.
Add shrimp and mussels. Close the grill lid and cook for another 10–12 minutes, until the mussels have opened, and the shrimp are just cooked through. Discard any unopened mussels.
Remove the pan from the grill, cover with aluminum foil, and set aside for 5 minutes.
Sprinkle parsley over the paella and serve warm with lemon wedges.

Grilled Pineapple (Thailand)
The headnote says: “Grilled pineapple, flavored with coconut and palm sugar, is a simple and refreshing dessert served in roadside shops and restaurants all over Thailand. To ensure maximum sweetness, use a ripe pineapple; a pineapple is ripe if you can easily remove one of the leaves.”
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 10 – 20 minutes
Serves: 8
INGREDIENTS:
1 pineapple
1 (14 ounces) can coconut milk
½ cup (3¾ ounces) loosely packed brown sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon canola oil
DIRECTIONS:
Preheat a grill to medium heat.
Cut off the top, bottom, and skin of the pineapple, then slice it lengthwise into quarters. Cut out the core of each quarter, then slice each section in half to create 8 pieces.
Warm the coconut milk in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and salt and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Set aside.
In a large bowl, combine the pineapple and half of the coconut mixture. Pour the other half into a dipping bowl and refrigerate until ready to eat.
Thread the pineapple onto skewers, then brush them with the oil. Place them on the grill and cook for 5–10 minutes on each side, until the pineapple turns bright yellow and has grill marks. Transfer to a serving dish.
Serve with the chilled dipping sauce.
Recipes and photos excerpted from “Barbecue” copyright 2025 by Hugh Mangum. Photography copyright 2025 by Nico Schinco. Reproduced by permission of Phaidon. All rights reserved.
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Food keeps generations connected Cookbook is the story of how a mother's love is handed down, complete with her recipes.
The expression you can’t tell a book by its cover often holds true, but not in this case.
The cover of “Umma: A Korean Mom’s Kitchen Wisdom & 100 Family Recipes” by Sarah Ahn and Nam Soon Ahn (2025, America’s Test Kitchen $35) is perfect, reflecting what the book is about … the story of how a mother’s love is handed down, complete with her recipes and how food keeps generations connected.
It reminded me of how my grandmother’s cooking still lingers long after she passed. And though she is gone, her spirits live on, remembering the aromas and fun we had cooking together.
Perhaps you have fond memories of cooking with a loved one, laughing, tasting (remember licking the spoon!) and even messing up a recipe. You might have picked up a technique on how to roll out dough with precision or coerced them to reveal what their secret ingredient was. It’s not only the food, but the bonding that happens working side-by-side…chopping, mixing, and peeling in the kitchen.
Umma (mom or mother in Korean) is not only a cookbook, it is about the flavors, traditions and heartfelt stories of multigenerational Korean cooking. Sarah Ahn is America’s Test Kitchen’s social media manager. Her website, ahnestkitchen.com, shares videos of her mom’s cooking. Her social media followers are a million plus.
Online is where she shares how she reconnects with her heritage, experiencing her mother’s love through cooking. Her followers connect with the recipes that reflect Korean cuisine.
The second act of her sharing is in the cookbook, where she and mom teach how to cook like a Korean umma.
“Capturing the food traditions passed down through generations in my family began as a personal project, but has since blossomed into something greater,” Sarah said. “In Korean culture, umma is more than just a parent — she is love, wisdom and the soul of every home-cooked meal, prepared by hands that carry the stories of our past.”
The recipes offer many stories that are quite moving. Nam’s stories reflect her mother’s cooking when living in Korea.
”This book is my love letter to my mom and the home-cooked meals that brought our family together,” Sarah said. “It’s my way of ensuring her legacy lives on, inspiring anyone who picks it up to cook with love and feel at home with umma.”
I had the opportunity to ask the authors some questions.
Q: Your book emphasizes preserving traditions through food. What modern adaptations, if any, do you incorporate into these traditional recipes?
A: We incorporate modern techniques and ingredients into traditional recipes. For example, Umma sometimes uses instant seafood broth tablets for soups like Soft Tofu Egg Drop Soup instead of making anchovy broth from scratch, which can add extra steps and require more ingredients. We also have fun, trend-inspired recipes like Sikppang Hotteok (Sweet Pancake Sandwiches), where Umma uses sandwich bread instead of making a yeasted dough from scratch.
Q: The book offers tips on building a Korean pantry. What advice would you give to someone intimidated by sourcing or using unfamiliar ingredients?
A: Funnily enough, I sometimes feel intimidated walking into a standard American grocery store and searching for ingredients that are completely outside of Korean cuisine. But just like how my friends reassure me that there’s nothing to be nervous about, the same applies when sourcing Korean ingredients. It’s all about familiarity.
That’s why Umma includes a comprehensive guide to help readers build a Korean pantry with confidence. The book not only explains key ingredients but also provides details on where to buy them, how to use them and even includes pictures to make identification easier.
Whether you’re looking for the right kind of fish sauce, figuring out the difference between gochugaru and gochujang or wondering how to store kimchi, the book is designed to take the guesswork out of it. Once you start cooking with these ingredients, they’ll begin to feel just as familiar as anything else in your kitchen.
Q: What was the most memorable moment you shared with your mom during the creation of this cookbook?
A: I think the most memorable part was learning about my mom before she was a mom back when she still had her own mother around. It felt special to hear her say Umma and speak so highly of her own mother, almost as if I were catching a glimpse of their relationship in real time. Through these stories, I came to understand just how incredible these women were behind the recipes, and how the everyday dishes I once took for granted were, in fact, deeply meaningful.
Like how kimchi was made communally with neighborhood women to help their families get through the harsh winter months, or how white rice was once a luxury — and the lengths mothers went to afford it for their families.
Now, it’s time to get cooking.
For the recipe for Japgokbap, a hearty rice dish featuring a variety of textures and tastes, visit stephenfries.com/recipes.
Japgokbap is a hearty rice dish featuring a variety of textures and tastes. (Courtesy of Kritsada Panichgul/America’s Test Kitchen)
Braised Baby Potatoes
Algamja Jorim (ahl-gahm-jah joh-rim)
Serves 4 (makes 3 cups)
The headnote by says: “I always get excited when I see a bag of baby potatoes from our grocery haul waiting to be stored away, because it means that Umma is going to prepare Algamja Jorim very soon. These petite potatoes are boiled and then stir-fried and tossed with Umma’s salty-sweet sauce and finished with sesame seeds, green onion, and gochugaru. The potatoes become extremely creamy and offer irresistible poppable bites. We like yellow potatoes best here, but you can buy baby potatoes of any color that are ¾ to 1 inch in diameter. If you can only find larger baby potatoes, you can cut them into 1-inch pieces.”
Kitchen conversation
Sarah: When did you first try Algamja Jorim?
Umma: When I came to the United States.
Sarah: Huh? You never had this in Korea?
Umma: No, Halmeoni never prepared any banchan with this type of potato. I don’t remember seeing them around our house. I wanted to try them when I first saw these little potatoes at the Korean grocery store here.
Sarah: I’m glad you finally tried it. It’s really good, and it has always reminded me of baby dinosaur eggs since I was a kid, ha-ha.
Umma: You’re right, I can see a baby seeing it like that, ha-ha.
Sarah: The potatoes are so creamy and the sauce you add to them is just perfect. I love how you can also taste and feel the sesame seeds popping as you bite into the little whole potato.
Umma: Yeah, I like it a lot. It’s very different from the potatoes I grew up with.
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon corn syrup
12 ounces baby yellow potatoes, unpeeled
1 teaspoon fine salt
1 tablespoon neutral cooking oil
1 tablespoon sugar
1½ teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted
1 green onion, sliced thin
½ teaspoon gochugaru
Directions:
Whisk ⅔ cup water, the soy sauce, and corn syrup together in a small bowl. Set the sauce aside.
Add the potatoes and salt to a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or 12-inch nonstick skillet and cover with water by 1 inch. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. Wipe the wok dry with paper towels.
Heat the oil in the wok over medium heat until shimmering. Add the potatoes and cook, tossing occasionally, until nearly tender, about 8 minutes. Add the sauce, toss to coat the potatoes, and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook for 1 minute. Uncover and continue to cook, tossing occasionally, until the potatoes are fully tender and well-seasoned, about 6 minutes.
Increase the heat to medium-high and add the sugar. Cook, tossing constantly, until the sauce becomes thick and stringy, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the sesame seeds, green onion, and gochugaru. Serve. (Refrigerate for up to 4 days.)
Honey-Garlic Chicken
Serves 4 to 6
The headnote by Sarah says: “In August 2014, two major snack food brands, Haitai from South Korea and Calbee from Japan, joined forces to create a new snack that quickly went viral and became a top-selling snack, dominating the Korean market that year. What these two companies created is a snack known as Honey Butter Chips. These chips became so popular that they sparked a trend known as the honey-butter craze, making the chips nearly impossible to purchase, with resale prices online reaching triple the original price. As Korean-Americans, we watched this phenomenon unfold from home on our TV screens, eagerly awaiting the arrival of these chips at our local Korean grocery stores. Ultimately, we just couldn’t wait and asked our Korean relatives to pack some of these snacks in their luggage when they visited us. Since trying these chips, which did not disappoint one bit, my family has been obsessed with any food that combines honey and butter. These drumsticks, sweetened with honey, spiced with plenty of garlic, and finished with a dollop of butter, remind me so much of those chips. They’re sweet and savory with a satisfying richness in every bite — just like the irresistible flavor of those honey-butter chips (which are now available in the United States and have even been imitated by American snack brands).”
Umma’s Kitchen Wisdom: I call for extra-virgin olive oil here, rather than neutral cooking oil, because its fruity, peppery flavor and richness complement the honey and butter perfectly.
Ingredients:
3 pounds chicken drumsticks, trimmed
2½ cups milk
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon fine salt, divided
1 teaspoon black pepper, divided
¼ cup honey
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
2½ tablespoons salted butter
Ingredients:
Rinse and drain the chicken, then transfer to a large bowl or container. Add the milk and toss to coat. Arrange the chicken in an even layer, making sure all the chicken is submerged in the milk. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Drain and thoroughly rinse the chicken until the water runs clear. Clean and dry the bowl. Using a sharp knife, make 4 to 6 slashes in each drumstick (each slash should reach the bone). Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and transfer to the bowl.
Add the oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper and toss the chicken to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.
Whisk the honey, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and remaining ½ teaspoon pepper together in a small bowl; set the sauce aside.
Toss the chicken again to coat in the oil that has settled in the bowl. Working with 1 drumstick at a time, stretch the skin to evenly cover the meat, then arrange skin side down in a 12-inch nonstick skillet. Drizzle any remaining oil left in the bowl over the chicken. Cook over medium-high heat, turning the chicken occasionally, until spotty golden brown, about 10 minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and continue to cook, turning the chicken occasionally, until it registers at least 185 degrees, about 20 minutes.
Spoon the garlic into the spaces between the drumsticks where the oil has pooled. Cook, spreading the garlic into the skillet with the back of a spoon, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Gently toss the chicken until evenly coated with the garlic. Add the sauce, stirring in any browned bits in the skillet. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, continuously coating and basting the chicken in the sauce, until the sauce has thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the butter until the sauce has thickened into a glaze, about 30 seconds. Serve.
Recipes are excerpted from “Umma” by Sarah Ahn and Nam Soon Ahn. Photos: Kritsada Panichgul/America’s Test Kitchen)
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Try some juicy Cinco de Mayo recipes Check out these Mexican inspired recipes using orange juice, not often thought of when it comes to Mexican dishes.
Ceviche Style Florida Citrus Shrimp Salsa is a creative take on salsa. (Courtesy of Florida Department of Citrus)
Tacos, chips and salsa, margaritas, tequila, guacamole and festively dressed Mariachi bands will take center stage next week at home parties and at many restaurants. They’ll provide the backdrop with music, colorful decorations and Mexican-inspired fare.
Why? It is the celebration of Cinco de Mayo. I’m frequently reminded that I was born on this day of resilience and joy, and in addition to Mexican fare, I also get to enjoy birthday cake (I’m thinking about that tres leches cake, a recipe from a chef I know from Mexico), and love from family and friends.
This year, I have a feeling that the festivities will begin on the weekend since Cinco de Mayo is on a Monday this year.
I’ve asked several people what the significance of the day is, and most didn’t know. Those who did think it’s the celebration of Mexico’s independence, which it is not.
My informal research held true. An article on NBC.com by E. Caban, bit.ly/3EwbKrn, titled “90% of Americans ‘Clueless’ about Cinco de Mayo” caught my attention.
The article focused on a survey of 1,000 American’s released by NationalToday.com: “It shows only 10% of Americans know the true reason for the event. Thirty nine percent of respondents said they believed the holiday serves as Mexican Independence Day (It is Sept. 16). Another 26% think Cinco de Mayo is a celebration of Mexican-American culture, and 13% of people thought it was just an excuse to drink.”
So what is Cinco de Mayo’s history? It is the day in 1862 when the Mexican Army surprisingly defeated the French in the Battle of Puebla. What I find interesting is that Cinco de Mayo is celebrated more in the United States than Mexico, although it is a big celebration in Puebla, where the day is celebrated with parades and reenactments of the 1862 battle.
Like many holidays and celebrations, commercialization has been at the forefront with the significance left behind, food and drink reigning supreme.
According to the Indiana Historical Society: “To truly celebrate this holiday via culinary means is to enjoy Mole Poblano (pronounced mo-lay). Mole Poblano originated in Puebla, where the battle against the French took place.”
So many recipes come into my inbox. Many are from various agricultural food associations. There seems to be one for just about every crop. I recently received an email with recipes for Mexican-inspired recipes from the Florida Department of Citrus, www.floridacitrus.org.
If you think about it, citrus as an ingredient in Mexican fare makes sense, especially lime. It cuts through the heaviness of many dishes, plus the acidity balances the richness and spice.

Kid-approved Florida Orange Juice Easy 15-minute Nachos are easy-to-make and feature the amazing taste of Florida Orange Juice. (Courtesy of Florida Department of Citrus)
Check out these Mexican inspired recipes using orange juice, not often thought of when it comes to Mexican dishes. For the recipe for Florida Orange Juice Easy 15-Minute Nachos, visit https://stephenfries.com/recipes.
“Cooking with 100% orange juice is the perfect way to dress up any Cinco de Mayo recipe, while also delivering a powerful combination of vitamins, minerals and phytonutrients with associated health benefits,” said Jennifer Hillis, University of South Florida citrus nutrition research liaison. “Plus, it’s fat-free, cholesterol-free, sodium-free and has no added sugar. These Florida Orange Juice inspired mocktails, appetizers and meals can be enjoyed as part of a healthy and balanced diet.
“These beverages and recipes, when paired with the flavor and nutrients in 100% orange juice, make for a delicious Cinco de Mayo spread.”

Shredded Chicken Tacos With Orange Chipotle Sauce and Zesty Salsa
Shredded Chicken Tacos With Orange Chipotle Sauce and Zesty Salsa are anything but ordinary, the perfect balance between citrus and heat. (Courtesy of Florida Department of Citrus)
Makes 6 servings
Ingredients:
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon Florida Orange Juice, divided
2 bone–in chicken breasts
2 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce
1 cup sour cream
2 ripe tomatoes, diced
1 Florida orange, segmented, chopped, seeded
½ cup fresh cilantro, chopped
¼ cup white onion, diced
½ jalapeño, diced
Juice of 1 lime
1 tablespoon white vinegar
Salt
Pepper
6 (6-inch) flour tortillas
Shredded Romaine or iceberg lettuce
Directions:
1. Place chicken breasts in saucepan; cover with water.
2. Add ½ cup orange juice; bring to a boil.
3. Reduce heat; simmer for 25 minutes or until chicken is thoroughly cooked.
4. Remove chicken; cool.
5. Remove cooked chicken; discard skin and bones.
6. Shred chicken; reserve.
7. In food processor, place chipotle peppers and remaining 1 tablespoon orange juice. Pulse 3 to 5 times to break up peppers. Add sour cream and pulse to combine. Refrigerate until ready to use.
8. In mixing bowl, combine tomato, orange segments, cilantro, onion, jalapeño pepper, lime juice and white vinegar. Season to taste with salt and pepper; reserve.
9. Heat large frying pan over medium-high heat.
10. Carefully toast tortillas one at a time in dry pan for about 3 minutes per side, using tongs to move tortilla around in small circles so it does not burn. Keep tortillas warm.
11. Fill toasted tortillas with shredded chicken and lettuce. Top with Orange-Chipotle Sauce and Zesty Salsa; serve immediately.
Ceviche Style Florida Citrus Shrimp Salsa
Makes 10 servings
Ingredients:
⅔ cup Florida Orange Juice
Juice of 2 limes
1 to 2 teaspoons sriracha
2 lbs. large shrimp, cooked, coarsely chopped
2 ripe avocados, diced
1 mango, peeled, pitted, diced (about 1 ½ cups)
½ bunch green onions, finely chopped
½ bunch fresh cilantro, finely chopped
Directions:
1. Combine Florida Orange Juice, lime juice and sriracha sauce. Add shrimp and toss to coat the shrimp.
2. Add avocado, mango, green onions and cilantro.
3. Serve

Florida Orange Margarita: This easy-to-make cocktail is refreshing and features the great taste of Florida Orange Juice. (Courtesy of Florida Department of Citrus)
Florida Orange Margarita
Try our Florida Orange Margarita that is perfect for entertaining over spring celebrations like Cinco De Mayo and brunch! This easy-to-make cocktail is refreshing and features the great taste of Florida OJ.
Makes 4 servings
Ingredients:
1 cup Florida Orange Juice
2 to 3 ounces lime juice
2 ounces triple sec (or other orange liqueur)
5 ounces tequila
2 teaspoons honey or agave nectar
Kosher salt
Lime slices, for garnish
Directions:
1. Rub the rims of 4 glasses with a slice of lime to wet it. Sprinkle kosher salt onto a plate and dip the rim of each glass in the salt, pressing and turning it until the rim is coated.
2. In a pitcher, combine Florida Orange Juice, 2 ounces of lime juice, triple sec, tequila, and honey or agave nectar and mix well. Taste and add additional lime juice if desired.

Florida Orange Punch is refreshing and perfect for those summer picnics. (Courtesy of Florida Department of Citrus)
Florida Orange Punch
Makes 16 servings
Ingredients:
4 cups Florida Orange Juice
2 cups Florida Grapefruit Juice
2 cups Florida Oranges, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
4 cups pineapple juice
2 cups pineapple, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
½ cup mango juice
½ cup passion fruit nectar
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons lime juice
1 vanilla bean pod, split open and seeds scraped out
Florida Orange slices, for garnish
Pineapple wedges, for garnish
Directions:
1. Combine all ingredients in a large pitcher and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours until chilled.
2. To serve, remove vanilla bean pod and pour into tall glasses with ice.
3. Garnish with Florida Orange slices and pineapple wedges.
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Add some new dishes to Passover menu Spring holiday meals celebrate tradition and provoke fond memories, many about food.
Passover begins at sundown on Saturday, April 12 with the first Seder and ends on April 20, which also is Easter Sunday this year. Hopefully, this article will inspire you to add some new dishes to your Passover holiday repertoire.
Although they are different spring holidays, Passover and Easter include meals that celebrate tradition, and provoke fond memories, many about food.
One thing I remember from my childhood is that the same menu was prepared year after year. Experimenting with new recipes was not something my family did, keeping to the tried and true.
Then again, in those days, there were not many cookbooks featuring Passover recipes to add variety to the menu, plus the plethora of online recipes simply wasn’t in existence. Am I aging myself?
A fond memory: I enjoyed arranging the Seder plate with the various foods and listening to my dad explain what each one symbolizes. My job was preparing the Seder plate’s charoset, a mixture of apples, nuts and wine, symbolizing the mortar made by the Jewish slaves.
I remember my paternal grandmother hooking up the hand grinder to the edge of the kitchen counter and grinding the fresh fish and other ingredients. She let me turn the handle but didn’t allow me to put the ingredients into the hopper. She didn’t want those little fingers to get caught. Electric grinders weren’t popular back then.
Those who don’t celebrate this holiday can still enjoy trying these recipes. I know many who are not Jewish but keep a box of matzo in their cupboard. Matzo, spread with butter or cream cheese, seems to be universally enjoyed.
“A Taste of Pesach 2: Trusted Favorites, Simple Preparation, Magnificent Results” is a project of Yeshiva Me’On Hatorah in Roosevelt, N.J. (2018, Artscroll/Shaar Press, $36.99). The book includes recipes for mouthwatering dishes, great serving ideas and ways to make a Passover menu exciting. And don’t put the recipes away after Passover because these recipes will help make the rest of the year delicious.
I particularly enjoyed the “Plate It!” chapter, where the photos and captions show how to dress up plates and make the food look beautiful, using ingredients to garnish that are probably in your refrigerator or pantry.
The first makeover in this chapter is gefilte fish (prepared from a mix of ground and deboned fish, usually whitefish, pike and carp that is poached), usually served as a first course. It is commonly served sitting on a leaf of lettuce or other greens with a slice of cooked carrot on top.
This makeover bends slices of cucumber over strips of gefilte fish with a skewer holding the cucumber in place. Using a squeeze bottle, dots of chrayonaise (a mixture of pureed beets, horseradish and mayonnaise) top the cucumber slices. To add color, spiralized beets are placed on the side.
The dozen makeovers show each respective, completed plate, the components and step-by-step instructions. You, too, can become a food-stylist with these handy techniques, a springboard for further creativity.
The dishes, many gluten-free, from appetizers (Potato Stuffed Eggplant, Duck Crepes With Apricot Sauce, Tuna Tartare, Deli Chunk Soup) through mains (Sea Salt Potato Chip Encrusted Tilapia, Horseradish Rib Roast) and sides (Doughless Potato Knishes, Apple Apricot Kugel), plus mouthwatering desserts (Pears in Custard, Mini Chocolate Trifles) are beautifully photographed in an easy-to-follow format.
This year, break your traditional menu with these recipes for Spinach Potato Nests, a new take on Matzo Kugel and an easy recipe for Gefilte Fish.
My best wishes for happy spring holiday celebrations filled with incredible food that create memories that will last a lifetime.
(Courtesy of ArtScroll/Mesorah Publications Ltd. )
Spinach Potato Nests
Make 8 nests
Ingredients:
4 large Yukon gold potatoes
2 teaspoons salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
2 eggs, beaten
4 teaspoons oil
Spinach Filling:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 onions, diced
16 ounces fresh baby spinach leaves
2 cloves garlic, crushed
Salt and pepper to taste
1 egg, lightly beaten
Directions:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Prepare the nests: Using a food processor fitted with the shredding blade, shred potatoes into strings. Add salt, pepper, eggs and oil, and then let rest in a colander set over a bowl to drain for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the spinach filling: Heat oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions; sauté until translucent but not brown. Add spinach and garlic; sauté until spinach is wilted, about 5 minutes. Stir in salt and pepper and beaten egg.
Generously coat a muffin pan with nonstick cooking spray. Add potato mixture to each muffin cup, pressing it against the bottom and up the sides. Bake for 15 minutes, until slightly browned. Remove from oven; fill each nest with spinach mixture. Bake for 10 minutes.
To serve, loosen the edges of each nest with a narrow metal spatula or butter knife; unmold onto individual plates or a platter.
(Courtesy of ArtScroll/Mesorah Publications Ltd. )
Matzo Kugel
The headnote says: “Every family that eats gebrokts* seems to have their own matzo kugel recipe that they make year after year. If you are ready for a change, this recipe is a great option. As an added bonus, you can use the mixture to stuff chicken or veal pockets.”
*Gebrokts is matzo that has absorbed liquid.
Yields 20 servings
Ingredients:
Oil for sautéing
2 onions, peeled and sliced
3 carrots, peeled and shredded
3 stalks celery, sliced
10 mushrooms, sliced, optional
1 pound matzo
2 cups hot water
4 eggs, slightly beaten
Salt and pepper to taste
Directions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Coat one 9 x 13 inch pan or two 9-inch round pans with nonstick cooking spray.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions; sauté for 7 minutes. Add carrots, celery and mushrooms (if using). Continue to sauté until softened, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes.
Break matzo into medium-sized pieces; place into a bowl. Pour the hot water over matzo and let stand for 5-10 minutes, until soft. Drain water completely.
Add vegetables to bowl; mix to combine. Add eggs, salt, pepper; mix well.
Pour into prepared pan(s). Bake for 1 hour or slightly longer, until firm.
This presentation is a step up from placing the Gefilte Fish on a leaf of lettuce topped with a cooked carrot slice. (Courtesy of ArtScroll/Mesorah Publications Ltd. )
Gefilte Fish
If grinding fish is too much work and the bottled variety just won’t do it, this recipe using a loaf of frozen gefilte fish is just what might become your go-to recipe.
Yields 10 servings
Ingredients:
4 tablespoons oil
2 large onions, sliced
2 shallots, sliced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 (20-ounce) loaf frozen gefilte fish, defrosted for about 10 minutes
¼ teaspoon pepper
Directions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or coat with nonstick cooking spray.
Heat oil over medium heat. Add onions and shallots; sauté until translucent. Add garlic; continue to sauté until onions begin to caramelize. Add honey and brown sugar; cook 10 minutes, stirring constantly.
Unwrap fish, cut into 10 slices (about ¾-inch thick), and arrange on prepared baking sheet. Top each fish round with 1-2 tablespoons onion mixture. Sprinkle with pepper.
Bake 35-40 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
To prepare in advance: This looks prettiest when baked fresh, so freeze after slicing and topping with onion mixture, then bake immediately before serving.
Recipes and photos reproduced from “A Taste of Pesach 2: Trusted Favorites, Simple Preparation, Magnificent Results,” a project of Yeshiva Me’on Hatorah (Roosevelt) with permission of the copyright holders, ArtScroll/Mesorah Publications Ltd.
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Get away from it all at the Lansdowne Resort It's nestled near historic Leesburg, Va., in Loudoun County, known as the state’s wine country.
Get away from it all at the Lansdowne Resort in Virginia.

Piedmont’s at the golf club at Lansdowne Resort. (Chris Bartlett)
Editor’s note: Chris Bartlett contributed to this column.
Perched atop an expansive hilltop of resplendent rolling greens and thickly wooded slopes that gently hug then rise above the Potomac River, the Lansdowne Resort, https://lansdowneresort.com, is a tranquil place to step away from life’s hectic, daily demands, and get away from it all. It’s a well-deserved respite after winter’s cabin fever. Yes, spring has sprung!
Feed your curiosity and need to experience new ways to relax, play, rejuvenate and savor the glorious flavors, all this nestled near historic Leesburg, Va., in Loudoun County, known as the state’s wine country.
The area can keep wine aficionados busy with more than 50 wineries and tasting rooms. Photographers can capture the scenery from the panoramic hillside vineyards. Though we didn’t have time to delve too deeply into wine sampling, we can tell you that one winery estate after another, seemingly without end, left us breathless.
And when you’ve had enough rest and relaxation, Washington, D.C., is 30 miles away, perfect for a day trip, plus the resort is 12 miles from Dulles Airport.
From specialty curated wine dinners such as the upcoming Earth Day celebration on April 22 (this culinary experience is billed as “The Purest Meal You’ll Ever Enjoy,” bit.ly/4hHru8C) to relaxing the day away at Spa Minerale or strolling the wooded trails that run along the Potomac, we discovered how much diverse fun the varied activities are.
There’s tennis, pickleball, indoor and outdoor pools with private cabanas. The spa is an oasis for pampering yourself with massages, facials, an herbal detox plus other treatments that will leave you less stressed.

The Greg Norman Golf Course, one of three courses at Lansdowne Resort. (Courtesy of Lansdowne Resort)
Three golf courses (45 holes) with the backdrop of the Potomac River Valley are a golfer’s playground. Choose from the Greg Norman Course, Robert Trent Jones Jr. Course or the 9-hole Greg Norman Sharkbite course, perfect for junior players.
Piedmont’s, overlooking the Greg Norman golf course and Potomac River, was the first meal we had upon arrival at lunch time. The weather was perfect to dine on the terrace, however the thought of sitting indoors by the enticing floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace was tempting.
The Chesapeake Crab Cake Sliders is perfect for an appetizer for three people or as an entrée for one. Chock full of lump crab meat, it is served on a toasted brioche roll with lettuce, tomato and a remoulade with just enough kick.
The Tiger Steak Sandwich has a generous amount of marinated steak tips, cooked to perfection, caramelized onion, arugula and a house-made steak sauce that complemented the dish well.
The popular Banh Mi Vietnamese sandwich is tangy, crunchy, savory with a slight touch of sweetness and spice, and Piedmont’s version has hoisin-glazed pork belly, pickled vegetables, cucumber, jalapeno and sriracha mayo. Those flavors and textures are married well.
Coton & Rye pays homage to the Coton & Rye farm property that in the late 1700s stood on the land that the resort was built on. Rye was the main crop.
The information about the restaurant says: “Today, this agricultural heritage is honored with comforting tavern fare prepared from Old Dominion recipes made with freshly picked ingredients sourced from local farms. Virginia-crafted beer, wine and spirits toast our time-honored legacy.”
A generous serving of the Mediterranean Hummus was the starter; feta-olive tapenade topped the hummus, and alongside are cucumbers, sweet peppers, carrots and warm naan for dipping. In the mood for pasta, the Pan Seared Lemon Thyme Chicken is served with artichokes, blistered tomatoes with angel hair.
The Miso Glazed salmon with bok choy, mushrooms, carrots and steamed rice was our other entrée, and what a delicious choice it was.
Rather than dessert and coffee, I opted for a mocktail, the Espresso Martini, a nitro-charged blend producing aromas of sweet coffee alongside notes of vanilla and mocha with a silky-smooth finish.

Spinach and artichoke dip at Piedmont’s at the Lansdowne Resort is a rich and creamy, indulgent starter that’s enough to share. (Stephen Fries)
Wanting to experience Piedmont’s for dinner and finally enjoy eating by that fireplace, a reservation was made. The spinach and artichoke dip is served warm, golden brown in a small crock; it’s a rich and creamy, indulgent starter that’s enough to share.
The pan roasted Chilean Sea Bass accompaniment of lobster mashed potatoes caught my attention, a first time seeing this take on the comfort side dish. Grilled asparagus, blistered vine tomatoes and citrus beurre blanc completed this dish. And, the sea bass, the real star, was cooked to perfection.
The other entrée, Seafood Carbonara, is a twist on the classic. The smoky pancetta melded well with the succulent pieces of lobster and lump crab.

Chocolate Layer Cake is Moist chocolate cake with layers of chocolate cream then topped with a bittersweet ganache, the sweet ending to dinner at Piedmont’s at Lansdowne Resort. (Chris Bartlett)
The sweet ending was shared…chocolate layer cake, moist chocolate cake with layers of chocolate cream then topped with a bittersweet ganache. Fresh berries crowned this jewel of a dessert, plus a dollop of fresh whipped cream and chocolate shavings added to the presentation.
Breakfasts were at the resort’s Riverside Hearth. The buffet has several stations with endless options. We marveled at the interactive-exhibition kitchen, where chefs and line cooks are openly showcasing their craft while preparing made-to-order items.

Relax by the firepit under starry skies at Lansdowne Resort (Courtesy of Lansdowne Resort)
Once spring arrives, the seasonal outlets open. Harmony Garden boasts terrace seating so guests can enjoy the scenery, craft cocktails, lite fare and live music on Fridays. Enjoy tropical drinks and lite bites at Current’s Pool & Grill. Golfers, check out Turnberry’s located between the 9th and 10th holes on the Greg Norman course, serving sit-down fare and grab-and-go items.

Seared Scallops sits on a bed of Butternut Risotto (Stephen Fries)
The resort’s Executive Chef Chris Ferrier heads up the food venues. I had the opportunity to watch him prepare one of his seasonal dishes, Butternut Squash Risotto. See it at https://youtu.be/7o4WClJP0ho. For the recipe, visit bit.ly/41VKIml.
After a few days of invigorating morning trail walks, followed by midday health club sessions, afternoon spa service visits and delicious dinners on property, we took time both to get better acquainted with nearby Leesburg and the farther rolling hills that adorn Loudoun County.
Leesburg, the quaint, charming, picturesque city and county seat, is perfect for shopping at unique boutiques, visiting historical and cultural attractions, enjoying the colonial-era architecture and (of course!) grazing and dining.
King Street in Leesburg stands out as the epicenter of town, with retail, commerce and food places occupying most storefronts along the way. Both BKD bagels and Cowbell Kitchen check the box for a fresh, delicious breakfast or lunch. We chose bagel sandwiches at the former, and our post-breakfast sweet treat at the latter.

Mom’s Apple Pie bakery goes way beyond its namesake. There are chocolate pecan, sour cherry crumb, bourbon walnut, lemon chess, coconut cream, the list is long and endlessly tempting. (Stephen Fries)
A short walk down the hill off King Street, we delightedly found ourselves at Mom’s Apple Pie Bakery. It is an institution in northern Virginia with three locations after having been started by farmers in the family kitchen with the installation of a convection oven back in 1981. This bakery goes way beyond its’ namesake…chocolate pecan, sour cherry crumb, bourbon walnut, lemon chess, coconut cream…the list is long and endlessly tempting!

Both adults and kids will enjoy a visit to Sunflower Shack with the huge selection of nostalgic candy and soda. (Stephen Fries)
Adults and kids will enjoy a visit to Sunflower Shack, https://sunflowershack.com, with the huge selection of nostalgic candy and soda. Some flavors of soda are quite odd…mustard, cucumber, cotton candy, bubble gum? With dozens to choose from, you’re bound to find one that you’ll be curious to try.

Manjari, a chocoholic’s dream dessert served at The Conche, a chocolate-centric restaurant in Leesburg, is single origin 64% Madagascar chocolate mousse filled with vanilla crème brulee, dark chocolate brownie, chocolate pearls, salted caramel ice cream. (Chris Bartlett)
Our one dinner outside the resort had to be at The Conche, https://www.the-conche.com, despite downtown Leesburg having several other local all-stars from which to choose. The chocolate-centric restaurant was a must for this chocoholic.
Of course, there are decadent chocolate desserts, however Chef Tiptur and his team weave chocolate into many of the savory dishes. We began the chocolate extravaganza with The Conche Signature Caesar Salad (grilled romaine, house marinated heirloom cherry tomatoes, Parmesan croutons, cocoa nib brittle shards, cocoa-Infused cured egg yolk).
To continue on the chocolate theme, it was the Conche Burger (braised beef short ribs, bacon, caramelized shallot jam, sharp Vermont cheddar, creamed spinach, tomato, chocolate BBQ sauce, secret sauce), then crispy calamari (cocoa beer batter, Fresno pepper aioli, pickled radish).
And to really indulge with chocolate, for dessert we had Manjari (single origin 64% Madagascar chocolate mousse filled with vanilla crème brulee, dark chocolate brownie, chocolate pearls, salted caramel ice cream).
I must admit, one of the dishes I tried didn’t incorporate chocolate: cheddar grilled cheese and creamy tomato soup. The chef knows the flavor profiles that will and won’t work with chocolate. Interestingly, though many of the cocoa inclusions seem somewhat outlandish, it all really works well together.
I know we’ll be returning to Leesburg and Lansdowne Resort now that we know this gem has so much to see and explore. For more about Leesburg and Loudoun County, visit https://leesburgva.gov and https://visitloudoun.org.
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
#lansdowne resort#leesburg#virginia#culinary travel#golf resort#loudoun county#greater washington#dc#wine country
#lansdowne resort#leesburg VA#virginia#culinary travel#golf resorts#loudoun county#greater washington#wine country
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Take comfort in St. Patrick’s Day fare Enjoy a taste of Ireland to celebrate the holiday.
Irish Soda Bread: A cross is cut into the top to help it rise and, according to Irish folklore, to either ward off evil or let the fairies out. (Photo: Parragon Books)
Link to column in newspaper Take comfort in St. Patrick's Day fare
It was about a month ago that I saw the first sign of Saint Patrick’s Day; and what was that sign … a beautiful round Irish soda bread with a deep cross on the top of its’ crust. I enjoy the variation that is dotted throughout with caraway seeds and raisins.
A few days ago, I saw a sign in a bagel bakery requesting customers to place their order for green bagels. Later that day, I noticed all the celebratory items with hues of emerald green at the dollar store: hats, leprechauns, four leaf clovers and all that fun stuff worn at a St. Patrick’s Day party or parade.
So, I thought it was time to write a column about Monday’s event celebrating culture and history that has religious origins, although it has become a secular event.
Did you know:
• Philadelphia’s parade is one of the oldest in the United States, established in 1771. This year it is today at 11 a.m.
• New York City’s first parade: 1762
• Boston’s first parade: 1737
• Montreal’s first parade:1824
• The first parade in Ireland was in 1903, years after the first one in North America
• The real St. Patrick was born in Britain
• Corned beef and cabbage were first introduced in the U.S.
• There are more people with Irish ancestry in the U.S. than in Ireland. Most with Irish ancestry in the U.S. live in New England.
• According to U.S. News and World Report, https://bit.ly/4bmiHr0 , a study done by the National Retail Federation showed 62% of the U.S. population planned to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day in 2024, despite only 9% of Americans claiming Irish ancestry.
The Irish pubs I have passed have banners in their windows, promoting their St. Patrick’s Day specials. It is probably the busiest day for them each year.
When I go to an Irish pub, I don’t think beer and spirits, I think of homemade comfort food, served in a cozy and comfortable setting.
Pubs in Ireland are the cornerstone of their communities, relaxed places where locals and visitors can experience the best of traditional Irish hospitality. The same holds true in the U.S.
Many pubs have become the place to go for a great meal, with a choice of both traditional and contemporary dishes. In recent years, Irish cooking has been transformed, with skillful cooks and chefs making the most of wonderful, fresh, local produce to create delicious new dishes and giving a twist to the classics.
Home cooks, too, have put their twist on Irish cuisine. Years ago, I had the opportunity to attend the Pillsbury Bake-Off as a media representative. This iconic cooking competition for home cooks reveals unimaginable creativity. I have every Bake-Off booklet that was published after each event.
Perusing them, I found the winning recipe from the 49th Pillsbury Bake-Off. Melissa Jollands of Hudsonville, Mich., is perfect to mention here, since it was inspired by her trip to Dublin.
While there, she fell in love with the large spread of flavorful cheese and meat boards, served alongside the contrasting flavors and textures of dried fruit and warm bread.
In developing her winning recipe, she said: “I saw Pillsbury’s refrigerated French bread on the list of eligible Bake-Off products and began to think about baking the creamy honey goat cheese, Irish white cheddar, and flavorful salami inside, and how it would be the perfect opportunity to introduce the flavorful cheeseboard cuisine into my own family recipe, while revisiting those exceptional flavors and memories from Dublin.”
The recipe for her pub-style Dublin Cheeseboard-Stuffed Appetizer Bread can be found at https://bit.ly/3aBujG7.
Of course, corned beef and cabbage, Irish stew and Irish soda bread are the classics for a St. Patrick’s Day meal. It was interesting to learn that corned beef and cabbage is not usually eaten in Ireland, it’s an American tradition.
To help take your celebration meal up a notch, pick up a copy of “The Complete Irish Pub Cookbook: The Best of Traditional and Contemporary Irish Cooking” (2018, Parragon Books, $9.99). It provides the best of both worlds, with best-loved favorites and contemporary Irish recipes. Here are a few.
For the recipe for Irish Soda Bread, visit https://bit.ly/2PT72Hy.
(Photo & Recipe : Parragon Books)
Cockle and Mussel Gratin
The headnote says: “Cockles and mussels have always been popular in Irish coastal communities. They could be collected from the shore instead of risking the potential peril of a boat. In this recipe, the two are cooked in a rich and tasty gratin. The crisp topping provides contrasting texture and flavor to the seafood below. If you can’t find cockles, use small clams instead.”
Serves 3-4
Ingredients:
1 3/4 pounds pounds mussels
1⁄2 cup water
1⁄2 cup (1 stick) lightly salted butter
2 onions, chopped
1 1/4 cups cooked shelled cockles
Juice and finely grated zest of 1⁄2 lemon
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Salt and pepper
1 cup coarse bread crumbs from a day-old ciabatta loaf
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Scrub and beard the mussels, discarding any with broken shells or that remain open. Put in a large saucepan with the water. Cover and steam for 4–5 minutes, until the shells open. Discard any that remain closed. Reserve eight mussels in their shells as a garnish. Remove the rest from the shells.
Melt half of the butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté for 7 minutes, until soft but not colored. Transfer to a 2-quart gratin dish.
Add the cockles, shelled mussels, lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons of the parsley. Season with salt and pepper and stir to mix.
Set aside a pat of butter and melt the remaining butter. Mix with the bread crumbs, garlic, lemon zest, and remaining parsley. Season with a little more salt and pepper.
Spread the bread-crumb mixture over the seafood. Top with the reserved mussels and dot them with the remaining butter.
Bake in the oven for 10–15 minutes, until the crumbs are golden and crisp and the seafood is thoroughly heated. Serve immediately.
(Photo & Recipe: Parragon Books)
Beef in Stout With Herb Dumplings
The headnote says: “Stout is a strong, dark beer that originated in the British Isles. The most famous Irish stout is Guinness, which is made from roasted, malted barley, hops, yeast, and water. In this hearty stew, topped with light and fluffy suet dumplings, tender chunks of slow-cooked beef are enveloped in a rich gravy.”
Serves 6
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons sunflower oil
2 large onions, thinly sliced
8 carrots, sliced
1⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
2 3/4 pounds chuck short ribs or center cut beef shanks, cut into cubes
2 cups stout
2 teaspoons firmly packed dark brown sugar
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
Salt and pepper
Herb Dumplings:
1 cup all-purpose flour
11⁄2 teaspoons baking powder
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄4 cup shredded suet (available from butchers) or shortening
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, plus extra to garnish
About 1⁄4 cup water
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Heat the oil in a flameproof casserole dish. Add the onions and carrots and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, or until the onions are softened. Meanwhile, put the flour in a plastic bag and season well with salt and pepper. Add the beef to the bag, tie the top, and shake well to coat. Do this in batches if necessary. Reserve any remaining seasoned flour.
Remove the onions and carrots from the casserole dish with a slotted spoon and reserve. Add the beef to the dish, in batches, and cook, stirring frequently, until browned all over. Return all the meat and the onions and carrots to the casserole dish and sprinkle in the reserved seasoned flour. Pour in the stout and add the sugar, bay leaves, and thyme. Bring to a boil, cover, and cook in the preheated oven for 13⁄4 hours.
To make the herb dumplings, sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Stir in the suet and parsley and add enough of the water to make a soft dough. Shape into small balls between the palms of your hands. Add to the casserole dish and return to the oven for 30 minutes. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Serve immediately, sprinkled with parsley.
Photo & Recipe: Parragon Books
Irish Cream Cheesecake
The headnote says: “This is an unbaked cheesecake and, although it contains no gelatin, its high chocolate content guarantees that it sets perfectly. It is a luxurious dessert that is made even more special by the addition of Irish Cream, a popular liqueur made from Irish whiskey, coffee, and cream.”
Serves 8
Ingredients:
Vegetable oil, for oiling
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups crushed chocolate chip cookies
Crème fraîche or whipped cream and fresh strawberries, to serve
Filling:
8 ounces semisweet dark chocolate, broken into pieces
8 ounces milk chocolate, broken into pieces
1⁄4 cup sugar
1 1/2 cups cream cheese
2 cups heavy cream, lightly whipped
3 tablespoons Irish Cream liqueur
Directions:
Line the bottom of an 8-inch round springform cake pan with parchment paper and brush the sides with oil. Put the butter in a saucepan and heat gently until melted. Stir in the crushed cookies. Press into the bottom of the prepared cake pan and chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
To make the filling, put the dark and milk chocolates into a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of gently simmering water until melted. Let cool. Put the sugar and cream cheese in a bowl and beat together until smooth, then fold in the cream. Fold the melted chocolate into the cream cheese mixture, then stir in the liqueur.
Spoon into the cake pan and smooth the surface. Let chill in the refrigerator for 2 hours, or until firm. Transfer to a serving plate and cut into slices. Serve with crème fraîche and strawberries.
Recipes and images courtesy of Parragon Books
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Cast-iron pan is durable and versatile
Skillet Nachos: Get deliciously crispy nachos by baking them in your cast-iron skillet. (Julia Rutland)
Column as it appears in Media News Group online newspapers
Cast-iron pan is durable and versatile
For many cooks, the well-seasoned and quite often handed down cast-iron pan is a favorite cooking vessel.
While perusing the cookbook shelves at a thrift shop, I decided to explore the kitchenware section. Wow! There were so many cast-iron pots and pans waiting for their new owners to take them home, clean up the rust spots and season them so their culinary history can continue.
There was one pan by Birmingham Stove & Range Co., a now defunct producer of top-quality cast-iron cookware. From what I was told, in good condition, they are worth much more than the $8 price at the thrift shop. I then wondered why it was still on the shelf.
Well, perhaps it is because people couldn’t see past the couple of rust spots or the scraped company emblem on the pan’s bottom, and therefore didn’t know its value. Not needing more cast iron, I passed on buying it. The collector who finds this treasure will transport it into its new era of cooking, perhaps making corn bread, stews and biscuits.
I recently interviewed Julia Rutland, author of “Cast-Iron Cooking: Fresh and Timeless Comfort Food for Sharing” (Adventure Publications, $22.99).
“Whether you’re using your great-grandparents’ used, cast-iron skillet or are shopping for a new Dutch oven, the book advises on how to select, season, and properly care for this versatile cookware,” she said.
Think of the book as Cast-Iron 101, covering how cast iron is made, a history of cast iron in the United States (“European settlers brought with them thick, heavy pots designed with ‘feet’ to be used over an open fire”), collecting vintage pots, benefits and styles, seasoning, cleaning, how to fix problems and over 150 recipes for flavorful dishes including breads, stews, pizza and dessert.
My Q & A with Rutland revealed quite a bit about these durable and versatile cooking vessels.
Q: How did you first get into cooking with cast iron?
A: Living in the South, cornbread is made in cast iron … it is almost an unwritten rule here. I’ve been cooking on an induction cooktop for 17 years, and cast iron works great on it. It works on electric, gas, over a fire … it’s universal.
Q: Do you have a favorite cast-iron piece in your collection?
A: It depends upon what I am making. My 12-inch skillet is my go-to. For soups and stews it is an enamel coated Dutch oven. Staub and Le Creuset are brands I like; U.S. made cast iron.
Q: What are common mistakes people make when cooking with cast iron?
A: Too hot of a pan. Medium-high works best unless you are blackening.
Q: Are there any dishes that work surprisingly well in cast iron?
A: Corn bread, blackened fish. It is great for browning, caramelization and frying.
Q: What about dishes that don’t work well?
A: Cakes are the trickiest.
Q: What are some tips for seasoning and maintaining cast iron?
A: After cooking meat or fish, rinse with a bit of soap; vegetables, only hot water. Make sure you dry the pan. Keep it upside down so it doesn’t puddle. Rub a thin coat of oil on it.
Q: What are your go-to recipes using cast-iron?
A: Corn bread, it is an easy side dish. Beef stew in the Dutch oven. The dish on the front cover of the book (Pan-Roasted Chicken Provencal), Hasselback potatoes, cinnamon roll coffee cake.
Q: What recipe in the book would you say is unique?
A: Butter Swim Biscuits. The headnote says: “These biscuits are known for their rich, buttery flavor, and soft, tender texture. They’re unique because they are baked in a cast-iron skillet that is ‘swimming’ in butter before the batter is poured in. The edges get crisp and are arguably the best part.”
Q: How did you develop the recipes in the book?
A: I took dishes that I make and was curious how they would do in cast iron.
Q: Which is the recipe readers must make?
A: Pan-Roasted Chicken Provencal
Q: What’s one myth about cast-cooking that you would like to debunk?
A: Many people find it intimidating. That might be when first using cast iron. With proper seasoning and washing, it will become a favorite way to cook.
Q: What are the best brands to purchase?
A: Lodge is good for entry level. For premium enamel coated, Staub or Le Creuset. Field Co., a premium brand, produces a smoother interior.
Q: What do you hope the reader gets from the book?
A: Learn the basics of cast-iron cooking, make it their go-to cooking method and have fun.
Start with these recipes. For the recipes for Potato and Bacon Breakfast Skillet and Skillet Nachos visit https://stephenfries.com/recipes.
Cinnamon Roll Coffee Cake
The headnote says: “I initially placed this recipe in the dessert chapter before deciding to add it to the breads-and-breakfast section because it’s essentially a sweet quick bread. Quick breads use baking powder and/or baking soda instead of yeast and are considered quick because there is no lengthy rising time involved.”
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Equipment: 10-inch cast-iron skillet
Pan savvy: Either round or square cast-iron skillets will work. Square or rectangle servings are typical, but the sweet bread will taste just as delicious when cut into wedges from a round pan.
Ingredients:
1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
½ cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
¾ cup whole milk
¼ cup melted salted or unsalted butter
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Brown Sugar-Cinnamon Topping (recipe follows)
½ cup chopped pecans
Glaze (recipe follows)
Directions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 10-inch cast-iron skillet.
Combine flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Combine milk, butter, eggs, and vanilla in another bowl. Add milk mixture to flour mixture, stirring just until blended (do not overmix).
Spoon batter into prepared skillet. Drizzle Brown Sugar-Cinnamon Topping over batter, sprinkle with pecans, and swirl with a knife.
Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown and firm in center. Drizzle with Glaze.
Brown Sugar-Cinnamon Topping: Combine ½ cup melted salted or unsalted butter, ½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar, 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, and 1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon in a medium bowl. Makes about 2/3 cup.
Glaze: Combine ½ cup powdered sugar, 1 tablespoon whole milk, and ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract in a small bowl. Makes ¼ cup.
Start the day on a sweet note when you make this scrumptious coffee cake topped with the flavors of the beloved handheld breakfast treat. Or serve it in the late afternoon with tea and good conversation.
Pepper Steak Stir-Fry
The headnote says: “The heat of cast iron creates a delicious crusty-edged steak, but it doesn’t reduce quickly. To avoid scorching the meal, have all your ingredients and sauce mixture prepped ahead. Make sure the beef is very cold, as it’s easier to thinly slice meat that’s chilled till semi-frozen. While this dish is mild and universally appealing, I like a bit of spice, so I’ll drizzle sriracha and hoisin sauce over my serving.”
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Equipment: 12-inch cast-iron skillet
Ingredients:
1 tablespoon avocado or vegetable oil
2 teaspoons sesame oil
½ cup beef broth or water
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
3 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
3 bell peppers (any color), cut into strips
½ white onion, sliced
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 to 1 ½ pounds lean flank or sirloin steak, very thinly sliced
1/8 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
Hot cooked rice
Sriracha sauce or hoisin sauce (optional)
Directions:
Combine avocado oil and sesame oil in a small bowl. Combine broth, sugar, cornstarch, soy sauce, and vinegar in another small bowl; set broth mixture aside.
Heat half of oil mixture in a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add bell peppers and onion. Cook, stirring constantly, for 3 to 4 minutes. Add ginger and garlic; cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Transfer bell pepper mixture to a platter.
Heat remaining half of oil mixture in skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle steak with salt and black pepper. Add steak and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes or until browned on all sides. Stir in reserved broth mixture. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and cook for 1 minute or until sauce thickens. Stir in bell pepper mixture.
Serve over hot cooked rice, and drizzle with sriracha sauce, if desired.
Hasselback Potatoes
The headnote says: “This dish is distinctive with its accordion-like slices of potato cooked with butter, fresh herbs, and cheese. The edges become crispy in the oven, while the interior of the potato remains tender. Multiple slices mean the tempting flavors can seep into the potato, making every bite delicious. I prefer smaller Yukon Gold or gold potatoes, but you can use russet potatoes, if you like. Large potatoes will require more baking time to become tender.”
Makes 6 servings
Equipment: 12- or 10-inch cast-iron skillet
Pan savvy: The same weight of small potatoes will take up more room in the skillet than fewer, larger potatoes. Adjust the size of the pan based on the size of the potatoes. You can test by placing them in the skillet before washing and prepping.
Ingredients:
1 ½ pounds small Yukon Gold or gold potatoes
¼ cup salted butter, melted
¼ teaspoon paprika
1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/8 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
2 tablespoons grated Romano or Parmesan cheese
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs (rosemary and/or parsley)
Directions:
Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
Slice a thin layer along each potato to create a flat base so potatoes don’t roll. Place, flat side down, on a cutting board; cut 1/8-inch-thick slices into — but not completely through — each potato. (Place chopsticks or wooden spoons on either side as guides to stop you from cutting all the way through.)
Place potatoes in a large skillet. Combine butter, paprika, salt, pepper, cheese, and garlic in a bowl. Brush about half of butter mixture over potatoes, making sure butter mixture gets in between slices. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes or until potatoes are almost tender.
Brush potatoes with the remaining half of butter mixture. Bake, uncovered, for 15 to 20 more minutes or until crisp and golden on the outside and tender on the inside. Spoon-melted butter from bottom of pan over potatoes. Sprinkle with fresh herbs.
Recipes courtesy of
Photos by Julia Rutland
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Fort Myers is a destination to savor
The culinary-focused Luminary Hotel & Co. overlooks the Caloosahatchee River (Chris Bartlett)
Editor’s note: Chris Bartlett contributed to this column.
From iconic architecture and storied estates, the downtown River District of Fort Myers, Fla., bursts with a vibrant arts and culture scene. It is brimming with festivals and live theater. There are historic museums dedicated to and located at the winter homes of local luminaries Thomas Edison and Henry Ford.
Unique shops and galleries, plus a culinary scene celebrating the city’s coastal location and diverse influences make it a lively destination to savor and explore. This historic city center perched alongside the shoreline of the Caloosahatchee River is one of Florida’s most exciting and walkable areas to visit.
Between our home away from home at the exquisitely appointed, culinary-focused (racks of cookbooks in the lobby included!) Luminary Hotel & Co., www.LuminaryHotel.com, and a downtown that’s both beautiful and delightful, our stay here felt a bit like spending time at a super-cool theme park that awakened our senses at every block and turn.
Simply put, we love it here … truly well-deserving of being this year’s hidden gem of Florida.
Fort Myers has a storied history. (Chris Bartlett)
Initially, as we drove into downtown Fort Myers, we could see and sense that this place had something special, and different, going on. From the rust-hewn, brick-laid streets to poetic facades on attractive buildings, one after another after another . . . we were already dazzled with curiosity and intrigued to get out on foot into the magic of it all.
After an afternoon stroll that included a little retail therapy and window shopping, it was dinnertime at The Silver King Ocean Brasserie. The seafood-centric restaurant is located on the lobby level of the Luminary Hotel & Co.
We cannot express how much we loved every drop of this experience and meal. The space is coastal, minimalist-bistro chill. Center stage is the open kitchen where we enjoyed watching the chefs create artfully plated dishes. The service is sublime and welcoming. Everything we sipped and savored was expertly prepared and pure joy both to the eyes and on the palate.
Dinner began with a roasted beet salad and the “not so typical” Caesar salad as it is called. Rather than using anchovies, the chef incorporates shaved tuna flakes, and the traditional dressing is replaced with creamy peppercorn.
One entrée was crispy red snapper served with tarragon roasted potatoes, citrus-arugula salad, tomato and coriander-chili pistou. The chef created the perfect blend of crispiness, creaminess and spice. The pan-roasted scallops with saffron rice pilaf, carrot-ginger bisque, with pistachios sprinkled on top, is the perfect marriage of textures and flavors… sweet, savory and aromatic.
Crispy red snapper has perfect blend of crispiness, creaminess and spice is served at The Silver King Ocean Brasserie at Luminary Hotel & Co. (Chris Bartlett)
The Parisienne Gnocchi was an entree I was longing to try, so the chef offered to prepare it for me as you will see in this video https://youtu.be/14B2qTkSVNE. You can find the recipe here, https://stephenfries.com/recipes.
Executive Chef Joe Pankrath of Luminary Hotel & Co. with the Parisienne Gnocchi. (Stephen Fries)
The sweet endings were dark chocolate mousse with caramelized banana compote and chocolate crispies and strawberries and cream (lemon and rose marinated strawberries, chamomile cream, ginger butter cake). Need I say more about these heavenly desserts! Exquisite and superb beyond words.
The Penthouse Brunch is served at the hotel’s rooftop restaurant, Beacon Social Drinkery. The tall and crispy croissant twists are served in a mason jar with smoked salmon dip topped with fried capers, onion and tomato. The hangover (Mexican chorizo, crispy potatoes, poached eggs, hollandaise, onions, pico de gallo) is a flavor-packed, indulgent, brunch dish.
To top-off brunch, the lemon-poppy-seed pancakes, stacked high with blueberry compote , mascarpone whip and granola are light, fluffy and bursting with flavor with a subtle crunch. The venue is popular at sunset, serving craft cocktails and Asian-inspired small plates high above the Caloosahatchee. Grab your camera and head on up — the view is that great.
Luminary Hotel & Co. has Oxbow Bar & Grill steps away from the lobby, which sits on the banks of the river. Wow! The combination of great food and picturesque views. The vibrant colors of the Mediterranean Board had us eating with our eyes… red pepper hummus, tzatziki, baba ganoush, goat cheese, roasted squash and zucchini, tomatoes, marinated olives, grapes, pita.
You won’t want to miss dining at sunset at Oxbow Bar & Grill, steps from Luminary Hotel & Co. (Stephen Fries)
The seared cobia was perfectly cooked, a firm yet flaky fish with a mild flavor. It is simmered in a saffron aqua pazza (sauce), accompanied by zucchini, squash, tomatoes, quinoa and cous cous. For those who enjoy the punch of garlic, the cavatappi in roasted garlic alfredo sauce and broccoli is a good choice. The shape of the perfectly cooked pasta holds onto the indulgent sauce prepared with slow-roasted garlic.
The Mediterranean Board is served at the hotel’s Oxbow Bar & Grill and sits on the banks of the river. (Stephen Fries)
Ella Mae’s Diner is where both hotel guests and locals enjoy a classic Southern breakfast. The restaurant pays homage to the legacy of Fort Myers luminary Dr. Ella Mae Piper. Cheese grits, scrambled eggs, sausage gravy, crispy onions and a flaky and buttery biscuit make up the Southern Bowl, bringing together favorite flavors of the South.
If you enjoy smoked salmon, the Smoked Salmon Benedict is a twist on the classic, prepared with citrus cream cheese that pairs well with the smoked salmon, poached eggs and spinach, topping an English muffin, with a side of crispy home fries.
The coffee is not your typical run-of-the-mill diner coffee. Dean Street Coffee Roastery, located in the lobby of the hotel, roasts the beans for the coffee served in the hotel’s restaurants.
For quick bites, it’s Dean Street Coffee Roastery & Retail. You might be lucky enough to watch Ulli Winckler roasting the beans to perfection. You’ll know when the aroma permeates the lobby. Once you experience a cup, you might want to leave room in your suitcase for a pound or two of beans.
During this visit, time didn’t allow us to experience Chips Sports Pub, steps from Ella Mae’s Diner. Here, you’ll find light snacks, salads and sandwiches. Have fun with interactive simulators where you can play in the Topgolf swing suite. Enjoy golf, baseball pitching, hockey shots and other games while sipping on your favorite libation.
If your timing is right, you might want to attend a culinary workshop at The Workshop at Luminary Hotel & Co. It is a culinary theater with stadium-style seating where hands-on classes and demonstrations featuring local, regional and national chefs.
Between it all, take a dip in the pool, an oasis offering the perfect blend of sunshine and shade. Sip on craft cocktails all while soaking in the spectacular views of the river.
There’s a plethora of restaurants in Fort Myers. Bruno’s of Brooklyn serves up great Italian fare. (Chris Bartlett)
Growing up in Brooklyn, N.Y., Bruno’s of Brooklyn, https://www.brunosofbrooklyn.com, caught my attention and was recommended by several people.
There’s a plethora of restaurants in Fort Myers. Bruno’s of Brooklyn serves up great Italian fare. (Chris Bartlett)
The menu and ambiance reminded me of the beloved Italian restaurants my family frequented. We ordered the Caprese salad made with house-made mozzarella; shrimp scampi appetizer (enough to be a meal); and eggplant parmigiano doused with the signature zesty sauce, topped with golden browned parmesan and served over a generous portion of spaghetti.
Upon arrival, a stroll to stretch our legs and satisfy our first-time eyes excitement to see and explore landed us at Seed and Bean, https://seedandbeanmarket.com, a cannabis-focused cafe where great coffee and delectable desserts, local beer and vegan fare all seem to be given equal, loving care. Our cups of organic, dark roast with an unforgettable, giant hunk of house-made Pumpkin Cheesecake Brownie were heaven to our taste buds. Such a must stop!
Organic, dark roast with an unforgettable, giant hunk of house-made Pumpkin Cheesecake Brownie were heaven at Seed and Bean. (Chris Bartlett)
Our leisurely stroll took us by the bold and colorful windows of Lovegrove Studios, https://www.leomalovegrove.com, where dozens of vibrant, painted scenes on canvases of all sizes drew us in like moths to a flame. End result: we left with two smaller lithographs that asked to be taken home…
Enroute to Izzy’s Fish & Oyster, https://www.izzysftmyers.com, we passed by the captivating Gulf Coast Fudge Co., where Freak Shakes (Outrageous), seem to rule what people order. And yes, they are humongous with themed flavors like Death by Chocolate and Peanut Butter OMG!
Our dinner at Izzy’s, an attractive and beautifully appointed fish house, delivered freshness and flavor on everything we sampled from shrimp and grits to the red snapper that we chose to have prepared Far East style.
Having heard from a few local foodies that we needed to experience The Veranda, https://www.verandarestaurant.com, we made our way there for an after-dinner mocktail (a classic with a twist) and dessert (luscious key lime pie) since we had no time for a full meal. From the romantic piano bar, complete with a roaring fireplace, to the lush garden patio, this historic restaurant offers classic Southeastern fare and feels (and is) iconic to the culinary scene here.
We discovered an inviting breakfast spot called First Watch (phone number is 239-461-9765) while walking toward the incredibly fascinating Edison and Ford Estates, https://www.edisonfordwinterestates.org. From slab cut bacon to homemade golden cinnamon rolls, this place is a welcoming eatery. It feels like the place where locals connect over coffee, tea, terrific breakfast, and lunch offerings of all kinds. A new favorite!
After an educational tour, learning about Edison and Ford, their winter estates and how their passion for innovative engineering inventions drove the advances and progress that fueled the early growth of Fort Myers, we stopped by Cabos Cantina Taco & Tequila Bar, https://www.caboscantinafl.com, for a quick dessert order of sopapillas. They are so golden-warm, flaky and pillowy, complete with honey-drizzled, vanilla ice cream softy melting into the velvety indulgence. It was 100% a bright idea.
We simply had to have breakfast at Peter’s German Ice Cream & Coffee Shop (1412 Dean St, Fort Myers, Fla. 33901). And are we ever glad we did. With fabulous breakfast sandwiches bursting with perfect flavors and textures, impeccable service (so welcoming), excellent coffee and mouthwatering cakes for dessert, this place is a delight.
Next time we need to get their ice cream (even a flavor for dogs), which is a work of passion for the owner, according to his wife.
A sunset cruise with Renee and Todd, the powerhouse couple who co-founded and operate Off the Leash Charters, https://offtheleashcharters.com, was a huge highlight of our time in Fort Myers.
Their 30 seat, pontoon boat is the ideal way to tour and experience both the Caloosahatchee River and beyond. And with their experience in running events, there’s no shortage of themed public water outings. Find a day to book an experience with these passionate and capable, local, cruise operators. It’s an ideal escape and way to see the heart of the region from the perspective of its waterways.
Our final moments in Fort Myers found us serendipitously wandering into The Best Ice Cream Under the Sea Experience, https://besticecreamnear.com, which makes endless creative and scrumptious flavor combinations from scratch before your eyes, using liquid nitrogen like mad scientists to concoct the greatest, personalized ice cream treat in the land.
The lovely store manager shared some of their giggly popcorn that’s similarly frozen to add even-more chill to our extremely cool yet totally unexpected ice cream experience.
For more about Fort Myers, visit https://bit.ly/412hAIq and keep an eye out for the Worth Tasting 3-day Fort Myers culinary getaway, https://worthtasting.co.
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Gooey grilled cheese a toasty option when it’s cold outside
MacKenzie Smith judging the 2018 National Grilled Cheese Competition in Madison, Wis. (MacKenzie Smith)
You might have noticed that I’ve been on a comfort food theme these past few columns. Perhaps it’s because of the frigid weather that has been blanketing the Northeast as well as places that rarely experience unprecedented cold and snowy weather.
And what better way to embrace the cold than by enjoying a gooey grilled cheese sandwich with a steaming bowl of tomato or another of your favorite soups.
When it comes to sandwiches, grilled cheese reigns supreme. According to several sources, a grilled cheese sandwich is America’s favorite. A grilled cheese sandwich is simple, however if you’ve noticed, many restaurants have taken the humble favorite to another level. As you’ll see below, cookbooks share an endless variety of recipes for America’s beloved, favorite sandwich.
Pepperidge Farm commissioned a study that revealed:
• The average American adult eats 36 grilled cheese sandwiches a year (Minnesota is above the average, and highest at 41 sandwiches; Washington is the lowest at 24; Pennsylvania is 34.)
• 43% believe the bread-to-cheese ratio to be the most important component of a grilled cheese.
• White bread is the bread of choice for most (57%), trailed by sourdough (24%) and wheat (23%.)
• Top cheeses used, American (58%), cheddar (49%), pepper jack (18%)
• 52% cut the sandwich diagonally.
We all know and have experienced the simple pleasure both of preparing and enjoying the melty-golden perfection of two slices of bread paired with our favorite go-to or artisanal types of cheeses that we call a grilled cheese.
What many of us don’t know is that there are multiple cookbooks dedicated to the humble yet heralded iconic sandwiches. And books like “Grilled Cheese Social: Super Fun Recipes for Super Fun Times” by MacKenzie Smith (2019, Story Farm, $24.95), author and social media influencer, who seek to elevate these mighty sandwiches to include innovative and thoughtful ingredients.
These variations add an entirely new way to approach preparation and consumption of them.
Before I delve into recipes and MacKenzie’s delightful and practical book, I’m excited to share that I’ll be sitting down to interview her at Joy By The Sea in New Smyrna Beach, Fla., on March 9.
This cookbook author luncheon is open to the public and will be part of the Worth Tasting Weekend, which I’ll be co-hosting from March 7-10. Tickets for the luncheon are available at https://bit.ly/3Eg5G5M.
And if you’re looking to experience three days of everything food, check out Worth Tasting New Smyrna Beach at https://worthtasting.co/new-smyrna-beach.
Smith, a New Smyrna Beach local, is the creative force behind GrilledCheeseSocial.com. Food is her passion. Not only does she have nearly a million social media followers across multiple platforms, but she’s also a cookbook author, a two-time Food Network champion, former executive chef at Black Dolphin Inn and a globe hopping food and travel guide.
What started it all was celebrating the simple joy of a perfectly crafted grilled cheese sandwich. Fast forward 15 years… her infectious enthusiasm and keen eye for unexpected flavor combinations have garnered a dedicated following, eager to indulge in her inventive recipes and culinary adventures. Her book fits right into her mission… to share her love for comfort food and inspire others to explore the endless possibilities.
The first 20-plus pages bring the reader closer to knowing Mackenzie, and the “ABCheese of grilled cheesin.” Recipes are divided into breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert. Who said grilled cheese couldn’t be served as a dessert? Think Cookies + Cream Cannoli Grilled Cheese (recipe below), pound cake grilled cheese with fig jam and rosemary butter or strawberry cheesecake grilled cheese with cornflake crust.
The whimsical and quite entertaining, detailed headnotes embellish each recipe. Now, it’s time to get grilling those sandwiches with these recipes from the book. For the recipe for Seared Salami and Egg Grilled Cheese with Smoked Paprika Aioli, visit https://stephenfries.com/recipes.
Green Goddess Grilled Cheese: Spinach, Avocado, Feta Omelet on Whole Wheat
The headnote says: “Fresh spinach, creamy avocado, tangy feta and nutty white cheddar come together to make this breakfast grilled cheese perfectly healthy-ish. Sure, it’s no green juice, but this green goddess GC is made between two slices of whole wheat so it’s basically like you went to the gym. Eating one will leave you feeling fresh, energized and perhaps, even emotionally and physically satisfied!”
Ingredients:
1 pat salted butter, plus more for spreading
2 eggs, beaten
¼ cup feta cheese, crumbled
2 slices whole wheat bread
½ avocado, sliced
Salt and pepper
1 handful fresh baby spinach
2 slices white cheddar cheese
Directions:
Melt butter in a medium-size nonstick pan over medium heat. Add beaten eggs and swirl around for a minute or two to create an even surface. Cover, turn off the heat, and let cook for 2 minutes or until egg is cooked through. Remove from heat and fold the egg mixture in half, creating an omelet-like shape. Cut the omelet in half, widthwise, and set aside.
Add crumbled feta to one slice of bread and top with half the omelet, the sliced avocado with a sprinkle of salt and pepper, a handful of spinach, the other half of the omelet and the white cheddar. Place the other slice of bread on top and butter the exterior of the sandwich.
Place the sandwich in a medium-size pan or panini press and cook for a few minutes over medium heat or until both sides are golden brown, the white cheddar has melted and the feta has softened. Remove from heat, slice sandwich in half and serve immediately.
MacKenzie’s Classic Go-To Stretch-tastic Grilled Cheese with Muenster, Garlic Mayo and Salty Butter on Sourdough
The headnote says: “There’s something special about a classic no-frills grilled cheese that can zap you back to childhood. But you know me, I couldn’t just put any ol’ classic-style grilled cheese in the book. Instead, I’ve included this one that comes straight from flavor town. It’s creamy, garlicky and it’ll do that classic grilled cheese stretch like a freakin’ champ! Be sure to serve it with some tomato soup for dippin.”
Ingredients:
1 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon garlic paste
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 slices sourdough bread
4 slices Muenster cheese
2 pats salted butter
Directions:
Mix together mayonnaise, garlic paste and lemon juice and let sit for at least 10 minutes.Smear 1 tablespoon of the garlic mayo on each slice of bread and store the remainder in an airtight container for later use. Add Muenster cheese and close the sandwich so that both of the garlic aioli sides are facing inward.
Butter the exterior of the sandwich and place in a medium-size pan or panini press over medium heat. Cook for a few minutes on each side until bread is golden brown and cheese has melted. Let sit for 1 minute before serving.
Bacon-Wrapped Date Grilled Cheese Sliders
The headnote says: “You know that feeling that happens when you eat something that instantly concretes itself into your memory? That’s how I felt the first time I popped a devil on horseback into my mouth! If you’ve never had this before, it’s basically like a sweet, salty, sticky finger food made of bacon and pitted dates. Strangely enough, I was on a first date at the time it happened, and even though the date (the human, not the food) itself was totally forgettable (real talk, I actually can’t remember who I was with), this appetizer will always and forever be close to my heart, and has since remained my all-time favorite finger food.”
Ingredients:
3 slices regular bacon (not thick cut), cut in half
6 pitted dates
6 toothpicks
6 thin slices French baguette bread
½ cup Gorgonzola dolce (or regular Gorgonzola if you can’t find that), divided
3 pats salted butter
Directions:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Wrap a half slice of bacon around a pitted date and secure with a toothpick. Continue with the other 5 dates (or more, if you’d like extra!). Arrange them evenly on a baking sheet and bake for about 20 to 30 minutes, flipping halfway, or until bacon is cooked to the desired doneness — longer for crispy, less for soft. When done, remove toothpicks.
Make the grilled cheese sliders. Arrange baguette slices on a cutting board and evenly distribute Gorgonzola across all 6 slices. Top 3 of the slices with 2 bacon-wrapped dates each. Place the remaining 3 Gorgonzola-topped baguette slices on top (with cheese facing inward) and smear one pat of butter onto the exterior of each sandwich.
Transfer the buttered sliders to a heated, medium-size cast-iron skillet or panini press. Cook the sandwiches on each side, over medium heat, flipping if necessary, until the bread has crisped up and all the Gorgonzola has softened, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat; let sit for 1 minute before serving. Do not eat them all in one bite, even though you will be tempted to.
Cookies + Cream Cannoli Grilled Cheese
The headnote says: “I don’t know if you’ve grocery shopped at a Publix before (or if it’s the same in every grocery store across the country?), but can we take a minute to talk about the Oreo aisle? I’m always totally amazed at how large their section is and to be quite honest, it’s absolutely glorious. Back when I used to live in Brooklyn, and would visit my family in Florida, I would always make my mom take a picture of me against the Oreo display to show off how many varieties they had compared to the markets in NYC. I’m not joking when I say that it’s larger than life. They have about 50 varieties at any given time, and I’ve pretty much taste-tested them all and loved them … except the fireball-tasting one. Ick, that one was (expletive) gross. But anyway, now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s talk about this little cookies-and-cream number. 1. It’s perfect. 2. Feel free to swap it out for any Oreo you’d like (try the coconut ones OMG). And 3. You’re welcome.”
Ingredients:
4 Oreos, crushed
1 teaspoon confectioner’s sugar
⅓ cup ricotta cheese
½ cup cinnamon sugar (½ cup sugar mixed with 2 tablespoons cinnamon)
2 slices brioche bread
2 pats salted butter
Directions:
Combine crushed Oreos, confectioner’s sugar and ricotta in a small bowl and set aside. Place cinnamon sugar in a shallow dish and set aside.
Smear the Oreo-ricotta between the two slices of brioche and evenly smear the exterior with butter.
Heat a frying pan (or panini press) over medium-low heat; add the buttered sandwich. Cook for a few minutes, until the brioche is golden and the ricotta is heated throughout. Remove from heat and place the sandwich in the cinnamon sugar dish and carefully toss to coat on both sides. Serve immediately.
Recipes and images courtesy of
Book cover photo: (Christian Torres)
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Wing it for a Super Bowl party favorite
With the Super Bowl set for Feb. 9 in New Orleans, here’s a head start to help plan your party.
And though you might not be planning to have your eyes glued to the television for four hours, you may be planning a party or attending one, and still want to bring a Super dish.
I find it interesting that people, including my mom and dad, attend a party where dad watches the game, while mom mostly indulges in the food and catches up with her friends. Don’t get me wrong, dad will eat too!
Super Bowl Sunday is the second-biggest eating day of the year; it is only surpassed by Thanksgiving. And what has become the popular dish of that day … the humble-yet-mighty chicken wing.
According to the National Chicken Council’s 2024 Wing Report, https://bit.ly/3PKwCgp, 1.45 billion wings were eaten during last year’s celebrations. Will the consumption of wings for Super Bowl LIX surpass last year?
Teressa Bellissimo and her family founded the Anchor Bar in 1939 in Buffalo, N.Y., where Buffalo wings were invented in 1964. There are several tales as to its origins.
The Aug. 25, 1980, edition of The New Yorker magazine shares a story of the history of chicken wings.
The owner of the Anchor Bar told food writer Calvin Trillin: “Teressa Bellissimo came up with the recipe when a case of chicken wings was delivered instead of chicken backs and necks she used to make spaghetti sauce. Frank, Teressa’s husband, thought it was a shame to use the wings for sauce so his wife was given the task to make some hors d’oeuvres for the bar.”
Voila … the Buffalo chicken wing was invented.
There is no definitive answer as to why wings, aka Buffalo wings, are served with a celery stick with blue cheese dressing.
According to an online article in Time by Claire Suddath: “The wings were the brainchild of Teressa Bellissimo, who covered them in her own special sauce, and served them with a side of blue cheese plus celery, because that’s what she had available.”
The celery and dressing do cool off the palate from the heat of the hot sauce.
According to another tale, Dominic, the Bellissimos’ son, had several friends visit the bar, and Teressa, wanted to feed them an easy to make snack, so she fried the wings and tossed them in hot sauce. They were a big hit; thus, her newfound wings recipe became a regular menu item.
For some unknown reason, there is a connection between wings and the Super Bowl. Perhaps it is because it is a fun food to eat while cheering on your favorite team.
Wings can be prepared many ways — deep-fried, baked, grilled, sautéed and growing in popularity, smoked. The sky is the limit as to the flavors from the traditional buffalo sauce to parmesan coated, teriyaki and yes, chocolate sauce … think mole.
According to the National Chicken Council: “Cooking the whole bird was trendy in the 1960s and 1970s, but in the 1980s, U.S. consumers started preferring boneless-skinless breast meat, and wings became an inexpensive byproduct for chicken producers. Restaurants and bars realized they could charge low prices for the relatively inexpensive protein, and due to the spicy/salty nature of the sauce, they discovered that beer sales would go through the roof when customers ate wings.”
Research by the council shows:
• Americans are more likely to prefer eating bone-in, traditional wings (53%) than boneless wings.
• While there are a variety of wing sauces to choose from, BBQ (52%), ranch (46%) and buffalo/hot sauce (41%) are the preferred.
• French fries are by far the preferred side for wings (72%), distantly followed by celery (14%)
If you want to take your chicken wings to a new gourmet height, check out “Wings: 75 Tasty Recipes for Fried, Baked & Frilled Chicken” by Carol Hilker (2024, Ryland Peters & Small, $14.99)
Naturally, the classics are included, along with how wings are prepared by different cultures, recipes following new trends and wings that are light and aromatic. The chapter on sauces and dips will get your taste buds tingling. Now let’s get prepared for the big game part with these recipes from the book.
BROWN BUTTER & ROASTED RED PEPPER WINGS
The headnote says, “The addition of spicy roasted red pepper creates deliciously savory and slightly sweet chicken wings.”
Serves 4–6
Ingredients:
4 pounds chicken wings, halved at the joints, tips removed
6 tablespoons butter
1⁄3 cup roasted red (bell) pepper, chopped
1½ tablespoons brown sugar
1½ tablespoons garlic powder
1½ tablespoons chili powder
1½ tablespoons smoked paprika
2 teaspoons onion powder
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Roasted Red Pepper-Paprika Cream Sauce to serve (recipe below)
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees Line 2–3 baking sheets with foil.
Melt the butter in a large, deep saucepan over a medium-high heat until the butter browns but does not burn. Reduce the heat to low-medium and add the red (bell) pepper, brown sugar, garlic powder, chili powder, paprika and onion powder. Season to taste with kosher salt and ground black pepper and mix well.
Remove the pan from the heat. Add half the chicken wings to the pan, stir to coat with the butter mixture, then leave to infuse for about 5 minutes. Transfer the infused wings to a prepared baking sheet, then infuse the remaining wings and add them to another prepared baking sheet.
Bake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes, turning them halfway through, until the juices run clear when the thickest part is pierced to the bone. Serve with the Roasted Red Pepper-Paprika Cream Sauce.
ROASTED RED PEPPER-PAPRIKA CREAM SAUCE
Serves 4–6
Ingredients:
1⁄3 cup roasted red (bell) pepper, chopped
¼ cup goat cheese
2 tablespoons sour cream
1 tablespoon paprika
¼ teaspoon salt
Directions:
Mix all the ingredients in a blender until thoroughly combined and smooth. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
COLA WINGS
The headnote says, “Popular in the Southern states, these wings are basted and covered with a cola-based BBQ-style sauce.”
Serves 4–6
Ingredients:
4 pounds chicken wings, halved at the joints, tips removed
2 cups brown sugar (light or dark)
2 (11-ounce) cans cola or root beer
3 onions, chopped
2 shallots, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 tablespoons soy sauce
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
Pinch of salt
2 teaspoons cornstarch
Blue Cheese Dipping Sauce to serve (recipe below)
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees
In a medium bowl, combine the brown sugar, cola or root beer, onions, shallots, garlic, soy sauce, pepper and salt.
Place the wings in a large, deep casserole or roasting dish. Pour over the cola mixture. Bake in the preheated oven for 1½–2 hours or until the juices run clear when the thickest part is pierced to the bone. Turn the wings occasionally during cooking, to ensure they do not burn or brown too much.
Remove the wings from the dish and set aside.
Pour the cola mixture into a small pan and heat. Place the cornstarch in a small bowl, add some of the warm sauce, and mix to form a loose paste. Pour this back into the pan with the remaining sauce and cook over a low-medium heat until the sauce has thickened to the desired consistency. Toss the wings in the sauce and serve with Blue Cheese Dipping Sauce.
BLUE CHEESE DIPPING SAUCE
Ingredients:
1 cup crumbled blue cheese
¾ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
Directions:
Place the ingredients in a medium bowl and whisk until combined. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
Boneless Baked Chicken Fillets: “These ‘wings’ are bone-free, baked until crispy and served with a honey-chipotle sauce.” (Ryland, Peters and Small 2024)
BONELESS BAKED CHICKEN FILLETS
The headnote says: “This is for those who don’t like to deal with chicken bones — or those of you who eat pizza with a knife and fork! These ‘wings’ are bone-free, baked until crispy and served with a honey-chipotle sauce, although almost any sauce and marinade from this book would work well.”
Serves 4 –6
Ingredients:
4 pounds chicken tenders
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon salt
¾ cup butter, melted
¾ cup hot pepper sauce, such as Frank’s Red Hot Sauce
Honey-Chipotle Dipping Sauce to serve (recipe below)
Directions:
Line 2–3 baking sheets with foil, and lightly grease with cooking spray or vegetable oil.
Put the flour, cayenne pepper, garlic and salt in a resealable plastic bag and shake to mix. Add the chicken, seal the bag and toss until well coated with the flour mixture. Place the chicken on the lined baking sheets. Cover loosely with cling film/plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Whisk together the melted butter and hot sauce in a small bowl. Dip the chicken into the butter mixture, then place back on the baking sheets. Bake in the preheated oven for 25–30 minutes, until the chicken is crispy on the outside and the juices run clear when the thickest part is pierced to the bone. Turn the wings over halfway during cooking so they cook evenly. Serve with Honey-Chipotle Dipping Sauce.
HONEY-CHIPOTLE DIPPING SAUCE
Serves 4 –6
Ingredients:
1¼ cups runny honey
½ cup tomato ketchup
1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon ground chipotle chili powder
¾ teaspoon salt
Directions:
Combine all the ingredients in a medium saucepan with ½ cup water and bring to the boil over a medium-high heat. Reduce the heat once the mixture comes to the boil and let simmer for 3–5 minutes.
GENERAL TSO’S SLOW-COOKER WINGS
The headnote says: “Probably one of the most popular Chinese take-out dishes, General Tso’s chicken has a Chinese BBQ sauce, sweetened with a combination of garlic, honey and ginger. The marinade is thick and pairs perfectly with darker chicken meat. Baked in a slow cooker, the meat falls right off the bone.”
Serves 4–6
Ingredients:
4 pounds chicken wings, halved at the joints, tips removed
5 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
8 tablespoons runny honey
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
6 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes
9 ounces snow peas, cooked
Directions:
Place the chicken in a slow cooker.
Mix the remaining ingredients, except the sugar snap peas, in a bowl. Pour this mixture over the chicken and stir.
Cook on high for 3–5 hours (adjust according to your slow cooker’s settings, if necessary). Add the snow peas during the final 30 minutes of cooking and stir to coat with the sauce.
Tip: These wings go well with Ranch Dipping Sauce (recipe below)
RANCH DIPPING SAUCE
Serves 4-6
Ingredients:
1⁄3 cup mayonnaise or Greek yogurt
1⁄3 cup milk
1 teaspoon hot sauce or sriracha (optional)
RANCH SEASONING
Ingredients:
1⁄3 cup dried buttermilk or powdered milk
2 tablespoons dried parsley
1½ teaspoons dried dill
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoons dried onion flakes
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried chives
1 teaspoon salt
Directions:
Combine the ranch seasoning in a bowl. Put the mayonnaise or yogurt, milk and 1 tablespoon of the ranch seasoning in a small bowl and whisk to combine. Add the hot sauce for a Hot Pepper Ranch Dipping Sauce.
Note: 3 tablespoons of this ranch seasoning is the same as 1 packet of store-bought seasoning. Any unused seasoning can be stored in an airtight container.
Recipes ad images courtesy of
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Soup brings comfort in a bowl
Check out my latest column https://www.timesherald.com/2025/01/08/soup-brings-comfort-in-a-bowl/
From pho, borscht and mulligatawny to matzo ball, minestrone and avgolemono, there’s a soup tied to many cultures. These recipes are typically based upon the country’s available ingredients, geography and climate.
For example, beets are the main ingredient in borscht, a popular Eastern European soup. Beets are plentiful in places like Ukraine since the colder weather is conducive to growing the vegetable.
Here in the United States, many regions have a soup attached to them. Think gumbo (New Orleans), clam chowder (New England), Manhattan clam chowder (New York City) and pepper pot (Philadelphia).
The versatility, ease of preparation and the fact that it’s comfort in a bowl make soup a favorite, especially as we enter the colder months.
Did you know that in 1984, Campbell Soup Co. (you know, those iconic red and white cans) designated January as National Soup Month.
Making soup is an ideal way to use up leftovers such as vegetables, pasta, fresh herbs and proteins. Home cooks usually have a few soups in their repertoire, quite often ones that mom or grandma handed down, that bring back warm memories of days gone by.
For me it’s my grandmother’s trifecta of matzo ball, mushroom and barley and split pea. To this day, they are in my repertoire; her borscht, well, it’s not.
For those with little time on their hands, soup is the perfect meal served along with a freshly baked loaf of bread.
As the seasons change, soup ingredients and variety follow suit. Soups become lighter and are served cold or warm, with seasonal vegetables, etc.
Perfect for a hot summer day are gazpacho, icy watermelon soup or vichyssoise.
Soup is most often thought of as an appetizer or entrée. Most don’t think of it as a dessert. The cookbook featured below has two dozen soups to serve as a sweet ending to a meal. Strawberry soup with crème anglaise swirl or a spin on traditional peach melba (peach melba soup) with raspberry swirl and almond biscotti are two on my list to prepare when warmer weather arrives.
The Specialty Food Association said, “Unlike TikTok food trends, soup has staying power, and never really goes out of style.”
For me, soup cookbooks, don’t go out of style.
A recent addition to my collection is “300 Sensational Soups” by Carla Snyder and Meredith Deeds (2024, Robert Rose Inc., $24.95)
The title begins with stocks, the base of most soups.
The authors’ write: “In a perfect world, everyone would make soup with homemade stock. Stock made from scratch, with quality ingredients, can elevate a soup from simple to sublime. And the good news is, stocks are much easier to make than most home cooks think.”
When time is of the essence, it is suggested to purchase quality stocks and broth. Recipes for a variety of stocks are provided. From there, the chapters include vegetable, bean, cheese, meat lover, chicken and turkey, fish, chowders and chilled and dessert soups.
For those who enjoy exploring a world of soups, you’re covered with 50 soup recipes from around the world.
The all-encompassing book’s last chapter is called “Gilding the Lily: Toppings and garnishes.” Here you’ll find recipes for fried sage leaves, bacon croutons and fluffy dumpling batter among many others.
The authors said they think almost every soup benefits from a garnish. Each recipe has an interesting headnote and helpful tips. Some recipes provide a variation using a swap out ingredient.
Soup is one dish that can easily be reinvented. Take a recipe and experiment with different flavors and textures. It is easy to make a recipe gluten-free, vegetarian or vegan.
The authors said: “Soup is not just another meal — it’s comfort in a bowl, love on a spoon, satisfaction simmering on the stove. And all this goodness comes together so easily.”
So, get out that big soup pot and start out with these recipes from the book.
For the recipe for Arugula Soup With Salmon and Roasted Grape Tomatoes, visit bit.ly/40bEnB1.
And remember this quote from Marge Kennedy: “Soup is a lot like a family. Each ingredient enhances the others; each batch has its own characteristics; and it needs time to simmer to reach full flavor.”
Roasted Yellow Pepper Soup With Cilantro Cream
The headnote says: “Roasting the peppers gives this lovely golden soup a vibrant flavor. The green Cilantro Cream on top makes it as pretty as a picture.”
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup finely chopped shallots
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
6 roasted yellow bell peppers, coarsely chopped
5 cups chicken stock
Freshly squeezed lemon juice
Cilantro Cream (recipe follows)
Directions:
In a large pot, melt butter over medium-low heat. Add garlic, shallots, thyme, salt and pepper; sauté until shallots are softened, about 6 minutes. Add yellow peppers and stock;cover and simmer until peppers are very soft, 12 to 15 minutes.
Using an immersion blender, or in a food processor or blender in batches, purée soup until smooth, thinning with a little more stock, if necessary. Return to the pot, if necessary, and add lemon juice to taste. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
Ladle into heated bowls and top each with a dollop of cilantro cream.
Tip: If not using homemade chicken stock, be sure to purchase a low-sodium brand.
Cilantro Cream
Makes about 1 ¼ cups, enough to garnish 8 to 12 servings
Ingredients:
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
1 cup packed fresh cilantro, finely chopped
1 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
Pinch of salt
Directions:
In a small bowl, combine jalapeno, cilantro, sour cream, lime juice and salt. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
Coconut Curry and Shrimp Soup
The headnote says: “Thai red curry paste, which you can find in the Asian section of most grocery stores, is one of our favorite add-ins when we want to kick up the flavor in a soup. Here, we’ve used it to lend a punch to this rich and creamy coconut milk–based soup. Mushrooms and shrimp make it a meal, but it’s the wonderful balance of spicy, sweet and a little sour that keeps us coming back for more.”
Serves 6
Ingredients:
4 cups chicken stock
2 ½ tablespoons granulated sugar
2 ½ tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla)
1 ½ teaspoons Thai red curry paste
2 cans (each 14 ounces) unsweetened coconut milk
8 ounces mushrooms, sliced
1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1⁄3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
Whole fresh cilantro leaves
Directions:
In a large pot, bring stock, sugar, fish sauce and curry paste to a boil over medium heat; boil for 1 minute. Add coconut milk and return to a boil. Add mushrooms, reduce heat and simmer until tender, about 4 minutes. Add shrimp and simmer until pink and opaque, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in chopped cilantro and lime juice.
Ladle into heated bowls and garnish with whole cilantro leaves.
Succotash Sausage Soup
The headnote says: “Succotash is a favorite late-summer side dish. In this creamy soup, we’ve made it a meal by adding hearty kielbasa sausage.”
Serves 6 to 8
Ingredients:
¼ cup unsalted butter
1 pound kielbasa sausage, cut into thin half-moons
2 cups chopped leeks, white and light green parts only
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 large red bell pepper, finely chopped
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
6 cups chicken stock
2 cups frozen baby lima beans, thawed
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 can (14 ounces) cream-style corn
1 ½ cups fresh or frozen white corn kernels, thawed if frozen
½ cup whipping cream
Fresh thyme leaves
Directions:
In a large, heavy pot, melt butter over medium heat. Add sausage, leeks, garlic and red pepper; sauté until vegetables are softened and sausage is browned, about 6 minutes. Sprinkle with flour and thyme; sauté for 2 minutes.
Gradually whisk in stock. Add lima beans, salt and pepper; bring to a boil, stirring often. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until lima beans are tender, about 10 minutes. Add cream-style corn and corn kernels; simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in cream. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Reheat until steaming, stirring often. Do not let boil.
Ladle into heated bowls and garnish each with a few thyme leaves.
Tip: To trim leeks, cut off and discard the root end and the dark green tops (or save the tops for stock). Cut leeks lengthwise and wash under running water to remove any grit or dirt. Then cut as directed in the recipe.
Recipes and images courtesy of .....
(2024, Robert Rose Inc., $24.95)
Photos: (Colin Erricson)
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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Enjoying the warmth, comfort of winter food
Doughnuts with bourbon salted caramel (Photograph by Ian Wallace © Ryland Peters & Small)
n the days after the holidays another frenzy will begin, the returning and exchanging of gifts, scouting stores for huge after-holiday sales, as well as the annual planning and preparation for New Year’s Eve celebrations. For those who celebrate in the comfort of their homes or host a home party, this all-important menu, takes center stage.
After a comforting dinner, a ritual for many is, watching the famous midnight ball drop coupled with live entertainment from Times Square in New York City. Glued to the television for that ultimate moment when we’ll be saying goodbye to 2024 and toasting to a happy, healthy and prosperous 2025.
As I write this column, the temperature is in the single digits, and I’m peering out at a few deer as they prance through the snow in our front yard. The warmth and comfort of winter food is on my mind, as I, too, think about New Year’s Eve at home, savoring a warm hearty meal, beginning with a comforting soup, and the “required” sweet ending with a decadent dessert before midnight. Add a hot chocolate topped with mini marshmallows; and it reminds me that there is pleasure even in the severest of winters. Especially in cold climates, we enjoy meals that evoke feelings of coziness and togetherness.
Slow-cooked casseroles, roasted root vegetables, melty fondue, and a pie bubbling in the oven, not only warm up the home, but these aromas tantalize our taste buds for all the goodness of what is yet to come.
This excerpt from the introduction to “A Cookbook for Winter: More than 95 Nurturing & Comforting Recipes for the Colder Months (2024, Ryland Peters & Small, $30) captured my attention. It is exactly how I feel when the mercury dips.
“Embracing winter cooking is also perhaps more than just adjusting our diets to colder weather. It’s a time when meals become more than just sustenance; they turn into moments of connection and warmth shared with loved ones around the table. As the frost blankets the world in its serene white, the pleasure of eating together becomes a cherished ritual.”
With recipes for hearty soups and snacks, fondues, and fireside suppers, one pots and pies, winter salads, desserts, plus hot and cold seasonal beverages, including non-alcoholic (I’ll be making the pumpkin latte); we can beat the cold and frosty days and be well-nourished while savoring each meal.
Get started with these recipes from the book. For the recipe for Doughnuts with Bourbon Salted Caramel visit bit.ly/3Bx9lvf
Roasted Garlic Soup (Photograph by Alex Luck © Ryland Peters & Small)
Roasted Garlic Soup
Recipe by Hannah Miles
The headnote says, “As everyone knows, garlic can have quite a pungent taste, but when it is roasted it softens and caramelizes and takes on the wonderfully earthy notes of forest walks and mushrooms. If you want, you can add mushrooms as well to give the soup more body. Don’t be scared about using four whole bulbs of garlic here!”
Ingredients
1 ½ tablespoons olive oil
2 large onions, finely chopped
¼ cup brandy
4 cups vegetable stock
freshly squeezed juice of ½ lemon
ROASTED GARLIC
a large sprig of fresh rosemary
a few sprigs of fresh thyme
strips of zest from 1 lemon
4 whole garlic bulbs
olive oil, to drizzle
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Start by making the roasted garlic. Place the rosemary, thyme and lemon zest strips in a roasting pan and put the four whole garlic bulbs on top of the herbs. Drizzle the bulbs with a good drizzle of olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
Roast in the preheated oven for 25–30 minutes until the bulbs feel soft inside when you press them. Leave to cool.
Once the garlic bulbs are cool, cut them in half with a sharp knife and squeeze out the garlic, which will be creamy and paste like.
Discard all the garlic skins, making sure that no skin is left in the garlic paste. Reserve some of the roasted thyme to garnish the soup and discard the other herbs and the zest.
For the soup, heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a medium heat and fry the onions in the oil until soft and translucent and starting to caramelize. Add the garlic purée and cook for a few minutes more. Add the brandy and cook until it is almost evaporated, then add the stock and lemon juice, bring it to a simmer and then cook over a low heat for about 10 minutes.
Using a stick blender, blender or food processor, blitz the soup until smooth, or use a stick blender. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and then serve in bowls with the reserved sprigs of roasted thyme to garnish.
Serves 4
Tip: If you prefer a thicker texture soup you can add 2 peeled and cubed potatoes with the stock and simmer until the potatoes are soft.
Ploughman’s Fondue (Photograph by Ian Wallace © Ryland Peters & Small)
Ploughman’s Fondue
Recipe by Louise Pickford
The headnote says, “A traditional ploughman’s lunch is usually made up of a hunk of fresh bread, cheese, ham and pickles, accompanied by an obligatory pint of fine draught beer. This recipe is a homage to those good old days of pub grub eatenaround a roaring log fire after a brisk walk in the country. Use a mature Cheddar, or even an aged Cheddar (look for a cheese of around 6 months in age), but make sure it isn’t too hard and crumbly.”
Ingredients:
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 pound 2 ounces mature Cheddar, grated
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
2/3 cup beer – something with full flavor
2 tablespoons organic apple juice
2 teaspoons English mustard
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
a few drops of Tabasco sauce
ham slices, pickled onions, cherry tomatoes, lettuce, radishes, spring onions/scallions, white country loaf, to serve
fondue pot and tabletop burner
Directions:
Rub the inside of your fondue pot with the garlic clove, reserving any left over for use in another dish. Combine the Cheddar and flour in a bowl, making sure the flour is well dispersed throughout the cheese.
Place the beer and apple juice in the fondue pot on the stovetop and bring to the boil. Simmer for 1 minute, then gradually stir in the cheese mixture until melted.
Add the mustard and Worcestershire sauce and continue stirring until you have a lovely creamy consistency. Finally add a few drops of Tabasco.
Transfer the fondue to the tabletop burner and serve with a platter of the ploughman’s accompaniments.
Serves 4.
Pasta e Fagioli (Photograph by Ian Wallace © Ryland Peters & Small)
Pasta e Fagioli
Recipe by Louise Pickford
The headnote says, “This is an Italian pasta and bean dish (fagioli meaning bean in Italian), cooked in a rich tomato sauce and served topped with grated Parmesan. It is a hearty dish, more a stew than a soup. As well as a good grating of fresh Parmesan, it is lovely drizzled with a fruity extra virgin olive oil. Start this recipe a day ahead.”
Ingredients:
1 ¼ cups dried cranberry or cannellini beans
2 onions
1 bay leaf
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
5 ½ ounces pancetta or smoked bacon, rind removed, diced
1 large carrot, diced
1 large potato, diced
2 sticks of celery, diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 teaspoons freshly chopped thyme
1 teaspoon freshly chopped rosemary
1 (14-ounce) can strained tomatoes
2 tablespoons tomato paste
7 ounces Ditali pasta
1–2 tablespoons freshly chopped basil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
freshly grated Parmesan and a little extra virgin olive oil, to serve a quart Dutch oven
Directions:
A day ahead, place the beans in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Leave to soak overnight.
The next day, drain and rinse the beans and place in the Dutch oven. Add plenty of cold water to cover the beans by at least 4 inches.
Cut 1 onion in half and add to the pan with the bay leaf.
Bring the water to a rolling boil, then simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes or until the beans are al dente.
Drain the beans, reserving 5 cups of the liquid but discarding the onion and bay leaf.
Finely chop the remaining onion. Heat the olive oil in the pan over a medium heat and fry the pancetta for 3–4 minutes until crisp and golden.
Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Add the chopped onion, carrot, potato, celery, garlic, herbs and salt and pepper to the pan and fry over a medium heat for 10 minutes until softened slightly, stirring occasionally to prevent them sticking.
Add the cooked beans, passata, tomato purée, and reserved cooking liquid.
Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer over a low heat for 30 minutes until the sauce is thick and rich.
Stir the pasta and reserved pancetta into the pan, return to a gentle simmer and cook for a final 10–12 minutes until the pasta is al dente.
Stir in the basil and season to taste.
Spoon into individual soup bowls and top each one with Parmesan and olive oil. Serves 6.
Recipes and images courtesy of
“A Cookbook for Winter: More than 95 Nurturing & Comforting Recipes for the Colder Months” (2024, Ryland Peters & Small, $30)
Stephen Fries, is professor Emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College, in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. [email protected] For more, go to stephenfries.com
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‘Tis the season for baking cookies
Check out my latest column
It was back in 1987 that Dec. 4 was designated as National Cookie Day, the day cookie enthusiasts across the United States celebrate this favorite treat. Although the date has passed, it deserves recognition as cookie baking season is here.
And it’s never too late to celebrate this favorite treat. Some think December should have been designated National Cookie Month rather than October.
There are a few thoughts as to why October; it starts getting colder, and what better way to warm up the home than with the aroma of cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves permeating the house; the National Day Calendar says, “This month you can start prepping your metabolism for the holiday season by indulging in cookies of any kind…”
The day is celebrated in many ways, including people getting together, each baking a couple of different types of cookies, followed by mixing and matching their creations. Cookie swaps also are popular, where each person brings their already baked cookies in a large enough quantity to swap, participants then sample the treats and exchange with others, quite often packaging them in nicely decorated boxes.
National Cookie Day could not be celebrated on a better date, as it is the perfect time avid bakers and those once a year bakers dig out their cookie-making gear, those tattered and food-stained recipe cards and clippings, light up the oven and begin their nonstop cookie baking.
Of course, some holiday music playing in the background adds to the mood. The results; fun times with family and friends, and of course, the tantalizing aroma from freshly baked cookies.
Whether they are Italian sprinkle cookies, Pizzelles, Germany’s popular Pfeffernusse cookies, Canada’s Nanaimo bars or Norwegian Fattigmann, aka poor man’s cookie, we all have a favorite. Perhaps it is simply too difficult to choose just one.
There are articles about Christmas cookies published on many websites. Delish.com shares the cookie that each of the 50 states shows an allegiance to.
It says: “Many of the more outlandish cookies are rooted in tradition, local restaurant recipes, and what crops and ingredients are seasonal during the holidays. What cookies do you always see local bakeries churning out come December?”
For example, Pennsylvania’s most popular…. According to the article, “Back in the 1700s, German settlers in parts of Pennsylvania first introduced the country to traditional sugar cookies, a simple recipe that kicked off the tradition of cookie decorating.”
On the other hand, Bettycrocker.com, Evite.com and Marthastewart.com state that peanut butter blossoms are the most popular Christmas cookie in Pennsylvania. Do you agree with the first website or the latter three?
According to Monmouth University’s America’s Favorite Cookie poll, 32% of the people said frosted sugar cookies, 12% gingerbread, 11% chocolate chip. Only 4% favored peanut butter. No matter which cookie is favored, we’re always looking for additions to our repertoire of holiday cookies.
For inspiration, check out “Christmas Cookies: More than 60 Cute Recipes for Fun Festive Bakes,” with an introduction by Hannah Miles (2024, Ryland, Peters & Small, $18.99). Along with recipes for beautiful cookies, the book includes pointers on how to host a cookie swap, and party themes for the get-together.
The Round the World Cookie Party sounds like fun, plus it is educational at the same time: “Give each of your guests a different country as their theme, and then each person brings a traditional cookie from that country.”
Decorating the room with flags and items from the countries adds to the party’s ambience.
How about a Secret Santa Cookie Party: ”If you fancy challenging your friends, give them each a secret recipe to bake for the party, or get everyone to provide a recipe, then swap them for another person to bake and bring along.”
Packaging and display ideas will bring the festivities up a notch. For those fearful of icing and decorating cookies, the step-by-step instructions will take the fear away. Now, light up the oven, put on holiday music and let’s get baking with the recipes below from the book.
Many of you might not have the time or desire, or you may have a small kitchen not conducive for baking large amounts of cookies. These companies are my favorites. Cheryl’s, https://www.cheryls.com; Bell’s, https://www.bellscookies.com; and Fairytale Brownies, https://www.brownies.com
They’ll bake, package and ship cookies and treats to you or those on your gift list.
Reindeer Cookies (Photo: Steve Painter – Ryland, Peters and Small)
Recipe by Hannah Miles
These little reindeer would make any Christmas party a jolly event — they have pretzel antlers and chocolate peanut noses — perfect for guiding Santa on his way! You can use any type of pretzel or chocolate peanut nose, and just give one a red nose for the hero Rudolph!
Makes 18
Ingredients:
Scant 2 ½ cups self-rising flour
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup superfine sugar
1 ½ sticks butter
3 heaped tablespoons golden/light corn syrup
36 pretzels
17 sugar-coated chocolate peanuts plus 1 red one for Rudolf
1 ounce white chocolate, broken into pieces
1 ounce bittersweet chocolate, broken into pieces
3 baking sheets, greased and lined with baking parchment
2 piping/pastry bags, fitted with small round nozzles/tips
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Sift the flour, cocoa powder and baking soda into a bowl. Stir in the sugar. In a saucepan, heat the butter and syrup until the butter has melted. Stir the syrup mixture into the flour and whisk/beat until the dough comes together.
Divide the dough into 18 pieces and place them in small mounds on the baking sheets, leaving space between them. Press each cookie down to flatten them.
Bake in the preheated oven for 5 minutes, then remove from the oven and press two pretzels into each cookie for the antlers. Using a clean cloth press each cookie down. Return to the oven and bake for a further 5–7 minutes. Remove from the oven and immediately press one sugar-coated chocolate peanut into each cookie for the nose. Leave the cookies to cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes, then, using a spatula, transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely.
Place the white and bittersweet chocolate into two separate heatproof bowls and rest each bowl over a pan of simmering water. Heat until the chocolate has melted. Leave to cool slightly, then spoon into the piping/pastry bags.
Pipe two small circles of white chocolate onto each cookie as eyes and then pipe a smaller dot of dark chocolate onto the white chocolate for the pupils. Leave to cool completely until the chocolate has set.
The cookies will store for up to 5 days in an airtight container.

Chocolate Chip Biscotti (Photo: William Reavell – Ryland, Peters and Small)
Recipe by Linda Collister
Crisp, crunchy chocolate Italian biscotti studded with chunks of dark chocolate and pecans — lovely with ice cream as well as hot drinks in the winter.
Makes about 36
Ingredients:
3 extra-large eggs
1 ¼ cups light brown muscovado sugar
Fnely grated zest of 1 orange
1 stick butter, melted
2 1/3 cups all-purpose flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting
1 tablespoon baking powder
¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 cup pecan pieces
3 ½ ounce bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 baking sheets, lined with baking parchment
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Put the eggs, sugar and orange zest in a large mixing bowl and whisk/beat with a hand-held electric whisk until very frothy. Whisk/beat in the melted butter. Sift the flour, baking powder and cocoa into the bowl and mix with a wooden spoon. Mix in the pecans and chopped chocolate until thoroughly combined.
On a flour-dusted surface, divide the dough into 2 equal portions. Using well-floured hands, lift a portion of dough onto each prepared sheet and shape into a brick of about 12 x 3 inches as they will spread in the oven. Bake in the preheated oven for 25–30 minutes until just firm. Turn off the oven and remove the sheets and leave to cool completely.
When ready to continue, reheat the oven to 350 degrees. Using a serrated bread knife, slice the logs (still on the sheets) on the diagonal about 3/8 inch thick. Put, cut-side down, on the sheets and return to the oven. Bake for 10 minutes until crisp and dry.
Remove the sheets from the oven, transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool completely.
The biscotti will store for up to 3 weeks in an airtight container.
Swedish Pepper Cookies (Photo: William Reavell – Ryland, Peters and Small)
Recipe by Linda Collister
Traditionally made for the Christmas holidays, these dark spicy cookies can be left plain or decorated with white icing — you can use ready-made icing writing pens for this.
Makes about 15
Ingredients:
1 ½ cups all-purpose flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
Grated zest of 1 orange
¾ cup superfine sugar
1 stick butter, chilled and diced
1 egg
1 tablespoon black molasses
Star-shaped cutter
3 baking sheets, greased
Directions:
Put all the ingredients in a food processor and blend until the mixture forms a soft dough.
When thoroughly combined, remove the dough from the processor, shape into a ball and wrap in clingfilm/plastic wrap. Chill in the fridge until firm for about 1 hour.
Remove the dough from the fridge, unwrap and roll out on a lightly floured work surface until about ¼ inch thick. Dip the cookie cutter in flour and cut out shapes, re-rolling as necessary. Arrange the cookies on the baking sheets, leaving space between them, and chill in the fridge for 10 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Bake in the preheated oven for 10–12 minutes until dark golden brown and firm. Remove from the oven and leave to cool for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
The cookies will store for up to 1 week in an airtight container.
Recipes courtesy of “Christmas Cookies: More than 60 Cute Recipes for Fun Festive Bakes,” with an introduction by Hannah Miles, 2024, $18.99 (Ryland, Peters and Small)
Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.
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