#this week i did this vietnamese chicken and rice noodle salad

[tortoisebore]

what is your favorite kind of soup. the gods above called me to ask you this question yes it is relevant etc etc

THIS IS MY FAVORITE QUESTION EVER

u are going to regret asking me this ro because not ONLY do i love to cook and i make 95% of my meals from scratch at home but ALSO soup is my favorite thing to make ((i love it so much that the only things i asked for for christmas this year were one (1) dutch oven for my soups and one (1) immersion blender for my soups))

OKAY so i experiment a lot with soups and i make a bunch of different ones based off of recipes i like but my top three are as follows:

1 - chili. u can’t go wrong with chili. it’s better in the crock pot & i just let that sucker stew on low for like nine hours and then it’s chili o’clock for a week straight. i do like four different kinds of beans: pinto, black, kidney, and chili. sometimes garbanzo or great northern or even some lentils if i’m feeling it. i do ground turkey sometimes but tbh it’s just as good vegetarian. lots of diced tomatoes lots of spices. cayenne and chili powder and cumin and garlic (fresh and powder) and onion (fresh and powder) and fresh japalenos, sharp cheddar, cilantro, and green onions to top

2 - i’m an absolute WHORE for zucchini and i’ve made my own version of this zucchini & tomato soup that’s so insane i make it like once every six weeks. it’s diced zucchini and onions and diced fresh romas, super soupy so lots of veggie broth, throw in some ground spicy italian sausage and top it with fresh grated parm, parsley, and chili flakes. INSANE. crusty bread on the side if you’re feeling fancy bc it’s not the most filling on its own

3 - guess what, MORE ZUCCHINI. every late summer when corn is in season i go to the farmer’s market and get me like ten ears of fresh corn. i shuck those bitches and cut all the corn off and make this creamy zucchini and corn chowder. lots of broth lots of onions and fresh veggies and top that shit with some smoked paprika, ground cayenne and parsley. it makes like twelve servings so i freeze half of it and get back into it a few weeks later it’s SO GOOD but i takes like three hours to make so i only do it once a year fjffhfnfh

[teenagecreatorpainter]

10 Fundamentals About Black Rice Near Me You Didn't Learn In School

Lots of, many years in the past, when the first explorers and migratory persons roamed the earth, they observed how and what each other ate. Because they moved about, they shared meals, borrowed some Suggestions, and brought them home to switch to their own tastes and environment. As men and women's cultures produced and changed, so did the categories of foods they ate.

By way of example, in North The usa we like our substantial bowls of pasta for evening meal, but in Italy it is often just one compact ingredient of The full meal. In a few areas of Asia, noodle dishes tend to be highly regarded likewise. Usually the noodles are comprised of rice or egg, which include Malaysian mee goreng and Cantonese chow mien, and are sometimes elements of soup or fried following boiling.

Rice can be quite a major food with vegetables and meat additional and steamed ideal into it, which include Indian Biryani. There is certainly also fried rice in a few of the other Asian countries or yummy beans and rice in Cuba. Rice is frequently eaten plain as a aspect dish, or with flavouring additional as in North American cooking.

Soups are A different variant that extend from crystal clear broths, to wealthy meaty stews like Hungarian goulash, Vietnamese noodle soup, or perhaps the North American favourites of chili con carne and New England clam chowder.

Breads--where by to start? Mmmmmm.....bread. A number of my favourites incorporate Center Japanese pita bread, Indian naan created inside of a clay tandoor oven, and Italian focaccia. My close friends really like my garlic cheese biscuits, just like a certain well-known seafood chain, and my Mother's do-it-yourself bread. I don't possess a bread maker, but I do know individuals that swear by these to help make all sorts of doughs and baked goods.

Greens which have been eaten in salad or cooked like a side can really differ according to what on earth is regionally and seasonally accessible. If you are thinking about striving Thai food items, they generally include eco-friendly mango or papaya in salad. In North The usa individuals really like their a lot of http://edition.cnn.com/search/?text=black rice selections for greens for instance spinach, arugula, sprouts, and differing kinds of lettuce. Options for baking, sauteing, steaming, frying, and grilling veggies are countless.

Fruit also varies a lot from position to place. With the advent of genetic engineering, the appearance, texture and taste of fruits like bananas and tomatoes from place to nation are Practically limitless. I can style a tremendous difference between my backyard garden's beefsteak tomatoes, as well as hothouse tomatoes I purchase from your supermarket, which have been shipped up with the U.S. inside the winter. When touring to hotter climates, I love to take in refreshing mango, papaya, pineapple, pomegranate and guavas. Even though they won't be as new, you could find Many of these fruits at your local grocery stores in North The us, buy one and provides it a try this week.

Meat continues to be a well known staple item in some cultures, and also a luxury product in other cultures for many years. Dependant upon where you reside, different meats are very fashionable; including pork in China, and goat and lamb in India. There are various preferred meats in North The usa, but definitely beef and chicken are Amongst the most chosen. Meat may be put on a spit and roasted about a hearth, baked, grilled in a North American barbecue, cooked inside of a slow cooker, stir fried, or seafood become Japanese sushi or sashami, just to call a few choices.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/N6C8OlWtrfs/hqdefault_578866.jpg

Cheeses are A further superb creation that fluctuate so much depending upon the variety of milk, procedure used to really make it, and what's extra into them. On the recent vacation towards the Canary Islands, we appreciated scrumptious fried manchego cheese within a moho rojo sauce. Though in Indian cooking, the handmade, paneer cheese is very talked-about. Several of my other favourites involve Greek feta, Italian mozzarella balls, and great outdated North American sharp cheddar.

Hopefully this article has served to highlight several of the reocurring themes in foods from throughout the world. The spices, ways of planning, and local choices might be different, though the foodstuff groups are pretty identical--and the probabilities are countless.

As promised, I will publish extra comprehensive content Sooner or later about ideas for taking in and cooking new foods, and eventually begin posting some recipes. Meanwhile, feel free to complete a Google lookup to the names of any with the foods outlined if you are keen on finding out more details black rice price per kg on what they are or what is actually in them.

Each individual personal has often been exceptional and one among A form, each has thoroughly various preferences and Choices in all type of matters, may or not it's in clothes or style design, tastes in movies books, and especially in food items. Foodstuff Tastes rely on the region they originated at. It is usually that Chinese are keen on their own individual Chinese delicacies; Italian folks are into pastas and pizzas, and lots of extra.

Nonetheless, there are actually tendencies when individuals decide to a little something new, anything distinct that would tingle their flavor buds, that may be why delicacies from diverse aspects of the entire world are created obtainable in other nations far too. Chinese foods are well known for his or her Uncooked elements, sushi, sashimi, plus the like; Italian foodstuff distribute everywhere in the world as a lot of people love pastas, and pizzas; then, There is certainly Indian delicacies. Indian foods are recognized for its spices, the delicacies have distinctive style and very flavourful mainly are also very hot and spicy. So, for many who want their flavor buds to receive fiery, Indian food is the best choice.

If 1 hasn't tasted Indian foodstuff but, be greater prepared of how it could make you are feeling soon after the primary bite. A lot of Indian foods are spicy, so for people who can't tolerate incredibly hot food stuff, better brace you. Also, due to the load of spices in a single delicacy, the flavour is probably not unique as you are going to encounter levels of preferences, As a result the taster should prepare himself from the practical experience. With India owning a diverse society along with a colourful assortment of traditions, There is certainly also a unique difference between Each and every regions and often, just one recipe should have a particular strategy for cooking in Every single area, having a slightly variation to style for each which will depend on the group of folks's desire. Indian Delicacies on the other hand is recognized for its being pretty flavourful and spicy.

For those who haven't tried out Indian food items yet, and are prepared to expertise this type of delectable celebration, the ideal recipe to try initially is actually a recipe of curry. Curry is rather popular plus a trademark of Indian cuisine and getting tasted it will verify an Indian component. Curry may possibly are available in different approaches to be cooked and frequently, This is a spicy dish, So the initial taster have to enable himself with this and be ready for your hotness and tingling sensation Later on.

Curry is filled with flavour and provides a layer of preferences, so Should you be up for this kind of food items, then one particular wouldn't regret opting for Indian foodstuff. Indian delicacies are also known for their kebabs, so, for meat enthusiasts and grill enthusiast, kebab could be a first preference, it offers loads of flavour as well, and it really is protein abundant. This dish may also arrive in a number of tips on how to be cooked, but essentially, this involves meat, may perhaps or not it's lamb, pork of beef. Lamb kebab is well known in India and is also sought after because of the travellers, so, test possessing this one particular and you may undoubtedly check with for more. Indian foods is about variation, spices and flavour. It'll provide the taster, a very unique expertise on the table.

[barefootbeautician]

Motorbiking across Vietnam!

The good, the bad and the weather.

If you have decided you want to motorbike Vietnam, woo go you! This is an amazing experience but WOW was it hard physically and mentally. Motorbikes are a part of life in this country with over 30 million taking up the roads. This was my first time ever riding a motorbike and believe me, if you can ride a bike here, you can ride one anywhere in the world!

While cruising the highway we saw some very interesting sights; from families of five on one bike, to a massive cage of ducks coming off every part of a bike! How they balance all the different things on these small bikes amazes me.

Riding in Vietnam is not for the faint hearted, there seems to be little to no rules on these roads. Green light means go, amber still go and the count down from 5 on the red light still means go. There is no right of way on a roundabout with people honking left, right and centre for you to move! However honking is a normal thing here, it usually means "I'm about to overtake you" or "I'm next to you so don't turn". It scared the hell out of me when a massive truck honked something sounding like a fog horn next to me, while overtaking a bus going into incoming traffic. I have many memories of almost being squashed so being alert and remember to move out the way is the best advice. They are a lot bigger and don't seem to care about you on your small bike.

Rent or buy a motorbike

I believe this is a personal preference whether to buy or rent your mighty steed. We opted for renting as the company we went for were great! It was so easy to rent it in Hanoi and drop it off in Ho Chi Minh. The guy was great throughout our trip and let us know the best places to do bike services down the country. It was also very nice not to have to worry about selling the bike at the end, we were on quite a tight schedule so being able to just leave the bike and get our deposit back, was one less thing to stress about. The only slight set back is you do have a set date to give the bike back by so make sure you give yourself enough time to make it all the way down and not have to rush. The fee varies from company to company so just read the small print and make sure you get the bike back in time and all will be good.

Saying all of this, in the backpacker areas, bikes are easy to find and cheap to buy. So if you want one you can decorate and call your own, then this is a great thing to do. Make sure you have your paper registration (blue card) when buying a bike. You will need this to sell the bike and it's your proof of ownership if you get stopped at road blocks. Just remember to test drive a few first and make sure everything works. Repairs are cheap along the way, but it won't be fun to break down in the middle of a highway.

Whether you buy or rent your bike always remember to name it! Makes it more fun:) In the picture above you will see our mighty steeds- Ronald and Wilson.

Accommodation

We never had trouble finding places to crash for a night or two. We used hostels, Airbnb and couchsurfing. We loved couchsurfing, it was a great way to stay with locals and learn more about the culture. We always booked a day ahead as it was nicer to know we had somewhere to rest after a long day of driving. Mixing up your budgets is good too, so if we did couchsurfing for a few nights, we would splurge a bit on our next place. When I say splurge, it never broke the bank as all accommodation is pretty cheap.

Food and coffee

Phò

This had to be one of my favourite dishes! After a long ride in the ice cold rain, this hot noodle soup was perfect and tasted delicious. It's eaten at any time of day but mainly for breakfast. It's a very light but filling meal consisting of light beef broth flavoured with ginger and coriander, flat rice noodles, spring onions and slivers of raw beef that cook in the broth. It's so yummy!

Banh Mi

What a magical sandwich! The best place we had one was in Hoi An. This baguette sandwich is filled with crunchy salad, pork pate, slow roasted pork and sriracha sauce. There are different meat fillings but the pork was my favourite. Super filling and full of amazing flavour.

Goi cuon

One of Vietnams most favourite dishes. Translucent spring rolls packed with greens, coriander and various combinations of minced pork, shrimp or crab. You can also dip them in fish sauce which really adds to the flavour of these delicious rolls!

The motorcycle trip

Starting in the busy centre of Hanoi we took 4 weeks to ride down the coast to Ho Chi Minh. Through winding roads, freezing rain, busy highways and bright sunshine. Unfortunately for us, it rained 3 weeks out of the 4 which wasn't fun on a motorbike. We went through alot of ponchos, a rain coat and pants, bin bag under layers for warmth and plastic bags for our feet, as you can imagine, they were some very attractive outfits.

I'm not going to write every place we visited as some were only for one night to rest our tired heads. We started in Hanoi so the places will be in order from top to bottom. So I'll just be writing the places with the best memories:)

Hanoi

The capital city of Vietnam, the starting or finishing point for many Vietnam motorbike itineraries. I would suggest staying in the Old quarter ( Hoan Kiem) as it’s always busy with tourists and locals. It’s ideal for backpackers who want to be close to it all, eat great authentic food and enjoy the nightlife. However we were not very clued up when it came to staying here and unfortunately booked an Airbnb way out of the happening area. It was very interesting trying to order food at a Vietnamese restaurant where there was no English on the menu and no one spoke English. It made for a fun guessing game trying to not order chickens feet!

Ha Long Bay

There are so many boat cruises in this place to take you around the hundreds of freestanding islands. We went on a 2 day boat tour which included food, alcohol and a bed for the night. On this tour we got to walk around in a massive cave, checkout a floating pearl farm and climb to the top of one of the islands to see an amazing view. This is definitely worth doing however there are thousands of tourists which kind of takes the magic away and unfortunately we had rain the whole time. There wasn't much else to do in Ha Long bay for us, so we left after a couple days and carried on our adventure south.

Journey from there to Hue was pretty boring for us. All the rain, evil bed bugs and very long cold rides. Nothing worth chatting about but it finally looked up from Hue.

Hue

FINALLY SEEN SUNSHINE!! I was starting to forget what blue sky looks like and the feeling of sun on my skin. We only spend one night here and found it pretty cool. The food and coffee was really good and the bars were fun. Only thing that annoyed us was a crazy amount of people on bikes trying to sell you cannabis, obviously say no because most of them work with the police to catch people.

Da Nang

Loved Da Nang! Full of history, good food and beautiful views. The Hai Van Pass, which was made famous by an episode of Top Gear, is a definite must! Beautiful winding roads and incredible ocean views make it any motorbikers dream.

Once you've finished with this amazing drive, The Golden Bridge was awesome to see! The best time to go is as soon as it opens at 8am so you miss the massive rush of tourists and tour groups which is about 10 a.m onwards. There are so many people on the bridge it takes away the splendor of it. Also when you go early, you will most likely see loads of brides and grooms taking beautiful wedding pictures which was nice to see.

The cable car ride up to the bridge is one of the longest in the world and it's so much fun! Breathtaking views the whole way up and if you do go early, you usually get the cart to yourself.

Another must do is The Marble Mountains. These amazing mountains are full of tunnels, caves and Buddhist shrines just waiting to be explored! If you have plenty of energy and love a good mission, you can climb to the summit of one of the mountains and feast your eyes on spectacular views over the entire area.

Last but not least, is the Son Tra Peninsula. At the size of over 4000 hectares, this beautiful rainforest is massive! It juts out into the sea from the city of Da Nang with hikes to go on, incredible views and untouched beaches.

Hoi An

This was the first place that had a real backpacker feel to it. Plenty of hostels to choose from, great food all around and nightclubs next to the beach. We stayed in a hostel called "Tribee Ede hostel" which had a relaxing pool and buzzing bar area. Drinking games were played most evenings and even an amazing free food tour once a week. As I said earlier, Hoi An definitely has the best Banh Mi in Vietnam, along with other very tasty foods to try.

If your looking to get a suit or dress tailored, this is the place, with over 50 tailor shops to choose from and very fast service. I got a dress tailored within 24 hours!

Nha Trang

We weren't here for long but it was quite a cool place. Our hostel had free beer for a couple of hours at their rooftop bar which was awesome. Plus a yummy meal shared with other travelers, which was a great way to meet other backpackers and swap stories of Vietnam.

Dalat

Our hostel was not the best here, it had a curfu to be back by or they would lock the doors! So obviously we pushed boundaries ;) Most unusual thing I've come across with a hostel. So unfortunately we couldn't stay out past midnight but we still managed to have some fun. The best thing we found in Dalat was the Maze Bar! Never seen anything like it! It was literally a maze inside a building with bars on different floors, full of secret spots and a beautiful rooftop maze with a view of the city.

Ho Chi Minh

The last place on our Vietnam roadtrip! There is lots to do in this busy city. We were only here a few days so didn't do a huge amount. However going to a rooftop bar is a must here. We couldn't actually afford a drink at the one we went to, but did get to see the amazing view of the city!

We were lucky enough to be here for New Years Eve and got to meet up with a bunch of awesome travellers we met in Hoi An. New Years was such a crazy experience! With the most iconic strip of bars and clubs we have ever seen, packed with thousands of people enjoying the festivities.

After New Years madness we had to say goodbye to our mighty steeds! It was one of the best but hardest 4 weeks, full of amazing food, beautiful coffee, a lot of rain and great friends! Biking Vietnam... Not for the faint hearted.

[milkpretzels]

48 Recipes for 2017 (1/2)

r In my attempt to come up with 12 different cuisines I’d like to try making for 2017, I accidentally came up with 24. I picked 4 for each, even though this only leads to 48/52 weeks each year I’m fine with that, it gives me wiggle room or an off day. Here’s the first year!

I randomized the list so here’s what I’ve got! Feel free to tell me your favorite dishes/recommendations  if you have any and I’ll work them in.

January 2017: Vietnamese - Kinda funny that I’m starting with this one, as I probably know the least about it other than pho and banh mi; the former of which I’ve been craving for weeks and the latter of which I’m.... not a fan orz.

1. Bò Kho- Because who would I be if I didn’t start off 2017 with a beef stew 2. Phở - Let me live alright........  3. Canh Bap Cai Nhoi Thit - Stuffed cabbage soup, as cabbage is something I’ve learned that I like in the past year or so. Will probably combine with next one to fit 4 in one month 4. Gỏi cuốn - Spring rolls, which is leading me to realize: Considering I’ve never been a pork, shrimp, or seafood person, I might have to start looking into vegetarian recipes more often. Will probably replace pork with chicken and avoid/omit seafood :S

Febuary 2017: Swedish - I’m not gonna lie, I know next to nothing about Sweden too. Hey tho isn’t this an opportunity for me to learn more about these cultures? Although, it seems like a lot of these seem to call for lingonberry jam on the side, not something I foresee being available in Bing so I might ask my mom to go to IKEA and send me some up (also subtly planting the idea of going to IKEA forwhen she goes furniture shopping for her new apartment huehuehe)

1.  Köttbullar - Swedish meatballs...... listen. Will hopefully make these for myself on valentines day 2. Jansson’s Temptation - Apparently a christmas dish, will probably swap anchovies out for capers.  3. Ärtsoppa - Yellow split pea soup 4. Pitepalt - this one seems a bit too simple, but hey. Scandinavian food. I found a recipe that calls for bacon so that should at least be nice.

March 2017: Greek - oh fuck yes im gonna eat bread with olive oil at every goddamn meal. ive never been a huge fan of olives but for the sake of authenticity i’ll probably keep them in at the first recipe. 1. Tzatziki - I always thought this was an Israeli invention but im not surprised it’s greek. a childhood classic 2. Greek Salad - Will probably go with the leftover tzatziki ill inevitably have LOL 3. Moussaka - i’m kind of neutral about eggplants but this is a staple and looks pretty damn good 4. Baklava - i have a feeling this wont come out great when i make it and thats okay LOL

April 2017: Argentinian - A close family friend grew up there, and my brother spent a year teaching English here, which is why I want to include it here.  1. Asado - i dont know how i can pull off barbeque in a tiny apartment but apparently it’ll be a crime not to include this argentinian staple 2. Carbonada - did you guys kno? i love...... stew 3. Choripán - sausage is a weird thing that i ignore my usual dietary choices for, i blame my parents. plus i have such a weakness for street food (well, it’s not street food if you make it in your kitchen but you know what i mean) 4. Chimichurri - Realistically? I will probably make this with the asado, since spring break is in april and i doubt ill be cooking thatweek

May 2017: Soul Food - Distinct enough from american food (another month), I’ve never really been south of the Mason Dixon Line. I have at least 2 friends who I know would recommend/swap out a recipe for me here. 1. Hushpuppies - these look........ amazing...... (im gonna toss scallion in. let me live) 2. Black eyed peas & Cornbread - 2 for one because these are both “mom” foods in a way and i’m not sure if either would entirely satisfy my hunger on their own 3. Chicken and Waffles - okay feel free to drag me but ive never had this there i said it (deep frying is also a process that scares me but all of 2017 will be filled with fear so) 4. Oxtails with gravy - maybe throw some collard greens in? idk man

June 2017: Moroccan - I had to actively balance the overlap between Mediterranean and israeli foods here too.  1. Chickpea Stew - coriander seems to be a popular spice in moroccan food! 2. Lamb Tagine - I knew I had to include lamb, it was between this and kebabs, but I’ll save those for later hehe 3. Chicken Marrakesh - again, more chickpeas!  4. Maghrebi mint tea - It’s odd to consider tea it’s own recipe, in the middle of summer no less, but I think the cultural significance makes up for it

July 2017: Colombian - rip to my crush on the immaculate alex carillo. see you space cowboy.... regardless i wanted more central and south american cuisine  1. Arroz con coco - simple yet elegant?  2. Empanada - im just praying i dont butcher it yaknow 3. Sudado de Pollo - speaks for itself here 4. Bandeja Paisa - I feel like this is one i will probably make with/eat with friends

August 2017: Filipino - I texted claude and got a response back within seconds this was the easiest one to find dishes for 1. Lumpia - excellent 2. Pancit - cabbage, chicken, noodles hell yes 3. Chicken adobo - this speaks for itself 4. Sisig - Claude mentioned lechon but i don’t really look forward to pork.... why am i such a picky eater...... anyway im always a fan of sizzling meat

September 2017: Cajun - This is really just me admitting that I want more of the holy trinity (green bell pepper, onion, celery) in my life  1. Po’ Boy - Sloppy roast beef sandwich? 2. Brochette - Some form of skewer, will have to find a specific recipe 3. Gumbo - Will have to make sure I can get okra for this? 4. Jambalaya - Crystal’s favorite! The one she made was fantastic and Iwant her recipe

October 2017: Italian - I originally split this into two months, emphasizing on pizza and pasta. after some strong encouragement and scorn (??) i’ve decided to look up other italian dishes and make the second month “american food” 1. Risotto - I accidentally made this once and i want to do it justice, in the name of milan 2. Bruschetta - Pat and Caroline have made really good bruschetta several times so perhaps ill hit them up 3. Sicilian - This is vague because I’m gonna ask andrew! one of my favorite biochemists and culinary aficionados  4. Gnocchi - I have a feeling this is gonna be a pain in the ass but i love it so it’ll be well worth it

November 2017: Persian - I’m expecting a lot of rice pilafs and saffron here 1. Kebab - chicken? lamb? the world’s my oyster, i just wanna do something classic here 2. Ash-e jow - I’ve never had barley soup but i do love both of those things! 3. Fesenjan - Same reasoning but pomegranate soup! 4. Tahdig - crunchy fried rice 

December 2017: Ukrainian - This one is timed nicely because Polina’s birthday is the 17th! I’ll probably convince her to cook with me each time hehehe 1. Chicken kiev - another classic 2. Varenyky - Ukrainian variation of pirogi (I decided to leave polish food out of this mix) 3. Holubtsi - The beautiful cabbage rolls I’ve grown to love, like tamales but you also eat the outer portion 4. Green borscht - sadly, i’ve made borscht and didn’t like it (beets aren’t my thing) but this version doesn’t contain beets!

[jacks-tracks]

Food

Before I continue with travel blogging, here’s a bit about food across SE Asia, the good, the bad, and the inedible or just wierd.

    Indonesia, where rice comes with every meal, white rice, steamed, boiled, cooked into a glue, or undercooked and served crunchy. When it’s not rice it’s rice noodles, either flat, noodles or vermicelli. Very popular is Ramen noodles, those instant just add boiling water to a paper cup of dried noodles, soak, and add MSG. I had a slurp of then at the Cambodian border , after 6 hours unfed, and ended up finishing them on the suddenly departing bus. In Indonesia noodles often appear as the base for a mix if dishes, topped with chopped vegies, fish, shrimp, or mystery meat, and almost always covered in blazing hot chillis. Chicken is very common, usually BBQ with more scorching hot sauce. They must raise a lot of chickens somewhere, eggs are very cheap, and make a good protein sub for the inevitable beef or pork. You,d think fish would be everywhere, but whether it,s availablity or price it,s far less common than you,d expect. Every snorkle tour has a BBQ, with charcoal grilled chicken, and  broiled fish, sometimes succulent sweet fresh tuna, or perhaps little sierras, like a tiny tuna but dark meat very strong flavoured. Shrimp are all farm raised in open pools slashed out of the mangroves, netted from the sea. Muddy water, and some wag suggested this solved the sewage disposal problem. While squid is cheap, it’s often overcooked to rubber, while properly cooked squid is tender and very tasty. Worst cases were calamari deep fried too tough to chew, and a stew of tiny squid, tentacles and all, like rubber erasers with elastic strings attached.

   Malaysia was a relief, because here there was Chinese food, with vegetables, the first I’d seen in a month. Really, Indonesia had no veg except the occasional carrott or limp cabbage. I was unreasonably excited to have a salad with lettuce, tomatoes and onions. Yah, never eat lettuce, but it was washed in clean water, and I was willing to take the risk for some roughage. Penang had daytime only restaurants serving”chicken -rice” and that’s all. Hugely popular, packed 100 seat cafes filled with gobbling throngs slurping up grub. A wild eyed cook chopped roasted chickens into bits with a slashing cleaver, while impossibly loud waitresses screamed across the room to the kitchen for more. Lunch only, came with a bowl of chicken broth, and all flopped on a bowl of rice. Delicious, and a big, meal for $1.50. The evening treat was curbside eaterys slamming out plates of BBQ pork bits on steaming noodles, more expensive at $2.00. cooks vanished in clouds of steam from boiling noodlepots, pork was chopped into bite sized bits, and more shrill waitresess, called

 orders into traffic stopping bellows. Pay on ordering, nobody dines and dashes here!

  thailand is famous for food, and everything I ate was tasty and good [except the mystery meat that felled me for 3 days, bad choice} On Ko Yao Yoi the white house kitchen consistently served large plates of delicious food, and after a few chili blasts cut out the extra sauce.  Ko tao made a  change with western food available(chicken burgers!) or cheap local foods in backstreet cafes. Best was Bangkok, street stalls serving a delicious noodles dish loaded with vegies and choices of shrimo,or chicken. Somehow different stalls had different flavours, and I soon found my favourite, whose next door booth made fresh doughuts. Cooked to order, eat on tiny plastic stools, just out of the traffic, filling and delicious. Happily here they had fruit, and i overate rambutaan, chinese pears, mangosteen, mangoes, tangerines, and mandarin oranges.

  Cambodia had less selection, and I took a 20 pound bag of fruits and bread with me to coconut beach. Like accomodation, food was very cheap, and including 2 meals a day, with my rent i spent only $15/day. I had granola with me, and made my fruit supply stretch over 2 weeks. oddly enough the best food in Cambodia was to be found in the Hostel, catering to Western tastes, and food safe. I actually ate pizza!

   Vietnam was difficult. i did find terrific Pho soup, but largely it was rice, rice or rice.The Tet holiday closed most restaurants, and I spent several days in a tiny fishing village, living on baguettes with cucumber, fruit, and white buns. When i got to the north, the starch changed to noodles, with more seafood available. I ate fish wherever I could find it. When felled by a nasty cold, the nice staff at the empty beach resort made me Vietnamese soup for breakfast every day. Terrific broth and big chunks of chicken, classic cure chicken soup. Came with a hot baguette, and I believe that and lime drinks made all the difference. Food on the Vietnamese train was boiled cabbage(bok choi?) and mystery meat slop. I stocked up on baguette sandwhiches and cheap pastrys. They make a flat sesame candy glued together with sugar syrup, chewy and a sugar hit. All the fruit drinks were loaded with sugar, and i had to be very insistent to keep them from pouring in  more syrup. or topping with sweetened condensed milk.

Drinks were everywhere, and beer was the main choice with public drinking from bottles acceptable. Hard liquor was very cheap, local hooch at $2 a bottle. and bartenders poured big shots. Happy hour started about noon and ran till the last drunk dropped. There were times when walking thirsty down some hot street, the cold beer quarts looked mighty tempting, but I don’t drink. More annoyingly, the bottled water is the same price. I have bought very few  plastic bottles, often getting refills at hostels, or filtering my own. Some islands have saline intrusion, and filtering won’t work. There i find 6 litre bottles of filtered water. Pop of course is mostly sugar and is probably a diuretic.

    Phillipino food is bland,boiled veg, not much fruit, lots of rice. Not a salad in sight! In Cebu I had to resort to fast food (McD’s or generic chicken shops). Now on Malapaqua it’s 3 star expensive breakfast or eat local, which was what I did today, having noodles with a  lentil soup  $1.00 Locals are always welcoming when I eat with them, curious kids stare, girls giggle, and cooks proudly display whats on. I do always wipe the silverware with tissue, and if it looks dicey, skip it. I,ve walked out of more places than I’ve eaten in, after seeing the kitchen, or doing the fly count.

   Oddest food?  In Sien Riep they make ice cream to order. Pouring milk mix on a glass plate that is backed by a freezer plate, they take a flat chopping knife and literally chop the freezing mix rapidly, stirring and chopping till it’s frozen, scrape off into a heap, and slide into a cone, topped with your choice of fruit or candy sprinkles. Very good, but it melts quick! 

   5 months, and while I have not gained weight, actually discarding the 36 inch shorts and pants for new 34′s, i an woefully out of shape, soft bellied, and puffing up hills. It will take a few weeks of country life to shape up!

[lewishamledger]

Vietnamese ventures

Hither Green is spoilt for choice when it comes to Vietnamese food, with two neighbourhood restaurants serving delicious summer rolls, pho, noodle soups and other classic dishes

WORDS BY HELEN GRAVES; PHOTOS BY LIMA CHARLIE AND PAUL STAFFORD

Part of the joy of living in a diverse city is the choice of small, independent restaurants. These treasured local gems rise to any occasion, be it a slap-up birthday celebration, a quick midweek meal or a solo lunch on a whim, serving satisfying food at an affordable price point.

This not-so-secret formula for the dependable neighbourhood haunt has been harnessed to great effect by two Hither Green favourites, Vietnamese restaurants Saigon Streat and Cafe Green. I caught up with their owners, Minh Chu and Tam Thi Doan, to find out more.

Saigon Streat is a roving Vietnamese pop-up that “finds amazing spaces in your neighbourhood and pops up in them”. Currently, that space is Arlo & Moe cafe on Springbank Road, which clears away the coffee cups and pastries to make way for Minh’s summer rolls and noodle soups on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings.

Minh had no intention of starting a restaurant when he founded his business, which originally was all about his mum’s Vietnamese dipping sauce.

“She makes a really, really good dipping sauce with the perfect balance of sweet, salty and sour and it goes with almost all foods,” he enthuses.

“I literally drench my fish and chips in it. Saigon Streat was originally about bottling it up and getting it on the shelves of supermarkets.”

But after a month of hosting dinner parties to showcase the sauce and gain feedback, Minh realised he was heading in the wrong direction.

“What I truly enjoyed and was passionate about was serving people great food and creating a good time,” he explains.

“I’ve always loved getting a bunch of friends and family together over delicious food, so it sort of all came together without me even noticing it really. I ran my first pop-up in Greenwich and its popularity blew me away.”

It could have been a very different path for Minh, who grew up in south-east London and went on to Warwick university after school to study maths.

“I then did what most people did from my degree course and joined a global bank. Of course I was grateful for all the opportunities I had, but I just did not find it personally rewarding,” he says.

“I challenged myself to search for a career path that would allow me to use my creative and entrepreneurial skills but at the same time be really passionate about what I do. I found it in food.”

Since that first successful pop-up in Greenwich, Minh has enjoyed “long residencies” in Lee, Catford, Brockley, Forest Hill and now Hither Green. “In fact there was a time when you could find Saigon Streat in all those locations each week,” he says.

“However, with the birth of my first, just over one-and-a-half years ago, I scaled back Saigon Streat pop-up operations to Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights in Hither Green. I’m now looking to expand once again.”

The food at Saigon Streat is, of course, based on his mother’s fantastic cooking but his father has also influenced his style.

“My mum has that fresh and fragrant approach to Asian cooking that the Vietnamese have, and my dad was born in Vietnam but had Chinese parents, so he was raised to cook proper Chinese food,” Minh explains.

As a result the menu is primarily Vietnamese but has strong Chinese influences, which has “served us really well”, he says.

“Not only do we offer the fragrant herb salads and delicate broths that my mum is so good at, we also have the aromatic flavours and diversity of Chinese cuisine too, from steamed pork dumplings to a five-spiced chilli-salted squid.”

Minh’s parents have also instilled a certain work ethic. “My parents’ recipes have great influence on me, but as people they inspire me too. They are of retirement age, but they work just as hard as I do, to help make my dreams come true. Our passion, our desire and hard work comes through in our dishes.”

The menu at Saigon Streat is short but varied, offering a range of different flavours and textures. Its size allows Minh to have greater control “over stock and sourcing ingredients, therefore always offering customers the best available”.

He does have some star dishes that have proved such a hit with customers that they can never leave the menu, such as the curries and the slow-cooked pork belly.

“There are some people – they know who they are! – who would only order these certain dishes. From day one to now, five years later, every week they come and I’ve never seen them try something else.”

And what is his favourite dish on the menu? “It really depends what mood I am in or what physical state, but I never get tired of our rice paper rolls,” he says.

“It’s my go-to food after a restaurant shift, because it’s a tasty, healthy snack that can turn into quite a filling meal after five to six rolls.”

Just a five-minute walk away at Cafe Green on Ennersdale Road, proprietor and chef Tam Thi Doan is also inspired by fond childhood memories of food, particularly her grandma’s pho.

“I remember every morning she gave me a warm bowl of heartfelt pho,” she says. “In every slurp I could remember the meaty, sweet taste of liquorice, star anise and bones infused in the broth, with a woody fragrance of cinnamon and punches of red chillies and black pepper.

“It was topped with thin slices of chicken breast and thighs and embellished with fresh green Vietnamese basil and saw-leaf herbs.

“The recipe was passed down to my mother and she taught me the techniques, using fresh produce and livestock. Our recipe today is a combination of the [recipe] passed down infused with my personal finesse.”

When Tam took over the space five years ago, it was a very different offering. “In 2014 we took on the challenge of opening our own restaurant, taking over a cafe that was serving an English breakfast menu,” she says.

“Starting out we did not immediately change the original menu to one serving Vietnamese food, so it was a journey for us until about 2016, when we took the risk and decided to serve the comfort food that we grew up with.

“We were surprised by how well received this was, and with this we managed to change our opening hours from just doing lunch service to doing both lunch and dinner.”

Now, the most popular dishes on the menu are the bún cha cá, a seafood noodle soup with a light, sweet, citrus flavour and a kick of heat, which originates from Tam’s hometown of Quy Nhon, and the classic oxtail pho.

The broth is “dense with beefy flavour, cooked with many parts of the cow”, explains Tam. “It’s hearty and rich with a beefy, gelatinous flavour.”

Other dishes include the bò lá lot – grilled beef wrapped in betel leaf and served with cucumber, spring onion and peanuts; the cánh gà, or lime spicy chicken wings; the bánh bèo, which are savoury steamed rice cakes; a variety of noodle salads and a refreshing homemade coconut ice cream for dessert.

For Tam, cooking Vietnamese food offers a chance to spread a passion for healthy eating while also celebrating her culinary roots. She has lived in the area with her mother for 27 years, and loves the “friendly locals” and “supportive community”.

Minh agrees: “I love south-east London. There is great community spirit here. People have really supported us and we’re always grateful for that.

“Our customers know where we’ve started from and they can appreciate how we’ve evolved, but there’s more to come from us and on a personal level, that’s what keeps it interesting and exciting.

“Every dish carries fond memories for me, and I love the idea of sharing that with my customers.”

[withabackpackandcamera]

November 10th, 2018

Day 8: One Last Burmese Bite and Off To Taiwan!

This morning was my last morning in Myanmar and what better way to spend it than eating breakfast with my two new friends Kyi and Sandar. After getting up and finishing my packing, I bid farewell to San San and took a Grab taxi out towards the airport area, where I first met with Kyi at Feel Good Myanmar 2, a restaurant that was part of a chain of restaurants that served all types of Burmese foods. Because Kyi had to leave early, he met with me first for breakfast. With him, I ordered Burmese tea and sticky rice to start. I also tried some of Kyi’s noodle salad while waiting for Sandar to hand-deliver some food she wanted me to try. It wasn’t long after we started eating that Kyi actually had to leave. As a result, I was left hanging out by myself for a little before Sandar finally arrived with her special delivery of Nann Gyi Thote, a rice noodle salad that was a specialty dish of Mandalay. This particular noodle dish actually came from her friend’s restaurant and she really wanted me to try it. And it was good! By the time I finished all my breakfast, I was super full and ready for my relaxing flight to Taiwan.

After a short delay at the airport, I was off. The flight to Taiwan wasn’t too bad and took around 3.5 hours. By the time I touched down in Taipei, the sun was starting to set and the afternoon was beginning to become evening. After making it through Immigration/Customs, I slowly made my way through the airport toward the MRT station, where I was hoping to catch my ride into the city. After a quick stop to buy my Metro Card for the rail, I made it on, safely and soundly, and was on my way into central Taipei. The ride was really smooth and reminded me of my rail trips in Japan. This ended up being the first of many flashback kind of moments to my trip to Japan a couple years back. So many similarities between these two places!

Once I was at Taipei Main Station, I got off and made my way outside, where I started my 2km walk to Meander Taipei hostel, my home for the next few days. Though my bags were quite heavy, I had a really nice first walk and felt that it was probably the best way to get to know Taipei right off the bat. With the walk, I was able to get a sense of what was going on Taipei, what to expect from this trip, and to appreciate how different things were now compared to my time in Myanmar last week. As I got closer to my hostel, I walked through an area full of lights, stores, and young people in the streets that reminded me somewhat of the small suburbs of Japan, like Shinjuku and Harajuku. So vibrant and so different compared to where I had just come from!

Finally, after all of that walking, I finally reached my hostel, where I checked in and was led up to my room. I hung around the hostel for a bit, got settled, and looked around at the different info graphics they had up for Taipei (it was actually awesome that the hostel had information plaques up because it really helped with my exploration of the city) before making my first move of the night: food searching. After looking through the recs on the recommendation wall in the hostel, I decided that I would first find food at TianTianLi, a food stall nearby in Ximending that was very popular and known for its homey foods. In this case, I waited in line for my simple bowl of minced pork and egg over rice and it was delicious! SO SO GOOD! And so simple! It’d been a while since I was able to eat something homey and familiar so the bowl of rice just hit the spot and I was in food heaven!

After chowing down on my bowl in what seemed like no time, I walked off and explored the area for more foods. Because of Taiwan’s street food scene, I knew it would be really easy to find food everywhere and try a bunch of different things. So instead of eating a bunch all at once, I decided that on my first night, I’d try a lot of small dishes so that I could eat more dishes in total! What a smart idea! I walked around the area with my Google Maps open and decided that the next stop would be at a small restaurant/food stall called 1973 Chicken/J&G Fried Chicken, famous for its popcorn chicken. After a bit of a line, I finally made it and got my bag of hot crispy popcorn chicken. And it was only okay. The only reason it was okay and not good was because of the bony fragments in the chicken pieces. Ugh, totally wasn’t expecting that and it really detracted from the otherwise well-made popcorn chicken. Sighs. Definitely not as good as it was hyped up to be.

As I was walking and eating my popcorn chicken, I decided to make one more stop for the evening at Ningxia Night Market, which was a bit of a walk away from the hostel and in the same general direction of Taipei Main Station, where I got off earlier. I picked this particular night market because I knew it was a little bigger than some others in the area and sort of close by. With the pleasant evening weather and still some time left before I needed to crash, I thought it was a good idea to get in my first real Taiwanese night market experience. And I’m glad I did it!

I strolled for a bit and enjoyed the empty neighborhood streets in the area until I arrived at the crowded Ningxia Night Market. Whoa, what a different experience! So many people just walking through a closed-off street, lined with food, merchandise, and game stalls surrounded by tables for eating and lines of people waiting to eat. There were tons of different types of vendors selling all sorts of things, from squids on sticks to milk teas to noodle soups to random clothing and accessories. And then there were the game stalls that had pinball-type games, shooting games, catch-fish games, etc. So much energy and so many people just roaming the streets at night. How awesome!

After walking through the area twice and peeking around at everything, it was finally time to turn back and walk back home. This time, I took a different path to get home to see a different area of Taipei. Eventually, I made it back, super ready for bedtime. And as I was falling asleep, I thought to myself… it’s times and traveling scenarios like this that I wish my travel partner and significant other was around to share the experience with me. Sad.

5 Things I Learned Today:

1. In Myanmar, people don’t really go clubbing. From what it sounds like, it doesn’t seem like clubbing is a huge part of their culture. And it doesn’t seem like there are too many clubbing options to choose from either.

2. Taipei REALLY reminds me of Tokyo. It’s crazy how similar the two places are, from the way the streets and neighborhoods look to the way stores look to the way things are packaged to how nice and polite people generally are! But of course, they’re different in their own unique ways as well, as I will see during my short trip here.

3. Taipei is a city of mopeds and motorcycles. So many of them! And funny enough, on a lot of main streets/intersections, bikers don’t seem to want to turn left. They actually just drive a little bit into the intersection. Then, via the crosswalk, they turn onto the street that will allow them to go straight in the direction that they would’ve turned left into. Strange. I wonder if it’s a patience thing?

4. The Ximending area and its night life and energy really reminds me of Shinjuku/Harajuku in Tokyo! So bright, so many lights and colors, and bustling evening life.

5. There seem to be a ton of Vietnamese tourists in the two countries I’ve been to this trip: Myanmar and Taiwan. I’ve never seen so many Vietnamese tourists until the last week, where I’ve just run into and overheard a ton of them. I guess Taiwan is a really easy place to visit for many people from Vietnam. Myanmar too, I guess.

[maemanio]

Top 3 blessings in 2017

2017 was full of challenges and triumphs for myself and my family. I met people who transformed my life in ways I never thought is possible. I cried because of joy and frustration but I learned something that I will forever apply in my life and share to family, friends and people I will meet.

Here, I will write the Top 3 life changing moments that changed my life.

1. Permanent resident visa grant in Australia

I was born in the Philippines, a third-world developing country. I grew up in a city where I hardly see trees, birds, parks and playgrounds. So when I saw Australia, my only goal was to have our Permanent Residency visa grant. When my family landed in Australia on the 21st of July 2016, I immediately processed the requirements needed for the visa. 

I knew that a lot of people who are here in Australia are dreaming to have this kind of visa. Some of them waited months and years and still no result. For me, I only had one thing in mind, my family and I are going to received our Permanent resident visa easily and quickly either in December 2016 or first quarter of 2017. 

A large amount of money was necessary to start the application. I used the tax refund I received from that year and my savings. After I passed the PTE exam and my family and I’s medical examination, I lodged our application on the 26th of November 2016. I prayed and focus on receiving the visa grant. When I walk to work, it was the only thing in my mind and heart. It was my only focus as I wanted to make sure that my family’s future is safe and secure.

I always checked my email and waited for the sound of a an incoming email. 

24th of February 2017, I was doing an afternoon shift in my hospital when I heard the sound of an email received. When I checked my phone and saw the sender, I immediately hid in an empty room and opened it.  

I received three emails. One for each member of my family. It was our Skilled Independent Subclass 189 visa grant. I couldn’t contain my happiness that I rang my partner Richard about this wonderful news. I even told my student and colleagues about it. It was definitely an answered prayer.

2.  New Baby

Last year many colleagues and friends were asking if I am going to have another baby or when are we planning to have another one. My reply was always probably in 2018 as my daughter Marielle is already three years old. 

Two months before September 2017, I started feeling nauseated in the afternoon and night which was really unusual. I was trying to lose weight during the time that I only ate vegetable salad and exercise through running.  I also noticed some minimal bloody discharge on my underwear. Just to clear things, I asked my partner to buy me a pregnancy test kit. 

First thing next morning, when I collected my mid-stream urine on the Pregnancy test kit, It showed two lines which means I am pregnant.  It was exciting and scary at the same time as we are not ready for another one. But eventually, my partner and I thought we have another blessing to cherish. 

At 20 weeks, we found out we are having a baby boy. Another answered prayer indeed!

3.  Food Business

Since I was small, I always wanted to be a business woman. The business I wanted was a bar and restaurant because my grandmother probably inspired me. 

In 2011, when I met my partner Richard, we had the same dream. When we arrived in Australia, we noticed the lack of Filipino food. I have seen a lot of Thai, Malaysian, Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese food but there was not much Filipino food. Since then, we dreamed, imagined and planned how we wanted to start our business.  

Both of us talked about opening a business at the train station in our suburb. Every time we saw a spot for lease, how we wish we have our food business there. 

One day, we saw a  Filipino food business opened in our suburb in South Sydney. We were happy for them because we know it was their dream and it was our dream as well. 

Then we moved in the North Shore area of Sydney in July 2017 because of the leafy environment and excellent education. 

Every year, in October 2017, there was a Noodle market in Hyde Park. It is an event where Asian people can sell their unique special cuisines. People gathered during this event and try different Asian dishes. As we entered the vicinity, only one food stall caught our attention. We saw smoke and we followed it. There was a long queue when we arrived and when we read the sign, it was a Filipino food stall selling chicken and pork barbecue skewers.  They had six to eight charcoal grill and five to six people helping out. There stall was simple but you can see people were after the sight, smell and taste of the barbecue. I bought 2 chicken skewers for $13 and 2 pork barbecue skewers for $13 for a total of $26. 

The meat size in the skewer matched its price but the taste is a different story. The color of the meat was still raw and was not cooked well. It was apparent that they were only after the income. 

We were disappointed as the Filipino food stall was representing the Philippines and they did not satisfy the original Filipino barbecue.

Since then, my partner and I decided we will open one. We started asking food stall owners of the requirements and I searched in the websites how to apply. During payday, little by little, we bought one stainless charcoal grill, a tent and tables. 

I applied online in Chatswood, a famous suburb in the North Shore area of Sydney. Unfortunately, their response was we were inexperienced. I didn’t give up that easily. I tried to apply here in Eastwood where we lived and I am so grateful that we were given a chance to commence our food business at a cheaper price for six weeks. 

On our first day in December 2017, we were still a bit disorganized but our food sold well. We sold spring rolls, grilled chicken and pork with rice and Ube halaya or Ube jam. We met Filipino people and people who appreciate Filipino food. It was an amazing unforgettable experience. Another reason to be grateful are the people who volunteered to help my small family and business. 

I do know all successful business started small and I know and believe our Filipino food business will be successful and big soon. 

My Formula: 

Focus + believe + pray + 

imagine yourself giving thanks and feel what would it be like if you received it.

[booksplease]

Once upon a time I used to live bang opposite Gelderlandplein. As a new mommy to have Etos and Albert Heijn next door was a blessing. I used to put Bambi in his buggy and off we went to pick up groceries. I was thankful I did not have to lug massive bags across the town with a baby in tow.

Those days there was no Albert doing home delivery. Are we officially old? This week I have narrated too many stories that have begun with, “back in the day.”

Gelderlandplein looks very different now. It sure has a lot more eating joints and not just Ruby, and oh my does Ruby look different now….what a transformation, and they do oriental tapas, now that is a concept, which speaks to me.

One rainy afternoon I met a friend at Saigon Caphe, the Vietnamese joint in Gelderlandplein, for lunch. Nothing beats a hot bowl of pho on a gray dull day and the fun conversation that went with it made it very special. The pho was yum. The fried chicken salad was delicious, however, there was far too much noodles in it and too little salad greens.

We have also ordered home delivery from Saigon Caphe – both Thuisbezorgd and UberEats deliver from the Saigon Caphe in Leidseplein (it is a chain) – prawns, which were absolutely out of this world, spring rolls, chicken on skewers, and rice.

During lunch time the restaurant had a long queue and it was noisy and busy. In the evening it was quieter, however, it is advisable to book a table. There are few good Vietnamese restaurants in Amsterdam, the location and menu makes this place really popular. I would advise ordering for home delivery just to save the hassle of eating in the middle of such din.

I will be reviewing all the new eating joints in Gelderlandplein so keep a look out for that and in the meantime don’t pho-rget to stop and smell the roses. Ok, I will leave now.

Saigon Caphe at Gelderlandplein Once upon a time I used to live bang opposite Gelderlandplein. As a new mommy to have Etos and Albert Heijn next door was a blessing.

[jacks-tracks]

Saigon

The 13 hour bus ride was actually 16 hours long, leaving on time at 11 pm, and crossing Cambodia in the night. Probably safer in the dark as headlights showed the oncoming traffic, and the day time fleets of motorcycles all went home. The “flat” seats were reclined to 30 degrees, padded, and made for people 5 feet tall. My feet slid under the seat in front everytime the bus braked, and I would weasel my way back up the incline, drop off to sleep again, and awake with the next slide. And it was not a through bus, but stopped in Phnom Pen to change to a day bus, and load a bunch more people. Both buses were spacious, double seats on one side, single the other, with the night bus double decked by bunk beds. Little blankets, bottle of water, a tasteless bun.. luxury! 3 hour layover in PP, totally boring like all bus stations, trying to stay awake to guard bags, despite having taken a “U Dream herbal pill”. More flat land, more overcrowding, one hell of a lot of rice. We did cross the mighty Mekong river, as wide as the Fraser  but slower and muddier. The Vietnam border was better organized, only 1 hour to process all the passengers.  And so into Saigon (aka Ho Chi MInh city) at 5 pm. Endless urban sprawl, but we left behind the drifts and mounds of plastic, all kept clean here. I even recognized some of the places from last trip, but soon swept past them to a new area closer to the river where the bus stopped curbside and dumped us all on the sidewalk. Yes Saigon has sidewalks, not all filled with pushcarts and vendors. Indeed some walkways were 20 feet wide and posed an impossible temptation to the motorcyclists, who simply jumped the curb and barreled  along the cement. Bit brain dead, but I changed some money at a dealer, and found the bus office had a travel agent. Now most travel agents are hacks who sell packages and tours. This fellow actually knew how to book buses and planes, spoke good English, and spent an hour getting my ongoing tickets. Absolutely no train seats, and all the buses were full, no tickets at all. Against my principles I had to buy a plane ticket to Quoy Nhon. Got my cheap red eye flight to Manila in February, and a train sleeper ticket from Hue to Saigon at the end of this run26 hours but lower berth with a window. So I do get a train ride after all. My own efforts to buy tickets were stymied by having no printer to produce a pass, and no phone to show the ticket on. I am the last person in Asia to not have a phone, and for tickets and pictures it would have been a good choice.

Saigon is safe but the sex trade is hot. Next to the agents stand five scantily clad women had blocked the sidewalk and were literally grabbing passing men. No takers while I was there, it was early, but the travel agent assured me that sitting there long enough he saw everything possible happen on the street. I’ve been hit on by some girlyboys, and called to by dozens of massage girls, nearly walked into a place falsely labelled a barber shop( the lady barbers were in night wear), and seen some blatent come ons. I do not approve of sex for sale, degrading women. It’s quite normal here with women fromfarm villages coming to town for  couple of years to put kids through school and support familys. Laughable to see middle aged white guys with 20 something girls holding hands as they amble along, he with a blissful smile, her checking her phone on the off side lining up the next pigeon.

    Taxied to my hotel ( the agent got me a “Grab Car”) Asian version of Uber, and could not find the correct Soi(alley) but I got out a hoofed till I found the entrance, a little paved path between buildings, lined with closed shops, and tiny hotels. Mine had a code lock door, no staff, and  a coded lock box for the room key. Lovely little room, maybe the nicest yet. AC, hot shower, big window on second floor, very quiet, TV, fridge and nice queen size bed, all for $14 US. A brief excursion back to the street got me a french roll filled with chicken salad, and so to bed, exhausted. My plans to tour the parks the next day were overeaching. I did find a cart on the street selling Pho, that delicious chicken soup, noodles sprouts and cilantro slurped on a tiny stool right on the sidewalk. The couple selling the Pho did a terrific business with office workers lining up for take out,  motocyclists driving up to get soup in a bag, and what I thought were dozens of flashily uniformed security guards, who actually were the guys who park the motorcycles in 3 deep packed rows outside the businesses, for a parking fee of course. I wanted a hait trim but the shop across the alley from my hotel was permanently busy and the “barber shop” was selling more than a trim.  After a lunch baguette I found a legitimate salon and got my split ends nipped off. I bought some takeaway for the next days travel, wandered the side streets, overarched with big leafy trees, and got lost in a maze of alleys. My internal compass works and I found the Main drag in a bit. Seemed a short day, still sleep deprived, so early night.

More Pho in the morning(repeat customer gets bigger bowl, still $1.50), the packed (crammed )  my packs and taxied to the airport 3 hours early. Did I say that everyone in Vietnam goes home fotr Tet? Well half of them were at that airport! One hour toget checked in, through surging crowds, pushing grannies, and squealing children. My flight gate got changed 3 times, was 1 hour late, and surprisingly I and My bags mad it to Quy Nhon. As I’d hoped there was a shuttle the 20K to town, and a toothless pirate on a cla

pped out Honda bike rocketed me to my destination.  We nearly got blown off the longest bridge in Vietnam, gale force winds, coughed into the gas station on fumes ( I paid for the gas) and thanks to good online directions found the beach here.

 This really is the little fishing village at the end of the road, maybe 6 tourists in a town of 500. The hotel is right on the beach, almost no English spoken, but plenty of goodwill. I have a 16  bed dorm to myself ($5) hot water, AC,power at my reading light, and after 9 just the sound of the surf. AHHH! So for 2 days  i have been eating delicious seafood, piles of tropical fruit, and doing my onward trip planning. With Tet this weekend all stops, so I will lay over till next week.  The staff invited me to a cermony here. Table laden with food, offerings and joss sticks. The all women staff brought in a guy to do the service, and he burnt the paper money, old bills, and joss sticks.Poured oil and high test booze on the flames(in a bucket), whoosh away goes the old, and room is made for the new and good fortune. A brief prayer, and we ate the food(practical). I thanked them profusely for including me.

   My twice daily beach walk collects a string of little kids, and saying Hello. We trade names, giggle and carry on. Even the dogs are friendly. Of course I say hello to everyone who will meet my eye, and try my fractured Vietnamese. Hilarity. Caused a stir when I went to the morning market and bought fruit and veg for the layover. Shy women, cheap food, good variety. I even found little packagesof yogurt! So all’s well, Beach time....