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Gel-X is the Gentlest and Easiest Way to Wear Nail Extensions, According to Nail Experts

You’ve seen it all over Instagram, now here’s the debrief on the faux nails pros can't get enough of.

BY ANNIE BLAY

December 19, 2022

Celebrity nail artists and nail enthusiasts — myself included — have been obsessing over Gel-X manicures. The rest of the internet is in on the hype too; the hashtag #gelxnails has 1.5 billion views on TikTok and has been tagged in one million posts on Instagram. These professional gel nail extensions have reigned supreme in my book since I first tried them and loved how long and shiny my nails were with the Gel-X tips, which was a nice departure from my typically short, brittle nails. I was blown away by how long they lasted (three weeks of long, almond-shaped nails!), despite how short the appointments were (one hour vs. the usual two for acrylic nail extensions). That boggled my mind and had me wanting, no, needing to know more. Consider this your Gel-X nail extensions course 101, including how they work, what they cost, and whether or not getting them is bad for your natural nails.

What is Gel-X?

Gel-X is a "soft extension," meaning it artificially lengthens your nails but still feels flexible, not hard, plastic-y, and molded from, as the name says, gel. This is an iteration of the same material that you would get during a typical gel appointment, made from a blend of acrylic monomers and oligomers. The difference, however, is that Gel-X is cured before it's applied to the nail, instead of after. They look like "clear press-on extensions but thinner," says nail artist An Cao, and come in a variety of nail shapes, such as almond and stiletto. These extensions can also be cut and filed into any shape and length after application. Though the extension itself is clear, there’s plenty of room to add color and personality after they have been affixed securely — in fact, the extensions are meant to be painted over.

One big difference between Gel-X extensions and other options (like acrylic and dip powder) is that, because of its composition, Gel-X can be soaked off with acetone. Also, Gel-X doesn't just sit at the tip of the nail, but covers the entire nail bed, reducing pressure on the weakest part of the nail. "I find that gel extensions are way thinner, more natural looking, and more modern than a dip or acrylic," says Elizabeth Ridley, a nail artist in Newcastle Upon Tyne, England. "And the time for application is so much quicker," she adds.

Aprés was first to the market with the full-coverage, soft-gel extension system. Orly has its own gel extension system, called GelFX, which uses builder gel (a polish that applies like soft gel but dries into hard gel) rather than an already molded gel extension. But Aprés continues to be the most popular option among nail artists in salons and online.

How Much Does Gel-X Cost?

A lot of nail salons — nationally and globally — offer Gel-X services, which are usually specified by the name: Gel-X, or gel extensions. So you probably want to know how much this Gel-X option costs, huh? Based on my experience living in the New York City area, Gel-X manicures cost $100 to $150, depending on length and designs, which can range from simple French tips to elaborate 3D shapes. Unlike press-ons, Gel-X tips don’t come pre-designed; designs are usually painted on after application. "You can expect to pay $85 for the actual set and upwards, with the manicure depending on the complexity," says New York-based nail artist Ayumu Takasawa. That range seems to be accurate for most states across the country.

How Gel-X Nail Extensions Are Applied

Nail Preparation

Nail artist and Après research and development manager Eunice Park says that prep includes cutting or filing your natural nails, pushing back the cuticles, and buffing the nail bed — exactly what you’d expect as first steps during a nail appointment. Your nail artist will then select the Gel-X extensions that best fit your nails. Before the extensions are affixed, a pH Bonder (a solution made with isopropyl alcohol) is applied to your own nails to remove any oil or residue that could hinder clean and proper adhesion.

Application

The process of applying Gel-X extensions, minus the nail art, takes about an hour, prep included. If you’re also getting nail art, your appointment could last as long as three hours, depending on the complexity. The process steps are as follows:

Step 1: Primer. One coat of the primer creates a tacky surface for the gel to adhere to.

Step 2: Gel polish. A layer of clear gel polish is applied to the natural nail and cured under an LED lamp.

Step 3: On the flip side. An additional layer of gel is swiped onto the underside of the gel extension before it gets placed firmly onto the natural nail, and then back under the lamp to cure.

Step 4: Cure. After all five fingers are finished, there's a full cure under the lamp for 30 seconds; steps one through four are repeated on the other hand.

Step 5: Paint. After all 10 tips are on, if necessary, the nail artist will file nails based on your desired shape; then it’s time for color and nail art.

How Hard is it to Apply Gel-X Tips at Home?

It is possible to buy an at-home kit — and the application steps are the same — but it's a lot more involved than, say, painting your nails with two coats of Ballet Slippers. Ridley practiced on a mannequin when she first started using Gel-X, and she's been doing nails professionally for years. If you're confident in your nail skills, Aprés sells its entire Gel-X nail extension system starting at $118.

A few weeks ago, Allure’s news editor Nicola Dall'Asen tried her hand at the Aprés’ Gel-X system at home: "No matter how talented you are with a nail polish brush, this is not something you will master on the first try," she reports. "You'll run into numerous challenges, such as air pockets in the Extend Gel, juggling holding the faux nail on your natural nail while curing at the same time, selecting the exact right size for each nail, and more."

But if you’re feeling brave — and patient — Ridley’s biggest takeaway is, to be mindful of how much gel you’re applying. "It can't be too much or too little," she explains. The artist adds that when she does Gel-X nails now, she uses the size of her client’s nail bed to determine how much adhesive gel to add. The key here is to avoid globs of gel spilling out from underneath the extension.

Everyone’s nails are a little different. With practice, says Ridley, you’ll realize what is too much or too little gel to use. According to Park, less is more when it comes to this step, and she recommends using a light layer and adding more if needed.

Those who want to learn how to use Gel-X at home can use Aprés' YouTube, TikTok, or Instagram tutorials as a resource. Aprés also offers Gel-X certification courses, held multiple times a year in different parts of the country, for professional nail artists. Park recommends that all nail artists who want to do Gel-X in a salon or professionally on clients get certified, though not all salons may require it. You can always ask your nail artist to show you their certification.

How Long Do Gel-X Extensions Last?

If you're looking for nail extensions that can last a whole month — but won't take aggressive buffing to remove — Gel-X is for you. Los Angeles-based editorial nail artist Elle Gerstein says her Gel-X manicures, including a mini-moon design for Blake Lively, last about three weeks.

Ridley says she's seen clients wear their Gel-X manicures for up to four weeks. "Usually, after [four weeks], you can experience lifting," she notes. "I find that some who work with steam or water, like baristas and hairstylists, can’t go as long as someone who works in an office environment because excessive exposure to elements like steam and water can cause the extension to lift from the natural nail sooner."

But don’t worry: This doesn’t apply to daily activities like washing your hands and showering. "Excessive" here means more like having your hands in water every few minutes.

Gel-X Removal Process

Gerstein usually cuts extensions close to the nail before using an electric file to "get rid of the excess" gel, so they’re easier to remove. An acetone-soaked cotton ball is applied to the nail and your fingertips are wrapped in foil. The rest of the gel will soften and separate from your natural nail so it can be gently removed using a tool like a cuticle pusher, leaving little to no damage.

Gel-X Pros and Cons

Pros

The nail artists I speak with all agree that one of the biggest benefits of Gel-X is how easy it is to remove. Gel-X can also better preserve the health of your natural nails. Though Gerstein, who has experience working with Gel-X and acrylic, says she can work with both methods while also maintaining the health of a client’s natural nails (because she’s that good). She does point out that gel requires less aggressive filing during prep and removal, whereas acrylic requires a bit more. In comparison, Gel-X comes off with light filing and soaking with acetone, and acrylic involves more filing and actually having to pry the acrylic off the nail.

Cons

The process of applying Gel-X nails involves curing under an LED lamp and, according to board-certified dermatologist Dana Stern, the light emitted by any light that is capable of curing a UV gel must be in the UV-A spectrum, meaning it can leave your hands susceptible to UV damage, including signs of skin aging like brown spots and wrinkles, and skin cancer risk.

"Protect your hands or feet with either a broad-spectrum SPF 30, or more, sunscreen applied 15 minutes before exposure [to the LED light]," Dr. Stern advises. "Or cover your hands or feet with a piece of fabric, fingertip-less gloves, or pedicure socks to protect the skin on the hands and feet from the aging effects of UV light."

If you like acrylic nails because of the fill-ins, you’ll find this next Gel-X feature to be a con: Unlike acrylic nail extensions, Gel-X isn't made to be filled in. When an acrylic manicure has run its course, a nail artist can file the fake nail down to the bare bones and perform a fill-in, which allows you to build a new manicure using the same acrylic base. That process involves filing off the polish on the acrylic nail and applying a new base of acrylic powder — but the actual nail extension doesn’t have to come off.

On the flip side, Gel-X is great for those who like to take breaks from using nail extensions, because it's easy to go back and forth from long to short nails with minimal damage to your natural nails. Acrylic extensions require a bit more commitment.

Now that you're equipped with all the info you need, go ahead and book that nail appointment.

www.allure.com

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