#specifically timothy grass/hay

[awhitewyvern]

Carba-mix is the oddest allergy I have. It's literally a curing agent for non latex rubbers. Builds up in my system over time then BOOM, month long full body hive attack where I only love my steroid creams, cold oatmeal baths, and max doses of benadryl.

Okay Wait I need to test something

Editing for clarity as there's been some confusion in the notes:

If you're allergic to an animal that is respiratory or skin or both depending on what allergic reaction you get. If it happens after ingesting said animal that's food

Medicine falls under other, I am so sorry to all the people allergic to penicillin (&others) I forgot that medicine was a thing that existed

If you're allergic to something in the way all humans are allergic, like poison ivy or mosquitos, then you can hit no

That being said, if you're allergic to a certain plant or medication and it doesn't impact your life because you never interact with it, you're still allergic

Hopefully I addressed everything, more edits may be to come. Thank you all for participating in this incredibly scientific survey

[mavacare]

Understanding Allergy and Immunology for Better Care

The Importance of Allergy and Immunology in Healthcare

Allergology and Immunology is the medical specialty which deals with diseases affecting the immune system. This area is particularly important as it tackles several health disorders that impinge the ability of the body to defend itself against pathogens and allergens.

The whole range of allergies from hay fever to autoimmune diseases and immunodeficiencies are an aspect of immunology which affects people across the globe. 

For practicing physicians, appreciating the role of immunology and allergy is important for making correct diagnosis and providing effective therapy. Due to the increase in allergy and immune-related disease incidence, both the measures and treatment are important to improve patients’ life.

This blog will dive into the importance of Allergy and Immunology, common disorders treated, and the role healthcare providers can play in controlling these disorders.

What is Allergy and Immunology all about?

A subspecialty in medical practice includes Allergy and Immunology, which specializes in immunologic diseases such as allergies and asthma. The other function of the immune system is to defend the body against harmful substances emerging from outside the body such as bacteria and viruses.

Malfunctions of the immune system on the other hand could lead to a myriad of diseases which may include allergies, autoimmune diseases as well as immunodeficiencies. 

There are several allergies that develop as a result of abnormal hyperactive responses of the immune system towards otherwise harmless substances like pollen, pet dander and certain foods. As a claim, these substances can cause the immune system to respond to them by sneezing, itching, swelling and even asthma.

In some cases, there is a threat of anaphylaxis which is a reaction that attacks the throat, making it hard to breathe, and can happen in certain severe allergies, which also requires an immediate medical response.

Through this medium, it is true that the immune system has many disorders that come to the focus of immunology practice including autoimmune diseases that emerge when the immune system attacks the host cells and immunodeficiency where the undermined immune system renders the person liable to infections.

All asthma, eczema and chronic rhinosinusitis patients can also be treated by immunologists.

Common Conditions Treated in Allergy and Immunology

Allergists and Immunologists are able to provide a thorough diagnosis and management of immune related disorders. Some of the most common conditions treated in this field include: 

Seasonal Allergies (Hay Fever): 

These are common allergic responses to pollen, molds, timothy grass, and any other outdoor allergens that respond to certain seasons. The patient experiences sneezing, runny nose, eyes irritation issues, and cough as such symptoms. Allergy tests and systemic immunotherapy are basic interventions to ease symptoms.

Food Allergies: 

As the name suggests, food allergies are caused by peanuts, shellfish and even dairy products as our immune systems are used to specific dietary proteins. Symptoms indicate moderate swelling, hives to an extreme life-threatening response the body has, called anaphylaxis.

The management of food allergies includes identifying the triggers through a Pet allergy test, and avoiding those foods, in the case of an allergy.

Asthma: 

It is one of the lung diseases in which the air tubes become inflamed characterized by wheezing, tightness of the chest, or difficulty in breathing. Asthma attacks can be caused by allergy triggers, so immunologists and patients work on both aspects.

Eczema (Atopic Dermatitis): 

This is when dry, red and painful areas of skin start to appear which in most dermatology cases is diagnosed as Asthma or an allergic reaction that runs in the family. Those who are likely to suffer from these symptoms can seek help from doctors via tests and examinations.

Anaphylaxis: 

Anaphylaxis is defined as a fatal and life-threatening response to an allergen. It can happen minutes after exposure to an allergen. Anaphylaxis is inhibited by the intake of epinephrine immediately. To avoid coming across a complication. Treating people who have anaphylaxis has a vital part where one must know whether or not the person has an allergy and to what substance does they have an allergy to.

Autoimmune Diseases: 

Autoimmune immunity is when the body’s immunity considers some cells or tissues to be foreign and dangerous and attacks its own healthy cells. Autoimmune diseases are illnesses, therefore, include lupus, rheumatoid arthritis, etc. These conditions are typically managed with medications and sometimes lifestyle changes; immunologists are experts in diagnosing them.

Immunodeficiency Disorders: 

Any disorder of the immune system in which you’re unable to defend against infection is called an Immunodeficiency disorder. There are many, one type is called primary immunodeficiencies which is genetic. A lot of other factors can lead to secondary immunodeficiencies like chemotherapy and HIV.

However, There are some common therapy’s which include other exalted therapy, along with immunoglobulin therapy.

Chronic Sinusitis:

When there is something that leads to allergic reactions or infections, then that leads to chronic sinus entertaining. To make sure there is no allergic reaction some medication, allergy tests, and sometimes a surgery to improve the overall quality of life is suggested.

How the treatments given by Allergy and Immunology specialists produce favorable outcomes for patients

The scope of Intervention in Allergy and Immunology provides quality for those patients who are affected by disorders of the immune system. This provides healthcare practitioners with a way of restricting the symptoms and averting the allergic reactions or the failures in the immune systems. Taking a look at the following as more of the examples of approaches to treatment: 

Allergy tests and Immunotherapy: 

Allergy tests are the first step done when searching for the certain antigens which the immune system produces in the body. The common tests are the skin prick tests and blood tests as they assist in identifying substances that are responsible for the allergic reactions.

However, over time, the use of certain immunotherapy such as allergy shots or sublingual tablets can enable the body to tolerate the allergen thus easing the patient’s condition. 

Medication: 

For most allergic patients and those suffering from immune related diseases, medication plays an integral role during treatment. Antihistamines, corticosteroids, and leukotriene inhibitors can be beneficial in controlling allergies while autoimmune diseases and immunodeficiency can be treated using immunosuppressants and biologics.

However, for patients with severe allergies, epinephrine doses can be recommended where close observation is advised in Prue Anaphylactic attacks.

Lifestyle Modification: 

With regards to conditions such as asthma and eczema, irking factors can be alleviated through changes in habits, environmental exposure, nutrition, skincare regimen and seasonal avoidance of the condition can be effective. Herein, inhalers and keeping away from triggers can prevent an asthmatic attack. 

Patient Education: 

The information imparted to patients concerning their disorder, signs of progression, and the necessary treatment approaches is paramount in the field of Allergy and Immunology. It is the responsibility of the medical personnel to craft a treatment plan that is workable with the patients so that they do not feel like they are fighting the condition alone; they have resources to help them cope.

This could involve a comprehensive plan that illustrates the measures to be taken to avoid allergens, medication usage, and how to self- or seek assistance during exacerbation of symptoms. 

Long Term Management: 

Allergy and immunology disorders are in most cases chronic and hence the need for management is perennial. The caregivers help in developing supervision on the patients as well as change treatment modalities over time according to the patient’s response thus ensuring the patient feels better.

The Function of Healthcare Practitioners in Allergy and Immunology

All healthcare providers who specialize in Allergy and Immunology are fundamental in the diagnosis and the management of different immune diseases. It is necessary for them to keep track of developments in the subject in terms of research, treatment and new technology brought into the market.

These steps allow them to address their patients’ needs by creating unique care plans, performing a thorough allergy assessment, and administering the best treatment available.

The interrelationship with other health care professionals also has its place in the management of chronic diseases. Asthmatic patients may need to see pulmonologists and those with autoimmune conditions may be referred to rheumatologists or other specialists. Treating patients in groups makes sure that all the needs of the patients regarding their illness are addressed.

Why Would You Consider Mava Care Medical Billing Company for Your Allergy and Immunology Practice?

In order to sustain a thriving practice, billing practices are important for healthcare providers of Allergy and Immunology. Mava Care Medical Billing Services has established itself as a proficient medical billing company that provides a distinct feature of professional billing services which smoothens client’s cash inflows. 

Doing so means that immunology and allergy practices will have to hand over the billing functions to Mava Care Medical Billing Company which means they will be able to provide proper treatment to their patients while getting paid correctly and on time.

Our highly qualified medical billing staff knows the ins and outs of billing practices which enables them to adopt measures aimed at cutting down the number of claim rejections and delays which are vital in ensuring the firm has healthy cash flow while minimizing the level of administrative work in the office. 

Conclusion

Allergy and Immunology is a vital field of medicine that addresses a wide range of immune-related conditions, from allergies and asthma to autoimmune diseases and immunodeficiencies. Healthcare providers specializing in this area play a crucial role in improving patient outcomes by offering accurate diagnoses, effective treatments, and long-term management plans.

 By choosing the right treatment options and providing personalized care, healthcare providers can help their patients live healthier, more comfortable lives. Mava Care Medical Billing Company understands the complexities of Allergy and Immunology practices and offers expert medical billing services to ensure that these providers can focus on delivering exceptional care while we handle the billing process.

[threebarsfeed]

What Makes the Best Hay Delivery in Phoenix?

Deep in the heart of Arizona, farmers and livestock owners in Phoenix require nothing but the most consistent hay and feed delivery to be able to bring up healthy, thriving animals. From small hobby farming to large-scale ranching, operations would go smoothly with the best hay delivery in Phoenix. But then again, many providers are offering the same service, so what can really make one provider stand out? We were exploring in this blog the core qualities that make a delivery service reliable, efficient, and worth every penny.

1. Timely and Reliable Service

In the livestock business, time is everything. With grazing or feed schedules to keep, it is crucial to ensure a continuous supply of hay and feed. A good service should be able to meet such demands without fail in their delivery schedule especially when demand is high, for example, during peak periods. The consistency of a provider to deliver on time despite elements such as extreme weather conditions or higher demand will make them go ahead of the rest in the competitive Phoenix market.

It includes an option for subscription, which would allow regular deliveries and enable the farmer to plan since he would know that his supplies will come when due for delivery. This ensures that panic situations regarding the acquisition of hay do not affect operations.

2. Good Quality Hay and Feed Selection

High-quality hay delivery in Phoenix ensures customers get high-quality hay and feed as exactly suited to their needs. For horses, cattle, goats, or poultry, the kind and quality of feed differ, and the best providers stock a range of options, such as alfalfa hay, Timothy hay, Bermuda grass, and more.

A supplier must ensure that the hay provided is fresh and free of dust for the well-being of the animals. The quality feeds should also be offered in mixes free of contaminants. To animal dealers, this means that a delivery service that cares about quality will have healthier animals, fewer visits to the vet, and better productivity for their animals.

3. Product Variety

Quality suppliers deliver more than hay delivery. They also offer hay, feed supplements, bedding materials, and mineral blocks. Such an establishment would ensure the customer gets all that is required from a single location. Do you need specialty grain mixtures, organic feeds, or bedding in a bulk quantity? Top delivery services ensure that you get all these diverse products needed on your farm.

This diversity cuts down the complexities of dealing with numerous suppliers, and farmers and ranchers can save more time to spend on their animals and other key matters.

4. Good Customer Service

Often, customer service is what makes or breaks businesses, and hay and feed delivery services are no different to that rule. A single company actually listening to and meeting the needs of customers will likely offer more than its competitors in a competitive market. Helpful and knowledgeable staff who understand livestock nutrition can be your guiding light when making the right choice when selecting feed or adjusting delivery schedules.

Great service is also very efficient in communication, whether by phone, e-mail or just online chat, to ensure customers can easily get an answer to their questions or resolve any issues that may be there.

5. Competitive Pricing and Value

While the best hay delivery in Phoenix offers cheaper rates, this is just one side of the coin. It is about affordability and value. A reliable delivery service bases its prices on open estimations, does not add in any hidden fees, and offers bulk or subscription deals.

Free or reduced delivery fees for specific zones or minimum order thresholds are the biggest influencers on customer orders.

Value-added services that add stacking hay on delivery increase the experience, thus improving customer loyalty.

6. Eco-Friendly Practices

The best hay delivery providers now find ways how they can achieve sustainability at a time when many farmers and ranchers consider it as a prime resource. Several providers today offer eco-friendly options such as biodegradable packaging and organic hay. Other providers use sustainable farming practices for the production of hay to significantly reduce the environmental impact.

You’ve got to think about a service that has some sustainable principles to benefit the environment and also portray a positive impact for the farm or ranch using those services.

Three Bars Feed & Tack — The Best Hay Delivery in Phoenix

Three Bars Feed & Tack offers the best hay delivery to Phoenix livestock owners. Providing reliable service with superior customer service is enough to make them one of the largest, fairest variety feed suppliers and quality feed suppliers in the region.

[creativeera]

Animal Nutrition: Nourishing Our Pets Unraveling the Complexities of Nutrition Industry

One of the most fundamental aspects of caring for animals is providing them with a balanced diet through proper nutrition. At its most basic level, animal nutrition involves meeting the macronutrient and micronutrient needs of different species. Macronutrients such as proteins, carbohydrates, and fats provide calories and are needed in relatively large amounts. Meanwhile, micronutrients like vitamins and minerals are required in small quantities but play vital roles in many bodily functions. Proteins are an especially important macronutrient for animals. They are building blocks for muscles, organs, skin, and other tissues. For pets and livestock, high-quality protein sources include meat, fish, eggs, dairy products, and soy. Protein needs vary considerably based on an animal's life stage, activity level, and whether they are pregnant, lactating, or growing. Owners must carefully monitor intake to avoid deficiencies or excesses. Carbohydrates represent another key macronutrient, though requirements differ between species. Herbivores depend on carbohydrates for energy but must obtain them from plant sources like grains, fruits, and vegetables. Animal Nutrition carnivores and omnivores get adequate amounts of carbohydrates from animal proteins alone. Too many carbohydrates can upset the digestive health of meat-eating pets if not properly balanced. Fats serve indispensable roles such as transporting vitamins, insulating the body, and fueling metabolism. Both essential fatty acids and other fats must come from animal sources for obligate carnivores. However, plants provide sufficient amounts for herbivores. Either way, giving animals too much or too little fat can undermine their wellness. Balancing Requirements for Specific Animals Having touched on core macronutrients, let us delve deeper into balancing diets for common household pets and livestock. Dogs, being domesticated carnivores, obtain protein primarily from meat together with some grains or vegetables. Their macronutrient needs center around approximately 18-20% high-quality protein, 5-11% fats, and 59-71% carbohydrates. Dogs also require vitamin A, B vitamins, vitamin D, calcium, phosphorus, and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Cats fall even more squarely into the carnivore category with strict protein requirements of around 30% for maintenance or even higher for growth, reproduction, or activity levels. Additionally, cats need niacin, riboflavin, vitamin A, vitamin B12, calcium, phosphorus, and taurine. Without this last essential amino acid, cats can develop blindness or heart failure. Animal Nutrition obtain it solely from animal flesh. Moving to a less carnivorous companion, rabbits have a herbivorous digestive tract adapted for eating fibrous plant matter. Their diets consist of approximately 16-18% protein largely from grass hay, Timothy hay, or alfalfa; 38-40% fiber from hay or grass; and 30-40% fresh vegetables with 8-10% fruit occasionally as a treat. Rabbits require vitamin C, calcium, fiber, and certain fatty acids not produced in their bodies.

Get more insights on Animal Nutrition

About Author:

Ravina Pandya, Content Writer, has a strong foothold in the market research industry. She specializes in writing well-researched articles from different industries, including food and beverages, information and technology, healthcare, chemical and materials, etc. (https://www.linkedin.com/in/ravina-pandya-1a3984191)

[ben1d]

Feeding Your Rabbit: The Ultimate Guide to Proper Nutrition

Feeding your rabbit the right way is essential for their overall health and well-being. Just like any other pet, rabbits have specific dietary requirements that, when met, can lead to a happy and healthy life. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the ins and outs of rabbit nutrition, offering valuable insights into what to feed your furry friend and how to ensure they receive the proper nutrition they need to thrive.

The Importance of Proper Nutrition for Rabbits

Rabbits are herbivores with a delicate digestive system. To maintain their health, it is crucial to understand their dietary requirements. Providing the right nutrition can prevent a variety of health issues and improve the quality and length of your rabbit's life. A balanced diet supports strong bones, proper weight management, and a happy, active bunny.

The Fundamentals of a Rabbit's Diet

A rabbit's diet should primarily consist of hay, fresh vegetables, water, and a small amount of commercial rabbit pellets. Here's a breakdown of these essential components:

a. Hay: Hay is the cornerstone of a rabbit's diet. It provides the necessary fiber that aids in digestion and prevents dental issues. Timothy hay and grass hay are excellent choices.

b. Fresh Vegetables: Vegetables like leafy greens (e.g., kale, spinach, and romaine lettuce), bell peppers, and carrots are rich in essential nutrients and should be offered daily in moderate quantities.

c. Water: Fresh, clean water should always be available to your rabbit. Ensure that their water source is regularly checked and changed to prevent contamination.

d. Commercial Rabbit Pellets: High-quality rabbit pellets are a supplementary food source. Ensure they contain necessary nutrients without excessive fillers.

Foods to Avoid

While it's essential to know what to feed your rabbit, it's equally crucial to be aware of foods that should be avoided:

a. Sugar and Starchy Foods: Avoid sugary and starchy foods, as rabbits are sensitive to these and can develop digestive problems.

b. High-Calcium Foods: Foods high in calcium, like alfalfa hay, can lead to urinary issues, so it's best to opt for timothy hay.

c. Toxic Plants: Be cautious of toxic plants like rhubarb and tomato leaves, as these can be harmful to rabbits.

d. Caffeine and Chocolate: These are toxic to rabbits and should never be given to them.

Dietary Considerations for Different Life Stages

Rabbits have different dietary needs at various life stages:

a. Baby Rabbits (Kits): Young rabbits need more protein and fewer vegetables. Alfalfa hay is suitable until they are seven months old.

b. Adult Rabbits: Adults thrive on a diet primarily composed of hay and fresh vegetables, with a limited amount of pellets.

c. Senior Rabbits: Older rabbits may need more dietary care. Consider decreasing pellets and increasing hay to help prevent obesity.

How to Transition to a New Diet

Changing your rabbit's diet should be done gradually to avoid gastrointestinal distress. Slowly introduce new foods over a week or two to allow their digestive system to adjust.

Conclusion

Feeding your rabbit is a responsibility that should not be taken lightly. By providing them with the right nutrition, you can ensure a long, healthy, and happy life for your furry friend. Remember to consult with a veterinarian who specializes in exotic pets for personalized advice, and always monitor your rabbit's health and eating habits. A well-balanced diet will undoubtedly contribute to a joyful and thriving rabbit.

[jeanorozcoo]

Optimal Nutritional Choices for Maintaining a Horse's Health and Vitality

Horses, with their majestic beauty and incredible strength, have been companions to humans for millennia. Just as with any other animal, their health and vitality are closely tied to their diet. Ensuring that a horse receives the right nutrients is paramount to its well-being. But what exactly should one feed a horse to keep it in peak condition?

1. Forage: The Foundation of a Horse's Diet

The primary component of a horse's diet should be forage, which includes hay and pasture grass. Horses are natural grazers, and their digestive systems are designed to process forage. In fact, a horse should consume 1-2% of its body weight in forage daily. For a 1,000-pound horse, this translates to 10-20 pounds of hay or grass.

There are different types of hay available, such as timothy, alfalfa, and orchard grass. The choice of hay depends on the horse's age, activity level, and health requirements. For instance, alfalfa is richer in protein and calcium, making it suitable for young, growing horses or lactating mares. On the other hand, timothy or orchard grass hays are often preferred for adult horses. Visit All About Horses to learn more tips about maintaining horse health.

2. Concentrates: Grains and Pellets

While forage should be the foundation, some horses, especially those with high energy demands or those unable to maintain weight on forage alone, may benefit from concentrates. These include grains like oats, corn, and barley or commercially prepared pelleted feeds.

Oats are often the grain of choice because they are easily digestible. Corn is energy-dense but should be fed with caution as it can lead to obesity. Barley, while less common, can be a good middle ground between oats and corn.

When choosing a commercial feed, it's essential to select one that matches the horse's life stage and activity level. Always follow the manufacturer's feeding recommendations and adjust based on the horse's condition and needs.

3. Supplements: Meeting Specific Needs

While a balanced diet of forage and concentrates can meet most of a horse's nutritional needs, some horses may benefit from supplements. These can range from vitamin and mineral mixes to specific supplements for joint health, hoof quality, or digestive support.

Before adding any supplement, it's crucial to consult with a veterinarian or equine nutritionist. Over-supplementation can be as harmful as a deficiency.

4. Water: The Essential Ingredient

Water is, without a doubt, the most crucial component of a horse's diet. Horses can consume anywhere from 5 to 15 gallons or more per day, depending on their size, activity level, and environmental conditions. Always ensure that your horse has access to clean, fresh water.

5. Salt and Minerals

Horses need salt and other minerals for various bodily functions. Providing a salt block or loose salt can help meet this need. Additionally, mineral blocks designed for horses can ensure they receive essential minerals like calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium.

6. Special Considerations

Senior Horses: As horses age, their nutritional needs and digestive efficiency change. Senior feeds are designed to be easily digestible and provide the necessary nutrients for older horses. They often come in a pelleted form, which is easier for horses with dental issues to consume.

Pregnant or Lactating Mares: These mares have increased nutritional demands. Specialized feeds and supplements can help meet these needs, ensuring the health of both the mare and her foal.

Horses with Health Issues: Some horses may have specific health concerns, such as laminitis, ulcers, or metabolic disorders. These horses often require specialized diets tailored to their condition.

Conclusion

Feeding a horse is both an art and a science. While there are general guidelines to follow, each horse is an individual with its own unique needs. Regularly monitoring your horse's body condition, weight, and overall health, and adjusting the diet accordingly, is essential. With the right balance of forage, concentrates, and supplements, you can ensure your horse remains healthy and vibrant for years to come.

[liamthomson123]

A Balanced Diet for Happy Bunnies: Essential Nutrients for Rabbits

Rabbits are adorable and popular pets known for their playful nature and gentle demeanor. To ensure their well-being and longevity, it is vital to provide them with a balanced and nutritious diet. A proper rabbit diet is essential for maintaining their overall health, supporting their growth, and preventing common health issues. This article serves as a comprehensive guide on the essential nutrients that rabbits require and how to craft a well-balanced diet for these furry companions.

Understanding the Nutritional Needs of Rabbits:

Rabbits are herbivores, and their digestive systems are designed to process a diet rich in fiber. A proper rabbit diet should primarily consist of high-quality hay, fresh vegetables, and a limited amount of pellets or commercial rabbit food. Understanding the key nutrients required by rabbits is crucial for their optimal health and well-being.

a. Fiber: Fiber is the most critical component of a rabbit's diet. It aids in proper digestion, prevents obesity, and keeps their teeth healthy.

b. Protein: While rabbits require protein for muscle maintenance and growth, excessive protein intake can lead to health problems. The ideal protein content in their diet should be around 12-14%.

c. Vitamins and Minerals: Rabbits need essential vitamins and minerals such as vitamin A, vitamin D, calcium, and phosphorus to maintain healthy bones, teeth, and overall immunity.

d. Water: Access to fresh, clean water is essential for rabbits to stay hydrated and support proper digestion.

The Foundation of a Rabbit's Diet: High-Quality Hay Hay is the cornerstone of a rabbit's diet and should constitute the majority of their daily food intake. There are different types of hay available, but the most commonly recommended ones are timothy hay, meadow hay, and orchard grass hay. Hay provides the necessary fiber for healthy digestion, helps grind down their continuously growing teeth, and keeps them mentally stimulated.

Fresh Vegetables: Adding Variety and Nutrients In addition to hay, fresh vegetables should be an integral part of a rabbit's diet. Vegetables offer a variety of nutrients and flavors, making meals more enjoyable for your furry companion. Some safe and nutritious vegetables for rabbits include:

Leafy greens: Romaine lettuce, kale, parsley, cilantro, and dandelion greens. Non-leafy vegetables: Carrots, bell peppers, zucchini, and broccoli (in moderation). Note: Introduce new vegetables gradually to avoid upsetting their sensitive digestive system.

Commercial Pellets: A Supplementary Food Commercial rabbit pellets can be offered as a supplement to hay and vegetables. However, it is essential to choose high-quality pellets that are specifically formulated for rabbits. Look for pellets with lower protein content and high fiber to support their digestive health. Pellets should make up only a small portion of their daily diet, as an excess of pellets may lead to obesity and other health issues.

Treats and Fruits: Occasional Indulgences Treats and fruits should be given sparingly and in small quantities, as they are high in sugar and can disrupt the delicate balance of a rabbit's digestive system. Suitable treats include small pieces of apple, pear, or banana. Avoid giving them sugary or starchy treats, such as cookies or crackers, as they can be harmful to rabbits.

FAQs:

Can rabbits eat grass, and is it necessary for their diet?

Yes, rabbits can eat fresh grass, which is an excellent source of fiber and nutrients. Supervised outdoor grazing can be beneficial for their well-being, but ensure that the grass is free from pesticides and chemicals.

How much hay should I feed my rabbit each day?

Rabbits should have unlimited access to fresh hay at all times. Provide enough hay to fill their hay rack or feeding area, and replenish it regularly.

What should I do if my rabbit refuses to eat hay?

Hay is essential for a rabbit's health, and if they refuse to eat it, consult a veterinarian to rule out any underlying health issues. You can try offering different types of hay or mixing hay with some of their favorite vegetables.

Is it safe to give my rabbit treats from the pet store?

Not all pet store treats are safe for rabbits. Read the ingredient list and avoid treats with added sugars, artificial colors, or unhealthy additives.

Can I feed my rabbit human food scraps?

It is generally not recommended to feed rabbits human food scraps, as they may contain ingredients that are harmful to them. Stick to rabbit-safe fruits and vegetables.

Is it necessary to provide a salt lick for my rabbit?

Rabbits do not require a salt lick if they are consuming a well-balanced diet. Fresh water should provide all the hydration and necessary minerals they need.

Conclusion:

Crafting a balanced and nutritious diet is crucial for the overall health and well-being of rabbits. A diet based on high-quality hay, supplemented with fresh vegetables and limited pellets, provides the necessary nutrients to support their growth and maintain their digestive health. While occasional treats and fruits can be offered as indulgences, it is essential to avoid excessive sugar intake. Providing a well-rounded diet, along with plenty of fresh water and occasional outdoor grazing, will ensure that your beloved bunny enjoys a happy and healthy life by your side.

[petclubsworld]

Can Chinchillas Eat Wheatgrass?

Chinchillas are herbivores, meaning that they only consume plant parts. Their main food sources are high-quality hay, dried herbs, flowers, twigs and seeds which provide all of the essential vitamins and nutrients they require for a long and happy life.

Yes, chinchillas can eat fresh grass but this may not be in their best interests as fresh grass may contain contaminants which could make them sick. Instead, dry grass (hay) should be chosen as it will last longer and be safer for your chinchilla pet.

grass and hay should contain low calcium levels, so Timothy hay, orchard grass, botanical hay, oat hay or meadow hay are the recommended options to feed your chinchilla. You may also offer alfalfa occasionally but only in very small amounts as its high calcium content could cause kidney stones.

Source: https://chinchillas.cyou

If your chinchilla seems to be getting too much calcium, try giving them a small portion of a pelleted diet designed specifically for them. This will help them maintain a healthy weight and avoid obesity which can lead to serious health concerns.

Make sure your chinchilla is eating a variety of food so they can obtain all of their necessary nutrients, including fruits and vegetables as these provide essential fiber that aids their digestive systems and overall wellbeing. Chinchillas especially love to munch on berries!

[thespringertails]

Tell us about the piggies! What does a happy healthy Guinea pig eat? Also if you could create the worlds greatest enclosure what would it be like

Okay, Guinea pig nutrition! Before I start, a lot of this is focused on Guinea pig health and ensuring their husbandry enhances their immune system.

The main thing about guinea pigs is they lack the enzyme L-gulonolactone oxidase which is required for the synthesis of Vitamin C, therefore they need to get their Vitamin C from their diet or they will start to show clinical signs of scurvy - just like humans. Most guinea pig specific food’s will have the minimum required vitamin C supplementation in it, however this can deplete if stored incorrectly or if it is stored for too long (over 3 months). Pelleted guinea pig food is preferred to muesli type mixes, as muesli mixes allow the guinea pig to selectively feed which can lead to a diet lacking in fibre. A guinea pig should be fed 2 tablespoons of pellets per day, along with a variety of leafy green vegetables and a constant supply of hay or grass. 

Vegetables can also be a great source of vitamin C for guinea pigs! The best veggies are often the dark leafy green’s such as spinach, broccoli, cabbage, kale, parsley and these should be fed daily. Some root vegetables such as carrot’s are high in sugar so should only be given in small amounts as treats. Succulent vegetables such as cucumber’s can be great for ensuring your guinea pig is well hydrated, but remember that clean water should also always be provided and checked twice daily. 

Now onto hay! Grass or hay is the most important part of the guinea pig’s diet, and they should always have some available. For a non-pregnant adult guinea pig, the best types of hay are meadow, oaten or timothy hay. Pregnant and growing guinea pigs may be given Lucerne or alfalfa hay as this is higher in calcium and protein so is good for growing piggies - but should not be given to adults. Fibre is important in guinea pig’s for ensuring a healthy gastro-intestinal tract and wearing down their teeth, as they are constantly growing. 

Food should ideally be fed in a ceramic bowl or a stainless steel bowl that is attached to cage bars as these types of bowls are easy to clean and hard for the guinea pig to tip over. Some guinea pig owners may choose to feed their guinea pigs on their cage floor which can provide enrichment, however it risks having their food contaminated by faeces or pathogens in the bedding. Water should not be given in a bowl as it can easily become contaminated and should instead be given in water bottle with a water sipper that is elevated off of the ground. This water should be changed and cleaned daily, even if it appears full as the guinea pig could spit into the bottle. Some owners may choose to give their guinea pigs vitamin C supplements in their water, and this should be given at 1g/l. However some guinea pigs may refuse to drink their water because of a change in taste, and if this appears to be the case, the water supplements should be stopped immediately in favour of dietary supplements. 

Any dietary changes should be introduced gradually, as a sudden change could cause gastro intestinal problems for the guinea pig.

Onto enclosures! I have a whole pintrest board named ‘pet stuff’ which is just a mix of beautiful enclosures and catio’s - which I will link at the bottom of the post. I do love all the wooden enclosures (even though they are chewable and harder to clean) but the main focus would be floor space. 

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/goddard5654/pet-stuff/

Thank you for the ask!

[saintaliceofwonderland]

I found this checklist at a pet store that has rabbits, Guinea pigs, hamsters, and ferrets. This is a nice checklist overall, but there are a few items you don't necessarily need for a pet rabbit. Here's what I recommend based on my research and my experience with Alice.

Hay: Hay and dry food are a must. The type of hay to get depends on how old your rabbit is. Young rabbits can have alfalfa hay, but that is too sweet for adult rabbits. Adults need timothy hay, which can be mixed with orchard grass for variety. (Alice loves the blend!)

Dry food: Dry food, or pellets, is made with alfalfa hay or timothy hay, depending on the age of the rabbit for which it is marketed. Get alfalfa hay and pellets for young rabbits, and timothy hay and pellets for adults. Some rabbits, like Alice, are picky eaters, and may not eat much of their dry food. You can grind them and mix them with leafy greens.

Bedding: Hay also makes a great bedding! Rabbits love to lay and eat in their hay.

Salt Licks: Salt licks aren't that helpful. The idea behind them is that the rabbit will lick the salt, and in turn, drink more water. But who just licks salt for fun? Just because it's there? And it may not be a good idea to give them too much salt.

Treats: Treats are good! But I recommend fresh fruit and vegetables, and nothing with corn, oats, seeds, or yogurt. Those are just marketing gimmicks and not safe for rabbits.

Water bottle or bowl and food bowl: A rabbit parent may be tempted to leave the water in a water bottle until it's empty. Water bottles can harbor germs at the nozzles, and the water inside isn't always fresh. Instead, use a bowl or a crock to ensure they get fresh water every day. Make sure that your rabbit can't knock it over, though! Feeders are helpful, too, at least for Alice.

Cage/Hutch: Sigh. Although the pet stores may give you a cage with your rabbit, cages are just too small for them. They're cramped and tend to smell. A better idea is to make the cage part of the pen, so they can go in and out of it as they please. In my humble opinion, a hutch is just a large cage. Some hutches have two stories, but have the same limitations as cages. And do not leave rabbits outdoors in a hutch! That exposes them to the elements.

Little tray? I imagine the person who wrote this pamphlet meant "litter tray". Many litter trays made specifically for rabbits are triangular so they can fit in a corner of a pen. But they're usually too small for the bunny. Choose a cardboard or plastic box big enough for the bunny to turn around in. If you use cardboard boxes, you must replace them regularly! The shredded paper that you find in pet stores isn't as absobent as paper towels, and are usually too expensive as litter. And don't forget to add hay to the box; rabbits are known to eat and poop in the same area.

Hammocks are exclusively for ferrets. The inclusion of hammocks in this list reflects the greater trend of lumping rabbits, rodents, and ferrets together in the "small pet" category. I don't know much about ferrets, and I've never had hamsters, mice, rats, or Guinea pigs.

Hide boxes and Tunnels: These are actually good to have in the habitat! Because rabbits are "prey animals", they need a place to hide and feel secure. You can have one or the other, depending on your rabbit's preference. Alice likes boxes and "hidey holes" made of timothy hay and wood.

Natural wood toys and Nibble Sticks: Wooden toys allow your rabbit to chew and keep their teeth trimmed, as their teeth are always growing. Make sure the wood is not treated; chemicals used to treat wood can make the rabbit sick.

Nail trimmers and Grooming brush: Bunnies don't like having their nails trimmed or having their feet touched. If you're trimming their nails at home, you may need someone to help you keep them still. If your bunny is just too fidgety, you can take them to a professional rabbit groomer with their own nail trimmers. However, every rabbit parent needs their own brush. Usually, rabbits who trust you are calm enough to let you brush them.

Vitamins: If you give your rabbit enough leafy greens and dry food, they shouldn't need vitamins. However, papaya tablets have enzymes that help rabbits digest hay and prevent hairballs. Guinea pigs need vitamin C supplements, but rabbits can make their own.

There is so much information about rabbits and rabbit care, so it's important to do your research to pick what's best for your new furry friend.

[eabunnymund]

List of rabbit safe foods online: oh heres a list of 100% safe foods and 100% will kill your bunny dead if they lick it foods. Oh, some of them are different in other groups? Obviously those groups are WRONG and BAD and are promoting Animal Abuse! Grains and seeds will clog them up like a cork! Anyway your bunny should eat only timothy hay and everything else is just a treat their poor tummies are too delicate to eat anything else because of Sugars! And Proteins! And CARBS! Zero carbs!!! What do you mean fiber is a carb? That sounds fake, you are spreading lies, no I won't look at your sources those come from Animal Testing now here's my 5 Essential Oil recipes to fight fleas and promote calmness. uwu

Actual scientific resources: yeah rabbits actually need the fatty oils and protiens in most nuts to create muscles and stomach bile and brain function, heres the enzymes and amino acids we found that specifically break down nuts and the 2 that convert it into muscle tissue. Most of those plants are only dangerous because your rabbit has never eaten them and their stomach hits the "emergency stop" button or have 2 completely different types sharing the same name. Hay and grasses don't stay in the gut long enough to absorb nutrition from them, and also essential oils are dangerous around pets.

..... we do agree on the cereal grains being bad tho. That ones true. Except it mostly throws off the PH of the gut and then causes blockage once the system goes down. *shrug* Wanna look at a double gall bladder? Its fucking cool as heck.

[vivekbajaj-grs]

Global Straw Pellets Market Research Report 2021

The research report includes specific segments by region (country), by manufacturers, by Type and by Application. Each type provides information about the production during the forecast period of 2016 to 2027. by Application segment also provides consumption during the forecast period of 2016 to 2027. Understanding the segments helps in identifying the importance of different factors that aid the market growth.

Segment by Type

Download FREE Sample of this Report @ https://www.grandresearchstore.com/report-sample/global-straw-pellets-2021-246

Timothy Hay

Alfalfa Hay

Other

Segment by Application

Dairy Cow Feed

Beef Cattle & Sheep Feed

Pig Feed

Poultry Feed

Others

By Company

Anderson Hay

ACX Global

Bailey Farms

Aldahra Fagavi

Grupo Oses

Gruppo Carli

Border Valley Trading

Barr-Ag

Alfa Tec

Standlee Hay

Sacate Pellet Mills

Oxbow Animal Health

M&C Hay

Accomazzo

Huishan Diary

Qiushi Grass Industry

Beijing HDR Trading

Beijing Lvtianyuan Ecological Farm

Modern Grassland

Inner Mongolia Dachen Agriculture

Production by Region

North America

Europe

China

Japan

Consumption by Region

North America

U.S.

Canada

Europe

Germany

France

U.K.

Italy

Russia

Asia-Pacific

China

Japan

South Korea

India

Australia

Taiwan

Indonesia

Thailand

Malaysia

Philippines

Vietnam

Latin America

Mexico

Brazil

Argentina

Middle East & Africa

Turkey

Saudi Arabia

U.A.E

Get the Complete Report & TOC @ https://www.grandresearchstore.com/chemicals-and-materials/global-straw-pellets-2021-246

Table of content

1 Straw Pellets Market Overview 1.1 Product Overview and Scope of Straw Pellets 1.2 Straw Pellets Segment by Type 1.2.1 Global Straw Pellets Market Size Growth Rate Analysis by Type 2021 VS 2027 1.2.2 Timothy Hay 1.2.3 Alfalfa Hay 1.2.4 Other 1.3 Straw Pellets Segment by Application 1.3.1 Global Straw Pellets Consumption Comparison by Application: 2016 VS 2021 VS 2027 1.3.2 Dairy Cow Feed 1.3.3 Beef Cattle & Sheep Feed 1.3.4 Pig Feed 1.3.5 Poultry Feed 1.3.6 Others 1.4 Global Market Growth Prospects 1.4.1 Global Straw Pellets Revenue Estimates and Forecasts (2016-2027) 1.4.2 Global Straw Pellets Production Capacity Estimates and Forecasts (2016-2027) 1.4.3 Global Straw Pellets Production Estimates and Forecasts (2016-2027) 1.5 Global Straw Pellets Market by Region 1.5.1 Global Straw Pellets Market Size Estimates and Forecasts by Region: 2016 VS 2021 VS 2027 1.5.2 North America Straw Pellets Estimates and Forecasts (2016-2027) 1.5.3 Europe Straw Pellets Estimates and Forecasts (2016-2027) 1.5.5 China Straw Pellets Estimates and Forecasts (2016-2027) 1.5.5 Japan Straw Pellets Estimates and Forecasts (2016-2027) 2 Market Competition by Manufacturers 2.1 Global Straw Pellets Production Capacity Market Share by Manufacturers (2016-2021) 2.2 Global Straw Pellets Revenue Market Share by

CONTACT US: 276 5th Avenue, New York , NY 10001,United States International: (+1) 646 781 7170 / +91 8087042414 Email: help@grandresearchstore.com Follow Us On linkedin :- https://www.linkedin.com/company/grand-research-store/

[thehorsedispatch]

New Post has been published on https://horsetoloan.com/horse-health/brome-hay/

Brome Hay

Horse Hay

This page is a continuation of our guide to horse hay. This page is all about brome grass.

Table Of Contents

Brome Hay For Horses

Today we’re going to be talking about grass hay. Specifically, we’re going to be talking about bromegrass hay for horses. If you are new to owning a horse, making sure that you have the best hay for your animals is one of the most stressful yet important things you will encounter. The last thing you want is to feed your horse hay that it doesn’t like. This will end with your horse pushing the hay around instead of eating it, or even peeing on it. It’s like trying to feed a child broccoli and instead of eating it the child pees on it. 

This is where quality grass hay comes in. As the boss of your barn, you determine what your horse eats. This is why you should never be cheap when it comes to the food you feed your animals. You don’t want a low-grade hay. You want something high quality like brome grass.

There are actually two different groups of grass hay. You have grass hay that is cool-season and grass hay that is warm-season. When dealing with cool-season grasses, we’re typically talking about Timothy grass, orchard grass, rye grass, and even reed canary grass, though the latter options are not super popular. When talking about warm-season grass, we need to include Bermuda grass, brome grass, and teff.

But there’s a little more to it than that. Cool-season grasses mature early in the springtime. This means they are ideally going to be harvested in May. It’s important to note that the later in the growth stage the hay is cut, the more stems it has. Also, the less nutritious it will be and the less digestible. If hay is too mature, there’s going to be higher levels of crude fiber. This actually decreases the feeding value and the ability for your horse to digest its food. 

Hay cut too late in the season is going to be way too stocky, it’s going to be low in protein, and it can have almost no nutritional value. Your horses probably won’t even eat it. It could be moldy or dusty. It’ll basically just be a great big waste of time.

And that brings us to smooth brome grass.

Is Brome Hay Good for Horses?

Brome grass is exceptionally healthy for horses. It actually has loads of benefits. Brome grass is highly nutritious, it’s highly palatable, and it has a very high ratio of leaves to stems. This means it has more leaves and less stems. 

Brome grass is one of the best warm-season grasses to feed your horse. The feeding value of brome grass is very similar to some cool-season grasses like Bermuda or Timothy. It’s probably not the most desirable option in terms of versatility to feed all horses, but it is still a great choice at a reasonable price.

One of the big bonuses with brome grass is that it matures much later in the season than other grasses. The weather variables during harvest are going to be reduced significantly, such as the rain and the cold. This means you are going to have more consistency with the nutritional value of brome grass. Brome grass is going to be greener and leafier, which makes it easier to eat for your horse. There is also a lower risk of brome grass getting moldy since there is less rain involved.

To be fully honest, brome grass is actually great. Because it’s so unlikely that your harvest will be overly mature, there is always going to be great nutrients to find in every harvest of this grass.

Do Horses Like Brome Grass?

Horses like brome grass quite a lot. If there is one thing that’s for sure, it’s that horses take to eating brome grass extremely quickly, even if it’s a sudden change in their usual diet. Some people say that after switching to brome grass, it’s as if they’re feeding the horse candy – they just love it and can’t get enough.

The best horses to feed brome grass to are going to be older horses. This is because brome grass is actually quite soft, and it’s ideal for aging horses who need to eat softer food. This is especially true if you can’t get your hands on a second cut of orchard grass or Timothy grass and need a substitute.

But this grass is not only for old horses. Considering hay is such an important dietary component for any horse, as they consume between 1% and 2% of their body weight every day just in forage, brome grass makes an excellent feed source for young horses, active horses, and elderly horses. One of the biggest benefits it has is for horses that are kept inside stalls. Brome grass can be an excellent way to keep your horse from getting bored in its stall, and helping it to slowly feed all day. 

Brome grass can provide additional fiber for horses that are less active and need more time to chew. It’s also great for horses who are trying to manage their weight. When you use brome grass, you always have a leafy hay that is super palatable and suitable for horses of all ages.

Can You Mix Brome Grass with Alfalfa?

You can absolutely mix brome grass with alfalfa! While the classic mixed hay is usually Timothy and alfalfa, you can replace the Timothy with brome grass. This is especially useful if your horse is a picky eater. Because brome grass is so delicious, it’s a great way to help your horse consume more alfalfa. By adding brome grass to an alfalfa mixture, you’re going to increase the sweetness of the feed, thereby improving palatability and promoting more consumption. 

This is actually a great idea if you’re worried about the overall quality of nutrients by solely feeding your horse brome grass or another type of grass feed. By introducing alfalfa or another legume into the mix, you will be increasing the amount of energy, protein, and calcium that your horse receives. 

Brome Hay Protein

Brome hay is a great source of protein for horses. There can be as much as 13-15% protein in brome hay, and plenty of fibre, calcium and phosphorous. In fact it has a higher level of available protein than some other grasses like crested wheat grass. When mixed with Alfalfa this can be a really great source of nutrients for your horse. It does however depend on when the grass was cut, as maturity of the grass will affect the available nutrients.

Source – https://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/IND43969646/PDF#:~:text=Ladd%20%7B4)%20reported%20that%20smooth,45.51%20percent%20nitrogen%2Dfree%20extract.

[lovemychinchilla]

Can Chinchillas Eat Meat?

Meat is a dense and nutritious food, but not all animals eat it. Wild chinchillas don't eat meat, but could it be good for pet chinchillas?

Can chinchillas eat meat? They will, although it will cause gas and bloating which can severely affect your chinchilla's health. It is nutritionally inadequate: it contains no fiber, which chinchillas need lots of, and too much fat. All kinds of meat are unsuitable including cooked and raw, chicken, beef, pork and fish. We recommend feeding safe snacks like rose hips and shredded wheat instead.

The guide below first looks at whether chinchillas physically can and do eat meat, before detailing the nutrients in meat and why they're unsuitable. It will then cover what effect meat would have on your chinchilla's body and why, before making recommendations on how much meat is safe for your chinchilla to ingest.

Can Chinchillas Eat Meat?

The jury is out on whether wild chinchillas eat 'meat'. While it's thought that they may supplement their diet with insects occasionally, evidence of this has not yet been found (see linked guide). And what's clear is that chinchillas a) don't hunt, and b) don't scavenge, so they don't eat any other kind of meat either.

As is the case when an animal is a herbivore or a carnivore, it can't switch its diet to anything it wants. Your chinchilla's gut is perfectly designed to extract as much nutrition from fibrous foods like grasses/hay as it can, which is why chinchillas eat their cecotropes. By feeding your chinchilla a food with no fiber in it, you don't meet its nutritional needs.

So, even if your chinchilla will physically eat meat that you give it, that doesn't mean it should, or that it can digest it.

Do Chinchillas Like Meat?

Chinchillas like to eat anything new. While they don't need variety, they enjoy it, and that includes meat. What your pet won't enjoy are the health effects like gas, bloating and nutritional deficiencies that it will experience if it's fed meat regularly.

Why Can't Chinchillas Eat Meat?

To understand why meat isn't appropriate, you have to look at its nutritional values.

The core problem with meat is that it doesn't contain fiber. It has exactly none, unless it's a kind of processed meat that has something fibrous added to it. This is a major issue because a large proportion of the chinchilla's diet should be fiber. Hay, for example, has around 10-30% fiber (depending on the variety and how dry it is).

Nutrients in Meat

Here is a table that contains data from NutritionValue.org. The data applies to raw ground beef, uncooked, without oil or anything else added. While not all meat has the precise same nutritional values, the broad outline is the same.

NutrientsAmount per 100gRequirementsCarbohydrate0g35gSugar0g5gFat13g2-4gProtein19g16-21gFiber0g30gWater67.13g10-15gCalories198200

Straight away, there should be several things that you notice. The following sections break these issues down.

Carbohydrates, Sugar, Fiber

Unlike what many diets lead you to believe, carbohydrates and sugar aren't the enemy. Your chinchilla needs certain amounts of each to meet its needs. While pure sugar is less important, your chinchilla does need carbs, in the shape of fiber.

Your chinchilla's gut is all but tailor-made to follow a high-fiber diet. There are two ways in which this is the case:

Your chinchilla has just the right gut bacteria to digest the fiber in hay. Different kinds of gut bacteria digest different kinds of fiber, or sugar, protein or fat.

Your chinchilla eats 'cecotropes'. These are soft poops that your chinchilla produces at night, which it then eats. As disgusting as that might sound, this allows the chinchilla to digest the food again, so it can absorb the maximum amount of nutrients from it. Lots of animals, including rabbits, do this too.

If your chinchilla's diet doesn't have any fiber in it, this digestive system is upset. The gut bacteria that specialize in digesting the fiber in hay can't suddenly switch to digesting so much fat and animal proteins (which we'll come to in a moment). When this happens, the food ferments and causes gas, which can cause bloating.

Sugars are simple carbohydrates while fibers are complex carbohydrates. While your chinchilla shouldn't have too much sugar, it is useful as a quick source of energy, and there are small amounts in fresh or dried grasses (i.e. hay). Meat lacks these.

Fat & Protein in Meat

The fat and protein content in meat isn't too far from what chinchillas need, but this certainly doesn't make it an appropriate choice.

Where meat is suitable is in its protein content. Chinchillas need between 16-21% protein in their diets, and meat provides precisely that. But chinchillas can get all the protein they need from hay and hay pellets, so there's no need to supplement their diet with supposedly 'high-protein' meats.

Where meat is certainly inappropriate is in its fat content. Chinchillas have adapted to a low-fat diet, as fat sources they can eat are scarce. Chinchillas only need 2-4% fat, while meat provides 13%, which is far too much. This would be more of an issue if meat contained lots of sugars, as then it would be very high in calories. Since it isn't, this high fat content wouldn't make your chinchilla gain weight. But the fact that meat is very dense would.

Water in Meat

A surprising amount of water is found in meat: around 67g per 100g. This level changes if the meat is cooked, but nevertheless remains high. Chins need much less water than this. They have adapted to an environment and a diet that's low in water. Wild chins live in the Andes Mountains, which are rocky and arid, so are used to eating foods that don't have much water in them.

If they do ingest too much water, chinchillas can experience diarrhea. This is made worse because meat has no fiber in it whatsoever, meaning the stool is softer. This would only be a problem if you fed your chinchilla meat regularly, but since there are foods for both the diet and for snacks that don't do this, it's best to feed these instead.

Vitamins and Minerals in Meat

Meat does contain vitamins and minerals, in quite large amounts. But that isn't necessarily a 'tick' in its favor.

Vitamin/MineralAmount per 100gVitamin B10.049mgVitamin B20.154mgVitamin B34.818mgVitamin B50.576mgVitamin B60.355mgVitamin B121.97mcgCopper0.063mgIron1.99mgMagnesium19mgPhosphorus175mgPotassium289mgSelenium14.2mcgZinc4.55mg

The issue here is that your chinchilla should get all the vitamins and minerals it needs from its regular diet of hay. Your chin doesn't need supplementation or a varied diet to meet these needs; fresh timothy hay and hay pellets are sufficient. This is contrary to what we're taught about our own diets, but different animals have different needs.

Furthermore, not all animals need the same vitamins. Take vitamin C, for example. Chinchillas can produce their own vitamin C inside their bodies, so they don't need to get any from their food. And certain animals need more of particular micronutrients than others do. Long story short, your chinchilla isn't lacking in nutrients just from eating hay, so even if meat has lots of minerals and vitamins it won't be good for your pet.

Is Meat Poisonous to Chinchillas?

Meat isn't poisonous to chinchillas. Your pet won't keel over and die the moment it eats any. However, it could have unintended health effects.

The issue is that your chinchilla is used to digesting hay. It has gut bacteria and uses enzymes that specialize in digesting high-fiber foods. When the chinchilla's gut has to digest things it isn't used to, it struggles. The foods ferment in the gut, creating gas. Since chinchillas struggle to pass gas, this causes dangerous levels of bloating, to the point where your chinchilla's stomach or intestine lining could rupture.

This isn't a problem that's unique to meat. The same thing happens if your chinchilla eats fruits and vegetables, cheese, bread, or any other food it isn't used to.

What Meats Can Chinchillas Eat?

The statistics above relate specifically to raw ground beef, and that's far from the only meat. So what about beef, chicken, pork or other meats? Are any of them more, or even less suitable? If so, why?

Can Chinchillas Eat Chicken? No. While chicken is a lean meat, that doesn't make it nutritionally suitable as it still doesn't contain fiber.

Can Chinchillas Eat Beef? No cut of beef is suitable for chinchillas. While some are more fatty or more tough than others, that doesn't make a difference.

Can Chinchillas Eat Pork? The same applies to pork. No kind of pork product from sausages to bacon is suitable for chins.

Can Chinchillas Eat Fish? Fish is another lean 'meat', but again, is nutritionally unsuitable. Chinchillas never encounter fish in the wild so it stands to reason that they wouldn't be used to eating them.

Can Chinchillas Eat Processed Meat? Processed meat is especially bad. Not only is it nutritionally unsuitable, but it has worse health effects than regular meat (e.g. bowel cancer). While these issues have not been demonstrated in our pets, they are likely to occur in chinchillas as they do in people.

Can Chinchillas Eat Raw Meat? Raw meat from animals that are hunted doesn't contain bacteria. It's only if the meat is left to sit, exposed to the air, that bacteria and bugs access it. Raw packaged meat likely has germs in it that will make your chinchilla sick.

Can Chinchillas Eat Cooked Meat? Cooking meat goes some way to changing the nutritional makeup of meat, but not in a good way. It's typically cooked in oil, which only adds fat—not fiber like chinchillas need. If meat is cooked without anything added, it's still not good for your pet.

The issue is that all meats have broadly the same nutritional profile: no fiber or carbohydrates, reasonable levels of protein, and high levels of fat.

How Much Meat Can Chinchillas Eat?

We would recommend against feeding your chinchilla any meat. The problem with meat is that a chinchilla's guts simply are not outfitted to eat it, as is clear from what's described above.

If you are going to feed your chinchilla meat despite this, keep the portion size very small. A piece the size of your pinky fingernail would be more than enough.

How Often Can Chinchillas Eat Meat?

Again, we recommend against feeding your chinchilla meat entirely, so the ideal frequency is 'never'! If you plan on feeding it anyway, you can avoid most of the ill effects above by only feeding it very occasionally: once a week at the most.

Should Chinchillas Eat Meat?

The short answer is 'no'.

The longer answer is that meat causes digestive issues and doesn't meet your chinchilla's nutritional needs. As such, we recommend entirely against feeding your chinchilla any meat. That applies to cooked meat, raw meat, processed meat, dried meat, insects—any kind of meat.

Below, you can find our chinchilla quiz, new posts for further reading, and a signup for our Chinchilla Newsletter!

#chinchillas #chinchillanutrition

[coolanabrendalove]

What Types of Bird Supplies You Need to Shop

Pets bring so much joy and happiness in owners’ lives. They offer unconditional love, companionship, and they rely on people for optimum care. All animals need proper nutrition, bedding, entertainment, quality time with owners, and special care depending on their breed and health condition. There are several necessary bird supplies that every owner should have in the house. Some need to be purchased before getting the bird, while others along the way. In case of rabbits, chinchilla, guinea pigs, Timothy hay is necessary at all times.

What Bird Supplies to Buy

Some people believe that birds don’t have many requirements, because they spend most of the day inside the cage and they will be find hanging around. It is certainly not the case, because your feathered friend will develop a negative behavior if it doesn’t have the necessary bird supplies. If your pet gets depressed or anxious, you will observe how it starts plucking features, bites, or becomes very loud. Buying the proper cage from the start is essential and the rule is to get the largest one possible that fits in your home.

Your bird needs the extra space to move around, to spread wings, to climb, and if you have a smaller one, it should be able to fly inside. Don’t forget that you have to position other supplies inside the cage, such as food and water bowls, some toys, perches, ladders, swings, and such. This means you have to take into account all elements and make sure you buy the right one from the beginning. Toys are a necessity, because you have to offer your pet entertainment and help it focus its energy on something productive. There are so many amazing ones to choose from that you will not have any issues.

What Is Timothy Hay

In case you want to add a small furry friend in your home, you have to take into account all elements, especially nutrition. Hay is a vital component, and it needs to be integrated in the diet at all times. It has the right texture and nutrition to keep your small companion in good health. What is exactly  Timothy hay ? It is a perennial grass native to Europe, but it increased its popularity due to the high number of pet owners. It is important to note that it is not the same as livestock hay, because it is finer, softer, and has a better taste. Small animals have a complex digestive system, and it is essential to provide the optimal nutritional value.

It is not necessary to grow it on your own or find someone who does, because you can easily find it in specialized pet shops. It is widely available, and you can purchase small or large bags, so you have enough around the house and not run out. Small animals spend a lot of time in the wild looking for food and nibbling, and they require plenty of fiber to keep their stools in great shape. Once you provide hay to your furry friend, you make sure it doesn’t put on extra weight, it doesn’t bloat, and keeps the digestive system in good health.

People that have multiple types of pets around the house need to make sure they have all the needed products at hand. If you happen to run out from some of them, you have to run to the store or place an online order and make sure you fill up the stock. Once you browse through an online shop, you can go through the diversity of  bird supplies  and get familiar with the necessary products. Besides food and seeds, you can include treats in their diet, to reward their behavior and keep them active and happy.

Vitamins and minerals are other popular bird supplies, if you want to make sure your feathered friend receives the best attention or in case the vet recommends taking them. It is always a good idea to have first aid kits around the house, you never know when you pet gets injured and knowing you can offer assistance right away is assuring. If you plan to bathe your bird, you can’t use regular cleaning products, you have to purchase some designed specifically for it, to avoid irritations, allergies, and other uncomfortable situations.

Choosing between bird supplies can be done while visiting a pet shop or looking for one online. There are certain situations that will indicate what products your pet requires. Food and toys are needed on a regular basis, because you have to offer your pet the right toys to substitute what they do in the wild. For instance, they need the bite, to climb, to forage, to speak to someone, and with the right products, you will help your feathered companion lead a happy and healthy life.

Where to Buy Hay

Looking after pets is a lot easier nowadays because you can discover a wide variety of products at dedicated pet shops. You can purchase all needed supplies at all times and have them in the house whenever needed. Some people prefer smaller pets, such as guinea pigs, rabbits, or chinchillas, because they are easier to look around for, they require less space, they are not noisy. Even so, they still have necessities and Timothy hay is one of the most important ones.

Timothy hay is highly recommended for such pets to improve dental health. Teeth grow throughout their life and they need to chew to wear them down. Overgrowing teeth is a problem and you have to seek medical assistance if you notice something out of the ordinary. The good news is that with hay and other chews, such as organic apple sticks, you can easily control the issue.

There are different types of Timothy hay, such as first, second, and third cuts. These indicate when the hay was harvested and the use for each kind. Based on your pet’s age and health conditions, you can eventually choose the right one. Always make sure you purchase hay from a trusted brand and from a certified pet shop. 

[petcarecorner]

Latin Name: Cavia porcellus

Native To: South American Andes 

Average Lifespan: 4-8 Years

Average Size: 20-25cm

Average Weight: 0.7-1.2kg

Diet: Herbivorous 

The confusedly named Guinea Pig is neither a Guinea native nor closely related to pigs. Yet according to the people of the South American these lively rodents do have one thing in common with their porcine namesakes: they taste good. Though I can’t attest to the merit of these claims (nor would I want to) I can confidently say that they do make wonderful pets. 

These vocal critters have long since outgrown their humble livestock origins and are now a go-to pet for parents trying to teach their kids a valuable lesson in responsibility via a new furry friend. 

Thinking of getting a guinea pig? Here are some things you need to know:

Behaviour

The most important thing to note about guinea pigs is this: they’re social animals. In order for your cavy to be happy it has to at least be kept as a pair (in this case of an animal unfit to live peacefully with others a divider should be placed between two halves of a large enclosure so as to allow socialization without the risk of injury to either or both of your pets). No amount of one-on-one cuddling with your rodent will replace the need for companionship. In short: if you can’t get two of them, you can’t get them at all. Period.  

This may seem harsh but the amount of times I’ve encountered multiple solitary guinea pigs is honestly disheartening. Switzerland went as far as to outlaw the purchase of lonely cavies, classifying the act as a form of animal abuse. Frankly, I wish more countries would adopt this policy. So please, do the right thing and get a pair (and if you don’t want a bunch of babies running around be sure to get the same gender for both of them).  Remember that when introducing a new guinea pig into a pre-established herd you need to do it slowly to ensure it’s accepted.

Now, with that disclaimer out of the way let’s talk about all the fascinating quirks these guys have! You know how dogs get zoomies? Well imagine that but on a smaller scale and intercut with small excited hops. The already adorable behaviour is given an equally adorable name- popcorning.

Another noteworthy thing to know about these guys- they are extremely food motivated (aren’t we all?) and are permanently hungry. Some owners have used this to their advantage to train their herds to come when called, use a litter box and even perform tricks (x,x).  If there’s food on the line, they’re your number one student. Even without training most guinea pigs learn to recognize sounds like the fridge door opening, the crinkle of a bag of lettuce and even the footsteps of a specific person in the house. Anything and everything related to feeding time is going to receive loud wheeks of approval from the peanut gallery. 

And when I say loud, I mean loud. If you enjoy your peace and quiet you better find some other critter to share your home with. These guys are always chattering on about something and care little about what time you have to get up for work tomorrow. Happy? Your guinea pig might start to purr.  Angry or flirty? Don’t be surprised if they start rumbling. Stressed? Chirping may follow. These little critters seem to have a million noises for a million different things.

Enclosure

Your guinea pig duo are going to need at least 7.5 square feet of continuous space, so though they’ll definitely enjoy that second floor it doesn’t factor into the base size calculations. Remember, more is always better and whatever space you give them is space they’re going to use.

It’s important to note that guinea pigs can’t sweat so it’s important not to place your enclosure near a direct heat source (stove, sunny window, fireplace, etc.). Their ears are also really sensitive so keeping them near speakers and such is also a bad idea. They thrive on being near the action and will enjoy hanging out wherever you spend most of your time, be it the living room or a study (you can even keep them in your room if you’re a heavy enough sleeper).

Most enclosures you’ll find in pet stores simply aren’t going to be big enough to comfortably house your guinea pigs so it’s better to research the cage you want before you go in to buy it so as not to rely on the “expertise” of pet store employees. Though there are numerous commercially available cages that meet (and exceed) the 7.5 square foot minimum, many guinea pig owners prefer using build-it-yourself C&C Cages (short for cubes & coroplast). These types are cages are easily customizable and expandable, made from easy to find materials and are often considerably cheaper than the ill-fitting cages you’ll find at your local pet store. Though building your own C&C cage is fairly simple there are also online stores where you can order a variety of colors an layouts. If you’re handy enough, you could even opt for a hand built wooden enclosure. 

Just be sure to avoid wire bottomed cage, provide shelter if you decide to keep them outdoors and add a lid/rood if you have any pets that might try and make a quick snack of their new roommate. 

Bedding

When choosing the right bedding for your cavy you want to be sure to get something soft, absorbent, non-scented and dust free. The dust free part is incredibly important as not only will dusty bedding make cleaning a nightmare but it can also cause some serious breathing issues for your pet. The top three beddings used by guinea pig owners are:

Paper

Fleece 

Aspen 

Each of these comes with their own pros and cons. Paper bedding, for example, can be dangerous should your guinea pig choose to eat it (unlikely but still possible) and lower quality brands can be quite dusty. Because of this, I’d stick to fleece or aspen. Still, I’d highly recommend doing your own research into each of these to decide which of them is the right choice for you.  

As with any animal there’s also bedding to avoid at all cost. 

Cedar, pine and other softwood chips/shavings can be super dangerous to your pet’s health due to all the dust, oils and phenols. 

Clumping cat litter. All it’s clumping abilities come from the use of chemicals that make it unsuitable to live in full time. 

Corn husks. Prone to mold and could cause intestinal blockage if ingested

Straw. It’s not absorbent at all and the pooling of urine and feces will create a dangerous breeding ground for bacteria. It’s also not soft at all and could hurt your guinea pig. 

Enrichment

Not only do guinea pigs need environmental enrichment to stay mentally and physically active but watching them play is also one of the best parts of owning them! They really enjoy using tunnels and hides (x,x,x) as it makes them feel safe and secure (remember they’re a prey animal). Chew toys (like willow balls, grass balls and wood toys) are great to help them wear down their teeth. Also consider getting them a foraging toy of some sort where they can work for their food. As I stated earlier, guinea pigs are incredibly food motivated and you can be sure that they’ll spend hours figuring out how to get treats. Fleece forests, ball toys (x,x) and soft beds are also popular options. Making DIY toys is also an easy and fun thing you can do for your guinea pigs. Rearranging your cage set up from time to time could also encourage your cavies to explore.  

**Do not purchase a hamster ball or wheel for your guinea pig** Guinea pigs lack the flexibility that hamsters have and these toys will hurt their spine. 

Another way to provide enrichment is to provide floor time for your guinea pigs a few times a week (experts recommend they get floor time at least 3 days a week). This can be done indoors or outdoors via a designated room or play pen.  When setting up your floor time area just be sure to guinea-proof it and keep the area free of anything they could eat that would hurt them. If you decide to have floor time outside be sure to use a covered pen and keep and/or eye on them so birds don’t swoop in for a snack. 

Feeding

Guinea Pigs require a varied diet of hay, veggies, fruits and high quality pellets. For starters, guinea pigs require hay 24/7. Timothy Hay should make up the vast majority of your pet’s diet as it’s high in fiber, low in calories and strong enough to help wear down your cavy’s teeth. Though other types of grass hay (like botanical hay, orchard gras & oat hay) can help spice up their diet and provide a variety of textures, timothy hay should always make up the bulk of their diet. Legume hays (like alfalfa and clover) should generally be avoided. Though not harmful, it’s high calorie content and low fiber amount means it should only be fed in moderation and is unfit as a nutritional staple. There are exceptions, though. Pregnant, lactating or baby guinea pigs might benefit from the extra calories and calcium these hays provide. Some vets may even recommend it for sick or weak individuals. Remember to store your hay properly to maintain it’s freshness, avoid mold growth and keep the nutrient levels high. 

The second fundamental part of your pet’s diet is commercial guinea pig feed. Each of your guinea pigs should get 1/8 Cup of high quality pellets per day. Be sure to choose high quality pellets, timothy-hay based pellets are ideal for adult cavies (though alfalfa pellets can be used for young cavies). Be sure to store it properly to avoid vitamin C degradation. You’re going to want to serve them their pellets in a wide and shallow ceramic bowl that is difficult to tip over and place it far from their typical bathroom area. 

Lastly: fresh fruits and vegetables. You should provide your guinea pig three servings of vegetables a day, with leafy greens accounting for at least one of those servings and no more than one serving of any given vegetable per day. Remember, variety is important for you pet to receive all the nutrients they need. Also remember that certain vegetables, though harmless in small quantities, can become dangerous or unhealthy if fed too often. Fruit can be provided as a treat and account for 1-2 servings of food per week. To find out the serving size and how often certain foods can be fed I recommend checking out this helpful chart. If you decide to introduce a new food into you cavy’s diet, do it slowly to avoid upsetting their stomach. And remember, you can always turn to google if you’re unsure about which fruits/vegetables are safe to feed to your pet. 

Guinea pigs (like humans) don’t produce their own vitamin C which can leave them susceptible to scurvy. Upon hearing this many worried owners may rush to purchase vitamin supplements for their new pets. In truth, their vitamin C requirement is easy to meet so long as you provide a varied diet of fresh fruits/veggies and store your pellets correctly. If you’re still worried, however, you can choose to supplement your cavy’s diet with guinea pig vitamin C tablets which come in the form of a treat. Some people may choose to sprinkle human vitamin C tablets into their pet’s veggies. The recommended dose of human vitamins is a quarter of a 100mg tablet (be sure it only has vitamin C and isn’t a multivitamin, though). Either way, supplementation is often unnecessary. If you’re worried, consult your vet. 

Now, as with our previous categories, there are also some feeding don’ts:

Do not add vitamin C to your guinea pig’s water. Though this kind of supplementation is available in many pet stores it may cause you pet to stop drinking their water all together which will cause serious problems. 

Avoid commercial guinea pig treats. These offer no nutritional value and are a drain on your wallet. If you want to give them a treat for a special occasion, give them fruit. 

Avoid multivitamin and mineral wheels. Like with vitamin C they tend to be unnecessary if you provide your pet with the proper nutrition. Furthermore, the bleaching/glue used on them can actually be harmful for your guinea pigs. 

Water

When buying the equipment you’ll need for your guinea pig you’re likely to find yourself having to decide between purchasing a water bottle or a water bowl. Though advocates for water bowls claim they’re a more natural way of drinking most guinea pigs have been raised since birth to use a water bottle and may refuse to drink out of a water bowl (granted, I’ve also heard tell of guinea pigs where the opposite is true). 

In reality, water bottles are an all around better option for your pet. Firstly, water bottles are considerably more hygienic. It is impossible to keep bowls clean with these guys. Substrate, feces- you name it. Soon enough that water is going to become a breeding ground for bacteria. Secondly, guinea pigs are notorious for knocking over their bowls. Though this may not seem like a big deal, guinea pigs can dehydrate very quickly and an empty water bowl for an extended period of time could have serious consequences. 

That being said, water bottles are not without their issues. For one, they have a tendency to break and empty themselves out. This feeds back to the issue of dehydrating. Be sure to take extra precautions and place at least two water bottles in your enclosure and fill them with fresh water daily.  

Cleaning Your Enclosure

Guinea pig enclosures require spot cleaning 1-2 times a day. In the case of loose bedding like paper and aspen this means taking out any soiled bedding and replacing it with fresh bedding. If you’ve decided to use fleece as a bedding this means using a dustpan brush or vacuum to remove any feces and loose debris.  

You’ll also have to deep clean your cage at least once a week. For loose litter, this involves completely replacing the bedding in your enclosure (dustpans are the easiest way to do this). For fleece, it involves replacing the used one with a new line and sending the soiled one to the washing machine (just be sure to shake off any feces/hay first). You should disinfect your enclosure while it’s bedding free using a solution that 1/2 white vinegar and 1/2 water. You’re also going to take this opportunity to wash your food bowls and water bottles to avoid the build up of bacteria and algae in these containers. 

Remember, cleaning is an ideal time to give your guinea pig floor time! 

Guinea Pig Grooming 

Grooming requirements will vary greatly depending on the breed and fur type of your guinea pig. Short haired guinea pigs can get away with a weekly brushing with a soft bristle brush to help control shedding. Long haired guinea pigs, on the the other hand, require frequent (if not daily) brushing with a wide toothed metal comb to keep the fur bedding and mat free. Remember, should your pet present a mat it’s better to cut it out as trying to brush it could hurt your guinea pig. Your long-haired cavy will also need hair trimmings so investing in a set of hair dressing scissors is a must. Many owners choose to keep the fur around their bottoms short to avoid feces/urine getting trapped there. 

Guinea pigs have a grease gland at the base of their spine which could become over active with some individuals (typically males). An over active grease gland will leave the fur in that area tacky, greasy and susceptible to infections. If you notice an excess of grease you should let the affected fur soak in coconut oil for a few minutes before washing the area with guinea pig-specific shampoo. If this doesn’t work, using mild dish soap will do the trick. Keeping the fur in this area short will also help with this issue. 

Bathing should be kept to a minimum with your guinea pig as it causes stress and leaves them susceptible to the cold. You should bathe your guinea pig about twice a year. Granted, additional baths may be necessary as a form of parasite treatment or to remove stuck feces/urine (though the latter can be done with a butt bath as opposed to a full bath). If your guinea pig does need a bath do so with warm shallow water in a warm room and use guinea pig-specific shampoo. Be sure to fully rinse them off and towel dry them to the best of your abilities (blow drying isn’t recommended as the noise/heat can hurt your sensitive cavy). Once done, give them floor time in a warm room until they finish drying. Never put your guinea pig back in his cage while he’s still wet. 

Aim to clip your guinea pig’s nails once a month (some individuals may require more frequent clippings). When doing so be careful and avoid cutting the quick (the blood vessel in the nail). On light colored nails, the quick is easily identifiable as the red part at the base of the nail. If you do accidentally cut the quick your cavy will be in pain for a few moments and his nail will begin to bleed- don’t panic! The bleeding can be easily stopped by pressing the nail into styptic powder/pencil, flour or cornstarch. Don’t place your guinea back in their cage until the bleeding has completely stop. If you’re uncomfortable doing this yourself you can always ask your vet/groomer do it for you (or teach you how to do it).

You should clean your guinea pig’s ears once every two weeks. This is especially important for older cavies who’s ears have a tendency to become crusty. Start by adding a few drops of mineral/olive oil to your guinea pig’s ears and massaging it in to help soften any gunk. Then you can start cleaning the ears out using q-tips. Don’t go digging in parts of the ear you can’t see as this can cause damage to the internal ear. 

Now, here’s one part of grooming that not many people hear about until after they purchase their cavies: boar cleanings. Boar cleaning refers to the extra care male guinea pigs' genitals require (particularly their penis and perineal sac) as they get older. It’s somewhat difficult to explain the process of this so checking out these (x,x) links will give you an idea of what you’ll need to do for your boys as they get older. Be warned- the links aren’t necessarily pleasant to watch but they are a very important part of keeping male guinea pigs. Remember to check your male cavy’s ‘bits’ every four weeks and carry out a boar clean (or pay your vet to clean) as needed. 

Handling 

Guinea pigs don’t naturally enjoy being picked up. That being said, a well socialized cavy is far more likely to tolerate it than one that never leaves it’s cage. When picking a guinea pig up be sure to use one hand under their chest/behind their front legs and the other to support their bottom so that your pet feels secure and their spine remains aligned. From there you can bring you guinea pig up to your chest, using your free hand to hold them in place if they’re particularly skittish.

Though guinea pigs are often purchased as a child’s first pet I’d generally discourage young children from picking them up. Though guinea pigs aren’t particularly prone to bitting they can struggle and even scratch which could lead to your child dropping and seriously hurting a cavy. For kids I’d recommend having them sit down and have an adult place the guinea pig on their lap (a fleece bed could serve as an extra layer of protection so they don’t get dirty if the guinea pig decides to poo or pee on them). Having the cage at a level where your kid can pet their pets without taking them out of their cage is another option.

When petting your guinea pig try your best to stroke in the direction that their fur grows (easier said than done for wild haired abyssinians). Most guinea pigs dislike being pet on their rump as it’s a sign of aggression amongst others of their kind.  

Common Health Issues and Warning Signs

Guinea Pigs, like all animals, are prone to getting sick. Unfortunately the signs aren’t always obvious if you don’t know what to look for. Be sure to take you guinea pig for regular check ups (1-2 time a year) and call your vet if you suspect something’s wrong. 

The following are a list of common health issues to look out for: 

Respiratory Infections: This is one of the most significant conditions your pet may face. Stress, overcrowding, pregnancy and other illnesses are all risk factors for your guinea pig developing this condition. Consult your vet if your guinea pig stops eating, sneezes, has trouble breathing or presents with abnormal discharge from their eyes/nose (note that a milky white substance being secreted from their eyes is normal for healthy piggies).

Diarrhea: Diarrhea isn’t something to be taken lightly with cavies as they can quickly dehydrate and die. If your pet stops eating, playing, losing weight or presents with diarrhea they should be taken to the vet immediately.

Scurvy: Vitamin C deficiency is a subject I touched on earlier in the feeding category. If you notice your pet has a rough coat, stops eating, doesn’t walk, seems to be in pain, has swollen feet/joint or has bleeding ulcer on their skin/gums it’s likely they’re suffering from vitamin C deficiency. Consult your vet about the best way to supplement vitamin C into your guinea pig’s diet and adjust their food to provide more nutritionally balanced meals. 

Tumors/Abscesses: Though these are two different things they present in similar ways and often need surgical intervention to be fixed. If you notice any abnormal mass on your guinea pig contact your vet. 

Urinary Problems: Guinea pigs are prone to both urinary infections and the development of bladder/kidney stones. If you notice your pet stop eating, peeing blood, straining to pee, hunching over, small frequent urinations or no urination at all contact your vet immediately. 

Parasites & Skin Problems: Parasites (typically lice, mites, fleas and ringworm) are prone to making homes out of guinea pigs. If you notice your pet itching, losing hair or developing scabs contact your vet. 

Barbering: Barbering is when your guinea pig begins chewing it’s own (or it’s cage mate’s) hair. This is typically a sign of boredom that indicates your enclosure is lacking enrichment. Offer them more to do in the form of chew toys, balls or foraging opportunities. 

Bumblefoot: This condition, characterized by the development of infected sores on your guinea pig’s feet, has a deceivingly cute name. This most often happens with guinea pigs who are overweight, are kept on a wire bottomed cage or in unsanitary conditions. Treating bumblefoot is often difficult but by working with closely your vet can be cured. Over all though, it’s best to keep your pet in a clean, flat-bottomed cage to avoid the issue entirely. 

Spurs: This is characterized by the development of a flap of tough skin protruding from your pet’s feet. There don’t seem to be any risk factors and the spur itself isn’t painful and can be easily snipped off using nail clipper (just be careful not to get the skin). The real issue is that, if left untreated, they could get caught and tear the skin on their feet. This results in bleeding and even bumblefoot. 

Parting Words

Guinea pigs are wonderful little critters that’ll make the right owner very happy. If you do decide to bring a pair of these lovable pets into your life, consider rescuing a guinea pig from your local rescue! You’ll be surprised by the variety of guinea pigs you’ll find are looking for their forever home.