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A simple sandwich
Our final day in Lecce had arriven. One more visit with the real estate agent, whom we met at (what is by now) the usual bar at 10am. Before the bar, though some cleaning of the house and some packing of the bags. It was a 20 or so minute walk to the bar on the other side of the centro storico and the weather was mild. Actually, the weather has been pretty mild for almost all of our stay, each day peaking at around 15C and not dipping much below 6C at night. There have been a couple of windy days which made the apparent temp quite a bit lower, but what are puffer jackets for?
Cristiano had a beautiful apartment to show us, quite grand and with skylights and the view of a 14th C church, but well out of our price range. The second was quite a distance away, just out of the centro storico, by a street, but still from the early 1800s and very recently and sterilely renovated. This had the added feature of a family in residence sitting on the couch. I felt a little uncomfortable inspecting a small apartment with a kiddie on the couch and a woman in the laundry. We didn’t like it anyway - too ‘without feeling’.
It was round about lunchtime, so we headed home via Doppiozero, the cafe we have most frequented here for a simple sandwich, which we were pleased to be able to order even though they were not on the menu as such. Really, there’s a great amount of satisfaction in just being able to order a panini with the toppings you want in a foreign language AND to get the right thing delivered to you. Our post-prandial activities were apartment cleaning related, mopping the floors and suchlike. Pip did manage to put together a rather large bag of food that we either did not finish or open and took it across the vico to offer to the Signora, whom we suspected lived a frugal life and might like these items. Pip practised the Italian for “these are things we did not use and did not want to waste…” and the Signora accepted them gratefully. It wasn’t long before she knocked on our door with a packet of ground coffee wrapped in a paper towel for us to take back with us. I think she liked the stuff.
Our big decision for the day was to decide where we would have our final Leccese meal, and it wasn’t difficult to decide that, for the second time this week, we would attend Bar Moro. We really can’t sing it’s praises enough. I farewelled Lecce with a tender rib eye fillet and Pip with a swordfish steak, we had the grilled seasonal vegetables, which are beautiful, and the roasted potatoes. We even had dessert - Tira Misu and a chocolate soufflé. Digestives of Limoncello and smoked Grappa were what we toasted farewell to Lecce with. We had a little chat with the waiter on our way out, just to let him know we wouldn’t be stalking the place anymore, and he shook our hands and wished us Buon Viaggio.
In the morning, we had a schedule that would get us to the airport in Brindisi by about 10am for 11:15 flight to Rome. The Signora came out to bid us farewell and kiss the cheeks and we trundled to the car for the last time. The only stop before the airport (entire trip, by the way, done without Daniel the GPS) was to half fill the tank with diesel. The car had been supplied to us half full, or 4/8 full as the guys in Rome had written on the paperwork, and was required to be returned in a similar state. The car was returned to Europcar and despite a little consternation at the half-full tank (Pip thought they were worried that they’d have to fill it and Rome should have been paying) we made it to the safety of the airport cafe for a last pair of pasticiotti and a coffee.
We arrived in Rome and collected our luggage, fully prepared to catch the train to Trastevere station, but were sidetracked to a door-to-door shuttle at the train ticket box - €3 more for door-to-door is a good deal. The shuttle left immediately and was driven at great speed by a sleepy, old chap who had to keep opening the window to wake himself up, while he went through red lights and squeezed the minibus through tiny gaps in the Roman traffic. He deposited us at the Ripa Hotel in Trastevere and we deposited ourselves in a comfy, 2 bedroom suite on the 4th floor. Number big son was flying in from Paris and would meet us later, so we told him about the shuttle from the airport deal and went for a walk, ostensibly to find a simple sandwich. This time we new the simple sandwich we wanted, one with porchetta in it, but we couldn’t find the shop, I suspect it had closed since we last visited because it couldn’t be that we couldn’t remember where it was after three years. Further roaming in a very busy-with-American-tourists Trastevere found us the roman equivalent of a fast food joint that sold porchetta on pizza bread sandwiches, which was just the shot and very tasty.
We headed back to the hotel through Trastevere and via an area we hadn’t been in around Piazza di S. Cosimato, which is close to the Ripa and has quite a different feel to the rest of Trastevere. We spent the rest of the afternoon in the bar, sipping Spritz Aperols and eating olives and chips, until number big son called to say that the shuttle wouldn’t bring him to the Ripa, only to Termini, where he would have to catch a cab to join us. I reckon airportexpress.com is a bit dodgy, but I booked them to collect us at the hotel tomorrow to take us to the airport in the afternoon, which strangely cost more than the journey in.
Another drink to hail our reuniting with Reuben and some bar snacks for him, then it was time to head out for dinner (this seems to come around quicker in every story I write? It isn’t really the focus of our journey, honest). This time we decided to head back to Piazza di S. Cosimato and see what we could find. We found Restaurant Ai Spaghettari and we found its lamb cutlets, spaghetti carbonara and spaghetti with mussels and vongole most appealing - genuine local food - and tasty.
This is the final instalment of this travel tale. Suffice to say the journey home was long and if you ever have an airline tell you that an hour is sufficient at CDG in Paris to change from terminal 2F to 2E, pass through passport control and get to the furthest gate 53 without having your reservation cancelled and your seats given away, kick ‘em where it hurts.
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Satan in ebraico vuol dire avversario così anche per i massoni={LA GRANDE MESSA IN SCENA TRA QUESTA “Capitana mia capitana” e “Capitan Nutella Salvini”, ha prodotto fans nella sinistra oramai degenerata. Dietro un finto umanitarismo vi è la distruzione di popoli e culture secondo gli interessi iper capitalistici e i grandi progetti massonico mondialisti. Questa Carole Rachete che ha potuto sfidare impunemente le acque territoriale di una ITAYLAND, nazione di spaghettari e mandolinisti, priva di sovranità, è una esperta e ben istruita trentunenne tedesca della Bassa Sassonia, laureata in Gran Bretagna, di facoltosa famiglia per cui ha potuto frequentare ben tre università. Sostiene l'ideologia No Border (no ai confini) che è quella di una borghesia globalista, funzionale al grande business finanziario dei banksters. RICORDO SOLO CHE QUANDO POCHI ANNI FA ARRIVARONO VERSO LA PALESTINA UN PAIO DI NAVI queste si umanitarie!- PER PORTARE AIUTI, MEDICINALI E ALTRO AL POPOLO PALESTINESE SOTTO IL TALLONE SIONISTA, GLI ISRAELIANI GLI SPARARONO CONTRO E LE BLOCCARONO} Copia e incolla https://www.instagram.com/p/B3VIytDiOev/?igshid=1t01po1kxlv1m
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The best Diavola Pizza I've had till date 🍕😻 #Pizza #Diavola #ItalianCuisine #Italy #Pizzeria #Dinner #Cheese #Salame #Piccante #Spicy #AuthenticItalianFood #Foodstagram #Foodgasm #Foodporn #Foodlovers #Indian #IndianInItaly #Traveller #CitizenOfTheWorld #StrangerInStrangeLand #tourist #StudentTourist #StudentLife #StudyAbroad #Nightlife #Nocturnal #NightOut (at Ai Spaghettari)
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Sunset Trastevere Food tour Join us on a tasting adventure in one of the best gastronomic destinations in Rome. Loved by locals, Trastevere is a neighborhood renown both for its charm and food culture. The characteristic cobblestone streets and winding, narrow alleys are the perfect route for this sunset food tour in Rome. Savor the wide-range of scrumptious Roman delicacies- from traditional to innovative - and explore local, hidden gems as you taste your way around Trastevere. #foodtour #Rome #trastevere #explore #travel #authentic #best #Pasta #pizza #wine #supli #spaghettari #gelato #fatamorgana #jewishghetto #fish #cheese #ham #winetasting #small #intimate #grouptour #walkingtour #historical #art #architecture #photography #campodefiori (at Rome, Italy)
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Sunset Trastevere Food Tour Join us on a tasting adventure in one of the best gastronomic destinations in Rome. Loved by locals, Trastevere is a neighborhood renown both for its charm and food culture. The characteristic cobblestone streets and winding, narrow alleys are the perfect route for this sunset food tour in Rome. Savor the wide-range of scrumptious Roman delicacies- from traditional to innovative - and explore local, hidden gems as you taste your way around Trastevere. #foodtours #trastevere #authentic #local #healthy #pizza #pasta #gelato #group #tour #campodefiori#bestesenwalks#trastevereatsunset #supli #flowerzuchini #Rome #bestwalks #caccioepepe #Spaghettari #winetasting # (at Ai Spaghettari)
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Join us on a tasting adventure in one of the best gastronomic destinations in Rome. Loved by locals, Trastevere is a neighborhood renown both for its charm and food culture. The characteristic cobblestone streets and winding, narrow alleys are the perfect route for this sunset food tour in Rome. Savor the wide-range of scrumptious Roman delicacies- from traditional to innovative - and explore local, hidden gems as you taste your way around Trastevere. #traditional #trasteverini #local #experience #foodtour #culture #authentic #characteristic #winetasting #pizza #pasta #salami #cheese #supli #gelato #Rome #italy #healthy # (at Ai Spaghettari)
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Join us on a tasting adventure in one of the best gastronomic destinations in Rome. Loved by locals, Trastevere is a neighborhood renown both for its charm and food culture. The characteristic cobblestone streets and winding, narrow alleys are the perfect route for this sunset food tour in Rome. Savor the wide-range of scrumptious Roman delicacies- from traditional to innovative - and explore local, hidden gems as you taste your way around Trastevere. #spaghettari #travtevere #local #food #wine #Rome #neghborhood #authentic #pasta #pizza #gelato #supli #destination #travel #besttour #bestguide #everynight #architecture #Rome #2018 #homemade #visitus #explore #enjoy #livinglife #theeaternalcity #feellikealocal #wheninrome #edenwalks #jewishghetto #artisan #bio #
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Sunset Trastevere Food Tour Join us on a tasting adventure in one of the best gastronomic destinations in Rome. Loved by locals, Trastevere is a neighborhood renown both for its charm and food culture. The characteristic cobblestone streets and winding, narrow alleys are the perfect route for this sunset food tour in Rome. Savor the wide-range of scrumptious Roman delicacies- from traditional to innovative - and explore local, hidden gems as you taste your way around Trastevere. #foodtour #Rome #trastevere #everynight #adventureculture #winetasting #eatwithus #pizza #pasta #supli #arancino #authentic #Roman #romeunveiled #edenwalks #campodeifiori #jewishghetto #explore #traditionalfood #homemadefood #local #amatricina #carbonara #spaghettari #tastingadventure #gelato #fatamorgana #theonlyone #art #architecture #photography #ancient #medieval #Trastevererini #Romans #bacalafish (at Trastevere, Rome)
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