#seedling starter trays

[thegreenthumbnursery]

Green Thumb Nursery

Website: https://www.thegreenthumbnursery.com/

Address: Russellville, Arkansas

Green Thumb Nursery, located at Russellville, Arkansas, is a vibrant plant nursery passionate about greenery and gardening. Founded by Tammy Janssen, a retired elementary teacher with a profound love for gardening and creating serene green environments, the nursery offers a wide array of trees, shrubs, flowers, houseplants, succulents, and seasonal vegetable plants. Additionally, Green Thumb Nursery provides various services, including plant repotting, delivery of houseplants, landscaping, and engaging workshops and parties centered around plants and gardening. The nursery is not only a hub for plant lovers but also a community resource aimed at teaching others about gardening, canning, and creating their own green oasis.

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/GreenThumbNurseryRsvl/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/greenthumbnurseryar/

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[solarpunkani]

Saw your tags on that post about swamp milkweed about having trouble getting it started--you may already know this, but milkweed seeds need light to germinate! They only need a light dusting of soil on top of them (and putting them somewhere with a lot of light helps!); if you can't see the seed through the soil, it's buried a little too deep. They basically want to be laying flat on the surface of the soil rather than poked down into it, with just enough soil on top to help them retain moisture. Yes this does make it kind of annoying to manage moisture because you don't really want them drying out either (sorry 😭) but I hope this helps!! I mention it because this is the most common issue I see with people trying to grow milkweeds from seed. They also want 4 weeks of cold stratification (cool temperatures like in a fridge while also being in contact with moist soil; you can plant your seeds, pop the whole pot in a ziplock/cover it with cling wrap, and just refrigerate it for a few weeks) so don't forget to do that!

You know

it's really funny

because i like to call myself the self-proclaimed milkweed queen of tumblr (at least on my gardening blog but still)

And yet

I

constantly fucking forget about the light thing

IDK if that'll fix all my problems (the soil at my house is pretty sandy so I think that's the problem when it comes to transplanting at least) but regarding getting those little shits to germinate??? that might be the ticket

(one of the other problems I face sometimes is the seeds deciding to mold when they're in the fridge cold stratifying, i lost a good chunk of seeds to that last year but i don't see any signs of it happening yet this year so fingers crossed everyone)

[thcscout]

REAFOO Seed Starter Tray kit,Peat Pots for Vegetable & Flower,60 Cells Biodegradable Seedling Pots Germination Trays,Organic Plant Starter Kit with 30 Pcs Plant Labels…

【START INDOOR GARDEN】Starting an indoor garden is easy with our bulk pack of seeding pots. Perfect for starting flowers, herbs, and vegetable saplings like tomatoes and cucumbers 【100% BIODEGRADABLE】The material of the seedling pots are paper and grass charcoal,so our organic peat pots are easily degradable and completely recyclable 【MULTIFUNCTIONAL】Well-ventilated, water saving and drought-resistant. Watering appropriately, due to the seed starter tray can automatically absorb moisture from the air or quickly absorb water in soil. 【FEATURES】When the Seed Starter trays begin to degrade, the roots are also strong enough to penetrate them. It overcomes the common problems of crooked roots and rotten roots in the cultivation of seedlings with plastic pots. Finally, becoming organic fertilizer. 【SERVICE】If you have any problem with the REAFOO seedling trays, please contact us and we will reply you within 24 hours. Price:

Read the full article

[fox-bright]

Our species has spent thousands of years trying to get AWAY from subsistence farming!

I genuinely feel that anyone who gets starry-eyed over the notion of producing all their own food has 1) Never so much as tried to produce all they needed in a year of one item in their hobby garden, and 2) Never, ever, been truly hungry.

It being March, I have in my little indoor grow closet somewhat over a thousand seedlings now, all told--some small percentage of the pollinator-attracting companion plants like borage, marigold, and viola that I'll tuck in with my vegetables to increase my yield and to host parasitic wasps that will help keep the hornworms off my tomatoes. I have about a hundred tomato seedlings coming up, and thirty or forty peppers; each of those plants will need a minimum of a square foot, but more likely two feet in a row, to itself in order to prevent disease pressures from being too high. I'm finally getting my herb bed set up properly this year, so I have several hundred baby herblings going as well.

In two weeks I'll be starting more of other things; my zucchini and my heirloom pumpkins come to mind. And then when the last frost is over, I'll be putting seeds directly in the ground for more zucchini, for five different kinds of bean, for nasturtiums and borage and zinnia.

In addition, I start plants for various acquaintances--a good friend up-mountain who had to have brain surgery at Christmas, a schoolteacher whose district cut everyone's paychecks by a thousand dollars a month this year--for whom a vegetable patch eases the squeeze, during the warmer months.

What do I do with what I grow? Well.

I make, from scratch, my own egg noodles (linguine, fettuccini, wide and short for stew, and this year I'm learning ravioli and other filled noodles), my own alkali noodles (ramen, yī miàn and so on for East Asian dishes), my own bread (I keep two different sourdough starters), my own tortillas (both flour and corn). I make my own vinegar from the scraps of fruit or vegetables, and I use that in my cooking and dressings. I grow, process, and pressure-can all of the tomatoes for all the tomato sauce, dried tomatoes, etc, that this household eats in a year; a lot of that also goes into home-canned stews and chili and soups, of which, along with broths, I process many scores of jars a year for my household of two. I grow , dehydrate and grind all my own peppers for powder and chili oil and enchilada sauces. I grow all my own, blueberries, sour cherries, most of my own green beans (East Asian and otherwise), the summer squashes in the warm months, the cucumbers that I make into pickles to eat the rest of the year, all of the winter squashes (pumpkins, butternut, kabocha) that will be kept in the basement for months, or roasted, mashed and frozen for baking over the winter.

I make jellies, jams, and preserves from the fruit, and I freeze some to use as nearly-fresh all year (hence my ability to have blueberry muffins from scratch whenever I feel like an easy Sunday breakfast). I dehydrate and store hot peppers of twenty varieties, cherry tomatoes, various fruits.

I've started growing my own mushrooms, too.

All of this takes a TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF TIME. And of mental effort--how many trays of seedlings do you think it would take you, before you start forgetting what is what? Or do you really think you'd take the time to label every single well in twenty 72-well seedling trays, and then label the next trays two weeks later when you start up-potting things to 48 well trays, and again when you put them in five-inch pots?

And then, of course, the two weeks of backbreaking work getting everything into the ground. This year I'm also doing about two thousand flowers, largely plants to support our native pollinators.

And guess what--it doesn't matter how hard I work, sometimes my entire crop of tomatoes fails. Early blight, bad bug pressure, or most likely the climate instability gives everything blossom-end rot and I sit in the kitchen cussing, slicing the bad ends off of tomatoes that I can't pressure-can and may only bag up and throw into the freezer for slow processing throughout the year. Of course, having all those tomatoes in the freezer means I don't have room for the stuff that SHOULD be in there.

And sometimes the squashes all fail--like last year, when I got one single pumpkin and no kabocha, zucchini, butternuts, because of all the smoke coming down from Canada. Their blossoms wilted and died, their pollen ruined by the cloying miasma. Even in a year with good air, a single cucumber beetle might carry a virus that knocks out all your squashes in a couple of days.

Sometimes the rain doesn't come. Sometimes the rain comes too much. Sometimes both in a season, and you're left standing in the muck staring at the withered stalks of what should have been your food and is now a rotting mess.

This shit is really, really difficult. And to be clear, I am NOT TRYING, not even making the attempt, to produce all the food this household eats. It would be impossible. I don't have the room for the wheat for all the flour I use up in my bread and my tortillas! I don't have the room for the corn! I don't have the CLIMATE for the rice, which we buy in 50-lb bags.

All my work, all my thousands of hours, and if I had to produce everything we were eating, we would starve.

HALT!✋😐

did you remember to express gratitude for not having to subsistence farm today?

[joyful32]

How Do I Start a Hydroponic Garden for Beginners

Starting a hydroponic garden as a beginner is an exciting way to grow plants without soil. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you get started:

1. Understand the Basics

What is Hydroponics?: Hydroponics is a method of growing plants using a nutrient-rich water solution instead of soil. The plants' roots are either submerged in the solution or supported by an inert medium like clay pebbles or perlite.

Why Hydroponics?: This method allows for faster plant growth, higher yields, and the ability to grow plants in smaller spaces, even indoors.

2. Choose Your Hydroponic System

Wick System: The simplest system, where plants are grown in a medium, and nutrients are drawn up through a wick.

Deep Water Culture (DWC): Plants are suspended in a nutrient solution, and roots are submerged in water with an air pump providing oxygen.

Nutrient Film Technique (NFT): A thin film of nutrient solution flows over the roots, which are supported by a grow tray.

Ebb and Flow (Flood and Drain): The grow tray is periodically flooded with nutrient solution, which then drains back into a reservoir.

Recommendation for Beginners: Start with a Wick System or Deep Water Culture as they are simple to set up and maintain.

3. Select Your Plants

Best Plants for Beginners: Start with easy-to-grow plants like lettuce, spinach, herbs (basil, mint, cilantro), and strawberries. These plants are resilient and adapt well to hydroponic systems.

4. Gather Your Materials

Hydroponic System: Purchase a starter kit or DIY your system using materials like containers, a pump (if needed), and grow trays.

Growing Medium: Options include clay pebbles, perlite, vermiculite, or rockwool to support the plants.

Nutrient Solution: Buy a balanced, water-soluble nutrient solution designed for hydroponic gardening.

pH Testing Kit: Essential for maintaining the correct pH level (between 5.5 and 6.5) in your nutrient solution.

Light Source: If growing indoors, use LED grow lights or fluorescent lights to mimic sunlight.

5. Set Up Your Hydroponic System

Assembly: Set up your chosen hydroponic system according to the instructions, making sure everything is clean and well-positioned.

Add Plants: Place seedlings or cuttings in the growing medium, ensuring their roots are in contact with the nutrient solution.

Fill with Nutrient Solution: Mix your nutrient solution according to the instructions and add it to the system.

6. Monitor and Maintain

Check Water and Nutrient Levels: Ensure the nutrient solution covers the roots and top it up as needed.

Monitor pH and EC Levels: Regularly test and adjust the pH and electrical conductivity (EC) to keep the solution balanced.

Provide Light: Ensure your plants receive adequate light (12-16 hours per day) if grown indoors.

Watch for Pests and Diseases: Keep an eye out for any signs of pests or diseases and address them promptly.

7. Harvest and Enjoy

As your plants grow, harvest them regularly to encourage continued growth. Enjoy fresh, homegrown produce right from your hydroponic garden!

Final Tips:

Start Small: Begin with a small system to learn the basics before expanding.

Keep a Garden Journal: Track your plant growth, nutrient levels, and any issues that arise.

Stay Patient: Like any gardening method, hydroponics requires time and practice to master.

With these steps, you’ll be well on your way to creating a thriving hydroponic garden, even as a beginner!

[nbuflowersusa]

Grow Your Own Peppers: Plant Theatre Pepper Seeds Starter Kit - 6 Varieties for Indoor & Outdoor Gardens

Gardening enthusiasts and aspiring green thumbs alike, rejoice! With the Plant Theatre Pepper Seeds Starter Kit, you can cultivate a vibrant assortment of hot chili and sweet peppers right in your own indoor or outdoor garden. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or just starting, this comprehensive kit provides everything you need to grow a bountiful pepper harvest. Let's dive into the details of this fantastic starter kit and discover how it can help you achieve pepper-growing success.

Why Choose the Plant Theatre Pepper Seeds Starter Kit?

Variety and Versatility

The Pepper Seeds Starter Kit from Plant Theatre includes six different varieties of pepper seeds. This diverse selection allows you to grow hot chili peppers as well as sweet peppers, catering to a range of tastes and culinary uses. Whether you love the fiery kick of a chili or the mild sweetness of a bell pepper, this kit has you covered.

Perfect for Indoor and Outdoor Gardens

One of the standout features of this starter kit is its versatility. The seeds can be planted in both indoor and outdoor gardens, making it perfect for gardeners with limited outdoor space. If you live in an apartment or have a small balcony, you can still enjoy the satisfaction of growing your own peppers indoors.

Easy-to-Use Seed Starter Kit

The kit comes with everything you need to get started, including:

Peat Discs for Peppers: These peat discs make planting a breeze. Just add water, and they expand to create the perfect medium for your seeds to germinate.

Plant Markers: Keep track of your different pepper varieties with the included plant markers. This way, you'll always know which peppers are which.

Detailed Instructions: The kit includes comprehensive instructions to guide you through the planting and growing process, ensuring that even beginners can achieve great results.

How to Use the Plant Theatre Pepper Seeds Starter Kit

Step 1: Prepare the Peat Discs

Start by hydrating the peat discs. Place them in a tray or container and add water. Watch as they expand into a soft, soil-like medium perfect for your pepper seeds.

Step 2: Plant the Seeds

Once the peat discs are ready, plant your pepper seeds. Make sure to follow the included instructions for the optimal planting depth. Use the plant markers to label each variety.

Step 3: Provide Proper Care

Place your planted seeds in a location with adequate light. If you're growing indoor garden peppers, a sunny windowsill or a grow light setup will work perfectly. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged.

Step 4: Transplant and Harvest

As your seedlings grow, they may need to be transplanted into larger pots or directly into your garden. Follow the instructions for transplanting to ensure your plants continue to thrive. With proper care, you'll soon be harvesting a variety of delicious hot chili and sweet peppers.

Benefits of Growing Your Own Peppers

Freshness and Flavor

Homegrown peppers offer unparalleled freshness and flavor. When you grow your own, you can enjoy peppers at their peak ripeness, which enhances their taste and nutritional value.

Health Benefits

Peppers are packed with vitamins and antioxidants. Hot chili peppers, in particular, contain capsaicin, which has been linked to various health benefits, including pain relief and improved metabolism.

Satisfaction and Enjoyment

There's something incredibly rewarding about growing your own food. Watching your pepper plants thrive and produce beautiful, flavorful peppers is a fulfilling experience that brings joy and a sense of accomplishment.

Conclusion

The Plant Theatre Pepper Seeds Starter Kit is an excellent choice for anyone looking to grow their own peppers. With six varieties of seeds, easy-to-use peat discs, and the versatility to plant indoors or outdoors, this kit makes pepper gardening accessible and enjoyable for all. Whether you want to grow hot chili peppers for a spicy kick or sweet peppers for a milder taste, this starter kit has everything you need to get started.

[introversiontherapy]

Drove 30mins one way to a specific store to rectify this mould issue. I got these for very, very cheap at a nursery centre that primarily sells plants that have already grown that one could purchase. They also sell seeds but this store mainly profits from plants that are already grown in pots. Where they sold the seed starter supplies, was on a small table, there weren't many choices to choose from. And really, I should have known, but I am not going to beat myself up seeing as this is my very first time growing plants from seeds. Anyway, note to self, these peat boxes are NOT GOOD for seed starting. The spaces between them are small and tight and good ventilation cannot be achieved. I should have just cut them out into individual boxes, that would have been much better than leaving them in a 4x3 or 3x3 configuration. By the time I figured that out, some of the mould had already gotten past the peat and into the starter soil itself.

Back to the store that I live 30 mins away from. I'd been there once before and they only sell seeds, gardening and birding supplies, no plants. They had a much broader selection of seed-starting equipment, one that I have my eye on for next season, complete with its own heating pad! I bought new supplies today to change my peat set up...

I don't like that my answer is plastic, but since I already have seedlings growing, I am looking to relocate them for now but not to their forever homes yet. I needed a good foster environment for them to get stronger before I put them in planters or in the ground. I could have chosen this silicone seed starting tray that I saw, but they were a bit more expensive than cheap plastic and they were also very deep for some reason, meaning, I'd have to add more soil to fill up each box for the established seedlings to sit atop. The one good thing about those shitty peat boxes is that they allow the plants to transplant well, with little to no transplant shock. These plastic boxes do the trick well enough for now.

This is what my final set up looks like. The three separate peat boxes on the bottom, contain chervil seedlings that have just germinated. This is what I should have done with the ones I used previously. Ah well, you live you learn. There are two trays holding all of these flimsy boxes together. Both plastic, one is a black gridded type of thing that you can see and underneath that is a clear plastic lid. I thought this set up might be nice as water tends to leak out of the seedling boxes, which isn't a bad thing entirely (it's like watering from the bottom and from what I've read, this method is the best for seed starting). The black grid thing acts like a sieve and allows the structure of this set up easier to hold when I move them from place to place within the house. The plastic lid liner under that, acts like a waterproof layer so water doesn't get everywhere indoors.

I had transplanted my sweet peas (the flower kind, not the ones you can eat) into a wooden planter a while back! And no transplant shock! Indeed, they lived in those mouldy peat boxes before I set them free here. When I transplanted them, they were only about 3 inches tall, but look at them now!!! I'm so proud of these guys! I grew them from seeds!!!! That is what I've found very rewarding about this hobby--not only are seeds cheaper than buying already established plants, but I also get a real sense of accomplishment at seeing them grow from seed to beautiful fragrant plants that I can enjoy in the garden!

[shadowbroker]

Will preface with some set up details of my current indoor set up. I think the way that I have it now is (SEEMINGLY) optimal and I left out all the excess that I've purchased prior to this because I think it's not really important.

Major parts of my set up:

Ferry-Morse Pop-up Multi-Tier Indoor Plant Stand (x2) $49.00

Jiffy-Strips Seed Starting Greenhouse Kit, 50 Peat Cells (x3) $9.99

Ferry-Morse Indoor Grow Light Fixture with T5 Bulb 24 x 11in. (x6) $45.00

Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 10″ x 20.75″ MET Standard (x3) $17.99

12 Qt. Organic Seed Starting Kit (x6) $7.97

Ferry-Morse 18 Pot Seed Starting Tray Kit (x6) $7.47

Jiffy Seed Starting Watertight Plastic Plant Tray, 10.75" x 21"(x2) $1.99

The quantities are specific to me, I am joining a community garden and hoping for a 4x12x12 plot that I can put a chunk of the potential 150 seeds+ to and help foster and grow food in my community. I also didn't know what to do with the excess pepper I had form last year so I'm hoping to share the yields with my community this year.

The grow lights are objectively the most expensive part. I'm not considering the stands because of (again) the quantities I am growing seeds at. This could work with and existing shelf and these quantities:

1 Jiffy seed starting Greenhouse Kit 50 Peat Cells OR 1 Ferry Morse 18 pot seed starting tray Kit

2 Ferry Morse Indoor Grow Light Fixtures with T5 bulbs

1 Vivosun heating mat.

1 Jiffy Seed Starting Watertight Plastic Plant Tray

This could viably germinate a tray of 50 or a tray of 18. The 18 is because its bigger and the seeds and chill in there longer without transplanting until they need to go outside or in containers.

My indoor germination set up and thoughts will be below.

(Sorry if the picture is blurry)

I've taken on this hobby as a counteracting force in my time in the tech sector. I spend the majority of my time staring at computer screen so this helps remove me from that. I am by no means a master gardener or a master at this and even my current set up may have issues but its an iterative learning process for me. I started this a few years ago and have been advancing over the years to expand.

The second shelf has become storage, so it is not important.

Start with some comments on my initial set up and issues just as bullets:

Initially I got a grow light from Amazon, it is actually really good and I do recommend it but my problem is that i installed them too high and the mounting items it comes with was too long for the shelving i purchased. I mention this because when the grow lights are too far, the plants become too leggy.

I no longer like the seed starter kits that come with the peat pellets. I prefer to mix the soil with water myself and fill cells (its very cathartic). The pellet, sat least for me, usually got moldy fast, or was harder to manage. Anything i grew in them that were leggy were moved to the greenhouse to see if they'll make it to april. Some will some won't.

When my first group was leggy i got fans to help simulate breeze for them. I like these though I didn't include it in the list above but I do recommend it. Its USB with 3 speeds. I only use it on the first speed and for particular periods of time so the stems can strengthen.

The reason why there is an extra tray is so i can stack it under the heating mat to get the plants closer to the lights to prevent them from being leggy.

The last and most important thing I did was get an outlet with a timer. I hate that appliances all have apps and i resisted doing this but the earliest I wake is usually 10AM and I want the seeds to get at least 14-18 hours, so now I have it on a timer from 8AM to 1AM which is about 17 hours. Might change it to 9AM to 1AM but they're doing well under the current timer. (Yes it is bright).

I thought about investing in LED grow lights but I like that the Ferry Morse lights come with stands which is my primary reason for purchasing those specifically.

So the way this set up works.

I mix the seed starting soil in a container with water until is moist and fill a 50 cell tray

I record and put 2 seeds of the same type per cell. That is if the first cell in Bell Peppers, I put 2 bell pepper seeds and then "Thin" them later when they sprout.

Then i will place them on the raised heat mat with the cover while they are germinating.

Once they sprout or a majority sprout, i start taking off the cover periodically so there isn't too much water/mold and so that the new sprouts can breathe.

Once the new sprouts get their second set of leaves or have out grown their cells i move them to the larger 18 cell tray.

When they outgrow the 18 cell, I will move them to pots or a raised bed in the community garden.

This has been wildly successful for me. In my first 50 cell over 32/50 have sprouted or are sprouting. and I expect that the others will still sprout they're just a little more finicky (peppers, herbs).

I started the second set of 50 on the 15th (yesterday) and I already have at least 6 sprouting. I have one more tray of 50 I am probably going to start and use once my first tray had matured enough to move them up to 18 cell trays for space.

I am now considering investing in the 4th shelf for another spot for 18 cell trays.

Last thing I'll add is a list of things that have sprouted and are healthy:

Burpless Cucumber

Roma Tomato

Parris Island Lettuce

Classic Gold Sunflowers

Yellow Crookneck Squash

Grand Bell Mix Sweet Peppers

Habanero Hot Peppers

Baby Leaf Hybrid Spinach

Heirloom Jalapeno

Watermelon

Iceberg Lettuce

Salad Bowl Lettuce

Green Sprouting Calabrese Broccoli

Gardener's Delight Tomato

All Season Cabbage

Carrot

Iroquois Cantaloupe

Oregon Sugar Snow Pea

Rainbow Mix Ornamental Corn

Peter Pan F1 Squash

Crimson Sweet Watermelon

Large Red Cherry Tomato

Mammoth Russian Sunflower

All Sweet Watermelon

Clemson Spinless #180 Okra

Garden Sweet Burpless Hybrid Cucumber

Salad Slicer Cucumber

Tiger Eye Sunflower

Hot Salsa Blend (A mystery I guess)

Honey and Cream Sweet Corn

Mountain Sweet Yellow Watermelon

Butter-crunch Lettuce

Homemade Pickle Cucumber

German Chamomile

Next part of this is making a plan for whats getting potted and whats going to the Community Garden Raised Bed. I have been researching companions and how well they will do with others. I also now want to invest in Marigold which as I understand is a good garden companion.

I have more seeds that are on the way from another company and one of my work friends so that is what I am saving my last 50 cell for. After that I will probably start all seeds in 18 Cells for 1 and done transplanting.

I also have grapes and raspberries outside right now in large pots to see how they will fare this year.

[rjalker]

using old foil cake pans and plastic food tubs for starter trays we have started

50x canna seeds from orange flowered parent plants.

50x canna seeds from pink flowered parent plants

50x from golden canna

how many will actually grow? No clue. I got like 6 or 8 seedlings last year from a bunch of seeds, so the germination rate doesn't seem very high. Extra ones we don't want we'll sell or share with our neighbor because he loves plants

[docupots]

What Is The Easiest DIY For Eco-Friendly Seed Starter Pots In Colorado?

For individuals who are interested in sustainable living methods, Colorado is a paradise with its breathtaking scenery and environmentally conscientious population. Eco-friendly gardening habits are crucial, whether you're an experienced gardener or you're just learning about the pleasures of planting your own plants. Plus, in this article post, you will delve into the simplest do-it-yourself (DIY) technique for making seed starter pots in Colorado that are both eco-friendly and ideal for Colorado's particular climate.

The Easiest DIY For Biodegradable Seed Starter Posts In Colorado

You can create eco-friendly pots yourself with the help of simple hacks and DIYs. Further, a DIY has been shared below, with the help of which you can craft the pot. Have a look at this hack.

Materials Needed:

1. Newspaper

2. Scissors

3. A tiny jar or bottle

4. Soil

5. Seeds - whatever you want

Methodical Guide:

1. Assemble Your Supplies

Start by gathering old newspapers and ensuring no glossy prints are on them. Shiny paper is not as biodegradable and could include compounds that are harmful to seedlings.

2. Slice Off the Newspaper

A newspaper sheet should be spread out on a level surface. Cut the newspaper into strips with scissors that are each 4–6 inches wide.

3. Encircle the Jar

Encircling the bottle or jar with a newspaper strip leaves about 1-inch extra paper at the bottom. This extra will build your seed starter base of degradable seeding pots in Western US.

4. Condense the Extra Paper

To make the base for your seed starter pot, fold the extra paper toward the bottom of the jar. Apply pressure.

5. Take the Jar Out

Carefully remove the bottle or jar that has been wrapped in newspaper, revealing a paper cylinder. To maintain the shape, press the bottom folds firmly.

6. Carry Out the Procedure Again

To make as many seed starter pots as you'll need for your planting projects, repeat the method.

7. Add soil.

Set the bio degradable pots in a tray or another container for stability. Make sure to leave space at the top of each pot for your seeds and fill it with your favorite potting soil.

8. Sow Your Seeds

Plant your seeds in environmentally friendly pots according to the directions on the seed packets. Give them a light mist to encourage germination and set them in a sunny area.

9. Getting a transplant

You can either transfer your seedlings straight into the ground or into larger pots with newspaper and all when they are robust enough. With time, the paper will break down and add another layer of organic matter to the soil.

Search For A Known Shop To Buy Degradable Plant Pots!

By embracing this straightforward DIY project for seed starter pots in Colorado, you reduce your environmental footprint and contribute to our beloved Colorado's beauty and sustainability. As you notice that your seeds sprout and grow, take pride in knowing that you've taken a simple yet impactful step towards eco-friendly gardening in the Centennial State. Happy planting! You may consider Docupots for the best plant pots. For more details, call them right away!

[ediblegardenspointloma]

Sowing Seed for the Harvest

This was the week to plant my cauliflower seeds, a little later than usual because of a vacation. I’m thinking of the large heads of Romanesco, Amazing and DePurple cauliflower of other years and the ones I’ll harvest in a few months.

I’ve written about The Pleasures of Growing From Seed and many other pieces on the subject. Check over a dozen other blog posts about growing from seed at ediblegardens52.

Over the years I’ve started seeds in six packs for later transplant in a variety of ways. I learned from other gardeners, blog posts and books. Eventually, I settled on a way that works for me. We all do that. But maybe I’ll learn or invent another alteration down the line. Gardening is about experimentation. I hope this brief tutorial can be helpful for you.

Here’s how I do it (for USDA Zones 9 and 10). Check Johnny’s Seeds Guidelines for Starting Seeds Indoors if you garden in cooler USDA Zones. 1. Select an organic seed starting mix. No garden soil or compost. That’s for later. 2. Wash and scrub your six packs or other containers with a small brush. Sanitizing with bleach solution is usually recommended. Honestly, I don’t take the time and usually splash bleach on my clothes. 3. Moisten your seed starting mix with warm water, mix and fill the containers. Seed mix should be damp but not soggy. Level and pat down lightly. Refill as needed to bring the level up.

4. Check the seed packet for planting depth and choose an implement to make a small hole(s) in each cell. For cauliflower, planting depth is 1/4 inch so I used the eraser on a pencil. I could easily gauge the depth of my mini plunge. For tiny seeds like lettuce (1/8 inch planting depth), I just make a slight depression in the seed mix and place my seed. 5. Sift some of the seed starting mix into a container to remove larger chunks. I have various retired kitchen and lab items items that are useful.

6. Then with a small spoon or your fingers distribute some of the sifted compost—the amount depending on the seed size and depth of planting. Press down lightly for good seed to starting mix contact. 7. Place starter packs in water-tight tray and add about 1/2 inch of water for the seed mix to absorb. If not absorbed in a day or so, empty tray.

8. Choose a location to await germination. The optimal temperature for seed germination and your options will determine your choice. My cauliflower seeds are in the garage on a counter where the temperature ranges from 70-80 degrees F. In the past I’ve put the tray in a shady location outside but then need to cover to prevent the cells from drying out. A sunny window in the house is often my winter option.

9. As soon as some of the seeds germinate move the six-pack to bright light outside to avoid leggy growth. Attend to moisture needs. Often a spray bottle can keep soil surface appropriate for germination. 10. Transition plants to bright shade/part sun/sun over time and protect appropriately. This time of year in Southern California cabbage moths will lay eggs and their worms can heavily damage young seedlings. Check seedling leaves for damage frequently. Here’s one method that works for my brassicas.

11. When seedlings develop their first true leaves (the second set of leaves) water with a diluted liquid organic fertilizer like fish emulsion or seaweed-fish emulsion. When your seedlings reach 3-4 inches they can be transplanted to the garden.

Another tip: Sometimes, I have leftover seed from previous seasons and its viability is questionable. I could do a germination test but instead I usually plant old and new seed in the same cell. Later, I select for the strongest seedling and snip the weaker plant with scissors.

For more pro tips check Successful Seed Germination at San Diego Seed Company. Johnny’s Seeds has an excellent Grower’s Library.

[whiskeynovember]

Something broke my shishito pepper plant. i am so upset about that one. it was by far my tallest plant grown from seed. half of the stem and 3 leaves are left and I honestly don't know if it will survive.

i think this was an actual animal... but fuck. fuck

fuck. 😭

I'm spraying them all down now with a pepper/garlic/ vinegar solution. I'm so done with whatever is trying (and succeeding) in obliterating my pepper plants.

i planted the rest of the Indian eggplant seedlings. they seemed like they were starting to die in the starter trays. i planted all of them so I have 3 new spots, but one has 2 plants and the other one I don't expect to survive, tbh, the leaves are starting to crisp. i do need to go out and collar them, though, since I'm still having a cutworm issue.

had to re-pole my tomatoes and will have to do a few more tomorrow. it was getting too hot and I was getting frustrated. i honestly have too many tomato plants. i could have had 4 and it would have been more than enough... i have 11 or 12... or 13.

did some maintenance on the dill. I'll have to reseed, but I'm not sure where I want to put it. i don't think I want to put them in the corners (that might actually be the best place to keep it, though.)

oh, and guess what I found out? my 2 kabocha plants are actually one kabocha and one... something else. I saw the flowers and they are definitely some kind of yellow small petal melon flower... alot like the cucumbers. Not a yellow long petal squash type flower.

good to know, i guess. i wonder what kind of melon it is.

[lizziempumpkins]

Week 1

Sunday June 18, 2023 at 4:50 PM I planted over 32 Renee's Garden "Mini Jack" seeds in 16 seedling pots with seed starter potting mix and fertilizer. I obtained everything locally at DIY Home Center in Burbank, CA. After thoroughly watering the soil, I placed the tray under my grow light (Durolux DLED824W LED Grow Light - 2 Feet x 1 Foot 80W with White 5500K FullSun Spectrum) next to a window with my holiday cactus. I saved the packet of "Early Sugar or Pie" seeds just in case this batch did not germinate.

Five days later, the first sprout appeared around lunchtime on Friday, June 23, 2023! I repotted this seedling in its own pot, lightly watered it, and placed it back under the lamp next to the other plants by the window. As an experiment, I planted two Sugar Pie seeds in a pot.

After an evening out, I came back to find the 2nd sprout. I left it alone in case any more sprouts appeared soon after. Two more sprouts had poked through by 10:00 AM the following day (06/24/2023). When I repotted those, I found a pale seedling germinating below the soil's surface, so I may have at least five plants if all survive. Harvest day is projected to be 100 days from 06/18/2023, around Tuesday 09/26/2023.

[chappythegardener]

Purple Bumblebee Tomato Seeds

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[thesketchykids]

In this video, we'll take a close-up look at the exciting moment when basil seeds begin to sprout and grow into healthy seedlings. Join us as we document the first signs of life in our basil seed starter trays, providing insights and tips along the way. We'll start by showing you how to properly prepare your soil and sow your basil seeds, ensuring optimal conditions for germination. Then, we'll fast forward a few days to show you the first hints of green peeking through the soil, as the basil seeds begin to sprout and grow. As the basil seedlings continue to grow, we'll offer tips and tricks for watering, fertilizing, and providing the ideal growing conditions. We'll also share common mistakes to avoid and provide troubleshooting advice for common issues that may arise during the seedling stage. Throughout the video, we'll emphasize the importance of patience and attention to detail when growing basil seedlings, as well as the satisfaction that comes with nurturing and watching these tiny plants thrive. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or a beginner, this video will inspire and educate you on the joys of growing your own herbs from seed. by Sketchy Kids