#savella stechishin

[jazzeria]

I learned how to make pyrizhky from a friend using this recipe* from Traditional Ukrainian Cookery by Savella Stechishin (this book is a national treasure btw).

* the online recipe is undoubtedly copied from Traditional Ukrainian Cookery; but in book, the amount of yeast is "1 package" (which is about 2.25 teaspoons); yeast enhancers are omitted; and the original salt is 1.5 teaspoons.

And then I made a metric shit tonne of pyrizhky:

But I also lost track of what fillings went where, so we'll call it Ukrainian Roulette:

Fillings:

Mushroom

Sauerkraut (which may also contain farmer's sausage)

The recipe below is copied directly from the Ukrainian Classic Kitchen forum link above:

Pyrizhky are well-liked pastries with a filling. Pyrizhky are usually made of yeast-raised dough but for important occasions, puff pastry or short pastry may be used. 

1 teaspoon sugar 1/4 cup lukewarm water 1/4 teaspoon powdered ginger or pinch of citric acid (vitamin C) or both as a dough enhancer  (optional) 1 Tablespoon active dry yeast

1 cup scalded milk 1/4 cup butter or shortening or oil 2 eggs, beaten 1 teaspoons salt 1/4 cup sugar 4 1/2 to 5 cups sifted flour

To make pyrizhky, cut off small egg-sized pieces of dough, flatten each or roll 1/4 inch thick. Place a generous portion of the filling in the center, bring the edges together, and press to seal securely -- All edges must be free of filling.

NOTE: (I wet the edges with beaten egg white for a better seal and with well floured fingers seal the dough). I then roll the pyrizhky between my palms and seal again with well floured fingers at the seam again -- this prevents the pyrizhky from opening (double sealing).

Shape into an oblong with a plump center and tapering ends and place sealed side down on a well buttered parchment lined pan. This is the traditional shape of pyrizhky.

As an alternative method, the dough may be rolled 1/4 inch thick, cut into squares, filled, and sealed as directed.

Place, sealed side down, on a greased baking sheet, spacing them 1 to 1 1/2 inches apart. Cover and let them rise in a warm place until light, for about 1 hour.

Brush them with a beaten egg diluted with 2 tablespoons of water or milk. Bake in a moderate oven on the second level (375°F) for 30 to 35  OR (350º F. ) on the first level for about 25 to 35 minutes depending on their size. Makes about 22 to 24.

COOKED MEAT FILLING: (Nachinka z varenoho abo pechenoho miasa.

Use any kind of cooked ground meat (pork, veal, beef, chicken).  Combine the meat with a chopped or grated onion, cooked in butter or bacon fat. Butter gives a much better flavour.  Add a little gravy to moisten the mixture sufficiently.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  If desired, a small quantity of any one of the following may be added:  Cooked rice, chopped cooked mushrooms, hard cooked eggs, chopped fine.  For additional flavouring, parsley or dill may be used.

MEAT FILLING:

1 medium onion, chopped fine 4 tablespoons butter (divided) 1 pound ground beef, or half pork and half beef, or even left over cooked meat 1/2 teaspoon salt Pepper to taste 1 tablespoon flour 1/2 cup stock or water 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 2 hard cooked eggs, chopped

Cook the onion in half of the butter until it is tender. Add the remaining butter and the meat. Brown the meat lightly. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook over a low heat until done. Remove the meat. Stir the flour into the drippings. Add the soup stock or water, then cook, until the sauce comes to a boil. Combine with the meat and cool. Mix in the parsley and chopped eggs. For the above recipe I used leftover meat which I chopped up and added the same ingredients as above for meat filling.

SAUERKRAUT FILLING:

If you wish you can add other ingredients to your kapusta.  Sometimes I add a handful of seedless raisins, grated carrots, a teaspoon of brown sugar or fried mushrooms.  I like to use half and half olive oil and butter for the fat.

1 1/2 to 2 quarts sauerkraut 1 large onion, chopped fine 4 to 5 tablespoons fat Salt and pepper.

Rinse the kraut well in warm water, squeeze dry, and chop finely. Cook the onion in the fat until tender. Add the kraut and cook it for about 15 minutes, or until the kraut is tender but not overcooked. Season to taste with salt and pepper. For a mild flavored filling, add some fresh cabbage that has been cooked, squeezed dry, and chopped. This filling should be dry.

COTTAGE CHEESE FILLING:

Press the cottage cheese through a sieve or mash it well. Add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Use with a yeast-raised dough.

MUSHROOM FILLING:

2 pounds mushrooms 1 onion, chopped fine 4 tablespoons butter 1/3 cup sour cream 1 cup soft bread crumbs 1 tablespoon chopped dill 2 hard cooked eggs, chopped 1/4 teaspoons salt Pepper to taste

Clean and wash the mushrooms.  Cook  the wild variety of mushrooms in boiling water for 5 minutes and then drain thoroughly. Cultivated mushrooms need not be boiled. Chop the mushrooms very finely. Cook the onion in the butter until tender. Add the mushrooms and cream; cook over a low heat for 15 minutes. Stir in the remaining ingredients. Season to taste and cool the mixture. If the filling is crumbly, a raw egg may be added. This filling is good with a short pastry.

LIVER FILLING:

1 pound veal liver, sliced 1/4 pound bacon, sliced 1 onion, ground 1/2 cup soft bread crumbs 1/3 cup milk Salt and pepper

Scald the liver, drain, and remove the membrane. Cook the bacon until crisp and remove it from the pan. Cook the liver and onion in the hot bacon fat until the liver is browned on both sides and the onion is tender. Grind the liver, onion, and bacon. Soak the bread crumbs in the milk and combine with the liver mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper. an egg may be added to this mixture, if desired. Chill the filling when using it with a short pastry.

GREEN ONION FILLING:

4 cups green onions, cut fine 3 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup chopped dill 3 hard cooked eggs, chopped 1/4 teaspoon salt Pepper to taste

Cook the onions in the butter until wilted. Stir in the dill and cook for 1 minute. Remove the onions from the range, add the eggs, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Use this filling with yeast-raised dough.

CABBAGE FILLING:

1 large head cabbage 1 tablespoon salt 1 onion, chopped 1/3 cup butter 1 tablespoon lemon juice Salt and pepper 2 hard cooked eggs, chopped

Shred the cabbage very finely, sprinkle with salt, and let it stand for 15 minutes. Squeeze it dry. Cook the onion in the butter until tender. Add the cabbage and cook until it is tender but not overcooked. Mix in the lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the hard cooked eggs. If desired, some chopped, cooked ham or chopped, cooked mushrooms may be added to this filling in place of eggs. Use the filling with yeast-raised dough or short pastry. Allow a generous portion of the filling when making pyrizhky because cabbage settles in baking.

SAVORY CHEESE PYRIH:

Prepare 1/2 recipe of yeast-raised dough for Pyrohy and Pyrizhky, or use bread dough when making bread. Use Cottage Cheese Filling and add to it about 1/2 teaspoon of caraway seed, if desired. A tablespoon of grated, mature onion may be used in place of the green onions. The cheese should be delicately flavoured with onion.

Roll the dough 1/2 inch thick to fit a 10 x 15 inch baking pan. Butter the pan and place the dough in it. Cover and let it rise until almost double in bulk. Spread with the cheese filling and sprinkle the top with melted butter. Cover and let it rise for about 20 minutes. Bake in a moderate oven (375 degrees F.) for 30 to 35 minutes. Cut into squares and serve warm.

COTTAGE CHEESE ZAVYVANTSI (rolls):

Prepare the dough as for Pyrohy and Pyrizhky or use bread dough when making bread. Prepare Cottage Cheese Filling. Some chopped green onions may be added to the filling, if desired. Roll the dough 1/4 inch thick, keeping it in a long and narrow rectangle. Spread with the filling and roll it up like a jelly roll. Seal the edges. Cut into 1 inch pieces. Dip each piece in melted butter and place, cut side up. in a buttered baking pan or buttered muffin pans. cover and let them rise in a warm place until light. Bake in a moderate oven (375°F.) for 30 to 35 minutes, or until done. Serve warm.

ONION ROLLS:

Prepare the dough as for Pyrizhky. Roll the dough 3/4 inch thick and cut out rounds with a large cookie cutter. Sprinkle the top of each round with a finely chopped onion. Press the onion pieces into the dough. Place the rolls on a greased baking sheet and brush with melted butter. Let them rise until very light. Bake in a moderate oven (375°F.) for about 25 minutes, or until done. Serve warm with soup or coffee.

NOTE:  If you have a bread machine you can make this dough recipe http://www.ukrainianclassickitchen.ca/index.php?topic=8457.msg9323#msg9323

SHORT PASTRY FOR PYRIZHKY:

2 cups sifted flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons butter or shortening 1 egg yolk 2 teaspoons lemon juice 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water

All the ingredients should be very cold. Fillings should be cold. Sift the flour with the salt. Cut in the butter or shortening with a pastry blender until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Combine the yolk with the lemon juice and water. Sprinkle the liquid over the flour and mix lightly until the dough holds together. Chill thoroughly. Roll the dough 1/4 inch thick and cut into squares or rectangles of the desired size. Have the filling ready. Place a portion of the filling in the centre, bring the edges together, and seal in a neat ridge along the centre. Place, sealed side up, on a greased baking sheet. Brush with a beaten egg diluted with 2 tablespoons of water or milk. Bake in a hot oven (400°F) for 15 to 20 minutes.

[niniprytula]

Rosehip & Almond Torte

This is the cake I make every year for Christmas Eve. It is a ridiculous beast that is frankly, absurdly expensive to make due to the ingredients but it is so, so worth it, and it's the perfect light, not-too-sweet finale for the monument to excess that is the traditional Ukrainian Christmas Eve dinner as made by my family.

The base of the sponge recipe is from Savella Stechishin's Traditional Ukrainian Cookery, but I've made so many changes over the years that it is no longer recognizable as such. A Torte of Theseus, if you will. The frosting is completely my own invention, with thanks to Deb Perelman of Smitten Kitchen for the idea to stabilize the whipped cream with sour cream.

Sponge

16 eggs, separated 2 cups powdered sugar 3 cups almond flour 1/2 cup all purpose or gluten-free 1-for-1 flour (whichever you like, does not affect texture or taste at all) 2tsp grated lemon rind 2tsp grated lemon rind 2tbsp lemon juice Pinch salt

Line 3 8-9" circular cake pans with parchment paper (one circle on bottom, and then a strip around the sides, leaving enough to overlap. Use a plain metal paperclip to hold the ends together if necessary). Preheat oven to 350F degrees.

With a stand- or hand-mixer, beat egg yolks until very light. Add sugar gradually and beat constantly until light and fluffy. Stir in the nuts, flour, lemon rind, lemon juice, and salt. Set aside.

With a meticulously clean and dry bowl and whisk attachments, beat egg whites into stiff peaks. 

Transfer nut mixture to a large bowl. With a rubber spatula, gently fold in egg whites one large dollop at a time, being careful not to knock the air out. It will take a while as the nut and egg yolk mixture has the texture of wet concrete. Good arm work out!

Once all egg white is incorporated, evenly divide batter between the three pans. They will be quite thin layers. Bake for approximately 30 min or until golden on top and springy to the touch. They will be domed on the top when they are baked. The sponges will shrink back to flat once removed from the oven. This is normal and will not affect the texture of the sponge. Let stand a few minutes in the cake pans before removing to cool on a cake rack. Let cool completely before assembling.

Frosting

16oz heavy cream 1/8 cup sour cream 1/2 cup powdered sugar 2tsps rosewater 1/4c rosehip fruit spread (D'arbo brand) 

NB: you could probably do this with any flavor profile and sub out the rosewater and the preserves but keep the measurements the same; just use seedless jam or fruit spread

Make whipped cream with the heavy cream and the powdered sugar. I use my stand-mixer for this but you could do it by hand. When it is fluffy, add the sour cream, the rosewater, and the rosehip spread. Do not overbeat or you will have very delicious butter.

When assembling the torte I usually add a layer of the rosehip spread to each layer of the torte before adding the frosting, just for some extra zing and moisture.

Ideally you'd refrigerate the cake if you have leftovers and then let come back up to room temp when you serve it, but to be perfectly honest I've left this cake covered in a cool room for a few days and neither I nor the cake suffered for it.