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We independently evaluate all recommended products and services. Any products or services put forward appear in no particular order. if you click on links we provide, we may receive compensation. The Iron Snail The Three Pairs: What We’re Looking At Today We have $1,300 Levis from the 1960s. The denim is fluffy, the hems look like rope, and this is also the year that Levis cheaped out. We also have supposed exact replicas of those jeans from Levi’s, and they now sell for $260. Lastly, we have just regular old boring Levi 501s that sell for $80. Everyone says, “Levi’s quality went downhill. They don’t make them like they used to”, and that’s true in some ways, but in other ways, the $80 jeans are built better. So today is a certified jeana-palooza. The Iron Snail Setting the Scene: Moon Landings to Brooklyn Hello everyone, it’s Michael. It’s a beautiful day. I’m feeling fantastic, and if these jeans could talk, the story that they would tell – from probably being worn on the day humanity watched the first man ever land on the moon to now being in my Brooklyn apartment where I was smelling them to see if I could detect signs of natural indigo versus synthetic indigo (I couldn’t, by the way). For my entire life, I have heard the phrase “they don’t make this like they used to” – Levis, Carhartt, Eddie Bauer, everything is not made like it used to be made. So I would like to put all of that to the test if you don’t mind. The Iron Snail Quick Comparison: The Three Pairs Head-to-Head Product Key Features Materials Strength/Durability Price 1960s Levi’s Jeans Higher stitch count, solid copper rivets,selvedge denim from Cone Mills, unsanforized. Long cotton fibers, steel buttons,Jacron patch. Durable but prone to leg twist;pocket bags made from heavy material;no bartacking on back pockets. $8 (equivalent to $80 today) LVC (Levi’s Vintage Clothing) Replicas Attempt to replicate vintage features,selvedge denim from Japan, unsanforized. Mimics vintage denim, modern Jacron patch,steel buttons. Comparable to vintage in stitch countand material weight; moderate leg twist. $260 Modern Levi’s 501 Bar tacking, zinc alloy buttons,uses projectile loom denim. Short cotton fibers, lower-cost materials,Jacron patch. Strong but lacks vintage charm;minimal leg twist; improved bartacking. $80 Quick Shoutout to the Vintage Jean Guy I made a new friend – I don’t know if he wants me to say his name online, but “[email protected]” – email him if you have old jeans or anything of the like. He’d love to buy them. He is a vintage Levis, Wrangler, Carhartt (whoever it may be) reseller, and he gets the craziest pieces that I have ever seen. The Evolution of the Patch: From Leather to Jacron The Iron Snail We will begin with the smallest detail first and then get to the big baddies like stitching, like denim quality, if one is actually stronger – all that we’ll get into in a second. But first, there are some small differences, which is nothing that you’d really notice, honestly. The Iron Snail The ’60s was a point where leather patches at Levis were already kind of out the door. They reintroduced them on their modern premium line, but I actually really like the patches that they use now. All of these patches are called paper patches, but they are not actually paper, and they are not cardboard – they are made out of Jacron. It was made in the ’60s, but now it is being looked into as an alternative for plastic materials in general because it does biodegrade over time. Jacron is an extremely strong mix of cellulose fibers like in plants and natural rubber. At least Levi says it’s natural rubber, not synthetic. Jacron patches hold ink better; they hold up for a pretty long time, but leather patches hold up for a much longer time. Handmade vs. Machine-Made: The Arcuate Detail The Iron Snail Next up is the arcuate. This does not affect the durability of the jeans at all, but if you pay attention here, there’ll be something you notice at the end when we’re talking about stitching. The 1960s one looks like it was done by hand – it’s not totally even, one side is lifted a little higher, and it looks like the LVC line (the Vintage Recreation) tried to do something similar but in a more machined way. I don’t think that’s done by hand, and then obviously, of course, the shape on the modern ones is perfectly symmetrical. Nothing is out of place, and it’s exactly even. I bet between a thousand pairs of jeans; there is so little variation between the designs that you can’t even notice. The Iron Snail Correction: After thinking about this for 3 more seconds, I realized they were all done by machine, but I think Levi’s changed the pattern over time. I’m sorry about that. Sizing Mysteries: The ’60s vs Today The Iron Snail There are two things about the fit of the 1960s jeans. The second one is a really weird fact I don’t understand, but the first one is vanity sizing in the ’60s – not a thing. So, the same size back then was smaller than it is today. The really weird thing, though, which, to be honest, I have no idea why Levis did this, and maybe other brands did it too at the time, is the jeans are 2 inches shorter than the length that is on the back tabs. The Small Details That Changed Everything The Iron Snail And finally, to wrap up the small section: number one, you’ve probably heard about this before – the red tab on the back of the ’60s jeans and the LVC jeans, that is in capital letters. Now it’s lowercase, just the L is big. Big whoop. The button material between modern Levis and vintage Levis changed – the old ones were steel, the new ones are, I think, a zinc alloy or something of the sort. But the ’60s were really the year that Levis changed a bunch of things anyway. Before the 1960s, the rivets on Levis were 100% solid copper. Now, the front is copper, and the back is aluminum. Cheaped out a little bit, Levis, didn’t you? The Iron Snail Okay, anyways, enough with the small crap. Let’s get serious. Let’s stop talking about cellulose and rubber, whatever that stuff is. Let’s talk about if these jeans are actually better and go over the big-boy details. The Stitch Count Showdown The Iron Snail Stitches per inch – usually higher is better. That’s not true in every single scenario; there are also different ways to have very strong garments, but when we are comparing the 1960 Levis to the modern ones, the 1960 ones, for the most part, have a higher stitch-per-inch count everywhere, and I believe on modern premium Levis, that is where you get an equivalent amount of stitches per inch as vintage. LVC Levis for almost $300 seems to come close or be exactly the same. So point #1 goes to 1960s Levi’s. Pocket Bags: The Hidden Quality Marker The Iron Snail Okay, so if Levi’s corporate is watching this, uh, I promise that modern-day Levis will have a comeback at the end, but right now, another point goes to 1960s and LVC jeans because the pocket bags – the bags that you put things in your pockets in – they’re made out of a much beefier, heavier material that they lasted from the ’60s to today. I don’t think modern Levis would, although these vintage jeans have not been worn a ton. It is, in general, just a better, beefier material than what we’re using today. The Selvedge Situation: Cone Mills to Japan The Iron Snail Obviously, the 1960s Levis used selvedge denim, the modern ones do not, and the LVCs use selvedge denim from Japan. The original Levis from the ’60s used denim from Cone Mills, which is the most famous US manufacturer of denim of all time, so it was a really big deal when they went out of business. Levis didn’t save them – I don’t know if they could have, but they didn’t either way. The Loom Revolution: How Denim Production Changed So, very quickly, let’s compare shuttle looms to projectile looms and modern looms that we use today. Shuttle looms are four times slower than projectile looms. They also produce half-width denim, so modern denim is 60 inches, and selvedge denim is 30 inches. Each yard of denim makes fewer jeans and is more expensive, so Levi switched to projectile looms, which can literally print denim out – it is incredibly fast. Pretty vs. Practical: The Truth About Old vs. New Denim The Iron Snail The real benefit of selvedge denim now in modern days is that it’s pretty – it looks like the actual denim is finished, and you didn’t do a messy stitch over it to make sure it doesn’t unravel or anything like that. What really matters is a lot of these old machines couldn’t make perfect denim like we can make today. The denim back then was a lot prettier, but that does not necessarily mean it was more durable – it could actually be less durable than the robotic denim made today. The Cotton Fiber Debate The Iron Snail Interestingly, vintage denim uses longer cotton fibers that take longer to grow and are also stronger because there’s more friction when they are all wound together tight, while modern fabric is meant to be grown really fast, so it uses shorter fibers that are not as strong. So there’s a push and pull either way. So, the durability of the denim without extensive testing, which I can’t do on the Vintage Levis, is TBD. The Shrinkage Factor and Leg Twist The Iron Snail All three of these jeans are unsanforized – that means they were not treated for shrinkage at all. They will shrink up to 10% when you wash them for the first time, and the leg twist on the Vintage Levis is insane. The leg has almost completely rolled over to the other end, which does not happen with LVCs – you can get some leg twist, but it’s moderate – and it barely happens at all with modern Levis. Modern Wins: The Bartacking Revolution The Iron Snail Is there any place in modern Levis that beats vintage Levis? Yes, it is called bartacking. Bartacking has been around for a while now. In the ’60s, it was not around for that long, and you’ll see there are rivets obviously on the front part of your pants. They used to also be on the back pockets because that is what set Levis apart. That is what made their jeans so strong. It wasn’t just stitching that could rip apart easily – it was riveted like a boat, it was super strong, you couldn’t pull them apart with two horses. The Evolution of Strength: From Rivets to Bar Tacks The Iron Snail Technology and stitching, in general, got better, and the bar tack was invented, which is equivalent essentially to the rivet. So, the rivets on the front of the pants that you are wearing right now are decorative. You could just bar-tack those. Uniqlo does a lot of bar tacking and not a lot of riveting, but with all that being said, these vintage ’60s Levis were some of the first Levis that had bar tacks on the back pockets instead of rivets, it was just not as robust as it was today. You’ll see that the bar tack on Modern Levis goes all the way through the top of the jeans to the bottom, and on Vintage, I think they skipped a layer of denim because they didn’t have a machine that could go through all of that denim. Correction and/or edit: The belt loops on the vintage jeans are all bar tacked all the way through, so I think it’s more possible that Levi’s hid the bar tack for style, although it is not as durable. The Price Factor: Then vs. Now The Iron Snail Levis, in the 1960s, went for $8. Adjusted for inflation today, that is just about $80, which I did not expect to be exactly the same price as they are today. It looks like they adjusted perfectly for inflation over time. Same thing with Wranglers – I think they went for $5. Today that gets to $50 or close to there, and it’s exactly the same. It’s not the same thing with Filson – Filson, technically, by inflation, should be $124, but it’s closer to $500. But I will say Filson did stay in the US, and I am making clothes in the US right now – it is very expensive, so I can’t actually comment on that. The Iron Snail That being said, in order to get that price, modern Levis moved production to Mexico, Egypt, and other countries where the cost of labor was lower. They did the same with the production of the denim. I’m assuming they used a lower grade of cotton fiber in general – there are a lot of things that they had to change in order to keep Levis for $80, and with that being said, Levis, there’s usually some sale going on so I would say in the US at least it’s like $50 or $60. And I obviously think they could be priced a lot lower than what you were actually buying them for now because marketing and everything goes into that price. It goes up, and people want to make more money. Watch This Review The Final Verdict The difference in quality between modern and vintage and durability is not as much as you probably would think. All of the things that I really like – the charming things on Vintage Levis – don’t necessarily make them a better jean. They make them a cooler jean in my opinion, but modern technology has essentially got us to the level of perfected denim, and without all the faults that vintage denim has, modern denim can hold up to a similar strength even if it is of lesser quality on the inside. Do they make Levis like they used to? The answer has to be no. Thanks so much for reading! I’ll see you all soon! This article was adapted from Michael Kristy’s video on The Iron Snail, with edits from FashionBeans, and was reviewed by Michael to ensure the integrity of his original content. Watch the full video here. The Iron Snail is a men’s fashion vlog (and now article series!) starring a young man named Michael and featuring a snail no bigger than a quarter. The two are set on taking over the world of fashion by creating a clothing line to end all clothing lines. Until then, we’re here to tell you EVERYTHING you need to know about the best clothing out there, from the highest quality raw denim jeans to the warmest jackets to the sturdiest boots…the Iron Snail has got you covered. Source link
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We independently evaluate all recommended products and services. Any products or services put forward appear in no particular order. if you click on links we provide, we may receive compensation. The Iron Snail The Three Pairs: What We’re Looking At Today We have $1,300 Levis from the 1960s. The denim is fluffy, the hems look like rope, and this is also the year that Levis cheaped out. We also have supposed exact replicas of those jeans from Levi’s, and they now sell for $260. Lastly, we have just regular old boring Levi 501s that sell for $80. Everyone says, “Levi’s quality went downhill. They don’t make them like they used to”, and that’s true in some ways, but in other ways, the $80 jeans are built better. So today is a certified jeana-palooza. The Iron Snail Setting the Scene: Moon Landings to Brooklyn Hello everyone, it’s Michael. It’s a beautiful day. I’m feeling fantastic, and if these jeans could talk, the story that they would tell – from probably being worn on the day humanity watched the first man ever land on the moon to now being in my Brooklyn apartment where I was smelling them to see if I could detect signs of natural indigo versus synthetic indigo (I couldn’t, by the way). For my entire life, I have heard the phrase “they don’t make this like they used to” – Levis, Carhartt, Eddie Bauer, everything is not made like it used to be made. So I would like to put all of that to the test if you don’t mind. The Iron Snail Quick Comparison: The Three Pairs Head-to-Head Product Key Features Materials Strength/Durability Price 1960s Levi’s Jeans Higher stitch count, solid copper rivets,selvedge denim from Cone Mills, unsanforized. Long cotton fibers, steel buttons,Jacron patch. Durable but prone to leg twist;pocket bags made from heavy material;no bartacking on back pockets. $8 (equivalent to $80 today) LVC (Levi’s Vintage Clothing) Replicas Attempt to replicate vintage features,selvedge denim from Japan, unsanforized. Mimics vintage denim, modern Jacron patch,steel buttons. Comparable to vintage in stitch countand material weight; moderate leg twist. $260 Modern Levi’s 501 Bar tacking, zinc alloy buttons,uses projectile loom denim. Short cotton fibers, lower-cost materials,Jacron patch. Strong but lacks vintage charm;minimal leg twist; improved bartacking. $80 Quick Shoutout to the Vintage Jean Guy I made a new friend – I don’t know if he wants me to say his name online, but “[email protected]” – email him if you have old jeans or anything of the like. He’d love to buy them. He is a vintage Levis, Wrangler, Carhartt (whoever it may be) reseller, and he gets the craziest pieces that I have ever seen. The Evolution of the Patch: From Leather to Jacron The Iron Snail We will begin with the smallest detail first and then get to the big baddies like stitching, like denim quality, if one is actually stronger – all that we’ll get into in a second. But first, there are some small differences, which is nothing that you’d really notice, honestly. The Iron Snail The ’60s was a point where leather patches at Levis were already kind of out the door. They reintroduced them on their modern premium line, but I actually really like the patches that they use now. All of these patches are called paper patches, but they are not actually paper, and they are not cardboard – they are made out of Jacron. It was made in the ’60s, but now it is being looked into as an alternative for plastic materials in general because it does biodegrade over time. Jacron is an extremely strong mix of cellulose fibers like in plants and natural rubber. At least Levi says it’s natural rubber, not synthetic. Jacron patches hold ink better; they hold up for a pretty long time, but leather patches hold up for a much longer time. Handmade vs. Machine-Made: The Arcuate Detail The Iron Snail Next up is the arcuate. This does not affect the durability of the jeans at all, but if you pay attention here, there’ll be something you notice at the end when we’re talking about stitching. The 1960s one looks like it was done by hand – it’s not totally even, one side is lifted a little higher, and it looks like the LVC line (the Vintage Recreation) tried to do something similar but in a more machined way. I don’t think that’s done by hand, and then obviously, of course, the shape on the modern ones is perfectly symmetrical. Nothing is out of place, and it’s exactly even. I bet between a thousand pairs of jeans; there is so little variation between the designs that you can’t even notice. The Iron Snail Correction: After thinking about this for 3 more seconds, I realized they were all done by machine, but I think Levi’s changed the pattern over time. I’m sorry about that. Sizing Mysteries: The ’60s vs Today The Iron Snail There are two things about the fit of the 1960s jeans. The second one is a really weird fact I don’t understand, but the first one is vanity sizing in the ’60s – not a thing. So, the same size back then was smaller than it is today. The really weird thing, though, which, to be honest, I have no idea why Levis did this, and maybe other brands did it too at the time, is the jeans are 2 inches shorter than the length that is on the back tabs. The Small Details That Changed Everything The Iron Snail And finally, to wrap up the small section: number one, you’ve probably heard about this before – the red tab on the back of the ’60s jeans and the LVC jeans, that is in capital letters. Now it’s lowercase, just the L is big. Big whoop. The button material between modern Levis and vintage Levis changed – the old ones were steel, the new ones are, I think, a zinc alloy or something of the sort. But the ’60s were really the year that Levis changed a bunch of things anyway. Before the 1960s, the rivets on Levis were 100% solid copper. Now, the front is copper, and the back is aluminum. Cheaped out a little bit, Levis, didn’t you? The Iron Snail Okay, anyways, enough with the small crap. Let’s get serious. Let’s stop talking about cellulose and rubber, whatever that stuff is. Let’s talk about if these jeans are actually better and go over the big-boy details. The Stitch Count Showdown The Iron Snail Stitches per inch – usually higher is better. That’s not true in every single scenario; there are also different ways to have very strong garments, but when we are comparing the 1960 Levis to the modern ones, the 1960 ones, for the most part, have a higher stitch-per-inch count everywhere, and I believe on modern premium Levis, that is where you get an equivalent amount of stitches per inch as vintage. LVC Levis for almost $300 seems to come close or be exactly the same. So point #1 goes to 1960s Levi’s. Pocket Bags: The Hidden Quality Marker The Iron Snail Okay, so if Levi’s corporate is watching this, uh, I promise that modern-day Levis will have a comeback at the end, but right now, another point goes to 1960s and LVC jeans because the pocket bags – the bags that you put things in your pockets in – they’re made out of a much beefier, heavier material that they lasted from the ’60s to today. I don’t think modern Levis would, although these vintage jeans have not been worn a ton. It is, in general, just a better, beefier material than what we’re using today. The Selvedge Situation: Cone Mills to Japan The Iron Snail Obviously, the 1960s Levis used selvedge denim, the modern ones do not, and the LVCs use selvedge denim from Japan. The original Levis from the ’60s used denim from Cone Mills, which is the most famous US manufacturer of denim of all time, so it was a really big deal when they went out of business. Levis didn’t save them – I don’t know if they could have, but they didn’t either way. The Loom Revolution: How Denim Production Changed So, very quickly, let’s compare shuttle looms to projectile looms and modern looms that we use today. Shuttle looms are four times slower than projectile looms. They also produce half-width denim, so modern denim is 60 inches, and selvedge denim is 30 inches. Each yard of denim makes fewer jeans and is more expensive, so Levi switched to projectile looms, which can literally print denim out – it is incredibly fast. Pretty vs. Practical: The Truth About Old vs. New Denim The Iron Snail The real benefit of selvedge denim now in modern days is that it’s pretty – it looks like the actual denim is finished, and you didn’t do a messy stitch over it to make sure it doesn’t unravel or anything like that. What really matters is a lot of these old machines couldn’t make perfect denim like we can make today. The denim back then was a lot prettier, but that does not necessarily mean it was more durable – it could actually be less durable than the robotic denim made today. The Cotton Fiber Debate The Iron Snail Interestingly, vintage denim uses longer cotton fibers that take longer to grow and are also stronger because there’s more friction when they are all wound together tight, while modern fabric is meant to be grown really fast, so it uses shorter fibers that are not as strong. So there’s a push and pull either way. So, the durability of the denim without extensive testing, which I can’t do on the Vintage Levis, is TBD. The Shrinkage Factor and Leg Twist The Iron Snail All three of these jeans are unsanforized – that means they were not treated for shrinkage at all. They will shrink up to 10% when you wash them for the first time, and the leg twist on the Vintage Levis is insane. The leg has almost completely rolled over to the other end, which does not happen with LVCs – you can get some leg twist, but it’s moderate – and it barely happens at all with modern Levis. Modern Wins: The Bartacking Revolution The Iron Snail Is there any place in modern Levis that beats vintage Levis? Yes, it is called bartacking. Bartacking has been around for a while now. In the ’60s, it was not around for that long, and you’ll see there are rivets obviously on the front part of your pants. They used to also be on the back pockets because that is what set Levis apart. That is what made their jeans so strong. It wasn’t just stitching that could rip apart easily – it was riveted like a boat, it was super strong, you couldn’t pull them apart with two horses. The Evolution of Strength: From Rivets to Bar Tacks The Iron Snail Technology and stitching, in general, got better, and the bar tack was invented, which is equivalent essentially to the rivet. So, the rivets on the front of the pants that you are wearing right now are decorative. You could just bar-tack those. Uniqlo does a lot of bar tacking and not a lot of riveting, but with all that being said, these vintage ’60s Levis were some of the first Levis that had bar tacks on the back pockets instead of rivets, it was just not as robust as it was today. You’ll see that the bar tack on Modern Levis goes all the way through the top of the jeans to the bottom, and on Vintage, I think they skipped a layer of denim because they didn’t have a machine that could go through all of that denim. Correction and/or edit: The belt loops on the vintage jeans are all bar tacked all the way through, so I think it’s more possible that Levi’s hid the bar tack for style, although it is not as durable. The Price Factor: Then vs. Now The Iron Snail Levis, in the 1960s, went for $8. Adjusted for inflation today, that is just about $80, which I did not expect to be exactly the same price as they are today. It looks like they adjusted perfectly for inflation over time. Same thing with Wranglers – I think they went for $5. Today that gets to $50 or close to there, and it’s exactly the same. It’s not the same thing with Filson – Filson, technically, by inflation, should be $124, but it’s closer to $500. But I will say Filson did stay in the US, and I am making clothes in the US right now – it is very expensive, so I can’t actually comment on that. The Iron Snail That being said, in order to get that price, modern Levis moved production to Mexico, Egypt, and other countries where the cost of labor was lower. They did the same with the production of the denim. I’m assuming they used a lower grade of cotton fiber in general – there are a lot of things that they had to change in order to keep Levis for $80, and with that being said, Levis, there’s usually some sale going on so I would say in the US at least it’s like $50 or $60. And I obviously think they could be priced a lot lower than what you were actually buying them for now because marketing and everything goes into that price. It goes up, and people want to make more money. Watch This Review The Final Verdict The difference in quality between modern and vintage and durability is not as much as you probably would think. All of the things that I really like – the charming things on Vintage Levis – don’t necessarily make them a better jean. They make them a cooler jean in my opinion, but modern technology has essentially got us to the level of perfected denim, and without all the faults that vintage denim has, modern denim can hold up to a similar strength even if it is of lesser quality on the inside. Do they make Levis like they used to? The answer has to be no. Thanks so much for reading! I’ll see you all soon! This article was adapted from Michael Kristy’s video on The Iron Snail, with edits from FashionBeans, and was reviewed by Michael to ensure the integrity of his original content. Watch the full video here. The Iron Snail is a men’s fashion vlog (and now article series!) starring a young man named Michael and featuring a snail no bigger than a quarter. The two are set on taking over the world of fashion by creating a clothing line to end all clothing lines. Until then, we’re here to tell you EVERYTHING you need to know about the best clothing out there, from the highest quality raw denim jeans to the warmest jackets to the sturdiest boots…the Iron Snail has got you covered. Source link
0 notes
Photo
We independently evaluate all recommended products and services. Any products or services put forward appear in no particular order. if you click on links we provide, we may receive compensation. The Iron Snail The Three Pairs: What We’re Looking At Today We have $1,300 Levis from the 1960s. The denim is fluffy, the hems look like rope, and this is also the year that Levis cheaped out. We also have supposed exact replicas of those jeans from Levi’s, and they now sell for $260. Lastly, we have just regular old boring Levi 501s that sell for $80. Everyone says, “Levi’s quality went downhill. They don’t make them like they used to”, and that’s true in some ways, but in other ways, the $80 jeans are built better. So today is a certified jeana-palooza. The Iron Snail Setting the Scene: Moon Landings to Brooklyn Hello everyone, it’s Michael. It’s a beautiful day. I’m feeling fantastic, and if these jeans could talk, the story that they would tell – from probably being worn on the day humanity watched the first man ever land on the moon to now being in my Brooklyn apartment where I was smelling them to see if I could detect signs of natural indigo versus synthetic indigo (I couldn’t, by the way). For my entire life, I have heard the phrase “they don’t make this like they used to” – Levis, Carhartt, Eddie Bauer, everything is not made like it used to be made. So I would like to put all of that to the test if you don’t mind. The Iron Snail Quick Comparison: The Three Pairs Head-to-Head Product Key Features Materials Strength/Durability Price 1960s Levi’s Jeans Higher stitch count, solid copper rivets,selvedge denim from Cone Mills, unsanforized. Long cotton fibers, steel buttons,Jacron patch. Durable but prone to leg twist;pocket bags made from heavy material;no bartacking on back pockets. $8 (equivalent to $80 today) LVC (Levi’s Vintage Clothing) Replicas Attempt to replicate vintage features,selvedge denim from Japan, unsanforized. Mimics vintage denim, modern Jacron patch,steel buttons. Comparable to vintage in stitch countand material weight; moderate leg twist. $260 Modern Levi’s 501 Bar tacking, zinc alloy buttons,uses projectile loom denim. Short cotton fibers, lower-cost materials,Jacron patch. Strong but lacks vintage charm;minimal leg twist; improved bartacking. $80 Quick Shoutout to the Vintage Jean Guy I made a new friend – I don’t know if he wants me to say his name online, but “[email protected]” – email him if you have old jeans or anything of the like. He’d love to buy them. He is a vintage Levis, Wrangler, Carhartt (whoever it may be) reseller, and he gets the craziest pieces that I have ever seen. The Evolution of the Patch: From Leather to Jacron The Iron Snail We will begin with the smallest detail first and then get to the big baddies like stitching, like denim quality, if one is actually stronger – all that we’ll get into in a second. But first, there are some small differences, which is nothing that you’d really notice, honestly. The Iron Snail The ’60s was a point where leather patches at Levis were already kind of out the door. They reintroduced them on their modern premium line, but I actually really like the patches that they use now. All of these patches are called paper patches, but they are not actually paper, and they are not cardboard – they are made out of Jacron. It was made in the ’60s, but now it is being looked into as an alternative for plastic materials in general because it does biodegrade over time. Jacron is an extremely strong mix of cellulose fibers like in plants and natural rubber. At least Levi says it’s natural rubber, not synthetic. Jacron patches hold ink better; they hold up for a pretty long time, but leather patches hold up for a much longer time. Handmade vs. Machine-Made: The Arcuate Detail The Iron Snail Next up is the arcuate. This does not affect the durability of the jeans at all, but if you pay attention here, there’ll be something you notice at the end when we’re talking about stitching. The 1960s one looks like it was done by hand – it’s not totally even, one side is lifted a little higher, and it looks like the LVC line (the Vintage Recreation) tried to do something similar but in a more machined way. I don’t think that’s done by hand, and then obviously, of course, the shape on the modern ones is perfectly symmetrical. Nothing is out of place, and it’s exactly even. I bet between a thousand pairs of jeans; there is so little variation between the designs that you can’t even notice. The Iron Snail Correction: After thinking about this for 3 more seconds, I realized they were all done by machine, but I think Levi’s changed the pattern over time. I’m sorry about that. Sizing Mysteries: The ’60s vs Today The Iron Snail There are two things about the fit of the 1960s jeans. The second one is a really weird fact I don’t understand, but the first one is vanity sizing in the ’60s – not a thing. So, the same size back then was smaller than it is today. The really weird thing, though, which, to be honest, I have no idea why Levis did this, and maybe other brands did it too at the time, is the jeans are 2 inches shorter than the length that is on the back tabs. The Small Details That Changed Everything The Iron Snail And finally, to wrap up the small section: number one, you’ve probably heard about this before – the red tab on the back of the ’60s jeans and the LVC jeans, that is in capital letters. Now it’s lowercase, just the L is big. Big whoop. The button material between modern Levis and vintage Levis changed – the old ones were steel, the new ones are, I think, a zinc alloy or something of the sort. But the ’60s were really the year that Levis changed a bunch of things anyway. Before the 1960s, the rivets on Levis were 100% solid copper. Now, the front is copper, and the back is aluminum. Cheaped out a little bit, Levis, didn’t you? The Iron Snail Okay, anyways, enough with the small crap. Let’s get serious. Let’s stop talking about cellulose and rubber, whatever that stuff is. Let’s talk about if these jeans are actually better and go over the big-boy details. The Stitch Count Showdown The Iron Snail Stitches per inch – usually higher is better. That’s not true in every single scenario; there are also different ways to have very strong garments, but when we are comparing the 1960 Levis to the modern ones, the 1960 ones, for the most part, have a higher stitch-per-inch count everywhere, and I believe on modern premium Levis, that is where you get an equivalent amount of stitches per inch as vintage. LVC Levis for almost $300 seems to come close or be exactly the same. So point #1 goes to 1960s Levi’s. Pocket Bags: The Hidden Quality Marker The Iron Snail Okay, so if Levi’s corporate is watching this, uh, I promise that modern-day Levis will have a comeback at the end, but right now, another point goes to 1960s and LVC jeans because the pocket bags – the bags that you put things in your pockets in – they’re made out of a much beefier, heavier material that they lasted from the ’60s to today. I don’t think modern Levis would, although these vintage jeans have not been worn a ton. It is, in general, just a better, beefier material than what we’re using today. The Selvedge Situation: Cone Mills to Japan The Iron Snail Obviously, the 1960s Levis used selvedge denim, the modern ones do not, and the LVCs use selvedge denim from Japan. The original Levis from the ’60s used denim from Cone Mills, which is the most famous US manufacturer of denim of all time, so it was a really big deal when they went out of business. Levis didn’t save them – I don’t know if they could have, but they didn’t either way. The Loom Revolution: How Denim Production Changed So, very quickly, let’s compare shuttle looms to projectile looms and modern looms that we use today. Shuttle looms are four times slower than projectile looms. They also produce half-width denim, so modern denim is 60 inches, and selvedge denim is 30 inches. Each yard of denim makes fewer jeans and is more expensive, so Levi switched to projectile looms, which can literally print denim out – it is incredibly fast. Pretty vs. Practical: The Truth About Old vs. New Denim The Iron Snail The real benefit of selvedge denim now in modern days is that it’s pretty – it looks like the actual denim is finished, and you didn’t do a messy stitch over it to make sure it doesn’t unravel or anything like that. What really matters is a lot of these old machines couldn’t make perfect denim like we can make today. The denim back then was a lot prettier, but that does not necessarily mean it was more durable – it could actually be less durable than the robotic denim made today. The Cotton Fiber Debate The Iron Snail Interestingly, vintage denim uses longer cotton fibers that take longer to grow and are also stronger because there’s more friction when they are all wound together tight, while modern fabric is meant to be grown really fast, so it uses shorter fibers that are not as strong. So there’s a push and pull either way. So, the durability of the denim without extensive testing, which I can’t do on the Vintage Levis, is TBD. The Shrinkage Factor and Leg Twist The Iron Snail All three of these jeans are unsanforized – that means they were not treated for shrinkage at all. They will shrink up to 10% when you wash them for the first time, and the leg twist on the Vintage Levis is insane. The leg has almost completely rolled over to the other end, which does not happen with LVCs – you can get some leg twist, but it’s moderate – and it barely happens at all with modern Levis. Modern Wins: The Bartacking Revolution The Iron Snail Is there any place in modern Levis that beats vintage Levis? Yes, it is called bartacking. Bartacking has been around for a while now. In the ’60s, it was not around for that long, and you’ll see there are rivets obviously on the front part of your pants. They used to also be on the back pockets because that is what set Levis apart. That is what made their jeans so strong. It wasn’t just stitching that could rip apart easily – it was riveted like a boat, it was super strong, you couldn’t pull them apart with two horses. The Evolution of Strength: From Rivets to Bar Tacks The Iron Snail Technology and stitching, in general, got better, and the bar tack was invented, which is equivalent essentially to the rivet. So, the rivets on the front of the pants that you are wearing right now are decorative. You could just bar-tack those. Uniqlo does a lot of bar tacking and not a lot of riveting, but with all that being said, these vintage ’60s Levis were some of the first Levis that had bar tacks on the back pockets instead of rivets, it was just not as robust as it was today. You’ll see that the bar tack on Modern Levis goes all the way through the top of the jeans to the bottom, and on Vintage, I think they skipped a layer of denim because they didn’t have a machine that could go through all of that denim. Correction and/or edit: The belt loops on the vintage jeans are all bar tacked all the way through, so I think it’s more possible that Levi’s hid the bar tack for style, although it is not as durable. The Price Factor: Then vs. Now The Iron Snail Levis, in the 1960s, went for $8. Adjusted for inflation today, that is just about $80, which I did not expect to be exactly the same price as they are today. It looks like they adjusted perfectly for inflation over time. Same thing with Wranglers – I think they went for $5. Today that gets to $50 or close to there, and it’s exactly the same. It’s not the same thing with Filson – Filson, technically, by inflation, should be $124, but it’s closer to $500. But I will say Filson did stay in the US, and I am making clothes in the US right now – it is very expensive, so I can’t actually comment on that. The Iron Snail That being said, in order to get that price, modern Levis moved production to Mexico, Egypt, and other countries where the cost of labor was lower. They did the same with the production of the denim. I’m assuming they used a lower grade of cotton fiber in general – there are a lot of things that they had to change in order to keep Levis for $80, and with that being said, Levis, there’s usually some sale going on so I would say in the US at least it’s like $50 or $60. And I obviously think they could be priced a lot lower than what you were actually buying them for now because marketing and everything goes into that price. It goes up, and people want to make more money. Watch This Review The Final Verdict The difference in quality between modern and vintage and durability is not as much as you probably would think. All of the things that I really like – the charming things on Vintage Levis – don’t necessarily make them a better jean. They make them a cooler jean in my opinion, but modern technology has essentially got us to the level of perfected denim, and without all the faults that vintage denim has, modern denim can hold up to a similar strength even if it is of lesser quality on the inside. Do they make Levis like they used to? The answer has to be no. Thanks so much for reading! I’ll see you all soon! This article was adapted from Michael Kristy’s video on The Iron Snail, with edits from FashionBeans, and was reviewed by Michael to ensure the integrity of his original content. Watch the full video here. The Iron Snail is a men’s fashion vlog (and now article series!) starring a young man named Michael and featuring a snail no bigger than a quarter. The two are set on taking over the world of fashion by creating a clothing line to end all clothing lines. Until then, we’re here to tell you EVERYTHING you need to know about the best clothing out there, from the highest quality raw denim jeans to the warmest jackets to the sturdiest boots…the Iron Snail has got you covered. Source link
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We independently evaluate all recommended products and services. Any products or services put forward appear in no particular order. if you click on links we provide, we may receive compensation. The Iron Snail The Three Pairs: What We’re Looking At Today We have $1,300 Levis from the 1960s. The denim is fluffy, the hems look like rope, and this is also the year that Levis cheaped out. We also have supposed exact replicas of those jeans from Levi’s, and they now sell for $260. Lastly, we have just regular old boring Levi 501s that sell for $80. Everyone says, “Levi’s quality went downhill. They don’t make them like they used to”, and that’s true in some ways, but in other ways, the $80 jeans are built better. So today is a certified jeana-palooza. The Iron Snail Setting the Scene: Moon Landings to Brooklyn Hello everyone, it’s Michael. It’s a beautiful day. I’m feeling fantastic, and if these jeans could talk, the story that they would tell – from probably being worn on the day humanity watched the first man ever land on the moon to now being in my Brooklyn apartment where I was smelling them to see if I could detect signs of natural indigo versus synthetic indigo (I couldn’t, by the way). For my entire life, I have heard the phrase “they don’t make this like they used to” – Levis, Carhartt, Eddie Bauer, everything is not made like it used to be made. So I would like to put all of that to the test if you don’t mind. The Iron Snail Quick Comparison: The Three Pairs Head-to-Head Product Key Features Materials Strength/Durability Price 1960s Levi’s Jeans Higher stitch count, solid copper rivets,selvedge denim from Cone Mills, unsanforized. Long cotton fibers, steel buttons,Jacron patch. Durable but prone to leg twist;pocket bags made from heavy material;no bartacking on back pockets. $8 (equivalent to $80 today) LVC (Levi’s Vintage Clothing) Replicas Attempt to replicate vintage features,selvedge denim from Japan, unsanforized. Mimics vintage denim, modern Jacron patch,steel buttons. Comparable to vintage in stitch countand material weight; moderate leg twist. $260 Modern Levi’s 501 Bar tacking, zinc alloy buttons,uses projectile loom denim. Short cotton fibers, lower-cost materials,Jacron patch. Strong but lacks vintage charm;minimal leg twist; improved bartacking. $80 Quick Shoutout to the Vintage Jean Guy I made a new friend – I don’t know if he wants me to say his name online, but “[email protected]” – email him if you have old jeans or anything of the like. He’d love to buy them. He is a vintage Levis, Wrangler, Carhartt (whoever it may be) reseller, and he gets the craziest pieces that I have ever seen. The Evolution of the Patch: From Leather to Jacron The Iron Snail We will begin with the smallest detail first and then get to the big baddies like stitching, like denim quality, if one is actually stronger – all that we’ll get into in a second. But first, there are some small differences, which is nothing that you’d really notice, honestly. The Iron Snail The ’60s was a point where leather patches at Levis were already kind of out the door. They reintroduced them on their modern premium line, but I actually really like the patches that they use now. All of these patches are called paper patches, but they are not actually paper, and they are not cardboard – they are made out of Jacron. It was made in the ’60s, but now it is being looked into as an alternative for plastic materials in general because it does biodegrade over time. Jacron is an extremely strong mix of cellulose fibers like in plants and natural rubber. At least Levi says it’s natural rubber, not synthetic. Jacron patches hold ink better; they hold up for a pretty long time, but leather patches hold up for a much longer time. Handmade vs. Machine-Made: The Arcuate Detail The Iron Snail Next up is the arcuate. This does not affect the durability of the jeans at all, but if you pay attention here, there’ll be something you notice at the end when we’re talking about stitching. The 1960s one looks like it was done by hand – it’s not totally even, one side is lifted a little higher, and it looks like the LVC line (the Vintage Recreation) tried to do something similar but in a more machined way. I don’t think that’s done by hand, and then obviously, of course, the shape on the modern ones is perfectly symmetrical. Nothing is out of place, and it’s exactly even. I bet between a thousand pairs of jeans; there is so little variation between the designs that you can’t even notice. The Iron Snail Correction: After thinking about this for 3 more seconds, I realized they were all done by machine, but I think Levi’s changed the pattern over time. I’m sorry about that. Sizing Mysteries: The ’60s vs Today The Iron Snail There are two things about the fit of the 1960s jeans. The second one is a really weird fact I don’t understand, but the first one is vanity sizing in the ’60s – not a thing. So, the same size back then was smaller than it is today. The really weird thing, though, which, to be honest, I have no idea why Levis did this, and maybe other brands did it too at the time, is the jeans are 2 inches shorter than the length that is on the back tabs. The Small Details That Changed Everything The Iron Snail And finally, to wrap up the small section: number one, you’ve probably heard about this before – the red tab on the back of the ’60s jeans and the LVC jeans, that is in capital letters. Now it’s lowercase, just the L is big. Big whoop. The button material between modern Levis and vintage Levis changed – the old ones were steel, the new ones are, I think, a zinc alloy or something of the sort. But the ’60s were really the year that Levis changed a bunch of things anyway. Before the 1960s, the rivets on Levis were 100% solid copper. Now, the front is copper, and the back is aluminum. Cheaped out a little bit, Levis, didn’t you? The Iron Snail Okay, anyways, enough with the small crap. Let’s get serious. Let’s stop talking about cellulose and rubber, whatever that stuff is. Let’s talk about if these jeans are actually better and go over the big-boy details. The Stitch Count Showdown The Iron Snail Stitches per inch – usually higher is better. That’s not true in every single scenario; there are also different ways to have very strong garments, but when we are comparing the 1960 Levis to the modern ones, the 1960 ones, for the most part, have a higher stitch-per-inch count everywhere, and I believe on modern premium Levis, that is where you get an equivalent amount of stitches per inch as vintage. LVC Levis for almost $300 seems to come close or be exactly the same. So point #1 goes to 1960s Levi’s. Pocket Bags: The Hidden Quality Marker The Iron Snail Okay, so if Levi’s corporate is watching this, uh, I promise that modern-day Levis will have a comeback at the end, but right now, another point goes to 1960s and LVC jeans because the pocket bags – the bags that you put things in your pockets in – they’re made out of a much beefier, heavier material that they lasted from the ’60s to today. I don’t think modern Levis would, although these vintage jeans have not been worn a ton. It is, in general, just a better, beefier material than what we’re using today. The Selvedge Situation: Cone Mills to Japan The Iron Snail Obviously, the 1960s Levis used selvedge denim, the modern ones do not, and the LVCs use selvedge denim from Japan. The original Levis from the ’60s used denim from Cone Mills, which is the most famous US manufacturer of denim of all time, so it was a really big deal when they went out of business. Levis didn’t save them – I don’t know if they could have, but they didn’t either way. The Loom Revolution: How Denim Production Changed So, very quickly, let’s compare shuttle looms to projectile looms and modern looms that we use today. Shuttle looms are four times slower than projectile looms. They also produce half-width denim, so modern denim is 60 inches, and selvedge denim is 30 inches. Each yard of denim makes fewer jeans and is more expensive, so Levi switched to projectile looms, which can literally print denim out – it is incredibly fast. Pretty vs. Practical: The Truth About Old vs. New Denim The Iron Snail The real benefit of selvedge denim now in modern days is that it’s pretty – it looks like the actual denim is finished, and you didn’t do a messy stitch over it to make sure it doesn’t unravel or anything like that. What really matters is a lot of these old machines couldn’t make perfect denim like we can make today. The denim back then was a lot prettier, but that does not necessarily mean it was more durable – it could actually be less durable than the robotic denim made today. The Cotton Fiber Debate The Iron Snail Interestingly, vintage denim uses longer cotton fibers that take longer to grow and are also stronger because there’s more friction when they are all wound together tight, while modern fabric is meant to be grown really fast, so it uses shorter fibers that are not as strong. So there’s a push and pull either way. So, the durability of the denim without extensive testing, which I can’t do on the Vintage Levis, is TBD. The Shrinkage Factor and Leg Twist The Iron Snail All three of these jeans are unsanforized – that means they were not treated for shrinkage at all. They will shrink up to 10% when you wash them for the first time, and the leg twist on the Vintage Levis is insane. The leg has almost completely rolled over to the other end, which does not happen with LVCs – you can get some leg twist, but it’s moderate – and it barely happens at all with modern Levis. Modern Wins: The Bartacking Revolution The Iron Snail Is there any place in modern Levis that beats vintage Levis? Yes, it is called bartacking. Bartacking has been around for a while now. In the ’60s, it was not around for that long, and you’ll see there are rivets obviously on the front part of your pants. They used to also be on the back pockets because that is what set Levis apart. That is what made their jeans so strong. It wasn’t just stitching that could rip apart easily – it was riveted like a boat, it was super strong, you couldn’t pull them apart with two horses. The Evolution of Strength: From Rivets to Bar Tacks The Iron Snail Technology and stitching, in general, got better, and the bar tack was invented, which is equivalent essentially to the rivet. So, the rivets on the front of the pants that you are wearing right now are decorative. You could just bar-tack those. Uniqlo does a lot of bar tacking and not a lot of riveting, but with all that being said, these vintage ’60s Levis were some of the first Levis that had bar tacks on the back pockets instead of rivets, it was just not as robust as it was today. You’ll see that the bar tack on Modern Levis goes all the way through the top of the jeans to the bottom, and on Vintage, I think they skipped a layer of denim because they didn’t have a machine that could go through all of that denim. Correction and/or edit: The belt loops on the vintage jeans are all bar tacked all the way through, so I think it’s more possible that Levi’s hid the bar tack for style, although it is not as durable. The Price Factor: Then vs. Now The Iron Snail Levis, in the 1960s, went for $8. Adjusted for inflation today, that is just about $80, which I did not expect to be exactly the same price as they are today. It looks like they adjusted perfectly for inflation over time. Same thing with Wranglers – I think they went for $5. Today that gets to $50 or close to there, and it’s exactly the same. It’s not the same thing with Filson – Filson, technically, by inflation, should be $124, but it’s closer to $500. But I will say Filson did stay in the US, and I am making clothes in the US right now – it is very expensive, so I can’t actually comment on that. The Iron Snail That being said, in order to get that price, modern Levis moved production to Mexico, Egypt, and other countries where the cost of labor was lower. They did the same with the production of the denim. I’m assuming they used a lower grade of cotton fiber in general – there are a lot of things that they had to change in order to keep Levis for $80, and with that being said, Levis, there’s usually some sale going on so I would say in the US at least it’s like $50 or $60. And I obviously think they could be priced a lot lower than what you were actually buying them for now because marketing and everything goes into that price. It goes up, and people want to make more money. Watch This Review The Final Verdict The difference in quality between modern and vintage and durability is not as much as you probably would think. All of the things that I really like – the charming things on Vintage Levis – don’t necessarily make them a better jean. They make them a cooler jean in my opinion, but modern technology has essentially got us to the level of perfected denim, and without all the faults that vintage denim has, modern denim can hold up to a similar strength even if it is of lesser quality on the inside. Do they make Levis like they used to? The answer has to be no. Thanks so much for reading! I’ll see you all soon! This article was adapted from Michael Kristy’s video on The Iron Snail, with edits from FashionBeans, and was reviewed by Michael to ensure the integrity of his original content. Watch the full video here. The Iron Snail is a men’s fashion vlog (and now article series!) starring a young man named Michael and featuring a snail no bigger than a quarter. The two are set on taking over the world of fashion by creating a clothing line to end all clothing lines. Until then, we’re here to tell you EVERYTHING you need to know about the best clothing out there, from the highest quality raw denim jeans to the warmest jackets to the sturdiest boots…the Iron Snail has got you covered. Source link
0 notes
Photo
We independently evaluate all recommended products and services. Any products or services put forward appear in no particular order. if you click on links we provide, we may receive compensation. The Iron Snail The Three Pairs: What We’re Looking At Today We have $1,300 Levis from the 1960s. The denim is fluffy, the hems look like rope, and this is also the year that Levis cheaped out. We also have supposed exact replicas of those jeans from Levi’s, and they now sell for $260. Lastly, we have just regular old boring Levi 501s that sell for $80. Everyone says, “Levi’s quality went downhill. They don’t make them like they used to”, and that’s true in some ways, but in other ways, the $80 jeans are built better. So today is a certified jeana-palooza. The Iron Snail Setting the Scene: Moon Landings to Brooklyn Hello everyone, it’s Michael. It’s a beautiful day. I’m feeling fantastic, and if these jeans could talk, the story that they would tell – from probably being worn on the day humanity watched the first man ever land on the moon to now being in my Brooklyn apartment where I was smelling them to see if I could detect signs of natural indigo versus synthetic indigo (I couldn’t, by the way). For my entire life, I have heard the phrase “they don’t make this like they used to” – Levis, Carhartt, Eddie Bauer, everything is not made like it used to be made. So I would like to put all of that to the test if you don’t mind. The Iron Snail Quick Comparison: The Three Pairs Head-to-Head Product Key Features Materials Strength/Durability Price 1960s Levi’s Jeans Higher stitch count, solid copper rivets,selvedge denim from Cone Mills, unsanforized. Long cotton fibers, steel buttons,Jacron patch. Durable but prone to leg twist;pocket bags made from heavy material;no bartacking on back pockets. $8 (equivalent to $80 today) LVC (Levi’s Vintage Clothing) Replicas Attempt to replicate vintage features,selvedge denim from Japan, unsanforized. Mimics vintage denim, modern Jacron patch,steel buttons. Comparable to vintage in stitch countand material weight; moderate leg twist. $260 Modern Levi’s 501 Bar tacking, zinc alloy buttons,uses projectile loom denim. Short cotton fibers, lower-cost materials,Jacron patch. Strong but lacks vintage charm;minimal leg twist; improved bartacking. $80 Quick Shoutout to the Vintage Jean Guy I made a new friend – I don’t know if he wants me to say his name online, but “[email protected]” – email him if you have old jeans or anything of the like. He’d love to buy them. He is a vintage Levis, Wrangler, Carhartt (whoever it may be) reseller, and he gets the craziest pieces that I have ever seen. The Evolution of the Patch: From Leather to Jacron The Iron Snail We will begin with the smallest detail first and then get to the big baddies like stitching, like denim quality, if one is actually stronger – all that we’ll get into in a second. But first, there are some small differences, which is nothing that you’d really notice, honestly. The Iron Snail The ’60s was a point where leather patches at Levis were already kind of out the door. They reintroduced them on their modern premium line, but I actually really like the patches that they use now. All of these patches are called paper patches, but they are not actually paper, and they are not cardboard – they are made out of Jacron. It was made in the ’60s, but now it is being looked into as an alternative for plastic materials in general because it does biodegrade over time. Jacron is an extremely strong mix of cellulose fibers like in plants and natural rubber. At least Levi says it’s natural rubber, not synthetic. Jacron patches hold ink better; they hold up for a pretty long time, but leather patches hold up for a much longer time. Handmade vs. Machine-Made: The Arcuate Detail The Iron Snail Next up is the arcuate. This does not affect the durability of the jeans at all, but if you pay attention here, there’ll be something you notice at the end when we’re talking about stitching. The 1960s one looks like it was done by hand – it’s not totally even, one side is lifted a little higher, and it looks like the LVC line (the Vintage Recreation) tried to do something similar but in a more machined way. I don’t think that’s done by hand, and then obviously, of course, the shape on the modern ones is perfectly symmetrical. Nothing is out of place, and it’s exactly even. I bet between a thousand pairs of jeans; there is so little variation between the designs that you can’t even notice. The Iron Snail Correction: After thinking about this for 3 more seconds, I realized they were all done by machine, but I think Levi’s changed the pattern over time. I’m sorry about that. Sizing Mysteries: The ’60s vs Today The Iron Snail There are two things about the fit of the 1960s jeans. The second one is a really weird fact I don’t understand, but the first one is vanity sizing in the ’60s – not a thing. So, the same size back then was smaller than it is today. The really weird thing, though, which, to be honest, I have no idea why Levis did this, and maybe other brands did it too at the time, is the jeans are 2 inches shorter than the length that is on the back tabs. The Small Details That Changed Everything The Iron Snail And finally, to wrap up the small section: number one, you’ve probably heard about this before – the red tab on the back of the ’60s jeans and the LVC jeans, that is in capital letters. Now it’s lowercase, just the L is big. Big whoop. The button material between modern Levis and vintage Levis changed – the old ones were steel, the new ones are, I think, a zinc alloy or something of the sort. But the ’60s were really the year that Levis changed a bunch of things anyway. Before the 1960s, the rivets on Levis were 100% solid copper. Now, the front is copper, and the back is aluminum. Cheaped out a little bit, Levis, didn’t you? The Iron Snail Okay, anyways, enough with the small crap. Let’s get serious. Let’s stop talking about cellulose and rubber, whatever that stuff is. Let’s talk about if these jeans are actually better and go over the big-boy details. The Stitch Count Showdown The Iron Snail Stitches per inch – usually higher is better. That’s not true in every single scenario; there are also different ways to have very strong garments, but when we are comparing the 1960 Levis to the modern ones, the 1960 ones, for the most part, have a higher stitch-per-inch count everywhere, and I believe on modern premium Levis, that is where you get an equivalent amount of stitches per inch as vintage. LVC Levis for almost $300 seems to come close or be exactly the same. So point #1 goes to 1960s Levi’s. Pocket Bags: The Hidden Quality Marker The Iron Snail Okay, so if Levi’s corporate is watching this, uh, I promise that modern-day Levis will have a comeback at the end, but right now, another point goes to 1960s and LVC jeans because the pocket bags – the bags that you put things in your pockets in – they’re made out of a much beefier, heavier material that they lasted from the ’60s to today. I don’t think modern Levis would, although these vintage jeans have not been worn a ton. It is, in general, just a better, beefier material than what we’re using today. The Selvedge Situation: Cone Mills to Japan The Iron Snail Obviously, the 1960s Levis used selvedge denim, the modern ones do not, and the LVCs use selvedge denim from Japan. The original Levis from the ’60s used denim from Cone Mills, which is the most famous US manufacturer of denim of all time, so it was a really big deal when they went out of business. Levis didn’t save them – I don’t know if they could have, but they didn’t either way. The Loom Revolution: How Denim Production Changed So, very quickly, let’s compare shuttle looms to projectile looms and modern looms that we use today. Shuttle looms are four times slower than projectile looms. They also produce half-width denim, so modern denim is 60 inches, and selvedge denim is 30 inches. Each yard of denim makes fewer jeans and is more expensive, so Levi switched to projectile looms, which can literally print denim out – it is incredibly fast. Pretty vs. Practical: The Truth About Old vs. New Denim The Iron Snail The real benefit of selvedge denim now in modern days is that it’s pretty – it looks like the actual denim is finished, and you didn’t do a messy stitch over it to make sure it doesn’t unravel or anything like that. What really matters is a lot of these old machines couldn’t make perfect denim like we can make today. The denim back then was a lot prettier, but that does not necessarily mean it was more durable – it could actually be less durable than the robotic denim made today. The Cotton Fiber Debate The Iron Snail Interestingly, vintage denim uses longer cotton fibers that take longer to grow and are also stronger because there’s more friction when they are all wound together tight, while modern fabric is meant to be grown really fast, so it uses shorter fibers that are not as strong. So there’s a push and pull either way. So, the durability of the denim without extensive testing, which I can’t do on the Vintage Levis, is TBD. The Shrinkage Factor and Leg Twist The Iron Snail All three of these jeans are unsanforized – that means they were not treated for shrinkage at all. They will shrink up to 10% when you wash them for the first time, and the leg twist on the Vintage Levis is insane. The leg has almost completely rolled over to the other end, which does not happen with LVCs – you can get some leg twist, but it’s moderate – and it barely happens at all with modern Levis. Modern Wins: The Bartacking Revolution The Iron Snail Is there any place in modern Levis that beats vintage Levis? Yes, it is called bartacking. Bartacking has been around for a while now. In the ’60s, it was not around for that long, and you’ll see there are rivets obviously on the front part of your pants. They used to also be on the back pockets because that is what set Levis apart. That is what made their jeans so strong. It wasn’t just stitching that could rip apart easily – it was riveted like a boat, it was super strong, you couldn’t pull them apart with two horses. The Evolution of Strength: From Rivets to Bar Tacks The Iron Snail Technology and stitching, in general, got better, and the bar tack was invented, which is equivalent essentially to the rivet. So, the rivets on the front of the pants that you are wearing right now are decorative. You could just bar-tack those. Uniqlo does a lot of bar tacking and not a lot of riveting, but with all that being said, these vintage ’60s Levis were some of the first Levis that had bar tacks on the back pockets instead of rivets, it was just not as robust as it was today. You’ll see that the bar tack on Modern Levis goes all the way through the top of the jeans to the bottom, and on Vintage, I think they skipped a layer of denim because they didn’t have a machine that could go through all of that denim. Correction and/or edit: The belt loops on the vintage jeans are all bar tacked all the way through, so I think it’s more possible that Levi’s hid the bar tack for style, although it is not as durable. The Price Factor: Then vs. Now The Iron Snail Levis, in the 1960s, went for $8. Adjusted for inflation today, that is just about $80, which I did not expect to be exactly the same price as they are today. It looks like they adjusted perfectly for inflation over time. Same thing with Wranglers – I think they went for $5. Today that gets to $50 or close to there, and it’s exactly the same. It’s not the same thing with Filson – Filson, technically, by inflation, should be $124, but it’s closer to $500. But I will say Filson did stay in the US, and I am making clothes in the US right now – it is very expensive, so I can’t actually comment on that. The Iron Snail That being said, in order to get that price, modern Levis moved production to Mexico, Egypt, and other countries where the cost of labor was lower. They did the same with the production of the denim. I’m assuming they used a lower grade of cotton fiber in general – there are a lot of things that they had to change in order to keep Levis for $80, and with that being said, Levis, there’s usually some sale going on so I would say in the US at least it’s like $50 or $60. And I obviously think they could be priced a lot lower than what you were actually buying them for now because marketing and everything goes into that price. It goes up, and people want to make more money. Watch This Review The Final Verdict The difference in quality between modern and vintage and durability is not as much as you probably would think. All of the things that I really like – the charming things on Vintage Levis – don’t necessarily make them a better jean. They make them a cooler jean in my opinion, but modern technology has essentially got us to the level of perfected denim, and without all the faults that vintage denim has, modern denim can hold up to a similar strength even if it is of lesser quality on the inside. Do they make Levis like they used to? The answer has to be no. Thanks so much for reading! I’ll see you all soon! This article was adapted from Michael Kristy’s video on The Iron Snail, with edits from FashionBeans, and was reviewed by Michael to ensure the integrity of his original content. Watch the full video here. The Iron Snail is a men’s fashion vlog (and now article series!) starring a young man named Michael and featuring a snail no bigger than a quarter. The two are set on taking over the world of fashion by creating a clothing line to end all clothing lines. Until then, we’re here to tell you EVERYTHING you need to know about the best clothing out there, from the highest quality raw denim jeans to the warmest jackets to the sturdiest boots…the Iron Snail has got you covered. Source link
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Sunkaier Rubber Cutter and Dispersion System
Description:
A rubber cutter and dispersion system are the essential part of the manufacturing process for materials such as Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS), High Impact Polystyrene (HIPS), and Hydrogenated Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (HNBR). These systems are designed to cut rubber into small pieces or chips and ensure that these pieces are evenly dispersed in the compound during the mixing process.
COMPLETE SYSTEM OF RUBBER DISOLVING:
SUNKAIER Rubber Solution Complete System is an integrated system designed for the processing of rubber materials.
Rubber Feed System: handling and feeding of raw rubber bale into the processing line. It may include mechanisms for weighing, metal detecting.
Rubber Extruding Chopper Machine: This screw extruding rubber bales to die and cut by rotary knives and the rubber is converted to crumbs or 1.5 ~ 2.5 cm particles for further processing.
Rubber Disperser Machine: This machine is used to disperse the rubber in the solvent.
Conveying: The conveying system transports these compounds between different machines.
Solvent Feed and Control: This part of the system handles the addition and control of solvents during the rubber processing. Solvents can be used to dissolve rubber or other ingredients, making them easier to mix and process.
A complete system like this would typically also include control systems that manage the operation of each component, ensuring consistent quality and efficiency throughout the production process. These control systems might include sensors, actuators, and programmable logic controllers (PLCs).
RUBBER EXTRUDING CHOPPER:
SUNKAIER Rubber Chopper converts bales of synthetic and natural rubber to small particles through a combination of low speed and high torque pelletizer. The low-speed, high-torque design minimizes heat input while providing the power needed to grind rubber bales to crumbs. The resulting particle size ranges between 0.5-1 inch (1.2-2.5 cm), which increase the solvent dissolution prior to blending and compounding.
RUBBER GRINDING MACHINE:
Rubber Wet Grinder (Inline Mixer/Disintergrator/Rubber Dissolving/Colloid Mill/Grinding Pump/Homogenizer/Mill Pump) consists of rotor and stator. shear force and micro-cavitation that generated between rotor and stator are used in manufacturing to function as follows:
PFD OF RUBBER SOLUTION:
Process Flow Diagram (PFD) to prepare a Rubber Solution, particularly in steps involved in transforming raw rubber into a usable solution for various applications such as coatings, adhesives, or other rubber-based products.
1. Rubber Feeding:
- Raw materials (natural or synthetic rubber) are introduced into the system.
2. Chopping:
- Large pieces of rubber are chopped into smaller, more manageable chunks.
3. Dispersion:
- The chopped rubber is then dispersed into a solvent to create a solution.
4. Buffering:
- After dispersion, the rubber solution is stored temporarily in a buffer tank or reservoir.
- Buffering also provides a steady supply of the rubber solution to downstream processes.
ROTOR AND STATOR - RS100:
ROTOR STATOR- RS200:
If you have any need of Rubber Cutter and Dispersion System please contact me without any hesitation, thanks.
Helena Xiao / Sales Manager
Email: [email protected]
Phone: +86 510 8758 8707
Mobile: +8618261586225
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Image from page 115 of "Illustrated catalogue and price list of colors and materials for decorating china, earthenware, glass, enamelled iron, etc. : oxides and chemicals / imported and manufactured by B. F. Drakenfeld & Co." (1914) by Internet Archive Book Images Via Flickr: Identifier: illustratedcatal00bfdr Title: Illustrated catalogue and price list of colors and materials for decorating china, earthenware, glass, enamelled iron, etc. : oxides and chemicals / imported and manufactured by B. F. Drakenfeld & Co. Year: 1914 (1910s) Authors: B.F. Drakenfeld & Co. (New York, N.Y.) Subjects: Pottery craft--Equipment and supplies--Catalogs Artists' materials--Catalogs China painting--Catalogs Trade catalogs--Pottery craft--Equipment and supplies Trade catalogs--Artists' materials Trade catalogs--China painting Publisher: B.F. Drakenfeld & Co., New York Contributing Library: Winterthur Museum Library Digitizing Sponsor: LYRASIS Members and Sloan Foundation View Book Page: Book Viewer About This Book: Catalog Entry View All Images: All Images From Book Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book. Text Appearing Before Image: raying on the market. It is composedthroughout of the best bronze metal, with exception of the needle,which is of German Silver, and this metal composition insures entirefreedom from corroding. The machine will not clog or otherwise getout of order, and the entire construction is the most substantial anddurable possible. The needles are readily interchangeable. Excelsior Spraying Machine, complete each, $14 00 (Including twelve 4-ounce Screw Top Jars) Extra 4-ounce Screw Top Jars per dozen, 50 Extra 6-ounce Screw Top Jars per dozen, 60 Suction Tubes each, 25 Nozzles each, 1 00 Plungers each, 50 Needles each, 75 Valves each, 7S Prices will be quoted upon application onPower Air Compressors,Hand Air Pumps.Galvanized Iron Tanks,. - W-^^ Gauges and all other equi])nient ^ty—N**^ ^ required for comin-cssed air installation. -^V^)^ ^ AUTOMATIC RUBBER RESPIRATOR A Thorough Safeguard Against the Inhala-tion of Fumes, Vapors and AllKinds of Dust. • Vutomatic Rubber Respirator, .each, $1 50 Text Appearing After Image: B. F. DRAKENFELD & CO., INC., NEW YORK 113 Grinding & Mixing Mills PEBBLE MILLS WITH PORCELAIN JARS For Grinding and Mixing Colors, Chemicals, Etc. Note About Images Please note that these images are extracted from scanned page images that may have been digitally enhanced for readability - coloration and appearance of these illustrations may not perfectly resemble the original work.
#bookid:illustratedcatal00bfdr#bookyear:1914#bookdecade:1910#bookcentury:1900#bookauthor:B_F__Drakenfeld___Co___New_York__N_Y__#booksubject:Pottery_craft__Equipment_and_supplies__Catalogs#booksubject:Artists__materials__Catalogs#booksubject:China_painting__Catalogs#booksubject:Trade_catalogs__Pottery_craft__Equipment_and_supplies#booksubject:Trade_catalogs__Artists__materials#booksubject:Trade_catalogs__China_painting#bookpublisher:B_F__Drakenfeld___Co___New_York#bookcontributor:Winterthur_Museum_Library#booksponsor:LYRASIS_Members_and_Sloan_Foundation#bookleafnumber:115#bookcollection:winterthurlibrary#bookcollection:americana#flickr
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Three roll mill machine
The Three roll mill machine is used to mix chemical raw materials, rubber, and PVC master batches uniformly. To obtain the appropriate color and quality. The strong chromium plating rolls made of stainless steel can have their spacing manually changed. Mixed capacity-0.5to1 kg,2 to 3 kg,5 to 7 kg;Temperature range-RT to 300°C; Heater-Cylindrical mold; Drum revolutions ratio-1:1.25 for more visit labtron.us
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The Various Uses of a Ball Mill in the Pharmaceutical Industry
Ball Mill In Pharmaceutics -
The ball mill pharmaceutical reduces the particle size of active ingredients and excipients. This process can improve the bioavailability of the drug, making it more effective. Ball mills can also be used to homogenize and blend active ingredients and excipients. This process can improve the uniformity of the final product.
A ball mill is a type of grinder that is used to Grind, mix, and sometimes blend materials for use in the pharmaceutical industry. A ball mill consists of a ceramic or metal jar that is filled with grinding media (usually balls), which is then rotated to cause the balls to grind against each other. This action results in the grinding of the material into a powder.
There are several different types of ball mills, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. The most common type of ball mill is the porcelain ball mill. These mills are constructed from high-quality porcelain and are very durable. They are also very effective at grinding a variety of materials. Another type of ball mill is the alumina ball mill. These mills are made from strong alumina ceramic and are also very durable. However, they are not as effective
The ball mill is one of the most versatile pieces of equipment in the pharmaceutical industry. It can be used to pulverize, homogenize, and blend a wide variety of materials. The ball mill can be used to grind many different types of materials, such as bones, ceramics, coins, glass, chemically-cured rubbers, minerals, slags, and even certain types of metals.
Uses Of Ball Mill -
1. Ball mill is used for the milling of pigments and insecticides for industrial purposes.
2. Stainless steel balls are preferred for the production of ophthalmic and parental products.
Laboratory Ball Mill -
A laboratory ball mill is a ceramic grinding media that can be used to grind and reduce the size of a sample. The ball mill is able to do this by applying a high-energy impact to the sample as it rotates in a chamber. This energy transfers to the sample and reduces its size.
Laboratory ball mills are available in a range of sizes and materials. The most popular sizes are the 0.5, 1.0, and 2.0-liter mills. The material of the ball mill can be either alumina or stainless steel. The alumina ball mill is the most popular option because it is more resistant to corrosion.
When selecting a laboratory ball mill, it is important to consider the material of the ball mill, the size of the ball mill, and the desired results. The material of the ball mill will determine the speed at
Ball Mill Machine -
A ball mill machine is a type of grinder used to grind and blend materials for use in mineral dressing processes, paints, pyrotechnics, ceramics, and selective laser sintering. It works on the principle of impact and attrition: size reduction is done by impact as the balls drop from near the top of the shell. A ball mill consists of a hollow cylindrical shell rotating about its axis. The axis of the shell may be either horizontal or at a small angle to the horizontal. It is partially filled with balls. The grinding media are the balls, which may be made of steel (chrome steel), stainless steel, ceramic, or rubber.
The ball mill is a key piece of equipment for grinding crushed materials, and it is widely used in production lines for powders such as cement, silicates, refractory material, fertilizer, glass ceramics, etc. as well as for ore dressing of both ferrous and non-ferrous metals. The ball mill can grind various ores and other materials either wet or dry.
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What is Rubber Machinery?
Machinery used to manufacture various rubber products such as tires, including general rubber machinery, tire machinery and other rubber product machinery 3 categories.
Rubber machinery in general “Machinery for preparing rubber or semi-finished products, including raw material processing machinery, rubber mixing machines, extruders, calenders, curtain canvas pre-treatment devices and cutting machines.
Rubber mixing machines are divided into two types: open type and closed type.
Open rubber mixing machine: It is mainly used for hot mixing, tablet pressing, rubber breaking, plasticizing and rubber mixing. It consists of rollers, roller bearings, roller pitch adjustment device, emergency brake device, frame, machine base, transmission device, and heating and cooling system.
The working principle of the open rubber mixer is: raw rubber or rubber material is fed into the nip by friction between two rollers rotating at different speeds and subjected to strong shearing and compression to increase the degree of plasticity. This double roller open rubber mixing mill began to be used in production in 1826. Its structure is relatively simple and it is still commonly used in modern times.
Closed Rubber Mixing Machine: It is mainly used for plasticizing and mixing rubber. It has one more mixing chamber than the open mixer. After the raw rubber and compounding agent are loaded into the mixing chamber from the feed hopper, the material door is closed, the upper bolt of the pressing device is pressed down, and the two rotors of the mixing chamber mixture rotate in opposite directions at different or the same speed.
The charged rubber material is subjected to constant agitation, rolling and strong kneading between the rotors, between the rotors and the mixing chamber, which leads to oxidation and chain scission, which increases plasticity. At the same time, the rubber material is evenly dispersed and mixed due to shearing, so as to achieve the purpose of mixing the rubber.
Since the invention of the elliptical rotor enclosed rubber mixer in 1916, the enclosed rubber mixer has developed rapidly in the rubber industry. Subsequently closed rubber mixers with other types of rotors appeared. The mixing cycle of a modern closed rubber mixer is 2.5-3 minutes and the maximum capacity of the mixing chamber is 650 litres.
The extruder is used to extrude treads, inner tubes, hoses and various rubber strips, and is also used to coat cables and wire products. The most common is the screw extruder. Its working principle is: the rubber material is stirred, mixed, plasticized and compacted in the barrel by rotating the extrusion screw, and then it moves in the direction of the machine head and finally extrudes a product of a certain shape. From the mouth Depending on the needs of the product, various machines can be used for compound extrusion of a variety of rubber materials.
Screw extruders are divided into two types: hot feed and cold feed. Hot feed extruders generally feed strips that have been preheated by an open rubber mill. The rubber material fed by the cold feed extruder does not melt with heat, so the hot melt equipment can be omitted.
The calender is mainly used for pasting or rubbing curtain canvas, rubber material pressing, laminating, pressing and embossing. The main working part of the calender is the roller, and the number of rollers is usually 3 or more. When rubber material with a certain temperature and plasticity is fed into the gap of counter-rotating rollers, it is strongly squeezed and stretched under the action of friction to form the required product. The first calender was made and used in production in 1857, and it has been continually improved thereafter.
Especially since the 1950s, the development of the plastics industry has strongly promoted the improvement of high-precision and high-speed calenders. In order to obtain calendered products with a uniform thickness, new calenders are generally equipped with roll deflection compensation devices. The thickness of the calendered semi-finished product is measured with special equipment, and some calenders are also equipped with an automatic thickness adjustment system controlled by an electronic computer.
Tire Machinery
This type of machinery includes tire building machines, tire displacement machinery, tire molding vulcanizers, bladder vulcanizers, cushion belt vulcanizers, tube splicers and tube vulcanizers, as well as tire machinery, retreading machinery tires and recovered rubber production machinery. More than 60% of the world's rubber is used to make tires, so tire machinery occupies an important place in rubber machinery. Figure 2 is a flowchart of tire production.
The tire making machine is used to roll and process various components such as rubber cord, wire cord, and tread into a green tire. According to the purpose, it is divided into two categories: ordinary tire making machines and radial tire making machines.
The cords of the cords of the common tire carcass intersect at a certain angle. When forming, the cord tube is first placed in the building drum, and then wire loops are placed on both sides, and the cushioning layer and tread rubber are covered in the middle to form the shape. The green tire becomes cylindrical.
The main difference in the structure between radial tires and ordinary tires is that the cords of the cushion layer and the axis of the carcass are 90° 75° (almost orthogonal), so the diameter of the cushion layer does not it can be changed significantly after molding, so the carcass is made. After that you need to expand to the rough final shape and then attach the damping layer. Therefore, the structure of the radial tire making machine is also different from that of the ordinary tire making machine.
A molding machine completes the entire radial tire building process, which is called the one-time molding method. The carcass is made by a modified ordinary tire making machine, and then formed on the radial tire making machine, which is called the two-stage forming method.
Continuous Vulcanizing Ovens
Microwave Rubber Vulcanization
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Granulation Equipment and Their Types
Dry granulation equipment simply refers to the automatic fertilizer making equipments adopt dry granulation technique. They are extensively utilized in all sorts of dry fertilization plants, and hence the dry fertilizer pellets have good quality and increased nutrient for better growing plants. These make for the best materials for plants that require low in nutrients and a good amount of water. In this case, these also help reduce the load on trees do get adequate water.
One of the most popular types of powder coating granulation equipment includes the double roller granulating machine. They use two different sized nozzles that permit water to be absorbed by the powder. Rapid Mixer Granulator works by introducing the granulated materials in a hopper and letting it run. The feed process does the mixing of the ingredients, which can be done at anytime. The dual roller extrusion granulating machine is similar to the double roller but it works with two nozzles.
The next type of Double Cone Blender uses to delicately blend and mix dry powders. It all contact parts are made from stainless steel.
The next type of dry powder granulation equipment uses vibrating nozzles. These are much similar to the vibrating machine used in soap making. However, they are only suitable for wet granulation materials and not for the dry powder ones.
The next type is the flat die granulator. This machine is the most popular type and is extremely helpful in the production of fertilizers. They are utilized in the production of rubber and plastic emulsions, as well as other materials. They work by exposing the ingredients to an acidic solution which corrodes the material. The resulting product is an extremely fine coating that is applied on the surface of the raw material. The flat die granulation equipment is very useful for creating high quality fertilizers.
One of the latest developments in the field of fertilizers is the p 1 fluid bed processor. This one pot processors work by the introduction of media into a container. The heated media is warmed up and is allowed to enter the containers. The heated fluid goes through a homogenizer to produce high shear granules.
The inlet air compressor works by supplying air to a homogenizer. As the product gets heated, the homogenizer contracts and helps the product to stick together. The inlet air compressor is the newest innovation and makes use of the oil-water mixture to granulate bed granulation. The high pressure output allows the fluid to flow through the large nozzles and to the bed granulation area.
Other commonly used equipment in the manufacture of fertilizers is the tablet maker. A person who manufactures tablets is called a tablet manufacturer. A person who manufactures tablets and mixes them is called a wet granulation manufacturer. A person who manufactures dry granules is called a dry granulation manufacturer. Both these manufacturers manufacture tablets for the purpose of supplementing the human body's nutrition.
Granulation Equipment includes a wide range of products are Fluid Bed Dryer, Double Cone Blender, Multi Mill, Octagonal Blender, RMG Machine, and Vibro Separators. Most of the equipment manufacturers to design and manufacture complete sets of granulation tools and also offer complete formulations under the category of 'granulation products'. Some of the most popular products manufactured by these companies are the dry powder, wet powder and the direct compression formulas. These granulation tools help you manufacture tablets and other formulations. The ingredients in the formulations help in the quick manufacture of tablets.
The most common types of equipment used for the purpose of granulation are the dry powder and the wet powder. The dry powder machine is mainly used for mass production of dry powder. A person can produce a huge volume of dry powder using a dry powder machine. Likewise, a wet powder machine helps in the manufacture of a huge volume of granulated materials like the paraffin, emulsion, oil emulsions and also the chemical products.
In addition to the granulation tools mentioned above, the other important dry mixing and granulation machines include the following double roller extrusion granulation equipment technique, wet granulation equipment technique, direct compression machine, automated wet mixing machine, automated dry mixing machine, wet granulation equipment technique, powder metering system, wet granulation equipment technique and the automatic injection machine. The dry powder machine can be used for manufacturing fine powders and also for preparing a variety of creams, lotions and even cosmetics. On the other hand, the wet granulation equipment technique is used for manufacturing soap flakes and also for preparing a variety of pharmaceutical products. Direct compression equipment is used for mixing and manufacturing a huge volume of foam, liquid and also dispensed powders.
All of these equipment's are extremely cost-effective. Therefore, there is no need to go for a high quality equipment which may not necessarily offer a long-term benefit. In fact, a cost-effective and a long-term solution lies with the use of the dry granulation machine. When you are buying the dry granulation machine, always look for the best option available in the market. Look for the one that is highly productive, efficient and has a high quality control panel.
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A Complete Overview about Cylindrical Roller Bearings | Skill On Tech
Cylindrical roller bearing have high radial-load capacity and moderate thrust loads. They contain rollers which are cylindrically-shaped, but are not true cylinders. Instead, these rollers are crowned or end-relieved to reduce stress concentrations. This geometry results in low friction and allows for high-speed applications. Cylindrical roller bearings are commonly available in precision grades such as RBEC-5, a classification from the Roller Bearing Engineers Committee (RBEC). RBEC ratings describe the accuracy and tolerance range for different types of bearings. As a rule, the higher the RBEC number, the tighter the bearing tolerances. Typically, cylindrical roller bearings are lubricated with oil, which also serves as a coolant.
Most cylindrical roller bearings are made of alloy steels or low-carbon steels. Some applications require the use of case-hardened or thorough-hardened, high-carbon, bearing-quality steel. High-carbon grades of steel do not require carburizing and can be case-hardened by induction heating or thorough-hardened by conventional heating methods. When low-carbon, carburized grades of steel are used, carbon is introduced after the cylindrical roller bearings are machined to a depth sufficient to produce a hardened case that can sustain bearing loads. The addition of carbon and alloys ensures the proper combination of a hard, fatigue-resistant case and a tough, ductile core.
The bearing industry uses a standard, numbered system for roller bearings with metric-diameter bores. For bore sizes 04 and up, multiply the bore size by 5 to identify the bore diameter in millimeters (mm). The outside diameter of cylindrical roller bearings includes the housing (if any), but excludes the flange. Other important specifications for cylindrical roller bearings include overall width, rated speed (oil), static axial load, static radial load, dynamic axial load, and dynamic radial load. Static axial load and static radial load are, respectively, the maximum axial and radial loads that bearings can withstand without permanent deformation.
There are many applications for cylindrical roller bearings. Examples include mining, petroleum production, power generation, power transmission, cement processing, aggregate crushing, and metal recycling. Some cylindrical roller bearings are used in briquetting machines, rubber mixing equipment, rolling mills, rotary dryers, or pulp and paper machinery. Others are used in construction equipment, crushers, electric motors, blowers and fans, gears and drives, plastics machinery, machine tools and traction motors and pumps.Roller bearings come in a wide range of shapes and sizes, and can be customized for specialized situations. Also, the use of flanges, cages, and multiple bearing rows can allow for higher performance to meet specific application needs. Get the complete tutorial and video of Cylindrical roller bearing at Skill on Tech.
For more information please visit our website: Skillontech.com
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Rio 2016 Individual Women’s Rhythmic Gymnastics
Sport:
Rhythmic Gymnastics
Court Dimensions:
The standard performance area for both men and women is 12m x 12m. The border is 100cm minimum and where there is a delimitation strip between the performance area and the border, the strip is 5cm wide and included as part of the performance area.
Equipment:
Rope
Hoop
Ball
Clubs
Ribbon
Basic Skills:
Walking
Running
Leaping
Jumping
Hopping
Galloping
Sliding
Skipping
Bending
Swaying
Swinging
Turning
Twisting
Stretching
Rope:
Swings
Throws
Circles
Rotations
Figures of eight
Hoop:
Swings
Throws
Circles
Rotations
Figures of eight
Ball:
Throwing
Bouncing
Rolling
Clubs:
Mills
Small circles
Swings
Ribbon:
Swings
Circles
Serpants
Spirals
Technical and Tactical Skills:
The aim of technical preparation is to create and improve sports skills. Each sports skill has a given way of solving a motor task (contents of a sports skill) in accordance with the rules of a given sport, biomechanical rules and locomotive possibilities of the athlete which are referred to as technique. Specific individual adjustment of technique by an athlete is referred to as style.
understanding the technique as a unity of its internal and external features
step-by-step procedure of its acquiring
stabilizing the technique
comprehensive conception (contents organization)
conscious activity of both the athlete and coach
Tactical skills are understood as certain procedures or models of competition situations solutions acquired by training.
strategy is understood as a pre-prepared plan of actions in a specific competition
the plan is defined by key strategy points (points in competition when the athlete makes decisions according to given strategy in so-called conflicting situations)
tactics further analyzes and shows possible solutions of individual competition situations (conflicting situations)
focuses on practical implementation of these situations within given plan (strategy)
tactics (individual, group, team, offensive, defensive)
Implementing tactical actions is carried out on the following axis:
perception and analysis (situation occurence – situation recognition – situation analysis)
mental solution (solution proposal – soluction selection)
movement solution (solution execution, feedback)
Tactics is being solved within competition situations which are characterized by conditions.
We can differentiate between two types of conditions:
fixed (sports ground, sports area, equipment etc.)
changing (referee, audience, route, ball bounce etc.)
Rules of the Game:
Only female athletes compete in Levels 1–4. Levels A, B, C, and Group are mixed gender.
Athletes must compete on the same level in all chosen individual events. (Either A, B, C, 1, 2, 3 or 4.)
Athletes may specialize by competing in one or more events at their chosen level. Gymnasts who do all four events at a level are considered All-Around. (i.e., Specialist: Level I Hoop and Ball; All-Around: Level I Rope, Hoop, Ball, and Ribbon)
A gymnast may perform in one or two group routines in addition to individual routines, or perform just in group routines (no individual).
The video of the compulsory routines is the official version. If a difference exists between the video and the written text, the video must be followed. For group routines, the video is the only version of the choreography
Compulsory routines may be reversed in their entirety (mirror image).
Olympic order for rhythmic gymnastics is rope, hoop, ball, clubs, ribbon.
Unified Sports Rhythmic Gymnastics Events
All rules and regulations apply equally to athletes and partners.
Unified competition is allowed in both Pairs and Group events.
In Unified Pairs events, the athlete and unified partner can either perform together as a duet or separately. One panel of judges will evaluate the athlete’s routine and one panel will evaluate the unified partner’s routine. The scores are added together for a unified team score.
In the Group events, there must be an equal number of athletes and partners in each group. Modifications
Visually Impaired Athletes – Coaches must notify the meet director and judges of the athlete’s visual impairment before the competition and prior to each routine. In order to aid the athletes, the following types of assistance are permissible for all levels of competition without deduction:
Audible cues, such as clapping, may be used in all routines.
Music may be played at any close point outside of the mat, or the coach may carry the music source around the perimeter of the mat.
Hearing Impaired Athletes – Coaches must notify the meet director and judges of the athlete’s hearing impairment before the competition and prior to each routine.
The athlete may receive a visual aid from the coach to begin her routine as the music starts. Awarding of Medals
Medals (or ribbons) are awarded for each event and for All-Around.
Gymnasts may receive a maximum of seven awards: one for each of the four events, one for All Around and two for group.
Gymnasts who compete Group only may receive a maximum of two awards: one for each group routine
Rope specifications
Material: The rope may be of hemp or synthetic material, provided that it possesses the identical qualities of lightness and suppleness as rope made of hemp.
Length: The length should be proportionate to the size of the gymnast.
Ends: Handles of any kind are not allowed, but one or two knots are permitted at each end. At the ends (to the exclusion of all other parts of the rope), a maximum of 10 centimeters may be covered by an anti-slip material, either colored or neutral.
Shape: The rope may be either of a uniform diameter or be progressively thicker in the center, provided that this thickness is of the same material as the rope.
Color: The rope may be any color or combinations of colors.
Hoop specifications
Material: The hoop may be of wood or plastic, provided that the latter retains its shape during movement. Foreign particles should be removed from inside the hoop before use.
Diameter: The interior diameter of the hoop should be from 60-90 centimeters.
Weight: A minimum of 150-300 grams and up.
Shape: The cross-section of the hoop may be in several different shapes: circular, square, rectangular, oval, etc. The hoop may be smooth or ridged.
Color: The hoop may be any color or combination of colors. The hoop may be partially or fully covered with tape to add colors.
Ball specifications
Material: The ball may be made of rubber or synthetic material (pliable plastic), provided that the latter possesses the same elasticity as rubber.
Diameter: 14-20 centimeters.
Color: The ball may be of any color.
Clubs specifications
Material: the clubs may be made of wood or synthetic material.
Length: 25-50 centimeters from one end to the other.
Shape: A shape similar to that of a bottle. The wider part is called the body. The narrow part, the neck, ends in a small sphere, the head.
Color: The clubs may be of a neutral color or may be colored (all or partially) with one or several colors.
Ribbon specifications
Stick
Material: wood, bamboo, plastic, fiberglass.
Diameter: a maximum of 1 centimeter at its widest part.
Shape: cylindrical or conical, or a combination of the two shapes.
Length: 45-60 centimeters, including the ring, which permits the fastening of the ribbon to the stick. The bottom end of the stick may be covered by an adhesive, anti-slip tape or may have a rubber handle a maximum length of 10 centimeters at the level of the grip. The top of the stick where the ribbon will be attached may consist of:
A supple strap (string or nylon) held in place by a nylon thread wound around the stick for a maximum of 5 centimeters.
A metal ring fixed directly onto the stick.
A metal ring (vertical, horizontal or oblique) fixed to the stick by two metal pins held in place
by nylon or metallic thread wound around the stick for a maximum of 5 centimeters.
A metal ring (fixed, mobile or pivoting) or a supple strap fixed to a metal tip of no more than 3 centimeters.
A metal ring fixed by two metal pins held by a metal tip of 3 centimeters long, which is lengthened by nylon or metallic thread wound around the stick, adding up to a maximum length of 5 centimeters.
Color: any choice. Ribbon
Material: satin or similar non-starched material.
Color: any choice of a single color, two colors or multicolored. Width: 4-6 centimeters.
Length: From one end to the other, the finished length of the ribbon should be a minimum of 1 meter to a maximum of 6 meters (for Levels A, B), a minimum of 2 meters to a maximum of 6 meters (for Level C) and a minimum of 3 meters to a maximum of 6 meters (for Levels 1-4). This part must be in one piece.
The end which is attached to the stick is doubled for a maximum length of 1 meter. This is stitched down both sides. At the top, a very thin reinforcement or rows of machine stitching for a maximum of 5 centimeters is authorized. This extremity may end in a strap, or have an eyelet (a small hole, edged with buttonhole stitch or metal circle), to permit attaching the ribbon.
Attachment of the ribbon to the stick
The ribbon is fixed to the stick by means of a supple attachment, such as thread, nylon cord, or a series of articulated rings.
The length of this attachment is a maximum of 7 centimeters (not counting the strap or metal ring at the end of the stick where it will be fastened).
Floor
13 meters by 13 meters with a security zone of 1 meter around. A carpeted area may be used or a floor that is neither too tacky nor slippery.
The ceiling height does not need to be 8 meters (26’ 3”), but should be fairly high.
How to Officiate the Sport:
Coaches - gives instructions to athletes, makes sure that they are on a good condition, give support and constructive criticism to the athletes.
Referee - assess penalties, explain and enforces the rules
Head Judge - does the final decision
Line Judges - positioned at opposite corners of the competition floor to record out-of-bounds violations
Timers - records and monitors the time of the performance
Analysis:
Hoop Gymnasts
Russia - She really displayed some great exhibitions with her hoops, she exudes overflowing confidence. Her leaps and turns are very precise and controlled, she moves with grace yet defined actions.
Azerbaijan - Displayed new and unique stunts and tricks, she moves one with her hoops. A little mistake during the start but quickly composes herself and displayed a great performance. Her music really suited her movements and very timing with the beats.
Russia - Amazing display of spot on flexibility, she uses her hoop very well. Her performance could really move the audience. You could hardly tell that the hoop is separate from her body as it slows so smoothly together like it is one.
Belarus - Her costume is very chic and stylish, her moves are very smooth. She handles the hoop as if it is a part of her body. However I can’t tell that her moves were unique or apart from the other performers.
France - The costume is really eye catching and cute, I could tell she is not as flexible like the others. There were some mishandling of the hoop, she did however perform with grace. She finished great and really showed exquisite leaps.
Belarus - Her costume is very colorful and chic, her turning leaps are very spot on. She displays amazing flexibility, however there are small lapses in her performance. Her music somewhat made it hard for her to connect her movements with the beats.
Espanya - Her music is appropriately displayed through her performance, there are also lapses in her performance. She displayed turns and loops that are uniquely exhibited with the use of her hoops.
Korea - Her costume is very attractive and dashing, her movements are very smooth and graceful. She uses her hoop well, and her leaps are spot on. She displays her flexibility in a different way.
Ukraine - She displayed great control and precision. She is very flexible and handles her hoop smoothly. Her leaps are very powerful and energetic, her use of lively music was very great.
Bulgaria - Her hoop handling is very precise and graceful at the same time. She is very flexible, displays powerful movements. You couldn’t see a hint of hesitation, she ended her performance amazingly.
Ball Gymnasts
Russia - Her ball handling is amazing and without fail. She handles the ball with grace and elegance. Her flexibility is great, she finished her performance strong.
Azerbaijan - Her performance shows speed yet the way she handles the ball is very smooth. Her tricks are very amazing, committed minor mistakes in the middle. Nevertheless a great performer.
Russia - Her costume is very chic and eye catching. Her leg raises really show her flexibility and her ball handling is on point. She moves around the platform with grace and elegance and she finished her performance strong.
Belarus - Her costume is so stylish and snazzy, her music is upbeat which was shown through her performance. You could see speed yet smooth all handling. Her bends really show so much of her flexibility.
France - the color of her costume scream elegance, she used a dynamic music which is clearly displayed through her performance. She has great elevation with her throws, she also displays her amazing flexibility. Although there are also lapses in her performance.
Belarus - Her ball handling is precise, she also shows her flexibility through different stunts. Her confidence really shows all through out her performance.
Espanya - A stylish blue costume, a great display of flexibility. Her music choice is appropriate for her performance. Her dance could really move audience, She has great ball handling.
Korea - She exudes confidence, her leg raises are very precise. Her gracefulness is very evident as she moves with clarity. Her ball handling is great and displayed amazing stunts.
Ukraine - Her costume is a little off for me however her movements really synchronized with her movements. Her ball handling is very smooth and clean, she displays great flexibility. She performed difficult pivots yet didn’t make a single mistake.
Bulgaria - She performs with speed in line with the beat of her music. Her stunts are unique and very precise. A little trouble in handling the ball, but continues performing greatly and ending it with power.
Club Gymnasts
Russia - Her music is too fast for her movements. I don’t see the synchronization of her movement with her music. She did however exude confidence, and has great club handling but a slight problem with her control.
Azerbaijan - Her costume is chic, she displays great control. She displays her flexibility amazingly and handles her clubs with rhythm.
Russia - Her flexibility is shown in accordance with her body control. Her music choice is somewhat off with her movements. She shows mastery in handling her clubs and she ended strong.
Belarus - Her movements are unique and graceful. Her flexibility is on point and she displays great mastery in handling her clubs. Her chosen music is very solemn and is appropriate with her movements.
France - Her performance doesn’t coincide with her music. She mistakenly dropped her clubs and was a little hesitant with her movements after. She did however ended amazingly.
Belarus - She has great club handling, she uses her platform well. Had trouble in handling her clubs, her performance was not the best I’ve seen so far as she had too many errors.
Espanya - Her music is very lively coinciding with her actions. She shows speed all through out her performance. Has great synchronization and displays amazing stunts. Her flexibility is very amazing and was displayed well.
Korea - Her costume is very stylish and beautiful, she somehow made errors in handling her clubs. Her performance had lapses and lacks effort to me. She did however ended amazingly.
Ukraine - Her club handling is on point, her music coincide with her performance. She displayed speed all throughout without losing focus and grace. Her flexibility was amazing and she ended her performance astonishingly.
Bulgaria - Her costume is very bright and attractive. She shows mastery in handling her clubs, there was no visible hesitation during her stunts. Her music is somewhat off from her performance but nevertheless a great over all performance.
Ribbon Gymnasts
Russia - Clean movements but I am not very fascinated with her ribbon handling. She did however displayed her flexibility well. She also has great control and balance. An over all great performance.
Azerbaijan - A very festive and stylish costume at the same time. She displays great elevation during her leaps. Her ribbon handling is very fascinating to watch and it’s as if the ribbon is floating and moving on its own. Her speed is incredible which really highlighted the movements of the ribbon. Her finishing performance was splendid.
Russia - Her ribbon handling is great, it really grabs an audience’s attention. I could however say there us a lack of speed in the ribbon movements. But over all a performance that’s shows elegance.
Belarus - She performs with speed especially in handling the ribbon. She displays great control and her performance was very fascinating especially with how the ribbons move. She used the space very well to her advantage.
France - Her ribbon handling is great but not the best I’ve seen so far. She did display however unique stunts and moves. Committed some errors along the way but managed to end her performance well.
Belarus - Her costume is so attractive and festive, Her ribbon handling is amazing especially with her speed. She had minor mistakes but she was able to display a great performance. She didn’t disappoint as her performance was over all splendid.
Espanya - Her flexibility mixed with her ribbon handling was superb. Her music choice was amazing and really fitted well with her performance. She did however used too much time in performing and ended a little badly.
Korea - Her costume is stylish and very bright, she shows mastery in handling her ribbon. Her speed is also enough to display the ribbon amazingly. Her flexibility matched well with how she handles her ribbons. Her execution of the moves are spot on.
Ukraine - Her costume is unique, and her ribbon handling really shows great mastery. Her speed in handling the ribbon is exceptional. Shows great precision and clearly enjoys her own performance. And she ended amazingly with overflowing confidence.
Bulgaria - Her costume is not the only thing festive but it also greatly matches her chosen music. Her choreography is amazing especially with her ribbon handling that shows speed. Her energy not faltering even for a second and really ended her performance well.
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just for the fuck of it!
in real life i hate ted talks, i don’t think they’re generally good scientific communication and they appeal to a narrow spectrum of white moderate liberals with liberal arts degrees, generally. the format makes me teeth hurt.
but I WILL ramble on about a topic of my choice, thank you, even though that’s just a regular fuckin’ day here on girlfriendsofthegalaxy dot tumblr dot com.
For someone who only sort of cares about her personal wardrobe, I sure do spend a lot of time thinking about fabric. I also spend a lot of time thinking about Fallout: New Vegas, so let’s combine the two.
Where the fuck are people getting their clothes, and how are they making them? The game specifically points out the outfits that are pre-War, although if those are surviving garments or new garments made in a pre-War style is not discussed. From that, I’m assuming that mostif not all clothing regular NPCs wear on the street is of post-War manufacture.
So, how the fuck are people making clothes? From what? Using what methods?
The sheer variety of clothing available points to small mechanical looms and sewing machines. Sewing machines are fairly simple machines and I’m convinced there’s a mix of surviving pre-War and post-War manufactured ones kicking around. They’ve also got a makeshift power grid, which means a decent wire-making setup, which means metal needles. Bone needles are probably more common among hand/home sewers.
Shoes are actually fairly easy- the game is lousy with giant geckos, from which you can slap onto leather and metal armor to create gecko-backed armor, which provides additional types of damage resistance. There’s a very cute poster in a fanzine about gecko hide boots. I have lifted this concept wholesale for my own fic, bc everyone walks everywhere and everyone needs good boots. Most boots in-game appear hobnailed or have some sort of traction on the bottom. I don’t think shoe leather is a problem in New Vegas, although more specialized shoes like waders and sneakers are probably much harder, since there’s no petroleum rubber (a main plot point of FO2 is that there’s very little oil and gas left) and rubber trees can only grow outside if they’re in zones 10-11, which is a chunk of California that got whacked pretty hard by the bombs. Is it possible that someone in New California has bioengineered isoprene and now they’ve got vast stocks of non-petroleum synthetic rubber? Maybe? Doesn’t really fit with the tech we see in-game. The shoe rubber we see can’t all possibly be repurposed tires.
Wool is harder but if we squint we can make it fit into existing lore without a ton of problems. The in-game large domestic meat animal, the bighorner, is a hair sheep not a wool sheep. Animal hair is useful for other things, but it’s hard to make yarn out of. There are probably fluffier breeds in higher not-desert altitudes. So we’ve got socks now, winter wear, and good blankets, and felt for hats. Various flavors of looms have existed long before the Industrial Revolution and I don’t see why they’re not in-game, or why weaving mills don’t exist in the Mojave. Knitting needles and crochet hooks are just fancy sticks, you can whittle them with a minimum of fuss.
Linen is also a little wibbly lore-wise but sort of fits- there are no flax fields in-game but flax is a very tolerant plant, so I could see regions outside the Mojave successfully growing it.
A surprising number of people wear jeans. Where the fuck is everyone getting jeans from? Cotton is not a staple crop in California today. Post-War California certainly don’t have the manpower or infrastructure for massive fields of cotton or the required processing, everyone’s a truck farmer or a Brahmin herder, to the point the NCR’s army is having extreme difficulty getting food for its troops. Is there some massive pre-War stock everyone’s been pulling from for two hundred years? Interestingly, the Legion’s armor is mostly football armor, so this does point to them having a pre-War warehouse full of the stuff somewhere.
The Brotherhood of Steel have really uniform uniforms, if that makes any sense, with less variation than the New California Republic’s standing army in (hemp?) canvas. They don’t have the tech to make new suits of power armor, although I can’t quote that bc I can’t find it again and I have no memory of where I heard it. @morrak is convinced they have the technology to make rayon (invented in the 1890s in our timeline), and I agree bc it’s a finicky multi-step process with lots of drying and waiting time and they’re all nerds stuck in a bunker although I do NOT know where they’re getting the cellulose they are in a desert and wood is at a premium.
The Raiders’ armor is mostly rags and spikes and sandals made out of old tires, which is also interesting and more of a scavenged Mad Max 2&3 vibe than the other factions, which fits their whole schtick.
This is many words and I’m reaching the end of my own attention span, I’m sure I have another couple thousand words in me about this but these are the thoughts I am dumping out of my head right now. I haven’t said a single thing about dyes and patterns and prints, for example.
#ain't that a kick in the head#ty!!!#i've probably yelled about at least some of this before#but my brain is a sieve#shiny-good-rock
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