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therovingrunner · 7 years ago

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Conquering/Surviving the Grail of Trail

Ever since I read an article by my good friend & trail running mentor, Patrick Cruywagen, on his experience at the Otter Trail Run in 2009, it has been in the back of my mind, and right on the top of my bucket list. To be honest, this was the article that got me running trail in the first place, and I was lucky enough to do my first few multi-stage races with Pat before he left for the UK.

Dubbed the Grail of Trail, The Forbidden Run, this iconic trail in the Tsitsikamma Section of the Garden Route National Park is only allowed to be run during the event week, as running it during into other time of the year could and will see you banned from the trail.

Ironically, it was due to the illegal running of brothers John & Mark Collins that the idea of this race was born. Back in the day they use to run the route after first dropping off their bicycles in Nature’s Valley, driving back to the start of the trail, running it, and then cycling back to Storms River Mouth camp site to pick up their cars again. No easy feat, as this 40 odd kilometre stretch of trail covers all kinds of terrain, and requires 100% concentration at all times.

The Otter route profile

My love/hate affair with the Otter finally started in 2013 when I received an opportunity from a sponsor at a very late stage to go run the Challenge. Under prepared, and over enthusiastic I accepted, and going in with no expectations either than to finish, I had a blast!

Crossing Bloukrans in 2013! Image Peter Kirk

In 2015 I was back, but things did not go according to plan, and I had to go for a tetanus shot to recover from the Otter bite that day! What made 2015 even more terrible was that I convinced a friend to run too, and after my own disappointing run, sitting at the finish line looking at the clock ticking by past the 8 hour mark knowing that Will has missed the cut. He eventually came in at 8:10, a broken man. The worst part that night was getting up to receive my medal, but looking back and seeing the disappointment in his eyes.

Will & I, in good spirits before the start of Otter 2015. Image Jacques Marais

I made him a promise that night that I’d come back the following year to do the Retto with him, but unfortunately a back injury had me out and a promise broken. I was given the opportunity to do some media work though and ran half the route from Oakhurst to the finish, just in time to see him cross the line at Stormsriver, with 45min to spare on the clock. Mission accomplished!

But our story doesn’t end there, and the human mind is a great thing. Will wanted that Otter medal, so we found ourselves back again this year, Will giving it another crack at the classic route, myself toeing the line for the 3rd time.

This time I felt good about my training (not great) and was relatively confident that I would make the target I set myself.

Personally, I don’t think any amount of training will ever result in an easy running of the Otter, although specific Otter training will go a long way in making it easier or more tolerable, but although my training included a lot of climbing, finding stairs in the Helderberg Basin is either the most well kept secret or doesn’t exist. With over 7000 steps along the way & almost 3000m vertical ascent to negotiate, various river mouths & streams to cross, and the continual undulating technical terrain, it makes for possibly the most difficult/challenging trail in SA.

This year I set myself 2 goals after a pretty disappointing 2nd run in 2015. I wanted to make the Abangeni, The Challengers, or top 24 fastest runners after the prologue, and run a sub-6 hour race.

Prologue time! Image Jacques Marais

So heading through the Thursday afternoon already meant this year I would be in the vicinity of the race village and not still be on the road towards it come registration/prologue day. With rain having falling during the previous day’s Challenge (the 11hour cut-off race), and still a light drizzle in the air, I decided to rather go earlier than later, and get the prologue done & dusted before the trail either gets to wet & worn out, or it becomes hot later in the day. So with registration and a full scale kit check done, it was time to lace up and face the music.

Although the prologue is a mere 3km, it’s a great simulation of the Otter trail and gives you a very clear idea of what you’ll be in for the following day! It is probably the hottest contested 3km in any trail event, but is a bit of a catch 22. If you want to challenge for the Otter win, you have to go out hard and make the Abangeni. But for us mere mortals, going flat out during the prologue can mean that it comes back to bite you in the ass the following day.

Mission 1 accomplished, make the Abangeni! √

The Abangeni

Time to rest & recover. Or so I thought, as Will arrived slightly later than expected, and I found myself down at the race village again to support him during his run. This did give me the opportunity to catch up with some “old” Otter friends or family as I see them now. Maybe the planned nap would have been a better choice, but I’m a sucker for all things trail, either running or supporting!

D-Day has arrived, and after a quick warm up trot and final kit check I found myself in the starting chute with the rest of the Abangeni including favourites Kane Reilly, Thabang Madida, Christiaan Greyling (who would go on to win) and on the ladies side Megan Levinson, Robyn Owen & Carla van Huyssteen to mention a few.

The Abangeni gets a 10 minute head start on the rest of the field. There after runners are set off in batches of 4 (according to their prologue times) every 30sec to minimize the bottleneck effect when then trail becomes single track soon after the start.

Early days on the way to Nqubu Hut! Image Jacques Marais

My plan was to start off conservatively as in my last two runs I really struggled during the last 5 or so km’s, which technically wise, is the easiest on the entire trail. I have made myself certain time checks at the various huts playing around with the 5-6 hour time bands, and was still relatively spot on till I reached the infamous Bloukrans crossing.

The leaders Kane Reilly (top) & Christiaan Greyling hitting Bloukrans! Images Jacques Marais

1 slip on the very moss covered rocks as I made my way to the safety line, an awkward landing which led to an even more awkward cramp on my inner thighs, made for a very interesting last 12km or so to the finish! Hitting the cold water of Bloukrans, jumping over or diving under rolling waves, not only cooled the body, but also led to a few more cramps as I swam/pulled myself across!

I wrote Rule #5 of the sportsman’s code, HTFU (Harden the F**k Up) on my hand prior to the run, but by the time I got through Bloukrans it had been reduced to a mere scribble looking like I F (I’m F**ked)

Some technical terrain just after Bloukrans. Image Jacques Marais

The next 4km of technical trail and the last big climb from André Hut was a real struggle, and the cramps would come back to bite me with every step up the stairs!

Reaching the plateau on the top, and probably the easiest section on the whole trail, I could actually run again at a decent rate, although with about 5km to go, and knowing what still lay ahead, I knew my sub-6 goal was out of reach!

Just as I was about to completely throw in the towel, good mate Stuart McConnachie came past me, stopped, took out his phone, took a selfie, gave some words of encouragement & the promise of a cold beer later, and disappeared into the distance nearly as quickly as he came from behind! The quick joke & conversation shared was just enough, and where this section has caused me a few issues on previous occasions, I had a decent run in to the finish, ducking below 6:20, and a new PB.

Stu & I with a few km’s to go! Image Stuart McConnachie

I still have mixed emotions about the day, and that probably is why it took me 2 weeks to put the day in perspective. On any occasion if you run a PB you should be feeling great, as you gave it your all? But not in my case! I wanted that sub-6, felt I had done enough, and for the first time actually finished strong compared to the other 2 times. So where did it go wrong? Should I have pushed a little harder at the start on terrain that is normally my strong suit? Should I have gunned the few downs a bit faster and not hold back so much? I’ll probably never know, till I run this magnificent piece of coastline once again! So 2019 will see me toeing the line once again if all goes according to plan, but I reckon a “route scout” next year during the Retto will be the first “training run” on the #RoadToOtter 2019!

You may ask so what happened to Will? Well, he’s now the proud owner of two Sub-8 red medals with a back to back Retto/Otter combo, coming in just over 7:20. That was right up there as 1 of the biggest highlights for me of the entire weekend, the other being good friend Christiaan Greyling’s super come from behind win!

Christiaan Greyling on his way to victory at the Otter African Trail Run 2017. Image Peter Kirk

As always, a big thank you must go out to the Collins crew behind Magnetic South, Mark, John, Christine & Belen! Your passion for nature, specifically the Otter Trail and trail running in general is clear to see and infectious! It always feels like going to a family reunion when seeing the familiar event staff & friends like Matty, the river captain without a boat, Ruan Lückhoff, and all the others that are part of the Otter family, Jacques Marais, Peter Kirk, Jeff Ayliffe and many many more!

To the sponsors that make this event possible, Salomon, GU, SanParks, Buff, Bayport etc, we appreciate all you bring to this event.

My personal sponsors, Columbia Sportswear, Tailwind Nutrition, Racefood & Hilly Socks, thank you for the continuous support and letting me live this passion or lifestyle called TRAIL everyday!

And last but not least, my wife Karien & the kids, Janke & Christoff, who has supported me through this journey, waking up countless Saturday & Sunday mornings with a husband/dad already out the house on training runs, missing family time and trips! I’ll make it up over the coming months before the #RoadToRetto starts again!

#The Otter African Trail run #The Otter Trail Run #Road2Otter #Road2Retto #Christiaan Greyling #trailrunning #GrailOfTrail #Jacques Marais #Magnetic South

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