#ranchgarden

[terrificbroth]

The last weekend of September. #landscaping #ranchgarden #flagstonepatio #houndmix #houndsofinstagram #pitbullsofinstagram #bluepitbull #bluepit https://www.instagram.com/p/CjBAEhKgjFF/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[seeingplants]

Critters Have to Eat too... Part 2

This fava bean is infested with aphids and too much work and water use to clean off for eating, but the closer I look, the more fascinated I am with the symbiotic activity taking place: aphids are feasting on the phloem sap of the fava bean plant while lady bird beetles feast on the aphids. Ants are harvesting the honeydew from aphids at the base of the plant while ladybird beetles are laying their eggs on the undersides of the leaves on top. It goes to show that the best food gardens benefit everyone! 

[seeingplants]

Spring Blooms 2017

Spring blooms have arrived! It’s always good to have documentation for education and inspiration. I’ll be adding pictures of blooms I come across in my gardens and other natural settings throughout the season.

Herb Garden

Poppy 'Afghan Pink & White' (Papaver hybridum) and Waverly Sage (Salvia ‘Waverly’) in the background.  

February 28-March 8th: Stages of a Poppy 'Afghan Pink & White' (Papaver hybridum) blossom.

March 14: Flax (Linum usitatissimum), one of my favorite useful plants. Herb Garden.

March 15: Origami Rose and White Columbine (Aquilegia x hybrida ‘Rose and White’), top left; Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), top right; Jasmine White Tobacco (Nicotiana alata), bottom left; Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas), bottom right.

Ranch Garden

March 16: Carouby De Maussane Snow Pea (left), Broccoli flowers (top right), Daikon Radish flowers (bottom right).

March 31: Cleveland Sage (Salvia clevelandii) and some kind of Prunus on the hillside orchard.

April 7: Owl’s Clover (Castilleja exserta).

Altadena Community Garden

February 25th: Five Spot (Nemophilia maculata), California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica), Tidytips (Layia platyglossa), Baby Blue Eyes (Nemophilia menziesii). 

March 18th: Chinese Houses (Collinsia heterophylla) left; Lacy Phacelia or Blue Tansy (Phacelia tanacetifolia) top right; Desert Bluebell (Phacelia campanularia).

[seeingplants]

From Garden to Table

Improved Meyer Lemons (top), Chinnotto Oranges (bottom left), and Minneloa Tangelos (bottom right) are the Ranch and Herb Garden’s first shipment to the cafeteria.

Chef Susan Feniger and Chef Powers taste testing our citrus delivery.

Chef Marc Powers and Chef Linda Patora testing out some mint in the Herb garden.

Some citrus displayed in the cafeteria.

Today is the first day we harvested and delivered our citrus crops to the executive chef, Marc Powers. It was enjoyable to also meet Chef Susan and Chef Linda. We’ve worked out a system in which we can provide some of our harvest to them from both the Ranch and Herb Gardens.  I also had a chance to tour Chef Marc and Chef Linda around the Herb garden and briefly discussed with them the possibility of collaboration in the near future. It will be interesting to see what happens next!

[seeingplants]

The Straw Bale Gardening Process

In this post, I will document the process of straw bale gardening from start to finish. More info from WSU extension can be accessed here.

1). Day 1-3: Water thoroughly. February 17-19 Make sure the straw bales are placed where you want them since they will be quite heavy to move after watering. Hand watering or drip will work. We were fortunate enough to set the bales in place the day before one of the largest storms of the season (a predicted heavy rainfall of 4 inches).

All the how-to’s I have read suggest to stand the bale cut side, or the narrower side with no strings, up. I decided instead to lay the bales flat which allows for more surface area to plant. I need to be careful, however, not to accidentally cut off the strings while planting.

2). Day 4-8: Water, Feed and Take the Temperature

February 20-24 The storm that passed through over the weekend really helped to thoroughly soak the bales, so much so, that its temperature raised to an average range of 110-114 degrees F even before applying nitrogen fertilizer.  Nitrogen fertilizer is added to the bales 1) to enrich the bales with plant nutrients and 2) to further help the decomposition process along. While some how-to’s suggest to use a potent nitrogen based fertilizer such as ammonia sulfate or urrea, I decided to use a 7-1-2 organic, non-GMO Soybean Meal. I sprinkle 1/2 cup evenly over the top surface of each bale and thoroughly water it in. After a couple of days, the bales did rise in temperature, but there was a variance; some bales were hovering around 115-120 degrees F, some around 120-130 degrees F.   

3). Week 2 & 3: Continue to Water, Feed and Take the Temperature February 27 - March 13 Week 2: The temperature of the bales are ranging from 90 to 115 degrees Fahrenheit. Though still reaching above ambient air temps, my hope was that they’d maintain their heat above 120-130 degrees F for a full week or so. I am assuming this can be done at a quicker pace and a more sustained level through the application of some kind of high octane chemical fertilizer. The process will be slower since I’m going the organic route, which is fine by me, and ultimately more a preferable practice. 

Week 3: The bale temperatures have gone down to match the ambient air temperatures. I’ve cut back on both watering and feeding to roughly every other day. The bales are retaining their moisture well.  

As shown from the images above, the bales have shrunken in size. They will continue to slowly break down throughout the season. Patches of wheat seed has sprouted and should be weeded out.

4). Week 4: Add Amended Soil.

March 16 Success!! I spotted mushrooms growing out of some of the bales after the weekend. Mushrooms are an indicator that the bales are now ready to plant in. 

Create holes in the bales with a trowel and fill them in with planting mix. I mix 1/3 potting soil with 1/3 compost and 1/3 native soil. The holes are spaced out according to the size of the plant. In the row of bales shown in the picture above, I plan to seed in squash, so I spaced the holes roughly 18-24″ apart.

5). Time to Seed or Plant.

Now that the bales have been properly (and successfully) conditioned, I can take my time to choose the seeds or plants that I’d like to put in them. On March 27th, my intern and I seeded in roughly 4 different kinds of squash in this row of 9 straw bales. The picture below was taken on April 7th. Seed germination has been very successful so far. 

6). Thin and Feed.

April 20 The squash has been thinned to one plant per hole and are continuing to grow out their true leaves at a quick and even pace. 

I noticed that some squash leaves were turning a bit yellow, which could be caused by the nutrient leaching when the bales are watered, or that particular squash cultivars just need a bit of a boost from time to time. I sprinkled some organic fertilizer around each plant and that should help them along their way.

May 5 & 25, 2017

May 5th: The straw bales are continuing to hold in moisture. Now that the plants are established, I will cut watering down to about twice a week. We planted tomatoes and eggplant in the straw bale rows on the left. Corn and beans will grow on both sides of the squash row on the right to show the ‘3 sisters’ way of planting.

May 25th: It’s nice to see the rows taking shape in just 20 days! The bottom left picture shows how much the bales have shrunken in size - some have collapsed more than others. As you can see, there are now crevices in between the bales. From time to time, I reach inside one of them to check its activity and always pull out moist, decomposing straw with some with some healthy worms attached. This is a good sign!

June 12th, 2017

The straw bales are barely visible underneath the vigorously growing squash and tomato plants.  The bottom picture shows our first summer harvest: 

Top row: Summer Crookneck Middle Row, left: Guatemalan Blue Banana (should be harvested when larger) Middle Row, right: Patisson Panache Bottom Row: Green, Striped and Golden Zucchini

Click here to read more about our harvest yields and vegetable varieties in the Vegetable Row Garden 

July 24 & 26 2017

July 24th: We had a very successful harvest of squash in the straw bales and a decent harvest of melons and other fruits and veggies in non straw baled areas (see my post on the Vegetable Row Garden). The final count for our squash harvest in the row of 9 straw bales were 145 pieces. In that row, we planted 6 cultivars with 4 winter and 2 summer varieties.

July 26th: The straw bale row where we planted squash has broken down quickly and beautifully in only 6 months. Moisture is being retained and nutrients are being added to the soil at a quick pace.   

August 23rd, 2017

Just under the straw bale mulch is soil that is dark, moist, and fluffy.  There are earthworms present in every handful - it is an indication of a healthy soil ecosystem.

October 12, 2017

Oct. 12th: The straw bales continue to break down nicely. The Netafim lines buried under the straw help keep the soil moist. Having said that, I see definite improvements with how the soil is retaining moisture and how much more evenly the water is being distributed. In other words, drip line systems work far better when the soil is good.

[seeingplants]

Setting up a Straw Bale Garden

Another fellow Ranch person, Daniel, helped me set up 2 rows of straw bales in the Vegetable Row Garden. This is my first attempt and I’m very excited, particularly to learn another way to garden and the soil building capabilities the straw bales have to offer. Let’s see how this goes!

[seeingplants]

Creating a Natural Seed Bank

 A mixture of flax, borage, poppy, calendula, pelleted carrots, zinnias, fennel, native California wildflower mixed seeds along with many other goodies.

The spontaneous section behind the Herb Garden is just getting started

The Ranch’s spontaneous section was established a couple of years ago.

Last week, I cleaned out and organized a couple year’s worth of seed packets from both the Herb and Ranch gardens’ stock. Both gardens have their own dedicated ‘spontaneous’ section which allows the plants to reseed themselves freely, creating a natural seed bank of flowers, vegetables, and herb seeds. It’s also a great way to attract pollinators and harvest for lunches. I made sure to do this before the next onslaught of rains started in order to take full advantage of the weather conditions. 

[seeingplants]

Seasonal Learning Lessons

A decent first go..yet not without its mishaps!

Leaf damage on beets, presumably by goldfinches.

Small broccoli head about to flower.

Aphid damage.

Water damage on cauliflower from heavy rains.

I’d say it has been a decent first season of listening to, observing, learning from this piece of land. Each season doesn’t come without its lessons and mistakes. It’s good practice for me to take the time to document both the successes and failures in order to continually improve my skill. Above are four examples of some mishaps that occurred this season. Keep reading for more thoughts on the matter..

1. Leaf damage on beets

It was a bit of a challenge to figure out what’s been eating the beet leaves. Whatever it was, it’s food choice was very particular. It would skip the kale, carrots and celery and go after the beets and chard patches. After mulling it over for some time, I (with the help of the botanical director), figured out that it must be the goldfinches! Not a widely reported topic (I can’t imagine why) but here’s a 2012 article from the Minnesota StarTribune: Goldfinches are nature’s ‘turncoats’ which explains the late summer breeding seed based diet of goldfinches, presumably relying on greens and sap in winter months.

Solution: Netting on spinach-related veggies.

2. Small broccoli heads

Broccoli is considered a heavy feeder, according to SFGATE, they also have particular soil, moisture and temperature parameters (will grow larger between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit without bolting) which is why mt former supervisor always preferred broccoli raab to the large-headed type.

Solution: Put them on a regular fertilization schedule, improve the soil.

3. Aphid control

I can try a variety of organic or homemade soaps. I think feeding and amending the soil will also help to prevent bug attacks by keeping the plant healthy from the very beginning.

4. Water damage

We’ve had very heavy rains lately. Covering the heads would help to prevent this. 

[seeingplants]

Vegetable Row Garden

Some volunteer veggies in the Vegetable Row Garden at the Ranch (that have been around since summertime) are ready to harvest for a morning meeting frittata. Most are still on their way to maturity.