#putting money into my emergency savings instead of living 100% paycheck to paycheck. and have a small cushion of not being immediately

[themanwhowouldbefruit]

turns out the income level where you get taxed 20% instead of 15% is not that high

[fireblogger]

Common Money Mistakes

Disposing of disposable income. As you move into the corporate world, or your trade, or even get a promotion at your current job you may start seeing more money coming into your account. Bigger paychecks, better benefits, maybe even bonuses. You’ll probably also start seeing some bigger temptations. When I first started getting a decent paycheck my temptation was to go to the mall and shop at stores like JCPenney’s or Torrid. Now, I spent my entire life buying clothes at second hand stores a couple shirts and pairs of jeans a year. So Torrid’s nice business clothes? That was fancy. I went, I found a brand they carried that I liked quite a bit and I bought several shirts and a few pairs of pants, a blazer with some blouses Maybe spent a couple hundred over a few months, now it would not be exaggerating to say that’s about how much I had spent on clothes my entire life. ($10-15 annual budget 6th grade onwards). And at first it was nice, I was so happy to have made it to the point where I could go out and buy myself a nice shirt. And you know what, that was nice. But it didn’t make me happy in the long-term. After two or three months I stopped going – because sure now I had some nice shirts and business clothes, but I never really wore them. Instead, I started buying Gildan brand shirts online from shops like blankapparel. They’re $2-3 heavy cotton shirts that last forever and are really nice quality. All that disposal income I had been disposing of on clothes was rerouted to high-yield savings accounts instead.

Spending too much on housing. Now, I’m a sucker for an apartment with a washer and dryer in the unit. When I bought my duplex literally what I was most excited about was the fact that there was a washer and dryer. I’m not kidding the first night I drove up an hour from my apartment just to do half a load of laundry. So I can absolutely understand wanting to spend extra on a location with a washer and dryer – but the question is how much extra in my area a washer and dryer can increase rent by ~$100/month if not more. The rule I’ve heard several times is to spend less than 30% of your income on your housing, however that percent is greatly dependent on the cost of living. My rule of thumb – get the cheapest livable place you can find with as many roommates as you can stand. I spent years wishing I had a washer and dryer and instead spent years saving that extra $100 a month (well $50 since I had at least one roommate). So my advice is to find somewhere that’s close enough to your job/school that you can still get there with heating/cooling/no pests and to start saving money from there. Of course, if having an really nice apartment, or having privacy with no roommates is important to you take that into consideration. Just make sure you are considering the future value of that extra rent money instead of just the present value.

Debt. Emergency funds are important, and everyone should have something even if it’s not the 3 – 6 months salary that’s often recommended. Honestly, even an emergency $100 could be very important to have. Some people will use credit cards as their emergency fund, this should be your absolute last resort. Credit cards have very high interest rates, which means that any expenses paid for on a card will grow at an alarmingly fast rate. Say you have a sudden $500 expense, and you have a 24% APY credit card. That means that you will need to pay an additional 2% of interest every month. But because that 2% of interest is compounding it’s not the same as adding $10 every month, instead it’s adding $10 of principal. Which means that your next 2% interest add is 510 * 1.02 rather than 500 * 1.02. Let’s say in this scenario that you make a payment of $15 a month towards your $500 debt. It will take you 56 months to pay down the balance, and you will end up paying over $332 in interest. Making your total cost closer to $832.It will take almost two years before your $15 payment goes more towards principal than interest! Now imagine spending that $500 on a new phone, or pair of shoes, or some other non-essential non-emergency. It’s a bad idea.

Not saving for Retirement. Now this whole blog is geared towards early retirement, but that’s not everyone’s cup of tea. Maybe you like your job. Maybe you don’t mind your job and prefer living at a certain income level rather than trying to save every penny for retirement. Maybe you’re early in your career and don’t feel like you make enough to save for early retirement. You should still be saving for retirement. The greatest asset we have is time, and investing earlier even if it’s in small amounts, gives it time to grow. A $1,000 invested when you’re 25 can grow to be double what $1,000 invested when you’re 35 would. Even if it’s only a few dollars a week start investing early, brokerage platforms like Robinhood have very low minimums and you can invest in funds or ETFs on it.

If you invest, don’t be conservative. I had this problem when I first started investing. I let an older finance manager invest my first $3,000 with the understanding that it would be a retirement account. HE PUT IT ALL I N BONDS???? Okay, I’m young, I should be focused on growth with most if not all of my funds in stock. They’re higher risk, but if I’m planning on holding them for 20-30 years that risk is greatly mitigated. I lost over a year of growth before I realized that the retirement fund he had put my money in was intended for people in the 50s to 60s that already had a decent amount of value and now needed lower risk and lower growth investment vehicles. Since I moved my portfolio out of bonds and into stocks it has nearly doubled, the red line is when I realized my mistake and switched my funds into a stock portfolio.

Go big or Go Home!

[kimminstudying]

Note: I’m pretty sure I made this list last summer and since school finally over I figured I would reflect on these and see how well I did and how I could improve. Linked below is the original post that has all of the goals I will be talking about, but since I write them down here I’m sure you don’t need to read it to understand what I am talking about, but I put it there just in case. This is just a review of my goals from last year, I will create a separate post for my new goals for this summer and next year. 

The Original Post

⊳ Money

Goal #1: Work towards saving more of your paychecks ✓

I did a good job of saving money, but I went back and forth as time went on. During the summer I would spend money at work during my breaks but I was making way more than I am currently during the school year. I would still spend money like I was when I was making more, but when I learned that I got better at budgeting my cash. 

Now that I have a car and have a monthly bill for it as well as gas, I am getting better at saving the money I need for the said bill. 

I plan on moving out within the year so I need to save up as much as I possibly can. I am moving out with two of my best friends, if all goes as planned, we will be splitting rent and bills between the three of us. 

Goal #2: Put half of checking into a savings account on payday ✖ I did this for a while, but then I saw that it wasn’t really helping me as much as I thought it would. I would end up having like $6 in my checking account before payday comes so I didn’t see a point in just transferring $3 when I was going to get more of it, so what I did was estimate how much money I would need for the week and then put the rest in savings. If I knew I was going out or had bills to pay during that week, I would leave that money in the account. This proved to work way better for me than what I had originally planned to do. 

What I ended up doing was creating a separate savings account for my new house/apartment so I had an emergency account and a moving out account. I would only use my emergency account for things like bills, unpredicted expenses, or big purchases such as a new laptop for school and blogging. But I keep it at $500, just in case I needed it. Right now it’s at like $450 since I needed to pay my car bill and I didn’t work much this week, but what I do is I rebuild it as fast as possible and hopefully, I do not need to take more money out of it.

When I am rebuilding my emergency fund, not as much or no money goes into my “moving out” account, so I am more motivated to save money so I can get both accounts back in order. I am going back to my old job this summer, since it is seasonal work, and I know I am going to be working close to 40 hours a week since I will be 18 they would work me as much as possible, which I like since it’s a job I love with wonderful coworkers. Not to mention we get so many gift cards it’s not even funny. We all love free money. 

*Update: My family has encouraged me to stay home while I am studying at a college that I am commuting to. My father said he won’t charge me rent as long as he can afford to keep me at home and even if he does it won’t be more than $100 a month which he and I agreed on for a price. That account is now for saving up for a new car. 

Goal #3: Have a spending limit when going out ✓

This goes along with what I was saying before about leaving money in my checking account if I have plans to spend it. I like planning my week out and so I tell my friends if they want to make plans they need to do it a few days in advance so I can see if I don’t have work or scheduled time to study, since I am the “nerd” if my group, all of my friends respect how I plan things. 

They also respect when I tell them I don’t have money to go out. Sometimes I’d rather save my money than use it on movie tickets, of course with the occasional splurge here and there on a new pair of shoes or a delicious dinner. When times get like that, we all agree to do something else that is either really cheap or free, such as having a sleepover or going to the park. 

Goal #4: Establish an “okay amount” to spend daily on coffee, breakfast, etc. ✖

I also did this for a little while, putting away $15 every check to get coffee in the morning before school. Since saving money is a learning experience, I’m messing up now rather than ten or twenty years from now. Doing this put be at risk for developing bad spending habits, $3-$4 a day adds up way faster than you think, the next thing you know you’re spending over $50 in a month for morning coffee runs. Now I’m not saying I never go to buy food and coffee before or after school, sometimes it’s great to treat yourself by doing so. Typically, I buy creamers and coffee grounds to make at home and sometimes I’ll buy a bundle of bananas to last me the week. I saw that not only did it save me money, it also saved me about a half hour in the morning. Meaning a half hour more of sleep. 

While my coffee brews I walk my dog for a few minutes so she can go to the bathroom before everyone else in the house wakes up, and I start my car so it can run a bit before I leave. This is especially good since where I live the weather is unpredictable and it can frost over my windows at any time. If I catch this early enough I can defrost my windows before I go to school.

For about a month I would do something called “Fuck it Friday” where I bought coffee, snacks, whatever I wanted since I get paid every Friday. I saw that when I did this, I would just end up spending the amount I typically would in a whole week in one day, so I quickly stopped doing that and I plan on going back to making coffee at home. Goal #5: Add spare change to change dispenser in car ✖

I don’t use cash that often, which means I don’t really get change, but when I do have some lying around, it normally goes right into a bank I have in my room. When I have change in my car, I do tend to put it into the dispenser but then I’ll sometimes use it to give to the people asking for spare change or to buy a piece of candy at the store.

⊳ Languages

Goal #1: Take review notes of language material learned over the summer ✓

I did a really good job over the summer with posting a lot here, at least in my opinion, but when the school year started I posted a little less. In my first semester, I had a bit more time to post multiple times a week for multiple blogs, but when the second semester hit I began to prioritize my schooling over languages and blogs. I started to post at least once a week, but I noticed my language learning for Korean and Italian has gone down a lot because of it.

I take French in school so I practice it every day, and there are so many French posts I have drafted I’m in love. During the summer I worked more on Italian and Korean since my French was already way way way better, and I knew I would be taking it as a class during the school year.  Goal #2: Listen to podcasts in the halls instead of music ✖

I really was going to do this, but right as summer ended I lost my apple headphones and I was not going to spend thirty dollars or so to get new ones, so I just didn’t have podcasts. I have my old phone, which is a Samsung, for music so I just used that with regular headphones.

Even when I got apple headphones from my dad’s fiancee, I still didn’t really listen to podcasts. I think it’s because I don’t want to start a new one or a new audio lesson if I am just walking three minutes to my next class. When I go back to my old job, however, that’ll change. It’s part of a program with my school for getting students into the workforce, so there is a bus that provides us with transport. I have a 45-minute ride there and an over 2-hour long ride back. No excuses to not listen to a podcast or two!

Goal #3: Mondly/Duolingo and Lingodeer during breakfast/as a part of your morning routine ✖

I used to be really good at doing these daily, but then I lost motivation. Even before I would never have a long streak, but I would just try to do it as often as possible to make up for it. There was a time where I didn’t even look at these apps for over a month, but I didn’t notice much of a change in my language comprehension. But I want to get back into it since I don’t have a lot of time now to sit down and do a couple of grammar lessons.  Goal #4: Post weekly to studyblr/langblr for Italian and Korean review notes of what you studied over the summer. ✓

Again, I feel like I did a better job with this during the summer and my first semester of this year. I have several vocab lists saved just in case I don’t feel like studying but I need to do my weekly post. There are some times when I’ll be really motivated for no reason and just make like twelve vocab lists and I draft them for future use.

⊳ Health/Lifestyle

Goal # 1: Wake up at 6am ✓

Waking up early does not equal productivity, I learned that the hard way. I wake up that early for school, but during the weekends or on breaks I wake up normally at 8-9am if I don’t have to work that morning, which I rarely do since I work the night shift (typically around 1-12am I work). 

Goal # 2: Go to bed at 10pm - 11pm ✖

If I am not working I go to bed at around 11pm at the latest, but there are some nights I get home at around 11:30 so I don’t sleep until 1-2am. This is usually weekends so I don’t have an issue since in my state it’s illegal to work minors after 10pm on a school night and 11pm on a weekend. 

But now that I’m 18 and it’s summer, I can anticipate a lot of overnight shifts or longer hours! I’m not complaining, I’d rather work at night than in the daytime anyway. 

Goal # 3: 5-minute workouts or 10-minute abs in the morning and evening or after school  ✖ Hahaha, I never did this. I’m never gonna do this.   Goal # 4: Floss more ✖ Not happening either, that’s too much man. It’s not that big in my life to floss, even if my dentist tells me to do it more. I have no cavities, no gum issues, so I’m good. Goal # 5: Take your medicines daily ✓ This I’ll admit, I need to do more. Sometimes I’ll go a few days without my meds, but it’s not important that I take them daily, since they are “as needed” medicines. I should take them at least every other day, but I am getting better at that.  Goal # 6: Morning and Nightly Skin Care Routine ✓ I started off slow by only doing my routine in the morning and then occasionally going a nightly routine. My skin is really sensitive so this worked for me, putting on too much product would either make my skin too dry or too oily. If the weather is affecting my skin, I’ll add on an extra moisturizer if need be. 

Basically, I only do a night time routine when I get home from work or school late and my face feels really gross. Since I shower at night I wash my face with a gentle cleanser in the shower. That’s usually it. 

Goal # 7: Face mask while you study ✓   Doing facemasks too often also negatively affects my skin as well. I normally do one when I’m with my friends or when my skin really needs it. 

Goal # 8: Drink more water ✖

Again, I need to do this way more often than I do. I think this is mainly because the water fountains at my school are utterly disgusting. I don’t know if it’s because our school is under construction, but it’s always been gross if I remember correctly. 

⊳ School

Goal #1: SAT Fee Waiver ✓ 

THIS SAVES LIVES. At my school, if you have free or reduced lunch, you get fee waivers for all sorts of things. AP Exams, Applications, even SAT Exams. You only get two for the SAT so you need to use them wisely. Most students don’t even know that their school offers fee waivers that either cover costs completely or reduce the fee. Make sure you ask, it doesn’t do any harm!

Goal #2: October SAT  ✓

I took the October SAT and got a 1050, which is way over than what the school I wish to go to is asking for. Then I retook the exam in June since I had one more waiver left, and I got a 1080. Now the college I want to go to has a 960 SAT Average and I needed at least a 500 on the Math and English portions to be exempt from the entrance exams.

Goal #3: Research application deadlines ✓ My school was a big help with this, especially since I’m starting at community college for my first two years. I’m accepted as a student and have already selected my classes, but there were some issues with my FASFA that I still need to resolve.  Goal #4: Check scholarship board ✓ My school was also a big help with this as well, they print out all the available scholarships for that month, the criteria, AND the due dates! All I had to do was complete the applications, no fishing for free money. 

Goal #5: Study at least 15 minutes a day ✓

I was strong with this with my first semester classes, since I enjoyed the work and had daily tasks I needed to do for one of the classes. When the second semester came, things changed. Most of my classes are easy, no homework and very little classwork that I got done early. All but AP Calc. 

The way my teacher is, he doesn’t grade the problem sets he assigns. He’ll give us class participation points if we are working in class, but the problems are mainly for our own benefit. I don’t let myself not do the problems just because I won’t get a grade I’m struggling in that class now and I do all that I can to bring my grade up, but it’s not really doing much. If this is the only class I fail, then I’m glad it's AP Calculus AB and not English or something. I don’t need calc to graduate or to still obtain scholarships, it was an extra class I regret taking. 

⊳ Misc.

Goal #1: Watch more Netflix when stressed ✓ I found that I’m not much of a TV or Show person unless it’s a really good show that I get hooked on. I’d much rather destress by having time to myself and browsing social media for hours.  Goal #2: Take your time with everything ✓ This allowed me to get better with time management, taking things slow, thinking carefully, and making myself okay with the idea of rescheduling plans. Goal #3: Think before you speak/act ✓ Doing this made me do things I was glad I did and knew I would never do if I hadn’t thought it out. I became the friend who would do and say the things everyone else was afraid of.  Goal #4: Try listening to others about their day ✓ This kind of went along with the goals #2 and #3 but this also worked out for me and I feel it made me somewhat of a better person??? Yea, just listen to people when they talk to you and ask them questions. Let them know you care about them, you don’t know how much it could raise their spirits.  Goal #5: Attend Coalition meeting (every third Friday) ✖ As much as I wanted to, I could not attend meetings. I didn’t have an adult representative from my school to escort me and possibly other students, therefore I could not attend meetings. 

~brianna

[samuelfields]

Budget help: How to build a bulletproof budget

Even after 10+ years of spreading the Rich Life gospel, our founder Ramit Sethi still runs into people who need budget help. They typically:

(A) Don’t know how to build a budget.

(B) Don’t know how much they’re spending each month.

For example, this tweet:

The answers he got back were fascinating:

What do you notice about the responses?

Some common themes are fear, laziness, confusion, and even anger.

If that sounds familiar to you, that’s okay! We want to be there to help.

That’s why we’re going to break it down to the basics today on how you can build a budget.

Bonus: Want to know how to make as much money as you want and live life on your terms? Download my FREE Ultimate Guide to Making Money

Why you need budget help

When people think budgeting, images of their parents studiously going over receipts, writing down expenses in a notebook, and screaming, “HOW DID WE SPEND SO MUCH ON GAS LAST WEEK?” come to mind.

That might have worked for them … but it sure doesn’t work now.

How many times have you opened your bills, winced, then shrugged and said, “I guess I spent that much”?

How often do you feel guilty about buying something — but then do it anyway?

This is unconscious spending (aka “spreadsheet budgeting”). The main issue with it is simple: Human willpower.

Who wants to track their spending? The few people who actually try it find that their budgets completely fail after two days because tracking every penny is overwhelming.

Alternative budget building tips

Instead, we’re going to gently create a new, simple way of spending.

We’re going to help you redirect it to the places you choose, like investing, saving, and even spending more on the things you love (but less on the things you don’t).

This is going to be the foundation of your Conscious Spending Plan.

1. Know where your money is going 

You know your money matters are out of whack when it feels like you’re starring in Macklemore’s Thrift Shop music video. When there is simply too much month for your paycheck, there’s a good chance you’re not aware of what your lifestyle actually costs. 

It’s time to sit down and categorize your spending into four buckets. 

Fixed costs 

Investments 

Savings 

Guilt-free spending 

Now, you’re going to see these four categories a lot throughout our personal finance articles and that is because all your expenses are contained in these categories. When you can pinpoint what belongs where you’ll quickly start understanding where the gaps in your financial plan are. 

For instance, if you’re spending $500 per month on guilt-free spending and nothing on savings or investments, is it really guilt-free spending? Or if you have a fixed costs bill of $5,000, but your net income is $5,000, you might have a lifestyle you can’t afford. 

Bonus: Ready to ditch debt, save money, and build real wealth? Download my FREE Ultimate Guide to Personal Finance.

Investments and savings are easy enough to tally up, but it’s worth going through your fixed costs and guilt-free spending categories to see whether you’re overspending. 

Fixed costs examples 

To make sure the money goes where it needs to, you need to complete your fixed costs category first. You also need to allocate funds to this category first. 

If you’re living paycheck to paycheck, this is also the area you want to comb through to make sure you’re not paying for things you don’t actually need or want. You may find moving to a cheaper apartment or selling a car might allow you to breathe a little easier month-to-month, but the culling needs to make sense to you. What does it help to save $100 on rent every month only to spend $100 extra on traveling? 

There are four major components that you simply can’t eliminate completely, or most people anyway. They’re housing, utilities, food, and transport. Other items in this category include internet costs, education, healthcare, debt repayments, insurances, and other expenses that pop up every month without fail. 

Guilt-free spending examples 

These are your subscription services, endless cups of Starbucks, expensive shoes, dining out, you get the picture? Now, just to be clear, just because we have this as a category, doesn’t mean we’re saying you need to allocate money to it. If you’re scraping the peanut butter jar so badly you’re starting to get plastic shavings on your sandwich, you may want to clear up some fixed expenses first. 

2. Build your budgeting systems 

Have you ever caught yourself saying, “I’ll get that on payday” or “We’ll go there on payday” or my personal favorite, “Your birthday is so inconvenient. It’s smack bang in the middle of the month, who has money at that time?”. I’ll tell you who has money. People who know where their money goes. 

That may seem a little, eh, harsh, but it’s not meant to be. You can be that person who doesn’t care whether someone has an event on the 1st or any other day for that matter. The only difference payday makes, is that it’s the day a new salary payment lands in your account. If that money isn’t carefully allocated into different categories, you’ll eat into money meant for savings and investments. 

So how do you get off this slippery slope? 

Allocate sub-accounts in your savings 

While we’re big on investments, we also know the value of saving for short term goals. Chucking everything into one account with no clear direction is like throwing a mixed laundry load into the washing machine on a hot cycle. You just never know when your whites are going to turn pink. 

Your savings account should have sub-categories that allow you to save up for your various needs. For instance: 

Emergency fund: Ideally, you’ll have at least 3-6 months worth of fixed cost expenses saved in an emergency fund. But if you’re really ambitious, go for one year. The pandemic taught us many things, one of which is that a solid emergency fund can ease potential hardship. 

Gifting and birthdays: If your budget is tight, it’s important that you budget birthdays and gifting ahead of time.  

Car service and maintenance: If you don’t have a motor plan, you need to put money away for services, maintenance matters such as tires, and car-related things that might pop up. You don’t want to dip into emergency savings for predictable expenses.

Big deposits: Vacations, a wedding, downpayment on property or car, this is the category where that goes.  

If you’re with a bank worth their weight in, uhm gold, they’ll allow you to open these sub-accounts at no extra charge and still offer to pay some interest on it. It might take you half an hour to set this up, but guess what, when it’s done, you don’t have to think about it again until you need to use it. Here are the savings accounts that we recommend – we are not affiliated with them in any way, but we use them and like them.

Automate your finances 

We’re really, really big on this. Automating your personal finances is a game-changer. 

It takes the fear of the unknown out of your finances 

You don’t have to spend a ton of time on your finances (increasing the chances that you’ll actually stick to a system)

You’re able to identify holes or money traps in your budget 

It helps you build good financial habits 

You can automate your finances to such an extent that you simply have to give your bank accounts a glance over once in a while to make sure things are still running as they should. 

Every single thing that needs to be paid, can be automated. Let’s have a look: 

Credit cards: Set up your credit card to have the balance auto-paid every month from your checking account. Settling the balance in full every month is an important step in money management and will do wonders for your budget. Not only will you save on interest, but it also boosts your credit score if you manage to keep your usage to no more than 30%. Automatic payments also ensure that the card is paid on time, every time. The importance of this extends beyond your relationship with the credit card, it can also influence future financial products such as buying a house. 

Investments: Instruct your company or investment firm to automatically withdraw a certain amount from your bank or every paycheck for your retirement accounts. Your goal is to automate your finances to such an extent that you’ve maxed out your allowable contributions to these accounts before moving on to other investment types such as index funds. 

Savings: Predetermining your savings and setting up an auto-transfer to your savings pockets will free up time and will make you less inclined to spend the money before you save it. There will always be something to save for, even if you’ve reached the limit to your emergency savings. Think home upgrades, new tech, a wardrobe revamp. 

Utilities: You can set up direct debit with most utility companies online. You know your utilities are up to date, you simply need to check the statement to make sure the amounts don’t differ. Other than that, there’s nothing else for you to do. 

Bonus: Learn more about automating your finances with our FREE Ultimate Guide to Personal Finance. It’ll show you step-by-step how to set up your accounts.

3. Cut mercilessly on things you don’t love or need

Don’t like watching TV? Cancel the Netflix subscription. What about the gym subscription? Is it possible for you to get the same results at home? 

Now move on to things that are a little more serious. Let’s talk about your property, for instance. There is a truckload of other expenses that you need to consider when buying a property. You’re not just going to have a long-term mortgage. 

Before you even own the house, you need to have the downpayment, closing costs, and reserves on hand. While the downpayment and reserves are in your best interest, it may take time to build it up. 

Ongoing costs to consider include HOA costs, insurances, property taxes, maintenance, and utilities. Now, ask yourself whether you’re still okay with it, or whether you might just be better off renting for a couple of years until you’re 100% sure you want to settle in a specific location. 

Now, this might be an unpopular opinion, but owning a house is not the be-all and end-all our parents made it out to be. It’s damn expensive and you need to be financially secure enough to take it on. It’s not for everyone, especially those who consider themselves modern nomads. 

You may not want to cut out every day items that you love, like lattes and dinners out with friends, but if you can make cuts on major expenses like housing, that’s a huge win.

4. Increase spending on the stuff that matters

Don’t let anyone tell you you’re wasting money when you’re spending it on the things that matter to you. 

When you’ve done your bit and allocated money to all the other categories and you have money leftover, it’s your prerogative to spend it how you want. So what if you like $1,000 shoes? If you can afford it and it matters to you, then it belongs in your guilt-free spending category. 

When you’re doing this right and you’ve allocated what you need to in the other categories, imagine getting the figure up to 30% or even 40% of your take-home pay? 

5. Boost your income 

Money isn’t everything, but if you like to live a life of experiences, being broke sucks. So how do you strike a balance between your top-heavy budget and some fun money? If you’ve already gone through the culling discussed in step 3, don’t reduce your savings or investments. Instead, look for ways to boost your income. Knowing how to make a budget is knowing how to make your money work. 

Your salary might have potential 

When was the last time you had a raise? If it was last year after a performance review and didn’t even compete with inflation, it’s time to take out your calculator and start doing the math. A raise today could lead to more retirement savings, higher future salaries, a bigger dent in your debt, and more fun money. 

It’s worth the discussion and if you follow our founder Ramit Sethi’s negotiation steps, you might just be looking at a dream salary. 

If you can’t increase your salary at your current job, why not put your feelers out and use those very same steps on your interviewer? Who knows, instead of a tiny increase, you might be looking at a salary hop of a couple of thousand dollars per year. It’s worth a look. 

Negotiate your financial and non-financial products 

You can reduce that fixed costs spending category in a matter of minutes simply by picking up the phone and reminding your service providers what a good customer you are.

Let’s start with banks. There is a smorgasbord of products they offer and each one is either designed to keep their liquidity high (savings accounts) or earn them the big dollars (by offering credit with interest). 

You can either spend time negotiating half a percentage on your small savings account, or you can tackle the big-ticket items. For starters, if your mortgage is at a higher interest rate than it needs to be, check out the pros and cons of refinancing. Just make sure that if you go down this route, that the lender doesn’t hit you with a nasty processing fee. 

Checking accounts and credit cards are two other products that can do with a price check. If you’re paying monthly or annual fees, it’s time to call them up and bring that figure down. 

But there are other areas you can save.

Internet service providers that onboard new customers at a lower rate. Get them to lower yours too in order to keep your business. 

Gym membership fees. Depending on the club and the length of time you’ve been with them, ask them to see if there’s a way to cut down on the fees. 

Start a side hustle 

A side hustle can be a great way to boost your income, especially if you start out with as few overheads as possible, for instance, an online business. It might take you a couple of months to start making money, but those months are going to pass anyway so why not do something anyway? 

Now, figuring out which side hustle to start is easier than you think. If you know how to play an online game or order something online, you already have enough internet savvy to start your own thing. Yep. 

Side hustles that require very little startup cash, if any, include freelance writing, stock photography (you probably have a better camera on your phone than the photographer next door with his 90’s lenses), or a dropshipping store. 

Budgeting FAQs

How should a beginner budget? 

It all starts with the basics. Know exactly how much is coming in and how much is going out. You may have to write it down until it becomes second nature. Then, you follow the steps above which include financial automation and conscious spending. 

What are the 50/20/30 and 70/20/10 budget rules? 

The 50/20/30 rule is a budget guideline that states 50% of your after-tax income should go towards commitments and obligatory expenses. Then 20% on savings and debt repayments and the remaining 30% on everything else. 

The 70/20/10 states that 70% should go towards expenses, 20% on savings, and 10% on giving. 

While these are handy when you’re still trying to figure things out, it’s important that you find a ratio that works for you. The goal is simple, decrease your debt, increase your savings and investments, and allow yourself some guilt-free spending. 

What is the envelope system? 

The idea is that you have an envelope for each payment category. So you’d have one for your housing, one for utilities, another for food, and so on. Great envelope systems include investments and savings too. 

However, technology has shown us that everything’s easier when you automate it. Apps such as Fudget and Monefy are great for those who wish to use the envelope system. This allows you to stay on top of your obligations, have a proactive approach to budgeting, and not overspend. 

Summary

A budget is not a spreadsheet. It’s a proactive approach to your finances and allows you the financial freedom to meet your financial obligations and commitments. It also allows your money to work for you and buy you great life experiences and the rich life you desire, all while building up the financial foundation for future you.

Get the ultimate guide to making money

The best way to ensure flexibility in your budget is to earn more money.

And there are a few different ways you can do this:

Negotiate a raise. If you have a job, this is a no-brainer … but it takes a lot of planning and study.

Tap into hidden income. With a few 5-minute phone calls you can save yourself THOUSANDS every year. Find out how with this free PDF.

Do freelance work. Starting a side hustle is one of my favorite ways to make money. Using the skills you already have, you can start fuel-injecting your income. Here’s how to find the best side hustle ideas today.

If you apply the right systems you can find the money to make expensive purchases AND earn money at the same time.

That’s why we want to offer you something:

The Ultimate Guide to Making Money

In it, Ramit has included his best strategies to:

Create multiple income streams so you always have a consistent source of revenue.

Start your own business and escape the 9-to-5 for good.

Increase your income by thousands of dollars a year through side hustles like freelancing.

Download a FREE copy of the Ultimate Guide today by entering your name and email below — and start earning more money today.

Yes, send me the Ultimate Guide to Making Money

Please enable JavaScript in your browser to complete this form.

Name *

Email *

Give me instant access!

100% privacy. No games, no B.S., no spam. When you sign up, we’ll keep you posted

Budget help: How to build a bulletproof budget is a post from: I Will Teach You To Be Rich.

from Finance https://www.iwillteachyoutoberich.com/blog/budget-help/ via http://www.rssmix.com/

[kennethherrerablog]

Budget help: How to build a bulletproof budget

Even after 10+ years of spreading the Rich Life gospel, our founder Ramit Sethi still runs into people who need budget help. They typically:

(A) Don’t know how to build a budget.

(B) Don’t know how much they’re spending each month.

For example, this tweet:

The answers he got back were fascinating:

What do you notice about the responses?

Some common themes are fear, laziness, confusion, and even anger.

If that sounds familiar to you, that’s okay! We want to be there to help.

That’s why we’re going to break it down to the basics today on how you can build a budget.

Bonus: Want to know how to make as much money as you want and live life on your terms? Download my FREE Ultimate Guide to Making Money

Why you need budget help

When people think budgeting, images of their parents studiously going over receipts, writing down expenses in a notebook, and screaming, “HOW DID WE SPEND SO MUCH ON GAS LAST WEEK?” come to mind.

That might have worked for them … but it sure doesn’t work now.

How many times have you opened your bills, winced, then shrugged and said, “I guess I spent that much”?

How often do you feel guilty about buying something — but then do it anyway?

This is unconscious spending (aka “spreadsheet budgeting”). The main issue with it is simple: Human willpower.

Who wants to track their spending? The few people who actually try it find that their budgets completely fail after two days because tracking every penny is overwhelming.

Alternative budget building tips

Instead, we’re going to gently create a new, simple way of spending.

We’re going to help you redirect it to the places you choose, like investing, saving, and even spending more on the things you love (but less on the things you don’t).

This is going to be the foundation of your Conscious Spending Plan.

1. Know where your money is going 

You know your money matters are out of whack when it feels like you’re starring in Macklemore’s Thrift Shop music video. When there is simply too much month for your paycheck, there’s a good chance you’re not aware of what your lifestyle actually costs. 

It’s time to sit down and categorize your spending into four buckets. 

Fixed costs 

Investments 

Savings 

Guilt-free spending 

Now, you’re going to see these four categories a lot throughout our personal finance articles and that is because all your expenses are contained in these categories. When you can pinpoint what belongs where you’ll quickly start understanding where the gaps in your financial plan are. 

For instance, if you’re spending $500 per month on guilt-free spending and nothing on savings or investments, is it really guilt-free spending? Or if you have a fixed costs bill of $5,000, but your net income is $5,000, you might have a lifestyle you can’t afford. 

Bonus: Ready to ditch debt, save money, and build real wealth? Download my FREE Ultimate Guide to Personal Finance.

Investments and savings are easy enough to tally up, but it’s worth going through your fixed costs and guilt-free spending categories to see whether you’re overspending. 

Fixed costs examples 

To make sure the money goes where it needs to, you need to complete your fixed costs category first. You also need to allocate funds to this category first. 

If you’re living paycheck to paycheck, this is also the area you want to comb through to make sure you’re not paying for things you don’t actually need or want. You may find moving to a cheaper apartment or selling a car might allow you to breathe a little easier month-to-month, but the culling needs to make sense to you. What does it help to save $100 on rent every month only to spend $100 extra on traveling? 

There are four major components that you simply can’t eliminate completely, or most people anyway. They’re housing, utilities, food, and transport. Other items in this category include internet costs, education, healthcare, debt repayments, insurances, and other expenses that pop up every month without fail. 

Guilt-free spending examples 

These are your subscription services, endless cups of Starbucks, expensive shoes, dining out, you get the picture? Now, just to be clear, just because we have this as a category, doesn’t mean we’re saying you need to allocate money to it. If you’re scraping the peanut butter jar so badly you’re starting to get plastic shavings on your sandwich, you may want to clear up some fixed expenses first. 

2. Build your budgeting systems 

Have you ever caught yourself saying, “I’ll get that on payday” or “We’ll go there on payday” or my personal favorite, “Your birthday is so inconvenient. It’s smack bang in the middle of the month, who has money at that time?”. I’ll tell you who has money. People who know where their money goes. 

That may seem a little, eh, harsh, but it’s not meant to be. You can be that person who doesn’t care whether someone has an event on the 1st or any other day for that matter. The only difference payday makes, is that it’s the day a new salary payment lands in your account. If that money isn’t carefully allocated into different categories, you’ll eat into money meant for savings and investments. 

So how do you get off this slippery slope? 

Allocate sub-accounts in your savings 

While we’re big on investments, we also know the value of saving for short term goals. Chucking everything into one account with no clear direction is like throwing a mixed laundry load into the washing machine on a hot cycle. You just never know when your whites are going to turn pink. 

Your savings account should have sub-categories that allow you to save up for your various needs. For instance: 

Emergency fund: Ideally, you’ll have at least 3-6 months worth of fixed cost expenses saved in an emergency fund. But if you’re really ambitious, go for one year. The pandemic taught us many things, one of which is that a solid emergency fund can ease potential hardship. 

Gifting and birthdays: If your budget is tight, it’s important that you budget birthdays and gifting ahead of time.  

Car service and maintenance: If you don’t have a motor plan, you need to put money away for services, maintenance matters such as tires, and car-related things that might pop up. You don’t want to dip into emergency savings for predictable expenses.

Big deposits: Vacations, a wedding, downpayment on property or car, this is the category where that goes.  

If you’re with a bank worth their weight in, uhm gold, they’ll allow you to open these sub-accounts at no extra charge and still offer to pay some interest on it. It might take you half an hour to set this up, but guess what, when it’s done, you don’t have to think about it again until you need to use it. Here are the savings accounts that we recommend – we are not affiliated with them in any way, but we use them and like them.

Automate your finances 

We’re really, really big on this. Automating your personal finances is a game-changer. 

It takes the fear of the unknown out of your finances 

You don’t have to spend a ton of time on your finances (increasing the chances that you’ll actually stick to a system)

You’re able to identify holes or money traps in your budget 

It helps you build good financial habits 

You can automate your finances to such an extent that you simply have to give your bank accounts a glance over once in a while to make sure things are still running as they should. 

Every single thing that needs to be paid, can be automated. Let’s have a look: 

Credit cards: Set up your credit card to have the balance auto-paid every month from your checking account. Settling the balance in full every month is an important step in money management and will do wonders for your budget. Not only will you save on interest, but it also boosts your credit score if you manage to keep your usage to no more than 30%. Automatic payments also ensure that the card is paid on time, every time. The importance of this extends beyond your relationship with the credit card, it can also influence future financial products such as buying a house. 

Investments: Instruct your company or investment firm to automatically withdraw a certain amount from your bank or every paycheck for your retirement accounts. Your goal is to automate your finances to such an extent that you’ve maxed out your allowable contributions to these accounts before moving on to other investment types such as index funds. 

Savings: Predetermining your savings and setting up an auto-transfer to your savings pockets will free up time and will make you less inclined to spend the money before you save it. There will always be something to save for, even if you’ve reached the limit to your emergency savings. Think home upgrades, new tech, a wardrobe revamp. 

Utilities: You can set up direct debit with most utility companies online. You know your utilities are up to date, you simply need to check the statement to make sure the amounts don’t differ. Other than that, there’s nothing else for you to do. 

Bonus: Learn more about automating your finances with our FREE Ultimate Guide to Personal Finance. It’ll show you step-by-step how to set up your accounts.

3. Cut mercilessly on things you don’t love or need

Don’t like watching TV? Cancel the Netflix subscription. What about the gym subscription? Is it possible for you to get the same results at home? 

Now move on to things that are a little more serious. Let’s talk about your property, for instance. There is a truckload of other expenses that you need to consider when buying a property. You’re not just going to have a long-term mortgage. 

Before you even own the house, you need to have the downpayment, closing costs, and reserves on hand. While the downpayment and reserves are in your best interest, it may take time to build it up. 

Ongoing costs to consider include HOA costs, insurances, property taxes, maintenance, and utilities. Now, ask yourself whether you’re still okay with it, or whether you might just be better off renting for a couple of years until you’re 100% sure you want to settle in a specific location. 

Now, this might be an unpopular opinion, but owning a house is not the be-all and end-all our parents made it out to be. It’s damn expensive and you need to be financially secure enough to take it on. It’s not for everyone, especially those who consider themselves modern nomads. 

You may not want to cut out every day items that you love, like lattes and dinners out with friends, but if you can make cuts on major expenses like housing, that’s a huge win.

4. Increase spending on the stuff that matters

Don’t let anyone tell you you’re wasting money when you’re spending it on the things that matter to you. 

When you’ve done your bit and allocated money to all the other categories and you have money leftover, it’s your prerogative to spend it how you want. So what if you like $1,000 shoes? If you can afford it and it matters to you, then it belongs in your guilt-free spending category. 

When you’re doing this right and you’ve allocated what you need to in the other categories, imagine getting the figure up to 30% or even 40% of your take-home pay? 

5. Boost your income 

Money isn’t everything, but if you like to live a life of experiences, being broke sucks. So how do you strike a balance between your top-heavy budget and some fun money? If you’ve already gone through the culling discussed in step 3, don’t reduce your savings or investments. Instead, look for ways to boost your income. Knowing how to make a budget is knowing how to make your money work. 

Your salary might have potential 

When was the last time you had a raise? If it was last year after a performance review and didn’t even compete with inflation, it’s time to take out your calculator and start doing the math. A raise today could lead to more retirement savings, higher future salaries, a bigger dent in your debt, and more fun money. 

It’s worth the discussion and if you follow our founder Ramit Sethi’s negotiation steps, you might just be looking at a dream salary. 

If you can’t increase your salary at your current job, why not put your feelers out and use those very same steps on your interviewer? Who knows, instead of a tiny increase, you might be looking at a salary hop of a couple of thousand dollars per year. It’s worth a look. 

Negotiate your financial and non-financial products 

You can reduce that fixed costs spending category in a matter of minutes simply by picking up the phone and reminding your service providers what a good customer you are.

Let’s start with banks. There is a smorgasbord of products they offer and each one is either designed to keep their liquidity high (savings accounts) or earn them the big dollars (by offering credit with interest). 

You can either spend time negotiating half a percentage on your small savings account, or you can tackle the big-ticket items. For starters, if your mortgage is at a higher interest rate than it needs to be, check out the pros and cons of refinancing. Just make sure that if you go down this route, that the lender doesn’t hit you with a nasty processing fee. 

Checking accounts and credit cards are two other products that can do with a price check. If you’re paying monthly or annual fees, it’s time to call them up and bring that figure down. 

But there are other areas you can save.

Internet service providers that onboard new customers at a lower rate. Get them to lower yours too in order to keep your business. 

Gym membership fees. Depending on the club and the length of time you’ve been with them, ask them to see if there’s a way to cut down on the fees. 

Start a side hustle 

A side hustle can be a great way to boost your income, especially if you start out with as few overheads as possible, for instance, an online business. It might take you a couple of months to start making money, but those months are going to pass anyway so why not do something anyway? 

Now, figuring out which side hustle to start is easier than you think. If you know how to play an online game or order something online, you already have enough internet savvy to start your own thing. Yep. 

Side hustles that require very little startup cash, if any, include freelance writing, stock photography (you probably have a better camera on your phone than the photographer next door with his 90’s lenses), or a dropshipping store. 

Budgeting FAQs

How should a beginner budget? 

It all starts with the basics. Know exactly how much is coming in and how much is going out. You may have to write it down until it becomes second nature. Then, you follow the steps above which include financial automation and conscious spending. 

What are the 50/20/30 and 70/20/10 budget rules? 

The 50/20/30 rule is a budget guideline that states 50% of your after-tax income should go towards commitments and obligatory expenses. Then 20% on savings and debt repayments and the remaining 30% on everything else. 

The 70/20/10 states that 70% should go towards expenses, 20% on savings, and 10% on giving. 

While these are handy when you’re still trying to figure things out, it’s important that you find a ratio that works for you. The goal is simple, decrease your debt, increase your savings and investments, and allow yourself some guilt-free spending. 

What is the envelope system? 

The idea is that you have an envelope for each payment category. So you’d have one for your housing, one for utilities, another for food, and so on. Great envelope systems include investments and savings too. 

However, technology has shown us that everything’s easier when you automate it. Apps such as Fudget and Monefy are great for those who wish to use the envelope system. This allows you to stay on top of your obligations, have a proactive approach to budgeting, and not overspend. 

Summary

A budget is not a spreadsheet. It’s a proactive approach to your finances and allows you the financial freedom to meet your financial obligations and commitments. It also allows your money to work for you and buy you great life experiences and the rich life you desire, all while building up the financial foundation for future you.

Get the ultimate guide to making money

The best way to ensure flexibility in your budget is to earn more money.

And there are a few different ways you can do this:

Negotiate a raise. If you have a job, this is a no-brainer … but it takes a lot of planning and study.

Tap into hidden income. With a few 5-minute phone calls you can save yourself THOUSANDS every year. Find out how with this free PDF.

Do freelance work. Starting a side hustle is one of my favorite ways to make money. Using the skills you already have, you can start fuel-injecting your income. Here’s how to find the best side hustle ideas today.

If you apply the right systems you can find the money to make expensive purchases AND earn money at the same time.

That’s why we want to offer you something:

The Ultimate Guide to Making Money

In it, Ramit has included his best strategies to:

Create multiple income streams so you always have a consistent source of revenue.

Start your own business and escape the 9-to-5 for good.

Increase your income by thousands of dollars a year through side hustles like freelancing.

Download a FREE copy of the Ultimate Guide today by entering your name and email below — and start earning more money today.

Yes, send me the Ultimate Guide to Making Money

Please enable JavaScript in your browser to complete this form.

Name *

Email *

Give me instant access!

100% privacy. No games, no B.S., no spam. When you sign up, we’ll keep you posted

Budget help: How to build a bulletproof budget is a post from: I Will Teach You To Be Rich.

Budget help: How to build a bulletproof budget published first on https://justinbetreviews.tumblr.com/

[andrewdburton]

Budget help: How to build a bulletproof budget

Even after 10+ years of spreading the Rich Life gospel, our founder Ramit Sethi still runs into people who need budget help. They typically:

(A) Don’t know how to build a budget.

(B) Don’t know how much they’re spending each month.

For example, this tweet:

The answers he got back were fascinating:

What do you notice about the responses?

Some common themes are fear, laziness, confusion, and even anger.

If that sounds familiar to you, that’s okay! We want to be there to help.

That’s why we’re going to break it down to the basics today on how you can build a budget.

Bonus: Want to know how to make as much money as you want and live life on your terms? Download my FREE Ultimate Guide to Making Money

Why you need budget help

When people think budgeting, images of their parents studiously going over receipts, writing down expenses in a notebook, and screaming, “HOW DID WE SPEND SO MUCH ON GAS LAST WEEK?” come to mind.

That might have worked for them … but it sure doesn’t work now.

How many times have you opened your bills, winced, then shrugged and said, “I guess I spent that much”?

How often do you feel guilty about buying something — but then do it anyway?

This is unconscious spending (aka “spreadsheet budgeting”). The main issue with it is simple: Human willpower.

Who wants to track their spending? The few people who actually try it find that their budgets completely fail after two days because tracking every penny is overwhelming.

Alternative budget building tips

Instead, we’re going to gently create a new, simple way of spending.

We’re going to help you redirect it to the places you choose, like investing, saving, and even spending more on the things you love (but less on the things you don’t).

This is going to be the foundation of your Conscious Spending Plan.

1. Know where your money is going 

You know your money matters are out of whack when it feels like you’re starring in Macklemore’s Thrift Shop music video. When there is simply too much month for your paycheck, there’s a good chance you’re not aware of what your lifestyle actually costs. 

It’s time to sit down and categorize your spending into four buckets. 

Fixed costs 

Investments 

Savings 

Guilt-free spending 

Now, you’re going to see these four categories a lot throughout our personal finance articles and that is because all your expenses are contained in these categories. When you can pinpoint what belongs where you’ll quickly start understanding where the gaps in your financial plan are. 

For instance, if you’re spending $500 per month on guilt-free spending and nothing on savings or investments, is it really guilt-free spending? Or if you have a fixed costs bill of $5,000, but your net income is $5,000, you might have a lifestyle you can’t afford. 

Bonus: Ready to ditch debt, save money, and build real wealth? Download my FREE Ultimate Guide to Personal Finance.

Investments and savings are easy enough to tally up, but it’s worth going through your fixed costs and guilt-free spending categories to see whether you’re overspending. 

Fixed costs examples 

To make sure the money goes where it needs to, you need to complete your fixed costs category first. You also need to allocate funds to this category first. 

If you’re living paycheck to paycheck, this is also the area you want to comb through to make sure you’re not paying for things you don’t actually need or want. You may find moving to a cheaper apartment or selling a car might allow you to breathe a little easier month-to-month, but the culling needs to make sense to you. What does it help to save $100 on rent every month only to spend $100 extra on traveling? 

There are four major components that you simply can’t eliminate completely, or most people anyway. They’re housing, utilities, food, and transport. Other items in this category include internet costs, education, healthcare, debt repayments, insurances, and other expenses that pop up every month without fail. 

Guilt-free spending examples 

These are your subscription services, endless cups of Starbucks, expensive shoes, dining out, you get the picture? Now, just to be clear, just because we have this as a category, doesn’t mean we’re saying you need to allocate money to it. If you’re scraping the peanut butter jar so badly you’re starting to get plastic shavings on your sandwich, you may want to clear up some fixed expenses first. 

2. Build your budgeting systems 

Have you ever caught yourself saying, “I’ll get that on payday” or “We’ll go there on payday” or my personal favorite, “Your birthday is so inconvenient. It’s smack bang in the middle of the month, who has money at that time?”. I’ll tell you who has money. People who know where their money goes. 

That may seem a little, eh, harsh, but it’s not meant to be. You can be that person who doesn’t care whether someone has an event on the 1st or any other day for that matter. The only difference payday makes, is that it’s the day a new salary payment lands in your account. If that money isn’t carefully allocated into different categories, you’ll eat into money meant for savings and investments. 

So how do you get off this slippery slope? 

Allocate sub-accounts in your savings 

While we’re big on investments, we also know the value of saving for short term goals. Chucking everything into one account with no clear direction is like throwing a mixed laundry load into the washing machine on a hot cycle. You just never know when your whites are going to turn pink. 

Your savings account should have sub-categories that allow you to save up for your various needs. For instance: 

Emergency fund: Ideally, you’ll have at least 3-6 months worth of fixed cost expenses saved in an emergency fund. But if you’re really ambitious, go for one year. The pandemic taught us many things, one of which is that a solid emergency fund can ease potential hardship. 

Gifting and birthdays: If your budget is tight, it’s important that you budget birthdays and gifting ahead of time.  

Car service and maintenance: If you don’t have a motor plan, you need to put money away for services, maintenance matters such as tires, and car-related things that might pop up. You don’t want to dip into emergency savings for predictable expenses.

Big deposits: Vacations, a wedding, downpayment on property or car, this is the category where that goes.  

If you’re with a bank worth their weight in, uhm gold, they’ll allow you to open these sub-accounts at no extra charge and still offer to pay some interest on it. It might take you half an hour to set this up, but guess what, when it’s done, you don’t have to think about it again until you need to use it. Here are the savings accounts that we recommend – we are not affiliated with them in any way, but we use them and like them.

Automate your finances 

We’re really, really big on this. Automating your personal finances is a game-changer. 

It takes the fear of the unknown out of your finances 

You don’t have to spend a ton of time on your finances (increasing the chances that you’ll actually stick to a system)

You’re able to identify holes or money traps in your budget 

It helps you build good financial habits 

You can automate your finances to such an extent that you simply have to give your bank accounts a glance over once in a while to make sure things are still running as they should. 

Every single thing that needs to be paid, can be automated. Let’s have a look: 

Credit cards: Set up your credit card to have the balance auto-paid every month from your checking account. Settling the balance in full every month is an important step in money management and will do wonders for your budget. Not only will you save on interest, but it also boosts your credit score if you manage to keep your usage to no more than 30%. Automatic payments also ensure that the card is paid on time, every time. The importance of this extends beyond your relationship with the credit card, it can also influence future financial products such as buying a house. 

Investments: Instruct your company or investment firm to automatically withdraw a certain amount from your bank or every paycheck for your retirement accounts. Your goal is to automate your finances to such an extent that you’ve maxed out your allowable contributions to these accounts before moving on to other investment types such as index funds. 

Savings: Predetermining your savings and setting up an auto-transfer to your savings pockets will free up time and will make you less inclined to spend the money before you save it. There will always be something to save for, even if you’ve reached the limit to your emergency savings. Think home upgrades, new tech, a wardrobe revamp. 

Utilities: You can set up direct debit with most utility companies online. You know your utilities are up to date, you simply need to check the statement to make sure the amounts don’t differ. Other than that, there’s nothing else for you to do. 

Bonus: Learn more about automating your finances with our FREE Ultimate Guide to Personal Finance. It’ll show you step-by-step how to set up your accounts.

3. Cut mercilessly on things you don’t love or need

Don’t like watching TV? Cancel the Netflix subscription. What about the gym subscription? Is it possible for you to get the same results at home? 

Now move on to things that are a little more serious. Let’s talk about your property, for instance. There is a truckload of other expenses that you need to consider when buying a property. You’re not just going to have a long-term mortgage. 

Before you even own the house, you need to have the downpayment, closing costs, and reserves on hand. While the downpayment and reserves are in your best interest, it may take time to build it up. 

Ongoing costs to consider include HOA costs, insurances, property taxes, maintenance, and utilities. Now, ask yourself whether you’re still okay with it, or whether you might just be better off renting for a couple of years until you’re 100% sure you want to settle in a specific location. 

Now, this might be an unpopular opinion, but owning a house is not the be-all and end-all our parents made it out to be. It’s damn expensive and you need to be financially secure enough to take it on. It’s not for everyone, especially those who consider themselves modern nomads. 

You may not want to cut out every day items that you love, like lattes and dinners out with friends, but if you can make cuts on major expenses like housing, that’s a huge win.

4. Increase spending on the stuff that matters

Don’t let anyone tell you you’re wasting money when you’re spending it on the things that matter to you. 

When you’ve done your bit and allocated money to all the other categories and you have money leftover, it’s your prerogative to spend it how you want. So what if you like $1,000 shoes? If you can afford it and it matters to you, then it belongs in your guilt-free spending category. 

When you’re doing this right and you’ve allocated what you need to in the other categories, imagine getting the figure up to 30% or even 40% of your take-home pay? 

5. Boost your income 

Money isn’t everything, but if you like to live a life of experiences, being broke sucks. So how do you strike a balance between your top-heavy budget and some fun money? If you’ve already gone through the culling discussed in step 3, don’t reduce your savings or investments. Instead, look for ways to boost your income. Knowing how to make a budget is knowing how to make your money work. 

Your salary might have potential 

When was the last time you had a raise? If it was last year after a performance review and didn’t even compete with inflation, it’s time to take out your calculator and start doing the math. A raise today could lead to more retirement savings, higher future salaries, a bigger dent in your debt, and more fun money. 

It’s worth the discussion and if you follow our founder Ramit Sethi’s negotiation steps, you might just be looking at a dream salary. 

If you can’t increase your salary at your current job, why not put your feelers out and use those very same steps on your interviewer? Who knows, instead of a tiny increase, you might be looking at a salary hop of a couple of thousand dollars per year. It’s worth a look. 

Negotiate your financial and non-financial products 

You can reduce that fixed costs spending category in a matter of minutes simply by picking up the phone and reminding your service providers what a good customer you are.

Let’s start with banks. There is a smorgasbord of products they offer and each one is either designed to keep their liquidity high (savings accounts) or earn them the big dollars (by offering credit with interest). 

You can either spend time negotiating half a percentage on your small savings account, or you can tackle the big-ticket items. For starters, if your mortgage is at a higher interest rate than it needs to be, check out the pros and cons of refinancing. Just make sure that if you go down this route, that the lender doesn’t hit you with a nasty processing fee. 

Checking accounts and credit cards are two other products that can do with a price check. If you’re paying monthly or annual fees, it’s time to call them up and bring that figure down. 

But there are other areas you can save.

Internet service providers that onboard new customers at a lower rate. Get them to lower yours too in order to keep your business. 

Gym membership fees. Depending on the club and the length of time you’ve been with them, ask them to see if there’s a way to cut down on the fees. 

Start a side hustle 

A side hustle can be a great way to boost your income, especially if you start out with as few overheads as possible, for instance, an online business. It might take you a couple of months to start making money, but those months are going to pass anyway so why not do something anyway? 

Now, figuring out which side hustle to start is easier than you think. If you know how to play an online game or order something online, you already have enough internet savvy to start your own thing. Yep. 

Side hustles that require very little startup cash, if any, include freelance writing, stock photography (you probably have a better camera on your phone than the photographer next door with his 90’s lenses), or a dropshipping store. 

Budgeting FAQs

How should a beginner budget? 

It all starts with the basics. Know exactly how much is coming in and how much is going out. You may have to write it down until it becomes second nature. Then, you follow the steps above which include financial automation and conscious spending. 

What are the 50/20/30 and 70/20/10 budget rules? 

The 50/20/30 rule is a budget guideline that states 50% of your after-tax income should go towards commitments and obligatory expenses. Then 20% on savings and debt repayments and the remaining 30% on everything else. 

The 70/20/10 states that 70% should go towards expenses, 20% on savings, and 10% on giving. 

While these are handy when you’re still trying to figure things out, it’s important that you find a ratio that works for you. The goal is simple, decrease your debt, increase your savings and investments, and allow yourself some guilt-free spending. 

What is the envelope system? 

The idea is that you have an envelope for each payment category. So you’d have one for your housing, one for utilities, another for food, and so on. Great envelope systems include investments and savings too. 

However, technology has shown us that everything’s easier when you automate it. Apps such as Fudget and Monefy are great for those who wish to use the envelope system. This allows you to stay on top of your obligations, have a proactive approach to budgeting, and not overspend. 

Summary

A budget is not a spreadsheet. It’s a proactive approach to your finances and allows you the financial freedom to meet your financial obligations and commitments. It also allows your money to work for you and buy you great life experiences and the rich life you desire, all while building up the financial foundation for future you.

Get the ultimate guide to making money

The best way to ensure flexibility in your budget is to earn more money.

And there are a few different ways you can do this:

Negotiate a raise. If you have a job, this is a no-brainer … but it takes a lot of planning and study.

Tap into hidden income. With a few 5-minute phone calls you can save yourself THOUSANDS every year. Find out how with this free PDF.

Do freelance work. Starting a side hustle is one of my favorite ways to make money. Using the skills you already have, you can start fuel-injecting your income. Here’s how to find the best side hustle ideas today.

If you apply the right systems you can find the money to make expensive purchases AND earn money at the same time.

That’s why we want to offer you something:

The Ultimate Guide to Making Money

In it, Ramit has included his best strategies to:

Create multiple income streams so you always have a consistent source of revenue.

Start your own business and escape the 9-to-5 for good.

Increase your income by thousands of dollars a year through side hustles like freelancing.

Download a FREE copy of the Ultimate Guide today by entering your name and email below — and start earning more money today.

Yes, send me the Ultimate Guide to Making Money

Please enable JavaScript in your browser to complete this form.

Name *

Email *

Give me instant access!

100% privacy. No games, no B.S., no spam. When you sign up, we’ll keep you posted

Budget help: How to build a bulletproof budget is a post from: I Will Teach You To Be Rich.

from Finance https://www.iwillteachyoutoberich.com/blog/budget-help/ via http://www.rssmix.com/

[paulckrueger]

Budget help: How to build a bulletproof budget

Even after 10+ years of spreading the Rich Life gospel, our founder Ramit Sethi still runs into people who need budget help. They typically:

(A) Don’t know how to build a budget.

(B) Don’t know how much they’re spending each month.

For example, this tweet:

The answers he got back were fascinating:

What do you notice about the responses?

Some common themes are fear, laziness, confusion, and even anger.

If that sounds familiar to you, that’s okay! We want to be there to help.

That’s why we’re going to break it down to the basics today on how you can build a budget.

Bonus: Want to know how to make as much money as you want and live life on your terms? Download my FREE Ultimate Guide to Making Money

Why you need budget help

When people think budgeting, images of their parents studiously going over receipts, writing down expenses in a notebook, and screaming, “HOW DID WE SPEND SO MUCH ON GAS LAST WEEK?” come to mind.

That might have worked for them … but it sure doesn’t work now.

How many times have you opened your bills, winced, then shrugged and said, “I guess I spent that much”?

How often do you feel guilty about buying something — but then do it anyway?

This is unconscious spending (aka “spreadsheet budgeting”). The main issue with it is simple: Human willpower.

Who wants to track their spending? The few people who actually try it find that their budgets completely fail after two days because tracking every penny is overwhelming.

Alternative budget building tips

Instead, we’re going to gently create a new, simple way of spending.

We’re going to help you redirect it to the places you choose, like investing, saving, and even spending more on the things you love (but less on the things you don’t).

This is going to be the foundation of your Conscious Spending Plan.

1. Know where your money is going 

You know your money matters are out of whack when it feels like you’re starring in Macklemore’s Thrift Shop music video. When there is simply too much month for your paycheck, there’s a good chance you’re not aware of what your lifestyle actually costs. 

It’s time to sit down and categorize your spending into four buckets. 

Fixed costs 

Investments 

Savings 

Guilt-free spending 

Now, you’re going to see these four categories a lot throughout our personal finance articles and that is because all your expenses are contained in these categories. When you can pinpoint what belongs where you’ll quickly start understanding where the gaps in your financial plan are. 

For instance, if you’re spending $500 per month on guilt-free spending and nothing on savings or investments, is it really guilt-free spending? Or if you have a fixed costs bill of $5,000, but your net income is $5,000, you might have a lifestyle you can’t afford. 

Bonus: Ready to ditch debt, save money, and build real wealth? Download my FREE Ultimate Guide to Personal Finance.

Investments and savings are easy enough to tally up, but it’s worth going through your fixed costs and guilt-free spending categories to see whether you’re overspending. 

Fixed costs examples 

To make sure the money goes where it needs to, you need to complete your fixed costs category first. You also need to allocate funds to this category first. 

If you’re living paycheck to paycheck, this is also the area you want to comb through to make sure you’re not paying for things you don’t actually need or want. You may find moving to a cheaper apartment or selling a car might allow you to breathe a little easier month-to-month, but the culling needs to make sense to you. What does it help to save $100 on rent every month only to spend $100 extra on traveling? 

There are four major components that you simply can’t eliminate completely, or most people anyway. They’re housing, utilities, food, and transport. Other items in this category include internet costs, education, healthcare, debt repayments, insurances, and other expenses that pop up every month without fail. 

Guilt-free spending examples 

These are your subscription services, endless cups of Starbucks, expensive shoes, dining out, you get the picture? Now, just to be clear, just because we have this as a category, doesn’t mean we’re saying you need to allocate money to it. If you’re scraping the peanut butter jar so badly you’re starting to get plastic shavings on your sandwich, you may want to clear up some fixed expenses first. 

2. Build your budgeting systems 

Have you ever caught yourself saying, “I’ll get that on payday” or “We’ll go there on payday” or my personal favorite, “Your birthday is so inconvenient. It’s smack bang in the middle of the month, who has money at that time?”. I’ll tell you who has money. People who know where their money goes. 

That may seem a little, eh, harsh, but it’s not meant to be. You can be that person who doesn’t care whether someone has an event on the 1st or any other day for that matter. The only difference payday makes, is that it’s the day a new salary payment lands in your account. If that money isn’t carefully allocated into different categories, you’ll eat into money meant for savings and investments. 

So how do you get off this slippery slope? 

Allocate sub-accounts in your savings 

While we’re big on investments, we also know the value of saving for short term goals. Chucking everything into one account with no clear direction is like throwing a mixed laundry load into the washing machine on a hot cycle. You just never know when your whites are going to turn pink. 

Your savings account should have sub-categories that allow you to save up for your various needs. For instance: 

Emergency fund: Ideally, you’ll have at least 3-6 months worth of fixed cost expenses saved in an emergency fund. But if you’re really ambitious, go for one year. The pandemic taught us many things, one of which is that a solid emergency fund can ease potential hardship. 

Gifting and birthdays: If your budget is tight, it’s important that you budget birthdays and gifting ahead of time.  

Car service and maintenance: If you don’t have a motor plan, you need to put money away for services, maintenance matters such as tires, and car-related things that might pop up. You don’t want to dip into emergency savings for predictable expenses.

Big deposits: Vacations, a wedding, downpayment on property or car, this is the category where that goes.  

If you’re with a bank worth their weight in, uhm gold, they’ll allow you to open these sub-accounts at no extra charge and still offer to pay some interest on it. It might take you half an hour to set this up, but guess what, when it’s done, you don’t have to think about it again until you need to use it. Here are the savings accounts that we recommend – we are not affiliated with them in any way, but we use them and like them.

Automate your finances 

We’re really, really big on this. Automating your personal finances is a game-changer. 

It takes the fear of the unknown out of your finances 

You don’t have to spend a ton of time on your finances (increasing the chances that you’ll actually stick to a system)

You’re able to identify holes or money traps in your budget 

It helps you build good financial habits 

You can automate your finances to such an extent that you simply have to give your bank accounts a glance over once in a while to make sure things are still running as they should. 

Every single thing that needs to be paid, can be automated. Let’s have a look: 

Credit cards: Set up your credit card to have the balance auto-paid every month from your checking account. Settling the balance in full every month is an important step in money management and will do wonders for your budget. Not only will you save on interest, but it also boosts your credit score if you manage to keep your usage to no more than 30%. Automatic payments also ensure that the card is paid on time, every time. The importance of this extends beyond your relationship with the credit card, it can also influence future financial products such as buying a house. 

Investments: Instruct your company or investment firm to automatically withdraw a certain amount from your bank or every paycheck for your retirement accounts. Your goal is to automate your finances to such an extent that you’ve maxed out your allowable contributions to these accounts before moving on to other investment types such as index funds. 

Savings: Predetermining your savings and setting up an auto-transfer to your savings pockets will free up time and will make you less inclined to spend the money before you save it. There will always be something to save for, even if you’ve reached the limit to your emergency savings. Think home upgrades, new tech, a wardrobe revamp. 

Utilities: You can set up direct debit with most utility companies online. You know your utilities are up to date, you simply need to check the statement to make sure the amounts don’t differ. Other than that, there’s nothing else for you to do. 

Bonus: Learn more about automating your finances with our FREE Ultimate Guide to Personal Finance. It’ll show you step-by-step how to set up your accounts.

3. Cut mercilessly on things you don’t love or need

Don’t like watching TV? Cancel the Netflix subscription. What about the gym subscription? Is it possible for you to get the same results at home? 

Now move on to things that are a little more serious. Let’s talk about your property, for instance. There is a truckload of other expenses that you need to consider when buying a property. You’re not just going to have a long-term mortgage. 

Before you even own the house, you need to have the downpayment, closing costs, and reserves on hand. While the downpayment and reserves are in your best interest, it may take time to build it up. 

Ongoing costs to consider include HOA costs, insurances, property taxes, maintenance, and utilities. Now, ask yourself whether you’re still okay with it, or whether you might just be better off renting for a couple of years until you’re 100% sure you want to settle in a specific location. 

Now, this might be an unpopular opinion, but owning a house is not the be-all and end-all our parents made it out to be. It’s damn expensive and you need to be financially secure enough to take it on. It’s not for everyone, especially those who consider themselves modern nomads. 

You may not want to cut out every day items that you love, like lattes and dinners out with friends, but if you can make cuts on major expenses like housing, that’s a huge win.

4. Increase spending on the stuff that matters

Don’t let anyone tell you you’re wasting money when you’re spending it on the things that matter to you. 

When you’ve done your bit and allocated money to all the other categories and you have money leftover, it’s your prerogative to spend it how you want. So what if you like $1,000 shoes? If you can afford it and it matters to you, then it belongs in your guilt-free spending category. 

When you’re doing this right and you’ve allocated what you need to in the other categories, imagine getting the figure up to 30% or even 40% of your take-home pay? 

5. Boost your income 

Money isn’t everything, but if you like to live a life of experiences, being broke sucks. So how do you strike a balance between your top-heavy budget and some fun money? If you’ve already gone through the culling discussed in step 3, don’t reduce your savings or investments. Instead, look for ways to boost your income. Knowing how to make a budget is knowing how to make your money work. 

Your salary might have potential 

When was the last time you had a raise? If it was last year after a performance review and didn’t even compete with inflation, it’s time to take out your calculator and start doing the math. A raise today could lead to more retirement savings, higher future salaries, a bigger dent in your debt, and more fun money. 

It’s worth the discussion and if you follow our founder Ramit Sethi’s negotiation steps, you might just be looking at a dream salary. 

If you can’t increase your salary at your current job, why not put your feelers out and use those very same steps on your interviewer? Who knows, instead of a tiny increase, you might be looking at a salary hop of a couple of thousand dollars per year. It’s worth a look. 

Negotiate your financial and non-financial products 

You can reduce that fixed costs spending category in a matter of minutes simply by picking up the phone and reminding your service providers what a good customer you are.

Let’s start with banks. There is a smorgasbord of products they offer and each one is either designed to keep their liquidity high (savings accounts) or earn them the big dollars (by offering credit with interest). 

You can either spend time negotiating half a percentage on your small savings account, or you can tackle the big-ticket items. For starters, if your mortgage is at a higher interest rate than it needs to be, check out the pros and cons of refinancing. Just make sure that if you go down this route, that the lender doesn’t hit you with a nasty processing fee. 

Checking accounts and credit cards are two other products that can do with a price check. If you’re paying monthly or annual fees, it’s time to call them up and bring that figure down. 

But there are other areas you can save.

Internet service providers that onboard new customers at a lower rate. Get them to lower yours too in order to keep your business. 

Gym membership fees. Depending on the club and the length of time you’ve been with them, ask them to see if there’s a way to cut down on the fees. 

Start a side hustle 

A side hustle can be a great way to boost your income, especially if you start out with as few overheads as possible, for instance, an online business. It might take you a couple of months to start making money, but those months are going to pass anyway so why not do something anyway? 

Now, figuring out which side hustle to start is easier than you think. If you know how to play an online game or order something online, you already have enough internet savvy to start your own thing. Yep. 

Side hustles that require very little startup cash, if any, include freelance writing, stock photography (you probably have a better camera on your phone than the photographer next door with his 90’s lenses), or a dropshipping store. 

Budgeting FAQs

How should a beginner budget? 

It all starts with the basics. Know exactly how much is coming in and how much is going out. You may have to write it down until it becomes second nature. Then, you follow the steps above which include financial automation and conscious spending. 

What are the 50/20/30 and 70/20/10 budget rules? 

The 50/20/30 rule is a budget guideline that states 50% of your after-tax income should go towards commitments and obligatory expenses. Then 20% on savings and debt repayments and the remaining 30% on everything else. 

The 70/20/10 states that 70% should go towards expenses, 20% on savings, and 10% on giving. 

While these are handy when you’re still trying to figure things out, it’s important that you find a ratio that works for you. The goal is simple, decrease your debt, increase your savings and investments, and allow yourself some guilt-free spending. 

What is the envelope system? 

The idea is that you have an envelope for each payment category. So you’d have one for your housing, one for utilities, another for food, and so on. Great envelope systems include investments and savings too. 

However, technology has shown us that everything’s easier when you automate it. Apps such as Fudget and Monefy are great for those who wish to use the envelope system. This allows you to stay on top of your obligations, have a proactive approach to budgeting, and not overspend. 

Summary

A budget is not a spreadsheet. It’s a proactive approach to your finances and allows you the financial freedom to meet your financial obligations and commitments. It also allows your money to work for you and buy you great life experiences and the rich life you desire, all while building up the financial foundation for future you.

Get the ultimate guide to making money

The best way to ensure flexibility in your budget is to earn more money.

And there are a few different ways you can do this:

Negotiate a raise. If you have a job, this is a no-brainer … but it takes a lot of planning and study.

Tap into hidden income. With a few 5-minute phone calls you can save yourself THOUSANDS every year. Find out how with this free PDF.

Do freelance work. Starting a side hustle is one of my favorite ways to make money. Using the skills you already have, you can start fuel-injecting your income. Here’s how to find the best side hustle ideas today.

If you apply the right systems you can find the money to make expensive purchases AND earn money at the same time.

That’s why we want to offer you something:

The Ultimate Guide to Making Money

In it, Ramit has included his best strategies to:

Create multiple income streams so you always have a consistent source of revenue.

Start your own business and escape the 9-to-5 for good.

Increase your income by thousands of dollars a year through side hustles like freelancing.

Download a FREE copy of the Ultimate Guide today by entering your name and email below — and start earning more money today.

Yes, send me the Ultimate Guide to Making Money

Please enable JavaScript in your browser to complete this form.

Name *

Email *

Give me instant access!

100% privacy. No games, no B.S., no spam. When you sign up, we’ll keep you posted

Budget help: How to build a bulletproof budget is a post from: I Will Teach You To Be Rich.

from Surety Bond Brokers? Business https://www.iwillteachyoutoberich.com/blog/budget-help/

[mcjoelcain]

Budget help: How to build a bulletproof budget

Even after 10+ years of spreading the Rich Life gospel, our founder Ramit Sethi still runs into people who need budget help. They typically:

(A) Don’t know how to build a budget.

(B) Don’t know how much they’re spending each month.

For example, this tweet:

The answers he got back were fascinating:

What do you notice about the responses?

Some common themes are fear, laziness, confusion, and even anger.

If that sounds familiar to you, that’s okay! We want to be there to help.

That’s why we’re going to break it down to the basics today on how you can build a budget.

Bonus: Want to know how to make as much money as you want and live life on your terms? Download my FREE Ultimate Guide to Making Money

Why you need budget help

When people think budgeting, images of their parents studiously going over receipts, writing down expenses in a notebook, and screaming, “HOW DID WE SPEND SO MUCH ON GAS LAST WEEK?” come to mind.

That might have worked for them … but it sure doesn’t work now.

How many times have you opened your bills, winced, then shrugged and said, “I guess I spent that much”?

How often do you feel guilty about buying something — but then do it anyway?

This is unconscious spending (aka “spreadsheet budgeting”). The main issue with it is simple: Human willpower.

Who wants to track their spending? The few people who actually try it find that their budgets completely fail after two days because tracking every penny is overwhelming.

Alternative budget building tips

Instead, we’re going to gently create a new, simple way of spending.

We’re going to help you redirect it to the places you choose, like investing, saving, and even spending more on the things you love (but less on the things you don’t).

This is going to be the foundation of your Conscious Spending Plan.

1. Know where your money is going 

You know your money matters are out of whack when it feels like you’re starring in Macklemore’s Thrift Shop music video. When there is simply too much month for your paycheck, there’s a good chance you’re not aware of what your lifestyle actually costs. 

It’s time to sit down and categorize your spending into four buckets. 

Fixed costs 

Investments 

Savings 

Guilt-free spending 

Now, you’re going to see these four categories a lot throughout our personal finance articles and that is because all your expenses are contained in these categories. When you can pinpoint what belongs where you’ll quickly start understanding where the gaps in your financial plan are. 

For instance, if you’re spending $500 per month on guilt-free spending and nothing on savings or investments, is it really guilt-free spending? Or if you have a fixed costs bill of $5,000, but your net income is $5,000, you might have a lifestyle you can’t afford. 

Bonus: Ready to ditch debt, save money, and build real wealth? Download my FREE Ultimate Guide to Personal Finance.

Investments and savings are easy enough to tally up, but it’s worth going through your fixed costs and guilt-free spending categories to see whether you’re overspending. 

Fixed costs examples 

To make sure the money goes where it needs to, you need to complete your fixed costs category first. You also need to allocate funds to this category first. 

If you’re living paycheck to paycheck, this is also the area you want to comb through to make sure you’re not paying for things you don’t actually need or want. You may find moving to a cheaper apartment or selling a car might allow you to breathe a little easier month-to-month, but the culling needs to make sense to you. What does it help to save $100 on rent every month only to spend $100 extra on traveling? 

There are four major components that you simply can’t eliminate completely, or most people anyway. They’re housing, utilities, food, and transport. Other items in this category include internet costs, education, healthcare, debt repayments, insurances, and other expenses that pop up every month without fail. 

Guilt-free spending examples 

These are your subscription services, endless cups of Starbucks, expensive shoes, dining out, you get the picture? Now, just to be clear, just because we have this as a category, doesn’t mean we’re saying you need to allocate money to it. If you’re scraping the peanut butter jar so badly you’re starting to get plastic shavings on your sandwich, you may want to clear up some fixed expenses first. 

2. Build your budgeting systems 

Have you ever caught yourself saying, “I’ll get that on payday” or “We’ll go there on payday” or my personal favorite, “Your birthday is so inconvenient. It’s smack bang in the middle of the month, who has money at that time?”. I’ll tell you who has money. People who know where their money goes. 

That may seem a little, eh, harsh, but it’s not meant to be. You can be that person who doesn’t care whether someone has an event on the 1st or any other day for that matter. The only difference payday makes, is that it’s the day a new salary payment lands in your account. If that money isn’t carefully allocated into different categories, you’ll eat into money meant for savings and investments. 

So how do you get off this slippery slope? 

Allocate sub-accounts in your savings 

While we’re big on investments, we also know the value of saving for short term goals. Chucking everything into one account with no clear direction is like throwing a mixed laundry load into the washing machine on a hot cycle. You just never know when your whites are going to turn pink. 

Your savings account should have sub-categories that allow you to save up for your various needs. For instance: 

Emergency fund: Ideally, you’ll have at least 3-6 months worth of fixed cost expenses saved in an emergency fund. But if you’re really ambitious, go for one year. The pandemic taught us many things, one of which is that a solid emergency fund can ease potential hardship. 

Gifting and birthdays: If your budget is tight, it’s important that you budget birthdays and gifting ahead of time.  

Car service and maintenance: If you don’t have a motor plan, you need to put money away for services, maintenance matters such as tires, and car-related things that might pop up. You don’t want to dip into emergency savings for predictable expenses.

Big deposits: Vacations, a wedding, downpayment on property or car, this is the category where that goes.  

If you’re with a bank worth their weight in, uhm gold, they’ll allow you to open these sub-accounts at no extra charge and still offer to pay some interest on it. It might take you half an hour to set this up, but guess what, when it’s done, you don’t have to think about it again until you need to use it. Here are the savings accounts that we recommend – we are not affiliated with them in any way, but we use them and like them.

Automate your finances 

We’re really, really big on this. Automating your personal finances is a game-changer. 

It takes the fear of the unknown out of your finances 

You don’t have to spend a ton of time on your finances (increasing the chances that you’ll actually stick to a system)

You’re able to identify holes or money traps in your budget 

It helps you build good financial habits 

You can automate your finances to such an extent that you simply have to give your bank accounts a glance over once in a while to make sure things are still running as they should. 

Every single thing that needs to be paid, can be automated. Let’s have a look: 

Credit cards: Set up your credit card to have the balance auto-paid every month from your checking account. Settling the balance in full every month is an important step in money management and will do wonders for your budget. Not only will you save on interest, but it also boosts your credit score if you manage to keep your usage to no more than 30%. Automatic payments also ensure that the card is paid on time, every time. The importance of this extends beyond your relationship with the credit card, it can also influence future financial products such as buying a house. 

Investments: Instruct your company or investment firm to automatically withdraw a certain amount from your bank or every paycheck for your retirement accounts. Your goal is to automate your finances to such an extent that you’ve maxed out your allowable contributions to these accounts before moving on to other investment types such as index funds. 

Savings: Predetermining your savings and setting up an auto-transfer to your savings pockets will free up time and will make you less inclined to spend the money before you save it. There will always be something to save for, even if you’ve reached the limit to your emergency savings. Think home upgrades, new tech, a wardrobe revamp. 

Utilities: You can set up direct debit with most utility companies online. You know your utilities are up to date, you simply need to check the statement to make sure the amounts don’t differ. Other than that, there’s nothing else for you to do. 

Bonus: Learn more about automating your finances with our FREE Ultimate Guide to Personal Finance. It’ll show you step-by-step how to set up your accounts.

3. Cut mercilessly on things you don’t love or need

Don’t like watching TV? Cancel the Netflix subscription. What about the gym subscription? Is it possible for you to get the same results at home? 

Now move on to things that are a little more serious. Let’s talk about your property, for instance. There is a truckload of other expenses that you need to consider when buying a property. You’re not just going to have a long-term mortgage. 

Before you even own the house, you need to have the downpayment, closing costs, and reserves on hand. While the downpayment and reserves are in your best interest, it may take time to build it up. 

Ongoing costs to consider include HOA costs, insurances, property taxes, maintenance, and utilities. Now, ask yourself whether you’re still okay with it, or whether you might just be better off renting for a couple of years until you’re 100% sure you want to settle in a specific location. 

Now, this might be an unpopular opinion, but owning a house is not the be-all and end-all our parents made it out to be. It’s damn expensive and you need to be financially secure enough to take it on. It’s not for everyone, especially those who consider themselves modern nomads. 

You may not want to cut out every day items that you love, like lattes and dinners out with friends, but if you can make cuts on major expenses like housing, that’s a huge win.

4. Increase spending on the stuff that matters

Don’t let anyone tell you you’re wasting money when you’re spending it on the things that matter to you. 

When you’ve done your bit and allocated money to all the other categories and you have money leftover, it’s your prerogative to spend it how you want. So what if you like $1,000 shoes? If you can afford it and it matters to you, then it belongs in your guilt-free spending category. 

When you’re doing this right and you’ve allocated what you need to in the other categories, imagine getting the figure up to 30% or even 40% of your take-home pay? 

5. Boost your income 

Money isn’t everything, but if you like to live a life of experiences, being broke sucks. So how do you strike a balance between your top-heavy budget and some fun money? If you’ve already gone through the culling discussed in step 3, don’t reduce your savings or investments. Instead, look for ways to boost your income. Knowing how to make a budget is knowing how to make your money work. 

Your salary might have potential 

When was the last time you had a raise? If it was last year after a performance review and didn’t even compete with inflation, it’s time to take out your calculator and start doing the math. A raise today could lead to more retirement savings, higher future salaries, a bigger dent in your debt, and more fun money. 

It’s worth the discussion and if you follow our founder Ramit Sethi’s negotiation steps, you might just be looking at a dream salary. 

If you can’t increase your salary at your current job, why not put your feelers out and use those very same steps on your interviewer? Who knows, instead of a tiny increase, you might be looking at a salary hop of a couple of thousand dollars per year. It’s worth a look. 

Negotiate your financial and non-financial products 

You can reduce that fixed costs spending category in a matter of minutes simply by picking up the phone and reminding your service providers what a good customer you are.

Let’s start with banks. There is a smorgasbord of products they offer and each one is either designed to keep their liquidity high (savings accounts) or earn them the big dollars (by offering credit with interest). 

You can either spend time negotiating half a percentage on your small savings account, or you can tackle the big-ticket items. For starters, if your mortgage is at a higher interest rate than it needs to be, check out the pros and cons of refinancing. Just make sure that if you go down this route, that the lender doesn’t hit you with a nasty processing fee. 

Checking accounts and credit cards are two other products that can do with a price check. If you’re paying monthly or annual fees, it’s time to call them up and bring that figure down. 

But there are other areas you can save.

Internet service providers that onboard new customers at a lower rate. Get them to lower yours too in order to keep your business. 

Gym membership fees. Depending on the club and the length of time you’ve been with them, ask them to see if there’s a way to cut down on the fees. 

Start a side hustle 

A side hustle can be a great way to boost your income, especially if you start out with as few overheads as possible, for instance, an online business. It might take you a couple of months to start making money, but those months are going to pass anyway so why not do something anyway? 

Now, figuring out which side hustle to start is easier than you think. If you know how to play an online game or order something online, you already have enough internet savvy to start your own thing. Yep. 

Side hustles that require very little startup cash, if any, include freelance writing, stock photography (you probably have a better camera on your phone than the photographer next door with his 90’s lenses), or a dropshipping store. 

Budgeting FAQs

How should a beginner budget? 

It all starts with the basics. Know exactly how much is coming in and how much is going out. You may have to write it down until it becomes second nature. Then, you follow the steps above which include financial automation and conscious spending. 

What are the 50/20/30 and 70/20/10 budget rules? 

The 50/20/30 rule is a budget guideline that states 50% of your after-tax income should go towards commitments and obligatory expenses. Then 20% on savings and debt repayments and the remaining 30% on everything else. 

The 70/20/10 states that 70% should go towards expenses, 20% on savings, and 10% on giving. 

While these are handy when you’re still trying to figure things out, it’s important that you find a ratio that works for you. The goal is simple, decrease your debt, increase your savings and investments, and allow yourself some guilt-free spending. 

What is the envelope system? 

The idea is that you have an envelope for each payment category. So you’d have one for your housing, one for utilities, another for food, and so on. Great envelope systems include investments and savings too. 

However, technology has shown us that everything’s easier when you automate it. Apps such as Fudget and Monefy are great for those who wish to use the envelope system. This allows you to stay on top of your obligations, have a proactive approach to budgeting, and not overspend. 

Summary

A budget is not a spreadsheet. It’s a proactive approach to your finances and allows you the financial freedom to meet your financial obligations and commitments. It also allows your money to work for you and buy you great life experiences and the rich life you desire, all while building up the financial foundation for future you.

Get the ultimate guide to making money

The best way to ensure flexibility in your budget is to earn more money.

And there are a few different ways you can do this:

Negotiate a raise. If you have a job, this is a no-brainer … but it takes a lot of planning and study.

Tap into hidden income. With a few 5-minute phone calls you can save yourself THOUSANDS every year. Find out how with this free PDF.

Do freelance work. Starting a side hustle is one of my favorite ways to make money. Using the skills you already have, you can start fuel-injecting your income. Here’s how to find the best side hustle ideas today.

If you apply the right systems you can find the money to make expensive purchases AND earn money at the same time.

That’s why we want to offer you something:

The Ultimate Guide to Making Money

In it, Ramit has included his best strategies to:

Create multiple income streams so you always have a consistent source of revenue.

Start your own business and escape the 9-to-5 for good.

Increase your income by thousands of dollars a year through side hustles like freelancing.

Download a FREE copy of the Ultimate Guide today by entering your name and email below — and start earning more money today.

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Budget help: How to build a bulletproof budget is a post from: I Will Teach You To Be Rich.

from Money https://www.iwillteachyoutoberich.com/blog/budget-help/ via http://www.rssmix.com/

[firereblogger]

Common Money Mistakes

Disposing of disposable income. As you move into the corporate world, or your trade, or even get a promotion at your current job you may start seeing more money coming into your account. Bigger paychecks, better benefits, maybe even bonuses. You’ll probably also start seeing some bigger temptations. When I first started getting a decent paycheck my temptation was to go to the mall and shop at stores like JCPenney’s or Torrid. Now, I spent my entire life buying clothes at second hand stores a couple shirts and pairs of jeans a year. So Torrid’s nice business clothes? That was fancy. I went, I found a brand they carried that I liked quite a bit and I bought several shirts and a few pairs of pants, a blazer with some blouses Maybe spent a couple hundred over a few months, now it would not be exaggerating to say that’s about how much I had spent on clothes my entire life. ($10-15 annual budget 6th grade onwards). And at first it was nice, I was so happy to have made it to the point where I could go out and buy myself a nice shirt. And you know what, that was nice. But it didn’t make me happy in the long-term. After two or three months I stopped going – because sure now I had some nice shirts and business clothes, but I never really wore them. Instead, I started buying Gildan brand shirts online from shops like blankapparel. They’re $2-3 heavy cotton shirts that last forever and are really nice quality. All that disposal income I had been disposing of on clothes was rerouted to high-yield savings accounts instead.

Spending too much on housing. Now, I’m a sucker for an apartment with a washer and dryer in the unit. When I bought my duplex literally what I was most excited about was the fact that there was a washer and dryer. I’m not kidding the first night I drove up an hour from my apartment just to do half a load of laundry. So I can absolutely understand wanting to spend extra on a location with a washer and dryer – but the question is how much extra in my area a washer and dryer can increase rent by ~$100/month if not more. The rule I’ve heard several times is to spend less than 30% of your income on your housing, however that percent is greatly dependent on the cost of living. My rule of thumb – get the cheapest livable place you can find with as many roommates as you can stand. I spent years wishing I had a washer and dryer and instead spent years saving that extra $100 a month (well $50 since I had at least one roommate). So my advice is to find somewhere that’s close enough to your job/school that you can still get there with heating/cooling/no pests and to start saving money from there. Of course, if having an really nice apartment, or having privacy with no roommates is important to you take that into consideration. Just make sure you are considering the future value of that extra rent money instead of just the present value.

Debt. Emergency funds are important, and everyone should have something even if it’s not the 3 – 6 months salary that’s often recommended. Honestly, even an emergency $100 could be very important to have. Some people will use credit cards as their emergency fund, this should be your absolute last resort. Credit cards have very high interest rates, which means that any expenses paid for on a card will grow at an alarmingly fast rate. Say you have a sudden $500 expense, and you have a 24% APY credit card. That means that you will need to pay an additional 2% of interest every month. But because that 2% of interest is compounding it’s not the same as adding $10 every month, instead it’s adding $10 of principal. Which means that your next 2% interest add is 510 * 1.02 rather than 500 * 1.02. Let’s say in this scenario that you make a payment of $15 a month towards your $500 debt. It will take you 56 months to pay down the balance, and you will end up paying over $332 in interest. Making your total cost closer to $832.It will take almost two years before your $15 payment goes more towards principal than interest! Now imagine spending that $500 on a new phone, or pair of shoes, or some other non-essential non-emergency. It’s a bad idea.

Not saving for Retirement. Now this whole blog is geared towards early retirement, but that’s not everyone’s cup of tea. Maybe you like your job. Maybe you don’t mind your job and prefer living at a certain income level rather than trying to save every penny for retirement. Maybe you’re early in your career and don’t feel like you make enough to save for early retirement. You should still be saving for retirement. The greatest asset we have is time, and investing earlier even if it’s in small amounts, gives it time to grow. A $1,000 invested when you’re 25 can grow to be double what $1,000 invested when you’re 35 would. Even if it’s only a few dollars a week start investing early, brokerage platforms like Robinhood have very low minimums and you can invest in funds or ETFs on it.

If you invest, don’t be conservative. I had this problem when I first started investing. I let an older finance manager invest my first $3,000 with the understanding that it would be a retirement account. HE PUT IT ALL I N BONDS???? Okay, I’m young, I should be focused on growth with most if not all of my funds in stock. They’re higher risk, but if I’m planning on holding them for 20-30 years that risk is greatly mitigated. I lost over a year of growth before I realized that the retirement fund he had put my money in was intended for people in the 50s to 60s that already had a decent amount of value and now needed lower risk and lower growth investment vehicles. Since I moved my portfolio out of bonds and into stocks it has nearly doubled, the red line is when I realized my mistake and switched my funds into a stock portfolio.

Go big or Go Home!

[newstfionline]

How One Book Changed My Relationship With Money

By Concepción De León, NY Times, Feb. 8, 2018

Last spring I picked up “Your Money or Your Life,” by Joe Dominguez and Vicki Robin, because I heard it had recently helped one man make a fortune. Originally published in 1992, the seminal personal finance book teaches a nine-step, systemic approach to money management that was created by Mr. Dominguez, who died in 1997. Since its publication, the book has been translated into 10 languages and sold more than one million copies, and a fourth edition will be released later this month.

“Your Money” turned out not to be a vehicle toward amassing money, as I expected. Instead, Ms. Robin encourages readers to work toward having “enough”--a quantifiable amount that would cover their needs and wants--rather than an ever-receding goal of “more.” She proposes people live more frugally, naming consumerism and its trappings as the root of many Americans’ financial challenges.

The idea seemed antithetical to the wealth I’d always aspired to. I grew up with my dad, surrounded by family, sharing two or three bedroom apartments with my cousins and aunts. Like many immigrants and low-income Americans, they worked long hours and relied on one another to get by. My dad and his sisters provided child care for each other. We ate at home every day--big pots of chicken, beans and rice that, if cooked well, left concón: crunchy, flavorful grains stuck to the bottom of the pan that we scraped off with a metal spoon. My cousins and I often clamored around the stove to get some on our plates.

I realized later that concón, or semi-burnt rice, wasn’t meant to be eaten. In the Dominican Republic, where my father grew up with his parents and seven sisters, they ate concón out of necessity, because there wasn’t always enough food to go around. But in New York, they built their new lives around the same thriftiness and communal support they’d learned back home, and they banked on their sacrifice paying off--if not in the fulfillment of their dreams, then in that of their children, who might help lift them out of poverty. I always hoped to be that person for my family.

So Ms. Robin’s suggestion that I should live a life similar to the one my family lived, stretching dollars and counting pennies, was a radical departure, and the idea captivated me. I pored through the book, extending my commute to get through more pages. I kept reading even during my walk to the office, weaving through rush-hour foot traffic with a highlighter in hand, placing Post-its on pages I wanted to come back to.

The cornerstone of the program has echoes of the common adage “Time is money.” In an early chapter, readers learn to find their “real” hourly wage by factoring the hidden time and money spent on work-related expenditures into their pay.

If you are paid $25 per hour for a 40-hour workweek, for instance, but spend 30 additional hours commuting, decompressing or nursing stress-induced headaches, and $300 goes toward your business suits, your “real” hourly wage is $10 per hour. That means a $100 splurge at Sephora costs you 600 minutes of your life. You’re forced to ask, at every turn, “Was it worth it?”

“Your Money” redefines not only your relationship to money, but also to work itself.

Ms. Robin calls our jobs, what we do to put food on the table, “paid employment,” and argues that our collective definition of work should be expanded to include “any productive or purposeful activity,” such as caring for a child or volunteering at a homeless shelter. Money and “paid employment,” then, should help us live fuller lives, but not dominate them.

For the writers, this realization manifested in a commitment to early retirement--not from work as defined by Ms. Robin, but from the nine-to-five grind. They zoned in on how much they needed, saved aggressively and invested smartly and early; now, Ms. Robin lives off the income she earns from those investments. And she is working with Millennial Money blogger Grant Sabatier (the millionaire whose story originally piqued my interest in the book) to create an online community for “Your Money” devotees. Mr. Sabatier famously increased his bank account balance from $2.26 to $1 million in five years, and he credits the book for lighting a fire under him. “After I reached financial independence, it’s literally like 90 percent of my brain opened up,” he said

In 2016, when I quit my job and moved to the Dominican Republic for a few months, using my limited savings and some freelance income to live a quality life, I felt a similar clearing of mental space. I also witnessed firsthand the sustainable way my family and others lived there. Most had fruit trees bearing coconuts, star fruit or mangoes growing on the land surrounding their houses, and my grandmother and aunts owned hogs and chickens that they’d eventually sell or eat. Family gatherings happened in my aunt’s living room, with one cousin contributing a few jumbo sized Brahma or Presidente bottles of beer and an uncle or aunt, a portion of the meal. When one of the wealthier neighbors in our countryside built a well, he installed a spout outside his home so anyone could fill their buckets with clean water. It was nothing like the drinks-after-work, brunch-every-weekend, treat-yourself life I lived in New York, and yet it was no less joyful.

I know much of what I witnessed in the Dominican Republic isn’t replicable here (it’s much harder to raise goats or pigs in my concrete yard in Queens), and that frugality as a choice is a privilege that does not solve the real issues of inequality that force many to live paycheck-to-paycheck. But Ms. Robin argues that if more people adopted the tenets of the book, there would be more resources to go around.

“Your Money” encouraged me to scrutinize my spending, and habits and patterns quickly emerged: I was impulsive and often overspent on credit. I forced myself to use only what I had in my bank account, which helped me realize that my credit spending was based in fear--I was afraid of running into the walls set by my debit card balance, so I used my credit cards even when I had money in my account. Once I started spending only what I had, my spending became less mindless. I felt more aware and in control.

“Your Money” teaches very concrete methods of keeping track of your finances--there are spreadsheets and expense tracking, simple graphs and investment recommendations--but what I took away from it was a shift in thinking, from chasing money for the sake of having it to using it in service to my goals: to help my parents, achieve financial and mental freedom and continue to write full-time. It worked for my family: My dad’s thriftiness helped him buy a home and start his own small business, and it helped my aunts purchase property back on the island for their retirement. I’d forgotten the values I learned as a child. “Your Money” reminded me.

[moneyscrapbook]

How To Save Money And Not Spend It (10 Simple Tips)

Do you struggle to save money and not spend it?

You’re not alone.

I spent years tapping into savings and stealing from my own financial future. In fact, at times, the only reason I would put money into savings, was to build up enough cash to make my next big purchase. So, in other words, I can relate.

But if you want to build wealth–and escape the paycheck to paycheck lifestyle–you need to break the habit of dipping into your savings. The good news is, if I can do it, anybody can.

All it takes is a little bit of discipline (provided by you), and a few helpful tips (provided by me).

Let’s get to it.

Do A Budgeting Checkup

I’m a strong believer that getting on a budget is the first step to financial freedom. Additionally, going forward, it should be the starting point for every financial decision you make.

But, if you constantly find yourself running low on funds and dipping into savings, it is likely just a symptom of an inaccurate, or mis-aligned budget.

So, in an effort to protect your savings, let’s do a quick 3-step budgeting check-up.

#1 – Assess Your Expenses

If you’re constantly pulling money from savings, one of two things is happening. Either you are spending too much money, or you aren’t budgeting enough for expenses in the first place.

So, lay out every one of your expenses for the last month, and be honest about which ones are necessary, and which ones are frivolous. If there aren’t many frivolous expenses, you may just need to adjust your budget. If there are, you probably need to address your spending habits.

#2 – Repair The Leaks

Every budget is bound to spring a few leaks now and again. But even small leaks can lead to disaster. So, it’s time to repair them.

What is a budgeting leak? A budgeting leak is any monthly expense that is small enough to be overlooked, but consistent enough to cause you to spend beyond your budget. Most commonly, budgeting leaks manifest in the form of food spending, subscriptions, or retail shopping.

For instance, almost every time I start to spend beyond my budget, I can relate it back to a series of $7 Chipotle burritos. Individually, they don’t seem like a problem, but over the course of a month, they can drain my budget. (I’m sad even writing that)

So, what’s your leak?

Are there any small, consistent expenses you can reduce or eliminate that will keep you from going over-budget and dipping into savings? Comment below and let us know.

#3 – Be Realistic

If a married couple with five children told you they set their grocery budget at $100 per month, you would probably laugh at them. But if you constantly find yourself pulling money out of savings, you might be doing the same thing; just on a less obvious scale.

There’s no use putting $100 into savings each month if you’re just going to have to pull it out to pay for the same reason you do every single month.

The reality is that you might just need to add $100 to that category of your budget.

Segment Your Savings

There are many different reasons to save money, yet most people only have one savings account. The problem with this, is that any expense, over and above your normal monthly budget has to come out of one big pile of money, which doesn’t feel good.

Just like every other expense in your budget, every dollar you put into savings should have a purpose. Are you saving for car maintenance? Are you saving for Christmas? Are you saving for a vacation? Then, separate your savings into different accounts that each exist to serve a defined purpose.

These accounts can be broken down into two categories: your emergency fund, and sinking funds.

Emergency Fund

If you don’t have an emergency fund, building one should be your number one savings priority. Like the name suggests, this fund should sit around, waiting to protect your financial life from emergencies. But let’s clear something up, a flash sale at your favorite retail store, is not an emergency.

We’re talking about true emergencies like: unexpected medical expenses, sudden job loss, or buying a new furnace in the dead of winter when your current one stops working.

So how big should your emergency fund be? You should have a minimum of 3-6 months worth of living expenses in your emergency fund. That means that if your monthly cost of living is $2,500, your emergency fund should hold between $7,500 and $15,000.

Sinking Funds

Sinking funds are essentially savings funds for predictable or inevitable expenses in life.

For example, you should have an automotive sinking fund. Why? Because car expenses, while inconsistent, are inevitable. Every car needs repairing at some point, so you should be setting money aside each month to prepare for them.

Another great example is a Christmas sinking fund. Every December you can count on the fact that you will need to buy a bunch of gifts for the people in your life. So, you should prepare your finances by putting a little money into a Christmas fund each month.

The added benefit of sinking funds, is that as long as you use the money in a sinking fund for its designated purpose, you don’t have to feel bad about dipping into it. Just don’t go buy a pair of shoes with money from your family’s vacation sinking fund. That’s not cool. (Actually come to think of it, you could set up a sinking fund for shoes, and use that money.) Sinking funds are cool!

Isolate Your Emergency Fund

In order to protect your emergency fund, you should isolate it as soon as possible. In other words, move your emergency fund to a completely different bank.

It’s important that this money remains out of sight, so that you aren’t tempted to tap into it every time you log in to your bank account.

It’s also a good idea to move your money into an account with restricted access, or penalties for withdrawing money. Let me put it this way, it’s better to be penalized $30 for withdrawing money in a real emergency than to consistently dip into savings each month, penalty free.

Stop Over-Saving

If you don’t have a spending problem, yet still find yourself dipping into savings, you might actually be trying to over-save. What? Is that even possible?

Yes.

Often times, we get so focused on our financial goals, that we abandon the reality of our income. Simply put, saving beyond your ability doesn’t work.

In other words, if you make $5,000 per month, and your living expenses are $3,000, you can’t put $2,500 into savings each month. Math is math. There’s no getting around it.

If you struggle to save money and not spend it, take a deeper look and make sure you aren’t trying to over-save.

Simplify Your Spending

One of the easiest ways to complicate your financial situation, is to spend money from multiple accounts. So, instead, we recommend using your debit card for every single purchase.

When you only have to log into one account to track your spending, everything becomes much simpler. Fewer dollars slip through the cracks, and in turn, you won’t have to dip into savings to make ends meet.

I know this idea goes against the grain of society these days, but I can honestly tell you that this has been a game changer for my wife and I. Now, either one of us can log into our bank account at any one time and update our budget without missing a single cent.

I’m telling you, it works, and it will protect your savings.

What’s the purpose for your savings?

Why?

Because, without any inspiring financial goals that you’re working hard to achieve, you are much more likely to dip into your savings. In other words, you need a more compelling reason to leave your savings alone, than your reason to spend your savings.

So, if you don’t have any financial goals, set some. And if you have lost sight of your goals, recommit to them. Otherwise, your savings account is in danger, and your financial future is at risk.

Set Up Financial Guardrails

One of the best things you can do if you want to save money and not spend it, is to build some guardrails into your financial life.

But what are financial guardrails? Financial guardrails are protective measures you put in place to stop yourself from making a bad financial decision in the future. For instance, if you want to avoid debt, cutting up your credit cards could act as your guardrail. Or, if you want to save money and not spend it, you could move your savings account to a different bank.

The purpose of a financial guardrail is to add resistance or difficulty to a bad financial decision, long before you make it.

Implement Some Accountability

If you’ve ever had a good workout partner, you’ve experienced the power of accountability. Whether they helped you get your butt out of bed and into the gym every morning, or encouraged you to push through those few extra reps, a little bit of accountability can carry a lot of influence.

Yet, when it comes to personal finance, we tend to keep everything very private. And therefore, we don’t have anyone to hold us accountable.

Thus, if you want to save money and not spend it, find yourself a financial accountability partner.

Just to be clear, I’m not saying you should announce your financial situation to the world through social media, or even tell your 5 closest friends. No, I’m saying you should find one extremely trustworthy friend or family member to become your financial fitness partner.

Together, you can hold each other accountable, encourage one another, and whip your finances into shape.

Change Your Mindset

One of the most difficult things about budgeting, and personal finance as a whole, is feeling like you’re always playing financial defense. Whether you’re cutting your budget, spending less, or trying to save money and not spend it, the defensive mindset can become a burden. And honestly, it sucks.

The good news is that a simple shift in your mindset can change everything! It’s time to start playing offense.

For instance, every time you feel like pulling money from savings, instead, force yourself to go earn the extra money you need.

Instead of ‘cutting your spending’, think of it as ‘fueling your financial goals’.

And, in place of, “I need to spend less money,” say “I’m going to save more money this month than I ever have.”

Stop playing defense, and shift your mindset. Attack your finances, and show your money who’s boss.

“Never give up! Never surrender!” –Jason Nesmith

Consider The Repercussions

Everything you do in your financial life has long term consequences, and pulling money from savings or investments is no exception. What seems like a small, insignificant decision now, will carry lasting repercussions.

For example, did you know that if you put $100 into a mutual fund–that earns an average of 10% per year–and let it sit for 40 years, it will grow to over $5,000?

So, essentially, every time you pull $100 from savings, you could be costing yourself $5,000 in retirement. The worst part is, 40 years from now you probably won’t even remember why you pulled that money out of savings.

Translation: stop dipping into your savings and spending it. You are draining more money than you know from your ultimate financial dreams.

Final Thoughts

If you struggle to save money and not spend it, you might just need a new strategy. Whether you need to adjust your budget, find an accountability partner, or start playing financial offense, the tips in this article can help you protect your savings.

[yournewapartment]

So I'm a Canadian who will be moving to Scotland later this month for university and I'm wondering: Do you have any tips for getting settled in a new country? This will be the first time I'm buying my own groceries and not using student loans so budgeting advice is also welcome.

This ask has been sitting in my inbox for like at least a month... I’m so sorry! Some posts take more time to write then others. I actually have about four asks that are all essentially this same question, so I’m going to just combine them all into one post. 

As for budgeting... here’s my two cents, in terms of Minimum Wage.

Budgeting on Minimum Wage

Overview

The average minimum wage in the US is $7.25/hr. Even working full time at 40 hours a week, that’s only a profit of $290 before taxes. This is not a fair living wage! You are worth way more than this amount! I strongly encourage you to start looking for another job that pays better, look for something around the $10-$15 range.

While $7.25 is atrocious, thousands of people around the world support families on much less. If they can do it while supporting children, so can you! To live off a minimum wage budget you need to declare yourself independent. If your parents are still claiming you as a dependent YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO DO THIS. I also recommend that you have the highest amount possible taken out of your taxes so that you get money back from your state at the end of the year, instead of being in debt to them.

What I’ve done is come up with a budgeting plan based off some made up factors and my own personal experience.

Housing

1. City life. Forget about the city! Apartments located in cities can be three times as expensive as apartments in small towns or villages. On top of the extra expense, they’re much smaller and have less amenities included. I’d much rather live in a one bedroom apartment with a dishwasher and a conveniently located Laundromat, than a literal closet with no windows on a fifth floor walkup. Look for apartments twenty minutes to a half hour outside of your closest city. Now you have the close conveniences of a city, with none of those pesky city prices that your budget can’t handle.

2. College towns. Shop around and look at apartments by local colleges. Large colleges with have apartment complexes within walking distance of the school grounds. Landlords know that college students have less money (you might even be a college student yourself) and adjust their prices accordingly. Even apartments next to ivy league schools are priced this way, so don’t be discouraged by the institution’s “prestige”.

3. Locale. Your safety is more important than your bank account. It doesn’t matter if you live in Section 8 housing or in an affluent suburb. Some apartment complexes and neighborhoods are just safer than others. I live in a heavily populated and upper middle class suburb, and the first year I moved in, a drunk woman tried to throw a beer bottle at my car. Thankfully this is the only time this happened to me, but it made me feel unsafe in my environment. Before signing a lease, walk or drive around your prospective home’s neighborhood at night. Take in the atmosphere, and make sure it’s one where you could comfortably run to the local supermarket at 10:30pm and pick up toilet paper.

4. Roommates. Living on minimum wage requires that you find one or two roommates to help split the rent. The more the better! Get together with your more responsible friends, so at least you’re living with people whose company you enjoy. There are lots of “roommate wanted” forums and message boards for you to browse on the internet, but always bring a responsible adult with you before meeting a stranger. Please. Bring your mom if you have too.

Food

1. Low-spoon food. I created this post a few months ago which offers lots of suggestions about cooking and shopping on a budget.

2. Online recipes. Here are some of my favorite online Tumblr cookbook resources.

- College Student Cookbook. Click here.

- Meals On The Go. Click here. (Not a cookbook, but super helpful)

- Broke College Kid Masterpost. Click here.

- Cooking on A Bootstrap. Click here.

- Good and Cheap. Click here.

- Budget Bytes. Click here.

3. I also regularly update my cooking on a budget tag.

Misc Expenses

1. Gas. Shop around and find the cheapest gas in your area. Avoid gas stations next to colleges, highways, and in touristy areas. Look into getting as gas rewards card from your favorite supermarket. I get 10 cents off a gallon with Stop & Shop every time I do a big shop.

2. Dollar store. Get to know your local dollar and bargain stores. You can buy everything from pots and pans to bed sheets there. These stores often sell bulk ramen for $1 and large cans of crushed tomatoes for 75 cents. That’s enough food for you to live off of for several days. When shopping, I make three grocery store stops to ensure that I spend the least amount possible on my pantry needs. I go Dollar Store, Stop and Shop, and then to my local organic grocery store. I’m going to make a list of things that I buy at Dollar Stores and things that I don’t buy at Dollar Stores soon!

3. Cable. We are living in the digital age- you don’t need cable television. Use Netflix or Hulu or whatever. It will save you tons of $$.

4. Internet. As far as internet speed goes, if you’re living with roommates you will probably need a higher speed. Living by yourself, choose a lower one. Most internet companies offer large discounts to new subscribers. These typically only last a year, but will save you serious money. Make sure to take note of when this discount expires, and contact the company before it does. If you don’t, they’ll begin charging you the full amount without notice.

5. Verizon. I just want to take a moment to talk about how much I love Verizon because they have literally saved me so much money in the three years I’ve been with them. After you sign a contract with a new internet company, they charge you a bunch of ridiculous fees like “activation fees” and “installation fees”. I called Verizon and was like “I’m a poor college student, I can’t afford this” and they were like “don’t worry, we’ll waive the fee”. I signed a two year contract with them that saved me $80 on a high-speed internet bill per month (my price being only 50.99 a month). After the contract expired I call them and they put me on a month to month, keeping the price absolutely the same. TLDR- get Verizon if you can.

6. Utility. Get on a monthly budget with whatever utility company services your new apartment. Although it may seem like the cheaper option, paying the actual amount of electricity you spend per month is the more expensive. It’s also unpredictable, and a minimum wage budget won’t allow for it. See this for more info.

7. Amazon. I buy a lot of my beauty, cleaning, and cat products online. Amazon offers Prime shipping free for a year with a student email address, and then offers it at a greatly reduced price after the year. If you are a student, snap up that free deal ASAP. If it’s in your budget, I’d greatly recommend investing in Amazon Prime.

8. Saving money. It’s so important to attempt to break way from the “paycheck to paycheck” vicious cycle. Living this way does not allow for emergency expense money, and trust me, sometime soon you will need emergency expense money. Your cat might get sick or your car may die, whatever it is, it’s always smart to have at least $500 squirreled away. I’m gonna level with you, things have been tight for my budget and I haven’t been able to save anything for the past three months. But this month I will!

Example Budgets

Full Time

Working with the $7.25/hr and 40hr/week model, here’s an example budget for living on minimum wage. That’s $1,160 a month without taxes.

Housing: Let’s say you’re sharing an apartment with two close friends, the rent being $1,500 without any amenities. That rent split three ways is $500 each.

Gas I commute twenty minutes every day, and I drop about $20-$25 a week on gas. That’s $100 on gas a month.

Food: I do one big shopping a month with my boyfriend. We drop around $180 and that’s including toiletries and soap and stuff. So maybe you’ll spend about $100 a month on all your shopping needs.

Cable/internet:  Hopefully you took my advice and skipped cable. Let’s say you’re paying around $50 per month for internet. Split three ways that’s $17 each.

Laundry: Hopefully you’re not like me and are only spending around $20 on laundry per month.

Random expenses: Because there always are some. Let’s just tack on another $100.

With everything added up, you still have around $290 left before taxes! That money can go into a savings account, and after several months, you’ll have that $500 worth of emergency money saved.

Part Time

Working with the $7.25/hr and 25hr/week model, here’s an example budget for living on minimum wage. That’s $725 without taxes.

Housing: In this case, you need to look for apartments in the $800-900 range. In my area, one bedroom apartments go for around $1000, so you may need to get creative with your roommate (I don’t think you could have more than one roommate in this situation). Buy dividers to split the bedroom or studio in half! Let’s say your rent is $850 with nothing included, that’s $425 each.

Gas You’re still looking at a large gas bill per month, so it may be more inexpensive to ride a bike or use public transportation. Let’s say you use public transportation, and spend around $50 a month on that. Or maybe you and your roommate can split gas expenses and share a car?

Food: Pinch those pennies! Use some of those budget cookbooks I linked above to help you cook healthy and delicious meals for under $4 each. See if you can only spend $80 a month on groceries.

Cable/internet:  Hopefully you took my advice and skipped cable. Let’s say you’re paying around $50 per month for internet. Split two ways is $25 each.

Laundry: Hopefully you’re not like me and are only spending around $20 on laundry per month.

Random expenses: Because there always are some. Let’s just tack on another $100.

That leaves you $25 to put in your bank account, if that. This is a paycheck to paycheck situation, and you will probably need to get another source of income to feel secure. But you can still do it!

[darcyfarber]

Borrowing From Your 401k? Here’s Everything You Need to Know

  Borrowing from your 401k anytime soon? Before you decide to take a 401k loan, read on to make sure you are making the best financial decision based on your situation.

  How is your 401k actually doing? Grab a FREE 401k check-up instantly with Blooom to see if your fees are too high. To learn exactly what Blooom is and how it works, we break it down for you here.

  Now with that said, did you know that 20% of all 401k participants have outstanding 401k loans? This surprising stat is according to the Employee Benefits Research Institute and held true since the early 2000’s.

There seems to be a lot of confusion about borrowing from your 401k. Some will say they are the worst idea since investing 100% in crypto, while others have used them to gain more than they could with a 401k. Ultimately, there is a lot of fear when it comes to accessing your retirement fund.

But the right information can ease fear. There are some instances where using a 401k loan is a horrible idea, while other times it’s an amazing idea. It all depends on why you need the money and how it can fit with helping you achieve your long-term financial goals.

Let’s get real, sometimes we get in a money crunch and need to access cash quickly. Instead of using a sketchy payday loan with high-interest rates, borrowing from your 401k loan could be a great option.

Here’s everything you need to know about 401k loans.

Table of Contents

Real Quick - What Is a 401k Again?

Basics of 401k Contributions

What is a 401k loan?

How does a 401k loan work?

Why Do People Use 401k Loans?

5 Good Reasons Borrowing From 401k

1. Purchase a home or rental property

2. Need money fast

3. Educational expenses

4. Refinancing credit card debt

5. Flexible repayment schedule

5 Good Reasons for NOT Borrowing From 401k

1. You’re Turning Off Compound Interest

2. Your Risk (and Sanity) Can Drastically Increase

3. You Get Lower Paychecks

4. You Don’t Move the Needle

5. Your Future Self Won’t Appreciate It

Alternatives to a 401k Loan

Roth IRA

Balance Transfer Offer

HELOC or Home Equity Line

Personal Loans

The 3 Biggest Myths of Borrowing From 401k

1. The Stock Market Always Goes Up

2. Tax Inefficiency

3. Leaving Work With an Unpaid Loan

FAQs About Borrowing From 401k

Does every company allow 401k loans?

What is the maximum amount I can loan from a 401k?

How long do I have to repay 401k loan?

How are 401k loans repaid?

Can I contribute to my 401k with a 401k loan as well?

What happens if I lose my job with a 401k loan?

What happens if I don’t pay back the balance in 60 days?

How do taxes work with a 401k loan?

Can I take a 401k loan from an old employer’s 401k plan?

What If I transferred my 401k to an IRA. Can I still get a 401k loan?

The Takeaway

Real Quick – What Is a 401k Again?

A 401k is an employer-sponsored retirement plan. It is the most frequently used option to fund your retirement. A 401k is only offered through an employer and is invested using pre-tax money. While you aren’t taxed while contributing, you will be taxed in the future.

Once you enroll in the plan, you will select a percentage of your paycheck to be directly deposited. One of the biggest perks of a 401k is that your employer may match a portion of your contributions. Employer contribution can come in the form of a percentage or annual amount.

For example, my past employer matched $1,000 each calendar year. While other employers can match a percentage of your total contributions. This is one of the biggest perks of using a 401k and a great way to increase your retirement savings.

Finally, as a 401k is meant for retirement, withdrawals are hit with a 10% early distribution charge and subjected to taxes as the contributions are pre-tax income.

Basics of 401k Contributions

There are no income limits like a Roth IRA. Regardless of how much you earn, you can contribute to a 401k.

If you’re under age 50, you can contribute up to $19,000 annually.

If you’re over 50, you can contribute up to $25,000 annually (this is known as a catch-up contribution).

Now that you understand the basics of a 401k, here’s how you can use your savings to loan money to yourself.

What is a 401k loan?

Borrowing from your 401k means you are essentially taking a loan from your future self. Technically, it’s not a loan as there is no lender, and accessing the money doesn’t involve your credit score in any way.

Instead of paying interest to a bank, credit union, or credit card, you’re paying interest back to yourself. As you withdraw money from your 401k, you are no longer investing that into the stock market, so your gain is actually interest from paying yourself back.

This can get confusing for some. You might be thinking, “How do I pay interest back to myself?”

Any interest charged on the outstanding loan balance is repaid by yourself into your own 401k account. In essence, you are transferring money to yourself. This makes the cost of a 401k loan minimal, and sometimes even positive depending on the stock market. In general, a 401k loan is cheaper than paying interest to a bank or credit union.

How does a 401k loan work?

With a 401k loan, the total amount you can borrow is based on your total account value. If you have a balance of $100,000 you can borrow up to $50,000, or 50%, of your total account value. Whichever is less is the amount you can borrow.

To get started, you would let your 401k provider know that you intend to take a loan out and which investments you want to borrow the money from. They will liquidate those investments and you will lose any potential gains you might have in the future.

You then have up to five years to pay back your loan. If you want to pay off early there is no early repayment penalty.

Why Do People Use 401k Loans?

Research by the Pension Research Council on 401k loans and defaults have shown that people use 401k loans for several main reasons:

40% are used to repay debts (i.e. student loan and credit cards)

30% are used home repairs or improvements

30% are used for spending (aka wasting) instead of investing or paying off loans. Don’t fall into this percentage!

5 Good Reasons Borrowing From 401k

While it can feel like a gamble, there are some good reasons for borrowing from your 401k. Here are some of the most common reasons.

1. Purchase a home or rental property

If you can use the money for a bigger down payment that reduces your interest rate or helps you avoid PMI, this is a good reason. Plus, it having extra to put down on a property also helps if your credit score is low. A low credit score doesn’t allow you to receive a great interest rate, but you may be able to get a lower rate with a larger down payment.

2. Need money fast

Most of the time a 401k loan is an easy way to get short-term cash quickly as you don’t have to submit a formal application or go through a credit check. Plus, it doesn’t generate a hard inquiry against your credit score! All it takes is a few steps within your online portal to get started.

Within a few days you can have the money in your hands. Some providers will send a check, while others will prepaid debit cards. Make sure you check in advance to see which you will receive.

But, it’s also important to note that a 401k loan is not the only way to get money quickly. Some of these side hustles pay out quickly and can help you avoid taking out a loan.

3. Educational expenses

Education is an investment in yourself and your future. If you can avoid high cost student loan debt with a 401k loan, this could be another great option. The more you learn, the more you earn!

4. Refinancing credit card debt

Credit card debt sucks. It’s high-cost and once you get in deep, it’s hard to feel like you can ever pay more than the minimum amount due. If you use the loan to pay off credit cards, you can usually pay back your 401k loan at a much lower interest rate.

5. Flexible repayment schedule

Although regulations specify a five-year repayment schedule, most 401k loans allow you to repay the plan loan faster and don’t have a prepayment penalty. Most plans allow loan repayments to be made conveniently through payroll deductions.

Note: These are after-tax dollars!

5 Good Reasons for NOT Borrowing From 401k

Taking money out of your retirement account should be for major emergencies, not for everyday expenses. If you are borrowing money to pay for things like the rent or mortgage, you need to get your budget in line.

Don’t think of your 401k as an emergency fund. Think of it as an absolute last resort before touching your retirement savings. Don’t use a 401k loan to pay for things like a bucket list trip or remodeling your living room.

Here’s why borrowing is a bad idea:

1. You’re Turning Off Compound Interest

Compound interest only works when you don’t touch the money. This is why so many people lose money when they try and time the market. It never works, even for the most successful traders in the world.

By taking a loan against your 401k you’re turning off the compound interest machine. Less compound interest equals less money in your future!

2. Your Risk (and Sanity) Can Drastically Increase

If you have a 401k loan and you decide to quit or you lose your job, the balance is due in full in 60 days or less. And if you don’t pay in full by 60 days, expect to hear from the IRS.

3. You Get Lower Paychecks

Most employers will start automatic paycheck deductions to begin the loan repayment immediately after you receive the funds. This means your paychecks are going to be smaller for the foreseeable future.

4. You Don’t Move the Needle

Instead of owing the credit card companies or car loan, you are now paying yourself back. Yes, you are absolutely paying a lower interest rate if you borrow against your 401k, but don’t forget you’re turning off the compound interest machine.

Your lower interest rate comes with negative consequences:

Increased risk with your employer (and the IRS)

Losing the power of compound interest

Double taxation

Paying more for stocks you already own

5. Your Future Self Won’t Appreciate It

While 70% of people take a 401k loan for the right reasons, 30% do it for the wrong reasons. If you’re in the 30%, your future self won’t appreciate your reckless spending in the future.

Remember, your 401k is your retirement savings. Train yourself to not even think of this an option! 

Alternatives to a 401k Loan

Again, think of this loan as an absolute last resort. Instead, check out some of these alternatives to a 401k loan so you don’t have to access your future retirement funds.

Trust me, your future self will thank you for letting compound interest do its job!

Roth IRA

Roth IRA’s are great because they are much more flexible than a 401k. With a Roth IRA you can withdraw your contributions without penalty. Yes, 100% free! This is because your contributions have already been taxed.

If you withdraw your Roth IRA earnings then you will have to pay early distribution fees. Again, this is still an individual “retirement” account. Don’t think of it as a normal savings account.

Balance Transfer Offer

Before taking out a 401k loan or withdrawing from your Roth IRA, have you checked your current credit cards balance transfer offers? Often times, cards will offer introductory and ongoing low balance transfer rates. They can be as low as 0% or up to 5% and get you cash nearly overnight.

Once you take a balance transfer, you have a set number of months to pay it off. If the balance is paid off before the end date you can pay little, if any, money in interest. I’ve done this several times and loved the freedom of having 12-18 months to pay off certain big-ticket items.

The only fees you pay are to activate the balance transfer offer, which aren’t much. These fees range from 2-5% of the total transfer amount. Personally, I’ve used this when a $5,000 air conditioner went out and when I needed new furniture. I paid the balance off before the due date and only paid the one-time setup fee.

HELOC or Home Equity Line

Depending on the reason for your 401k loan, a HELOC or home equity loan is another great option. Make sure to read more about these two options.

Personal Loans

Another way to avoid 401k loans is taking out a personal loan. Depending on your credit score and income, you can score some great deals on personal loans too.

The 3 Biggest Myths of Borrowing From 401k

When you hear some financial “gurus” talking about 401k loans there is a lot of negative words that come with it, but they aren’t all necessarily true. Here are some of the biggest myths of a 401k loan:

1. The Stock Market Always Goes Up

While historically the stock market has yielded a positive return averaged out over the past century, the cost of bank and consumer loan interest is real. If you are ignoring the potential to take a short-term loan from your 401k while you max out your credit cards, remember the stock market isn’t guaranteed returns.

2. Tax Inefficiency

A lot of talking financial heads say that 401k loans are tax-inefficient because they must be repaid with after-tax dollars. Thus, acting as double taxation. But in reality, only the interest portion of the repayment is treated as double taxation which is usually a small amount.

3. Leaving Work With an Unpaid Loan

Taking any type of loan and getting fired isn’t an ideal situation. It can be even more stressful and difficult if it’s a loan you must back pay or get a letter from the IRS.

But, let’s say you take a plan loan and get fired. You will have to repay the loan in full or the balance will be considered a taxable distribution. This will result in a 10% federal tax penalty on the unpaid balance if you are under age 59½ years old.

While this is all true, here’s how it actually could play out:

At retirement or time of firing, a lot of people choose to take part of their 401k money as a taxable distribution, especially if they need cash quickly. Having an unpaid loan balance has nearly the same tax consequences of making this choice.

Most plans don’t actually require plan distributions at retirement or separation from service. You are usually given a grace period of 60 (or sometimes even 90 days) to arrange plan-loan repayment after moving on from your employer.

And if they want to avoid negative tax consequences, these individuals can use other sources to repay their 401k loans before taking a distribution. If they do this, the full plan balance can qualify for a tax-advantaged transfer or rollover.

If an unpaid loan balance is included in the participant’s taxable income and the loan is subsequently repaid, the 10% penalty does not apply.

Yes, slightly complicated, but don’t believe everything you hear with these loans. Make sure to do your own research!

Here are a few other common questions regarding these type of loans.

FAQs About Borrowing From 401k

Does every company allow 401k loans?

No, not every employer retirement plan will allow 401k loans. Make sure you contact them or check the guidelines to see if they allow them.

What is the maximum amount I can loan from a 401k?

The maximum amount you can borrow is $50,000 or 50% of your vested account balance. Whichever is less is what you can use for a loan. Remember, your vested account balance is the amount that belongs to you.

Here’s an example:

Sometimes you have to stay with your employer for a certain number of months before the employer contributions actually belong to you. The employer may also require a minimum loan amount of $1,000 but depends on your employer’s rules.

How long do I have to repay 401k loan?

Typically you will have five years to repay a 401k loan.

How are 401k loans repaid?

Like contributing to a 401k, your loan repayments are set up with automatic deductions from each of your paychecks. Terms can range in time frame, but the longest amount to repay your loan is sixty months (five years).

Some employers will do repayment plans each paycheck while others are structured as monthly payments. It’s important to note that although they are automatic deductions, the amount is after-tax dollars.

This is unlike the pre-tax ones that you normally fund a 401k with. Each statement will show your balance, credits to the loan, and remaining principal balance like a normal loan statement.

Can I contribute to my 401k with a 401k loan as well?

Some 401k plans do not allow you to contribute to the plan while you are making loan repayments. This depends on the details of your 401k provider, so make sure to double check if you can contribute. Otherwise, you might want to do some more research on a traditional or Roth IRA.

What happens if I lose my job with a 401k loan?

This is a tough scenario for sure. If you lose your job while you have an outstanding 401k loan, make sure you contact the 401k plan quickly. You may need to repay the balance fast as it could be categorized as an early distribution. This would add a 10% fee to your loan if classified as an early distribution.

Usually, you have 60 days to repay your loans, so make sure to not quit your job on a whim unless you are prepared to pay it off quickly. Note that about ten percent of all 401k loans go into default due to a job change, and not having enough money to pay off the loan.

What happens if I don’t pay back the balance in 60 days?

Don’t worry, you’re not going to jail. The IRS will classify your remaining balance (the amount you didn’t fully pay) as an early withdrawal. They will charge you a 10% penalty on that amount, and make you pay taxes as it’s considered an early distribution.

While it’s not the end of the world, it’s not the best situation to be in after losing your main source of income.

How do taxes work with a 401k loan?

At the time you take a 401k loan you do not pay taxes on the full amount received. However, if you don’t repay the loan on time, taxes and penalties can be enforced.

Can I take a 401k loan from an old employer’s 401k plan?

If you don’t work for the company where your 401k plan currently is, you can’t take a 401k loan. But if you switch employers you might have the option.

You may transfer a balance at a former employer to a new 401k plan. If your current employer plan does allow for 401k loans you can borrow with your new account.

What If I transferred my 401k to an IRA. Can I still get a 401k loan?

This happens a lot when people leave jobs and go to an employer without a 401k. But if you transferred your old 401k to an IRA, you can’t borrow from traditional IRA.

The Takeaway

There are some instances where it can be beneficial while others are a huge financial mistake. Plus, taking out a loan to repay debt can be dangerous, as your 401k assets are protected from creditors.

Ultimately, don’t make this type of decision on a whim. Do a lot of research and look at other options before you begin to start withdrawing money from your 401k. Check out one of the other options above to see if you can find a better solution.

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Borrowing From Your 401k? Here’s Everything You Need to Know published first on https://mysingaporepools.weebly.com/

[understandingchaoss]

Im confused how youre able to afford to travel so much? I would love to but I cant afford it. Do you have any tips ?

Hi anon! I actually have a list full of pointers!!

First of all, in the long run, I think the fact that I’m able to travel like I do, comes down to the fact that my motivation is Europe. I HAVE to go. There’s something inside of me that can’t stay here and keep seeing the same stuff over and over again. Europe looks NOTHING like the states, and the culture is what I absolutely love. So I think I just have an insane amount of motivation. As a result of that motivation, I feel as if I’ve made some fairly smart choices in order to continue saving like I do.

Second of all, there are two ways to go about being able to afford traveling. There are ways to save in order to be able to travel, and there are ways to save while you’re traveling. 

In terms of what to do to prepare, here’s what I have done:

Join a credit union. Not only do they give you insanely low interest rates when your credit might not be the best, but they give you great deals on houses (when the time comes), cars, and personal loans. I joined mine when I was 18 and will be a lifetime member.

Build your credit. If you have a vehicle that you don’t make payments on, but know the one you have is going to take a dump soon, this is super important. I built my credit for about 8 months before I purchased my car. I got a credit card through my credit union and just put all of my purchases on that instead of using my debit card or cash. However, do not do so if you think that having a credit card means you can spend whatever you want. That money has to get paid off somehow, and as long as you’re smart about it, you can pay it off every month and never pay any interest, thus, building your credit.

Don’t buy a brand new car. This is a terrible idea altogether. The car loses value the second you drive it off the lot. Most people will sign the papers in a heartbeat, except they just signed for a $28,000 car with a 20% interest rate. If you’re smart about it and purchase a good vehicle for a good price, your monthly payments could be as low as $100 a month.

Try to find a job that’s willing to pay you above minimum wage, even if it’s only 25 cents more; or find a job that will eventually give you raise, such as an annual. My job is basically the reason I am able to afford what I do. I serve tables in California, which is not one of the states that is allowed to pay servers as low as $2.00 an hour. California requires tipped positions to be paid at least minimum wage. So I make $10.50 an hour plus my tips, which averages me out to about $18.00-$19.00 an hour. My job also does annual raises and Christmas bonuses, which help a lot. As much as serving tables kind of sucks sometimes, the money is fantastic, and I highly suggest it for anyone in college trying to save money to travel. 

Don’t have your savings account linked to your checking account. Banks couldn’t have made things any easier to not save money. Having the two linked if you’re not the best with money, is an awful idea. When I made the decision to travel, I wanted to spend as little as possible, but it was hard when all I had to do was transfer something from my savings to my checking when I needed more money. I opened up a savings account with a completely different bank. The only way I can take money out, is to go in and take it out, and then I would have to drive another 15 minutes to my other bank just to put it in. You’re more likely to save money when you make things difficult for yourself to actually spend money.

Have an emergency savings account. Life happens, and sometimes you’re short on money, but your car breaks down. Even if you have to only put $5.00 away every month, it all adds up. Make it a completely separate account from everything else, and pretend the money doesn’t exist. 

Get yourself a flyer miles credit card. I only suggest doing this once you’ve had a normal rewards credit card and are comfortable opening another credit account. But boy, does it come in handy! I now use my credit card from my credit union as my emergency card. I hardly use it anymore. I put any and all purchases I make on my miles card. If you’re planning on traveling all over, I suggest a Discover It miles card, or a Capital One Venture card. Discover gives you a mile and a half for each dollar you spend, and Capital One gives you two miles for each dollar you spend. Neither limit you to just one airline, like an Alaskan miles card would, as an example. I will be using my miles to buy my ticket to Alaska this summer, and won’t pay hardly anything out of pocket. I racked up the miles with my every day purchases like groceries, eating out here and there, and gas.

Try to put away a set amount into savings each month, or every pay period. This is not something I particularly do, just because living off of tips isn’t always predictable. I pretty much just look at what I made for the week, divide everything up according to which bills need to be paid, and put the rest in savings. But for some people, doing a set amount can help a lot. Most employers that do direct deposit, will do it for several accounts, so you can even have a set amount from each paycheck go straight into your savings.

In terms of how to save while you travel, here’s what I have found:

Find a cheap airline. Sometimes I feel like this is just a given, but some people will legitimately spend thousands of dollars on an international ticket. I have found that the cheapest airline flying to Europe during most times of the year, is Norwegian Air. Every now and then you can find a cheaper ticket through Virgin Airways. Here’s why I would still pay a little extra for Norwegian. These planes are absolutely enormous because the flights are so long. The sucker is called the Dream Liner for a reason. I have so much leg room, I feel like I’m in first class. Their meals are actual meals served hot, whereas most airlines serve sandwiches, or hot food that looks more like plastic. For not much extra, you can get a ticket one step up that includes meals, choosing your seats, and includes your bags. I like Norwegian because they fly straight from California to Europe. The curvature of the earth matters, and each time you touch down and take off, you add more flight time. I always fly to Poland as my destination, so I stop in Norway, and then go to Poland. It’s a LONG flight if you go from the west coast, but it’s worth it. 

Fly during the fall and winter, and avoid holidays. Sometimes this is inevitable. But if your schedule is pretty open, fly during the ‘off’ season. Prices tend to go down in price to most places around the end of September, shoot up for Thanksgiving week, then go back down until the week of Christmas. During Christmas, they shoot back up, but as soon as New Year’s is over, they go back down. Prices don’t usually go back up in price until about May. Summer is when everyone wants to do their traveling, thus tickets are most expensive so airlines can make money. But for example, I flew to Iceland round trip from California in the middle of January for less than $400. No one wants to go to Iceland in the dead of winter, so prices are cheaper. You could pay around $1,000 just to go to the same place, but during the summer. Prices to the rest of Europe work the same way.

Use public transportation. I always travel with my best friend, Emily. We both refuse to use taxi’s because that’s how men figure out where you’re staying, and that’s like, asking to get abducted. Emily is fantastic with directions and public transportation, so she’s always in charge of that. Just about any city you go to will have public transportation, because Europe thinks about the important things. Tickets to use the buses, trams, or trains are almost always super cheap. All of the major cities I’ve been to - Prague, Budapest, London, Salzburg, Zagreb - all have great systems and good prices. Sometimes you can buy a bulk amount of tickets all at once, instead of buying individual tickets each time you go from one place to the next. It’s cheaper to buy in bulk, so if they offer it, use it.

Stay in Airbnb’s, not hostels or hotels. Hotels are pointless because you can’t cook. Wasted money eating out all three meals right there. Hostels are pointless unless you plan to travel with a large group, otherwise you usually have to share amenities, and not all of them have kitchens. Airbnb’s are super cheap for just about any city or town. They are fully furnished apartments or houses, so you can cook. Not to mention, some of them are so cute and I want to cry when I sometimes find the cutest one for a good price.

If you’re planning on traveling within several countries close to each other geographically, don’t fly. Once you’re in Europe, flying from place to place is super cheap. But if you’re visiting small countries that are all close to each other, look into a rail pass. Emily and I bought two first class passes for just under $1,000. They got us from Czech to Austria, to Hungary, then to Croatia. We bought them through Eurail and it was a great deal. We could hop on any train in each country as long as it was within the countries on our itinerary, and got us from one country to the next when it was time to move on. It ended up being cheaper to do it by train than to fly from place to place. Plus, you get to see the backcountry of everything, and it’s so worth it.

Make friends as you go. Meet people. Get to know the culture. Make friends. Most European cultures are all super welcoming. The more people you meet and stay in contact with during your time at home, the more likely you are to have either a cheap, or free place to stay the next time you go back. I could basically go anywhere in Poland at this point and not have to pay for a place to stay anywhere.

Avoid using cash. Economies are constantly changing. Currencies gain and lose value overnight. Take cash with you, and exchange a little just so that you can come back with some of it. I love to collect all the different currencies. But for the most part, avoid exchanging cash. It loses value, because places gain commission off of it, even if their windows say 0% commission. Research exchange rates of each place you’re going to just in case you need to exchange. All exchanges places have different rates, find the best one. If you plan to use cash for everything, withdraw it from an ATM. Try to stick to ones that are inside of banks, because you’re much less likely to use one that has a scanner in order to steal your information. But all in all, use a credit card. Debit cards aren’t safe to use internationally. If for some reason your information gets stolen, the second the money is used by someone else from your account, your bank likely won’t be able to get the money back. Credit cards are great because if your information gets stolen, the company or credit union is almost always able to fix the problem and you won’t owe the money someone else spent. 

This is all I can think of as of right now, and I think I pretty much included everything. Feel free to ask more questions if you need to, and I can give you answers if I have them! Traveling is actually so cheap if you go about it in the right ways. Good luck!!

[kuwaiti-kid]

You Need a Budget Detailed Review

Managing your income and how you spend money will give you an accurate financial picture.

It isn’t about making us feel guilty about how we spend money. It is about being aware of what is going on so we can pursue our long-term goals.

Creating an accurate, updated budget is challenging. You probably have multiple accounts to track, and if you are married, you have various people spending and earning money. If you don’t follow your spending, you risk going into credit card debt or over-drafting your checking account.

I’ve done reasonably well managing our budget over the years. I’ve tried different budgeting techniques over the years and found You Need a Budget (YNAB) to be the ultimate budgeting tool.

 YNAB vs. a Manual Budget

Ever since I graduated high school, I’ve been tracking my income and expenses. I would use a google spreadsheet to know about when bills were due and to figure out how much money is available.

But this manual approach had downsides.

Managing a spreadsheet was time-consuming.

When I got married, it became even harder to manage our monthly budget.

Even when the spreadsheet was updated, it was hard to track precisely how much we were spending on different budget categories.

Managing multiple spending accounts (checking and credit cards) made things more complicated.

Going into debt for day to day purchases on food, gas, etc. happened more frequently, as the details of our budget were hard to follow.

Mistakes are common and sometimes can be costly (credit card debt, over-drafting your checking account, missing a payment, etc.)

If you have a manual system that works for you, great! But every manual approach I tried was time-consuming and challenging to maintain.

At one, I tried Dave Ramsey’s envelope system. But carrying cash is annoying. Plus, you have the risk of losing real money (and finding 20’s in the laundry). I like the concept Dave teaches about spending cash, but I prefer using YNAB to spend income through credit cards. It is easier to manage and track, and you get credit card rewards.

Dynamic Budget

Eventually, I switched to using YNAB in 2014 to manage our budget. It changed our finances dramatically. We started using YNAB exclusively and haven’t changed budgeting methods since.

The main things I love about the YNAB software:

It pulls in transactions from all of your accounts. So your budget becomes an accurate and updated reflection of your spending.

Overspending in one category is easier to manage since you can transfer funds from other categories to balance the budget.

Avoiding and paying off debt becomes more natural. If you do have revolving credit card balances, you can view how much you are paying down each month.

Pending transactions, such as checks or bills that are coming in but have not settled, can be accounted for immediately.

When overspending a category, the category balance becomes red and noticeable. You can then transfer funds from other categories to avoid debt (this is optional but recommended).

The YNAB mobile app makes it simple to view your budget on the go.

Being able to see the age of your money is helpful. You can see what part of your money is currently available to spend in your budget. We’ll get into this in more detail below, but getting a month ahead with your monthly budget makes budgeting massively easier.

Their online documentation is excellent for answering questions and viewing tips on how to use their software.

I can open the mobile app or website and know exactly how much funds are available in each category at any point. It now only takes me about 10-15 minutes to update our budget.

YNAB Method

When you go to the YNAB website, you will see content relating to the YNAB budgeting method. In addition to the software itself, implementing the YNAB method changed our finances forever.

Below are the core steps of the YNAB method:

Give each dollar a job: The idea is that every dollar we bring in needs to have a purpose: paying for food, gas, medical bills, debt, utilities, savings, etc. When you define what to do with 100% of your income, you prioritize precisely how you spend and save your money. This prioritization is vital in telling your money what you want to do with it, instead of having your unorganized spending waste money.

Budget Larger Purchases: Instead of being surprised at having to deal with larger purchases that come up regularly (insurance, medical bills, holidays), we should set aside money every month that becomes available when we need it. Being able to save for large purchases takes a massive amount of stress out of budgeting and helps prevent overspending over the long-term.

Roll with the punches: When it comes time to budget, having flexibility in how to spend your income will allow you to roll with life as it happens. Sometimes you might want to increase or decrease spending in specific categories. This budgeting method makes your budget a living organism that will shift over time. Instead of trying to fit your income into a pre-defined peg every month, you decide how you want to use your money.

Age your money: By spending money in the current month that you earned last month, you free up boatloads of stress and headache. Not only does it add a bit of safety cushion to your regular budget (in addition to your emergency fund), but you no longer have to time monthly expenses with paychecks. This idea is a lifesaver! It takes time to reach this goal, but this will exponentially simplify your life and provide an extra layer of margin in your finances.

How I use You Need a Budget

There are a few options you have on how you use YNAB. I’ve decided to connect all of our spending and savings accounts that we use regularly. These accounts include our main checking account where our income deposits, and our credit card that we use to make most of our purchases.

I highly recommend you link up all accounts that you use for spending and savings. That way, you make sure you create budget categories for all expenses. With that said, I have not linked up to our retirement and investment account, since I use Personal Capital for tracking those accounts.

Get One Month Ahead

The way we handle income for our YNAB monthly budget is the following:

Paycheck on the 15th: This income ends up getting budgeted for the following month.

Paycheck on the 1st: This income gets used in the current month’s budget.

That way, by the 1st of the month, we have 100% of the income we will spend for the month and do not need to time our expenses based on paychecks (just as long as they don’t happen before the 1st). This method saves a massive amount of time and headache and makes budgeting a breeze.

Below are a few YNAB tips and tricks I have implemented in streamlining our monthly budget.

Rainy Day Fund

This account is not to be confused with our primary emergency fund. We “will” use this account for unexpected expenses or category overages that are not normal (once we get out of debt and fill up our long-term emergency fund). Maybe we have an unexpected car repair that requires more cash than we have in our car maintenance budget. Or one month during the holidays we may need more money to handle going out to eat more. This fund is an extra layer of cushion to handle things that require additional cash, but don’t justify dipping into our long-term emergency fund.

We found that not having this account makes it hard to handle unexpected non-emergency situations that seem to pop up every few months, no matter how hard we try to plan our budget category amounts. Maybe excessive medical bills because one of our children has to go to the walk-in. Or anything that ends up extending our regular budget.

Anything excess in this account will either get thrown into other categories, invested, or put into our long-term emergency fund at the beginning of the next month.

Vacations

When saving for a vacation or trip, we create a budget category that we use to plan how much we want to spend on the trip. Creating budget categories for holidays does a few things:

It helps us figure out how much we need to save each month to pay for the vacation with cash.

Once we go on vacation, we spend money out of this category and get an accurate reflection on how much we have left during the trip.

For more extended trips, I’ll create multiple categories to organize specific budgets for the vacation. Which usually includes food, transportation, and entertainment budget categories specific to the trip. We took a substantial five-figure vacation last year to Disney World and came under budget because we spent time figuring out how much we wanted to spend and save for the trip.

Larger Purchases

Similar to vacations, YNAB makes it simple to save for larger purchases. One feature I have not tapped into is the “Category Goals” feature. You can set a goal to collect an amount by a specific date or set a monthly savings goal. Eventually, I want to take an in-depth look at the goals feature since it seems valuable.

Emergency Fund

Once we get debt free towards the end of this month, we will save money for our long-term emergency fund. This cash will go into a high-yield online savings account. I’m currently conflicted whether to have YNAB track this in a category, as I don’t want to have the temptation to dip into that account. But I also want to track how much money is in our emergency fund.

What I’m currently leaning towards is having an Emergency Fund category and putting it under a “Long-Term Savings” parent category that isn’t mixed in with my other categories (in other words, I would put it at the bottom of the budget). That way, I can get an accurate picture of the age of our money and how that balance changes over time. But I keep on going back and forth on whether I want to track our emergency fund in YNAB.

One reason to track your emergency fund in YNAB is to feel the emotional security of that fund while you work on your budget. It also makes it easy to immediately see if suspicious activity happens in the account (which hopefully never happens), as those transactions will automatically get pulled in. These two points are what is making me lean towards tracking our emergency fund in YNAB.

Budget Categories

We’ve tried to categorize things in a way that makes it simple for managing our budget. We group most things that we would get at a grocery store (Costco, Albertsons, Wal-Mart, etc.) into one category called “Groceries.” We have all utilities coming out of one budget category. Our media type of subscriptions like Netflix and Amazon Prime come out of the Media category.

We also have budget categories for things that we know will come up. These categories include medical, gifts (birthday parties seem to come up every month), fuel, auto maintenance, etc. The more time you spend creating specific categories, the more likely your budget will account for 98% of your usual expenses. The good news is when creating a new YNAB account, their default categories provide an excellent place to start.

You have full flexibility in creating as many budget categories as you want, and you can group them into top-level categories to organize your budget.

Once you start using YNAB regularly, it will pre-fill specific categories as transactions come in. There are some stores where you will spend money on different budget categories that will require sorting out, but in most cases, this should be a matter of clicking the “approve” button for each transaction that comes in.

As I mentioned above, they also have category goals that you should explore for categories you use for saving money.

Signing up with YNAB and Costs

YNAB has a free 34-day trial (no credit card required) that will let you give it a shot before committing. After the trial ends, it is $6.99/mo.

The signup process for YNAB is simple, but it will take time to add your spending and savings accounts. You don’t want to get lazy during this step. Sitting down and getting everything configured right away will make adjusting to YNAB easier.

Here is the play-by-play to get things set up:

Create a. You Need a Budget account and log in.

Once you are logged in, it will first ask you some questions. Do you have any primary goals you are shooting for (debt payoff, large purchases, etc.), and who plans on using your budget (solo or with a partner)? Complete this process.

You will then see your budget.

They have pre-entered categories that you can tweak. I suggest modifying these categories and organizing your budget right away. You can make adjustments as you use their software.

Click the “Add Account” button on the left. You can specify a linked or unlinked account. I suggest linking up all of your spending and savings accounts so the transactions get automatically imported. If you go with the unlinked option, you can manually import your transactions (not recommended, but it is an option). I’ve imported everything except our investment and retirement accounts.

If you generally have a consistent amount of income coming in every month, you could add some “testing income transactions” that you can use to determine the amounts in your budget categories. You will want to delete these testing transactions, so you don’t use the income you don’t have yet. I found this useful in helping to plan how to categorize our budget. Check out the YNAB documentation in how they recommend handling each paycheck.

Iron out how much you want to budget in each category.

If you are living paycheck-to-paycheck, you may want to organize your categories in when you get paid to make budget management simpler in the beginning. The recommended path they suggest is to create your budget for each paycheck and assign the correct budget category amounts at that stage. I found that getting a month ahead of your budget makes planning the full month expenses more comfortable to manage.

As transactions get imported into your account, you assign them a specific budget item. If a category has excess funds leftover in a month, it will transfer to the next month and won’t “magically” disappear. Having balances transfer month to month in each category is a massive benefit to their system in saving money.

If you have revolving credit card payments, the balances will be red in YNAB, and you can see how these balances shrink (hopefully) every month. When you budget money to a credit card account, you can quickly see how much you can pay right now towards that credit card, based on your budget.

Using YNAB becomes a ton more relaxed if you can get a month ahead of your budget (where the income you bring in this month goes towards next month). That way, you have 100% of the cash for the whole month on the first of the month. That way, you don’t have to time paychecks for parts of your budget.

Here is a great video walkthrough if you want a more visual idea in the full YNAB set up process:

  Final Thoughts

As long as you have some way of tracking your income and expenses, and you spend less money than you make, I’m not going to give you flack.

But there are budgeting techniques that are easier to manage and provide additional benefits to pursue your long-term budget goals.

You Need a Budget provides the details I am looking for in managing our budget, and it saves us time and energy. Some weeks I am in there every other day, keeping an eye on how the month is playing out. Other times I log in once per week to make sure things are on track. In either case, I know YNAB is accurately tracking my budget.

I anticipate when we fully fund our emergency fund, managing our budget will become easier as we will focus on investing and growing our money. YNAB makes budgeting a breeze, and the monthly/yearly fee is well worth the cost.

Have you used YNAB? How do you manage your monthly budget?</strong

The post You Need a Budget Detailed Review appeared first on Your Money Geek.

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