#pre-finished 5/8 thick

[uscteacher]

Library Vancouver Example of a huge trendy open concept light wood floor family room library design with a standard fireplace, a tile fireplace and a concealed tv

[vigilantedelmaule]

Contemporary Family Room Huge modern open concept family room library image with a tile fireplace, a traditional fireplace, and a hidden television

[crexalbo]

Extremely Strong Shower Bench

I've gotten feedback from the community asking me to share my plans, so here it is. If you want to build your own shower bench, this is how you do it. Make sure to ask a thinno for help, this will not be easy to do!

This is an extremely strong shower bench with a 1000+lb capacity. The floor under you will fail before the bench does! This shower bench is designed to remove you from the shower and basically have you sit on the ledge. You will need a couple feet of clearance away from your tub's ledge for it to work.

The top of my tub's ledge is about 1' 3⅜" up from the ground. If yours is taller/shorter by more than ¼" or so, you will need to make some adjustments to measurements down below.

This is a photo of the materials I used to make this build. I got everything I needed at my local hardware store. My build wasn't perfect though. I would suggest you learn from my mistakes and acquire a slightly different material list though:

1x 2'×4' plywood sheet. Get something pre-sanded and rated for outdoor use. I recommend ¾" thick.

2x 8' 2×4s. Most any wood type will work, so get what you like most. I just got some normal 2×4s and made sure they looked pretty. If you don't want to bother with staining or weatherproofing the structure of your bench, get pressure-treated 2×4s.

4x 2' ½"×½" square dowel.

4x Simpson Strong-Tie RTC2Z. Get the black-powder-coated ones if you can.

2x Simpson Strong-Tie LUS24Z. These will be used for the cross beam.

4x Simpson Strong-Tie FB24Z. These will be the feet.

1x Simpson Strong-Drive SD9112R100 #9×1½" 100ct Connector Screws. You won't use the whole box. It comes with a bit.

4x 3" common nails.

32x 1½" common nails.

35x 1" brad/finish nails.

200-220 grit sandpaper.

Oil-based high-gloss polyurethane.

Small dense-foam roller & roller pan.

If you're applying stain, oil stain & staining brush for oil stain.

Liquid rubber. Get something that will provide grip.

Rubber-foam weather stripping. The thicker and wider, the better. I got 20' of 1¼"×7⁄16" and it worked great for me.

4x paper clips, hair ties, or something to hang the feet from.

A plastic tarp, thickness is more important than size.

As for tools, you really only need two things:

Hammer

Drill, ratchet, or socket screwdriver

OPTIONAL: File or knife

I also highly recommend some PPE. Get some cheap/disposable cleaning gloves, a mask of some type, hair ties for your hair, and an old change of clothes.

If you don't have access to a table saw at home, *don't leave the store yet!* You need to cut your wood at the store. Many home improvement stores will cut your lumber for you, either for free or for a low price.

Ask an employee to cut the two 2×4s like this:

2×4 #1: 38", 38", 17"

2×4 #2: 33½", 33½", 13", 13"

NOTE: If your tub ledge was taller/shorter than mine, then for every 1" difference, lengthen/shorten each 33½" cut by TWO inches.

Then ask them to cut two dowels down to 20½", and two down to 24".

You should also ask them to take 6" off the short side of the plywood, so it's 2'×3½' instead of 2'×4'.

You're not ready to leave yet! You need to make two more cuts, and the store employees will not help you with these. Many home improvement stores will have a DIY handsaw table where you can cut moulding down to length. You'll need to use this to make the last two cuts yourself.

You need to make an ANGLED cut into the 33½" boards. Lay the first 33½" board down flat as shown. On the edge closest to you, mark a point 1' 5⅛" away from the left end of the board. Then on the edge farthest from you, mark a point 1' 5¼" away from the same left end of the board. Position your saw across both points, and cut through the board. You may need to roll the board over to finish the cut.

NOTE: If your tub ledge was taller/shorter than mine, then for every 1" of difference, add/remove 1" from the 1' 5⅛" / 1' 5¼" measurements above.

For the second board, *do not measure!* It is more important that the cuts in the boards be identical than it is for any one cut to have exact dimensions. Lay the second board down, then set one of the cut pieces on top so the ends of the two boards are aligned, then use the existing angle in the cut piece to start the cut in the second board.

When you are done, you will have four boards, two slightly taller than the others, with the exact same angle cut in all of them. In the above photo, the boards are resting on their angled ends. These pieces will be your long and short legs.

NOW you can bring everything home.

First, lay down your tarp somewhere. Ideally you'll have access to a 5'×10' flat area outside.

Then you need to sand *everything* (except the big faces of the plywood, and the pressure-treated wood if you went that route). Pay special attention to the corners and cuts in the wood.

Now you need to attach the square dowels to the outside of the plywood board. Choose a face of the board to be the "up" face, the one you'll sit on. Put the 24" dowels on top, right along the short edges. Choose a long edge to be the back, and squeeze the two shorter dowels in along it between the side dowels. Nail everything down with the finish nails.

Next is staining, if you chose to stain. Apply according to the directions on the tin. You will likely have to do multiple coats.

Now the truly hard part, applying polyeurethane. I recommend using the foam roller for this and applying many coats. You can prop up the plywood sheet using the 2×4s if you like so you can get all the way around the edges in one pass. You'll still need to flip it over and do three more passes when done with the top, so you can protect the underside from warping.

While waiting for your polyethylene to dry, you may as well make the rubber feet. Grab your four FB24Zs and tie something through one of the holes in the end. Open your can of liquid rubber and follow the instructions to fully submerge each one before leaving it out to dry. One coat should be enough. Once dry, try to remove excess rubber from the inside using a file or knife.

When everything's had a good long dry (at least a day after final coat), it's time for assembly.

Grab your two 38" boards, your two 13" boards, all four of your legs, and your four RTC2Zs — everything except what's highlighted red in the first photo above. Set the 38" boards down on their narrow side along the long edges of the board, and the 13" boards down on their narrow side along the short edges of the board. Bring them together to form a rectangle, then set the RTC2Zs upside-down on the corners. Each RTC2Z has an L-shaped hole in its bottom; the top/bottom of each L-shaped hole will be filled by the ends of the 38" boards, while the center and left/right of each hole will be filled by the legs. The ends of each 38" board will butt against the wide side of the legs, while the ends of each 13" board will butt against the narrow side of the legs. Now make sure everything is pressed firmly together as you use the Strong-Drive screws to attach the RTC2Zs to the 38" & 13" boards. For each corner, four screws go into the 38" board and two screws go into the 13" board. *DO NOT ATTACH THE LEGS YET!* The legs are just here for spacing right now. Remove the legs when everything is attached.

Grab your 17" board and your LUS24Zs. The 17" board should squeeze in nicely right in the middle, turning your blocky 0 into a blocky 8. Straighten out your LUS24Zs if needed (mine were bowed outwards too much), set them down over the ends of the 17" board, and use 4 screws each to attach them to the sides of the 38" boards. Now grab your long 3" nails and use two on each LUS24Z, installing them at a 45° angle into the remaining holes. They'll nail at an angle into the 17" board and go straight through into the 38" board.

Flip everything over such that the plywood board is now resting good-side-up on top of the mostly-complete frame, with the whole thing resting on the rounded bottoms of the RTC2Zs. Center the frame between the left and right sides of the plywood (should be ½" overhang on each side); let the plywood's back overhang ½" off the back of the frame, and its front overhang 3½" off the front. Now use the 1½" common nails to nail in the plywood into the frame. I used four lines of nails, one for each outer board; measurements are in the second photo above.

OPTIONAL: Apply a final polyurethane coat over the nail heads. This will need a day or two to dry.

Screw the feet into the ends of the legs. See the third photo above for a reference. Try to make the feet as straight and snug as you can get them.

Insert the legs into the holes left from step 1. The short legs go in on the front side, and the long legs go in on the back side. You should have a bench that tilts slightly forward, to allow for water to drain into the tub. Use some sort of material as a spacer as necessary to adjust each leg to level out the bench. Don't be afraid to introduce gaps between the legs and the plywood; the metal connectors are what hold the weight. Once everything is nice and level, use six screws on each leg to attach then to the RTC2Zs.

Apply your rubber-foam stripping. I applied stripping all along the length of my tub's ledge AND along the underside of my bench.

And you're done! Your bench will look different than the photo above, I hadn't yet added the stripping, the wooden dowel siding, or the feet. And perhaps you chose a different stain color, or made your legs out of pressure-treated wood! In any case, this thing is built like a tank (made with actual home framing materials) and shouldn't break easily. I hope it serves you well!

[blitheringmcgonagall]

Thank you @abihastastybeans @msalexwp @uncertainwallflower and @soloorganaas ! I loved all your versions 🥰🥰🥰!!!

rules: share the first lines of ten of your most recent fanfics and tag ten people. if you have written less than ten, don’t be shy and share anyway💗💗

1. “Ah,” a pause. “How do you do, Evans?” From Snow Cherubs & Delayed Deer

Basically - pining Jily with Prongs making a hames of everything… one-shot

2. “Where were you on the night of the twenty- nineth of September…. Sir Grimmauld, I mean…” Remus cleared his throat. From A Little Risk

Remus Lupin Detective Inspector investigates a murder at the Duke & Duchess of Grimmauld’s manor. Lily Evans is a Private Investigator. Dr James Potter & the eldest son of the duke, Sirius Black, are suspects… who is the murderer, and is Snape my most horrible version? Wolfstar &Jily, multichapter, completed.

3. “The weirdo is following you, Lily,” Mary hisses under her breath, sounding mildly disgusted. From I’m Not in Love

Pining Jily idiots, one-shot

4. Sirius will never forget this day. From This Is The Way The World Ends

Remus Lupin’s lycanthropy catches up with him. Seriously angsty, made you cry etc. Wolfstar, multichapter, completed.

5. “I told him. I told Snivellus about the Whomping Willow, how to get past it,” Sirius’ voice a dull whisper as he turned away towards the window. From BLAME

A Marauders What If...?

What if James had been blamed for the Prank?

What if he got expelled at the end of Fifth Year?

What if there was never a Lily Evans and James Potter, Head Boy and Head Girl? If they parted enemies, if they never got together in their final year in Hogwarts? What if the marauders lost James? What then? Jily & Wolfstar, WIP

6. “Hi Moony!” Lily called from the sitting room, where she lay on the couch with her long legs tucked under herself. From Wedding Nerves

Lily, the night before her wedding - spent with the marauders. Marauders and Lily brotp

7. “Fuck!” Remus bit down hard on his lip to stop himself screaming with the pain. From Agony/Bliss

Remus is a lovestruck fool, pining after Sirius Black, unattainable, pitiful. Angst & then fluff, 2/2 chapters, completed.

8. The Summer holidays loomed over him, like a tsunami. From Boys Don’t Cry

There is silence as Remus looks at him. A suffocating stillness that is anything but calm. There is punishment and absence there, hanging between them, a hurt so thick he thinks he could slice it open. His chest aches with how hard he is pushing down the need to cry. He wishes Remus would yell at him, scream at him, pummel him senseless. He thinks there could be goodness trapped somewhere inside him, somewhere deeper than the need to bawl. He thinks if anyone could find it, it would be this lanky boy.

Angst & drama - aka the prank and why Sirius did what he did. 5/5 chapters, completed. Pre relationship Wolfstar & Jily

9. “Congrats, Potter!” From Tight Quidditch Uniforms & Other Distressing Things

“Come on, Evans, don’t be a coward,” Sirius Black’s grey eyes flashing, full of challenge.

“Look. I’m glad he’s happy, I’m not lying, alright? I just... I just wish I was the one making him happy. Satisfied?”

She sighed and poured herself another drink. She couldn’t believe she had just said it. Must be the alcohol.

“That’s my girl, a true Gryffindor,” Sirius said, his grey eyes alight now, twinkling dangerously.

“If you fucking say a word to him, I swear to you-“

Or

Sirius Black has to Do Things to make Jily happen...

(Jily, Sirius is the best wingman, fluff 2/2 finished)

10. “Hold still for a minute!” From Wildflowers

Jily fluff, wildflower garlands, sweetness but then… Jily, fluff & angst, one-shot

Tagging if you want to: @mollymarymarie @theresthesnitch @mppmaraudergirl @engie-ivy @steelycunt @jennandblitz @stonecoldhedwig @midnightelite @mabeltothknows @startanewdream @maraudersftw @the-dream-team @squintclover @wearingaberetinparis @therealrjlupin @dizzy--bird @enbysiriusblack @aqua-myosotis and anyone else who wants to!!

[kscosplaycatalog]

No. 17 - 2012

Character: Erza Scarlet (Armorless ver.)  Series: Fairy Tail by Mashima Hiro

Cosplayer Credits: - Natsu : My brother - Gray : Jaiden - Lucy : Kirky

Photog Credits: - Axel - David Ho - Nikki Smith Photography

==========

This is genuinely one of my absolute favorite costumes, and one of the ones I'm still so proud of today!

Like Shiki, I decided to make this particular version of Erza's because I saw an opportunity to make something I'd always wanted to make: a hakama! Does she actually wear a hakama? Not really, but who cares?! 

==========

My wig is from Epic Cosplay Wigs. The top is two parts. The first was made from white spandex and is essentially a tube top. I then cover it with drug-store gauze that sticks to itself once it's in place. The bottom, which you can't really see, is made from the same white spandex as the top. I made a pattern from a pair of tights I already had only it goes down to just before my knees.

The hakama is made from red denim-like cotton. I used Folkwear pattern 151, Hakama and Kataginu. I used appliqué (HeatnBond Lite) for the flames at the bottom; the fabrics were similar to the red. For my back board, I fused some spare red to a few pieces of 16th of an inch-thick piece of interfacing. It is washable this way but still stiff as a board and bendable like professional hakama.

I originally wanted to do the tattoo with Hollywood Ink Henna pens and a stencil, but when we got to the convention Friday, we saw they had temporary tattoos in all of the colors we needed and we figured that'd be easier and faster. Plus, most of us were wearing things the next day that would've shown the guildmark so we didn't want them to clash. I later bought actual temp tattoo pens from Stargazers.

I made Benizakura to go with this costume in 2017. It is made of 1/4 plywood for the core blade and hilt. The tsuba (guard) is made of 3/4 plywood that I sanded down to about 5/16 of an inch. I also sanded the hilt pieces from 1/4 to about 1/8 so the hilt came to 1/2 an inch. I used thin foam to finish the designs: the over-layer on the tsuba, the swirls on the hilt, and the pummel. Lastly, the tassel is made out of actual tassel, three wooden craft beads painted red, and screw in loop painted gold. The tassel was beaded and then, after strung through the loop, glue into the top bead.

And speaking of late add-ons... I also didn't have the time to make her earrings but I did eventually, so look out for them in some of these shots. They are made out of a half-inch square acrylic rod that I sanded down using a grinder wheel. A friend carefully drilled a small hole for the wire that I twisted, covered with a bead, and attached to a clamp earring, since I don't have pierced ears. Everything was spray painted to match.

Now my brother's costume was also a lot of fun to make. Aside from his height, he really does have a lot in common with Natsu, so it was a lot of fun to be these two. We got the wig from Fantasy Sheep on eBay; came pre-styled.

The scarf was made out of white fleece. Essentially, I made a pillowcase-like piece, inserted a thin layer of polyfoam, sewed the fringes between the "pillowcase"'s sides as it was shut, and sewed the different sections with black thread. I'm very proud of it because it bulges up and sections off like the references.

I used dark navy blue broadcloth for the front fabric and I insisted it should be reversable as per the Tenroujima Arc, I used grey broadcloth as the lining fabric. The trim is gold poly-cotton. I modified a simple shirt pattern I already had as the vest was not very complicated. We actually bought both the belt buckle and interchangeable belt from PiercingPros on Amazon.

Same fabric and idea as the vest, for the "skirt." I measured his waist, marking the middle, and then halving that measurement to add to it to get the bottom measurement, lining up the middles. (In case that was confusing, here's a formula: W = waist measurement; B = Bottom measurement; W + (W/2) = B) It connects at the top, under the belt with hook-n-eye clasps.

I modified the pants pattern from Kouma. I used white broadcloth held up with an elastic waistband. The calf ties are extra navy broadcloth fashioned like trim after bunching the ends of the pants and have hook and eye clasps on the inside seam. The knots are made separately and then sewn into place They were actually made by my friend Kirky.

==========

Erza: Cost: $60 Time: 16 hrs

Natsu: Cost: $60 Time: 10 hrs

==========

This costume has won the following award: - Best Anime Group @ Tate's NOT at ComicCon in 2012

[somediyprojects]

DIY Salvaged Spool Ottoman

Project by Shelly:

i know ottomans aren’t the most indispensable piece of furniture in the house, but is it criminal to say they bring me the most joy? i think upholstery maven shelly (aka ModHomeEcTeacher) would agree with me; she’s made a whole collection of smart looking ottomans using a range of found fabrics and materials. i am so excited to follow her instructions and craft an adorable plaid ottoman of my very own, just in time to welcome fall. click here to see more of shelly’s amazing work, including her tutorials on everything from upholstering with rugs to aligning atomic legs. thanks, shelly! –kate

When Lowes stopped selling the pre-cut wood circles I used to construct my ottoman frames, it was a dark day. I soon discovered that cutting perfect circles with a hand-held jigsaw wasn’t easy, or even really possible. Weeks later, while roaming the store searching for an alternative, I discovered the empty electrical spools that are routinely discarded. Two perfectly cut round pieces of 5/8” plywood with a removable cardboard cylinder in the middle? Now we’re talking. With a tiny bit of carpentry, I came up with a way to easily re-work these into frames for my upholstered ottomans. I would label this as a mid-level DIY project that you could complete in a weekend. Once you get the hang of it, you these would make fantastic handmade gifts for friends and family. –Shelly

Materials:

-1 20” diameter empty electrical wire spool (hardware stores usually throw these out, so ask about picking them up instead) -8 pre cut 1”x 2”x 6” pieces of wood (a hardware store will cut these for you) -Wood glue -32 1 ¾” screws -A piece of foam (anywhere from 3” to 6” thick and at least ½” larger all around than the wood) -Spray adhesive (Elmers makes a spray adhesive available at the craft store) -Scrap fabric ( this to attach around the ottoman frame measuring about 8” x 65”. An option would be to use a bendable piece of cardboard) -1 ½ yard of cotton or dacron batting -1 ½ yard of 54” wide fabric -¾” yard of scrap fabric to cover the bottom of the finished ottoman -Thread and straight pins -Staples -4 screw on leg plates (hardware store) -4 fabulous ottoman legs (look around for good legs on cruddy, inexpensive Goodwill furniture)

Tools:

-Big marker -Drill -3/32” drill bit and a 3/8” drill bit -Electric knife -Electric stapler -Scissors -Measuring tape -Flat head screwdriver -Pliers (crescent or needle nose) -Sewing machine

Instructions:

Making the frame:

1. Take the spool apart and make a pattern by tracing the circle on a large piece of paper, adding ½” all around for the seam allowance. The pattern will be used for cutting out the foam, batting, fabric and a dustcover for the bottom. Lay aside.

2. Glue and screw 6-8 posts evenly around the outside edge of one wooden circle, then add the other piece of wood on top of the posts and attach. Be sure to keep the wood circles aligned.

Padding:

1. Use the staple gun to attach the long piece of cotton muslin around the outside edges of the top and bottom circles. Keep fabric pulled taut. The fabric serves to fill in the open spaces between the support posts. Cut off excess fabric. (Option: use bendable cardboard)

2. Trace the pattern onto the foam and cut the foam using the electric knife. Keep the knife blades perpendicular to the foam to get a crisp, even cut.

3. Use spray adhesive to glue the foam to the top of the ottoman frame.

4. Trace the pattern onto the batting, cut out. Also, cut out a long strip of batting equal to the total height of the ottoman, from the top of the foam to the bottom edge, plus two extra inches.

5. Pin the batting strip to the batting circle, starting 1” from the short end of the strip and ending 1” from the other end. Stitch in place.

6. Remove from under the sewing machine and stitch the open seam closed and go back and complete stitching that section of the band to the batting top.

7. Trim off the excess seam allowance, turn the batting covering right side out and pull it down on top of the ottoman frame.

8. Measure and mark the batting band (all the way around the covering ) so that it will be stapled evenly from the top seam to the bottom EDGE of the frame. Do not attach the batting to the underneath side of the wood. Attach it to the edge and cut off the excess batting.

Sewing and Upholstering:

1. To make the fabric covering, which is a bit like a snug slipcover, trace the pattern onto the fabric and cut it out.  You’ll need to cut a band of fabric 3” longer than the height of the ottoman and 5” wider than the circumference. If you need to stitch two pieces together to get a long enough piece for the band, split the circumference measurement in two and add 3 extra inches to each piece.

2. To prepare the fabric covering for stitching, fold one short end of the cut fabric band over 1” with wrong sides together.  With the right side of the band to the right side of the fabric circle, patterns matching, pin and begin stitching at the folded short edge all the way around to the other short end. Overlap the excess fabric 2” past the folded short end. Cut off any excess fabric beyond the 2”. Pin and stitch the overlapping fabric to the seam.

3. Turn the fabric covering right side out and topstitch the folded seam closed from the bottom of the band to the top seam.

4. Pull the fabric covering down over the dacron covered ottoman. Adjust the fabric pattern and straighten so the pattern or plaid is aligned.

5. Pull the fabric down firmly and staple in place evenly and snugly.

Upholstery Tip: It works best to start with one section and attach with a few staples, move to the opposite side and do the same. Then repeat for the other sides. Attach the fabric between the set staples by smoothing and easing in the fabric.

Attach Legs:

1. Measure and mark the bottom of the ottoman base for leg attachment.  Place the leg plates on the marks to make sure they are equidistant from each other. Mark the center hole of the plates. Use the 3/8”drill bit to drill out the center hole. You can also do this step prior to putting the fabric on (as shown below).

2. Cut out a dustcover from scrap fabric and attach it to the bottom of the ottoman by folding the edge under ½”.

3. Locate the drilled holes, line the leg plates up, screw the leg plates on using a Phillips head screwdriver or the drill.  Attach the legs to the plates.

VOILA!

[seamlessoverlays]

Discover the Advantages of Choosing X-Bond Microcement for Your Interior Projects

Microcement has become a popular choice for modern interior design. X-Bond Microcement is particularly noteworthy among the available options because of its durability, visual appeal, and versatility. This blog  will discuss the various advantages of using X-Bond Microcement for interior projects, which makes it a great choice for builders, designers, and homeowners alike.

What is X-Bond Microcement?

An innovative overlay product called X-Bond Microcement is created by combining natural stone with latex polymer. It can be placed over pre existing surfaces to create a seamless concrete appearance without requiring demolition. X-bond microcement works well for both residential and commercial applications because it can modify a variety of spaces, including joinery, floors, walls, and ceilings.

Key Advantages of X-Bond Microcement

1. Versatile Applications

Adaptability is one of X-Bond Microcement's most significant advantages. It can be placed on a variety of surfaces, such as:

Floors: Concrete, tiles, compressed sheeting.

Walls: Villaboard, Blueboard, and Plasterboard.

Joinery: laminate and MDF.

Homeowners can redesign without removing anything due to its flexibility, which saves time and cuts down on waste from traditional renovation method.

2. Seamless Aesthetic

Grout joints and lines are eliminated with a continuous layer of X-Bond Microcement coating. This results in a smooth, stylish look that is easy to maintain and clean. The smooth surface brings an elegant look to any space and is especially attractive for modern designer.

3. Minimal Thickness

X-Bond Microcement, applied at a thickness of about 2-3 mm, is a perfect choice for projects that require preserving existing floor heights or architectural features. Its thinness allows it to be applied over surfaces that already exist without changing door heights or floor level.

4. Durability and Flexibility

The durability of X-Bond Microcement is remarkable, even with its thin application. It contains latex polymers, which give buildings the ability to adapt to cracking as they settle or move. This enables them for use in high-traffic residential and commercial environments. Additionally, for more than 30 years of usage, X-Bond has shown no signs of delamination.

5. Waterproof Capabilities

When SEMCO Liquid Membrane™ and X-bond Microcement are paired together it provides excellent waterproofing capabilities. This makes it suitable for moist areas such as bathrooms, toilets, swimming pools and kitchens. In wet regions, homeowners can safely install X-Bond without fear of degradation or damage.

6. Quick Installation Process

X-Bond Microcement takes less time to install as compared to traditional standard flooring solutions. A 100 m² project normally takes approximately five days to finish. Because of its effectiveness, daily life is not disturbed during reconstruction.

7. Customizable Finishes

X-Bond Microcement is available in a variety of colors and finishes, homeowners can design their spaces according to their own unique personal choices. X-Bond offers plenty of design options, whether you want a matte or glossy finish or want to generate custom shade.

8. Eco-Friendly Option

If you're looking for an environmentally friendly option, X-Bond Microcement is the perfect choice. It not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of your space but also prioritizes sustainability, making it an excellent option for eco-conscious projects. By renovating existing surfaces rather than removing them, you reduce waste and the environmental effects caused by traditional renovation methods. This environmentally friendly strategy fits with the expanding trends in eco-conscious design.

Ideal Spaces for X-Bond Microcement

X-Bond Microcement can be used in a variety of ways in your house or place of business:

Residential Spaces: Perfect for bedrooms, kitchens, bathrooms, and gardens.

Commercial Spaces: Ideal for cafes, restaurants, shops, and offices.

Wet Areas: A great choice for steam rooms, swimming pools, baths, and showers.

Because of its versatility, interior designers frequently use it to achieve unified aesthetics in a variety of spaces.

Conclusion

Choosing X-Bond Microcement from Seamless Overlays for your interior projects offers various advantages that boost both functionality and beauty. Its adaptability allows it to be applied on various surfaces without the need for removal; its seamless finish enhances design while reducing maintenance; and its durability ensures longevity in high-traffic areas. If you're planning a remodeling or new construction project that demands a modern touch with minimal interruption, X-Bond Microcement could be the perfect choice. It distinguishes itself as a top option in modern home design with its variety of solutions and eco-friendly advantages. By choosing Seamless Overlays' X-Bond Microcement, you are not only making an investment in quality and innovation but can also turn your living spaces into extraordinary places that reflect your style.

[bestoutdoortabletenistable]

Essential Outdoor Table Tennis Tips for Beginners

How to Choose the Best Outdoor Table Tennis Table

Choosing the best outdoor table tennis table can be a daunting task given the numerous options available on the market. However, with a clear understanding of the key factors to consider, you can find a table that suits your needs and provides endless hours of fun. Here’s a comprehensive guide to help you make an informed decision.

Read more: Choosing the Right Table Tennis Paddle for Beginners

Key Factors to Consider When Buying an Outdoor Table Tenis Table

1. Weather Resistance

Outdoor table tennis tables must withstand various weather conditions, including rain, sun, and wind. Look for tables made from weather-resistant materials:

Tabletop Material: Common materials include aluminum composite, melamine, and resin laminate. These materials are resistant to warping, rusting, and fading.

Frame and Legs: Choose tables with powder-coated steel or aluminum frames to prevent rust and corrosion.

2. Tabletop Thickness

The thickness of the tabletop affects the ball's bounce quality. Outdoor tables typically have a thickness of 4 to 7 millimeters:

Thicker Tops (6-7mm): Provide a more consistent and higher quality bounce, ideal for serious players.

Thinner Tops (4-5mm): Suitable for recreational use, offering decent bounce at a more affordable price.

3. Portability and Storage

Consider how often you’ll need to move or store the table:

Wheels: Large, sturdy wheels make it easy to move the table across different surfaces.

Foldability: A table with a foldable design can be easily stored when not in use. Look for tables with a compact storage position and a locking mechanism for safety.

4. Stability and Durability

A stable and durable table ensures safe and enjoyable play:

Frame Construction: A sturdy frame with reinforced corners and legs provides better stability.

Adjustable Legs: Some tables come with adjustable legs to ensure a level playing surface, even on uneven ground.

5. Playing Surface

The playing surface should be smooth and provide consistent bounce:

Anti-Glare Coating: Reduces sun reflection and improves visibility, especially during sunny days.

Color: Dark-colored surfaces can minimize glare and enhance the ball's visibility.

6. Size and Space

Measure the space where you plan to place the table:

Standard Size: Regulation-size tables are 9 feet long, 5 feet wide, and 2.5 feet high.

Compact Size: If space is limited, consider a compact or midsize table that offers similar playability in a smaller footprint.

7. Assembly

Ease of assembly can vary greatly among different models:

Pre-Assembled: Some tables come pre-assembled or partially assembled, requiring minimal effort.

Assembly Time: Check customer reviews for insights into the assembly process and required time.

8. Budget

Outdoor table tennis tables range widely in price:

Entry-Level Tables: Priced around $200-$400, suitable for casual players.

Mid-Range Tables: Priced around $400-$800, offering better materials and features.

High-End Tables: Priced above $800, providing professional-level play and maximum durability.

Top Recommendations

Based on the factors mentioned above, here are a few top recommendations for outdoor table tennis tables:

Cornilleau 500M Crossover: Known for its exceptional durability, weatherproof 7mm resin laminate top, and adjustable legs for stability.

JOOLA Nova DX: Popular for its affordability and weather-resistant 6mm aluminum plastic composite surface.

STIGA XTR: Features an all-weather aluminum composite top and a quick-play design, making it highly durable and easy to assemble.

Butterfly TW24B Playback Rollaway: Offers robustness and ease of storage with a 5mm melamine top and sturdy steel legs.

Killerspin MyT7 BlackStorm: Combines style and functionality with a weatherproof aluminum-plastic blend top and a sleek black finish.

By considering these key factors and recommendations, you can confidently choose an outdoor table tennis table that will provide great playability, withstand the elements, and offer lasting enjoyment for you and your family.

[the-firebird69]

HOW TO LAUNCH 23’ PLYWOOD FISHING BOAT Part 8 BOAT LAUNCH, BOAT RAMP, BO...

This is a very nice build for a lake boat. Awesome Lego it is never ever going to be this hard with our kids this is an incredibly difficult way to do it and you don't have to however our son and daughter are quick to point out that the way they started the frame is a good idea we'll send templates you cut them out of MDO plywood this marine grade they only need wine 'cause they're thick and you would have this as a 23 foot vessel you'd only need 4 in the middle and the in the aft very end in the front will come together. And you would put those sections up like he had and you don't ever use that kind of plywood he wasted his time. You would cut in the corners where the plywood meets you cut in a To buy that would run full length and you can buy them long. And you would also cut in a keel which would be pretty big and you would have to make the keel or have it made and it's not easy some people can join it but it's not an easy thing to do some people can have it made but it is actually difficult they do not sell them like that and they're hard to make you can make a kill out of plywood and we probably end up doing that and you and you would form it and it would go up all the way to the top of the front of the bow and all the way up the back of the stern and you put like 5 pieces together that are three quarter with special glue all of them are pre cut pieces and you would bolt it together with stainless bolts And then you would set the whole thing into those vertical template pieces that are it would separate your hall and make it safer it would it would be hard to sink you actually connect it so you have compartment true compartmentalization and you glass over them of course. And people have built them like that it's a very nice way to build it you waterproof your keel before putting it in to the plywood by applying the first layer of fiberglass and you wrap it one way you wrap it the other way and you can overlap it you might have to cut your pieces a little so you put the keel in and you put the boating upside down and you have some lines running like three on each side that are where the plywood is going to be bolted in and you both both sides and the special bolts and the through bolts and they're flush on the outside. And use MDO for a boat like that 23 foot the sides on this need to go up a foot the width has to be a foot wider and we would make the boat about a foot longer but I like the cabin design it's just not how they build it it takes forever and her son says you build kind of a frame on the top of the plywood that you put in to separate your your compartments and you put it on the sides too in between the long runners and that makes your frame up and then you clip them together with a special clip. I guess we'd have to provide the hardware so that you can get it and it fits a little and you glue it and then glass over it so when it's upside down it's easy to build like that and you stick it up a little so you can get in there and you put a light in there. You would then so you have your keel in and those things upside down in the runners and you would then begin vaulting the hull. And you would both the hall like every foot and you have to offset it from the last one and you have to be careful to use the right type of wood. And you should pre drill it all and if it's not a lot of people use epoxy and our sun recommends it and we do too and you bolt it in and it's kind of a hardwood you wanna use like Redwood is perfect. If you can get a solid keel it's better but you have to piece it together most people would have no idea how and it's very hard. We wanna also mention splicing stuff does not work that great but this design is very nice and works very well and we've seen it and it's almost unbeatable so you put the hole together and you glass the bottom and you're tempted to put the finish coats on and you probably should and you have to put on some really nice cushions when you turn it over and you put the deck on and then you after it cures and then you put the and then you after it cures and then you put the rest of the assembly which you may kind of simple plywood and redwood and we recommend glassy on the inside now and then you paint it and then you put it lost and then you have a boat if you use a motor you get a used one of a car that's been wrecked or something you put a straight shaft and this size boat you can put two small motors and people do that and we recommend that there's some parts you have to get that are hard to get but you would have a boat that's worth a lot of money but it would probably be with the exclusion of the motors including the shafts and hardware that you need and propellers everything together all the plywood and adhesives and Etcetera you would probably be talking about $8000. That's a lot of boat so I guess we're gonna have to make a kit 'cause he wants to make one of those.

Thor Freya

dave used to this is nice

macs

Zues

we see it good. we do it ok and yes. we shall.  and fish and sleep onboard cook but not fish lol and yeh ok hahaah lo pew you there and hahah but funwe shall have fun. good.  what   a nice day and go to the seafood place.  mb a higher cabin yes and it can do it. and sides and cruise around and go to the islands here and fun.up the intercoastal and it i nice yo ushall see ok

ok and good fun we shall build it we you and i  and terrific.  i will try and my best.  you can help me most iht the engines and stuff the try roking me on yes good

Jen we are fun togtehr yes and yes a dream this is and good me again jen caa hahah lol ok good

ohhh

macs

and great mac adday

Thor Freya Sounds like good fun because it is and he is looking forward to it and she is too it's a lot of work it's headaches but it's not that much it's a lot less than other things you could build he's good with the wood like this too it's fairly good at joinery and that's what you have to be it doesn't require too much skill and it's not too much angles and they tell you what they are and to fill it with this epoxy glue and it really makes all the errors go away but there wouldn't be that many now tell you he's pretty good at this kind of thing assembling that kind of thing she likes it it would be a good time for them then the cars would come after. Yeah they're talking about that reimbursement and he put his reimbursements in before he was made general of everyone before the 15th of June he was an adjutant or something and he did a few things and they paid him for that even though it failed and it sounds familiar

Olympus Sounds like good fun because it is

They did pay him for that and it was more than reimbursements and it was for doing the job and yeah they wanted to implicate him and get him on board and they paid him for what he had paid for so he started a reimbursement thing and thought it'd be easier and it turned out to be a nightmare but yeah he did a battle or two but he took a big break and he took a big break and they believe they paid you for that battle no they paid him like $30,000 back then and now it's like $300,000 roughly about $400,000 because they're pounds and yeah they didn't pay that paid so I guess the attacks it goes Pennsylvania it's gonna look aboutmacas

[customweedbags]

Top 10 Custom Marijuana Packaging Ideas to Make Your Brand Stand Out

In the vibrant world of marijuana products, making your brand pop on the shelf is crucial. One surefire way to achieve this is through innovative, eye-catching packaging. Custom marijuana packaging not only keeps your product safe but also acts as a powerful marketing tool.

Here are the top 10 custom weed packaging ideas to ensure your brand gets the attention it deserves.

1. Eco-Friendly Packaging

Sustainability isn't just a buzzword—it's a movement. Consumers are increasingly eco-conscious, and brands that align with these values can build deeper loyalty. Opt for biodegradable or recyclable materials. Use soy-based inks for printing, which are kinder to the environment than traditional inks. Make sure to highlight your eco-friendly custom cannabis packaging on the product to attract green-minded consumers.

Example: Think hemp-based packaging. It’s sustainable, biodegradable, and offers a unique texture that will make your product stand out.

2. Minimalist Design

Sometimes, simplicity speaks volumes. A minimalist design can exude sophistication and class. Focus on clean lines, simple fonts, and a restrained color palette. This approach can help your product look modern and premium.

Example: Picture a solid color background with a sleek logo and minimal text. This clean design can make your product look professional and appealing to a wide audience.

3. Custom Shapes

Step outside the traditional rectangular box and watch the magic happen. Custom shapes can make your product more recognizable and memorable. Think about shapes that reflect your brand’s identity or the effects of the product.

Example: Edibles could be packaged in boxes shaped like leaves or buds, creating an immediate visual connection to the product inside.

4. High-Quality Materials

Using high-quality materials can give off a sense of luxury and value. Consider materials like thick, textured paper, metallic finishes, or even glass. The tactile experience of high-quality custom cannabis packaging can elevate the overall perception of your brand.

Example: Imagine a glass jar with a wooden lid—an artisanal touch that suggests high quality and care in production.

5. Interactive Packaging

Get your customers engaged with interactive elements. QR codes can link to product information, usage tips, or promotional content. Adding a scratch-off area can create excitement and provide additional value, like a discount code or a fun fact about cannabis.

Example: A QR code that leads to a video about the strain’s origin, effects, and optimal usage can provide customers with a richer experience.

6. Artwork and Illustrations

Turn your custom cannabis packaging into a piece of art. Collaborate with local artists or designers to create unique pieces that reflect your brand’s spirit.

Example: A series of limited-edition packaging designs featuring artwork inspired by different cannabis strains can encourage customers to collect all versions, boosting sales.

7. Functional Packaging

Functionality is key, especially for products that require precise dosing. Custom dispensary packaging that is easy to open and reseal can enhance the user experience. Consider adding features like built-in droppers for tinctures or child-resistant closures for safety.

Example: Pre-rolls packaged in a reusable, child-resistant tube offer both convenience and safety, appealing to responsible consumers.

8. Transparent Elements

Transparency can build trust with your customers by allowing them to see the product before they buy it. Incorporate transparent windows or use clear weed packaging for edibles and flowers.

Example: A clear window on the packaging of edibles can showcase the product’s quality and appeal, making it more enticing for potential buyers.

9. Personalized Packaging

Personalization can make your customers feel special and valued. Consider offering customizable labels where customers can add their names or a personal message. Limited edition runs for special occasions or holidays can also create a sense of exclusivity.

Example: Holiday-themed packaging or personalized labels for gift packs can increase the perceived value of your product.

10. Vintage or Retro Design

Nostalgia is a powerful tool. Vintage or retro designs can evoke a sense of history and reliability, appealing to older demographics or those with a taste for the classic.

Example: Packaging that mimics old apothecary jars or classic 70s designs can create a unique aesthetic that sets your product apart from more contemporary styles.

Bringing It All Together

Custom marijuana packaging is more than just a container for your product; it’s an extension of your brand’s identity. By incorporating these innovative ideas, you can create packaging that not only protects your product but also communicates your brand’s values, enhances customer experience, and ultimately drives sales.

Remember, the best custom weed packaging solutions resonate with your target audience, reflect your brand’s personality, and meet practical needs. Whether you’re going green, keeping it minimal, or going all out with interactive elements, the key is to be authentic and creative. Your cannabis packaging is often the first interaction a customer has with your brand—make it unforgettable!

[jaderimehardt]

The weather has been looking warmer and dryer lately, but its still been quite windy. I spent the earlier half of the day gathering some flowers and drying them with a flower press (that I'm pretty sure I've linked before in a previous post), for some future resin projects.

The link is here if anyone is interested, and it's called "Aboofx Microwave Flower Press":

It's been so long since I last used it, I somewhat forgot how time consuming it was to dry things. I vaguely recalled it required intervals of 20 or 30 seconds of "zapping" the flowers on 8-power or on high, depending on the microwave, but I forgot the details inbetween 🤷🏻‍♀️

I think it depends on the flowers and the flowers I was picking in this case, were these:

Many of them were large, thick, waxy, and very hydrated- because it's been raining a lot.

I ended up having to "zap" them for 30-seconds about 5 times, more or less, with breaks inbetween where I took the kit out of the microwave, took the components apart, let it cool almost completely, before assembling them together again and zap it again.

Even doing this, I feel some are questionably not completely dry. But they'll be sitting in a container for a good bit before I sit them in resin. So, they'll have time to finish the drying process (if they even need it).

I kind of felt bad dismantling the flowers to be honest. They're so pretty~ 🫶🏻. Just know you'll be forever memorialized in resin pretty flowers~

It's interesting to me that the original flower was a bright red, and then once it dried it turned into this more maroon red.

I tried to save as much as I could from the flowers, but the white one was incredibly damaged and had a lot of sap on it.

It took about 4 hours to make all of this. I guess I can understand why people buy already pre-made dried flowers- because it's time consuming, lol 😅. But I mean... I don't mind this too much. Just requires a bit of patience.

The itty bitty white ones (on the right in the tin) I did on a different day. I honestly love those and I need to make more of them.

I probably should have dried the dandelion differently, but that was the first angle that came to mind 🤔. Next time I'll try something different. And I messed up a pink flower trying to figure out the drying situation with the kit... mistakes happen 🫠. RIP pink flower.

I saved one of the red flowers for another day. This whole thing just ran too long for me 🙃. It's sitting in a water cup downstairs brightening up our kitchen 🌹 (I actually have no idea what type of flowers these are if I'm honest.)

[garnetindia]

Automatic Edge Banding Machine

Automatic Edge Banding Machine Automatic Edge Banding Machine using used to Glue PVC Edge Band on the Particle Board, plywood, MDF, Wood or similar materials Automatic Edge Banding Machine also finishes the edges of the PVC Edge Band Using various operations in the machine. Automatic Edge Banding Machine can have various functions as per requirement of finish, speed, production requirement.

We can provide variety of edge banding machines with various features. The usage and functions of the machines can be as mentioned below: Functions of an Edge Bander Machine are 1. Gluing (Glue on board, PVC Band Cutting and Pressing of Edge Band on Board) 2. Rough trimming ( Required if thicker tapes are used regularly) 3. Fine Trimming 4. Scraping 5. Buffing 6. End Cutting 7. Pre-Milling (Custom applications) 8. Corner rounding (For thick edge bands) 9. Releasing and Cleaning Agents 10. Board Preheating 11. Conveyor Feeding and machine can be customised as per customer requirement.

We would be happy to understand the details of your requirement and suggest a machine for the same.

Automatic Edge Banding Machine, Edge Banding Machine Price India, automatic edge banding machine price in india, Best automatic edge banding machine, automatic edge banding machine manufacturers, Automatic edge banding machine manufacturers in india,

[eazy-group]

Easy Keto Blondies

New Post has been published on https://eazywellness.net/easy-keto-blondies/

Easy Keto Blondies

These keto blondies are not only a celebration of chewy goodness but also a testament to the versatility of keto-friendly ingredients – and you don’t need to be an expert baker to make them! I call these almond flour brownies because they have the same texture as brownies – gooey, chewy, and rich – but a deliciously unique flavor. If you’re seeking a guilt-free dessert that’s decadent in taste and versatile in its ingredients, look no further.

Our low-carb blondies are super easy to make – just add the ingredients to a bowl, mix, and bake. Reserve some chocolate chips to sprinkle over the top if you want that photogenic finish! Be careful to keep an eye on them as they bake though, overbaking them can cause the blondies to dry out. To store, use an air-tight container. You can leave at room temp for 2-3 days, refrigerate for a week, or freeze for up to 3 months.

Yields 9 servings of Easy Keto Blondies

The Preparation

2 cup almond flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 cup allulose

2 large eggs

1/2 cup butter, softened

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup keto chocolate chips

The Execution

1. Gather and prep all ingredients. Pre-heat oven to 350F.

2. In a bowl, combine the almond flour and baking powder.

3. In a separate bowl, whisk together the allulose, eggs, butter, and vanilla extract until thick and light in color.

4. Add the wet ingredients into the dry, then mix until well combined and a batter forms.

5. Fold in the chocolate chips.

6. In a parchment-lined baking pan, add the dough and spread to distribute evenly. We used an 8×8 pan.

7. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean. Once finished, remove from oven and let cool. Enjoy!

NOTE: If blondies are golden brown at 20 minutes and not cooked through, you may need to cover the top with foil to stop from burning.

This makes a total of 9 servings of Easy Keto Blondies. Each cookie comes out to be 303 calories, 27.2g fats, 4.5g net carbs, and 7.1g protein.

NUTRITION CALORIES FAT CARBS FIBER NET CARBS PROTEIN 2.00 cup almond flour 1297 112 49.3 29.1 20.2 47 1.00 teaspoon baking powder 2 0 1.3 0 1.3 0 1.00 cup allulose 91 0 0 0 0 0 2.00 large egg 157 10.5 0.8 0 0.8 13.8 0.50 cup butter 814 92.1 0.1 0 0.1 1 1.00 tablespoon vanilla extract 37 0 1.6 0 1.6 0 0.50 cup low-carb dark chocolate chips 331 30.2 40.3 23.5 16.8 1.7 Totals 2730 244.8 93.4 52.7 40.7 63.5 Per Serving (/9) 303 27.2 10.4 5.9 4.5 7.1

The Preparation

2 cup almond flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 cup allulose

2 large eggs

1/2 cup butter, softened

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup keto chocolate chips

The Execution

Gather and prep all ingredients. Pre-heat oven to 350F.

In a bowl, combine the almond flour and baking powder.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the allulose, eggs, butter, and vanilla extract until thick and light in color.

Add the wet ingredients into the dry, then mix until well combined and a batter forms.

Fold in the chocolate chips.

In a parchment-lined baking pan, add the dough and spread to distribute evenly. We used an 8×8 pan.

Bake for 20-25 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean. Once finished, remove from oven and let cool. Enjoy!

NOTE: If blondies are golden brown at 20 minutes and not cooked through, you may need to cover the top with foil to stop from burning.

Notes

This makes a total of 9 servings of Easy Keto Blondies. Each cookie comes out to be 303 calories, 27.2g fats, 4.5g net carbs, and 7.1g protein.

3.1

https://www.ruled.me/easy-keto-blondies/

Copyright 2023 | Ruled.Me

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[somediyprojects]

DIY Stair Baluster Plant Stand

Project by Kate Pruitt:

i am a very sad person this week…i used to have access to what i thought was an inexhaustible supply of old stair balusters. i love having them around because they work beautifully for all sorts of projects, and whenever i ran out i knew i could walk into this one salvage shop and sift through a giant bin of them. but alas, i went looking for more yesterday and they are all sold out :( if you are the collector or store owner or whatever who went to said salvage shop and bought them all…smart move. i should have cracked the piggy bank and done it a long time ago. even though my chief supplier is currently tapped out, however, i vow that this will not be the last baluster project you see from me.

this plant stand is a great project for anyone who is picky about plant presentation; the height of the stand and the plant is completely customizable, and you can finish the wood in numerous ways, or repaint it whenever suits your fancy. for heavier plants, use four legs instead of three for added sturdiness. since i only had three balusters left (sniff) i have to be content with the tripod configuration. seek out the balusters in your area, and play around with it. have fun!! –kate

Materials:

– 3 – 4 chair balusters/banisters (i used 3, but would recommend 4 for extra sturdiness. you can purchase these new at hardware stores, or try to find them at salvage shops for usually far cheaper) – wooden peg plugs 1/4″ thickness (you can buy these at hardware stores too) – super strength wood glue – drill with 1/4″ bit – wooden circle, any diameter between 12″ – 20″ (you can buy these pre-cut at hardware stores or craft stores) – pencil – saw (hand saw or chop saw would be useful) – hammer – paint – tape measure and/or ruler

Instructions:

1. Decide what height you want your plant stand to be. Cut the bottom of the balusters level if they did not come that way. Hold all of you balusters with their bases level and use your ruler to mark the desired stand height on each baluster.

2. Cut each baluster to the marked height. Stand them up and check that they are all level and the same height.

3. Stand them up and place the wood circle in the middle to eye the height you want your plant to sit at (mine is 20″ from the ground). use your ruler to mark a dot at the desired height on each baluster. put the dot right in the middle of each baluster. make sure that the thickness of the wood at height where you connect the wood circle to the balusters is enough that you can drill in 1/2″ and not go through the entire baluster. if the baluster is too thin at the point of contact with the wood circle, the whole stand will be flimsy.

4. Drill a 1/4″ hole, about 1/2″ deep into the baluster right at the dot you’ve made. Repeat on all balusters.

5. Measure (or use math to calculate) the circumference of your wooden circle. Divide it in thirds or fourths (if you are using 3 or 4 balusters, respectively) and mark  a dot in the center of the sides at each interval.

6. Drill into the wooden circle about 1/2″ deep right at the dots you’ve marked. Now tap a peg plug not each hole in the wooden round. It should sink in about half of the peg’s length.

7. If you want to paint anything, remove the plugs from the circle and paint now. Allow everything to dry fully.

8. Use a hammer to tap the peg plugs into each baluster, and check that your stand is level and the circle is also level. now remove each baluster and remove the pegs. Put a small dap of glue into each hole (circle and baluster) and tap the peg bag into place. Repeat with all baluster legs until the stand is fully connected. Let the glue set for 30 min.

YOU’RE DONE!

note: this plant stand is suitable for plants and pots weighing under 25 lbs. again, i recommend four legs for added sturdiness ( i only had three so i went for the tripod look, which works for light plants).

[envieextensions]

Hand-Tied Extensions in Contrast to Tape-Ins for Stylists: What One Should Choose?

When choosing a semi-permanent method of hair extensions, one always has a dilemma of which to get. Both methods give instant solutions to issues related to length, volume, or strength. One must be aware of the consequences related to scalp health as it is not a one-type-fits-all kind of procedure. Hand-tied extensions are more discreet, safer, and a comfortable choice for most people. 

What are Hand-Tied Hair Extensions?

It is a method for sewing slim light wefts onto a string of beads attached to the natural hair. It is the best extension technique for adding volume and strength to the hair while preventing damage to the hair. They feel completely natural and light and can be easily colored, washed, curled, and styled. These are most favored by the stylists due to their comfort, flexibility, and seamless finish to the hair. Their longevity depends on the growth of your hair. Once the string of beads moves down due to natural hair growth, it needs to be moved. The general lifespan is 6 to 8 weeks. 

What are Tape-In Extensions?

Tape-in extensions are pre-taped wefts attached directly to the hair with a medical-grade adhesive. They are quick and inexpensive with a span of 5-8 weeks and can also cause damage to the natural hair. 

Removal of the tape also requires professional assistance as the glue can damage the natural hair. The adhesive of the glue can remain in the hair for several weeks. 

How do Hand-Tied Extensions Work?

Hand-tied hair extensions are the best option for hair extensions for salon use. They are gentle and hair-friendly methods for adding tons of volume, strength, and length to the hair. A horseshoe-shaped row of beads is attached to the hair and the wefts are sewn to this beaded foundation. The number of strings applied ranges from 1 to 4, based on the client’s need and hair type. 

How do Tape-In Extensions Work?

Tape-in extensions use a strong adhesive to stick the wefts to the natural hair. For application, the stylist removes the backing from the tape and places sections of natural hair between the two strips thus sandwiching them. 

Hand-Tied Extensions Pros and Cons

Hand-tied extensions are the best option due to their natural appearance, wearability, and comfort. But everything comes with pros and cons, which are listed below:

Hand-Tied Extensions Pros

- charming volume, fulness, and length that seems natural.

- little stress on the scalp and roots.

- no tugging or damage to the natural hair.

- unlimited styling possibilities.

- discreet attachments that are not even visible in very thin hair.

- apt for any kind of lifestyle including swimming or high temperatures. 

Hand-Tied Hair Extensions Cons

- the initial investment of time and money is huge.

- extensions must be moved after every 6-8 weeks due to the natural hair growth.

- frequent brushing and maintenance are required to keep them looking natural.

- not the best choice for curly or super-coiled hair. 

Tape-In Extensions Pros and Cons

These are quick and cheap methods for semi-permanent hair extensions but they can be harsh to the natural hair. The pros and cons are listed below. 

Tape-In Hair Extensions Pros

- add length, volume, and thickness without a major commitment.

-  initial installation is fast, easy, and inexpensive.

- give a natural appearance as the tape lies flat on the scalp.

- highly customizable to different hair types and growth patterns.

Tape-In Extensions Cons

- removal is highly difficult and can cause natural hair loss.

- adhesives or chemical removers may aggravate scalp-related skin issues.

- frequent brushing and maintenance are required.

- the adhesive bonds should not be exposed to hair oils or heat treatments.

- provide less volume so they won’t give a mermaid look to your hair.

Conclusion

Hair extensions are a perfect solution for those who wish to add length, volume, or strength to their hair. There are many procedures available to get them but the hand-tied hair extension method has proved to be the most favorable one. Envie Hair Extensions provides a one-stop solution to your extension needs by being the best in the market for salon use. They are hair extension suppliers for the finest luxury hair look. Their hand-tied hair extensions are best suited for people who wish to keep them discreet and invisible. It adds perfectly to your look and makes you feel like owning the world. 

[ccrbonline]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: 01400 Jessica McClintock coated metallic bronze convertible clutch evening bag.