#prawn curry for the rest of us. it's goan prawn curry
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wherestoriescomefrom · 1 year ago
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ive made the pudina chutney and ive made the prawn curry and then tomorrow I'll make egg curry and prep the apples for toddy my best friends are coming it's going to be a lovely day
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besthotelsingoa · 1 month ago
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Top Seafood Dishes in Goa You Can’t Miss in 2024
When it comes to seafood, Goa is a true paradise for food lovers. At our hotels, we take pride in offering some of the finest Goan seafood dishes right at our very own property, so you don’t have to wander far to satisfy your cravings. Whether you're staying at one of our hotels in Morjim Goa or in Calangute, our restaurants serve a variety of mouth-watering dishes that showcase the true flavors of Goa. Here are the five seafood dishes you simply can't miss when you visit us in 2024.
Red Snapper Recheado
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We serve the iconic Red Snapper Recheado, a dish you can’t miss! This Goan delicacy features a whole red snapper stuffed with a tangy and spicy recheado masala paste made from red chilies, vinegar, and a blend of traditional spices. Pan-fried to crispy perfection, the dish bursts with flavor and is a perfect balance of heat and tang. If you’re staying at one of our hotels in Morjim Goa, you can enjoy this dish right by the beach without leaving the comfort of your hotel. Pair it with a chilled drink, and you’ve got yourself a meal worth remembering.
Grilled Sea Bass
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For those who enjoy something light yet flavorful, the Grilled Sea Bass is a top choice. The fresh sea bass is marinated with herbs, lemon, and a special blend of Goan spices before being grilled to juicy perfection. The crispy skin and tender flesh make this a true delight for seafood lovers. Staying at our hotels in Calangute Goa. You don’t have to leave your hotel to experience this fantastic dish, as it’s served at our in-house restaurant. Enjoy the simplicity and freshness of this seafood while soaking in the beachside views.
Pomfret Caldine Curry
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Pomfret Caldine Curry is another must-try seafood dish that’s available at our hotels in Morjim Goa and North Goa hotels near beach. This mild, coconut-based curry is made with fresh pomfret, simmered in a sauce that combines coconut milk, green chilies, turmeric, and other fragrant spices. The result is a creamy, flavorful curry that pairs perfectly with steamed rice. You don’t have to go anywhere else to experience this authentic Goan dish—it’s served fresh and hot at our own hotel, ensuring the highest quality and taste.
Goan Tiger Prawn Balchao
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Don’t miss out on our fiery Goan Tiger Prawn Balchao. This dish features succulent tiger prawns cooked in a tangy, spicy sauce made with tomatoes, vinegar, and an array of Goan spices. It’s the perfect dish for those who like bold, intense flavors. Served alongside traditional Goan bread or rice, this dish packs a punch and is one of the highlights of our menu. Whether you’re staying at our hotels in Morjim Goa or hotels in Calangute Goa, Tiger Prawn Balchao is always available to spice up your stay.
Lobster Xec Xec
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For an indulgent seafood experience, our Lobster Xec Xec is the perfect choice. This rich, flavorful Goan dish is made with lobster cooked in a thick coconut-based gravy, infused with roasted spices and tamarind. The luxurious dish is not only a feast for the palate but also a visual treat. You can enjoy this exquisite dish without needing to venture out to other restaurants. We offer this dish at our in-house dining spaces, providing a gourmet experience within our North Goa hotels near the beach.
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Goa’s seafood is legendary, and at our hotels, you can enjoy the best of it without ever leaving the comfort of your hotel. From the spicy Red Snapper Recheado to the indulgent Lobster Xec Xec, our expert chefs craft each dish with authentic Goan flavors that capture the essence of coastal cuisine. So whether you're staying at our hotels in Morjim Goa, hotels in Calangute Goa, or our beautiful North Goa hotels near the beach, rest assured that the finest Goan seafood dishes await you at Red Thread Hotels.
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pangaatindianrestro01 · 3 months ago
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Best Restaurant in Southport: Discover the Flavors of India at Pangaat Indian Restaurant & Bar
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Introduction
Southport, located in the vibrant Gold Coast region of Queensland, boasts a diverse and bustling dining scene. From trendy cafes to gourmet restaurants, there’s something to satisfy every palate. Among the Best Restaurant in Southport, Pangaat Indian Restaurant & Bar shines brightly, offering a unique dining experience that transports you straight to the heart of India. With a menu that caters to both vegetarians and non-vegetarians, Pangaat has quickly become a favorite among locals and tourists alike.
Why Pangaat Indian Restaurant & Bar Stands Out
In a city where dining options are plentiful, what makes Pangaat Indian Restaurant & Bar stand out? It’s the combination of an authentic menu, a welcoming ambiance, and a dedication to quality that makes this restaurant a cut above the rest. From the moment you step through the door, you’re greeted by the rich aroma of spices and a warm, inviting atmosphere that promises an unforgettable dining experience.
Location and Accessibility
Conveniently located in Southport, Pangaat is easily accessible from various parts of the Gold Coast. Whether you’re a local resident or a visitor exploring the area, you’ll find Pangaat situated at Gold Coast. The restaurant offers ample parking space, ensuring a hassle-free visit even during peak hours.
A Menu That Satisfies All Palates
Pangaat’s menu is a culinary journey through India, offering a wide array of dishes that cater to different tastes and dietary preferences. Whether you’re a vegetarian, a meat lover, or someone with a penchant for seafood, Pangaat’s menu has something for everyone. Let’s take a closer look at the diverse offerings.
Vegetarian Delights at Pangaat
For vegetarians, Pangaat offers a rich selection of dishes that highlight the versatility of Indian cuisine. Start your meal with popular starters like Paneer Tikka or Vegetable Samosa, both of which are bursting with flavor. When it comes to the main course, the choices are equally impressive, with dishes like Palak Paneer and Vegetable Biryani stealing the spotlight. For those following a vegan diet, Pangaat also offers a variety of plant-based options that are equally delicious and satisfying.
Non-Vegetarian Delicacies
If you’re a fan of non-vegetarian cuisine, Pangaat does not disappoint. The restaurant’s signature dishes include the Butter Chicken, a classic favorite, and the Lamb Rogan Josh, a dish that perfectly balances heat and flavor. Seafood lovers can indulge in the Goan Fish Curry or the Prawn Masala, both of which are cooked to perfection. Each dish is prepared using traditional methods, ensuring that the flavors remain authentic and true to their origins.
A Takeaway Menu That Doesn’t Compromise on Quality
For those who prefer to enjoy their meal at home, Pangaat offers a comprehensive takeaway menu that includes many of the restaurant’s most popular dishes. Whether you’re ordering a quick lunch or planning a dinner at home, Pangaat ensures that your takeaway order is prepared with the same care and attention to detail as a dine-in meal. The restaurant’s packaging is designed to maintain the freshness and warmth of the food, so you can enjoy it at its best.
How to Order Takeaway
Ordering takeaway from Pangaat is a breeze. You can place your order online through the restaurant’s website or give them a call. The staff is friendly and efficient, ensuring that your order is ready for pickup at the designated time.
Dining Experience at Pangaat
The dining experience at Pangaat is one of its major highlights. The restaurant’s interior is a blend of modern design with traditional Indian elements, creating a cozy yet elegant ambiance. The soft lighting, comfortable seating, and tasteful decor make it an ideal spot for a relaxing meal. The service is equally commendable, with the staff going out of their way to ensure that your dining experience is nothing short of perfect.
Perfect for All Occasions
Pangaat is more than just a restaurant; it’s a venue that suits all types of gatherings. Whether you’re planning a family dinner, a romantic date night, or a special celebration, Pangaat has the space and the menu to accommodate your needs. The restaurant also offers special event packages, making it a popular choice for hosting birthdays, anniversaries, and corporate events.
The Importance of Fresh Ingredients
At Pangaat, quality begins with the ingredients. The restaurant sources its produce from local suppliers, ensuring that everything on your plate is fresh and of the highest quality. The chefs at Pangaat are passionate about their craft, using these fresh ingredients to create dishes that are not only delicious but also healthy.
Customer Reviews and Testimonials
One of the best ways to gauge the quality of a restaurant is through customer reviews, and Pangaat has no shortage of glowing testimonials. Locals rave about the authenticity of the food, the friendly service, and the inviting atmosphere. On popular food review platforms, Pangaat consistently receives high ratings, with many customers calling it the best Indian restaurant in Southport.
Reservation Information
To ensure you get a table at Pangaat, especially during busy hours, it’s recommended to make a reservation. You can easily book a table online or by calling the restaurant directly. Pangaat also offers special discounts for advance reservations, making your dining experience even more enjoyable.
Pricing and Value for Money
While Pangaat offers a premium dining experience, the prices are reasonable, especially considering the quality of the food and the service. The restaurant also frequently offers deals and discounts, making it accessible to a wide range of customers. Whether you’re dining in or ordering takeaway, Pangaat offers great value for money.
Cultural Experience Beyond Food
Dining at Pangaat is not just about the food; it’s a cultural experience. The restaurant’s decor is infused with elements of Indian culture, from the music playing in the background to the artwork on the walls. The staff’s warm hospitality is a reflection of the traditional Indian value of ‘Atithi Devo Bhava,’ meaning ‘The guest is God,’ making every visitor feel welcome and appreciated.
Conclusion
Pangaat Indian Restaurant & Bar is not just the best Indian restaurant in Southport; it’s a culinary destination that offers an authentic and memorable dining experience. From its diverse menu to its warm ambiance and excellent service, Pangaat has all the ingredients of a perfect restaurant. Whether you’re a local or a visitor, a vegetarian or a non-vegetarian, a dine-in enthusiast or a takeaway lover, Pangaat promises a meal that you won’t soon forget. So the next time you’re in Southport, make sure to visit Pangaat Indian Restaurant & Bar and experience the best of Indian cuisine.
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womenoffatorda · 4 years ago
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9 Must-Try Goan Dishes and their Recipes
Goa is a world-famous tourist destination. Every year, lacs of tourists flock to Goa to experience it’s blue beaches. Goa’s sunny weather is a perfect getaway during winters for these tourists to escape the harsh winters of their countries.
In addition to it’s tourism, Goa has also garnered popularity for it’s food dishes. Goan foods are a fusion of Portuguese and Konkani cuisine.
Here are a the names and recipes of 9 Goan dishes that must-try:
1. BANGDA RAWA FRY
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Take 1 kg of Bangda (Mackeral) gutted and thoroughly cleaned. Season it well with salt and pepper and leave it aside for at least 10 to 15 minutes.
Apply the Green Raechado masala both on the inside and outside of the fish generously and again leave it aside for another 10 minutes.
Coat the fish with Rawa (semolina) or breadcrumbs by rolling the fish in it. Heat 2-3 tbsps of oil in a frying pan and shallow fry until the fish is firm to the touch.
Serve hot with fresh mint or coriander chutney, and slices of fresh lime. You can also use pomfret or even sardines, and depending on your preference, you can shallow fry, deep fry, grill, or even steam. You can also use this as a marinate for small fish and even meats.
2. MUTTON BIRYANI
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Boil 1 kg of basmati rice and keep it aside.
Marinate 1 kg of mutton on the bone, cut in bite-sized pieces, with 1/2 a cup of curd, lemon juice, and salt, and keep it aside for at least 2-3 hours.
In a kadhai, add 5-6 tbsps of oil, 2 tbsps of ghee, and fry 3 sliced onions. Add the puree of 2 tomatoes and cook until the oil separates.
Add all the Goemchi Biryani masala and cook for 2 minutes. Now add the mutton to the masala and cook until the mutton is well cooked.
Add rice into the kadhai and mix well. Garnish with fried onions and coriander leaves.
You can substitute the mutton with chicken too.
3. MUTTON CURRY
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Fry 1 kg of mutton, cut into bite-sized pieces in 6 tbsps of ghee, in a frying pan until it turns slightly brown. Set aside.
In the same pan, heat 3 tbsps of oil, fry 4 finely sliced onions until they turn golden brown.
Add two tablespoons of Chandrawado Mutton masala and saute for 2-3 min, then add the mutton, and salt.
Fry for 7-8 min, add 1 cup of water and cook until meat is tender. While on the gas flame, add 1 cup of unsalted curd or yogurt, and mix well to combine.
Simmer on low flame for 5 min. Garnish with chopped mint or fresh coriander and lightly roasted cashews.
Serve hot with rice or poi (Goan bread).
4. TISRYO MASALA
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Clean and wash about 40 to 50 Tisryo (clams), cut in two or shelled. In a vessel, add 2 to 3 medium onions, finely chopped, along with the clams and add 2 cups of water. 
Bring to boil and continue cooking until the onions are tender. Add 2 to 3 tbsps of Kunbi Xasti masala, 1/2 a cup of grated coconut, chopped coriander leaves, and salt to taste. 
Stir well, and continue to cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from fire and serve with rice or Poi (Goan bread). It’s advisable to soak the clams in some salt water to remove all traces of sand. 
Fresh clams will open up when cooked. You can substitute crabs for the clams, in which case you should take 2 to 3 medium sized ones.
5. STUFFED FISH IN BANANA LEAF
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Take 2 medium sized seerfish, scaled, gutted and the fins removed. Using a pairing knife, make three slits on each side of the fish and then marinate them inside and outside throughly with lemon juice and salt. 
Stuff the fish with the Fisherman’s Barbeque masala. Oil one side of the banana leaf and wrap the fish in it, securing with butcher’s twine. Repeat with the other fish and grill them on a barbecue grill over medium heat for 10 minutes each side. 
Remove and let it rest for 5 minutes. Open the banana leaves and serve the fish with a dash of lemon and chopped mint. You can try this with other popular Goan fish like Chaunak (Giant Sea Perch) or Pomfret.
6. MORI AMOBOTIK
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Take half a kilo of fresh Mori (shark), clean well, and cut into bite-sized chunks, season with salt, and set aside for 10 to 15 minutes.
Heat 2 to 3 tbsps of oil in a Tawa and fry 1 finely sliced onion until it turns brown.
Add 2-3 (add more for more gravy) tbsps of Aamso-Tiksso masala paste and fry for another minute.
Add a cup of water and allow it to come to boil. Add the shark and cook over a low flame until the fish turns firm to the touch.
Adjust salt, garnish with fresh coriander leaves, and serve with steamed rice or poi (Goan bread). Though traditional Ambotik is made with sharks, you can use also Rohu, Catla, Catfish, or any fish that has chunky flesh.
7. CHICKEN SHAGOTI
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Clean 1kg of chicken, cut into bite sized pieces and season with salt. Marinate with 1 tbsp of ginger-garlic paste, 1 tbsp of coriander paste (from coriander leaves) and set aside. 
In a frying pan, fry 2 large onions, thinly sliced, until they turn translus- cent. Add the chicken and cook on high heat until the water begins to evaporate (about 3-4 minutes). 
Mix 2 to 3 tbsps of the Pedne Shagoti masala with 1 cup of coconut milk and add to the chicken and cook for 10 minutes. 
Stir well and cook for another 15 minutes till the gravy reaches the desired thickness. Garnish with coriander leaves and serve with Poi (Goan bread) or rice.
8. SWEET POTATO BHAJI
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Take 1 kilo of sweet potatos and cut them in bite sized pieces. Cook until three-fourhs cooked. 
In a pan, fry 2 finely chopped onions and 2 tbsps of ginger-garlic paste until the onions become translucent. 
Add 2-4 tbsps of Gavli Bhaji masala and fry for a minute. Add 1 finely chopped tomato and cook until it becomes soft. (at this point you can make this a mixed bhaji by adding a cup of chickpeas to the mixture) If not, add 1 cup of coconut milk and bring it to a simmer on a low flame. Add the sweet potato and salt to taste. 
Cook for another 3-4 minutes until the gravy reaches the desired consistancy. Serve hot with rice or Poi (Goan bread). You can also use potatos or yam.
9. PRAWN WITH OKHRA
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Heat 4 tbsps of oil in a kadai, and fry 1 finely chopped medium sized onion until it turns pink. 
Add 250 grams each of the prawns (cleaned and deveined) and the okhra (lady’s fingers) and sautee for about a minute. 
Add 2 to 3 tbsps of the Soongta Hooman masala along with a cup of thick coconut milk. 
Stir well. Add salt to taste and cook until the prawns and the okhra are done––the prawns should not be overcooked––and the gravy reaches the desired consistency. 
Garnish with chopped coriander leaves or mint leaves and serve hot with steamed rice or poi (Goan Bread). A variation on this is substituting okhra with white radish.
For more interesting Goan food recipes, visit our website.
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quieteating · 3 years ago
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New Post has been published on Quieteating
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Gymkhana
Sometimes it is nice to feel a bit of colonial grandeur.  Helps to distract when the gloomy times come by.  Like when you are reminded that the rich and powerful are subject to different rules from the rest of us.
Trying to move away from the mechanisms of British politics here, I tried to defy ill winds and enjoy lunch.
Suitable placing.  Gymkhana certainty have got the ambience right.  Marbled tabletops, dark wood furnishing, darkly clad waiters.  I felt like I was transported back to the epitome of the British Empire.
Pappadum selection.  Arriving at our table in a wooden box was an assortment of pappadums.  Interesting selection if not particularly earth shattering.
Shrimp sorpotel, nimbu achaari raita.  I liked the spicy raita sauce, a slight hint of fire added a bit of joy to this life.  It was an interesting way to start.
Kasoori chicken Tikka, Moong sprouts and Kasundi Mustard.  The first dish was succulent and carefully flavoured in tikka, the cubed vegetables lent a counterpoint of crunchiness compared to the soft, yielding chicken.
Kid Goat Methi keerna, salli, pao.
Close up of the kid goat.  I always thought it was funny to refer to a young goat as a kid.  As it could lead to potentially cannibalistic phrases.  Such as, I am eating some kid tonight.  No no, not mine but someone else’s.
Awkward silence ensues.
As for the taste, it was a little salty for my liking.  Fulsome flavour though if a little heavy.
Basmati rice.
Goan prawn curry.  First the positives.  The curry was rich and flavourful, it hid the delicately cooked prawn.  Cooked exceedingly well, it was cooked just the right side of cooked.  The problem was, it sadly only appeared in the singular.
And that, was the problem.  The highlight of the meal lasted less than 10 seconds.
It was rather small with maybe two prawns in the cup.
Dal Lasooni.  A smooth bean curry.  It was ok, if nothing particularly special.
Saag Makai.  A heavy spinach and dairy dish.  Nice touch to cater for your tolerance of spiciness by including the chilli on top rather than mixed all around.  Smooth and fulsome, a nice addition.
Although the ambience may harkening back to the colonial past, its service has a bit of a question mark hanging over it.  As my fellow diner is dairy intolerant, much wrangling and discussions with the waiter ensured.  No, I can’t take milk.  No I can’t take cheese.  No I can’t take cream.  Could I please just have the dairy free menu?  If you say I can only eat vegetables, I might as well not have come to your restaurant. Arguing with your masters isn’t really the best way to endear yourself to the consumer.
However, putting this aside, if you are looking for something heavy and traditional you have come to the right place.  Yet, this is not somewhere that you would want to visit if you are seeking lightness in your life.
  A quiet eating 7/10.
Lunch (2 courses) was GBP29.50 excluding drinks and service.
  Gymkhana
42 Albemarle Street London W1S 4JH
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easyfoodnetwork · 4 years ago
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Our Food for the Many Rainy Days Ahead
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Goa’s monsoon season has long necessitated the practice of purumenth, or stocking up. Today, during the COVID-19 pandemic, it’s a new kind of lifesaver.
We were the crow chasers.
Armed with rolled-up newspapers and sticks, we three siblings waited on the balcão (balcony) guarding the choris (Goan sausages) that were draped over a bamboo rod perched above the ground. Inside, the family sat on the floor mixing pork with local toddy vinegar, chiles, and spices, stuffing it into a casing of pigs’ intestines. A cotton thread tied off links, forming a meaty necklace dripping with fat and staining everything red.
These meat necklaces were our assignment, and they attracted crows by the dozen. The sausages hovered over freshly sourced chiles from different villages, solam (kokum), tamarind, mangoes, and fish, all spread on newspaper or mats woven from coconut palms. The salty aromas, mingled with the afternoon heat, proved irresistible to the birds. Fighting them off on hot summer days was our main source of entertainment during this long and tedious process, and we fought bravely.
These items, after all, were important — this was our purumenth, our food for the many rainy days ahead.
Purumenth (sometimes spelled purument or purmenth) is the local Konkani corruption of the Portuguese word provimento or provisão, meaning provisions. It is, most simply, the practice of stocking up for times when food is scarce.
Goa is a small state on India’s west coast. Ruled by the Portuguese from around 1510 until 1961, Goa today is known for being a popular travel destination thanks to its distinct cuisine, cultural diversity, cheap alcohol (tax rates on booze vary throughout India, and Goa has among the lowest), and beachy, laid-back life compared to cities like Mumbai and Delhi.
It’s also known for monsoons.
India’s monsoon season follows the hot, dry summer months of April and May and it lasts from June until September. The rain is fickle, alternating between light drizzles and heavy downpours that cause destructive flooding, limiting transportation and the mobility of goods and people — and, historically, making fresh ingredients like produce, meat, and fish scarce.
“Until a few decades back, provisions for the rains had to be gathered well in advance as the rains were unpredictable, weather forecasting was unknown, and refrigeration facilities non-existent,” writes historian Fátima da Silva Gracias in her book Cozinha de Goa: History and Tradition of Goan Food.
“The whole western coast would batten down the hatches before the monsoons came howling through.”
For decades, my family — like many others in villages across the state — would stock up for the harsh and volatile monsoon. Preparations began early, from mid-February onward. April and May, then, were months of abundance, of cheap goods and busyness. Food was procured, cleaned, sun-dried, pickled, and stored.
“The whole western coast would batten down the hatches before the monsoons came howling through,” says archaeologist and culinary anthropologist Kurush F. Dalal. “Everybody stocked things on a yearly basis — masala, dals and ghee, pickles, dry fish, salt, and pappad. It wasn’t frugality, but systematic planning to ensure the larder was always full.”
Everything had to be ready by mid-May in case of early showers. Those who were unable to prep in time by themselves could stock up at Purumentachem Fests held at the end of May and early June. These fairs were linked to the annual church feasts in the cities of Margao and Mapusa, which, since they occurred around time the monsoons began to sweep in, sold a variety of purumenth staples for last-minute shoppers.
For the most part, purumenth is the stuff of culinary history. Over the last few decades, the arrival of refrigerators to store produce, the availability of fresh goods throughout the monsoons, and increased mobility between villages and cities have made stocking up less crucial. Purumenth fairs still occur annually, and locals still stock up on dried fish, rice, vinegar and pickles, but lately they’ve been less driven by necessity than nostalgia — “preparing” less a practice than a memory, one looked upon fondly by the older generations.
But then COVID hit. On March 24, Goa, like the rest of India, went into a government-mandated lockdown to curb the spread of COVID-19. The announcement was a surprise and ill-planned, leaving people with no time to prepare. In the initial days, people weren’t allowed to leave their homes; shops and markets were shuttered, and there was no public transportation. In many places, people started rationing meals as supplies started to run out. For the first time in a long time, food was hard to come by.
In the villages, elders nodded their heads wisely. It wasn’t the monsoon season yet, but they knew how to deal with this enforced isolation. They had been storing provisions for years and had a diminished but stocked larder. It was our younger generation that struggled, spoiled by abundance of choice and instant gratification, and living in homes where space is too premium to be utilized for storing goods.
“Our ancestors were smart enough to live by the seasons. But we’ve become greedy, and our demands have exceeded our supply,” says Avinash Martins, chef and owner of Cavatina Cucina. “Had we to follow our ancestral cycle, we wouldn’t have taken our food for granted.”
In the olden days, Goan kitchens had a cow dung-smattered floor and an earthen stove. On a bamboo rod placed high across the kitchen hung local white onions and sausages — the smoke from the fireplace kept the insects away — and most houses had a designated storage area, a secluded corner, the space under the bed or a dark room.
This space, while not exactly photogenic, offered a snapshot of summer bounty like cheap fresh fish, mangoes, jackfruit, chiles, and cashews. Here, too, lay all the dried, salted, and cured produce. There was kokum, tamarind balls, whole spices, masalas, and bhornis (porcelain jars) with pickles like chepne tor (flattened raw mangoes in brine). Some families had mitantulem mas — salted pork drained of its water via heavy weights and dried into a jerky of sorts. There was coconut oil and vinegar made from the toddy extracted from the coconut palms. Summer fruits like jackfruit and mangoes — including the seeds — were peeled, sliced, and dried for use in curries.
My family still lives in a small village in the north of Goa, in an old Indo-Portuguese house. Back in the 1930s and ’40s, the building had a separate room dedicated to rice. The bhathachim kudd (paddy room) was in the center of the house with no direct access to sunlight, keeping it cool and dark, and had a roughly hewn bamboo structure filled with paddy — rice with husk — from our fields.
“Preparing” has become less a practice than a memory, one looked upon fondly by the older generations.
“We dried the paddy in the sun to prevent insects from eating it, and parboiled it in a bhann [a big copper pot],” says Maryanne Lobo, an Ayurvedic doctor in Goa whose family also had a bhathachim kudd. “Once boiled, we took it to the mill to remove the bran, and stored the rice in a dhond [a barrel-like container].”
Lobo learned about purumenth from her maternal aunt. “She would store jackfruit seeds in a hole dug into the floor. She used the mud from an ant hill to create a well and covered the top with cow dung mixture. This kept the seeds dry and free from insects.” Dried jackfruit seeds were cooked like a vegetable, or added to curries.
Like her aunt, Lobo still stocks up religiously every summer. She doesn’t have a storeroom anymore, so the paddy is dried in her balcony, and she stores her jackfruit seeds in sand. The traditional jars have given way to plastic bottles, and provisions are stocked beneath beds — but still, she says “purumenth was a lifesaver” during the lockdown.
There’s something overwhelming and intoxicating about the smell of dried fish — fierce, pungent, and fermenting. Traditionally, in the monsoon months fishermen could not venture out into the choppy sea, so good fish was scarce. Locally caught fish from rivers and ponds was limited and expensive. People, then, preferred eating kharem (salted fish).
Goa’s typical dried fish stock includes the common mackerel, salted and dried and pickled to become a para with vinegar and masalas; dried shrimp; and prawns — pickled into a tangy molho or balchao, or dried. In the monsoon, this fish forms the accompaniments to a simple lunch of rice and plain curry, or to the mid-morning meal of pez (rice gruel). Dried shrimp becomes kismur — a dry salad made with coconut and tamarind, for which the prawns are roasted over a flame with coconut oil and the para is fried and roasted.
Fish was high on Marius Fernandes’s summer prep this year. Known as Goa’s “Festival Man” — responsible for conducting more than 40 cultural festivals in the region — Fernandes has dedicated his life to promoting the traditional Goan way of life. On lockdown in the small island village of Divar, he spent the summer doing prep under the guidance of his 88-year-old mother, Anna. The family dried and pickled prawns and mackerel, seeds, ripe and raw mangoes, jackfruit, pineapples, and tomatoes. “The situation with regards to sourcing fresh food is only going to get worse in this current situation,” says Fernandes, who has spent much of the last few months in the family garden. “We have to start thinking about growing our own food.”
Like Fernandes, the few who never stopped practicing purumenth are eloquent about its benefits. And those who are rediscovering it now, in response to COVID-19 shortages, are finding that it fits well into the modern ethos surrounding eating. “This is the new gourmet: food that is harvested locally, is seasonal, organic, grown in small batches, with a zero-carbon footprint,” says Cavatina Cucina’s Martins, who became more conscious about his food back in 2018 when the toxic chemical formalin was found in fish and led to a scare in Goa. Today he makes and stores pickles, fish, chiles, and salt.
“Because of the lockdown, we again know about all the wonderful produce available here,” says Fernandes. “Earlier, these would go to markets and supermarkets. Now, we are getting first pick of this locally grown, organic produce.”
Today, my larder in Mumbai has a few traces of purumenth: some salted shrimp and a pack of sausages. There have always been sausages in my kitchen, my way of connecting back to my home in Goa. There’s no need to fight off any crows, though — just my dog, who is equally fascinated by fragrant links of choris.
Joanna Lobo is a freelance journalist from India who enjoys writing about food and its ties to communities, her Goan heritage, and other things that make her happy. Roanna Fernandes is an illustrator from Mumbai.
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Goa’s monsoon season has long necessitated the practice of purumenth, or stocking up. Today, during the COVID-19 pandemic, it’s a new kind of lifesaver.
We were the crow chasers.
Armed with rolled-up newspapers and sticks, we three siblings waited on the balcão (balcony) guarding the choris (Goan sausages) that were draped over a bamboo rod perched above the ground. Inside, the family sat on the floor mixing pork with local toddy vinegar, chiles, and spices, stuffing it into a casing of pigs’ intestines. A cotton thread tied off links, forming a meaty necklace dripping with fat and staining everything red.
These meat necklaces were our assignment, and they attracted crows by the dozen. The sausages hovered over freshly sourced chiles from different villages, solam (kokum), tamarind, mangoes, and fish, all spread on newspaper or mats woven from coconut palms. The salty aromas, mingled with the afternoon heat, proved irresistible to the birds. Fighting them off on hot summer days was our main source of entertainment during this long and tedious process, and we fought bravely.
These items, after all, were important — this was our purumenth, our food for the many rainy days ahead.
Purumenth (sometimes spelled purument or purmenth) is the local Konkani corruption of the Portuguese word provimento or provisão, meaning provisions. It is, most simply, the practice of stocking up for times when food is scarce.
Goa is a small state on India’s west coast. Ruled by the Portuguese from around 1510 until 1961, Goa today is known for being a popular travel destination thanks to its distinct cuisine, cultural diversity, cheap alcohol (tax rates on booze vary throughout India, and Goa has among the lowest), and beachy, laid-back life compared to cities like Mumbai and Delhi.
It’s also known for monsoons.
India’s monsoon season follows the hot, dry summer months of April and May and it lasts from June until September. The rain is fickle, alternating between light drizzles and heavy downpours that cause destructive flooding, limiting transportation and the mobility of goods and people — and, historically, making fresh ingredients like produce, meat, and fish scarce.
“Until a few decades back, provisions for the rains had to be gathered well in advance as the rains were unpredictable, weather forecasting was unknown, and refrigeration facilities non-existent,” writes historian Fátima da Silva Gracias in her book Cozinha de Goa: History and Tradition of Goan Food.
“The whole western coast would batten down the hatches before the monsoons came howling through.”
For decades, my family — like many others in villages across the state — would stock up for the harsh and volatile monsoon. Preparations began early, from mid-February onward. April and May, then, were months of abundance, of cheap goods and busyness. Food was procured, cleaned, sun-dried, pickled, and stored.
“The whole western coast would batten down the hatches before the monsoons came howling through,” says archaeologist and culinary anthropologist Kurush F. Dalal. “Everybody stocked things on a yearly basis — masala, dals and ghee, pickles, dry fish, salt, and pappad. It wasn’t frugality, but systematic planning to ensure the larder was always full.”
Everything had to be ready by mid-May in case of early showers. Those who were unable to prep in time by themselves could stock up at Purumentachem Fests held at the end of May and early June. These fairs were linked to the annual church feasts in the cities of Margao and Mapusa, which, since they occurred around time the monsoons began to sweep in, sold a variety of purumenth staples for last-minute shoppers.
For the most part, purumenth is the stuff of culinary history. Over the last few decades, the arrival of refrigerators to store produce, the availability of fresh goods throughout the monsoons, and increased mobility between villages and cities have made stocking up less crucial. Purumenth fairs still occur annually, and locals still stock up on dried fish, rice, vinegar and pickles, but lately they’ve been less driven by necessity than nostalgia — “preparing” less a practice than a memory, one looked upon fondly by the older generations.
But then COVID hit. On March 24, Goa, like the rest of India, went into a government-mandated lockdown to curb the spread of COVID-19. The announcement was a surprise and ill-planned, leaving people with no time to prepare. In the initial days, people weren’t allowed to leave their homes; shops and markets were shuttered, and there was no public transportation. In many places, people started rationing meals as supplies started to run out. For the first time in a long time, food was hard to come by.
In the villages, elders nodded their heads wisely. It wasn’t the monsoon season yet, but they knew how to deal with this enforced isolation. They had been storing provisions for years and had a diminished but stocked larder. It was our younger generation that struggled, spoiled by abundance of choice and instant gratification, and living in homes where space is too premium to be utilized for storing goods.
“Our ancestors were smart enough to live by the seasons. But we’ve become greedy, and our demands have exceeded our supply,” says Avinash Martins, chef and owner of Cavatina Cucina. “Had we to follow our ancestral cycle, we wouldn’t have taken our food for granted.”
In the olden days, Goan kitchens had a cow dung-smattered floor and an earthen stove. On a bamboo rod placed high across the kitchen hung local white onions and sausages — the smoke from the fireplace kept the insects away — and most houses had a designated storage area, a secluded corner, the space under the bed or a dark room.
This space, while not exactly photogenic, offered a snapshot of summer bounty like cheap fresh fish, mangoes, jackfruit, chiles, and cashews. Here, too, lay all the dried, salted, and cured produce. There was kokum, tamarind balls, whole spices, masalas, and bhornis (porcelain jars) with pickles like chepne tor (flattened raw mangoes in brine). Some families had mitantulem mas — salted pork drained of its water via heavy weights and dried into a jerky of sorts. There was coconut oil and vinegar made from the toddy extracted from the coconut palms. Summer fruits like jackfruit and mangoes — including the seeds — were peeled, sliced, and dried for use in curries.
My family still lives in a small village in the north of Goa, in an old Indo-Portuguese house. Back in the 1930s and ’40s, the building had a separate room dedicated to rice. The bhathachim kudd (paddy room) was in the center of the house with no direct access to sunlight, keeping it cool and dark, and had a roughly hewn bamboo structure filled with paddy — rice with husk — from our fields.
“Preparing” has become less a practice than a memory, one looked upon fondly by the older generations.
“We dried the paddy in the sun to prevent insects from eating it, and parboiled it in a bhann [a big copper pot],” says Maryanne Lobo, an Ayurvedic doctor in Goa whose family also had a bhathachim kudd. “Once boiled, we took it to the mill to remove the bran, and stored the rice in a dhond [a barrel-like container].”
Lobo learned about purumenth from her maternal aunt. “She would store jackfruit seeds in a hole dug into the floor. She used the mud from an ant hill to create a well and covered the top with cow dung mixture. This kept the seeds dry and free from insects.” Dried jackfruit seeds were cooked like a vegetable, or added to curries.
Like her aunt, Lobo still stocks up religiously every summer. She doesn’t have a storeroom anymore, so the paddy is dried in her balcony, and she stores her jackfruit seeds in sand. The traditional jars have given way to plastic bottles, and provisions are stocked beneath beds — but still, she says “purumenth was a lifesaver” during the lockdown.
There’s something overwhelming and intoxicating about the smell of dried fish — fierce, pungent, and fermenting. Traditionally, in the monsoon months fishermen could not venture out into the choppy sea, so good fish was scarce. Locally caught fish from rivers and ponds was limited and expensive. People, then, preferred eating kharem (salted fish).
Goa’s typical dried fish stock includes the common mackerel, salted and dried and pickled to become a para with vinegar and masalas; dried shrimp; and prawns — pickled into a tangy molho or balchao, or dried. In the monsoon, this fish forms the accompaniments to a simple lunch of rice and plain curry, or to the mid-morning meal of pez (rice gruel). Dried shrimp becomes kismur — a dry salad made with coconut and tamarind, for which the prawns are roasted over a flame with coconut oil and the para is fried and roasted.
Fish was high on Marius Fernandes’s summer prep this year. Known as Goa’s “Festival Man” — responsible for conducting more than 40 cultural festivals in the region — Fernandes has dedicated his life to promoting the traditional Goan way of life. On lockdown in the small island village of Divar, he spent the summer doing prep under the guidance of his 88-year-old mother, Anna. The family dried and pickled prawns and mackerel, seeds, ripe and raw mangoes, jackfruit, pineapples, and tomatoes. “The situation with regards to sourcing fresh food is only going to get worse in this current situation,” says Fernandes, who has spent much of the last few months in the family garden. “We have to start thinking about growing our own food.”
Like Fernandes, the few who never stopped practicing purumenth are eloquent about its benefits. And those who are rediscovering it now, in response to COVID-19 shortages, are finding that it fits well into the modern ethos surrounding eating. “This is the new gourmet: food that is harvested locally, is seasonal, organic, grown in small batches, with a zero-carbon footprint,” says Cavatina Cucina’s Martins, who became more conscious about his food back in 2018 when the toxic chemical formalin was found in fish and led to a scare in Goa. Today he makes and stores pickles, fish, chiles, and salt.
“Because of the lockdown, we again know about all the wonderful produce available here,” says Fernandes. “Earlier, these would go to markets and supermarkets. Now, we are getting first pick of this locally grown, organic produce.”
Today, my larder in Mumbai has a few traces of purumenth: some salted shrimp and a pack of sausages. There have always been sausages in my kitchen, my way of connecting back to my home in Goa. There’s no need to fight off any crows, though — just my dog, who is equally fascinated by fragrant links of choris.
Joanna Lobo is a freelance journalist from India who enjoys writing about food and its ties to communities, her Goan heritage, and other things that make her happy. Roanna Fernandes is an illustrator from Mumbai.
from Eater - All https://ift.tt/2BRZe54 via Blogger https://ift.tt/2D6Q5Xe
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isprava · 6 years ago
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Native Dishes to Try in Goa
Native Dishes to Try in Goa
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Goa is all about beaches and a buzzing nightlife, yes. But it is also a massive cultural fusion that reflects everywhere, including in its traditional cuisines. Relaying a combination of Portuguese culinary and Mughal flavours merged with Konkan cooking, the plethora of native dishes to try in Goa is one of a kind and definitely irresistible.
Goan Fish Curry
Infused with coconut and red chillies, it is one of the most popular dishes of the coastal town. Served with rice and cooked with fish or prawns, fish curry in Goa is an authentic must-have.
Prawn Balchao
A pickle made with day prawns and Goan spices, prawn balchao is usually served with rotis and is definitely a dish to savour.
Bebinca
Distinct to Goa and incepted by a Goan nun first, Bebinca is a 16 layered cake made of coconut milk, plain flour, sugar and egg yolks. A true sweet masterpiece, as simple as it looks, It is just as tricky to make. Nevertheless, this traditional sweet dish is an absolute delight to the taste-buds.
Pork Vindaloo
A spicy Goan curry with pork, vinegar, garlic and spices, pork vindaloo is a variant of a Portuguese sailor dish that uses red wine instead of palm vinegar. This dish is usually served with rice or flatbreads and is absolutely delectable to eat.
Caldeirada
Again inspired by the Portuguese cuisine, Caldeirada is a fish stew made with varieties of fishes in it. The dish’s flavour is enhanced by white wine, spices, salsa, and potatoes and is a blessing for fish-lovers.
Mussel Rawa Fry
Crunchy and a delicious munching option, Mussel rawa fry is basically mussels deep fried in a rawa batter and served as an appetizer.  A popular dish amongst Goans, once taken a bite off, this is bound to be your go-to finger food too.
Sannas
Also going by the synonym ‘idli’ in the rest of the country, Sannas are the traditional bread substitutes in Goa. Regular accompaniments to curries and other dishes, there is also a sweet variant of these made from jaggery.
An ideal getaway would be a few days spent in our luxury villa in Goa, living the coastal life the Isprava way, and satiating our appetite with these native dishes of Goa. We are sure you will agree, won’t you?
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royale-punjab123 · 5 years ago
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Experience The Taste of India at Royal E Punjab Victoria - AU
Indian food and spices managed to create a special place for it in the international dining world because of its aroma, taste and excellent preparation techniques. There is hardly any foreign destination in this world where there is no restaurant serving Indian food. People of India are spread across the globe, and if being an Indian you are based out in Victoria, Melbourne or are the one who is an Australian resident and in love with India food try dishes at Royal E Punjab reputed Indian Restaurant Brunswick.
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Be it veggie lover or Non Vegetarian dishes, Indian cooks are masters in all, and once you taste it, it will be hard for you to resist. One thing that makes Indian dishes different from the rest cuisines of the world is its application of spices. Yes, Indian food is spicy, but the flavor and taste it offers make it a real wonder. There are some specific Indian on vegetarian dishes which is must to taste and are mostly served in all restaurants which deal with Indian food and have Indian Chefs to assist them.
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Chicken Rogan Josh: To prepare this dish use of chicken fillet is made. Same is cooked with   onion and tomato gravy using Indian spices. This recipe tastes awesome when served with pulao (steamed rice) or Indian bread.
Chicken Butter Cream: This is another fantastic chicken dish which is made out of tandoori roasted chicken which is cooked in mild creamy tomato sauce and authentic Indian spice. You can try out Nan or plain paratha with this dish.
Chicken Saagwala: To prepare this recipe use of fresh spinach creamy sauce this is made by boiling the spinach and then making a paste out of it. Chicken fillets are cooked with creme in the spinach sauce, and it tastes excellent when served with traditional Indian bread.
Chicken Tikka Lahsuni: This is a side or starter dish which is preferred the most with hard drinks or soft drinks. To prepare this dish, the chicken fillet is marinated using yogurt with mild spices. Lahsun is the main ingredients for this recipe, and so a good amount of lahsun or garlic is used in past form at a time of marinating. It is baked in the tandoori oven and served with mint or pudina chutney. A single bite of the chicken will give you a top of the world experience.
Goan Fish Curry: Goa is one of the leading sea side destinations of India and known for its exotic sea food. Fish fillet and mostly of Suraima fish is used in this dish. The fillets are cooked in hot traditional Goan sauce with a pinch of tamarind sauce. It will go well with plain rice. You can find this dish in any reputed Indian restaurant Melbourne.
Garlic Chilly Prawns: Here comes the tiger prawn dish which is an absolute yummy dish from India. The prawns are cooked in garlic, ginger, capsicum and red hot sauce. You will feel like eating more once you taste this dish.
Lamb Do payaza: Use of diced lamb is made in the preparation of the dish. The dish is cooked with onion, capsicum and Indian spices. You can enjoy with Indian Phulka or Nan.
Chicken/Lamb Biryani: This is one such rice dish which is having its origin since the ages of Mughal and their period of ruler ship in India. Here the rice is cooked fragrant spices, cashew nuts, and chicken or Lamb pieces of slightly bigger size. You can take any chicken or lamb side dish to enjoy with this authentic Indian traditional rice.
There are numerous different dishes dishes which are served in the leading and well reputed Indian restaurant Melbourne. Would you like to try them? Go ahead and try them today and we are sure that you will find it as one of the finest cuisines of the world. We will suggest you taste the aromatic and authentic Indian dishes served at The Royal E Punjab, a notable Indian restaurant based out in Brunswick, Victoria, Melbourne.
Royal E Punjab is one of the reputed Indian restaurant Batman, Victoria, melbourne which is known for serving authentic Indian dishes with classical and modern dine in experience. We deliver our food to Batman, Coburg. So you can also Online Indian food Brunswick or Takeaway Indian food delivery Brunswick very easily.
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beach-resorts-in-goa-blog · 5 years ago
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12 Reasons Why Everyone Needs to Visit Goa
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Its an obvious fact that resorts in south goa is a most loved sea shore goal in India. It has a laid-back way of life, hipster vibe, brilliant beautiful sea shores, regular peacefulness, sea shore sports, and great gatherings. It’s an extraordinary goal all year, yet visiting Goa during summer is a serious uncommon encounter. Here are a few motivations to visit Goa this mid year.
Follow through on less expensive costs
The inns and resorts in Goa cut their costs during summer, yet the offices are similarly in the same class as at different seasons. Furthermore, flights to Goa are less expensive. Thus, in the event that you need a lavish occasion on a tight spending plan, head to Goa this mid year.
Appreciate a sentimental night in isolation
Just you, your accomplice and the sun, ocean and sand: sentimental ecstasy! In summer, it’s simpler to catch a table at a sea shore shack to appreciate a sentimental night by flame light, away from prying eyes! Then again, appreciate a tranquil, peaceful nightfall voyage along the Mandovi River.
Absorb the sun on calm sea shores
Scramble toward one of the delightful sea shores of this tropical heaven, sans swarms! Unwind and absorb the Vitamin D on a sun-kissed stretch of sand, or go for a pondering shoeless walk, ideal treatment for your body, psyche and soul. Simply remember to pack your shades and sunblock.
Get high on adrenaline
Water sports certainly shouldn’t be missed out traveling to Goa: parasailing, water skiing, stream skiing, wind surfing, banana vessel ride, scuba plunging, dolphin spotting, swimming… Get prepared for an adrenaline surge!
Shop for deals
With about non-existent groups, the sellers cut the paces of the things so as to make a deal. Shopaholics can fill their packs with Goan claims to fame and trinkets without leaving a lot of a scratch in their pockets. In addition, liquor is likewise modest during this season. More motivations to party until the sun comes up.
Attempt the delightful Goan cooking
An excursion to Goa is deficient without attempting the heavenly neighborhood food: pork vindaloo, Goan fish curry, sorpotel, fish recheado, prawn balchao, bebinca, and obviously, the nearby alcohol, Goan feni… hungry yet?
Mid year celebrations
There are merriments and festivities in Goa all year, yet the long stretches of summer (March-May) throb with cheerful dispositions and vivacity. The best celebrations during this season are Shigmo (March), a road celebration that depicts Goan life through society exhibitions, music, move and marches; Easter (March or April); Grape Escapade (April), a wine celebration; the Goan Food and Music Festival (April), which observes beach resorts in south goa treats and music; the Konkan Fruit Fest (April); India Bike Week (April); and the Goa Heritage Festival (May).
Find shrouded treasures–in harmony
Due to the general shortage of visitors in Goa throughout the mid year, you’ll find the opportunity to investigate a portion of the state’s outside of what might be expected fortunes in harmony. Appreciate the smell of crisp flavors at a zest manor; spend time with elephants at the Jungle Book; appreciate mind blowing perspectives and Portuguese history from Sinquerim Fort; watch Greek exhibitions at Greek eatery Thalassa; investigate compositional marvels at Rivona Caves, Arvalem Caves or Lamgau Caves; attempt backwater kayaking on the Zueri and Nerul Rivers; spot untamed life in nature havens…
Enjoy some spoiling
Innumerable yoga retreats and irregular exercises are hung on the delicate sands of Goa. Patnem Beach in South Goa and Arambol Beach and Mandrem Beaches in North Goa are perfect spots to head in case you’re hoping to join a class. There are likewise various health communities in Goa. These offer a wide range of rest and unwinding, and regularly serve natural suppers to keep you sound and healthy. A couple of brilliant choices incorporate SWAN Yoga Retreat, Banyan Tree Yoga and Vedic Valley. A mind blowing retreat in Goa anticipates you this mid year!
Trek to invigorating cascades and biodiversity hotspots
Trek along the pleasant pathways of the Mahavir Forest Reserve and witness the wonder of the Dudhsagar Falls. Water falls in smooth foam (consequently their name–dudh implies milk). They’re really a sight like no other!
Inferable from its closeness toward the Western Ghats mountain chain, Goa is home to rich and various fauna and verdure. The Bhagwan Mahavir Sanctuary, Mollen National Park, Mhadei Wildlife Sanctuary, Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary and Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary are some must-visit spots.
With insignificant groups, pleasant spots and excellent dawns and nightfalls, Goa is summer is a heaven for shutterbugs. In spite of the fact that the sun is solid in the day, the morning and night shine are a picture taker’s pleasure.
Simple investigation on two wheels
On account of the calmer roads of summer, visiting the entire state by bicycle is simple. Stop any place you need to appreciate sea shore towns, Portuguese-time design and beautiful sea shores. Bicycles are modest to lease, at around INR 175-INR 250 (US$ 2-US$4) every day, and are an ideal method to investigate India’s littlest state.
If you need the best hotel or resort in south Goa then, https://www.planethollywoodgoa.com/ can help you.
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easyfoodnetwork · 4 years ago
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Goa’s monsoon season has long necessitated the practice of purumenth, or stocking up. Today, during the COVID-19 pandemic, it’s a new kind of lifesaver. We were the crow chasers. Armed with rolled-up newspapers and sticks, we three siblings waited on the balcão (balcony) guarding the choris (Goan sausages) that were draped over a bamboo rod perched above the ground. Inside, the family sat on the floor mixing pork with local toddy vinegar, chiles, and spices, stuffing it into a casing of pigs’ intestines. A cotton thread tied off links, forming a meaty necklace dripping with fat and staining everything red. These meat necklaces were our assignment, and they attracted crows by the dozen. The sausages hovered over freshly sourced chiles from different villages, solam (kokum), tamarind, mangoes, and fish, all spread on newspaper or mats woven from coconut palms. The salty aromas, mingled with the afternoon heat, proved irresistible to the birds. Fighting them off on hot summer days was our main source of entertainment during this long and tedious process, and we fought bravely. These items, after all, were important — this was our purumenth, our food for the many rainy days ahead. Purumenth (sometimes spelled purument or purmenth) is the local Konkani corruption of the Portuguese word provimento or provisão, meaning provisions. It is, most simply, the practice of stocking up for times when food is scarce. Goa is a small state on India’s west coast. Ruled by the Portuguese from around 1510 until 1961, Goa today is known for being a popular travel destination thanks to its distinct cuisine, cultural diversity, cheap alcohol (tax rates on booze vary throughout India, and Goa has among the lowest), and beachy, laid-back life compared to cities like Mumbai and Delhi. It’s also known for monsoons. India’s monsoon season follows the hot, dry summer months of April and May and it lasts from June until September. The rain is fickle, alternating between light drizzles and heavy downpours that cause destructive flooding, limiting transportation and the mobility of goods and people — and, historically, making fresh ingredients like produce, meat, and fish scarce. “Until a few decades back, provisions for the rains had to be gathered well in advance as the rains were unpredictable, weather forecasting was unknown, and refrigeration facilities non-existent,” writes historian Fátima da Silva Gracias in her book Cozinha de Goa: History and Tradition of Goan Food. “The whole western coast would batten down the hatches before the monsoons came howling through.” For decades, my family — like many others in villages across the state — would stock up for the harsh and volatile monsoon. Preparations began early, from mid-February onward. April and May, then, were months of abundance, of cheap goods and busyness. Food was procured, cleaned, sun-dried, pickled, and stored. “The whole western coast would batten down the hatches before the monsoons came howling through,” says archaeologist and culinary anthropologist Kurush F. Dalal. “Everybody stocked things on a yearly basis — masala, dals and ghee, pickles, dry fish, salt, and pappad. It wasn’t frugality, but systematic planning to ensure the larder was always full.” Everything had to be ready by mid-May in case of early showers. Those who were unable to prep in time by themselves could stock up at Purumentachem Fests held at the end of May and early June. These fairs were linked to the annual church feasts in the cities of Margao and Mapusa, which, since they occurred around time the monsoons began to sweep in, sold a variety of purumenth staples for last-minute shoppers. For the most part, purumenth is the stuff of culinary history. Over the last few decades, the arrival of refrigerators to store produce, the availability of fresh goods throughout the monsoons, and increased mobility between villages and cities have made stocking up less crucial. Purumenth fairs still occur annually, and locals still stock up on dried fish, rice, vinegar and pickles, but lately they’ve been less driven by necessity than nostalgia — “preparing” less a practice than a memory, one looked upon fondly by the older generations. But then COVID hit. On March 24, Goa, like the rest of India, went into a government-mandated lockdown to curb the spread of COVID-19. The announcement was a surprise and ill-planned, leaving people with no time to prepare. In the initial days, people weren’t allowed to leave their homes; shops and markets were shuttered, and there was no public transportation. In many places, people started rationing meals as supplies started to run out. For the first time in a long time, food was hard to come by. In the villages, elders nodded their heads wisely. It wasn’t the monsoon season yet, but they knew how to deal with this enforced isolation. They had been storing provisions for years and had a diminished but stocked larder. It was our younger generation that struggled, spoiled by abundance of choice and instant gratification, and living in homes where space is too premium to be utilized for storing goods. “Our ancestors were smart enough to live by the seasons. But we’ve become greedy, and our demands have exceeded our supply,” says Avinash Martins, chef and owner of Cavatina Cucina. “Had we to follow our ancestral cycle, we wouldn’t have taken our food for granted.” In the olden days, Goan kitchens had a cow dung-smattered floor and an earthen stove. On a bamboo rod placed high across the kitchen hung local white onions and sausages — the smoke from the fireplace kept the insects away — and most houses had a designated storage area, a secluded corner, the space under the bed or a dark room. This space, while not exactly photogenic, offered a snapshot of summer bounty like cheap fresh fish, mangoes, jackfruit, chiles, and cashews. Here, too, lay all the dried, salted, and cured produce. There was kokum, tamarind balls, whole spices, masalas, and bhornis (porcelain jars) with pickles like chepne tor (flattened raw mangoes in brine). Some families had mitantulem mas — salted pork drained of its water via heavy weights and dried into a jerky of sorts. There was coconut oil and vinegar made from the toddy extracted from the coconut palms. Summer fruits like jackfruit and mangoes — including the seeds — were peeled, sliced, and dried for use in curries. My family still lives in a small village in the north of Goa, in an old Indo-Portuguese house. Back in the 1930s and ’40s, the building had a separate room dedicated to rice. The bhathachim kudd (paddy room) was in the center of the house with no direct access to sunlight, keeping it cool and dark, and had a roughly hewn bamboo structure filled with paddy — rice with husk — from our fields. “Preparing” has become less a practice than a memory, one looked upon fondly by the older generations. “We dried the paddy in the sun to prevent insects from eating it, and parboiled it in a bhann [a big copper pot],” says Maryanne Lobo, an Ayurvedic doctor in Goa whose family also had a bhathachim kudd. “Once boiled, we took it to the mill to remove the bran, and stored the rice in a dhond [a barrel-like container].” Lobo learned about purumenth from her maternal aunt. “She would store jackfruit seeds in a hole dug into the floor. She used the mud from an ant hill to create a well and covered the top with cow dung mixture. This kept the seeds dry and free from insects.” Dried jackfruit seeds were cooked like a vegetable, or added to curries. Like her aunt, Lobo still stocks up religiously every summer. She doesn’t have a storeroom anymore, so the paddy is dried in her balcony, and she stores her jackfruit seeds in sand. The traditional jars have given way to plastic bottles, and provisions are stocked beneath beds — but still, she says “purumenth was a lifesaver” during the lockdown. There’s something overwhelming and intoxicating about the smell of dried fish — fierce, pungent, and fermenting. Traditionally, in the monsoon months fishermen could not venture out into the choppy sea, so good fish was scarce. Locally caught fish from rivers and ponds was limited and expensive. People, then, preferred eating kharem (salted fish). Goa’s typical dried fish stock includes the common mackerel, salted and dried and pickled to become a para with vinegar and masalas; dried shrimp; and prawns — pickled into a tangy molho or balchao, or dried. In the monsoon, this fish forms the accompaniments to a simple lunch of rice and plain curry, or to the mid-morning meal of pez (rice gruel). Dried shrimp becomes kismur — a dry salad made with coconut and tamarind, for which the prawns are roasted over a flame with coconut oil and the para is fried and roasted. Fish was high on Marius Fernandes’s summer prep this year. Known as Goa’s “Festival Man” — responsible for conducting more than 40 cultural festivals in the region — Fernandes has dedicated his life to promoting the traditional Goan way of life. On lockdown in the small island village of Divar, he spent the summer doing prep under the guidance of his 88-year-old mother, Anna. The family dried and pickled prawns and mackerel, seeds, ripe and raw mangoes, jackfruit, pineapples, and tomatoes. “The situation with regards to sourcing fresh food is only going to get worse in this current situation,” says Fernandes, who has spent much of the last few months in the family garden. “We have to start thinking about growing our own food.” Like Fernandes, the few who never stopped practicing purumenth are eloquent about its benefits. And those who are rediscovering it now, in response to COVID-19 shortages, are finding that it fits well into the modern ethos surrounding eating. “This is the new gourmet: food that is harvested locally, is seasonal, organic, grown in small batches, with a zero-carbon footprint,” says Cavatina Cucina’s Martins, who became more conscious about his food back in 2018 when the toxic chemical formalin was found in fish and led to a scare in Goa. Today he makes and stores pickles, fish, chiles, and salt. “Because of the lockdown, we again know about all the wonderful produce available here,” says Fernandes. “Earlier, these would go to markets and supermarkets. Now, we are getting first pick of this locally grown, organic produce.” Today, my larder in Mumbai has a few traces of purumenth: some salted shrimp and a pack of sausages. There have always been sausages in my kitchen, my way of connecting back to my home in Goa. There’s no need to fight off any crows, though — just my dog, who is equally fascinated by fragrant links of choris. Joanna Lobo is a freelance journalist from India who enjoys writing about food and its ties to communities, her Goan heritage, and other things that make her happy. Roanna Fernandes is an illustrator from Mumbai. from Eater - All https://ift.tt/2BRZe54
http://easyfoodnetwork.blogspot.com/2020/08/our-food-for-many-rainy-days-ahead.html
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