#or the one in the jewish museum in Prague

[protect-daniel-james]

Job-related tasks were ridiculous, I hope I don't have to come for the second round honestly (interview). Now onto more football porn.

[mariacallous]

For the first time since World War II, one of Prague’s most historic synagogues has held a Jewish worship service.

Kol Nidre, the introductory service of Yom Kippur, took place in the Klausen Synagogue on Friday night, ending a hiatus that lasted more than 80 years and encompassed both the murder and suppression of Czech Jewry.

Originally erected in 1573 and rebuilt after a fire in 1694, the Klausen Synagogue is the largest synagogue in Prague’s Jewish Quarter and once served as a central hub of Jewish life. It’s known as the home of several prominent rabbis and thinkers, from Judah Loew — a 16th-century Talmudic scholar also known as the Maharal of Prague — to Baruch Jeitteles, a scholar associated with the Jewish Enlightenment movement of the 18th and 19th centuries.

But for more than 80 years after the Holocaust decimated Czech Jews, the Klausen Synagogue held no services.

That was until Friday evening, when about 200 people poured in for a service led by Rabbi David Maxa, who represents Czechia’s community of Progressive or Reform Jews. That community was joined by guests and Jewish tourists from around the world for Yom Kippur, according to Maxa. He saw the moment as a sign of Jewish life resurging in Prague.

“It’s quite remarkable that there is a Yom Kippur service in five historic synagogues in Prague,” Maxa told the Jewish Telegraphic Agency.

Under German occupation in World War II, the Klausen Synagogue was used as a storage facility. Although the Nazis and their collaborators killed about 263,000 Jews who lived in the former Czechoslovak Republic, they took an interest in collecting Jewish art and artifacts that they deemed valuable enough to preserve. The Jewish Museum in Prague was allowed to continue storing those objects, and the synagogue became part of the museum’s depository.

After the war, there were not enough survivors to refill services in the synagogues of Prague. The country became a Soviet satellite in 1948, starting a long era in which Jews were often persecuted and surveilled for following any religious practices. The last Soviet census of 1989 registered only 2,700 Jews living in Czech lands.

“During Communist times, it was very difficult to relate to Jewish identity,” said Maxa. “People who visited any kind of synagogue were followed by the secret police, and only after the Velvet Revolution in 1989 did it become possible for people to visit synagogues without the feeling of being followed and put on a list.”

After the end of communism, some synagogues returned to use by the few Jews who still identified as such. Two of the six synagogues that still stand in the Jewish Quarter now are in regular use as houses of worship.

But the Klausen Synagogue, which was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1982, remained part of the Jewish Museum, hosting exhibitions about Jewish festivals, early Hebrew manuscripts and Jewish customs and traditions.

Museum director Pavla Niklová said returning the synagogue to use for Yom Kippur happened almost by accident. Maxa was asking if she knew about a space large enough to host his growing congregation, Ec Chajim, for the holiest day in the Jewish calendar — its own space, which opened four years ago about a 20-minute walk away, could not accommodate the crowds expected for Yom Kippur.

Since the museum had just taken down its exhibition in the Klausen Synagogue after 28 years, she had an answer. The clean, empty space was ready to be refilled with Jewish life.

Visiting the synagogue just before Yom Kippur, Niklová said she was awed to see the building returned to its original purpose. She hopes that it will continue to be used for large services.

“I felt like the synagogue started breathing again,” she told JTA. “I believe it was a good move to take down the old exhibit, and now we can start anew.”

For many in Prague’s Jewish community, which is largely secular, Yom Kippur is the single most important service of the year. Even Jewish families that suppressed religious practices under Communism often passed on the memory of Yom Kippur, said Maxa.

Maxa founded Prague’s Progressive Jewish community in 2019, responding to a growing number of people who sought to explore their Jewish roots. The community currently has 200 members and adds about five more every month.

“Often, I meet people who simply want to learn about the culture, tradition and religion of their grandparents,” said Maxa. “They say, my grandmother and grandfather were Shoah survivors — can I come and learn more about Judaism? We offer a wide range of activities, including of course regular services, but also educational courses to help these people reconnect with the tradition.”

Maxa, who himself grew up in Prague with little connection to his Jewish roots, wants to revive some of the rituals that threaded through Prague’s pre-war Jewish world — including a tradition of organ accompaniment in the city’s synagogues. On Friday, Jewish organist Ralph Selig performed during his service.

Like many of his congregants, Maxa’s family history intertwines with the losses of the last century. His father came from Prague and survived the Holocaust. He does not know if his father visited the Klausen Synagogue, but he knows it was a familiar part of his world.

“It means a lot for me that the tradition was not exterminated, and that this is coming back, even to a place where no services were held since World War II,” he said.

[mybeingthere]

Tom Seidmann Freud (1892-1930)

Tom Seidmann Freud, nee Martha Freud, a children's book illustrator and author celebrated for her deceptively simple yet modern style. An eccentric niece of Sigmund Freud, she was born in Vienna in 1892 and moved with her family nine years later to Berlin. She was an artistically gifted child, at fifteen changed her name to Tom (allegedly to avoid sexism she might encounter as a female artist). She eventually studied art, first in London and then in Berlin and in Munich, where she focused on Art Nouveau illustration.

From 1914 to her death at thirty-eight in 1930, she published nearly a dozen books of her own and contributed illustrations to others. Today, nearly one hundred years late, her artwork looks surprisingly contemporary with its simple, folk art aesthetic and fantastical story lines about rabbit words, talking fish, and magic boats. Her illustrations are childish but not babyish, and surreal while also being thoughtful and narrative.

Strikingly fresh in its day, Seidmann-Freud's work was an example of how seriously people took children's literature as an art form. While Seidmann-Freud wrote, and illustrated her own stories, she also illustrated classical fairy tales, such as those by Brothers Rimm and Hanns Christian Andersen, in her Ten Tales for Children. She released her most well-known children's book, Die Fishreise (The Fish's Journey), in 1923.

Seidmann-Freud created her illustrations using the ancient pochoir technique that was experiencing a revival. She drew the figures, foreground, and background with ink and then overlaid watercolors using stencils. Seidmann-Freud experimented with several different kinds of children's books, including ABC books, songbooks, game books, and movable books such as Das Wunderhaus (The House of Wonders, 1927) and Das Zauberboot (The Magic Boat, 1929), subtitled "a book to Turn and Move." She also produced a series of counting books known for their typographical innovation, one of which was chosen for the Museum of Modern art's 2012 exhibition Century of the child: Growing by Design, 19000-2000, in New York.

In the early 1920s, she and her husband, writer and journalist Jakob Seidmann, founded publishing house Perergrin Verlag in Berlin. It was named after the main character in The Fish's Journey, who seeks to overcome his outsider status by escaping to a dreamlike utopia. Tragically, the demise of their publishing venture in the wake of 1929 global financial collapse led to her husband's suicide, and in 1930, to her own. (Their seven-year-old daughter, Angela, went to live with Tom's sister, the actress Lily Freud, and her husband in Hamburg, before they all moved to Prague in 1939. Angela, (Aviva) emigrated to Israel just before the outbreak if Word War II).

Seidmann-Freud died the same year that the liberal democracy in Germany, the Weimar Republic, started its frenzied downward descent. Until Hitler took dictatorial control in 1933, her work continued to receive accolades from her peers, including the legendary literary critic and philosopher Walter Benjamin. Because she was Jewish, however, by 1933 her books began to disappear.

Despite the Nazis destruction of "suspect" literature, and her untimely death, copies of her innovative children's books have survived as an important part of the history of avant-garde book-making in twentieth century Europe.

[weimarhaus]

Otto Rudolf Schatz (1900 Wien – 1961 Wien), Kneeling, 1930, Oil on wood, 120 × 92 cm. Via Wien Museum.

Otto Rudolf Schatz was born on January 18, 1900, the son of a post office family in Vienna. From 1915 to 1918 Schatz studied at the Viennese Art Academy under Oskar Strnad and Anton von Kenner. In 1918 his studies were interrupted by military service in the First World War although he graduated in 1919. In 1923 Schatz became friends with the Viennese gallery owner Otto Kallir who became one of his most important patrons. Kallir continuously presented Schatz’s works in the Neue Galerie. In 1927 Schatz contributed woodcuts to the volume The New Town by the Berlin Büchergilde Gutenberg. From 1928 to 1938 he was a valued member in the Hagenbund in Vienna. When the National Socialists gained power in 1938 Schatz was forbidden to work. In 1938 he lived with his Jewish wife Valerie Wittal in Brno and in 1944 in Prague where he painted landscape miniatures. In 1944 Schatz was imprisoned in the Klettendorf labor camp and then transferred to the Graditz and Bistritz concentration camps.

[estera-shirin]

Community Announcement — Luže, modern Czech Republic ca. 1791

According to the museum: "This page which is from Luze [pronounced as Luzhe], was made to notify the Luze Jewish community about who was elected the alms collector for the year 552 [1791]. The character of the document gives evidence of the importance and prestige of the position in the community. The person elected was Juzpa N"Sch (from nearby Neuschloss). The scribe's name is Samuel Dukes. In the Prague Jewish Museum is an almost identical plaque for the year 594 [1793/94], with the same names, and about 10 other ones for various years."

[hasdrubal-gisco]

what are the best things to do in prague as a tourist?

depends how long you're visiting for, and what you normally like to see. writing this with the intent of giving you things to google/pin to your map, hence not going too in-depth on everything.

if 2-3 days such as on an extended weekend or part of a larger eurotrip, i'd say start at national museum, see whatever temporary exhibit they have at the time (which is in the historic building - permanent exhibit is in the former federal parliament building, which is a very good building but gutted inside, and the exhibit is relatively generic) then walk down václavské náměstí, try to take a detour through one of the many passages (fénix, lucerna, světozor), continue down to staroměstské námestí (where orloj is). from there go either jewish quarter and then up to the metronome across the river, or go towards rudolfínum and across the river. kunsthalle is an art gallery with consistently very good exhibits, and it's a good space, worth seeing if you have a mustache (male)/bangs (female). begrudgingly i will admit charles bridge is good to see if you haven't been to prague before, what i like to show people when they visit is a very small pillar (viniční sloup) on the east bank which has the oldest cobble-stones in prague, supposedly dating to the late 1300s. not remarkable to see with your eyes but it doesn't show up on any TOP 10 THINGS TO SEE lists and it's a neat curio. the public transit system can be scary, but you should use metros and trams to get around, even if just for the experience.

for each additional day, you should wander around more, and see these additional things: petřín (get ice-cream from angelato near the enterance to the funicular - which you should take even if the line is very long), prague castle (yes it is rated this low), everyone who has been to the zoo says it is miles better than the zoo in their city (i am myself indifferent to zoos in general), you could see a concert at obecní dům/ballet/opera at national theater if that's your thing - the venues are comparable to those in the rest of austria-hungary, so it depends on what consitututes a "normal" concert hall/theater to you. dancing building by frank gehry, masaryčka by zaha hadid are cool newer buildings to look at. žižkov TV tower is neat, but i'm not sure how much entrance costs. don't eat there !

re: gastro, for czech food i'd say u medvídků and mincovna are a good balance of authentic and interesting. you can get good czech pub food in grimier pubs if you want, maybe better for a longer visit/if you have someone to tourguide you to a local joint. cafe louvre is good, smetanaq on the river if you want gluten free pancakes with microgreens (saying this derisively as if i don't also eat there sometimes). for drinks kavárna na boršově, for light snack out of the center, the cafe of hotel mosaic.

EDIT: gambrinus 12° number 1 beer worldwide

EDIT2: @yugotrash said: dont forget scheduling a day-trip to Kutná Hora to see the bones (author's note: "sedlec" is what you're googling here)

[art-that-fucks-you-up-tournament]

Stats 2: Electric Boogaloo

Our 256 works are comprised of.... 132 paintings, 36 drawings / digital artworks / comics, 26 installation pieces, 20 sculptures, 11 buildings, 11 public artworks, 10 photographs, 4 prints, 3 cave arts, 2 textile arts, and 1 thing I classified as a collage instead of anything else!

More stats below!

Most popular city: New York, with 13 pieces, followed by Paris with 8, and Chicago is third with 7! Washington DC has 6, Florence, Madrid, and London all have 5, Philadelphia has 4, Dublin, Edinburgh, Mexico City each have three, and all the following cities have two: Boston, Cairo, Calgary, Cordoba, Helsinki, Houston, Jerusalem, Los Angeles, Munich, Ottawa, Prague, Vienna, Warsaw

Most popular museum: somehow the Art Institute of Chicago has the most with 6 pieces! Followed by the Museum of Modern Art with 5 pieces! The Museo del Prado has 4, the Philadelphia Museum of Art has 3, and the Ateneum, Louvre, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Museo Dolores Olmedo, National Gallery of Canada, Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, Tate Britain, Tretyakov Gallery, and the Uffizi Gallery each have 2! In addition, the single works are spread out amongst 16 city level galleries (ie the Phoenix Art Museum), 5 state/provincial (ie Queensland Art Gallery), 25 national (ie National Gallery Prague), 8 museums named after benefactors (ie the Hirshhorn Museum), 7 museums dedicated to a specific artist (ie the Van Gogh Museum) and numerous other institutions! Churches, palaces, increasingly specific museums, museums that are named after their location rather than their governmental level... and of course a whole lot of private collections and pieces we were unable to find the location of!

Countries! 50 pieces are in the US! 13 in France! 12 in Spain! 7 in England, 6 in Canada and Italy, 5 in Russia, 4 in Ireland, Mexico, and Australia, 3 each in Germany, Austria, and Scotland, and 2 each in China, the Netherlands, Israel, Finland, Wales, Poland, Japan, Egypt, and India, and 1 each in Portugal, Ecuador, Thailand, Singapore, Belgium, Argentina, Sweden, the Czech Republic, Norway, Bangladesh, Saudi Arabia, and the Vatican!

Demographics! I revoked John Singer Sargents American status for these because he was born in Europe, and spent most of his life travelling around Europe. I tried my best to track down the correct numbers but honestly some of these are likely to be slightly off. I went with easily publicly available information like Wikipedia and where that failed the author's website. I also tracked people's birth countries in addition to where they lived / worked for most of their lives. Anyway! We have 74 pieces by American artists! 27 French, 22 English, 14 Russian, 13 Spanish, 11 Canadian, 9 Italian, 8 Chinese, 8 German, 6 Irish, 6 Polish, 6 Mexican, 5 Greek (four of those are Ancient Greece), 5 Ukrainian, 5 Japanese, 4 Australian, 4 Belgian, 4 Indian, 3 Serbian, 3 Armenian, 3 Dutch, 3 Austria, 3 Latvian, 3 Swedish, 2 each from Finland, Scotland, Malaysia, Cuba, the Czech Republic, and Norway, and one each from Israel (specifically), Portugal, Ecuador, Thailand, Switzerland, Denmark, Iran, Colombia, Chile, Estonia, and Egypt (albeit Ancient Egypt)

Including the one Israeli artist, we have 7 Jewish artists represented, as well as 4 Black, 6 Indigenous (one is half Kichwa, one is Sami, one is Haida, one is Ojibwe, and two are Australian Aboriginals. One of those is Kokatha and Nukunu, and the other one was a group project with eight artists who did the majority of the work, and 6 of those are from Erub Island but the articles did not specify further except that at least one of the eight is non-Indigenous), 1 Chicana, and 1 Asian-American (which I am specifying because I felt very stupid adding tallies to an Asian column when I already said there are 8 Chinese artists and 5 Japanese and 2 Malaysians and....). We also do have 16 artists that publicly identify as queer in some fashion! I have listed 9 works by gay men, 2 works by lesbians, and 5 that have chosen to use "queer" instead of other labels.

And on that note.... we have 155 works by men, 51 by women, and 2 by nonbinary artists!

Most represented artists! Frida Kahlo and René Magritte tied with four works each! Félix González-Torres, Francisco Goya, John Singer Sargent each have three! And the artists that have 2 artworks each are... Claude Monet, Dragan Bibin, Edmund Blair Leighton, Francisco de Zurbarán, Gustav Klimt, Holly Warburton, Hugo Simberg, Ilya Repin, Ivan Aivazovsky, Jacques-Louis David, Jenny Holzer, Louis Wain, Pablo Picasso, Sun Yuan & Peng Yu, Victo Ngai, Vincent van Gogh, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, and Leonardo da Vinci (although the second is debated attribution)! That means that 205 of the works are not by any of the above! Some have unknown artists (we've got THREE CAVE ARTS) but most are just... really varied!

And lastly, years painted (as sorted by year finished and not year started). Who else loves when something is listed as "13th century"?? Not me, that's who. This is going to be a lot of numbers, and there's no real way to make it more readable. so..... feel free to skip!

The oldest two submissions are from circa 40,000 years before present, and 30 to 32 thousand years before present! Six more artworks came to exist before 0 (CE or AD depending on who you're talking to), and 7 before 1000! 2 from the 1200s, 6 from the 1400s, 8 from the 1500s, 3 from the 1600s, and 5 from the 1700s! Several of those already listed were started in a previous ....age category (for instance, one has no specified date other than 7300 BC to 700 AD) but once we hit 1600, everything is usually finished in a relatively short timespan. 6 are from 1800-1850, 9 from 1850-1880, and the 1880s are extremely busy. 1 from 1881, 3 from 1882, 1 from 1883-1885, 5 from 1886, and two each from the next four years (1887-1890)! 6 from 1891-1895, and 5 from 1896-1900!

We've got 3 from 1901 or 1902, 4 from 1903, two each from 1906 and 1907, and one each from 1908 and 1909! 3 from 1910-1915, 3 from 1917, 2 from 1918 and one from 1919! 6 are from the Roaring Twenties, three of them specifically from 1928! 4 from 1931-1935, and only 3 from the latter half of the 30s! There's 3 from WWII, and 4 from 1946-1949, 5 from 1951-1954 but only 3 from '55-'59. 5 from the sixties, 7 spread out through the 70s, and 10 from the 80s, two each from 81, 82 and 84. The 90s have a lot of duplicate and triplicate years, totaling 20 overall! 11 are from 90-95, the other 9 are 96-99. 7 from 2001-2005, and 8 from 2006-2009. 9 from 2010-2014, 3 from 2015, 6 from 2016, 5 from 2017, 1 from 2018, 3 from 2019, 5 from 2020, 1 from 2021, 4 from 2022, 11 from 2023, and 3 ongoing projects! Whew! If anyone wants it listed By Year instead of in groups like this, that'll be most readable in like... list form and that's way too long for a stats post.

Congrats on making it to the end! If you got this far, uh, let me know if you want to see the spreadsheet after the tournament, I guess. I'm very proud of it.

[gouldblogger]

A collection of children's drawings made from 1943 to 1944 as part of drawing classes taught by FRIEDL DICKER-BRANDEIS in the Terezín Ghetto. All children was made to sign the paintings with their own names.

[Courtesy of Jewish Museum in Prague's archives - click here for each drawing's details]

Note on context:

"I remember thinking in school how I would grow up and would protect my students from unpleasant impressions, from uncertainty, from scrappy learning," Friedl Dicker-Brandeis wrote to a friend in 1940. "Today only one thing seems important -- to rouse the desire towards creative work, to make it a habit, and to teach how to overcome difficulties that are insignificant in comparison with the goal to which you are striving."When she composed that letter, Dicker-Brandeis, a Bauhaus-trained artist and a Viennese Jew, had fled Nazi-occupied Austria and had been living in the Czech countryside for two years. The artistic world in which she had thrived had been decimated by a new political order that had no room for Jews or Bauhaus utopian notions. In 1942 she was incarcerated at Theresienstadt, a concentration camp built in the town of Terezin, not far from Prague. There she persisted in pursuing her goal -- "to rouse the desire towards creative work." Dicker-Brandeis, the subject of a show opening at the Jewish Museum today, spent the last two years of her life convincing children at Theresienstadt that art could help them withstand, if not overcome, unfathomable misery. As they waited for early death, she taught them to draw. She treated this not as a distraction but as a calling. She graded their work in several areas (dimension, color) and provided rigorous instruction.

from Keeping creativity alive, even in hell, written by Julie Salamon for the New York Times, September 10th 2004

[pargolettasworld]

On this fine spring day, I am reminded of the importance of poetry translators, and how little attention we pay to this most difficult of translation jobs. Still working on this piece about art song and the Holocaust, and I've gotten to the part where I'm talking about Lori Laitman's setting of Pavel Friedmann's "The Butterfly." It's important that Laitman was working from an English translation of the poem, which meant that I had to find out who translated it (from Czech, in case you're wondering; the Jewish Museum in Prague has a scan of the original typescript). It came from Hana Volavková's collection I Never Saw Another Butterfly, but of course, most focus is on the murdered poets rather than the translator.

It took far longer than I expected to track down the name of the translator. In the process, I discovered that the 1978 Schocken Books printing was not the first English publication of I Never Saw Another Butterfly. There was an earlier version, put out by McGraw-Hill in 1971. And, on the very last page, in teeny-tiny type, I finally found the name of the translator.

Jeanne Němcová is the one who brought Pavel Friedmann's words to the English-speaking world (along with the words of several other murdered children of Terezín). We owe her a debt of gratitude.

[alex-johnson1]

Top Things to Do in Prague: A Perfect Guide to Explore the City

Introduction: Prague, often called the "City of a Hundred Spires," is one of Europe’s most charming destinations. Rich in history, culture, and beauty, the city offers something for every kind of traveler. Whether you're a history buff, art lover, or foodie, Prague has plenty of activities and sights to keep you engaged. Here’s a guide to the top things to do in Prague, ensuring that your visit is unforgettable!

1. Explore Prague Castle

Prague Castle, the largest ancient castle in the world, is an iconic symbol of Czech history and architecture. Wander through its courtyards, explore the Gothic-style St. Vitus Cathedral, and enjoy the panoramic views of the city from the castle grounds. A visit to the Golden Lane is also a must for history enthusiasts.

2. Walk Across Charles Bridge

One of Prague's most recognizable landmarks, the Charles Bridge connects Old Town with Lesser Town and is lined with statues of saints. Stroll across the bridge at sunrise or sunset to avoid the crowds and enjoy stunning views of the city’s skyline.

3. Visit Old Town Square and Astronomical Clock

The Old Town Square is the heart of Prague, surrounded by colorful buildings and historic churches. Don’t miss the famous Prague Astronomical Clock—the oldest astronomical clock in the world that puts on a show every hour with its mechanical performance.

4. Discover the Jewish Quarter

The Jewish Quarter (Josefov) is home to several significant sites, including the Old Jewish Cemetery and the Spanish Synagogue. This area tells the poignant history of Prague's Jewish community, making it a fascinating visit for those interested in history and culture.

5. Enjoy a Vltava River Cruise

Take a relaxing boat ride along the Vltava River to see some of Prague's most iconic landmarks from the water, including Prague Castle and Charles Bridge. It's a unique way to experience the city’s beauty.

6. Explore Wenceslas Square

Located in the New Town, Wenceslas Square is a bustling area filled with shops, cafes, and restaurants. It’s also home to the National Museum and is historically significant, being the site of many important events, including the Prague Spring protests.

7. Experience Czech Food and Beer

No trip to Prague is complete without tasting local dishes like svíčková (marinated beef in creamy sauce) and goulash. Pair your meal with a pint of the world-famous Czech beer. Visit one of the many traditional pubs for an authentic experience.

Conclusion:

From medieval castles to vibrant squares, there’s no shortage of incredible things to do in Prague. Whether you're exploring the Prague Castle, walking across the Charles Bridge, or indulging in local cuisine, you’ll find endless opportunities to fall in love with this stunning city. Plan your trip to Prague today and make memories that will last a lifetime!

[alexracheltravel]

Day Six: This One's for the Books!

So if you know Rachel and Alex, you know literature is part of their, our, lives. It's who we are as people. We live based on the stories that come before us. So, today, we hung around the city center and did a lot for the literature that came before us.

We had breakfast at home. The other day we bought some lox from the grocery store and had it on toast with aioli and seasoning. Yum! Then we made our way up and out to the city center. It may be a strange thing for you all to hear, but we went to the National Library of Stockholm. Now, you all know we live near the library. And Alex visits it on a weekly basis. The National Library is one of the biggest in the world, and aims to collect ALL of Sweden's works. And based on what we saw, they're succeeding. The building is over a century old, but modern on the inside, and has spaces to check books, to study, and observe periodicals. There's even a bit of history sprinkled throughout.

But one of the coolest assets of the library was seeing a national treasure of Sweden: the Codex Gigas. The name is rather cool, no? It's also called "the devil's Bible," based on some of the illustrations. It's a Bible, dating back to the 14th century, and it was written in Bohemia, not far from Prague, acquired during one of the medieval wars. But what makes this such a remarkable book is the illuminations along the manuscript as well as the literal size of the book. I mean, it's called the Codex GIGAS for a reason!

Dats a big book!

We had a ton of fun at the library and walked to the Östermalm Food Hall right after. This place is world-famous, and Anthony Bourdain went here the one time he went to Sweden. But we didn't get anything here. Ok, we got a cinnamon bun. But the restaurant was pricey and we thought we might come back here tomorrow or Friday and buy some stuff to cook. Alex got some ideas cooking!

We ended up getting some simple street food and sausage sandwiches. But they were so tasty! Rachel had a sausage and sauerkraut sandwich, and Alex got one with mashed potatoes and a bit of shrimp salad. This was a bizarre little dish but we might get it again before we go!

Of course we also checked out a bookstore that sold used books, but most of it was in Swedish so we left empty handed.

And that ended our morning. Rachel had to go to work, which meant it was...

Alex Fika Time

I walked outside and brushed my greasy hair off of my glasses. Today would be the day I really begin to work on my novel! But what to write about? Now, I have two great ideas: one a take on anime in Brooklyn, and one about the modern young Jewish person. Both, if successful, are Pulitzer-level good. But, which to focus my energy on? Unsure, I decided to get some inspiration by visiting the August Strindberg museum.

August Strindberg! There was a man's man! Married multiple times! Published fiction, poetry, and theatre! I learned that he was truly an artist. Who cares that he was divorced so much! Who cares that he alienated everyone around him with his virulence towards women and Jews and people of other races! He was a genius! I walked around the museum, which didn't have all the works translated in English, but that was fine, because I could feel his works, because like him, I am a writer and writers speak the language of the soul. Also, I used Google translate. The museum had his apartment recreated, which was cool. It showed that a great artist like Strindberg was divorced and could still be successful in a squalid, tiny apartment that didn't even have a kitchen! I knew that by reading The Father or Miss Julie or The Red Room my problems would then be solved and I could finally begin my great American novel. I was so excited that I ran out of the Strindberg Museum and got myself a coffee and began to write.

Eventually, I got bored. I decided to go see a film near the AirBnB that also sold drinks. I had a few wines and a pizza and watched an indie film. I wondered if I would be better as a screenwriter. But who knows! My calling is for the written word, and the medium in which it is written is no such trial! I ate my pizza and drank my wine and gazed out into the sunset, yelling at the sky, daring the sun to set, as I wrote the first sentence of my novel and then realized I had to return home to my wife.

On my way home I saw someone had strung up some lace on the bridge that read "gor din grej." I looked it up on the way home. It means:

Do your thing.

-

When Alex got back, he watched the England/Netherlands match while Rachel finished up work.

Alex: So, Rach, I feel like we could live here, dont you think?

Rachel: Absolutely! It's the first country I've been to that I could immediately imagine living in and learning the language of.

Alex: When I went to the movie theater I looked at the Swedish menu before someone asked if I wanted to see the English one and I could get about half of what it said without translation. That's pretty good after just a few days here don't you think? Even at the Strindberg museum, which most of the signage wasn't translated, I read the Swedish and did my best to think of what the words meant. Some of the words are very similar in both languages.

Rachel: I learned how to say grilled sausage today when I almost ordered what I didn't want! And I only learned because the cook at the restaurant serving us didn't know a ton of English, which helped me to learn!

Alex: I really liked our lunch today. It was cheap, fast, and tasty. I feel like we're up to the point where it's almost time to hit the highlights. If you had to get anything a second time, where would you go?

Rachel: Hasselsson's fried fish, absolut, or Herman's for vegan lunch.

Alex: I like that. I would say Strömming in Gamla Stan and either Herman's or maybe Portal. I didn't think it was so great at first, but the thought of the food has really stuck with me over the past few days. Moreso than last night's meal.

Rachel: I hear that!

[roomchailimited]

Baroque Splendor: Discovering Vienna and Prague with Roomchai's Schengen Tours

Embarking on a journey from Dhaka to the heart of Europe, I was excited to explore the Baroque wonders of Vienna and Prague. These two cities, rich in history and culture, offered an enchanting escape from the everyday. With Roomchai’s Schengen Tours, my trip was well-organized and immersive, providing a seamless travel experience.

Vienna: A Symphony of Elegance

Palatial Grandeur

Vienna, the city of music and imperial majesty, was my first stop. Schönbrunn Palace, with its stunning architecture and meticulously landscaped gardens, was a highlight. Walking through the grand halls, adorned with intricate frescoes and opulent chandeliers, I could almost hear the echoes of the Habsburg dynasty.

The Hofburg Palace, the former imperial winter residence, was equally impressive. The Sisi Museum and the Imperial Apartments provided fascinating insights into the lives of Austria’s royalty. Exploring the palace grounds, I felt a deep connection to the rich history that shaped this magnificent city.

Artistic and Musical Heritage

Vienna's reputation as a cultural hub was evident in its vibrant arts scene. The Belvedere Palace, home to Gustav Klimt’s famous painting "The Kiss," was a treasure trove of Austrian art. The MuseumsQuartier, one of the largest cultural complexes in the world, offered diverse exhibitions ranging from contemporary art to classical masterpieces.

A visit to the Vienna State Opera was a dream come true. The acoustics and performances were unparalleled, transporting me into a world of musical brilliance. Attending a concert in the Musikverein, where the Vienna Philharmonic performs, was another unforgettable experience.

Culinary Indulgence

Vienna’s culinary scene was a delightful exploration of flavors. Traditional dishes like Wiener Schnitzel and Apfelstrudel were must-tries. The city’s coffeehouse culture was an integral part of my experience. Enjoying a melange and a slice of Sachertorte at Café Sacher was a perfect way to soak in the Viennese atmosphere.

Prague: The Enchanted City

Historical Charm

Arriving in Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, I was immediately captivated by its fairy-tale charm. The Old Town Square, with its colorful Baroque buildings and the iconic Astronomical Clock, was a bustling hub of activity. Exploring the narrow, winding streets, I discovered hidden gems around every corner.

Majestic Castles and Bridges

Prague Castle, overlooking the city from its hilltop perch, was a highlight of my visit. The grandeur of St. Vitus Cathedral, with its Gothic spires and beautiful stained glass windows, was awe-inspiring. The castle’s Golden Lane, with its tiny, colorful houses, provided a glimpse into medieval life.

The Charles Bridge, spanning the Vltava River, was a magical experience. Lined with statues of saints, the bridge offered stunning views of the city’s skyline. Walking across the bridge at sunset, with the city bathed in golden light, was a moment of pure enchantment.

Rich Cultural Tapestry

Prague’s rich cultural heritage was evident in its numerous museums and galleries. The National Gallery, the Museum of Decorative Arts, and the Jewish Museum each offered unique perspectives on the city’s history and artistic achievements. The city’s vibrant music scene, showcased in venues like the Prague National Theatre, added to the cultural feast.

Comparing Travel Agencies

While Roomchai offered an exceptional travel experience, it's worth noting that other Bangladeshi travel agencies like ShareTrip and Go Zayaan also provide excellent services for European tours. These agencies offer a variety of packages, catering to different preferences and ensuring that travelers from Bangladesh have a wealth of options for their European adventures.

Conclusion

My journey through Vienna and Prague with Roomchai's Schengen Tours was an unforgettable exploration of Baroque splendor and cultural richness. These cities, with their imperial palaces, vibrant arts scenes, and historical charm, offered a perfect blend of old-world elegance and modern vitality. If you dream of experiencing the grandeur of Europe, Vienna and Prague are waiting to enchant you with their timeless beauty and captivating stories.

[umichenginabroad]

Week 6: Peaked (literally)

Welcome back to my blog! I'm a bit behind so I'll be posting weeks 7-9 within the next few days as well :) Thanks for your patience, life abroad gets busy real quick!

CSE UAO visitors

This week we had visitors from the University of Michigan CSE UAO, IPE, and CGIS offices! All the students in the program were able to chat with them about how things are going in Prague, in terms of academics, accommodations, social life, and anything else relevant to our well-being here. I’d like to give a special shoutout to Julie and Shelby from the CSE Undergraduate Advising Office (UAO) for making the trip! I’ve been looking forward to their visit and was so thrilled to catch up with them both :) For those of you who may not know, I worked as a CSE Peer Advisor this past semester and absolutely loved my role in supporting other CSE students and helping out around the office. I highly admire all of the UAO staff for their kindness and dedication to bettering the CSE community, and Julie and Shelby are a prime representation of their hard work. Also a shoutout to all the visitors for conveying some of our concerns to the IFSA staff, particularly in regards to our Spring Break (which was more like a singular day off) and our exam accommodations in Prague. We now have an extra day off of school, making our break a 5 day weekend! Also, we have more clarity from our professors on what to expect from our midterms and exams here, due to mandatory practice exams and added transparency in format and grading. Thank you all, we’re happy you came and glad you made it back safely!

Vyšehrad

I showed my dad around Vyšehrad hill, which was the location of our first architecture tour. Situated next to the Vltava and Botič river valley, Vyšehrad is very strategically located for defending Prague, and was first incorporated into Prague’s medieval defense scheme by King Charles IV. Following the siege of the Swedish forces at the end of the Thirty Years’ War in 1648, Emperor Ferdinand III began to fortify Prague, including transforming Vyšehrad into a formidable fortress. In an earlier blog, I wrote about two churches within the fortress, a rotunda and basilica, with rich architecture and even richer history. This time, I’m going to focus on new sites & views within the walls that I found while exploring with my dad! 

First we explored the Vyšehrad Cemetery, the resting place of some of the most influential people in Prague’s history. Within we found the graves of political figures, musicians, composers, artists, priests, reformers, and more. Notably, I found the grave of Milada Horakova, a Czech politician, a women’s rights activist, and an anti-Nazi and democratic resistance leader, which was special because I did a presentation on for my Essential Czech class. Her grave is pictured below (with flowers).

Next we peeked into an old bunker (bottom right photo) that used to be a food cellar for the royals of the first ruling dynasty in Bohemia, but is now a museum. After, we climbed the hill adjacent to the old residence and the views of Prague (the two photos on the left side) were immaculate. It was peak daylight and there was clear visibility for miles, offering the most amazing views of the Vltava river and the bridges that span it. We ended our visit at one of the coffee shops atop Vyšehrad and got some crepes and coffee before parting ways.

Josefov (Jewish Quarter)

One of the most significant places that my dad and I visited was Josefov, the historical Jewish Quarter of Prague. Dating back to the 10th century, Prague's Jewish community is one of the oldest in Europe. The Jews flourished for centuries here, despite facing persecutions and pogroms before emancipation, and their community contributed significantly to the city's cultural, economic, and intellectual landscape.

To buy tickets we visited the Jewish Museum and got entry to 7 sites as well as an audio guided tour to supplement our visit. Josefov is home to several beautifully preserved synagogues. Among the most notable are the Old-New Synagogue, which is Europe's oldest active synagogue, and the Spanish Synagogue, renowned for its stunning interior (pictured on the bottom left). 

We also visited the Old Jewish Cemetery, which is among the oldest surviving Jewish burial grounds in the world. It was the only place Jews were allowed to bury their people for centuries, so the site is unique for its multiple visible layers of graves. It was quite surreal to see in person.

AnonymouS Bar

Lydia’s best friend Courtney was visiting this week too, so we headed to the infamous Anonymous Bar for drinks Thursday evening. This bar is a hidden gem with a V for Vendetta-inspired interior and employees wearing Guy Fawkes masks. They offer cocktails served in a unique style corresponding to the name of the drink. The drinks pictured on the bottom left are fixed on knife platters, but other drinks we ordered were served on infusion stands and another featured a whole show tossing around a drink lit on fire! They even offered me a separate non-alcoholic anonymous menu since I wasn’t drinking that night, and they were absolutely incredible. Way better than the alcoholic ones in my opinion. The staff was great the entire night and let us stay past our 2-hr reservation time with a mini bribe. I definitely recommend making a reservation if you come to Prague.

Tram interaction

This week, a Czech woman approached me on the subway with a question in Czech. She had asked if we had arrived at Můstek, and I responded with, “Ne, příští stanice Můstek.” She replied “Děkuju!” and sat back down with a smile on her face. Though simple, our brief exchange felt like my first step towards becoming a true local. She not only understood me, but replied in Czech! Acknowledging my progression with the language has been a motivating factor to engage in more local interactions. 

Switzerland

This weekend my dad and I went to Switzerland, which was absolutely incredible. We flew into Zurich on Thursday night as I scrambled to finish up an assignment due at 11:59pm (I turned it in at 12:04… but my prof was nice and didn’t mark it late :) )

On Friday, we spent the morning in Lucerne, which is a beautiful, quaint little town in between Zurich and Interlaken. We got brunch and walked along the water, then drove to Interlaken where we would be spending the next two days! The drive is known to be incredibly scenic, and did not disappoint. After arriving, we checked into our hotel and immediately went for a walk to try and beat the sunset. After wandering for ~45 minutes, we found ourselves an insane viewpoint at an old amusement park and playground. We climbed a random tower to get the views and met these two American students at the top! They were studying in Florence but were here for the weekend as well. I’m sure you could tell by now that my dad and I never shy around talking to strangers :) Afterwards, we got dinner which was arguably the most amazing pasta I’ve had in my life. Bold statement, I know.

On Saturday, we planned to hike Harder Kulm, a mountain peak overlooking the city of Interlaken and its two lakes. It was a pretty steady incline, but we were cruising for the first hour and a half or so. At about the halfway mark my dad told me to continue without him. He’s in decent shape, undoubtedly great for his age, but he had taken a break from running recently so I guess the fatigue hit him hard. I continued to climb and after reaching the first peak, I set out for the tippity top of the mountain. There was a point in the second half of the hike where I truly hadn’t seen a human for about an hour, and there was a lot of snow on the ground so it was hard to see the trail markers, but I kept climbing (with caution). Right as I’m considering turning around, I hear a couple of voices ahead of me so I hurry my step. On the last switchback of the hike, I catch up to a group of 3 other American students studying abroad and, together, we peak the mountain. At the top we got to know each other a bit. They are studying in Geneva, another city in Switzerland, and were also here for the weekend. I ended up spending the next 4 hours or so with them, chatting and making our way down the mountain. It’s crazy how much we ended up having in common. One of the students goes to WashU and knew one of my camp friends and another was in Cape Town at the same time I was this summer! The world really is so small. The hike was also a race trail closer to the bottom, so we picked up the pace and started running down the mountain. This may sound cheesy but I cannot remember a time where I had felt so free. We had hiked around 12 miles by the time we reached the bottom, and had climbed over 4000 feet. I got their instagrams before parting ways, and I plan to keep in touch through social media. Maybe we’ll meet again someday!

Sunday was a bit rainy but my dad and I found a hotel spa to spend the day at. I definitely needed to chill after yesterday, and found myself immersed in salt baths overlooking the cliffs I had recently climbed. Afterwards, I laid in the sauna and washed off in the shower. It was an extremely tranquil experience and perfect before heading to the Zurich airport and eventually back to Prague.

Now again, let me share some ins (what’s working for me) and outs (what has brought me difficulty).

Ins:

Clarifying relationships: Ummm so my dad and I have now been mistaken as a cross-generational couple on numerous occasions, so he began introducing me as his daughter in pretty much every new place or situation we find ourselves in. This has helped us avoid any more humbling and extremely awkward encounters with strangers and their assumptions.

Suiss Chocolate: On a lighter note, the chocolate in Switzerland is to die for. We flew SwissAir in and out of Zurich and they give chocolates as their in-flight snack. Even that was incredible. My dad and I couldn’t help ourselves but to stop at every chocolate shop we passed to sample and make a purchase.

Wandering: Simply wandering around without any strict agenda in new places led to some of our best experiences. From stumbling upon the seemingly abandoned viewpoint on Friday to the new group of friends I met on Saturday’s hike, core memories were made. Highly recommend just living in the present.

Outs:

Staying in touch: I’ve realized how little time I’ve had to catch up with a lot of my friends both in the states and abroad while I’ve been in Prague. By no means is this purposeful or a reflection of how much I think of or care about them, but it’s definitely gotten worse as I’ve begun to travel more. Hopefully this is something I can work on in the coming weeks.

Alcohol: I realized I’ve taken a break from drinking this week, and will likely continue to in the upcoming weeks.

That’s all for now, thanks for reading!

Na shledanou,

Reese Liebman

Computer Science and Engineering

Institute for Study Abroad (IFSA) CS Tech Career Accelerator in Prague, Czechia

[lowryinbohemia]

Prague - Day 3

Another beautiful day in The City of a Thousand Spires! The day started with us traveling up to the other side of the river to visit the Prague Palace and surrounding monastery. We got to see some beautiful vistas and views of the whole city, as well as get to see some of the old areas of the town that have been walked by various politicians & royalty. We also got to see the area known as “The Gate to Hell” where a prince’s mother once allegedly was dragged to hell because she cursed out the Almighty when her driver was trying to pray. This is of course a legend, but it is a GOOD one. We also got to see members of the castle band, on their way to preform.

We then made our way to the castle, and especially the Viritus Cathedral. The castle has its own set of guards, their uniforms designed by Theodore Pištêk, the Oscar winning costume creator for the movie “Amadeus”, and the choreography of the changing of the guard developed by Miloš Forman, who choreographed “Hair”. We did not get to go into the castle but we did get to go inside the cathedral. The stained glass was utterly gorgeous (as to be expected) and it was so cool to see how the cathedral has grown and developed through the ages. The gargoyles were pretty cool to see as well, even more fun than the ones I used to see outside the National Cathedral in DC.

We took the longer way through towards lunch, getting to walk through some beautiful gardens, including one with a koi pond in the middle. There were peacocks walking around the gardens, who were very pleased to be appreciated by passerby’s. After a filling lunch, we made our way towards the Charles Bridge, and in doing so passed by the John Lennon wall. I had only read about this piece of artwork but seeing it in person was seriously really cool. Especially to see all the different messages and artwork from the years layered on top creating a unique mosaic of statements of goodwill and love. Mom of course had to get a picture of me in front of it; its only fair since I’ve loved The Beatles since I was in the womb.

The afternoon saw us on a tour of the Jewish Quarter of the city. I was very excited to see this area of the town because I had read stories of the strength of the Czech people during WWII and I also wanted to see some of the synagogues of the area. My mother & I are not Jewish but some of the people we have loved the best are Jewish & we have been honored to witness some of the Jewish traditions throughout the years. The focus of the tour spoke on the struggles of the Jewish community prior to WWII and during it, and then the effects of the rise of communism in the area. Turns out that due to the collection of interconnected synagogues in the city, along with the memorial stones (called “Stumbling Stones”) along the streets of the quarter, make Prague the location of the largest Jewish museum in the world & the largest Holocaust Memorial in the world. We got to visit some gorgeous synagogues, two which are still active & holding routine prayer services. The highlight was getting to visit the Old-New Synagogue, the oldest synagogue in all of Central Europe. In one of the the non-active synagogues, it was created into a memorial of the all of the names of Jews lost in the Holocaust that lived in the area previously known as Czechoslovakia, which we found out also contained the names of the grandparents of Madeline Albright. Upstairs was a collection of children’s artwork that have been preserved from art therapy sessions given to the children of the Terezin ghetto, as a way for the children to process the changes in the world around them and find hope even in what could be construed as ultimate darkness. As someone who has used art as a way to help her own clients heal and find meaning in their complicated world, seeing all the beautiful pieces of artwork just reminded me how powerful visual media can be for someone so young.

After the tour Mom & I made our way back to the hotel and later out to grab some pizza at a nearby restaurant with our companions on the Jewish Quarter tour. A long day, but so incredibly interesting.

Tomorrow we head to Česky Krumlov, which I hear will be absolutely gorgeous. So I say farewell for now & I will report back again tomorrow evening!

Lowrs💜

[fitzrove]

Hehe, time to reveal the answer...

The incorrect "fact" is the skull thing!! Rudolf did both 1) grave rob in Egypt (he talks about this in Orientreise) 2) keep a human skull on his desk (it's displayed at the Vienna furniture museum and Mary mentions it in a letter), but there is no indication that it was the same skull - in fact iirc the desk skull was a gift from a scientist.

I'm surprised that bird paintings and sleeping on the floor were so frequently voted as false, I feel like I talk about them a lot because they're some of my favourite facts... xD Guess I have to bring them up even more >:))

Sources for the true statements:

The story about his crush dying (a Jewish girl in Prague), which 2 people voted to be the false fact, is often repeated in biographies; here's Hamann

Rudolf's tendency to rant (voted false by absolutely nobody xD) is well-documented in Stéphanie's autobiography, Marie Valerie's diary & some other accounts (my favourite is Carl Khevenhüller's from July 1879, which I often repeat lol - taken from Hamann)

Hamann, again, talks about the bribery story (voted false by 3 people) - the target was a German nationalist called Engelbert Pernerstorfer who had harshly criticised some of Rudolf's cousins (... for things that they did actually do lol)

Bird paintings, despite being voted false by 5 people, are real!!!! I went there once >:) It's the Schönbrunn Kronprinzenappartement, which is where Rudolf always stayed when he was at that palace, from childhood. (There is also a Gisela apartment for his sister, which had similar paintings). Here's one of Rudolf's rooms:

Arson story (voted false by 4 people) is sadly real... it's the most what the absolute fuck one of these because. girliepop why would you do that XD

Rudolf's approach to ornithology was very much of the "shoot first ask questions about taxonomy later" variety xD This is visible in both his Orientreise accounts and this note by Hamann:

Really surprised that the daughter story is not more widely believed, voted false by 7 people!! Even though the relationship soured later, Rudolf actually liked Stephanie initially (even though he didn't treat her the best, he pretty much had mistresses all the time and yet, according to her autobiography, was pathologically jealous of her and didn't let her leave his sight for the first few years of marriage...) and was very excited about the kid. Marie Valerie (his sister) writes in her diary in September 1883:

2 September, Schönbrunn. So Stephanie has a little daughter. [Before that, Empress Elisabeth received a telegram from Crown Prince Rudolf about the impending happy event, then the onset of contractions and the birth. Empress Elisabeth and Valérie then immediately set off for Laxenburg. After the child has been inspected, to Valérie's delight,] breakfast in Mama's drawing room for four: Mama, the Queen [Stéphanie's mother], Rudolf and I. We talked about Stephanie the whole time, she is said to have suffered a great deal and was even in danger for a moment. — Rudolf slept a little on the floor next to her, and Stephanie said to Hofrat Braun: "I mustn't scream so as not to wake the Archduke... Finally she called out: "Rudolf! You won't be angry with me if it's a girl?" So 5 minutes before 7 a.m. the little one was born. Stephanie is said to have cried, and Rudolf said: "It doesn't matter - a daughter is much sweeter." September 19th. Visit to Stephanie, not at all how you would imagine a mother to be. I don't think she can forgive her for being a girl. On the contrary, Rudolf seems quite happy…

Yeah, he had brown eyes, according to many thirsty contemporary accounts xD

Lol everyone believed the Egypt fact, and I'm not questioning why 😭 He admits to it in Orientreise (apparently they bought a stone tablet - not sure from whom...), I figured out that it's still at the Vienna Kunsthistorisches by looking at their online catalogue

Ok, I may have exaggerated the dog story a bit - it's not 100% certain he let them sleep in bed with him, but:

Nicknames are true; he signed his letters to Stephanie as Coco and Marie Valerie called him (in his youth) "Nazi" in her diary (... for some reason. Obviously not related to the meaning the world would acquire later...)

So um yeah. Freak<3