#operation wardrobe 2k23

[woolandcoffee]

Capsule Wardrobe: 1860s Corset

I'm in my peach era.

While not technically the first garment that I've made for my Capsule Wardrobe project, this corset is, quite literally, the foundation of that project from which everything else will be built. It is also a piece that has been a long time coming for me, and I'm thrilled to finally have it done.

Some of my long-time followers will perhaps be familiar with my struggles to fine a bust support system that works for me. Not only is my bra size very hard to find (I've only found it in-store at Nordstroms, and the closest Nordstroms to me is a three-hour drive), but even the bras that do fit me tend to be fairly uncomfortable and often fail to provide the type of support I'm looking for. I've been getting by the last few years with a series of ill-fitting sports bras and dresses with supportive bodices which has been okay-ish, but still leaves a lot to be desired. When I decided last year that I would begin working in earnest to fill in the holes in my me-made wardrobe, I knew that tackling bust support had to be one of the first things I did, and I knew that I had to make a corset.

Some in progress details.

After some months of deliberation, I decided that I wanted to make the 1860s corset from Redthreaded. While I did originally consider just using my 1890s corset as my day-to-day support, I ended up liking the silhouette of the 1860s better. The 1860s silhouette features a lower bust that, funnily enough, feels more in line with our modern silhouettes than the 1890s. The more dramatic hip gussets don't hurt either.

Along with a strength layer of white cotton coutil, I used some of the pink silk taffeta left over my my 18th c. robe a la francaise that I made earlier this year. The Redthreaded pattern was easy to follow (I have yet to make a Redthreaded pattern that isn't easy to follow - I would absolutely recommend them if you're looking to get into corsetry), and this entire garment came together in about a week.

Overall, I'm obsessed. The pink silk was exactly the right choice. It's pretty, luxurious, and decadently femme. The urge to eat bon-bons while swanning about the house increases 100% when I wear it. I also love the shape it gives me. It's subtle, but my bust is lifted, my waist is nipped in, and it smooths out my hips. It has so far fit seamlessly into my existing wardrobe, and has been incredibly helpful with getting my wool walking skirts to sit the way they should. I'm extremely pleased.

And yes, it is comfortable. Oh my gods it is so comfortable.

This is also the first time I've flossed a corset. I chose white flossing to compliment the pink. It's simple, dainty, and I think puts the cherry on right on top of this absolute confection.

[woolandcoffee]

Capsule Wardrobe Operating Plan

This is the current operating plan for my capsule wardrobe project that I will be starting in 2023, but will likely carry into 2024 and possibly beyond. The operating plan includes the colors I will be using in my wardrobe, as well as the garments I intend to make. Some of the garments are fully planned out down to the fabric and pattern I will be using, while others still have some decisions that need to be made. However, this is the generally finalized list of garments that I will be working from and crossing off as I go. Additionally, because I am also a historical costumer who frequently incorporates garments from my historical costuming into my regular wardrobe, I'm giving myself the freedom to let a historical costuming piece satisfy a capsule wardrobe requirement if I so choose. And with that, let the sewing begin!

Colors

The colors are based both off of what is already prominent in my current wardrobe, and the colors that work best for my warm autumn coloring.

Neutrals:

Brown - particularly warm browns that vary from light to dark; coffee, cognac, camel

Cream - warm off-whites that go well with the warm browns

Colors:

Green - again, warm greens with mid to rich saturation; nothing too light or pastel, nothing cool or “minty"; fern, olive, forest, etc.

Orange - earthy to vibrant; no neon and again no pastels; terracotta, rust, true orange

Red - anything from scarlet to burgundy; use carefully so as not to contrast too much with green

Garments

These are broken down into different garment categories. While several garments are fully finalized, others are subject to some change and will be updated accordingly

Foundation Garments:

One "every day" corset - will use 1860s corset pattern from RedThreaded; have fabric for

One to two additional petticoats - white cotton, possibly one silk for winter

Several linen shifts

Dresses:

Cold weather dresses

Red wool dress - full skirt, large bishop sleeves, long cuff with buttons, v-cut bodice; have fabric for

Dark green wool pinafore - square neck, bodice with buttons on both sides, moderately fully skirt; have fabric for

Brown wool pinafore - style uncertain; have fabric for

Warm weather dresses

Linen wrap dress - will likely use the HubaDing wrap dress pattern from etsy, color unknown

Green linen dress - possibly a more muted green such as olive or a warmer moss, maybe sleeveless

Blouses

One long-sleeved linen blouse appropriate for warm weather - something with big, floating sleeves, color tbd

One short-sleeved linen blouse appropriate for warm weather - possibly self-draft a milkmaid blouse style top, color tbd 

Brown silk blouse - a rich, warm brown; probably a crepe or a charmeuse; use the 1930s blouse with a pussy bow tie from Etsy

Cream silk blouse - possibly the Vampire blouse pattern from The Closet Historian or 1930s pussy bow blouse

Mossy green silk blouse - TCH Vampire blouse or 1930s blouse with pussy bow

Skirts

Brown corduroy skirt - more structured like a pencil skirt/A-line

Brown wool skirt - Edith Skirt pattern; have fabric for

Green wool skirt - 1890s walking skirt; have fabric for

Orange linen skirt - likely an earthy terracotta color; similar to the skirts with buttons down the front and a flounce at the bottom possibly with a belt tie

Brown linen(?) skirt - A warm, rich brown; maybe the Edith Skirt pattern again; this is the least thought out, probably something more structured that would be suitable for warmer weather

Misc.

A suit - most likely in a suiting wool, maybe brown or green; something vintage-inspired (30s, 40s, or 50s) but suitable for modern wear

A fancy dress for fancy occasions - in a silk; color and style tbd

[woolandcoffee]

Finally getting started on the first garment for my capsule wardrobe project!! Of course, I have immediately run into the problem of what accent fabric to choose. The skirt is mostly going to be a light brown wool, but the pocket openings are meant to be trimmed in an accent fabric. My scrap stash is pretty limited at the moment (cat peed in my cabbage patch and I opted for chucking it all out instead of washing, don't judge me), but I do have some dark green silk velvet that would be interesting. I could also use some black wool. I think I'm leaning towards the green velvet, and using some gold or grass buttons to tie it all together. But I'm not sure if the texture contrast is too much. Since I haven't used the poll feature yet, and it's unlikely I'll get to sewing the trim tonight, figured I'd get some outside input.

[woolandcoffee]

I was really hoping that last night I could get started on my capsule wardrobe project, but Joann's did not have anything even remotely usable for drafting paper and the first garment I want to start requires that I draft out the pattern on gridded paper. Figured I'd start with the brown wool version of the Edith Skirt because I have the fabric, and a lightweight wool skirt would be ideal for the spring weather we're starting to have. Instead of being a traditional paper pattern that is already to scale and just needs to be cut out, the Edith Skirt pattern is printed on a grid that corresponds to square inches and must be scaled up and hand drafted before it is ready to be used. I've never done that before (though I've done enough pattern drafting that I feel comfortable scaling up a pattern) and its something I want to have experience with because a lot of patterns from historical or vintage pattern drafting books are displayed in this manner. I figured that the Edith Skirt would be a good way to dip my toes in that particular water.

Anyways. I have ordered gridded pattern paper and as soon as it gets delivered, I'll be able to start my wardrobe project!

[woolandcoffee]

So I did wind up going with the green velvet trim and it does look fantastic. Thanks to everyone for their input, it was very helpful!

[woolandcoffee]

Now that the ball is behind me, I'm ready to actually start in true earnest on my Capsule Wardrobe project. Though, uh, so much for calling it "Operation Capsule Wardrobe 2k23." This is clearly going to be a 2024-2025 project.

For the unfamiliar, this project is something I started thinking about last year as a way to fill in the "gaps" in my wardrobe. Most of my clothing is made entirely by me. There are some thrifted items, and a couple of pieces I've purchased from small retailers, like my treasured Sondefleur dress, but nearly everything else in my wardrobe is me-made. When I started the journey of making my own clothing, I wasn't going in with any kind of plan. I just enjoyed sewing and wanted to create clothing that fit both my body and personal taste in fashion. While this has greatly increased my overall satisfaction with my clothing, it also means that there are some persistent gaps in my closet.

This is where my Capsule Wardrobe project comes in! The point of this project is to fill in the gaps that I have noticed over the last couple of years so that I no longer find myself missing some genuine basics. And now that my big sewing deadline for 2023 is off my plate, I'm ready to get started.

The first thing I'm going to do is go in and make any necessary edits to my operating plan. For example, I have in my original outline that I would make seven long-line bras. I think instead, I'm going to replace those seven bras with one corset. I'm also going to add in a little "rule" for myself that some of my historical makes can satisfy Capsule Wardrobe goals if I find myself making something that does double-duty. There's no reason why the Victorian walking skirt I just started putting together couldn't also be the green wool skirt I put on my Capsule Wardrobe outline.

I'm really excited to finally get going on this, and hopefully share some more of my sewing exploits with you all!