#often wildlife refuges will have roads through them—some you’re allowed out of your car and some you must remain in it

[heatherwitch]

Northern Pintail + Black-capped Chickadee

Common Goldeneye

Ring-necked Duck + Mallard

Black-billed Magpie + Killdeer

Green-winged Teal

[ibtk]

Book Review: THE ANIMALS IN THAT COUNTRY by Laura Jean McKay (2020)

(Full disclosure: I received a free copy of this book in exchange for an honest review through Edelweiss and Library Thing's Early Reviewers program. Content warning for violence, including that against animals. Caution: this review contains a spoiler in the form of an excerpt.)

'Well, I’ve got a secret for you, Miss Kimberly Russo.' She digs her sharp little nails into my skin. ‘What is it?’ ‘This flu means people can talk to animals.’ Her head shoots up. ‘I want the flu, Granny. Don’t you?’ ‘Grown-ups don’t wish they had diseases, and neither should you.’ ‘But don’t you?’ Outside, Wallamina and Princess Pie are nose and beak to the sliding door, trying to press their way through. Eyes shining. ‘Course I bloody do.’

I can see the wild in her. She looks and acts like any dog. Plays, wags, stares into my eyes with her baby browns; does chasey, catch, begs for biscuits. Then the dusk comes and she lifts her neck and howls the saddest song in all the world, and there’s that wild. Dingo, owl, night thing — that sound is a warning. Loneliest you’ll hear. Wraps around your face, your sleep, your dreams. She’s saying: ‘Hey, hey. There’s something coming.’ The rangers here are always telling me, don’t talk like that. They say how dingoes are just establishing territory, checking on their pack. Dingo admin. But stand on the hot road that runs from the gift shop to the enclosures, and listen to the dingo in her cage call out to the packs on the other side of the fence. Tell me that’s not special. Tell me she doesn’t know something about the world that you and me haven’t ever thought of.

Jean Bennett isn't you're typical grandma - unless you're picturing Gemma Teller Morrow, that is. Jean drinks, smokes, swears, and sleeps around, usually all at the same time, and occasionally with her gay and committed coworker, Andy. She's got a tiger tattooed on her boob, and a dingo named Sue imprinted on her heart.

A lowly guide who dreams of becoming a ranger, Jean works at an Australian wildlife park, run by her son's ex-girlfriend Angela and owned by Angela's father. Jean and her husband Graham landed there years ago, after bouncing around the world for a while. Eventually Graham left Jean to shack up with another woman; their only child, Lee, jumped ship too, but not before hooking up with - and impregnating - Angela. Now Ange mostly keeps Jean around for the free child care (and maybe also because Ange feels sorry for her).

As for Jean, she stays stuck in this weird, awkward morass for her granddaughter Kimberley - one of the few people she can tolerate, let alone love. Jean prefers animals of the nonhuman variety, and the Park's residents/captives are her found family. She has a special place in her cockles for Sue, a dingo mix who she helped rescue as a wee little pup.

Jean's precarious life is already teetering on the edge of chaos when THE FLU arrives - first in southern Australia, then at the Park's gates, thanks to none other than an infected Lee, as charming as he is irresponsible.

Zoanthropathy (from Greek: zóo, “animal”, anthroponis, “human”, pathy, “disorder”), aka zooflu, otherwise known as "the talking animal disease," allow humans to understand and communicate with other animals:

'The strain known as zoanthropathy affects cognition in humans, and it is believed that enhanced communication between humans and nonhuman animals is possible. Zoanthropathy is hosted and spread by humans. [...] The disease is very high in morbidity and very low in mortality. Infected humans appear able to communicate (encode) and translate (decode) previously unrecognisable non-verbal communications via major senses such as sight, smell, taste, touch, and sound with nonhuman animals.'

When Lee runs off with Kimberley - to commune with the whales on the southern coast - Jean embarks on a cross-country road trip to find them. Riding shotgun is Sue, whose keen nose points the way to Tomorrow (Tomorrow being Sue's conceptualization of Kimberley. Jean is Yesterday, and Lee is Never There. Scathing, yet accurate.)

As with most potentially animal-friendly tales, I was equally nervous and excited to dive into THE ANIMALS IN THAT COUNTRY. As it is, the book both thrilled and disappointed me; I almost feel like it deserves two separate ratings, one for the idea and actualization of the dystopian zooflu future - which is breathtaking - and another for the human-centered plot that propels the audience's journey into this world - which is decidedly less so.

Let's start with the zooflu. It seems like it would be awesome to be able to talk to animals, right? Think again. I mean, really turn the idea over in your head, sit with the superpower, and try to envision what this might entail. Given that most of the nonhumans we encounter on the daily are exploited, oppressed, or otherwise negatively impacted by humans -

be it the 25 million farmed animals we create, torture, and kill for food every year in the US alone; the "wildlife" (read: free-living animals) we displace, starve, and kill through habitat loss; the dogs and cats we buy, neglect, and then abandon at shelters; or the animals we unintentionally hit with our cars (or the bugs we trod on just walking down the street); etc. x infinity

- we are weapons of mass destruction. To most of our nonhuman kin (and sometimes our fellow humans, too). Instead of words of wisdom and messages of hope, we'd be more likely to hear cries of terror. Confusion. Pain and agony. Hellfire, everywhere. Created and fueled by us and our own.

Heck, I'm not even sure it would be beneficial to always know exactly what our beloved, nonhuman family members are thinking. I have a fifteen-year-old dog named Finn who's going deaf and blind and battling dementia. More often than not, I suspect that being privy to his innermost thoughts would freak me the fuck out. Not to mention break my damn heart.

And then there's the mode of communication: not just just verbal, as we're used to, but all-encompassing: "sight, smell, taste, touch, and sound." Think pheromones, sound waves, scratches and ticks. The beating of countless tiny wings, all bombarding your brain and trying to tell you something. That kind of thing, coming at you uninvited and from all directions, is apt to drive a person mad. And it does, as evidenced by zooflu sufferers who stuff their orifices with whatever's handy to block incoming stimuli - or, at the more extreme end, the pseudo-religious trepanners who invite strangers to drill holes in their skulls in a misguided attempt to relieve the pressure.

Talking to animals sounds like the stuff of dreams - but in McKay's hands, it's a nightmare.

And a pretty trippy one, at that: fittingly, the incoming messages that Jean's left to decode aren't quite what you'd call straightforward. There's a lot of translation required, and Google hasn't yet caught up:

I’m reading her body like some language I barely remember from a high school textbook. Bonjour madame, connaissez-vous le chemin de la gare? Let’s go to the station. Or, where the hell is the supermarket? I can parrot the words, but the meaning is in scraps.

Copies of this book should be sold with a sheet of acid, or maybe some edibles. I kid, but also not.

If, like me, you assumed that increased understanding and compassion would surely spring forth from this newfound ability to communicate with nonhuman animals, you'd be wrong. While some people do indeed embrace the flu, many others lash out: animal-free zones are established, and hungry citizens start hunting former pets, since they make for easy prey (apparently they've never heard of fruits and veggies?).

There's one especially excruciating scene that I don't think I'll ever be able to forget. Jean takes refuge in a makeshift church, only to catch a glimpse of how the missionaries make their sausage (stew):

A small fluffy dog has pelted out a kitchen door, thin bit of twine tangled around its legs, body blonde fire, screaming, Hello. Please. Please bite its soft. Quick. Help me. I jump up, calling the poor little bugger, but the parishioners shriek louder, climbing on their chairs like that dog is the snake from the garden of Eden. The woman rushes for her daughter and hauls her by an arm out of the room. It’s funny, for a second, until the laugh dies in my throat. The little dog, too tangled in the twine to move, slumps panting in the aisle. It’s not just m e. Where’s other me. She’s still — The god-botherers are faster than me. They grab that dog with WWF wrestling passion, using real lumps of wood, real knives. The little dog has enough time to issue a thick whiff of terror from its undercarriage, Help her, before they’ve slit it ear to ear right there in the pulpit. There was no blood with Lee. He didn’t even look that drowned. He might have come alive any moment. He might be alive right now in his grave. This little dog, though, is bleeding out on the beige carpet. The door to the kitchen is open. Matthew the soup cook leans on the jamb, then turns back. A fluffy tail on a chopping board. The steaming pots. Pain like a stab to my guts — he stirs a soup very much like the one he was serving up in the park.

Of course, this scene is so repulsive to most of us - Jean included - only because the animal being killed and consumed is designated for "companionship" instead of "food," at least in this particular culture. Chances are you've known and loved a dog or two yourself - and so the doomed beast transforms from a something to a someone. Not an unfeeling object to be used and discarded at will, but a sentient creature with her own feelings, desires, and loved ones. Had it been a chicken or pig, the result wouldn't be quite so horrifying; Jean herself eats meat, and justifies doing so, on several occasions.

Yet an earlier scene - in which Jean comes upon an abandoned tractor trailer truck packed with pigs destined for slaughter - will hopefully challenge readers to expand their circle of compassion:

I’ve seen battery hogs before — of course I have. But not out and about. Not staggering around and trying to walk, calling to whatever they think is ‘more’. Glazed eyes that strain like they’ve never seen sunlight. Skin stretched over bodies fed to the point of bursting — something between swine and meat. Saw some animal liberationists on the street in the city one time, saying factory farms were the same as Nazi camps. I called them bloody racists too. The pigs clatter past me down the ramp, fucked-up eyes on the road ahead, calling, Hello is it more. Those animal nutters were wrong, but not in the way I thought. It’s not the same as the Nazis: that was us doing to us. What’s this? [...] A hurt sow sits on her haunches, then lies down on the verge, panting unevenly under the slathering sun. Another weaves blindly over the asphalt toward her, flies spinning around her head. They push their noses into each other. Send me a postcard, the sick one says. Postcard, indeed. What the fuck. I watch more closely. The meaning bright off that tight skin. All the little bits saying, Leave me, and, I’ll hear about it, and, Don’t you see it. Move on. There’s more. The ones that can walk stretch their legs, for, More, more, more. I stand at the top of the truck ramp watching them break into a group trot toward the next paddock. Skin rippling. Hooves carolling. Know that heart-in-your-mouth run. Know exactly what ‘more’ is. I’ve seen it in Lee and I’ve had it too, at times. These pigs are half dead, they’re stumbling around, blind, mad, and fucking hopeful.

Even if many of the characters in this book resist the humanity clearly evident in nonhuman animals, I hope that readers will hold these passages close - especially at the dinner table.

Sue, our main nonhuman protagonist, is a fascinating character; like many of the semi-domesticated animals in the park, McKay paints her as a series of conflicting impulses: safety or freedom. Hunger or satiation. Dingoes or humans. She is fiercely loyal, much to her own detriment. She has wants and needs of her own, and she's often satisfied to set them aside for the good of her (adopted) pack.

And I guess that brings me to the second half of this review: the humans, most of whom are awful. Jean, exponentially so.

Initially I thought that Jean would be my people: she's a hard-drinking, mold-breaking badass broad who gets on better with animals than people. She has a mini-rescue in her backyard where she keeps some of the park's doomed relinquishments. (The public treats the park like a rehab facility when in fact it's in the business of entertainment - old, sick, injured, and "common" animals are routinely killed.) She and Kimberley spend their afternoons together designing the animal rescue they hope to build one day.

But Jean is kind of a terrible person. To call her a misanthrope is half the story: she's also senselessly mean and cruel, especially when drunk, hungover, or frustrated (in other words, 90% of the time). I don't fault Jean for her substance abuse problem - alcoholism is a mental health issue and should be treated as such - but nor is it an excuse for being such an asshole. (There's even a scene where she trolls people discussing the zooflu online, like a fucking American redhat.) She's shit to everyone around her, except for Kimberley and Lee (Lee, who could use a good ass-kicking).

And then there's Sue: Sue, who followed Jean across the damn country when she should have been settling into a dingo pack of her own. Sue, who found Kimberley and saved Jean's life. Sue, who is nothing but good and true and trustworthy. Sue, who Jean assaults on multiple occasions: kicking her in the ribs, binding her with rope to prevent her escape, and even trying to shoot her (with a gun that's thankfully empty of bullets). At one point, she "forgives" Sue for saving her life - as if Sue's the one who needs forgiveness!

Despite the abuse, Sue continues to stick by Jean's side, which galled me endlessly. Towards the end of the story, following the attempted murder, Sue gets revenge of a sort, dominating a delirious Jean and forcing her subservience. However, the book ends shortly thereafter, cutting any sense of satisfaction far too short.

I really felt cheated with Jean: I thought she might be my avatar in this world - but she's just another terrible human who doesn't deserve the company of animals.

Likewise, the whole subplot involving Kimberley's parentage is way over the top dramatic and unnecessary; it seemed like we were being plucked from a dystopia and dropped into a soap opera for a minute there. Just, gross. So yeah, there are definitely some aspects of the book that I appreciated more than others. THE ANIMALS IN THAT COUNTRY may be imperfect - but I'd still wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone looking to explore our relationship to nonhuman animals in a dystopian setting.

[anestiefel]

Maui vs. Kauai: Which Hawaiian Island Is Better for You?

Getting There and Around

Along the Road to Hana, Maui/Oyster

Traveling to Hawaii, sadly, isn’t fast. Even those coming from the West Coast will have to endure a six-hour flight, and it’s double that for folks traveling from the East Coast. Since most flights arrive in Oahu, whether you’re off to Maui or Kauai, you may have another leg of the journey. If you’re willing to pay a bit more, though, you may find a more direct route.

Maui: You can fly nonstop to Maui’s Kahului Airport from as far east as Chicago, which helps make it a bit simpler to reach Maui from many mainland U.S. destinations. Travelers from New York City, Boston, and other East Coast cities will likely have to connect from a city on the West Coast or through Oahu (there are nonstop flights from NYC to Honolulu, located on Oahu). Once you land, Maui is generally easier to get around than Kauai. You can drive (or take a bus) around much of the coastline. In all likelihood, the only long drive that you’ll have to endure is the the Road to Hana or to the Haleakalā volcano. Everything else is likely to be pretty close at hand, especially if you’re staying in the big tourist area at Lahaina.

Kauai: Kauai is best for slightly more intrepid travelers. There are considerably fewer nonstop flights to Kauai, and all are from the West Coast. But that’s only half the battle. Kauai is generally considered one of the least developed islands in the Hawaiian archipelago. Only 20 percent of the island is accessible by car, and most of the coastline can’t be seen from any road. For instance, the island’s most famous destination — the dramatic Na Pali Coast. While you can get a glimpse of the dramatic cliffs here after a short walk from a parking lot, but properly experiencing it comes with an overnight hike, a boat tour that is notorious for making people seasick, or a doors-off helicopter ride — a prospect that might be too pricey (or too daring) for some.

Weather on Kauai and Maui

Waimea Canyon, Kauai/Oyster

Average high temperatures at sea level are a few degrees warmer on Maui than on Kauai, which is 225 miles to the northwest. And we do mean a few — 79 versus 82 degrees in December, for example. There is, however, more of a difference when it comes to rainfall.

Maui: Most of Maui’s main resort areas and attractions get reliably sunny days all year round, especially the south coast near Wailea. Although Lahaina, Kaanapali, and Kapalua are slightly more fickle, the island sees negligible rain overall. A word about temperatures: If you venture to the top of Haleakalā volcano (more than 10,000 feet above sea level), you’ll need a windbreaker, hat, and gloves, especially at night. It will be cold, no matter how balmy it feels at your hotel.

Kauai: Kauai gets more rain than Maui, especially from December through March. The exception is the south shore around Poipu, which many tourists prefer during the winter. The catch is that the most beautiful scenery is on the north shore, near Princeville and Hanalei. But showers tend to be brief — true throughout all of Hawaii — and you may be treated to an Instagram-destined rainbow afterward.

Scenery on Kauai and Maui

Sunrise at Haleakalā National Park, Maui/Oyster

When it comes to dramatic Hawaiian scenery, Maui and Kauai are both essentially exactly what most travelers imagine. Stunning coastlines, towering mountains, and lush jungles abound on both islands. However, the main difference between the two islands comes down to the variety in the landscapes, which Maui wins by a narrow margin.

Maui: All in all, the scenery on Maui is more accessible than what’s found on Kauai. That starts with Haleakalā, a dormant volcano taking up about 40 percent of the island, offers beautiful, desert-like views via the Sliding Sands Trail. It’s easily accessible by a road that takes you up to the top. (Several tour companies also offer a bike-down option.) It’s the place to watch the sun rise, but sunsets or stargazing usually draw fewer people. The Road to Hana, a narrow, twisting highway, is often lauded as one of the most captivating drives in the world, passing black and red sand beaches, jungles, a bamboo forest, waterfalls, and a grove of rainbow eucalyptus trees, which look like they’ve been spray-painted.

Kauai: With plains and jagged mountain peaks that are cloaked in thick, emerald vegetation, it’s no wonder why “Jurassic Park” was filmed on Kauai. But the eye-catching scenery isn’t all that Kauai has going for it. As we’ve already told you, Kauai is best for travelers who are more independent and adventurous. The island has a far more rural vibe than Maui (keep an eye out for the wild chickens), and lacks some of the more touristy trappings found there. Waimea Canyon on the western side of the island — dubbed the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” — is jaw-dropping 10-mile long stunner that’s 3,000 feet deep. Hiking down into the canyon is doable, but strenuous. We’ve also already told you about the visits to the Na Pali Coast and the off-the-grid experience they offer.

Beaches on Kauai and Maui

Kalapaki Beach at the Kauai Marriott Resort/Oyster

For many travelers, a Hawaiian vacation without some beach time is unthinkable. You can loll away on Maui or Kauai, but the experience will play out a bit differently on each. (Technically, Maui has more swimmable beaches than Kauai.) Whichever swath of sand you land on, know this: It may remind you of a beach in the Caribbean, but the water here is noticeably cooler.

Maui: The waters are less rough around Maui than they are around Kauai, especially in the winter. Maui has a bounty of spectacular– albeit sometimes narrow — golden beaches, plus black and red sand options. Among them is Makena Beach (also known as Big Beach) from which you can see the Molokini crater. The surf here also tends to be gentle enough for timid swimmers. Wailea Beach is home to some of Maui’s poshest resorts, such as the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, the Andaz Maui at Wailea, and the Grand Wailea – A Waldorf Astoria Resort. Accordingly, A-listers, like John Stamos, Adam Sandler, and Jessica Alba, have been spied here. Kapalua Bay Beach, near the Montage Kapalua Bay and The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua, is a popular spot for boarding and kayaking, as well as swimming and snorkeling among parrot fish and turtles.

Kauai: Here, you’ll find more wide, soft, white-sand beaches, due to the fact that Kauai is geologically older than Maui. However — like many things on Kauai — some of the most beautiful and uncrowded beaches are hard to reach. For example, you’ll need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to traverse an unpaved road and sand dunes to reach the secluded, 17-mile stretch of sand at Polihale State Park. Upon arrival, you’ll be rewarded with views of the beginning of the Na Pali Coast as well as Niihau, the state’s only privately-owned isle. The dunes, some 100 feet high, are an impressive sight, as are the waves. With the exception of Queen’s Pond, which is protected by a sandbar, the rest of the beach is too dangerous for swimming. That fact — or the trek to get down here — may be why the beach is almost always nearly empty. Meanwhile, Kalapaki Bay on the eastern coast is a prime spot for surfing, sailing, and canoeing. The Kauai Marriott Resort is adjacent to the bay. On the north shore, Anini is the most noteworthy beach. The water here is calm, since it’s protected by Hawaii’s longest reef. At two miles long, it’s rarely crowded, especially at the west end.

Activities on Kauai and Maui

Kalalau Trail, Na Pali Coast, Kauai/Oyster

The list of outdoor pursuits is long for both Maui and Kauai, and many activities overlap. Fishing, snorkeling, hiking, surfing, sea kayaking, golfing, and boating make both islands an adventurer’s paradise, but here are some distinctions to keep in mind.

Maui: Good snorkeling can be had on Kauai, but on Maui, it’s great. There are more top-notch sites here, and more are easily accessible from beaches. Sea turtles are often part of the underwater show on Maui. Po’olenalena Beach, in the southern part of Maui, arguably offers the best snorkeling in all of Hawaii. To the west, Kahekili Beach and Kapalua Beach are nearly as rewarding in terms of the variety and abundance of undersea life you can see. Catamaran cruises at sunset are also exceptionally popular while you’re here. Day hikes and waterfalls, along with great swimming holes, are all along the Road to Hana.

Kauai: While Maui has the edge in snorkeling, Kauai — also known as the Garden Isle — is a hiker’s haven. Note that some of the treks are suited to experienced hikers — such as the Kalalau Trail, a 22-mile, minimum two-day trek along the Na Pali Coast — but there are still some places where newbies can set off and see staggering sights. For instance, the easygoing Kuilau Ridge Trail takes only about two-and-a-half hours to hike, and offers views of Mount Nounou and, if it’s not cloudy, Mount Waialeale as well. Kauai also has something Maui doesn’t: navigable rivers. That allows for river kayaking, with popular picks being the Wailua River and the Hule‘ia River, which takes you through the surrounding National Wildlife Refuge.

Wildlife on Kauai and Maui

Snorkeling at Sheraton Maui Resort/Oyster

Both islands provide plenty of opportunities to see wildlife, including colorful tropical fish, manta rays, and green sea turtles. (The latter, while certainly not unknown on Kauai, tends to favor Maui.) Here’s what else to consider if viewing wildlife is a priority.

Maui: Humpback whales, migrating down from Alaska, put on quite a show off of Maui’s coast during the winter months. In fact, in some places you can see them breaching without leaving your hotel room. It’s easy to book boat or even kayak tours to get up close and personal with these beloved marine mammals. While it’s possible to see humpbacks in the waters off Kauai, Maui is largely considered to be the better vantage point.

Kauai: What you might see in Kauai, however, is a monk seal. The total population of the critically endangered animal is down to 1,200 — most live around the uninhabited northwestern Hawaiian islands. However, they’ve started popping up on beaches all around Kauai. These blubbering beauties are commonly spotted basking on Poipu Beach, including at the Koloa Landing Resort at Poipu, Autograph Collection. (You’ll need to keep a safe distance, for your sake and theirs.) The odds of seeing one in Maui, several hundred miles away from the seals’ principal feeding grounds, is slim at best.

Overall Vibe on Kauai and Maui

Road to Hana, Maui/Oyster

Tropical, relaxing, and exciting — Maui and Kauai have a lot in common. But which one you choose will come down to your vacationing style and who you’re traveling with.

Maui: If you are traveling with your family or another group with a range of ages and interests, Maui can be the clear choice due to the variety of entertainment and activity options it offers. If you’re honeymooning, you’ll have plenty of company, for better or worse, as Maui is newlywed central. For first-time visitors to Hawaii, Maui will likely offer more of what you’re expecting. For one thing, many picture themselves staying on the beach, and that’s easier to do on Maui, which has a greater number of beachfront properties at various price points. You can find ample nightlife here, as well as fine-dining establishments and high-end shops like Tiffany & Co. and Louis Vuitton. (You’ll also find chain restaurants, such as Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. and Ruth’s Chris Steak House, which can be a positive or a negative, depending on your outlook.) In short, Maui is more touristy, but that’s not a bad thing for some people.

Kauai: Kauai is your pick if the great outdoors and a lack of major development is your idea of paradise. You’ll find a real sense of solitude here. Come to Kauai if you’re looking to really unplug and don’t need a hopping bar scene or days spent shopping. For active, outdoorsy travelers seeking a true escape, Kauai is likely to be heaven on earth.

Our Maui Hotel Pick: Travaasa Hana

  The grounds and oceanfront at Travaasa Hana, Maui/Oyster

One of the most popular hotels in Hawaii (and, to be honest, the entire United States), the Travaasa Hana takes luxurious Hawaiian vacationing to new heights. This all-inclusive resort is located at the end of the Road to Hana, and feels light-years away from the real world. It’s stand-alone bungalows are hard to top on Maui if you’re after secluded romance.

Pricing for Travaasa Hana, Maui

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Our Kauai Hotel Pick: The Princeville Resort

The view over Hanalei Bay and mountains from the Princeville Resort/Oyster

Overlooking Hanalei Bay, The Princeville Resort is a classic stunner with plenty of modern style. It’s easily the most elegant property on Kauai, with spacious rooms, beautiful pools, high-end dining, and a prime location along the island’s North Shore. It’s a family-friendly option, but there are enough amazing amenities here for a romantic adults getaway too.

Pricing for Princeville Resort

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