#no one ever knows about brittanys but they are Always in breed guides and they always have the nicest things written about them bc they are

[glassamphibians]

i see a dog breed encyclopedia i race to find my doggies it is that simple

[wildlyhardphilosopher-blog]

puppy protection training | 4 Things to Teach your NEW PUPPY Right Now!

New Post has been published on https://dogtraining.dknol.com/english/puppy-protection-training-4-things-to-teach-your-new-puppy-right-now/?utm_source=Tumblr&utm_medium=Tumblr+%230+Freda+K+Pless&utm_campaign=SNAP%2Bfrom%2BBest+Dog+Training

puppy protection training | 4 Things to Teach your NEW PUPPY Right Now!

You will learn a new, remarkable system of lifelong communication with dogs, gain a deeper understanding of dog behavior, understand the science behind marker-based (clicker) training and acquire the skills needed to apply it all effectively. I have a boxer who is 8 weeks old. We are crate training her. She is fine in the crate eats her meals in there goes in by herself when she’s tired at night however it’s totally different. The first 2 nights were fine but night 3 and 4 she just keeps whining. If I leave her there she doesn’t settle an pushes hard against the bottom of the door bending it. We have tried having someone sleep next to the crate but it did help. What do I do? I’m very tired This type of training does not rely on making dogs worried or frightened, so there is less danger of causing problem behaviours. This approach also means that dogs have better welfare, enjoy their training and form a better bond with owners or carers – so why would we do anything else? Despite our best endeavors, dogs don’t understand our words—they guess. Learn how to overcome your dog’s attempt to guess what you want in order to get treats by recognizing and leveraging aggregate or cumulative reinforcement, recency, the order of events, or his own preferred behaviors. x Chinook Pros: Unique enzymatic action, powerful against all stains and odors, can be used on any surface, discourages puppy from reusing the same area, safe for pets and children Shop Dog This comparison is just so that you can understand that puppies are capable of learning even though they are young (if training is introduced properly, of course). A recall—coming when called—allows owners to prevent trouble even from a distance. Grain Free Food Black Panther Co-Founder Elbert “Big Man” Howard Dies at 80 Remedies & Care Veterinary Behavior Solutions Drop-off and Pick-up Information Special Offers Alexandra Bassett Manage Your Medications Brittany Boykin Housetraining ground rule No. 1: Never leave your un-housetrained dog unattended. Not even for a minute. If you aren’t actively engaged with your dog, having her in the same room with you doesn’t count. It’s very important not to give her opportunities to fail at housetraining. If you can’t engage with your dog, which of course isn’t possible every minute of every day, she should be in her crate. Yes, I said crate! Housetraining Puppies & Dogs Tips for Responsible Dog Owners © 2018 Sit Means Sit. All Rights Reserved. Keep on testing until he succeeds. Follow the rule of the 3 Ps – patience, persistence, praise. Establish a routine Jump up ^ Jane S. Orihel. “Management and Rehabilitation of Inter-Dog Aggression in Animal Shelters” (PDF). Retrieved 15 December 2011. Sign Up Voted Best Training in Denver 2014-2018. Daily Newsletter The latest Across Washington news delivered to your inbox every morning. HEALTHY PETS DISCLAIMER: This information is for educational purposes only and is not intended to replace the advice of your own veterinarian or doctor. Dr. Karen Becker cannot answer specific questions about your pet’s medical issues or make medical recommendations for your pet without first establishing a veterinarian-client-patient relationship. Your pet’s medical protocol should be given by your holistic veterinarian. R&R Litter Box Accessories Jul 21, 2018 at 7:51 am Find a Puppy Virtual Tour Housetraining your dog or puppy requires patience, commitment and lots of consistency. Accidents are part of the process, but if you follow these basic housetraining guidelines, you can get the newest member of your family on the right track in a few weeks’ time. Thank you for your feedback! They don’t seem to be afraid of the place I would like them to eliminate, they’ll go there on their own $15.96 Hide Menu AKC S.T.A.R. Puppy Reference Regardless of the method of house training you choose, some form of confinement is almost always necessary, for the times when you really cannot watch your puppy. Cornerstone Society Definition[edit] Enroll a Canine Partner The ideal time to start house training your puppy is between 12 and 16 weeks old. By that age, your dog will have enough control over his bladder and bowel movements to be able to “hold it” as needed. Training Philosophy San Rafael Puppy Kindergarden 9.86 i am a bit confused about this because—- Among the step to housetraining success is being able to foretell when your dog needs to eliminate. Your puppy is likely to need to relieve himself: Dog poop bags and a pooper scooper By the time that the puppy is capable of waiting until someone comes to let him out – you’ll be able to move the pads outside. Top Dogs: When They Finally Get It Right Humane Animal Welfare Society – HAWS of Waukesha Tip #6: Socialize Your Social Animal Parent-Teacher Tips Subscription ARF needs your help to save more lives! Together we can make a difference. I met Gigi 8 years ago shortly after I adopted Scout, my 6-month old Border Collie/Cattledog rescue from the Humane Society. Unfortunately Scout had poor socialization skills because of timidity and fear. My goal was to provide Scout with a healthy physical and emotional life so that she could learn to trust, and find an expert trainer to teach us the skills. Gigi’s approach of positive reinforcement training was exactly what we needed. I continue to use these methods with Scout daily and the training tools Gigi provided are now second nature. Because Gigi has decades of experience, compassion and commitment her training techniques work. Scout and I are proof. We remain avid attendees of Gigi’s Good Dog Club in order to practice “good dog” skills while enjoying a safe venue with a variety of dogs. If you’re looking for a great way to deal with puppy mouthing and biting in a controlled setting, consider letting your dog attend supervised puppy “preschool” play times.

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fbq('track', 'ViewContent', content_ids: 'dogtraining.dknol', ); So I recommend using an exercise pen if you’re going to leave your puppy alone often and there’s any chance of a room being damaged. For example, if you don’t want your puppy on the furniture, say ‘No’ loudly and guide him off every time he climbs up. Then praise him every time he gets on the floor. our heritage Sanitation Forming a good relationship Message Boards Cat Litter WHAT FOLKS ARE SAYING Puppy Level 2 Remember that a dog that is indifferent to his owner’s commands has learned not to respect his owner. This means the owner has lost control. Turn this around. Be consistent with your commands and always reward good behavior. Remember too that puppies can smell the tiniest trace of urine and that they think it is important to pee where they have peed before. 10 Dog Breeds for Children POPULAR POSTS Thousands of See search results for this author Our Pack By tuning into your dog’s signals, you’ll be able to bring him outside before any accidents happen, and you’ll also be able to avoid unnecessary trips outside when he doesn’t need to do his business. Some signs that your puppy needs to “go” include: whining, barking, circling, sniffing, or—if he is unconfined—even scratching at the door. Norwich Terrier PRIVATE LESSONS Your puppy’s smile Haha, I know your frustrations Ace! Hang in there, it’s all about consistency and not “giving in” before your dog learns. You made it! After a full week of consistent house training, your puppy should be doing his business outside and offering signals when he needs to eliminate. Continue your pup on a regular feeding schedule as well as regular trips outside to the same location to reinforce his training and decrease the chance of a setback. Thinking Skills Create an Elimination Area: If your dog is not a designated indoor dog, place the elimination area near the door to the outside. This is because you want your puppy to get out every time it needs to go, but should you fail, you want your dog to seek the door to give you a heads up. To start with just walk around the house with the leash in hand, and your puppy trotting along side you. When he is walking along on a loose leash give him plenty of praise, petting and even some treats. When he strains on the leash, stop immediately. Don’t yank him back over to you with the leash, just call him back over to you and praise him when he comes. Never ever keep walking when your puppy is pulling on the leash, this only rewards his behavior and reinforces the habit. available on iOS, Android, Mac & PC. How To Choose A Plan Limit the amount of time that the dog spends in the crate to less than four hours at any one time. This should be much less for younger puppies. Young puppies, under 12 weeks of age, have small bladders. They usually haven’t developed the ability to control urination.[15] How to Raise the Perfect Dog: Through Puppyhood and Beyond Copyright © 2017 Cesar’s Way Inc. All rights reserved. Hill’s® Science Diet® Youthful Vitality Adult 7+ Small & Toy Breed Chicken & Rice Recipe Dog Food You take the dog out, but nothing happens. More from Across Washington Patch $12.47 Slideshows & Images We teach you how to communicate with your dog so he actually listens when you speak … When you remember these basic instructions, it will enable you to set the right course from the get-go. This way, you’ll be sure always to stay on track on how to potty train your puppy, even when there are accidents and setbacks. George Vondriska Why Are Dogs Scared Of Thunder? How Can You Help Thunderphobia? Liz London is a certified dog trainer through the Certifying Council of Professional Dog Trainers (CPDT-KA) & the Karen Pryor Academy (Dog Trainer Foundations Certification) with regular continuing education courses from the top animal trainers from all over the world, including Michele Pouliot, director of training for the Guide Dogs for the Blind. She has trained zoo animals, search & rescue canines, gundogs, and helped people raise happy, healthy, and well-behaved canine companions for over ten years. Chuckit! 2 days ago Puppy Prep Cheat Sheet More on Training Tips National Geographic Find a Store Dogs» Common Feline Health Conditions Rent or hire a carpet cleaner with special pet-urine enzymatic cleaner or use an enzymatic cleaner, such as Nature’s Miracle or Simple Solution, found in most pet supply stores or online. Glen of Imaal Terrier Substrate & Bedding Recipient Name Adoption Guidelines With an eGift, you can instantly send a Great Course to a friend or loved one via email. It’s simple: Practice in a calm environment. When you enter the room, ignore your jumping puppy and give the “sit” cue. Is your puppy older than 2-3 months? The crate is an invaluable training tool for all puppy owners. It’s a great way to establish good habits in your puppy and prevent undesirable and destructive ones. The crate is never a tool for punishment! TRAINING VIDEOS Mount Prospect Ice Arena Jump up ^ Wogan, Lisa (November 2010). “The Mirror Method”. The Bark. Retrieved 3 December 2012. Uploaded 2 weeks ago 4.6 Dominance-based training Dog Behavior Sold by: Amazon Digital Services LLC Training Mistakes Why Use a Dog Crate – and Is It Cruel to Crate a Dog? Give me a call! Biscuits & Bakery Bones & Rawhide Chewy Treats Dental Treats Jerky Training Treats Afghan Hound Loans If you’re not 100% satisfied, we’ll work to make it right—even retaking the class for free! Some trainers suggest playing tug-of-war with your puppy. The puppy learns that the game is fun, but is also controlled by you, the human at the other end of the toy. The fun will stop if the rules of the game aren’t honored, keeping everyone safe.[6][7] crate training puppies | how to train a puppy not to bark crate training puppies | barking puppies crate training puppies | stop puppy barking Legal | Sitemap

[centralparkpawsblog]

When to Switch Your Dog from Puppy to Adult Food

https://www.centralparkpaws.net/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/51k2xO4WL.jpg Yesterday, I received an email from a family that I helped adopt a dog from American Brittany Rescue (the rescue group I volunteer with).

Sadly, the dog that I helped place with them years ago died this past winter. They recently adopted another dog.

The new pup is only eight months old and they wanted to know when to change her from puppy to adult food.

I explained to them that for a medium-sized dog, it is usually around 12 months of age.

However, since I’m not familiar with their new dog and its health, I suggested they consult their vet first.

I switched Daisy a little later than usual since she was an extremely active puppy, and keeping weight on her was a chore. I added a sporting breed dog food to her food when she was about 13 months old, but kept her on a blend until she was almost two years old.

When I picked up Calvin and Ginger, they were both eight months old, but both extremely malnourished. I decided to keep them on puppy food a little longer than average, but only until they were about 14 months old.

When to change your puppy from puppy to adult food is a very common question and the answer isn’t always the same.

Knowing when to switch your pup to adult food depends a lot on the breed as well as your dog’s health and activity level.

The Difference Between Puppy and Adult Dog Food

Puppies require more specific and higher quantities of proteins and amino acids[1].

They also need more fat, calories, minerals, and vitamins than adult dogs.

Some puppy food manufacturers enhance their foods with omega-3 fatty acids, which help aid in mental development in puppies.

Also, some foods contain DHA, another type of fatty acid found in their mother’s milk.

The AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) has put together a chart representing the recommended minimum nutrient levels required for a healthy diet for puppies and dogs[2].

The AAFCO states when choosing a puppy food to look at the guaranteed analysis. Specifically, look at the levels of protein, fat, calcium, and phosphorus.

For most puppy foods, the guaranteed analysis should look have:

A minimum of 22.5% crude protein

A minimum of 8.5% crude fat

A minimum of 1.2% calcium – Not always listed

A minimum of 1.0% phosphorus – Not always listed

A more detailed list is available on the AAFCO website, which contains different vitamins and minerals.

However, large and giant breed puppies require less fat, calcium, and phosphorus[3].

The lower quantities of fat, calcium, and phosphorus aid in ensuring that the puppy doesn’t grow too rapidly.

If large or giant breed puppies grow too fast, it can result in orthopedic diseases frequently found in these breeds.

When Should You Change from Puppy to Adult Dog Food

The traditional rule is to change your puppy to adult food when they reach a specific age.

The age depends on the breed of your dog.

Smaller breed dogs are switched to adult dog food earlier than large breed dogs.

Large and giant breed dogs transition to adult dog food later in life since it is vital to slow their growth rate down.

Below is a guide on when to switch your dog based on their age and breed.

9 months old for toy breeds like Chihuahuas and miniatures like poodles or pinschers

12 months old for small and medium breeds like Brittanys, Border Collies, and Beagles

18-24 months old for large and giant breeds like Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, and Great Danes

Regardless of the breed, one month old puppies are too young for adult food!

Basing it on the breed and age is a general rule, but some individual dogs are on the bigger or smaller side of their breed’s range, and some dogs are a mix of breeds.

Also, dogs like Daisy, who can’t keep weight on, or a dog that is malnourished and underweight like Calvin and Ginger, may need to stay on puppy food for longer.

If you have a dog that has special needs or you aren’t positive what breed they are, you may want to base it on your dog’s current size and weight.

If you have a dog that needs to stay on puppy food for a longer or shorter time, you can use their size and weight as a guide.

Once your pup has reached 80%-90% of their full growth in size and weight, you can transition your puppy to an adult dog food.

How to Decide on an Adult Dog Food

It’s a good idea to read reviews before you choose a food for your dog. Say, have you checked out our Taste of the Wild review?

Transitioning your puppy to an adult dog food can be a difficult decision.

Often, I write about different dog food brands and the importance of deciding on the right food. It is just as important, if not more so, to choose the right dog food when transitioning from puppy to adult food.

When picking the best adult dog food, it is essential to consider:

Your dog’s weight

Your dog’s activity level

Your dog’s size

Ingredients

Availability

Price

For Daisy, I transitioned her to a sporting breed formula for extremely active dogs.

For, Calvin and Ginger, I transitioned them to a higher protein, high-calorie food.

But, for my mom’s Golden Retriever, Gussie, we put her on a large breed dog food, since she’s bigger and less active than my Brittanys.

Recommendations

Below are some options for high-quality dog foods for dogs with unique needs.

I will say that the AAFCO recommends that adult dog foods should have a guaranteed analysis that reflects:

A minimum of 18% crude protein

A minimum of 5.5% crude fat

A max of 4% fiber

Grain-Free Options

Taste of the Wild High Prairie

Purina Beyond Grain Free Beef and Egg

Large Breed Options

Purina Pro Plan FOCUS Large Breed Formula

Holistic Select Large & Giant Breed

Gentle Giants

Small Breed Options

IAMS Proactive Health Small & Toy Breed

Purina One SmartBlend Small Bites Beef and Rice

Hypoallergenic Option

Purina One SmartBlend True Instinct Salmon

Natural Balance Limited Ingredient Duck and Potato

Weight Management

Purina Pro Plan SAVOR Weight Management Formula

Merrick Grain Free Healthy Weight Option

How to Switch

Once you have decided on the right adult brand, then you will want to transition your pup over gradually.

It usually takes about 8-10 days to make the full switch.

Also, when changing your puppy over to adult dog food, many people begin to change the quantity of food and frequency of feedings.

Most puppies need to eat about four times a day, and as they transition to adult food, they don’t need to eat that frequently.

So, while transitioning your pup’s diet, you can also transition to fewer meal times as well.

Most adult dogs eat only 2-3 times a day; it just depends on your dog’s energy level and overall health.

Daisy eats three times a day, even as a senior. When Daisy was younger, she needed additional calories, but as a senior, she can’t eat large meals, so instead she eats smaller meals more frequently.

Do you have your own senior pup and don’t know what to feed him or her? Check out this list of the best senior dog foods!

Final Thoughts

Deciding on a new food for our dogs can be a challenging task, but switching a puppy to an adult food can seem even more daunting.

As dog parents, we don’t want to get it wrong. Instead, we want to make sure our pups have the best food and care we can give them.

One of the most helpful ways we can keep our dogs happy and healthy is through proper nutrition.

If you are ever uncertain about when to switch your puppy to adult dog food, such as if you have a puppy that you aren’t positive of their breed, or if your pup has health issues, or maybe you even just have a high energy pup:

Ask your vet.

Never feel self-conscious about asking your vet questions. They’ve heard them all.

For new dog parents, having a puppy isn’t always easy, and no one expects you to have all of the answers.

Even with my background, things are ever-changing, so I always take the time to research when new challenges or changes happen in my dogs’ world.

FAQs

Can you feed a puppy adult dog food?

It is safe to feed your puppy a food listed as “formulated for all life stages.”

All life stages foods are created to meet the dietary needs of dogs from puppy to senior.

However, it is recommended to use a puppy formulated food since it is specially designed for growing puppies and likely to be higher than the minimal nutritional recommendations.

When to switch from puppy to adult food for a Labrador?

18-24 months old or when they reach 80-90% of their full size.

When to switch from puppy to adult food for a Chihuahua?

9-12 months old or when they reach 80-90% of their full size.

When to switch from puppy to adult food for a Pitbull?

18-24 months old or when they reach 80-90% of their full size.

Resources

https://www.vetinfo.com/daily-nutritional-requirements-for-dogs.html

https://www.aafco.org/Portals/0/SiteContent/Regulatory/Committees/Pet-Food/Reports/Pet_Food_Report_2013_Midyear-Proposed_Revisions_to_AAFCO_Nutrient_Profiles.pdf

https://www.petmd.com/blogs/nutritionnuggets/dr-coates/2016/january/whats-difference-between-adult-dog-food-and-puppy-food

The post When to Switch Your Dog from Puppy to Adult Food appeared first on Central Park Paws.

from https://www.centralparkpaws.net/dog-food/when-switch-puppy-adult-dog-food/

[josephkitchen0]

Lessons From a Neverending Battle Against Bumblefoot in Chickens

By Brittany Thompson, Georgia

As long as I have been raising poultry, one of the most common problems I experience is bumblefoot in chickens. Here is what I have learned…

Lesson #1: What Is Bumblefoot?

“Bumblefoot” is the term used to describe an infection on a chicken’s foot; it is referred to as “plantar pododermatitis” by medical professionals. Bumblefoot is characterized by swelling, sometimes redness and often a characteristic black or brown scab on the bottom of the foot. Left untreated, serious cases of bumblefoot can be fatal as the infection can spread to other tissues and bones. After serious cases have healed, the foot or toes may be scarred for life have an abnormal appearance. Your chicken may never walk normally again. I have seen cases from other flocks where the infection had gotten so bad the whole foot of the chicken was swollen with infection.

Bumblefoot

Lesson #2: What Causes Bumblefoot in Chickens?

Bumblefoot results when the skin of the foot is compromised in some way, allowing bacteria to invade the foot, causing infection. Broken skin allows bacteria (e.g. staphylococcus) to get into the foot, which leads to a pus-filled abscess. The entry point for bacteria can be a cut, scrape, injury, or breakdown of the skin from walking on wet, dirty bedding. Injuries can result from a splintered roost or repetitive, heavy landings from heights, particularly in heavy breeds and obese chickens. In my personal experience, bumblefoot in chickens seems to happen even when they are free range like mine are. Whatever the cause, failure to treat it can result in the spread of the infection to the bones and tendons, debilitating pain and death.

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Lesson #3: What Prevents Bumblefoot?

1. Know what to feed chickens. They require a complete, balanced diet to avoid vitamin deficiencies and obesity that put them at risk of contracting bumblefoot. Laying hens need a complete layer ration with an additional calcium source such as crushed oyster shells or well-crushed eggshells available to them in a separate feeder. Do not feed your chickens a lot of table scraps and treats. This can, of course, lead to obesity.

2. Roosts should be splinter-free and less than 18 inches from the floor.

3. Coop litter should be kept dry and as clean as possible to avoid bacteria and chicken parasites. Consider using sand instead of pine shavings or straw in the coop and run. Any spills drain away from the surface of sand quickly, and sand is not as hospitable to bacterial growth as other litter types and it coats and desiccates droppings, which results in cleaner feet.

4. Always do a routine check up on everyone’s feet! This is one of the most important prevention methods for chicken foot problems. All of the prevention methods may not completely prevent bumblefoot in chickens, which is a very common problem and can happen to any chicken. I have found the same hens get it over and over so be on high alert for those chickens that have gotten it more than twice. They seem to be most likely to get the infection over and over again and it may occur in the exact same places as before.

Common symptoms of bumblefoot are limping or lameness, swollen feet and toes, redness of the foot and black scabs on the foot pads or toes. Photo by Brittany Thompson.

Lesson #4: A Case Study

I recently had the worst case of bumblefoot I have ever treated. One of my 2.5-year-old Silver Laced Wyandotte hens, Haley, started out three months ago with just a small black scab under one of her toes. I did what I usually did when I found bumblefoot in chickens: home surgery. This is usually what any backyard chicken keeper does when they find bumblefoot. Eventually, the skin around the wound fell off, leaving her toe bone under her toe exposed. The infection spread to her footpad and ankle area, even after we tried at least three antibiotics, including Penicillin G, Baytril and Cephalexin.

After we had tried the lower end antibiotics, my longtime vet, Dr. Dean Campell, (Heart of Georgia Animal Care located in Milledgeville, Georgia) recommended Amoxicillin/ clavulanic acid twice a day. We gave her 2 milliliters of the powder mixed with 48 milliliters of water twice a day with a syringe. She started the infection in May 2014, and her infection cleared in August 2014, a very long heal time. She now has a scarred toe that looks bigger than her other toes.

In July 2014, my 5-year-old Rhode Island Red hen, Chirpy, had a foot pad that also got infected badly. She had a nickel-sized hole in the bottom of her foot. For her, my vet recommended Amoxicillin/clavulanic acid at a stronger dose than was used for Haley. Also given to me was a recipe for something called Dakin’s Solution. Dead tissue with this wound was the biggest problem. It had to be cleaned out for several days in a row.

Just a small scar remains after healing.

In September 2014, Chirpy still had the bumblefoot. The wound had been slow to heal and she had to have checkups with the vet. Chirpy was prescribed, at my suggestion, a cream called Silver Sulfadiazine, most commonly used on people with burns or bad infections.

This cream is stronger than over the counter antibiotic creams. Chirpy had been prescribed the Amoxicillin/clavulanic acid when the infection set in. In October 2014, Chirpy was switched to Wonder Dust powder. This worked for the infection and her foot is finally healing.

Have you had to deal with bumblefoot in chickens? Do you have any advice to share?

Brittany Thompson lives in the backwoods of middle Georgia and raises chickens and turkeys. All questions, comments/critiques, and your stories/photos of your poultry are very encouraged and welcome. You can find her on Facebook under Brittany’s Fresh Eggs or e-mail her at concreterose2013@icloud.com.

Originally published in Backyard Poultry December 2014/January 2015 and regularly vetted for accuracy.

Lessons From a Neverending Battle Against Bumblefoot in Chickens was originally posted by All About Chickens