#narcotic bohemic
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ANOMALIA PARIS - NARCOTIC BOHEMIC - Eau de Parfum -
The way you make me feel… Always looking forward to something remarkably enthralling every time I’m about to press the vaporizer…And here it is. That’s what makes me feel free to be me.
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Sette fragranze sui generis per Anomalia Paris. Lontane dall’ovvio, dai luoghi comuni, da certe impersonali narrazioni, così atipiche nella sostanza e con un fatale plus, essere oltremisura immaginifiche, sfrontate, astutamente versatili.
Una collezione che non conosce frontiere, non pone limiti all’indagare ogni aspetto del piacere, che sa ampliare gli orizzonti su nuove emozioni, stimolare ignote capacità percettive, intercettare nuove frequenze sensoriali e inedite consonanze aromatiche.
E che spavaldo blend è stato immaginato per Narcotic Bohemic, un inconsueto, affascinante metissage olfattivo, buono per risvegliare certi feeling in stallo, creato per spronarti a godere la vita in tutte le sue possibili declinazioni sensoriali.
Immediata la piacevolezza nel lasciarsi afferrare da questa sensazione primigenia di libertà, dai sussurri dell'istinto, nessuna regola in campo, docilmente in ascolto della mia anima scapigliata.
Che sappia creare dipendenza è lampante, si impossessa della pelle con un merrygoround aromatico composito, ipnotico e penetrante, provoca ma è spassosamente conviviale e indulge nella lentezza di certe sere d'estate, appese al plenilunio.
Piccante di spezie remote in nitida pienezza, cardamomo, salvia sclarea, chiodi di garofano rivelano un approccio balsamico al limite del lenitivo. Nell'evoluzione si impone la sfumatura più sensuale e dissoluta, note acute di caffè, tabacco e un rimando audace alla nuance cuoio. Qui ciò che pareva una promessa proibita muta in dolcezza inaspettata, si alza morbido e rotondo un sillage di beatitudine con l'ineffabile grazia dell'iris, il soffice toffee della tonka, la nostalgia a velo del legno di cedro.
Parfum Fétiche.
Rimarchevole la cura dei dettagli per il pack design che guarda al futuro nel segno di sostenibilità e upcycling. Splendidi il flacone realizzato da Pochet du Courval di sapore vintage, i contenitori delle candele profumate e i diffusori di aromi, tutti rigorosamente ricaricabili.
Eau de Parfum 70 ml. Online qui
©thebeautycove @igbeautycove
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Perfumes for Vorkosigan Saga Characters
There are enough offhand references to fragrance in the Vorkosigan books that I strongly suspect Lois McMaster Bujold of being a perfume enthusiast. Also it's fun to imagine what the characters would wear.
Aral and Miles Vorkosigan
Miles is sometimes noted to wear a traditional masculine cologne, and he strikes me as the sort to wear the same thing his father does, as a sort of default grooming routine. You don't get much more traditional and correct than Chanel Monsieur, a mossy, bone-dry cologne/chypre hybrid.
Cordelia Vorkosigan
As the author-insert character, I think Cordelia enjoys perfume and knows exactly what she wants. I picture her in my beloved vintage Rochas Mystere, an earthy, outdoorsy, yet elegant chypre, with lots of brisk cypress and a rusty warm carnation heart to match her auburn hair.
Alys Vorpatril
Alys is a lady of a certain age with excellent taste, and therefore appreciates the formal, embellished perfection of Divine, a classical aldehydic floral weighted towards tuberose.
Ivan Vorpatril
Ivan has no taste of his own; once he got old enough to try dousing himself in body spray as a teen, his mother bought him a bottle of Divine L'Etre Aime Homme, a classically French masculine with a warm, smoky immortelle note, which sets off his darkly athletic good looks.
Elena Bothari-Jesek
Elena, I think, came to perfume later in life, finding a balm in a private feminine pleasure that wasn't part of her rigidly militaristic youth. She'd appreciate something delicate and poignant, like YSL Paris, a rose-violet powder-puff scent.
Bel Thorne
Bel was once mentioned wearing "floral perfume" to emphasize its feminine side. The adventurous Betan mercenary strikes me as a tuberose fan, and I imagine it wearing something like Frederic Malle Carnal Flower -- bold, sleek, streamlined, stylish but not too obscure. (Bel is, at heart, a bit of a normie.)
Elli Quinn
Space-station-born Elli is used to being in confined spaces with strangers, so she never wears perfume -- she even insists on unscented soaps. But she might have picked up a bottle of Etat Libre d'Orange Secretions Magnifiques as a vile practical joke (it smells, very realistically, like vomit.)
Taura
Taura's genetic enhancements gave her an exceptional sense of smell, and her lust for life and enthusiastic experiments in feminine presentation suggest she would absolutely try out perfume, but she's not analytical enough to get super into it. Somebody gives her Narciso Rodriguez For Her, a basic sweet floral musk, and she sticks with that.
Cavilo
The sociopathic mercenary Cavilo is described as wearing a very sharp green floral perfume that gives Miles allergies. I imagine this as Tom Ford Vert Boheme, a clean, contemporary take on the classic 1970s green florals, which smells exactly like a crisp green leaf before opening out into a ladylike magnolia.
Pel Navarr
The Cetagandans are perfume-lovers, so the aristocratic haut Pel would certainly wear perfume. Given her restrained, elevated tastes, I picture her in Parfums MDCI Le Cri De La Lumiere, a barely-there, sparkling-white iris-rose concoction of surpassing purity.
Lilly Durona
I have a soft spot for the Durona Group -- rogue ancap bioengineering clone family of my heart. In her artificially extended lifespan, the matriarch Lilly must have tried her hand at perfuming at some point, and probably invented a few new aromachemicals of her own. All the Durona women have flower names, and I imagine Lilly wears her namesake via something similar to Serge Lutens Un Lys, the most realistic, narcotic, honey-dripping lily scent ever.
Mark Vorkosigan
We know Mark's visual aesthetic tends towards the dark and gloomy, his gustatory tastes run towards the sweet and indulgent, and his erotic tastes are, um, both. There's only one right answer here and it's Bvlgari Black: fetishy black rubber up top, birthday-cake sweet vanilla below.
Enrique Borgos
Enrique is a nerd, and in his own way an aesthetic soul. I guarantee you he is interested in perfume, and he'd gravitate to the perfumer's perfumer, the chemist Christophe Laudamiel. He would be fascinated by the strange "neon-hologram" effect in The Zoo Spacewood.
Kareen Koudelka
Kareen's adventurous nature probably took her to try some perfumes on Beta Colony, and she'd invariably gravitate to warm, cozy ambers and gourmands. I can see her in the unpretentious burnt-caramel smell of Kerosene Broken Theories.
Ekaterin Vorsoisson
The reserved, introverted Ekaterin has "unerring taste". Which means, in an olfactory context, she's probably figured out that Liz Moores is one of the best living perfumers. I have Ekaterin pegged for an iris lover, so she wears Papillon Angelique, a delicate, rustic spring iris with subtle, velvety layers of texture.
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Tom Ford Quick Takes
Tom Ford is an easy perfume house to hate. They charge way too much for their fragrances, they advertise a crass, frat-boy image, and they’re responsible for the single worst-smelling perfume I’ve yet encountered, Black Orchid.
But the Private Blend line of upscale fragrances includes some gems.
Neroli Portofino
Notes: bergamot, mandarin, lemon, bitter orange, myrtle, rosemary, lavender; neroli, orange blossom, jasmine, pittosporum; amber, ambrette, angelica
This is a cologne, very close to the classic 4711, but more intensely floral -- I get juicy orange, swooning orange blossom, and spacious, radiant neroli. Bright and powerful. <3
Mandarino di Amalfi
Notes: tarragon, mint, blackcurrant, grapefruit, lemon, basil; orange blossom, clary sage, shiso, jasmine, black pepper, coriander; vetiver, amber, labdanum, musk, civet
This is also a bracing, citrusy cologne, but cooler, drier, more herbal and less floral than Neroli Portofino. There’s a metallic, crystalline chill to it, which may be from the clary sage and/or mint.
Fleur de Portofino
Notes: Bergamot, lemon, tangerine, petitgrain, violet leaf, syringa; osmanthus, black locust, magnolia, orange blossom, rose, jasmine; honey, labdanum, vanilla, tolu balsam, ambrette, civet
This is brightly fruity, and smells vividly of cantaloupe melon to me. Not the watery calone “melon” note, or the green-juicy melon in Diorella, but a sweet, orange-pink, musky melon. It might be an illusion created by osmanthus (a flower with an apricot-like scent) in combination with tangerine. Behind the fruit, there are honeyed white flowers. It’s like eating a fruit salad on a rooftop terrace overlooking the sea. Charming, but maybe a little juvenile.
Sole di Positano
Notes: Mandarin, lemon, bergamot, bitter orange, petitgrain; orange blossom, neroli, shiso, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily of the valley; oakmoss
This smells lemony, delicate, and rather dark and somber, like antique bric-a-brac.
Costa Azzurra
Notes: driftwood, seaweed, oud, ambrette, celery seeds, cardamom; lemon, lavender, juniper, mandarin, wormwood, myrtle; oak, incense, mastic, frankincense, vanilla
This is powerfully herbal and astringent and I love it. It’s a potent, refreshing, bitter tonic. I’m probably getting the juniper/wormwood/myrtle combination the strongest. Juniper, here, is fragrant evergreen needles, not a gin note. Overall this smells like evergreen shrubs and bitter herbs against a dazzling blue sky.
Fougere D’Argent
Notes: mandarin, lavender, ginger; labdanum, akigalawood; tonka
This is a style of men’s perfume I find obnoxious; creamy-fatty-sweet tonka over a masculine lavender/coumarin fougere chord and a faintly animalic base. It’s louche and smug and kinda gross.
Fougere Platine
Notes: clary sage, bergamot, lavender, basil; wormwood, frankincense, labdanum, honey; tobacco, cedar, woody notes
The clary sage really comes out here and smells almost like tinfoil. Cruelly metallic. There’s also dark bitter tobacco.
Beau du Jour
Notes: lavender; rosemary, geranium, mint, oakmoss, basil; patchouli, amber
Wow. This is beautiful, in a way that’s very difficult to express. Serious, dark, reverent, almost scholarly. My notes say “Indian?” and I’m not sure what that is, though another blogger smells cardamom and saffron. Apparently it’s a throwback to 80′s men’s scents like Zino or YSL Rive Gauche pour Homme.
Jasmin Rouge
Notes: cinnamon, ginger, bergamot, cardamom, pepper, orange; jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli, broom, clary sage; amber, vanilla, woods, leather, labdanum
This just smells like jasmine. Exactly like the jasmine flowers on my street. Lovely, realistic, rather mild-mannered. Nothing “rouge” about it.
Cafe Rose
Notes: rose, saffron, black pepper; coffee; incense, amber, sandalwood, patchouli
This is a tea rose: dewy, fresh, and old-fashioned. Resting on a dusty, woody, faintly-smoky, faded base; there’s also something ambery-fruity going on. And maybe even some green notes. Lots of complexity, but all in a very muted key. No coffee.
Vert Boheme
Notes: galbanum, magnolia, violet leaf, honeysuckle, woods, mandarin
This is a plant. A shiny, dark-green, waxy, chlorophyll-rich leaf, like a rubber tree plant. I’m guessing it’s the violet leaf. Apparently this is a reboot of vintage Cristalle. I’ve rarely met an intensely leafy fragrance I didn’t like; I feel very marketed to.
Vert D’Encens
Notes: resin, pine, incense, fir, boxwood, heliotrope, woods
The heliotrope predominates and smells overwhelmingly of Play-Doh. Behind it, there’s sweet rot. Not good.
White Suede
Notes: thyme, green tea; lily of the valley, saffron, rose; suede, musk, sandalwood, amber, frankincense
This is fascinating in that it doesn’t smell like a perfume at all. It smells like an art supply store. Wholly artificial, with a strange paint-like, choking effect -- not sure how else to say it, but it’s totally “flat”, with no depth. I wouldn’t call it pretty, but if you want an extremely minimalist and impersonal effect, it does that.
Tuscan Leather
Notes: raspberry, saffron, thyme; frankincense, jasmine; leather, suede, woods, amber
Fruity, stinky, piney, bonfire-y leather. Almost like a fruit liqueur juxtaposed with smoke and leather. Very striking and new (to me) combination of notes; nothing at all like the other leather perfumes I’ve smelled. Bold and legible to the point of being almost vulgar, but in a good way.
Soleil Blanc
Notes: pistachio, bergamot, cardamom, pink pepper; ylang-ylang, tuberose, jasmine; coconut, amber, tonka, benzoin
Suntan lotion.
Noir de Noir
Notes: rose, patchouli, black truffle, vanilla, oud, saffron, oakmoss
This actually smells “dark.” Alcoholic, bittersweet. I didn’t recognize it as “rosy” at all; it’s just a potent, narcotic, inky essence.
Champaca Absolute
Notes: cognac, bergamot, dyer’s greenweed; champaca, orchid, violet, jasmine; tolu balsam, vanilla, sandalwood, amber
There’s a fruity element to champaca, which is otherwise a creamy-golden tropical “white floral”. The effect is lush yet peaceful and delicate. The boozy opening note smells more like plum wine to me.
Plum Japonais
Notes: cinnamon, saffron; plum, immortelle, camellia, liquor, cypress; oud, amber, fir, benzoin, vanilla
My initial thought was “this is like Lutens” -- sweet, spicy, and ominous, full of cinnamon-stewed-plum richness. According to the internet, it’s an inferior ripoff of Fille en Aiguilles.
Vanille Fatale
Notes: myrrh, frankincense, rum, saffron, coriander, lime, orange; barley, coffee, frangipani, plum, wormwood, rose; vanilla, suede, mahogany, tobacco, patchouli, violet, oakmoss
Heavy, rich, ambery vanilla. Rich and ominous. Smells basically identical to other dark vanilla perfumes.
Tobacco Vanille
Notes: tobacco, spices; vanilla, cacao, tonka; dried fruit, woods
Fragrant, light sweet tobacco; less heavy than Chergui.
Oud Fleur
Notes: Oud, rose, resins, patchouli, sandalwood
Very tender and gentle May rose.
Oud Wood
Notes: Oud, rosewood, sandalwood, cardamom, vanilla, vetiver, sichuan pepper, amber
Mellow, rich and smooth, stinky-sexy oud.
Patchouli Absolu
Notes: patchouli, leather, cypriol, oakmoss, oud, bay, rosemary, cashmeran, amber, musk, tonka
A more civilized, likable patchouli than the raw stinkiness of Monsieur. Still feels Eastern Mediterranean, but now less “hairy man taking out the trash” and more “romantic outdoor dinner, under a trellis, with the summer night wind blowing through.”
Oud Minerale
Notes: salt, seawater, seaweed, oud, pink pepper, styrax, ambergris, pepperwood, balsam fir
This does smell mineral! It’s like the bottom of a swimming pool, or like a river stone: smooth, wet, and dark-gray.
Oud Wood Intense
Notes: castoreum, oud, cypress, juniper, angelica, ginger
This is woody and restful, like a spa or a cabin in the forest.
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