#mm pest control

[mmpest098]

5 Ways to Keep Your Home Pest-Free

Introduction

Pests can be a serious problem for homeowners, causing damage to property and posing health risks. Whether it’s termites, rodents, cockroaches, or mosquitoes, keeping your home pest-free is essential. In this guide, we’ll explore the top five ways to prevent pests from invading your home.

1. Maintain Cleanliness

A clean home is the first step toward preventing pest infestations. Follow these simple cleaning tips:

Regularly sweep, mop, and vacuum floors to remove food crumbs.

Dispose of garbage daily and keep trash bins covered.

Clean kitchen counters and dining areas to eliminate food residue.

Store food in sealed containers to avoid attracting pests.

2. Seal Entry Points

Pests can enter your home through small cracks and openings. Here’s how to block their access:

Inspect doors, windows, and walls for any gaps or cracks.

Use caulk or weather stripping to seal small openings.

Install mesh screens on windows and ventilation areas.

Repair broken tiles, pipes, and drainage systems to prevent moisture buildup.

3. Remove Standing Water

Water sources attract pests like mosquitoes and cockroaches. Reduce water accumulation by:

Fixing leaky pipes and faucets.

Emptying stagnant water in flower pots, bird baths, and coolers.

Keeping the kitchen and bathroom dry.

Cleaning water drains to prevent clogging.

4. Use Natural & Professional Pest Control Solutions

Preventive measures help keep pests away. Try these solutions:

Use natural repellents like neem oil, vinegar, or essential oils.

Set up traps and baits for rodents and cockroaches.

Use pest control sprays in areas prone to infestations.

Hire professional pest control services for deep and long-lasting treatment.

5. Schedule Regular Pest Control Services

Even with preventive measures, some pests can be persistent. Hiring professional pest control experts ensures:

Thorough home inspection for hidden pest infestations.

Use of eco-friendly pest control treatments.

Long-term pest prevention strategies.

Peace of mind for a pest-free home.

Why Choose MM Pest Control?

✅ Expert pest control solutions in Patna.

✅ Safe and eco-friendly treatments.

✅ Affordable pricing with guaranteed results.

✅ 24/7 customer support.

📌 Get a free pest inspection today! Visit www.mmpestcontrol.in or call 7563835462.

Conclusion

Protecting your home from pests is easier than you think. By following these five preventive measures and choosing professional pest control services, you can ensure a safe and healthy living environment. Stay pest-free with MM Pest Control!

[uncharismatic-fauna]

No Tears for the Southern Black Widow

Latrodectus mactans, more commonly known as the southern black widow, is the most common species in the black widow family. While it can be found throughout North America, they are found most often in the southern United States. Within this wide range, L. mactans enjoys a variety of habitats. They prefer areas that are close to the ground, dark, and sheltered; in the wild this may mean dense brush or under logs, while in inhabited areas they may be found in basements, log piles, or under trash lids.

In addition to being the most common black widow, L. mactans is also the largest member of the family Theridiidae. The females are larger than the males, averaging at about 8-10 mm (0.31- 0.39 in) in length and weighing about 1 g (0.04 oz); however the male's legs are generally longer than the females. Both males and females are black, with small thoraxes and extremely large, round abdomens. The female can be distinguished by the iconic red hour-glass shape on the underside of her abdomen, while the male has 4 pairs of red and white stripes on each side of his abdomen.

The southern black widow is mainly solitary, spending most of its time in or near its web. Only the females live long enough to build a web for catching prey, and are the sole source of black widow bites. While bites do require medical attention, no human fatalities have been reported since 1983.

During the day, females hang in the center of the web to expose the bright red warning on their abdomen; when startled they drop to the ground and play dead. Though the webs they construct are haphazard-- the stereotype of cobwebs-- they are extremely strong and are capable of catching woodlice, millipedes, centipedes, other spiders, and occasionally small mice. Once an animal becomes trapped in L. mactan's web, the spider envenoms its prey and wraps it in a thick cocoon. After the animal dies the spider injects it with digestive enzymes and consumes the resulting fluid. Despite their strong venom, the southern black widow can be victim to several predaotrs; namely wasps, the brown widow spider, praying mantises, and large centipedes.

The southern black widow mates primarily in the spring and summer. Mature males build small webs and deposit semen along the threads. He then coats his mouthpieces-- palps-- with sperm and sets out to find a female mate. To court her, he vibrates the threads of her web until she is receptive. On rare occasions, a displeased female may eat the male. Afterwards, if he survives, the male leaves the females web and dies soon afterwards. From just one encounter, the female can store enough sperm to last her a lifetime of reproductive cycles.

After fertilization, the female builds a small web where she lays her egg sac, which can contain up to 400 eggs. She guards these eggs until they hatch about 20 days later, and immedietly disperse to establish their own territories. Until they become fully mature, at about 90 days old, juveniles have no venom and are extremely vulnerable to predators- including adult black widows. Typically only about 30 individuals from a single clutch survive to adulthood. Once mature, males can live for only one year, while females can live up to three years in the wild.

Conservation status: The IUCN has not evaluated the southern black widow, but due to its large range and population size it is considered stable. It is able to adapt to most habitats, and thus the species' only threat comes from extermination via pest control.

If you send me proof that you’ve made a donation to UNRWA or another organization benefiting Palestinians, I’ll make art of any animal of your choosing.

Photos

Mark Kostich

James L. Castner

Meghan F. Murphy

[bestanimal]

Round 2 - Arthropoda - Insecta

(Sources - 1, 2, 3, 4)

Our last athropods, the hexapod crustacean class Insecta, is one of the most successful groups of animal on earth. They are the most diverse, with over a million known species, comprising more than half of all eukaryote (animals, plants, fungi, etc) species, making them the “Default Animal.” They are comprised of three main groups: Archaeognatha (“Jumping Bristletails”), Zygentoma (“Silverfish” and “Firebrats”), and Pterygota (winged or secondarily wingless insects).

As hexapods, insects have a three-part body plan: head, thorax with 6 legs, and abdomen. They have compound eyes (some in addition to ocelli) and a pair of antennae. Many groups have 1-2 pairs of wings as adults. Insects have many means of perceiving the world: compound eyes and ocelli for seeing, tympanal organs for hearing, and receptors on the antennae and mouthparts for smelling. They live in almost every environment and occupy almost every niche. Many are aquatic, or have aquatic larvae. They are the first animals to have evolved flight. Some are solitary, some are social, some live in large, well-organized colonies. Some communicate with pheromones, some with sounds, some with bioluminescence. Some are venomous, some are poisonous. Most insects hatch from eggs, though some are birthed live. Some hatch as miniature adults, some go through a partial metamorphosis in which the larval stage looks vastly different from the adults, and some go through a complete metamorphosis in which a nearly immobile pupa is formed. Some insects provide maternal care. Some are carnivores, some herbivores, some omnivores, some parasites. Some spend most of their lives in their larval stage, and don’t even feed as adults. Due to the high diversity of insects, it would be impossible for me to summarize them further!

Fossil insects are known from the Paleozoic Era, during which they achieved large sizes, such as the giant dragonfly-like Meganeuropsis permiana, with an estimated wingspan of up to 710 millimetres (28 in), and a body length from head to tail of almost 430 millimetres (17 in).

Propaganda under the cut:

Insects are absolutely critical in all ecosystems, forming the base of the food chain, turning and aerating soil, controlling pests, encouraging or controlling the growth of plants, scavenging and recycling biological materials, and creating topsoil. Without insects, our planet would die.

There are many contenders for “largest insect.” The Giant Stick Insect (Phobaeticus serratipes) is the longest insect in the world, with specimens recorded at over 56 cm (22 inches), including their legs. The Giant Weta (Deinacrida heteracantha) is the heaviest, with a record of 2.5 ounces. Queen Alexandra’s Birdwing (Ornithoptera alexandrae) has the largest wingspan, which reaches up to 30 cm (1 foot) wide.

Meanwhile, the smallest known adult insect is a parasitic wasp, Dicopomorpha echmepterygis, commonly called “Fairyflies”. Males are wingless, blind and measure only 0.127 mm long.

Many insects are popular pets, including various species of mantis, cockroach, beetle, moth, and ant! Some are even domesticated, including silk moths and honeybees.

Many insects are eaten by humans, and farming insects for food is considered more sustainable than farming large chordates. These farmed arthropods are referred to as “minilivestock.”

Shellac is a resin secreted by the female Lac Bug (Kerria lacca) on trees in the forests of India and Thailand. It is used as a brush-on colorant, food glaze, natural primer, sanding sealant, tannin-blocker, odour-blocker, stain, and high-gloss varnish. It was once used in electrical applications as an insulator, and was used to make phonograph and gramophone records until it was replaced by vinyl.

One of the biggest ecosystem services insects provide for humans is pollination. Crops where pollinator insects are essential include brazil nuts, cocoa beans, and fruits including kiwi, melons, and pumpkins. Crops where pollinator insects provide 40-90% of pollination include avocados, nuts like cashews and almonds, and fruits like apples, apricots, blueberries, cherries, mangoes, peaches, plums, pears, and raspberries. In crops where pollinators are not essential they still increase production and yield. Important pollinators include bees, flies, wasps, butterflies, and moths.

Many insects are sacred to humans. In Ancient Egypt, scarab beetles were used in art, religious ceremonies, and funerary practices, and were represented by the god Khepri. Bees supposedly grew from the tears of the sun god Ra, spilled across the desert sand. The Kalahari Desert's San People tell of a legendary hero, Mantis, who asked a bee to guide him to find the purpose of life. When the bee became weary from their search, he left the mantis on a floating flower, and planted a seed within him before passing from his exhaustion. The first human was born from this seed. Dragonflies symbolize pure water in Navajo tradition. In an Ancient Greek hymn, Eos, the goddess of the dawn, requests of Zeus to let her lover Tithonus live forever as an immortal. Tithonus became immortal, but not ageless, and eventually became so small, old, and shriveled that he turned into the first cicada. Another hymn sings of the Thriae, a trinity of Aegean bee nymphs. Native Athenians wore golden grasshopper brooches to symbolize that they were of pure, Athenian lineage. In an Ancient Sumerian poem, a fly helps the goddess Inanna when her husband Dumuzid is being chased by galla demons. In Japanese culture, butterflies carry many meanings, from being the souls of humans to symbols of youth to guides into the afterlife. Ancient Romans also believed that butterflies were the souls of the dead. Some of the Nagas of Manipur claim ancestry from a butterfly. Many cultures use the butterfly as a symbol of rebirth. And the list goes on…

[stabbyfoxandrew]

hiii, i missed the last couple wipws but i caught today's in time!! how are you?

exam season sucks and i'm not up to date, but could i request dealer's choice between arson neil and mafia front? i'll read the last parts of each during my study breaks this weeks :)

i hope your back doesn't hurt and your computer is behaving and that you have a good week in general <33 and also that you draw the mer boysss hehe

WIP Wednesday (5/14) | Mafia Front Restaurant AU (Part 317)

"I suppose you have a point."

"Mm, you must be extremely valuable for him to overlook your matching attitude problems. I feel most mob bosses would frown upon those. But what do I know."

"Actually Ichirou doesn't know about my sparkling personality. Or Jean's either."

"Reserved for me, then? Aren't I lucky?" Andrew says, earning a snicker.

"Yeah, friends and family only. Little boss thinks I'm a yes man."

"Little boss." Andrew repeats, amused. Neil's eyes go wide for half a second and he grimaces slightly.

"That's what my uncle calls him— Ichirou."

"Delightful."

"Yeah. Stuart doesn't particularly like being under a man half his age," Neil explains. Andrew stomps the impulse to make some sort of vulgar joke. "Anyway, I don't much care for Ichirou's reasoning as long as we get rid of the fuckers."

Andrew thinks about this for a moment. "Maybe it's just... pest control." A thin brow raises across from him. "You know, like when you realize a mouse has gotten into your pantry. Killing one isn't enough. You have to get all of them and destroy the entire nest or more will show up trying to take what's not theirs. In extreme cases you have to get an exterminator. That's you, yes?"

Neil laughs, a puff of air dances across Andrew's jaw. "Yeah. I suspect my uncle'll be calling me in the next few days. He says he's working on getting us an in. A big meeting in a warehouse with all the Wolves present— that's what they call themselves. Wolves." Neil looks a moment away from rolling his eyes and Andrew wonders what's so offensive about it.

"Charming. What do you call yourselves?"

Neil opens his mouth but before he can say a word, the kitchen door bursts open and startles them both. As they each fall back into their respective booths, Andrew glances over to see Kevin Day himself approaching the table. Something in Andrew's stomach rolls over and dies. What is he doing out here? In all the time Andrew's been showing up to bother Neil, Kevin's never stepped foot out of the kitchen. Jean, occasionally. Neil, obviously. But Kevin? Never. He seemed to be avoiding Andrew as much as Andrew was trying to avoid him. Until now.

As Kevin gets closer and closer, Andrew suddenly takes interest in his formerly abandoned game of solitaire. He picks up the deck he'd cast to the side earlier and focuses on the cards in front of him, drawing three.

Three.

Three.

Three. From the counter of his eye he sees the toes of Kevin's shoes land next to the booth, trapping him in.

"Hi." Kevin says. It sounds more like an exhale than a word. Andrew does not respond. He will not respond. If he ignores Kevin he will go away. Worked like a charm last time, after all. Andrew went up for a smoke and came back ten minutes later to an empty dorm. He can play cards for ten minutes. Kevin clears his throat then, as if he thinks Andrew didn't hear him. Can't see him. "I need to talk to you, Andrew."

At his name, Andrew's resolve splits into a thousand shimmering pieces. He braces himself before looking expectantly up at Kevin and trying not to let himself be completely unstrung by this stupid, gorgeous asshole. Bracing himself is not enough. Kevin looks so different, but exactly the same. Seven years older, not a day wiser, still beautiful beyond all reason. He looks like he did the last time Andrew was this close to him: on the verge of a panic attack. Andrew will not be kissing this one away, that's for damned sure.

[lilacliquors]

kinktober day two: edging

pairing: soldier boy x reader

word count: 425

notes: im so tired from work but here's day two! plus i'm on my period early so that knocked me on my ass today but the show must go on, even thought it's shorter —

he’d never felt so helpless before, and he wasn’t sure how to handle it. he was at your mercy, and it took every bit of restraint he had not to pounce on you, pinning you beneath him before pounding into you mercilessly. but he had made a bet with you, and he wasn’t going to give in. 

you’d been edging him for hours now, seeing just how long he could last, and to his credit, he was doing a lot better than you had expected. because you knew who and what he was.

everyone knew soldier boy was a sex fiend, a sex pest, a pervert, you name it. but he didn’t care, he never gave a single fuck. but he was used to the instant gratification, knowing that he was going to get off when he wanted to, not when someone else made the decision for him. so when you made the challenge, betting him a free fuck in whatever position the winner wanted, that he couldn’t handle the lack of control. and now he wasn’t sure if he regretted this decision. but he was never one to back down from a challenge.

“how — oh, shit — how much longer?” he growled.

“mm, not sure. however long i feel like,” you replied, your voice laced with mock uncertainty. you had him right where you wanted him, and you knew he was getting frustrated. you could see the fire in his eyes, and you swore you saw him twitch, just eager to pounce on you. but he was determined now, he was going to see this through. he was lucky that the v gave him enhanced stamina, but he was getting antsy, and he was about to tear a hole in the sheets.

“you’ve had your fun, now fucking —” he arched slightly as you squeezed his aching cock, his breath catching in his throat. all you did was smirk and squeeze again, and he groaned quietly.

“the more you keep begging, the longer this’ll take. and if it goes on just a little bit longer, this bet is mine for the taking,” you said, and he threw his head back.

“you’re gonna regret this … when we’re done here, and i get my hands on you …”

“ah, ah, ah, be a good boy for me and take it, like a real man,” you purred, then laughed as he grabbed the nearest pillow and pressed it over his face, huffing and groaning into it as he bucked his hips.

he was in for a long night.

[loominggaia]

SLIME MONSTERS

(lore under cut)

Name: Slime [SLY-mm]

Class: Monster

Subclass: Terrian, Weightclass varies

PPL Category: 2 - Mostly harmless to peoples but invasive or detrimental to the environment.

Forger: ???

OVERVIEW

Slime monsters (also known as "slimes") are an ancient species of monster. Their place and time of origin, as well as the identity of their divine creator, remains unknown. There are several subspecies of slime monster, and some researchers theorize that they do not all share the same creator. While most slimes are not dangerous to people, all of them are considered harmful to the world's natural ecosystem.

HABITAT

Slimes cannot survive in hot, dry conditions for long. They prefer cool, damp environments such as caves, dark forests, and swamps. They are a common pest in basements and gardens worldwide. They often venture away from their lairs in search of food after dark, then return home at sunrise.

BIOLOGY

Different species of slimes have different properties, but all of them are covered in a thick layer of mucus which may be slimy, sticky, corrosive, malodorous, or neutral. They have no organs, only a permeable membrane of skin with gelatinous goo for innards. Though they have no brains or nervous systems at all, slimes are considered living creatures, as they react to stimuli and actively participate in their own survival. It seems that their intelligence is quite low, behaving purely on their mysterious, magical instincts. How they are able to sense their prey is still unknown, but researchers theorize that their mucus membrane can detect odors and sense vibrations in the air.

Because they have no bones, slime monsters are able to squeeze themselves through tiny spaces. They have quickly spread themselves across the globe by infiltrating ships and carriages, going undetected for long periods of time until they have multiplied out of control.

Slimes breed asexually by dividing themselves into two individuals. They can keep dividing until their offspring is the size of a pea. They gain more mass by eating, and lose half of their mass each time they divide. Exactly what prompts a slime to divide naturally is unknown, but they can also be forced to divide by cutting them into pieces.

Slimes will dry out and die if conditions are not moist enough. They can also be killed by freezing them solid, boiling them with flame, and exposure to large amounts of salt, which harms their mucus membrane and dries them out. (Note: red slimes are resistant to boiling)

Slime monsters cannot be killed by smashing, puncturing, or cutting them. They can survive heavy physical trauma, and gouging pieces from them only causes them to lose mass or divide into multiple slimes. They must be destroyed on a cellular level, which can be accomplished via magic spells or advanced weaponry.

There seems to be no limit to how big a slime can grow. However, they slowly lose mass over time, and the bigger they get, the more food they require to maintain their mass. They also lose half of their mass each time they reproduce. Because of this, a slime's growth is limited by its access to food, so they tend to top out to a certain size in the wild rather than growing endlessly.

The world's largest recorded slime was as big as an elephant, and in fact, had just absorbed an entire elephant when it was discovered.

SUBSPECIES

5 subspecies of slime monster have been documented by the World Athenaeum. They can be visually identified by color, but each has other unique properties as well.

GREEN

Green slimes are believed to be the oldest and most common subspecies. Their mucus is very slippery, making them nearly impossible to pick up. They are not dangerous to humans or animals, but they are a scourge to farms and forests, as they have a ravenous appetite for plants. Curiously, these slimes only eat plantlife which is green. They ignore flowers, bark, or any part of the plant which is a differnt color. They appear to suck the life right out of plants, leaving them gray and withered after feeding upon them. They are usually found in shady wooded areas.

Green slimes are sometimes kept as pets or even zoo attractions, as they are hardy, easy to find in the wild, and even easier to care for. While they are loathed by gardeners, some people have capitalized on green slimes by making products out of their slippery mucus, such as hair gels, soaps, and lubricants.

BLUE

Their mucus is very sticky. They use this stickiness to anchor themselves tightly to surfaces and catch prey. While they're most commonly found in caves, blue slimes may also dwell in shady riparian areas. They feed on liquids, but not just any liquid will do. Blue slimes require balanced electrolytes to survive, meaning their best source of food comes from living creatures. They feed on sweat, saliva, urine, bile, or any other electrolyte-rich liquid that seeps from other organisms.

Some natural streams contain enough minerals to sustain blue slimes, as the water cascades over mountains and vegetation, collecting nutrients as it goes. This is why blue slimes like to colonize damp caverns in particular. These slimes can feed off of rocks and algae alone, although they will grow very slowly or not at all on this diet. To grow bigger, they must hunt living creatures and harvest their nutrients.

Blue slimes are opportunistic ambush-hunters. They are known to anchor their "feet" to the cieling and drop their "heads" down upon living prey, which becomes stuck in their sticky mucus. Larger prey may have the strength to escape their clutches, but blue slimes seem to be able to judge the size of their prey before they strike, and they rarely attack prey they can't handle. Small slimes only hunt small game like insects and rodents, but larger specimens can become a danger to peoples too.

Once a blue slime has ensnared its prey, it begins passively absorbing their liquids. Their prey struggles hopelessly, and the harder they struggle, the more they sweat, nourishing the slime. As time passes, they may even begin to cry or wet themselves, and the slime grows even stronger. Eventually they perish, surrendering their blood and all other liquid nutrients.

Once every last water molecule is extracted, the blue slime leaves behind a pile of dry bones, dessicated flesh, and any clothes or objects their prey may have been carrying. These grisly piles are a good indicator that large blue slimes could be lurking nearby, so explorers should exercise caution.

However, some people actually go looking for these creatures, as their sticky and dessicant properties are useful many applications.

RED

Red slimes are considered the most dangerous subspecies, as they actively seek out and attack living creatures--including peoples. They feed exclusively off of living flesh. Their mucus is highly corrosive, causing damage to most materials including fabric, plastic, wood, and even metal. This mucus is especially harmful to skin. Brief contact with this slime may cause mild burns, but the longer material stays in contact with it, the more damage it takes. Red slime mucus can completely dissolve human flesh in just a matter of minutes. Harder materials take more time to dissolve, but given long enough, it seems to be able to dissolve just about anything.

Only a few rare materials, such as pyriad skin and hair, are completely resistant to the red slimes' effects. Curiously, red elves also boast some resistance to it. Red slimes repel water and do not respond to boiling. Salt and flash-freezing can still kill them just as effectively as other subspecies. They are prey to some fire-breathing dragon species, who don't seem to suffer any negative effects from eating them.

Red slimes are thankfully not as common as the others, as their diets are more complex, they are prey to certain animals, and their scary reputation makes peoples are more eager to eradicate them when they're found. These slimes cannot survive on plants or minerals, so they only haunt areas where people and animals dwell. Wherever there are large concentrations of critters, such as vermin, there may also be red slimes lurking about. Abandoned buildings, livestock farms, and sewers seem to be the red slimes' favorite places.

Unlike blue slimes, which only attack prey they can handle, red slimes are much less discriminating. They are notorious for attacking creatures much larger than themselves. They may even divide themselves to launch a ranged attack, "spitting" their other half at prey from a distance. This of course costs the slime some mass, but it may also slow their prey down enough to be worth it.

Not only are they dangerous to animals and peoples, but these slimes can cause considerable damage to property as well. As they slop around an area, their mucus slowly corrodes everything it touches, and this is bad news if they happen to be near walls or foundations. Though these creatures are loathed worldwide, some brave souls actually farm them and use their byproducts to make things like industrial solvents.

AMBER

Also known as "gold" or "brown" slimes, amber slimes are often smelled long before they are seen. Their oily mucus emits a foul odor, and the bigger the slime grows, the stronger this odor gets. It's no wonder they smell so bad, for this subspecies feeds entirely on decaying matter, and they are not picky about what it is. Rotting vegetables, old manure, and even decaying corpses make a delicious feast for these creatures.

Amber slimes won't consume anything that's still fresh. They only move in once matter is in the moderate stages of rot. Their mucus is only faintly corrosive and not strong enough to break down fresh matter, but it can finish digesting matter which is already breaking down. This mucus is not harmful to people or animals unless it is ingested, and it is not harmful to all species. The foul stench of these slimes is actually pleasant to trolls and ogres, and their stomachs happen to be strong enough to eat them too. In some trollish and ogrish cultures, amber slime jelly is considered a delicacy.

Peoples worldwide have used these slimes to cheaply dispose of unwanted waste. However, this has been outlawed in most regions because unlike worms and fungi, amber slimes do not produce beneficial byproducts. Worms and fungus nourish the soil with their waste as they break down matter naturally, but amber slimes just add mass to themselves while giving nothing back to nature. Because of this, they are considered harmful to the environment.

Trolls and ogres are the only creatures known to eat amber slimes, and while they may be tasty to these species, they don't actually offer much nutrition. Amber slimes are illegally farmed for culinary purposes, but for the most part they are considered loathsome pests. They tend to congregate near dumpsters, compost piles, battlefields, or anywhere flies and other vermin congregate. Large amber slime colonies are often found in sewers, where their stench might go unnoticed for a long time. But domestic infestations are rare, as home and business owners quickly catch onto the rancid odor suddenly coming from the walls, where these slimes may try feeding on rotting wood or dead vermin.

PALE

Pale slimes are the most recent subspecies to be discovered. It's rumored that they were secretly developed by a divine working with the World Athenaeum, in an experiment to control other slimes. However, Athenaeum officials have not confirmed or denied this. Pale slimes first appeared in the Midland Jungle region, but over the years their numbers have grown and sightings have spread all over the world. They are found wherever other slimes are, for they are exclusively cannibalistic, feeding only on other slimes.

This subspecies has a colorless, transluscent appearance. Their mucus is described as "neutral", not particularly sticky or slippery. It does not have corrosive properties and it is copletely odorless. Pale slimes seek out and absorb other subspecies of slimes. When they absorb a smaller slime, they temporarily take on its properties until they finish digesting it, which may take hours to days. If the pale slime tries to absorb a slime that is larger than itself, it may take on its properties permanently, essentially transforming into another subspecies.

The Peoples Protection League has tried using pale slimes to control other slime infestions with mixed results. In some cases it has proven effective, but in other cases it only made the infestation worse. This subspecies is still quite new to the scientific community and research is still ongoing, so their full potential and abilities are not yet known.

TRIVIA

-The world's largest known slime monster was a red slime, discovered deep in the Midland Jungle. It was digesting an entire elephant when researchers stumbled upon it. This was considered a highly unusual specimen, as the largest slimes overall tend to be green and amber. Blue and red subspecies are more likely to stay on the smaller side due to their complex feeding habits.

-Hunting wild amber slimes to make jelly is legal worldwide, but farming amber slimes is illegal in all Great Kingdoms.

*

Questions/Comments?

Lore Masterpost

[backyardentomologist]

A candy striped leafhopper, also known as the red-banded leafhopper, perches on a milkweed plant in the middle of the night. Like most leafhoppers, candy-striped leafhoppers feed mostly on plant sap, which can be harmful to crops and other cultivated plants. They are actually vectors of certain plant diseases, such as leaf scorch. Leaf scorch has been responsible for the decline of certain ornamental tree populations, such as oak and elm trees.

Despite the harm they can inflict on plants, leafhoppers like this one are important sources of food to predators like ladybugs and assassin bugs, who act as a sort of natural pest control, eating harmful insects that would have otherwise damaged crops or other plants.

These guys are on the larger end of leafhopper species; adults measure 6.7-8.4 mm in length, which is much, much larger than some other species—some are small enough to fit on the head of a pin!

There are three named subspecies of the candy-striped leafhopper, which is bizarre to me. Who was the first person to notice that? Hopefully, they’ll figure out how to combat leaf scorch disease—without the pesticide.

[aubrietarose]

There are estimated over 100,000 species of wasp, most of them nothing like the ones you're used to seeing. The smallest (which is also the smallest insect) is 0.139 mm in length.

Many hunt and parasitize other types of insects so specific that they can be used as non-chemical solutions for pest control on crops.

There are about 1000 species of fig tree. There is an individual wasp species that co-evolved with almost every single one and pollinates it.

Wasps are awesome.

DON'T BELIEVE MAINSTREAM MEDIA

WASPS ARE OUR FRIENDS

[mmpest0923]

Protect Your Property with Expert Anti-Termite Solutions Termites are silent destroyers that can compromise the structural integrity of your home or business without showing any immediate signs. At MM PEST CONTROL, we specialize in providing comprehensive anti-termite treatments to safeguard your property from these pests. Call us at 7563835462 or visit https://mmpestcontrol.in/ to schedule an inspection today!

[farmfuturist]

A Seasonal Crop Protection Calendar Featuring Bayer Acerbo Applications

Why Timing Matters in Crop Protection

Practical farming isn’t just about what you apply to your crops—it’s about when you use it. Diseases and pests don’t operate on guesswork; they follow the rhythm of the seasons, often waiting for just the right temperature, humidity, or growth stage to strike. That’s where a seasonal crop protection calendar becomes essential.

Across India’s diverse farming landscape, tools like Bayer Acerbo have become vital in defending crops from persistent fungal threats. But improper timing can render even the best fungicide ineffective, wasteful, or damaging. This guide outlines when and how to use crop protection tools, particularly Bayer Acerbo, to align with the agricultural calendar.

Bayer Acerbo's Role in Fungicide Strategies

Bayer Acerbo is a dual-mode systemic fungicide composed of Fluopyram and Trifloxystrobin. It targets fungal infections, including leaf spot, powdery mildew, and early blight. These are diseases that often arise suddenly, typically under warm, moist conditions, and can spread quickly if unchecked.

What makes Bayer Acerbo especially valuable is its translaminar activity and its preventive and curative properties. This means it not only shields the surface of the leaf but also moves into the leaf tissue to eliminate existing pathogens.

The most strategic use of Acerbo Bayer depends on two variables: crop growth stage and regional climatic patterns. Aligning its application with these factors gives farmers the best chance at disease suppression and high yield.

Spring: Disease Prevention Begins

Spring brings a surge in temperature and humidity across most farming zones. For crops like rice, chilies, and onions—where Acerbo is widely applied, this is when fungal spores first start appearing.

Initial sprays with Bayer Acerbo are often timed at the early vegetative stage, typically 20–25 days after sowing.

This timing helps suppress early-season pathogens before they have a chance to colonize the foliage.

In regions with early monsoon onset, such as the eastern plains or coastal belts, this spring window is critical. Ignoring disease prevention at this stage can lead to an explosion of infection once rains begin.

Summer: The Critical Window for Curative Action

By early summer, diseases have had time to take hold, especially if spring treatments were skipped or ineffective. This period, typically from April to early June, requires vigilant scouting and precise application.

Once symptoms such as leaf curling, necrotic patches, or mildew are visible, Bayer Acerbo is deployed for its curative action. Farmers should ensure:

Spray intervals of 10–12 days if disease pressure remains high.

Adequate spray coverage, especially on lower leaves where pathogens like Alternaria may hide.

This phase also overlaps with flowering and fruit-setting stages in many crops, making disease control even more critical to protect the yield potential.

Monsoon: High-Risk Season for Fungal Proliferation

"Rain never asks permission—it just arrives. And when it does, the fungus follows fast."

The monsoon season is a make-or-break moment. With average humidity levels soaring above 75% in many agricultural regions and average rainfall between 800–1,200 mm, fungal outbreaks become rampant. Crops are most vulnerable during this time.

Bayer Acerbo should be integrated into a broader fungicidal rotation plan during the monsoon season to prevent the buildup of resistance. Pairing it with contact fungicides or alternating with products containing different modes of action is essential.

Additionally, farmers should monitor:

Leaf wetness duration which directly correlates with infection risk.

Water drainage in fields, especially in rice cultivation, where standing water can intensify blast diseases.

Autumn: Consolidation and Residue Management

By late September and October, most crops approach maturity. Disease control remains essential, but so does managing pesticide residues to ensure food safety and meet market export standards.

Acerbo's recommended pre-harvest interval (PHI) should be observed strictly during this time. Many farmers use its final application 30–40 days before harvest, giving the chemical enough time to degrade to safe levels.

This phase is also a time for field hygiene:

Removing diseased crop debris to prevent carry-over pathogens.

Planning soil treatments or crop rotation to minimize next-season infection cycles.

Winter: Planning and Prepping

Winter is often considered the quiet season in farming, but it's ideal for post-mortem analysis and future planning. For crops like onions and late chillies, winter still sees ongoing activity, and disease pressure doesn’t vanish entirely.

Many agronomists recommend:

Reviewing disease incidence data from the past year.

Aligning seed treatment and soil care strategies with expected pathogen threats.

Choosing hybrids with known disease resistance if possible.

Using archived satellite and ground monitoring data (such as those provided by AgFunder Network Partners or CIMMYT's climate data), farmers can adapt Bayer Acerbo's role in their upcoming seasonal defense plan.

FAQs

Q: Can Bayer Acerbo be used year-round? A: It depends on the crop and season. Bayer Acerbo is most effective when disease pressure is moderate to high, particularly during spring, summer, and monsoon periods.

Q: What is the safe spray interval for Acerbo? A: Under typical disease pressure, applications every 10–12 days are considered effective. Always follow product label guidelines.

Q: Does Acerbo leave residue in fruits or vegetables? A: It can, which is why observing the pre-harvest interval (PHI) is critical. This ensures that chemical levels fall within safe consumption limits.

Q: Can Acerbo be tank-mixed with other pesticides? A: In most cases, yes. But compatibility tests should always be performed first, and mixing instructions must follow technical guidelines to avoid adverse reactions.

Turn the Calendar into a System

Instead of chasing symptoms and reacting late, think of your crop protection calendar as a living system. Time it right, rotate chemistries wisely, and document every step. That’s how yields improve, costs go down, and resistance is kept in check.

Every season offers an opportunity, not just a threat. With a bit of planning and the right tools like Bayer Acerbo, you move from managing crises to managing performance.

Let the calendar guide your hands, not your guesswork.

[mypestexterminetor]

Reliable Mice Control Services in Montreal: Protect Your Home and Health 

Mice control service in Montreal | Mice control service | Mice control 

Montreal's urban environment and harsh winters create a perfect habitat for mice such as mice to seek shelter in houses and commercial buildings. Once inside, they grow rapidly, imposing property damage and major health risks. If you're dealing with a mouse infestation, you need to act quickly. This is where My Pest Exterminator's Mice control services in Montreal may help. My Pest Exterminator, a known brand in local pest control, provides mouse infestation treatments that are understanding, efficient, and long-lasting. Whether you live in a single-family house, an apartment complex, or a business facility, our expert staff has the equipment, training, and ability to manage any mouse infection. 

Why Mice Are a Problem in Montreal

Montreal's old buildings, crowded neighborhoods, and cold winters offer the ideal environment for rat infestations. Mice are ingenious, and they can infiltrate structures via holes as small as 6 mm in diameter—roughly the size of a coin. Once inside, they go toward warm, secluded spaces like walls, attics, basements, and kitchens. These infestations can multiply fast, therefore, expert Mice control services in Montreal are critical for properly clearing the problem and avoiding future attack.

Health Risks Associated with Mice

Mice are not only difficult but also dangerous. Their droppings, urine, and saliva may include germs and viruses such as Hantavirus and Typhoid. As they move throughout your house, they can contaminate food supplies and kitchen surfaces. Their nesting materials, which are generally composed of crushed insulation or paper, can worsen allergies and asthma, particularly in young people. 

Structural Damage

Mice have sharp teeth and always need to chew to prevent them from growing too large. This causes damage in areas you may not detect right away, such as electrical wires, wood beams, insulation, and plumbing lines. Chewing wires can sometimes cause electrical fires, making a mouse infestation not just a nuisance but also a serious safety risk. 

Signs You May Have a Mouse Infestation

Catching a rodent problem early can save time, money, and stress. Look out for these common signs of a mouse infestation:

Droppings: Small, dark pellets usually found in drawers, under sinks, or near food storage.

Noises: Scratching, rustling, or squeaking sounds coming from walls or ceilings, particularly at night.

Gnaw Marks: Bite marks on food packaging, baseboards, furniture, or wiring.

Nesting Materials: Bits of shredded paper, cloth, or insulation in corners or hidden spaces.

Musty Odor: A strong, unpleasant smell from mouse urine in heavily infested areas.

The My Pest Exterminator Process

We understand that every infestation is different, which is why our mouse control strategy is tailored to your specific situation. Our process is detailed, humane, and focused on long-term prevention.

Step 1: Inspection

Our technicians begin with a comprehensive inspection of your property. We assess the extent of the infestation, identify nesting sites, locate entry points, and evaluate potential food and water sources that are attracting mice to your home or business.

Step 2: Customized Treatment Plan

Based on our inspection, we create a custom plan that addresses both the current problem and future prevention. This may include:

Mechanical traps in high-activity zones

Rodent-proofing and exclusion work to seal entry points

Sanitation recommendations to reduce attractants

Monitoring systems to track activity after treatment

Step 3: Humane and Safe Removal

Our methods are eco-conscious and safe for children and pets. We avoid excessive use of toxic chemicals and instead rely on proven, humane approaches that effectively remove mice without compromising your safety.

Step 4: Prevention and Follow-Up

Our job isn’t done when the mice are gone. We conduct follow-up visits to ensure the issue is fully resolved. We also advise you on how to maintain a rodent-free environment, including sealing vulnerable areas and improving sanitation practices.

Why Choose My Pest Exterminator?

When it comes to mice control services in Montreal, not all pest control companies are created equal. Here’s why homeowners and businesses trust My Pest Exterminator:

Local Expertise

We live and work in Montreal, so we understand the common rodent challenges in different boroughs and building types. From the Plateau to the West Island, our team knows where mice tend to hide and how they get in.

Fully Licensed and Certified Technicians

Our team is professionally trained and certified in rodent control. We stay up to date on the latest pest control technologies and safety standards to provide the best possible service.

Environmentally Responsible

We use Health Canada-approved products and low-toxicity solutions. Our methods prioritize the health of your household and the environment, while still delivering effective results.

Transparent Pricing and Guaranteed Results

We provide upfront estimates with no hidden fees. Our goal is complete customer satisfaction, and we stand behind our work with service guarantees to give you peace of mind.

How to Prevent Mice from Returning

While professional extermination is the best way to eliminate an infestation, ongoing prevention is the key to staying mouse-free. Here are some expert tips to help keep rodents away:

Seal All Entry Points: Use steel wool or caulking to block holes around pipes, doors, and windows.

Keep Food Sealed: Store all food, including pet food, in airtight containers.

Remove Clutter: Avoid piles of paper, fabric, or cardboard that mice could use for nesting.

Fix Leaks and Moisture Issues: Mice need water to survive, so eliminate sources of excess moisture.

Maintain a Clean Environment: Regular cleaning—especially in kitchens and basements—can discourage mice from sticking around.

Need help rodent-proofing your property? Our team offers preventative maintenance services to ensure your home stays protected year-round.

Book Your Mice Control Service in Montreal Today

When you suspect a mouse infestation, don't wait for the harm to get worse. My Pest Exterminator is your reliable local specialist for professional Mice control services in Montreal. We guarantee your home or company becomes and remains mouse-free thanks to our extensive knowledge of the city's particular rodent difficulties, personalized treatment strategies, and dedication to safe, humane procedures. When it comes to mouse management in Montreal, My Pest Exterminator will provide you with rapid, effective, and inexpensive results, giving you long-term peace of knowledge. Contact us  

[mmpest098]

Top-Rated Pest Control in Gujarat, Delhi, Maharashtra, & Beyond!

Looking for reliable pest control services in India? MM Pest Control offers safe, eco-friendly, and effective pest management solutions for homes and businesses. We specialize in termite control, rodent control, mosquito treatment, bed bug removal, cockroach control, and more!

📞 Call us now at +91-7563835462 for a FREE consultation or visit www.mmpestcontrol.in to book your service today!

[airsoftstationsposts]

Can You Use BB Guns for Small Game Hunting? Pros and Cons

Let’s set the scene. You’re in your backyard, holding a BB gun, channeling your inner outdoorsman, eyes squinting toward a squirrel munching happily on your bird feeder like it owns the place. And you think can I actually hunt small game with this thing?

Ah, the eternal question: can a BB gun be more than just a fun plinker for soda cans and paper targets? Can it be a reliable tool for small game hunting? The short answer is... kind of. The long answer? Grab a cup of coffee and let’s get into the pros and cons of using BB guns for small game hunting.

Understanding the BB Gun and Its Purpose

Before we dive into hunting tactics, let’s understand what a BB gun really is. A BB gun is a type of air gun that shoots small, round metal pellets commonly referred to as BBs. They're typically 4.5 mm in diameter and made of steel. Unlike their close cousin, the pellet gun, BB guns aren’t known for their pinpoint accuracy or knockout power.

BB guns operate using either a spring-piston mechanism, CO2 cartridges, or pneumatic pumps. Their velocity can range from a modest 250 feet per second to about 650 feet per second in high-end models.

Now, when it comes to airsoft guns, which are often confused with BB guns, let’s clarify that airsoft guns are designed for recreational purposes like competitive shooting or tactical training and shoot plastic pellets. These are not suitable for hunting. BB guns, on the other hand, shoot metal projectiles and can be used for limited hunting applications, though with several caveats.

The Pros of Using a BB Gun for Small Game Hunting

Let’s start with the upsides: yes, they exist. Here are some reasons why people consider using a BB gun for hunting small game like squirrels, rats, or birds.

1. Low Noise Factor

A BB gun doesn’t create the loud bang you’d associate with a traditional firearm. This makes it an excellent choice for stealth operations in the backyard. You won’t scare away the entire animal kingdom or irritate your neighbors. That is, unless your neighbor is also a squirrel enthusiast.

2. Easy Handling and Lightweight

BB guns are incredibly easy to handle. They’re lightweight, user-friendly, and don’t come with a lengthy user manual written in sixteen languages. For beginners or younger users learning about safety and marksmanship, BB guns offer an accessible entry point.

3. Low Cost and Readily Available Ammo

BBs are as cheap as it gets in the ammunition world. You can pick up a tub of 6000 BBs for less than the price of a steak dinner. This makes practicing a breeze and hunting cost-effective, no tears shed every time you miss.

4. Legal Simplicity

In many regions, owning a BB gun doesn’t require a license. This means more accessibility for responsible hobbyists looking to get started with basic target shooting or pest control.

The Cons of Using a BB Gun for Small Game Hunting

Now that we’ve danced through the tulips, it’s time to step on a few thorns. There are real drawbacks to using a BB gun for hunting. And no, we’re not being dramatic; these are important.

1. Limited Power Equals Limited Effectiveness

Most BB guns simply don’t pack enough punch. Small game animals like squirrels are tougher than they look. A BB that hits with 350 feet per second may hurt but won’t necessarily result in a quick, humane kill.

2. Poor Accuracy at Distance

Unlike pellet guns with rifled barrels, most BB guns have smooth bore barrels. Translation: those little BBs fly like they’ve had a few too many energy drinks wobbly, unpredictable, and hard to control. Good luck trying to hit a tiny rodent at 20 yards consistently.

3. Ethical Concerns

One of the most important considerations is ethics. Wounding an animal without killing it cleanly is inhumane. You run the risk of causing suffering and failing to retrieve the animal. Most hunters agree if your gear can’t provide a clean kill, it shouldn’t be used for hunting.

4. Legal Restrictions Still Apply

While BB guns are less regulated, local laws still vary. Some jurisdictions prohibit hunting any wildlife with air-powered firearms. Others have minimum power requirements. It’s always best to check local game laws before channeling your inner Elmer Fudd.

So, Can You Hunt with a BB Gun?

The honest answer? It depends. If your target is truly “small game” we’re talking mice, rats, or maybe invasive birds like starlings then yes, a high-powered BB gun might do the trick. However, if you’re aiming at squirrels, rabbits, or similar critters, you might be better off with a more powerful air rifle.

Use Case Example

Let’s say you’ve got a 650 FPS BB gun and a squirrel problem. Can you take one down? Possibly. But you’ll need to be within 10 yards, aim for the head or heart-lung area, and ensure perfect shot placement. Even then, success isn’t guaranteed.

Safety First, Always

Regardless of what you're hunting or how powerful your BB gun is, safety should be priority number one. Here are a few quick reminders:

Always treat a BB gun like a real firearm.

Wear eye protection. Yes, even for BBs.

Know what’s beyond your target.

Never shoot at pets or protected wildlife.

And of course, no backyard Rambo impressions.

BB Guns vs Pellet Guns: The Better Choice?

While the BB gun has a certain nostalgic charm, pellet guns are generally more powerful and accurate. Many serious small game hunters turn to .177 or .22 caliber pellet guns for this reason. These air guns offer rifled barrels and higher muzzle energy, making them better suited for clean kills.

If you’re serious about small game hunting with air-powered firearms, investing in a high-quality pellet gun is a far more ethical and effective route.

“Hunting is not about the pursuit of game, but the pursuit of self-discipline, patience, and respect for life.” – Unknown Hunter

Airsoft Guns and Hunting: The Clear Misunderstanding

Let’s squash a myth while we’re at it. Airsoft guns are not designed for hunting. They shoot plastic BBs, usually at lower velocities (between 200 and 400 FPS), and are meant for recreational use in sports and training.

Trying to hunt anything with an airsoft gun is not just ineffective—it’s potentially illegal and definitely unethical. So if you’ve been confusing airsoft guns with BB guns, now you know the difference.

Choosing the Right BB Gun for the Job

If you’re still thinking of using a BB gun for small pest control or micro-hunting, here are features to look for:

High velocity (preferably over 600 FPS)

Pump or CO2 powered rather than spring

Metal barrel for durability

Tactical sights or scopes to improve accuracy

Multi-shot capability in case you miss the first time

You also want to practice a lot before taking the shot on a live animal. Know your limits and aim responsibly.

Pros and Cons Recap

Let’s do a quick pros and cons rundown to make your decision-making even easier.

Pros

Low noise and stealthy

Lightweight and beginner-friendly

Cheap ammo and accessible

Less legal hassle in many areas

Cons

Low power and poor penetration

Not accurate at long range

High risk of unethical wounds

Not suitable for medium game

When a BB Gun Makes Sense

Here’s a quick list of scenarios where a BB gun can be a helpful tool:

Indoor pest control (rats in the barn, mice in the garage)

Practicing hunting accuracy and technique

Teaching safe gun handling to beginners

Low-impact backyard fun (with appropriate targets)

In other words, if your aim is more education or light control of invasive critters, a BB gun might do the job.

BB Gun Hunting Etiquette

Believe it or not, there is such a thing as hunting etiquette, even with a BB gun. It’s not about dressing in camouflage and whispering in hushed tones—it’s about respect.

Respect the animal. Take only shots you’re sure of.

Respect your neighbors. Don’t turn your backyard into a wildlife warzone.

Respect the law. Know your local regulations.

Respect your gear. Maintain your BB gun regularly to ensure performance.

Conclusion

To answer the big question: Can you use a BB gun for small game hunting? Technically, yes. But it comes with a bucket-load of caveats. For very small pests and under close, controlled conditions, a high-powered BB gun can be effective. But if you’re aiming to hunt more than that, or you care about humane kills (and you should), a more powerful air gun or traditional method is a better bet.

BB guns are best viewed as training tools and plinking fun-makers. They can introduce someone to responsible shooting, safety, and marksmanship without the risk and cost of firearms.

If you're serious about air-powered hunting, take time to research, invest in proper gear, and never substitute power for fun at the cost of ethics.

Looking for BB guns, airsoft guns, and gear that actually meets the mark? Head over to Airsoft Station, where performance meets precision. Whether you’re upgrading your first plinker or looking for pro-level gear, Airsoft Station has you covered with a wide range of options for hobbyists, beginners, and backyard hunters.

Stay safe, aim true, and remember just because it looks like a toy doesn’t mean you should treat it like one

FAQ’S:

1. Can a BB gun really kill a small animal like a squirrel?

Technically, yes under very specific conditions. A high-powered BB gun (around 600 FPS or more), a short shooting distance, and perfect shot placement to a vital area are all required. But let’s be honest, squirrels are surprisingly tough for something that spends its day eating acorns and running from dogs. It’s not the most reliable or ethical method unless everything aligns perfectly.

2. What’s the difference between a BB gun and an airsoft gun when it comes to hunting?

Great question and a common confusion. A BB gun shoots small metal projectiles and can potentially harm small pests. An airsoft gun, on the other hand, fires plastic pellets designed for safe recreational use. Trying to hunt with an airsoft gun is like throwing marshmallows at a raccoon. It's not going to end well (for you, not the raccoon).

3. Is it legal to hunt with a BB gun in my state?

That depends entirely on your location. Some places allow limited pest control with BB guns, while others require specific licenses or minimum power levels. Before you go full survivalist in your backyard, check your local hunting and firearm regulations. It’ll save you trouble and possibly a lecture from local wildlife officers.

4. What kind of small game can I hunt ethically with a BB gun?

Very small pests think rats, mice, and invasive birds like starlings can potentially be taken down with a powerful BB gun and careful aim. But anything larger, like rabbits or squirrels, may require a more powerful air gun (such as a pellet gun) to ensure a humane and clean kill. Ethics matter more than ego here.

5. Where can I find reliable BB guns and gear for beginners?

If you're ready to gear up responsibly, check out Airsoft Station. They offer a range of high-quality BB guns and airsoft guns for every skill level, from curious first-timers to seasoned backyard snipers. Their selection balances performance, safety, and affordability—just what you need when diving into the world of air-powered hunting.

[bestanimal]

Round 2 - Arthropoda - Branchiopoda

(Sources - 1, 2, 3, 4)

Branchiopoda is a class of small, mainly freshwater crustaceans that feed on plankton and detritus. They are comprised of 9 orders: Anostraca (“Fairy Shrimp”), Anomopoda (“Water Fleas”), Ctenopoda (also “Water Fleas”), Cyclestherida (“Clam Shrimp”), Laevicaudata (also “Clam Shrimp”), Spinicaudata (also “Clam Shrimp”), Haplopoda (“Predatory Water Fleas”), Onychopoda (“Water Fleas” again), and Notostraca (“Tadpole/Shield Shrimp”).

Branchiopods are found mainly in freshwater, including temporary pools and hypersaline lakes, and some in brackish water. Those that live in temporary pools are known for having eggs that can dry out for long periods of time and hatch once they are submerged in water, as an adaptation to drought. Only two families, one in Onychopoda and one in Ctenopoda, contain marine species. Most eat detritus or plankton, catching them in the setae on their appendages. Notostracans are opportunistic omnivores that will feed on algae, bacteria, other branchiopods like Anostracans, and even small fish.

Branchiopods are characterized by the presence of gills on many of the animals’ appendages, including the mouthparts. Most have compound eyes and a carapace. In the Clam Shrimp, the carapace prevents the use of the legs for swimming, so the antennae are used for locomotion instead, as they are in nauplius larvae.

The oldest known branchiopod was Rehbachiella kinnekullensis of the Upper Cambrian. Notostracans in particular have a good fossil record, with the oldest known species being Strudops goldenbergi from the Late Devonian. Notostracans are often described as “Living Fossils” due to their lack of major morphological change over 250 million years.

Propaganda under the cut:

Both Triops (a genus of Notostracan) and Artemia (a genus of Anostracan) make popular low maintenance aquarium pets, respectively called “Dinosaur Shrimp” and “Sea-monkeys” in the pet trade.

Triops longicaudatus helps control the West Nile virus, as they prey on Culex mosquito larvae.

In Japan, Triops cancriformis are used as biological pest control, kept in rice paddies to eat weeds.

Most branchiopods feed on small plankton and detritus, but some are large(r) predators, and Notostracans aren’t the only ones! The Giant Fairy Shrimp (Branchinecta gigas) can get up to 86 mm (3.4 in) long, lives in hypersaline lakes and rivers, and eats copepods and other branchiopods: mainly other fairy shrimp.

The genus Artemia, also known as Brine Shrimp, are commonly bred to feed fish and crustacean larvae, both in fish farms and in aquarium tanks, due to their ease of rearing, richness in nutrients, and tendency to be the preferred snack of small fish. Daphnia, a genus of Anomopod, are also often bred as fish food, as well as for amphibian larvae.

Artemia urmiana was once abundant in Lake Urmia of Iran, but drought has caused their population to drastically decline, leading to fears that they were nearly extinct. However, a second population has been discovered in Koyashskoye Salt Lake of Ukraine, giving hope for their recovery.

Scientists have taken the eggs of Artemia salina to outer space to test the impact of radiation on life. The brine shrimp eggs traveled on U.S. Biosatellite 2, Apollo 16, and Apollo 17 missions, and on the Russian Bion-3 (Cosmos 782), Bion-5 (Cosmos 1129), Foton 10, and Foton 11 flights. On Apollo 16 and Apollo 17, the cysts traveled to the Moon and back. Unfortunately, the results showed A. salina eggs are highly sensitive to cosmic radiation… 90% of the embryos died at different developmental stages.

Clam shrimp convergently evolved a shell similar to a bivalve. Both valves of the shell are held together by a strong closing muscle. The animals react to danger by contracting the muscle so that the valves close tightly and the crustacean floats motionlessly to the bottom of the water.

Daphnia are used in scientific studies as a model organism. Because they are nearly transparent, their internal organs are easy to study in live specimens. They are often used to test the effects of toxins and climate change, assisting with the assessment of ecological impacts caused by human disturbance.

One time, while looking at pond water under microscope, I saw a Chydorus sphaericus and squealed out loud cause it was so cute, and my professor made fun of me. But look at this. The Cheat lookin ass:

[tameblog]

As spring shifts into summer, an increase in insect and mite activity often follows. For heat-loving pests like spider mites, broad mites, scales, and whiteflies, regular scouting and early identification will be crucial for successfully managing infestations. Below, you’ll find tips and strategies to reduce summer pest populations and keep your garden looking its best going into fall. Remember that pesticides kill insects and mites—they don’t heal plants. Prune and remove any damaged or dead branches, and consider culling heavily infested specimens. Keep a close watch the following year, recognizing that preventative applications of pesticides are the best strategy to protect plants from damage. By integrating these management techniques, gardeners can also maintain ecological balance. Always bear in mind that healthy plants are the first defense against pests. Proper watering, fertilization, and pruning will help keep your garden thriving.  Whiteflies: Flighty Virus Vectors Whiteflies are small (1.6–2.5 mm), sap-sucking “true bugs” that damage ornamental plants by feeding, which causes yellowing and death of leaves. They excrete honeydew, resulting in sooty mold that mars leaf surfaces and interferes with photosynthesis. Whiteflies are also significant vectors of plant viruses. Three common species of whitefly include greenhouse whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum), sweet potato whitefly (Bemisia tabaci), and banded-winged whitefly (Trialeurodes abutiloneus). Adult whiteflies are mobile and will take flight if disturbed. They have very short life cycles, developing from eggs to adults in a matter of weeks, and multiple overlapping generations will be present in a large population. Whiteflies feed on hundreds of different plants. The most likely species you’ll encounter in the garden are sweet potato whitefly (left), greenhouse whitefly (center), and banded-winged whitefly (right).  Sweet potato whitefly Greenhouse whitefly Banded-winged whitefly Whitefly Management Tips Start clean. Both greenhouse and sweet potato whitefly are often introduced when new plants are added to the landscape. Inspect new specimens before planting, and consider treating with horticultural oil or neem oil to eliminate hitchhikers. Monitor regularly. Pay particularly close attention to the undersides of leaves as you look for eggs, nymphs, and adults. Insecticides should only be used as a last resort. Managing whiteflies with insecticides is challenging because a number of species have developed resistance to the active ingredient in many products. However, horticultural oil and neem oil are reliably effective for knocking down whitefly populations. Numerous insecticides harm beneficial species, worsening outbreaks, so preserving natural predators like ladybugs, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs is a better strategy than widespread insecticide use. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) PRACTICES Make these earth-friendly habits part of your garden routine: Preserve beneficial insects: Natural enemies like predatory mites, beetles, and parasitoids are vital in controlling pests. Apply the least toxic materials possible: Choose insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, or sulfur judiciously to reduce harm to nontarget organisms. Monitor regularly: Early detection minimizes the need for chemical interventions. Learn more: All About Integrated Pest Management Releasing Beneficial Insects for the Garden How to Use Bt Safely Mites: Tiny Arachnid Attackers Mites are among the smallest arachnids, ranging in size from 1/100 to 3/100 of an inch. Like spiders, most adult mites have four pairs of legs, though larvae often have only three pairs. In addition to their small size, they have a preference for hiding on the undersides of leaves, within buds, and in bark crevices, which makes detection and diagnosis challenging, even with a hand lens. Spider mites, particularly the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae), are notorious for damaging over 180 ornamental plant species. Using needle-sharp, whiplike mouthparts, they pierce leaves to suck sap, causing stippling, yellow spots, and bronzing. Severe infestations lead to leaf drop, and you may notice visible webbing, which protects mites and their eggs from predators. These warm-season mites thrive in the heat of summer, especially during dry spells and droughts. Webbing and foliar damage are telltale signs of mites. Symptoms generally won’t be noticeable until the infestation is well underway, at which point the mites have likely spread to other hosts. Carefully scouting and treating nearby plants should be part of your management strategy.  Spider mite damage Broad mite damage Spider Mite Management Tips Start with water sprays. Hose down plants every 3 days to remove mites, webbing, dust, and debris. It may take two to three soaks to get the mite populations under control. Treat severe infestations with oils or soaps. If spider mite populations haven’t declined by day 12, treat plants with horticultural oil (2% or summer rate), neem oil, insecticidal soap, or sulfur to reduce mite numbers. To minimize plant injury, avoid application when temperatures are high (above 80°F) or when relative humidity is over 90%. Do not use oils on sensitive plants like azalea (Rhododendron cvs., Zones 3–9), hydrangea (Hydrangea spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), or Japanese holly (Ilex crenata and cvs., Zones 5–9). When in doubt, test the product on a small section and wait 3 to 5 days before treating the entire plant. Preserve natural enemies. Predatory mites and beneficial insects like spider mite destroyer beetle (Stethorus spp.), mirid (Dicyphus hesperus), and minute pirate bug (Orius spp.) can be valuable allies in mite management. Many common ornamental plant species are useful as “banker plants” that attract and support natural enemies. These include borage (Borago officinalis, Zones 2–11), mullein (Verbascum spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum cvs., Zones 9–11), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea and cvs., Zones 3–9), and sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima, annual). Include one to two banker plants per 2,000 to 5,000 square feet to serve as a source of food and protection for natural enemies. Keep in mind that some predatory insects like mirids are omnivorous, and may supplement their diet of mites and insects with plant sap and pollen from garden plants. Broad mites (Polyphagotarsonemus latus) are even smaller than spider mites, with females measuring just 1/100 of an inch; males are half that size. It’s hard to see them, even with a hand lens, despite the chubby bodies that give them their common name. Unlike spider mites, broad mites tend to thrive under high humidity conditions. Broad mite damage includes stunted growth, deformed leaves and flower buds, bronzing of foliage, and thickened, rugose leaves. Further complicating diagnosis, these symptoms are often mistaken for evidence of herbicide injury, a deficiency of nutrients like zinc or boron, or virus infections. Worst of all, by the time symptoms appear, the mites have often moved on to other hosts. To find broad mites, examine asymptomatic adjacent plants in addition to symptomatic ones. BROAD MITE Management Tips Apply horticultural oil, neem oil, or insecticidal soap.These are effective against active stages but harmful to some natural predators. Monitor plants regularly to detect early infestations. Also, avoid overuse of chemicals that disrupt natural enemies. Scale Insects: Stealthy, Armored Sap Suckers Scale insects, part of the true bug order Hemiptera, feed on leaves and/or branches of ornamental plants, causing discoloration, defoliation, and, in severe infestations, plant death. They fall into two main categories. Armored scales (Diaspididae) cause yellow leaf spots, leaf drop, and branch dieback. These scales often infest interior leaves, needles, and bark, where they’re shielded from predators. Protected by a detachable waxy coating, armored scales do not produce honeydew. Common armored scale species include pine needle scale, euonymous scale, gloomy scale, and Japanese maple scale. Soft scales (Coccidae) are enclosed in a waxy coating that is attached to the body, and excrete sticky honeydew. Some common soft scale include oystershell, soft brown scale, magnolia scale, and cottony cushion scale. Both armored scale and soft scale insects live their adult lives beneath a thick coating composed of waxes and their shed exoskeletons. This coating protects the insect from parasitoids, predators, and pesticides. All scale insects go through a crawler stage, the most mobile and vulnerable phase of their life cycle. After hatching, crawlers emerge as tiny, active nymphs that move across plant surfaces to find feeding sites. This is the best time to target scale with insecticides or other control measures. Once they settle and begin feeding, they will develop protective waxy coverings. To combat scale, apply pesticides when newly hatched nymphs are on the move. In hot summer climates, species like false oleander scale (left) will produce at least three overlapping generations of crawlers per year. Sooty mold growing on the honeydew excreted by soft scale (right) may be the first noticeable sign of an infestation.  False oleander scale Sooty mold Scale Management Tips Target crawlers. Apply horticultural oil after nymphs hatch and before they form their wax armor. If overlapping generations emerge during the season, repeated treatments will be necessary. Where permissible, carefully apply a systemic pesticide. Neonicotinoids are controversial but, when used appropriately, are less damaging than many other pesticides (including some organic ones). Find a product containing imidacloprid that is designed for use by homeowners, like BioAdvanced Tree & Shrub Concentrate or Bonide Annual Tree & Shrub Insect Control with Systemaxx. As always, read and follow the label meticulously to protect people, pets, and pollinators. Contact a professional applicator. In areas of the country where neonicotinoids are banned, a professional pesticide applicator has access to other products that are free of neonicotinoids and can successfully manage scale. Use scrape tests to monitor progress. Confirm that your control method is working by scraping the scales’ shells; dead scales will flake off easily.   Janna Beckerman, PhD, is a professor emerita at Purdue University and the ornamentals technical manager for Envu Environmental Science. Fine Gardening Recommended Products Corona High Performance Orchard Loppers Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Unique design greatly reduces the cutting force. Modest tool weight is maintained due to the high strength elliptical aluminum handles. Cutting blade is fully heat treated forged steel and is easy to sharpen. Hooked design features a deep sap groove which keeps the blade contact area clear. Large diameter bumpers help to reduce elbow fatigue. Fiskars Garden Tool Caddy with Removable Small Tool Storage for Indoor and Outdoor Gardening Use, Made with Recycled Plastic Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Fiskars Gardening Tool Caddy stores tools and supplies for easy access and transportation from indoors to out. Body is made of durable, lightweight, resin with 20% post-consumer recycled plastic. Spacious toolbox includes a removable bin with holes for wall mounting and is the perfect organizer for snips, pruners, and more. Handle locks in place for one-handed carrying, or use side handles for two-handed carrying. Lifetime Warranty. Worx WG323 20V Power Share 10" Cordless Pole/Chain Saw with Auto-Tension (Battery & Charger Included) Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. [12’ EXTRA REACH] It takes just a few minutes and no tools to attach the pole. And with a reach of up to 12’ and only 10 lbs., you’ll be able to get to branches and limbs before they become a problem. Please refuel before use, but oil is sold separately. [FAST, CLEAN CUTS] This cordless 20V PowerShare chain saw is as fast and powerful as anything in its class. And with no gas, and no cord, there’s much less muss and fuss. [SAME BATTERY, EXPANDABLE POWER] The same battery powers over 75plus 20V, 40V, and 80V lifestyle, garden, and power tools in the Power Share family. [AUTO-CHAIN TENSION] The automatic, tool-free chain tension system ensures you’ll always have the correct tension for the job at hand. [AUTO-CHAIN LUBRICATION] The automatic chain lubrication system not only makes for smoother, more efficient cuts, but it extends the life of the tool. And the oil level indicator lets you know exactly where you stand. [COMPACT, LIGHTWEIGHT] The saw itself weighs only 10 lbs. You’ll work longer, with less strain on your hands, arms, back, and legs. [PLENTY OF JUICE] These are the same batteries we use on our Jawsaw and in our lawnmowers. They’re powerful enough for those, and powerful enough for a chainsaw. Source link

[ramestoryworld]

As spring shifts into summer, an increase in insect and mite activity often follows. For heat-loving pests like spider mites, broad mites, scales, and whiteflies, regular scouting and early identification will be crucial for successfully managing infestations. Below, you’ll find tips and strategies to reduce summer pest populations and keep your garden looking its best going into fall. Remember that pesticides kill insects and mites—they don’t heal plants. Prune and remove any damaged or dead branches, and consider culling heavily infested specimens. Keep a close watch the following year, recognizing that preventative applications of pesticides are the best strategy to protect plants from damage. By integrating these management techniques, gardeners can also maintain ecological balance. Always bear in mind that healthy plants are the first defense against pests. Proper watering, fertilization, and pruning will help keep your garden thriving.  Whiteflies: Flighty Virus Vectors Whiteflies are small (1.6–2.5 mm), sap-sucking “true bugs” that damage ornamental plants by feeding, which causes yellowing and death of leaves. They excrete honeydew, resulting in sooty mold that mars leaf surfaces and interferes with photosynthesis. Whiteflies are also significant vectors of plant viruses. Three common species of whitefly include greenhouse whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum), sweet potato whitefly (Bemisia tabaci), and banded-winged whitefly (Trialeurodes abutiloneus). Adult whiteflies are mobile and will take flight if disturbed. They have very short life cycles, developing from eggs to adults in a matter of weeks, and multiple overlapping generations will be present in a large population. Whiteflies feed on hundreds of different plants. The most likely species you’ll encounter in the garden are sweet potato whitefly (left), greenhouse whitefly (center), and banded-winged whitefly (right).  Sweet potato whitefly Greenhouse whitefly Banded-winged whitefly Whitefly Management Tips Start clean. Both greenhouse and sweet potato whitefly are often introduced when new plants are added to the landscape. Inspect new specimens before planting, and consider treating with horticultural oil or neem oil to eliminate hitchhikers. Monitor regularly. Pay particularly close attention to the undersides of leaves as you look for eggs, nymphs, and adults. Insecticides should only be used as a last resort. Managing whiteflies with insecticides is challenging because a number of species have developed resistance to the active ingredient in many products. However, horticultural oil and neem oil are reliably effective for knocking down whitefly populations. Numerous insecticides harm beneficial species, worsening outbreaks, so preserving natural predators like ladybugs, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs is a better strategy than widespread insecticide use. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) PRACTICES Make these earth-friendly habits part of your garden routine: Preserve beneficial insects: Natural enemies like predatory mites, beetles, and parasitoids are vital in controlling pests. Apply the least toxic materials possible: Choose insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, or sulfur judiciously to reduce harm to nontarget organisms. Monitor regularly: Early detection minimizes the need for chemical interventions. Learn more: All About Integrated Pest Management Releasing Beneficial Insects for the Garden How to Use Bt Safely Mites: Tiny Arachnid Attackers Mites are among the smallest arachnids, ranging in size from 1/100 to 3/100 of an inch. Like spiders, most adult mites have four pairs of legs, though larvae often have only three pairs. In addition to their small size, they have a preference for hiding on the undersides of leaves, within buds, and in bark crevices, which makes detection and diagnosis challenging, even with a hand lens. Spider mites, particularly the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae), are notorious for damaging over 180 ornamental plant species. Using needle-sharp, whiplike mouthparts, they pierce leaves to suck sap, causing stippling, yellow spots, and bronzing. Severe infestations lead to leaf drop, and you may notice visible webbing, which protects mites and their eggs from predators. These warm-season mites thrive in the heat of summer, especially during dry spells and droughts. Webbing and foliar damage are telltale signs of mites. Symptoms generally won’t be noticeable until the infestation is well underway, at which point the mites have likely spread to other hosts. Carefully scouting and treating nearby plants should be part of your management strategy.  Spider mite damage Broad mite damage Spider Mite Management Tips Start with water sprays. Hose down plants every 3 days to remove mites, webbing, dust, and debris. It may take two to three soaks to get the mite populations under control. Treat severe infestations with oils or soaps. If spider mite populations haven’t declined by day 12, treat plants with horticultural oil (2% or summer rate), neem oil, insecticidal soap, or sulfur to reduce mite numbers. To minimize plant injury, avoid application when temperatures are high (above 80°F) or when relative humidity is over 90%. Do not use oils on sensitive plants like azalea (Rhododendron cvs., Zones 3–9), hydrangea (Hydrangea spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), or Japanese holly (Ilex crenata and cvs., Zones 5–9). When in doubt, test the product on a small section and wait 3 to 5 days before treating the entire plant. Preserve natural enemies. Predatory mites and beneficial insects like spider mite destroyer beetle (Stethorus spp.), mirid (Dicyphus hesperus), and minute pirate bug (Orius spp.) can be valuable allies in mite management. Many common ornamental plant species are useful as “banker plants” that attract and support natural enemies. These include borage (Borago officinalis, Zones 2–11), mullein (Verbascum spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum cvs., Zones 9–11), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea and cvs., Zones 3–9), and sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima, annual). Include one to two banker plants per 2,000 to 5,000 square feet to serve as a source of food and protection for natural enemies. Keep in mind that some predatory insects like mirids are omnivorous, and may supplement their diet of mites and insects with plant sap and pollen from garden plants. Broad mites (Polyphagotarsonemus latus) are even smaller than spider mites, with females measuring just 1/100 of an inch; males are half that size. It’s hard to see them, even with a hand lens, despite the chubby bodies that give them their common name. Unlike spider mites, broad mites tend to thrive under high humidity conditions. Broad mite damage includes stunted growth, deformed leaves and flower buds, bronzing of foliage, and thickened, rugose leaves. Further complicating diagnosis, these symptoms are often mistaken for evidence of herbicide injury, a deficiency of nutrients like zinc or boron, or virus infections. Worst of all, by the time symptoms appear, the mites have often moved on to other hosts. To find broad mites, examine asymptomatic adjacent plants in addition to symptomatic ones. BROAD MITE Management Tips Apply horticultural oil, neem oil, or insecticidal soap.These are effective against active stages but harmful to some natural predators. Monitor plants regularly to detect early infestations. Also, avoid overuse of chemicals that disrupt natural enemies. Scale Insects: Stealthy, Armored Sap Suckers Scale insects, part of the true bug order Hemiptera, feed on leaves and/or branches of ornamental plants, causing discoloration, defoliation, and, in severe infestations, plant death. They fall into two main categories. Armored scales (Diaspididae) cause yellow leaf spots, leaf drop, and branch dieback. These scales often infest interior leaves, needles, and bark, where they’re shielded from predators. Protected by a detachable waxy coating, armored scales do not produce honeydew. Common armored scale species include pine needle scale, euonymous scale, gloomy scale, and Japanese maple scale. Soft scales (Coccidae) are enclosed in a waxy coating that is attached to the body, and excrete sticky honeydew. Some common soft scale include oystershell, soft brown scale, magnolia scale, and cottony cushion scale. Both armored scale and soft scale insects live their adult lives beneath a thick coating composed of waxes and their shed exoskeletons. This coating protects the insect from parasitoids, predators, and pesticides. All scale insects go through a crawler stage, the most mobile and vulnerable phase of their life cycle. After hatching, crawlers emerge as tiny, active nymphs that move across plant surfaces to find feeding sites. This is the best time to target scale with insecticides or other control measures. Once they settle and begin feeding, they will develop protective waxy coverings. To combat scale, apply pesticides when newly hatched nymphs are on the move. In hot summer climates, species like false oleander scale (left) will produce at least three overlapping generations of crawlers per year. Sooty mold growing on the honeydew excreted by soft scale (right) may be the first noticeable sign of an infestation.  False oleander scale Sooty mold Scale Management Tips Target crawlers. Apply horticultural oil after nymphs hatch and before they form their wax armor. If overlapping generations emerge during the season, repeated treatments will be necessary. Where permissible, carefully apply a systemic pesticide. Neonicotinoids are controversial but, when used appropriately, are less damaging than many other pesticides (including some organic ones). Find a product containing imidacloprid that is designed for use by homeowners, like BioAdvanced Tree & Shrub Concentrate or Bonide Annual Tree & Shrub Insect Control with Systemaxx. As always, read and follow the label meticulously to protect people, pets, and pollinators. Contact a professional applicator. In areas of the country where neonicotinoids are banned, a professional pesticide applicator has access to other products that are free of neonicotinoids and can successfully manage scale. Use scrape tests to monitor progress. Confirm that your control method is working by scraping the scales’ shells; dead scales will flake off easily.   Janna Beckerman, PhD, is a professor emerita at Purdue University and the ornamentals technical manager for Envu Environmental Science. Fine Gardening Recommended Products Corona High Performance Orchard Loppers Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Unique design greatly reduces the cutting force. Modest tool weight is maintained due to the high strength elliptical aluminum handles. Cutting blade is fully heat treated forged steel and is easy to sharpen. Hooked design features a deep sap groove which keeps the blade contact area clear. Large diameter bumpers help to reduce elbow fatigue. Fiskars Garden Tool Caddy with Removable Small Tool Storage for Indoor and Outdoor Gardening Use, Made with Recycled Plastic Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. Fiskars Gardening Tool Caddy stores tools and supplies for easy access and transportation from indoors to out. Body is made of durable, lightweight, resin with 20% post-consumer recycled plastic. Spacious toolbox includes a removable bin with holes for wall mounting and is the perfect organizer for snips, pruners, and more. Handle locks in place for one-handed carrying, or use side handles for two-handed carrying. Lifetime Warranty. Worx WG323 20V Power Share 10" Cordless Pole/Chain Saw with Auto-Tension (Battery & Charger Included) Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs. [12’ EXTRA REACH] It takes just a few minutes and no tools to attach the pole. And with a reach of up to 12’ and only 10 lbs., you’ll be able to get to branches and limbs before they become a problem. Please refuel before use, but oil is sold separately. [FAST, CLEAN CUTS] This cordless 20V PowerShare chain saw is as fast and powerful as anything in its class. And with no gas, and no cord, there’s much less muss and fuss. [SAME BATTERY, EXPANDABLE POWER] The same battery powers over 75plus 20V, 40V, and 80V lifestyle, garden, and power tools in the Power Share family. [AUTO-CHAIN TENSION] The automatic, tool-free chain tension system ensures you’ll always have the correct tension for the job at hand. [AUTO-CHAIN LUBRICATION] The automatic chain lubrication system not only makes for smoother, more efficient cuts, but it extends the life of the tool. And the oil level indicator lets you know exactly where you stand. [COMPACT, LIGHTWEIGHT] The saw itself weighs only 10 lbs. You’ll work longer, with less strain on your hands, arms, back, and legs. [PLENTY OF JUICE] These are the same batteries we use on our Jawsaw and in our lawnmowers. They’re powerful enough for those, and powerful enough for a chainsaw. Source link